A couple of things I was taught in Carrier school was always use the smallest amount of heat to get the silver to flow on the TXV, wrap the valve, Do it quick in and out, and always bright shine the suction line under the TXV sensing bulb for a good conduction of heat, The small line is called a quench line just encase the TXV fails closed it allows a small amount of refrigerant to flow back to the compressor to keep it from burning up. 34 years commercial and transportation refrigeration mechanic
You young guys pay attention to what Ted did, I once broke the equalizer tube off, had to drill and new hole. That was not fun. Also, when going to add gas, when I was in Syracuse, Carrier said to let it run for 15 minutes before adjusting the charge. I am retired and don't envy you guys for some of the junk that you have to work on these days. Ya all be safe out there.
One thing I always loved about Lennox systems. The TXV has 3 screw on connections. No brazing involved. Disregarding refrigerant management and pulling a vacuum, the actual replacement took 10 minutes, if that. SO much easier.
Gotta love InsaneClownPosse . Worked a few 20 ton ICP Rooftops-before 5 years most need a CondFan motor ot wiring burned at contactor dead inducer motors.. Replaced many Lennox/ICP/Trane TXV/TEVs. Usually added or replaced liquid drier as well dang Danfoss ! Boys and girls did this stuff for 25yrs(30%industrialHVAC 80%Commercial Industrial Refrigeration) I forgot how cramped residential space were! Boys and girls LISTEN TO THIS MAN ! He's 100% correct.HVAC Ain't instantaneous results. Run them bad boys for 15 20 mins then finish diagnosis! I Refrigeration some adjustments/repairs may need a visit tomorrow once it's all back to steady state. This guys the real deal ! I'd call him !
Another easy way to replace the equalizer tube is to score it with a knife and snap it apart. Then take a 1/8 or 1/4 piece of tubing to make a coupling and braze both ends. That way you don't have to worry about solder getting into the line or plugging up the tube.
Hey Ted, great video. I quit using cork tape on heat pump applications a few years ago, because I would come back later and find it had melted off when it went into heating mode! Started using the foam tape-doesn't stick as well, but like you, I put zip ties on anyway.
I'm not terribly experienced in residential HVAC, but in my limited experience, the heat pumps tend to take a lot of time to stabilize as demonstrated in this video! Being in a hurry will getcha into trouble sometimes! ;) Good video!
Had a a/c guy out last year had a unit in his van that had a flex tubes on it to put into the window and he plugged it into the condenser outlet outside and cooled the house down while he was fixing our a/c . Thought that was a great idea keep your customer cool while fixing their unit .
Thanks for the clip Ted. I use hose clamps and scrap those copper clamps and then cork tape. I have a trick for you on how to check a txv in under 60 seconds. I'm sure most people don't know. Let me know if you want me to explain it. Thanks again.
It is easier to braze the 3/8 liquid line feeding the TXV outside the plenum and then position it inside and continue connecting the rest of the piping. lol
Sensiing bulb is installed upside-down . The little line should be on the bottom while the long tube traveling back to the actual txv is on top. Other then your choice of torche nice video
Howdy Ted! Great video! I've had better luck combing flat spots out with a new SS wire brush, (gotta be stainless with straight bristles). Not the little tooth brush type. The biguns. Sure beats trying to straighten them with a knife blade or a comb. Looking forward to new vids. Keep up the good work man. Sure learned a lot!
i had a very similar problem, with the SAME unit. paused on the data plate. worse suction pressures. it boiled down to the TXV. I ordered a replacement via Supplyhouse, and after install, it did the same damn thing... I had to turn that job over to the Carrier rep. Lost about 600 bucks... and that was by far the dirtiest drain I've ever seen!
My customer has exact the same downflow Carrier .Supply box has full.kd water spread to Main flex duct which couldn't hold full of water .It affected ceiling. It was inside attic i offered to relocate horizontally install .Cause downflow unit creates a lot condensation
If you wanna play pussy footing, sure. TXVs dont go bad as many people think they do. Pull a good vacuum, and make sure you braze with nitrogen. Easy money, easy diagnostics. If you wanna be cheap, then spend extra time tossing in a piston
@@FrostBlueFire You remember that massive failures we had just a few years ago the seals were mucking up because a bad reaction to the refrigerant oils. Changed 40 plus out that year
I like your approach to charging. Especially with the new refrigerants as they are all blends and the chemical make up of them sometimes makes them separate. Patience is a virtual.
Ruud and Rheem have the best clamp for the bulb they use to send copper band iron but now they got these little clamps with threaded hole for the screw and u just tighten the one screw
Originally, they built the ac draining system unit inside the house was not working perfectly because there were two 90 degree angle which caused clogging easily. Four years ago, after I cleaned up and unclogged three times the draining line, it was still clogged at that time. So, I had to cut-off one 90 degree angle tubing and I made it work since then.
You should be using Stay Brite 8 on that TXV. I quit brazing new copper years ago. No nitrogen, no scale and no risk of component damage, and no leaks.
Wow this one seems kinda weird bc at first subcooling and superheat indicated low freon, a little bit later indicated bad txv I never seen that happen before within the same service call, I guess things you don’t know about do happen. Also for this unit very easy txv install even a rookie can do this with eyes closed! Here in Texas units in attics and very tough to get to but that is why we charge 800 plus to replace txv in attics
i got a 4ton for 1300sqft thats 350ft per ton in southern Nevada easy 115 degree days, i aim to get 1600cfm and my filter is 20x20x1 side by side for a total of 20x40 filter return. i currently use the honeywell HD merv 11 filters but i think ill start using the 3m 1200 merv 11 because of the more surface area on the filter to help decrease static pressure if that doesnt help ill try to use 4in filter
Hey Mr Ted I watch a ton of your videos, I think you do great work and always try and do what’s best for the Customer ( I try and do the same) anyway a bit of advice, maybe next time bring the bulb out of the cabinet through the panel with the suction line, it allows you to mount easier and you can also place the bulb on the position of the pipe that the manufacturer recommends ( that seems to change every time I read the literature) then I just insulate with armaflex
Mike, I think that by putting it in the factory cavity, he did put the bulb in the manufacturer recommended position. All of the carriers seem to have that depression. The bulb is also strapped to the line so it’s touching when when you heat the pipe to install. Weird how it fails.
Dust mixing with water turning into mud. From unfiltered air going through the system. That expansion valve looks very much like ones I've changed out in cars. Except without that little tube that solders in. Don't you have to dump all the refrigerant to do that job? If so I guess you didn't film it. That A coil is starting to look a bit iffy. Nice job. What is it that wears out in an expansion valve?
Hey Ted this is pretty important question when you brazed that txv in did you use nitrogen and do you have to wrap that txv with a wet rag or do you just get away without doing that on those jobs? I’m not being funny I’m really asking you.
Ted you are from a place where life is a little slower and people take time to smell the Rose's so to speak, sit on the front porch an enjoy life a little. SO TED ALWAYS BE YOU AND YOU WILL NEVER GO WRONG.!!!
Brazing that capillary is a dumb design. You should've used oxy-acetylene not air-acetylene for this type of work and you should've run nitrogen. They sell also combs for straightening fins you know. Glad you figured out how to speed your vids. I use them for meditation sometimes though
Where did all the mud come from? Look no further than the interior of the cabinet. It is filthy and that debris eventually works its way through the condenser fins, down the drain pan and lodges in the condensate drain.
I see they make a fin comb for straightening those fins out . I don't think they would do any damage if done carefully. You don't use those? Thanks for the Great Vids. :)
So simptoms: Hi Su cool Hi Superheat Lo suction press Normal/hi Head For a bad txv , will this be the ONLY set of simptoms , or can you have another combination set of simptoms ?
Ted, have you tried Measure Quick yet?? I have the Fieldpiece probes that I use Measure Quick on and I really do like it. Just wondering, nice video and nice repair sir. FMS Heating and Air from NC
shoulda offered to pull it out and clean that shit since you were already in there. maybe see if you could straighten some of them fins if they agreed to clean.
@ Anti DIY HVAC. Hey Ted My Ac unit cools my house ok but my vents seem to not be blowing that well. The air is cool and it works well but what seems like low air flow. Your professional opinion what would you say it is?
I have one of these and water is leaking from the bottom of the unit. I cleaned out the condensate pipe but it's still leaking. What are your thoughts?
What does a job like this cost a customer? Seems like it requires more skill and danger potential to the technician. Anyone know an average rate for a job like this in a place like southern california?
I'm just curious and used to work in a factory that manufactured refrigeration units - we would use a fin comb to correct slight damage on a new coil. Could it be that the fins can't be realigned due to the age of the aluminum? I was hoping to see some air flow created at those flat spots.
A couple of things I was taught in Carrier school was always use the smallest amount of heat to get the silver to flow on the TXV, wrap the valve, Do it quick in and out, and always bright shine the suction line under the TXV sensing bulb for a good conduction of heat, The small line is called a quench line just encase the TXV fails closed it allows a small amount of refrigerant to flow back to the compressor to keep it from burning up. 34 years commercial and transportation refrigeration mechanic
Actually, in this application it's an external equalizer.
You young guys pay attention to what Ted did, I once broke the equalizer tube off, had to drill and new hole. That was not fun. Also, when going to add gas, when I was in Syracuse, Carrier said to let it run for 15 minutes before adjusting the charge. I am retired and don't envy you guys for some of the junk that you have to work on these days. Ya all be safe out there.
One thing I always loved about Lennox systems. The TXV has 3 screw on connections. No brazing involved. Disregarding refrigerant management and pulling a vacuum, the actual replacement took 10 minutes, if that. SO much easier.
Gotta love InsaneClownPosse .
Worked a few 20 ton ICP Rooftops-before 5 years most need a CondFan motor ot wiring burned at contactor dead inducer motors..
Replaced many Lennox/ICP/Trane TXV/TEVs.
Usually added or replaced liquid drier as well dang Danfoss !
Boys and girls did this stuff for 25yrs(30%industrialHVAC 80%Commercial Industrial Refrigeration) I forgot how cramped residential space were!
Boys and girls LISTEN TO THIS MAN ! He's 100% correct.HVAC Ain't instantaneous results.
Run them bad boys for 15 20 mins then finish diagnosis! I Refrigeration some adjustments/repairs may need a visit tomorrow once it's all back to steady state.
This guys the real deal !
I'd call him !
Another easy way to replace the equalizer tube is to score it with a knife and snap it apart. Then take a 1/8 or 1/4 piece of tubing to make a coupling and braze both ends. That way you don't have to worry about solder getting into the line or plugging up the tube.
Hey Ted, great video. I quit using cork tape on heat pump applications a few years ago, because I would come back later and find it had melted off when it went into heating mode! Started using the foam tape-doesn't stick as well, but like you, I put zip ties on anyway.
I'm not terribly experienced in residential HVAC, but in my limited experience, the heat pumps tend to take a lot of time to stabilize as demonstrated in this video! Being in a hurry will getcha into trouble sometimes! ;) Good video!
Had a a/c guy out last year had a unit in his van that had a flex tubes on it to put into the window and he plugged it into the condenser outlet outside and cooled the house down while he was fixing our a/c . Thought that was a great idea keep your customer cool while fixing their unit .
Nice a new video from the best guy Ted you rock.
Thanks for the clip Ted. I use hose clamps and scrap those copper clamps and then cork tape. I have a trick for you on how to check a txv in under 60 seconds. I'm sure most people don't know. Let me know if you want me to explain it. Thanks again.
What is the trick?
High to normal subcooling and high superheat?
Great video and commentary. You are a real professional.
It is easier to braze the 3/8 liquid line feeding the TXV outside the plenum and then position it inside and continue connecting the rest of the piping. lol
I've once had the opening on the feed tube closed over with solder. I make my own new hole in the line now!
That factory filter door was upside down. Nicely done repair.
Great to see the nuances along the way!
TNX for the ride along great video much appreciated👍
I always angle the cap tube with the direction of the flow, it helps prevent and fouling of the port into the valve.
Very good work and patience 👍
Excellent video,thank you for sharing your knowledge!!
Sensiing bulb is installed upside-down . The little line should be on the bottom while the long tube traveling back to the actual txv is on top. Other then your choice of torche nice video
I wanted to see if you could straighten the fins
Enjoying your post just happened to find you keep up the good work 😉😉☺️
I’m new to hvac and I’m so glad a pro calls it welding sometimes too lol
YES!!!! When I saw that drain trap I was like....."Come on Ted, stick your finger in it!" And then you did 😄👌
LoL
😆 😅 😂 🤣😆 😅 😂 🤣
Howdy Ted! Great video! I've had better luck combing flat spots out with a new SS wire brush, (gotta be stainless with straight bristles). Not the little tooth brush type. The biguns. Sure beats trying to straighten them with a knife blade or a comb. Looking forward to new vids. Keep up the good work man. Sure learned a lot!
Hi Ted! Your videos are great! Looking forward to the next new shop update ! 😊👍
Excellent work. Appreciate this video and the troubleshooting steps.
This was very help I am working on a unit the pressures are 400 on my high side and my suction side is 100 .
Dirty condenser coil
Maybe
Check superheat and subcooling
i had a very similar problem, with the SAME unit. paused on the data plate. worse suction pressures. it boiled down to the TXV. I ordered a replacement via Supplyhouse, and after install, it did the same damn thing... I had to turn that job over to the Carrier rep. Lost about 600 bucks... and that was by far the dirtiest drain I've ever seen!
My customer has exact the same downflow Carrier .Supply box has full.kd water spread to Main flex duct which couldn't hold full of water .It affected ceiling. It was inside attic i offered to relocate horizontally install .Cause downflow unit creates a lot condensation
Long story short avoid putting in txv , nice vid mate.
If you wanna play pussy footing, sure. TXVs dont go bad as many people think they do. Pull a good vacuum, and make sure you braze with nitrogen. Easy money, easy diagnostics. If you wanna be cheap, then spend extra time tossing in a piston
@@FrostBlueFire You remember that massive failures we had just a few years ago the seals were mucking up because a bad reaction to the refrigerant oils. Changed 40 plus out that year
Love the tubotorch!
I like your approach to charging. Especially with the new refrigerants as they are all blends and the chemical make up of them sometimes makes them separate. Patience is a virtual.
Carrier really makes great equipment
Every particle that bypassed the filter is in the PVC
Ruud and Rheem have the best clamp for the bulb they use to send copper band iron but now they got these little clamps with threaded hole for the screw and u just tighten the one screw
If the TXV failed, wouldn’t you want to flow N2 when un-brazing and brazing to prevent oxides from gunking up the new TXV?
I love the alvin and the chipmunks speed ups
Nice doing a txv on Monday . I use stay bright8 on the valve . I can’t see cooking a valve like a txv
Nice!!! I had the same problem. I changed out the TXV.
I use the existing pressure tube swedged to weld over the new one. No pans burnt. No weld drip into the suction. And no waiting for the bulb install.
Great video Cowboy Ted !
They need to do more of those
Originally, they built the ac draining system unit inside the house was not working perfectly because there were two 90 degree angle which caused clogging easily. Four years ago, after I cleaned up and unclogged three times the draining line, it was still clogged at that time. So, I had to cut-off one 90 degree angle tubing and I made it work since then.
You should be using Stay Brite 8 on that TXV. I quit brazing new copper years ago. No nitrogen, no scale and no risk of component damage, and no leaks.
Hey Hoss the turtle won the race just saying I’m on board with you on charging
Wow this one seems kinda weird bc at first subcooling and superheat indicated low freon, a little bit later indicated bad txv I never seen that happen before within the same service call, I guess things you don’t know about do happen. Also for this unit very easy txv install even a rookie can do this with eyes closed! Here in Texas units in attics and very tough to get to but that is why we charge 800 plus to replace txv in attics
Great video. Going to give Chris at HVACR videos some competition on trainer content if you keep this up.
I would have just changed the coil. If it’s not leaking, it will be soon enough.
same, not worth the headaches that follows
Thank you sir for sharing your videos.....what kind of torch are you using ? Acetylene/oxigen or oxigen only?
i got a 4ton for 1300sqft thats 350ft per ton in southern Nevada easy 115 degree days, i aim to get 1600cfm and my filter is 20x20x1 side by side for a total of 20x40 filter return. i currently use the honeywell HD merv 11 filters but i think ill start using the 3m 1200 merv 11 because of the more surface area on the filter to help decrease static pressure if that doesnt help ill try to use 4in filter
Thank you, I am ready to work for you.
Hey Mr Ted I watch a ton of your videos, I think you do great work and always try and do what’s best for the Customer ( I try and do the same) anyway a bit of advice, maybe next time bring the bulb out of the cabinet through the panel with the suction line, it allows you to mount easier and you can also place the bulb on the position of the pipe that the manufacturer recommends ( that seems to change every time I read the literature) then I just insulate with armaflex
My TXV is outside of my coil cabinet.
Mike, I think that by putting it in the factory cavity, he did put the bulb in the manufacturer recommended position. All of the carriers seem to have that depression. The bulb is also strapped to the line so it’s touching when when you heat the pipe to install. Weird how it fails.
Haha, Ted has learned how to fast forward through parts of his video.
XD
I'm going to call it Jimmy Wiggler from now on. Thanks.
Well done, Ted!!! God bless; Jesus loves you!!!
Mud collects in the drain pipe because they do not use a filter or the filter is not good
Couldnt you just use stainless zip ties for the bulb , Ted? They are nice. Or all stainless hose clamps?
Just went through the same exact thing on the same exact unit about a month ago
Oh no. The ubiquitous Turbo Torch makes the scene.
Dust mixing with water turning into mud. From unfiltered air going through the system. That expansion valve looks very much like ones I've changed out in cars. Except without that little tube that solders in. Don't you have to dump all the refrigerant to do that job? If so I guess you didn't film it. That A coil is starting to look a bit iffy. Nice job. What is it that wears out in an expansion valve?
Great point!
Are you running nitrogen thru when unbrazing?
She's a Crusty One Mr Grinch.
Hey Ted this is pretty important question when you brazed that txv in did you use nitrogen and do you have to wrap that txv with a wet rag or do you just get away without doing that on those jobs? I’m not being funny I’m really asking you.
Do you not purge your linesets with nitrogen when soldering?
Hi Ted, do you braze with oxy and acetylene or just acetylene?Thanks
Ted, It's dust from a crappy fitting air filter.
I knew you were the voice actor for Alvin. HVAC is just a pastime for you Ted.
Ted you are from a place where life is a little slower and people take time to smell the Rose's so to speak, sit on the front porch an enjoy life a little. SO TED ALWAYS BE YOU AND YOU WILL NEVER GO WRONG.!!!
happy 4th cowboy
Why unsweat the equalizer tube ? I always carry 1/8" couplers..Its alot easier.
Ted for President!!!
Brazing that capillary is a dumb design. You should've used oxy-acetylene not air-acetylene for this type of work and you should've run nitrogen. They sell also combs for straightening fins you know. Glad you figured out how to speed your vids. I use them for meditation sometimes though
Where did all the mud come from? Look no further than the interior of the cabinet. It is filthy and that debris eventually works its way through the condenser fins, down the drain pan and lodges in the condensate drain.
I see they make a fin comb for straightening those fins out . I don't think they would do any damage if done carefully. You don't use those? Thanks for the Great Vids. :)
What a poor difficult design to work on and fix.. Ted you make it look somewhat easy..
So simptoms:
Hi Su cool
Hi Superheat
Lo suction press
Normal/hi Head
For a bad txv , will this be the ONLY set of simptoms , or can you have another combination set of simptoms ?
Parts runner would be nice
good job 👍👍👍👍
A heads up on the vacuum running would be appreciated. Thxs for the vids!
that drain needed a good jetting i think. 😁
I would’ve replaced the dryer I know you’re pumped down in the dryer probably is inside the equipment .
Can a hose clamps works?
Ted, have you tried Measure Quick yet?? I have the Fieldpiece probes that I use Measure Quick on and I really do like it.
Just wondering, nice video and nice repair sir.
FMS Heating and Air from NC
shoulda offered to pull it out and clean that shit since you were already in there. maybe see if you could straighten some of them fins if they agreed to clean.
So could sucking up that much dust through the crappy filters creat that much debris (mud) in the drain??
@ Anti DIY HVAC. Hey Ted My Ac unit cools my house ok but my vents seem to not be blowing that well. The air is cool and it works well but what seems like low air flow. Your professional opinion what would you say it is?
Did you fix the smashed evaporator? Shouldn’t it have a trap for the drain?
A lot of The New Guys would have probably wanted to Sell a New System instead of repairing it.
Where can I get that battery washer that's a very nice one
I have one of these and water is leaking from the bottom of the unit. I cleaned out the condensate pipe but it's still leaking. What are your thoughts?
no filter change till you got there
What does a job like this cost a customer? Seems like it requires more skill and danger potential to the technician. Anyone know an average rate for a job like this in a place like southern california?
Next Level
What is the actual name for what you call tar tape? I've been seeing it lately in the field in my area. I guess everyone else has left duct tape.
I've never used that wet goop heat sink. Just wet rag strips. How do you like it? Anybody?
Just curious: what would the cost be (parts & labor), for replacing that semi-flattened coil?
1500-2k with reputable company with a decent overhead
As stated above if it is a r22 system, it will cost you more though.
I'm just curious and used to work in a factory that manufactured refrigeration units - we would use a fin comb to correct slight damage on a new coil. Could it be that the fins can't be realigned due to the age of the aluminum? I was hoping to see some air flow created at those flat spots.
Can you clean the grill without remove the drain lines?
Whats the going rate for a txv change-out?
$60+ hour
And try and clean up the copper of the bulb and the tube it's going on.
That is probably why a lot of guys over charge them.
What size tips u use with your b tank?