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KTM 1290 - REAR BRAKE PAD CHANGE + CALLIPER CLEAN - WITHOUT REMOVING REAR WHEEL.
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- čas přidán 16. 08. 2019
- In this video I show how to remove the rear brake calliper to change the brake pads, without removing the rear wheel as some may not have the equipment to remove the wheel. There is one slightly tricky part where Ideally you need a good G-Clamp or simply get another pair of hands to help. This is the first time i replaced the rear pads on the Surperduke, I learn as I go and get a little better each time. The pads had been done once at 6,500 miles ( I forgot about that change) and were done again at 12,350 miles (19,875km) before needing changing for the second time. So I'm getting around 6,000 miles a set. I Hope this helps, if so feel free to like, comment or subscribe. Cheers O:)
Fantastic video. I'm planning on replacing all pads over winter.
Thanks, I appreciate the feedback. I'm doing my front ones in a couple of months too. Easier job i think, i'll find out. 😀
❤
Cheers for sharing the vid. Planning on doing mine.
Happy to help. Have fun. 👍🏼
Nice one Kev, excellent vid. :)
Thank You.
I found a Phillips screwdriver and a wooden dowel work well four pin alignment and spring compression would also recommend protecting wheel and chain guard
Good advice, masking tape could protect the rear wheel and chain guard. This was the 2nd change but my first attempt at the replacing the rear pads. I’d probably remove the rear wheel next time for easier access, but i wanted to try doing with it in place for those that haven’t the tools to remove the big 60mm nut.
Awesome video!!
Thank You😎
Ah cool I want to put a bit of copper grease on the back of my pads. They’re so noisey sometimes. But wasn’t sure if I could get it off with the rear wheel still on.
I really don’t fancy taking the wheel off.
I just got my bike the other week, the rear brakes don't half screech 😳
did you know never use your torque wrench to loosen . the reason it runs in the other direction is for left hand thread bolts nuts.
Never heard that before. Ever. - So googled it, and your right👍, there does seem to be conjecture. But i like to see if the shop has torqued them up correctly. 😇
@@KevKam loosening you will get an incorrect reading because the bolt can become somewhat seized.. i been a wrench forever ... love your vids ... Michigan US
@@DEllis24RIP All learning for me, cheers.👍
Thanks for sharing that . I’ve got that job to do
Just thought would it be easier to knock the pin out while the brake is still fixed to the bike as support?
Thanks. Yes, cant remember, why i didnt do that.
In place would certainly make it easier to replace the pads and spring clip, but only if your able to remove the rear wheel to get at it, not everyone can. Ill probably remove the wheel next time.👍
@@KevKam yea I’ve not attempted removing the rear wheel yet . Got socket for it but will probably need long pole .
What do you think of the new rear pads compared to the standard pads ?
They feel fine, just like the old ones they stop well 😀
I find rear brakes need to be 'abused' a little at first to bed them in so they work well.
Is the rear brake on the 1290 just ridiculously bad? There is no way my 05 sv650's brake should feel 10x better, right? The 1290's barely feels like it is stopping me. I have to stomp to the point I'm worried about the brake lever before it locks up and it still hardly feels like it is doing anything.
I would say it’s average, comparing it to all the bikes I’ve owned, and i find new rear brake pads need abusing to bed them in. The Sv will be lighter in weight (I’m assuming) but doesn’t come with the SD’s Brembo’s, but shouldn’t feel 10x better than the Duke.
I use thé rear 30~40% of the time, especially in wet and with a pillion.
I agree. I’ve had two different KTM 1290 Superduke R. And the rear brake needs bleeding like 1-2 times per season. There seems to be air sneaking in to the brake fluid system. I’ve not experienced this rear brake problem on any other bike I’ve owned.
I'm getting a longer swingarm and need a longer line _So there is only one line to the caliper I see -what are the other lines back there ?
Longer swinging arm!! 😮Only other line I can see is to the rotor which I'm assuming is for the speedo and traction control information.
@@KevKam Thanks someone on a forum said it as the ABS sensor Maybe a copper wire {it must be extended.
Hi, good video. Could you tell me where you bought the brake pads? Thanks
Hi - ThankYou :)
The pads came from ebay - Link: www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Brembo-Ceramic-Rear-Brake-Pads-For-KTM-2017-1290-Super-Duke-GT/361912471619?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649
@@KevKam thanks✌
Would it have been worth the time to remove the rear wheel to allow easier access to the caliper, especially reinstalling it?
Good question, i did consider it but chose not to, laziness maybe. I think removing the plastic chain-guard/hugger would be a simple and effective way to improve accessibility, i think it's only 3 bolts. All learning.
Extremely easy to replace by simply removing the screw that attaches chain guard to swing arm. No problems getting it on and off.
Good video. Would it have been easier to remove the rear wheel? I want to do this myself as my rear brake is squeeking but that spring tension is concerning me putting it back.
Thanks. In hindsight, probably Yes. I think I just wanted to see how it went with the wheel in place, it was my first time on this machine. The spring is strong, so tricky for 1 man to refit but having help would make it fairly simple. I would do it again myself. Have fun. 👍🏼
Sporty1290GT By the way, how many miles on your GT before your pads needed changing?
@@devonbiker The change was at 12,350 miles and the first change. Should have put the mileage info in the vid. Ill write it in the info description while I remember. 👍🏼
@@KevKam I’m back. Since last posts I had KTM investigate rear brake squeak. They told me they took it apart and cleaned it all up. It lasted for a number of miles then returned. If I clean the rear disc I get a similar result. I guess when the cleaner burns off the squeak returns. I’m wondering if I should just change the pads? The bikes probably in the 8000 mile range by now.
Questions...
1. What pads did you buy?
2. What size G clamp would I need to compress that spring? I’m guessing a 4” or a 6”?
Thanks again.
@@devonbiker Hi again. Shame the shop couldn't help you'd think they would have had the skills to resolve the issue, being professional etc.
at 0:16 I have the pic of the pads i used, (I couldn't find my receipt) so zoomed in to reveal the make is Brembo (which would be consistent with my usual choices) and they are carbon ceramic, whatever good that will do, 😊.
The G clamp I used has an internal clearance of 4" so good guess. I think it could be done without a G clamp if you had another pair of hands. You will also see at 5:31 I had to use a small socket and adhesive pad to make a smaller contact point where I needed the pressure applied.
Hope that helps.
Nice video. How many miles did you get out of your pads?
Thanks.
Just over 12, 000 for the rear, but im soon about to replace the front pads for the 2nd time. It's a much easier job i think., but i probably shouldn't say that.
@@KevKam Jeez, I have got 12000km and did not check them yet. Doing that tomorrow!
@@umbroraban1075 Yes, i forget too, shop told me they were close. I just looked and 12000 miles = 19000km but best to have a look :D
hello,, I only took the motorcycle 4000 km from the KTM service because under warranty ,, I noticed a noise at the rear wheel and I saw that the disc was scratched,,, incredible that at only 4000 km the rear pads are at zero .. ..obviously the KTM does not give me anything under warranty
Hi, that’s not many km, I did my first change at 6500miles which is 10,460km. Yes, the dealer will say it’s not covered. They aren’t helpful with some things.
I hope it's not another problem that made the brake pads wear out faster, because I've seen a similar problem..