Great video and great wheels. Got me thinking about making some myself. A tip for you: when you cut your line to length, wet the last 2" in thin cyano glue. This gives you a needle of sorts to help steer into the holes and has the added benefit of preventing the line from fraying. Once again, great wheels. they look awesome Cheers
I started flying RC when I was 10 years old, I'm 62 now. I've always admired the heck out of you guys that build scale stuff. This is absolutely incredible. Thank you for posting!
Same here. I'm 56. Best hobby i've ever had. Once that first plane comes back home undamaged after a day of flying... you have arrived...!!! For me, nothing better.
Excellent video, and nice results! I would make one small change to the procedure and eliminate the crimps altogether. You can achieve the same results using CA with the end flat against the inside of the rim, same when it is done, just pull the line tight and add the CA.
Just finished threading one of these rims. I found a needle a lot easier. I used tweezers and thin nosed pliers to assist moving the needle around. Just got to spray it up and glue it together. Great looking wheel. It will be interesting to see how it stands up to use at the flying field.
Well this is like super cool stuff here, I no longer fly RC but have been making Can Craft aircraft out of coke and beer cans and look the old style wheels. Now only if I can find something like this for my Fokker Dr1 code cola plane
this was great video mister i enjoy allot to watch this. i think l will try to meke one of those for nuieport 17 thanks for sharing this, grettings from norway
I have tried lacing this wheel three times now and I get half way only to realize it's still wrong. It's really hard to see what you're doing in the video. I think I just realized why; when you lace your first hole and say it's 90degrees off, it's not. 90 degrees would mean going from the right side of one post to the hole on the right side of the next, but it looks like you lace to the hole to the left side of the next post. Can you verify this?
Okay, I have successfully laced one wheel now. I have learned the following things: -The first hole you go through after wrapping around the hub will have 6 empty holes between it and the hole you started in. -On each pass you inverse the direction you wrap around the hub (counter clockwise, then clockwise) so that the thread is always wrapping around the far side of the hub, but you always work your way around the rim counter-clockwise.
You can go 90 degrees to the left or the right, it does not matter, What matters is that you stick with the pattern all the way around. It IS a tricky bit but I think once you get one done it will click in your brain.
Ugh, if you've ever uploaded something to Thingiverse you know that the website is a tad glitchy. I've tried to re-upload the hub but it is currently only showing up for me when I go to the "Edit Thing" page. I'll continue to monitor this and if it's still a problem I will reach out to the site administrators.
Hello my friend... what's the AUW of the model you are intended to put this wheel on!? I ask because i printed a lot of wheels including tires for my models (mostly gassers at the 7kg range)... My conclusions are: 1 - Forget about PLA, you must use ABS 2 - TPU tires only if you have a grass runway, a pavement runway will waste your wheels real quickly 3 - The week point of the wheels is the rim. They cannot take side loads and will brake unless you make them really thick, but that's not desirable for scale reasons
Hi! Yeah the model I'm planning to use is 54 ounces all up. It's not a terribly heavy model which is great for testing this design. I still have yet to get some weather good enough to try them out. Yes, I agree that materials will make a difference for certain. If this is your first time to my channel then welcome and I hope you see that I only ever use PLA for prototyping. 98% of my final functional pieces are ABS with the rest being PETG. I think your suggestion about TPU on a paved runway is valid only to an extent. I've successfully use foam wheels on a paved runway without excessive wear. Perhaps if you are running excessive toe-in then yes there'd likely be more wear. As it is, I do fly off a grass field and it's old farmland with ruts. Most retracts do not hold up well at my field so it is a great testing place for these wheels.
@@JoshuaOrchard 54 ounces is 1.5kg+-... Reallyy light.. youll have no problems... The problems i previously listed applies only to my case.. heavy gasser models.. 6 to 7 kg auw.. Youll have no problems with the tpu tire on the wight range your model is in..
Great video and great wheels. Got me thinking about making some myself.
A tip for you: when you cut your line to length, wet the last 2" in thin cyano glue. This gives you a needle of sorts to help steer into the holes and has the added benefit of preventing the line from fraying.
Once again, great wheels. they look awesome
Cheers
INGENIUS idea! Be sure to see the follow-up on this... the glue on the hub behind the tire is a MUST for the threads.
I started flying RC when I was 10 years old, I'm 62 now. I've always admired the heck out of you guys that build scale stuff. This is absolutely incredible. Thank you for posting!
Same here. I'm 56. Best hobby i've ever had. Once that first plane comes back home undamaged after a day of flying... you have arrived...!!! For me, nothing better.
Great tutorial, Josh. You're a true champion of demystifying the complexities inherent to the hobby.
Excellent video, and nice results! I would make one small change to the procedure and eliminate the crimps altogether. You can achieve the same results using CA with the end flat against the inside of the rim, same when it is done, just pull the line tight and add the CA.
Sure! That could work too!
Your attention to detail is awesome love the passion for tiny bits that make it great
Just finished threading one of these rims. I found a needle a lot easier. I used tweezers and thin nosed pliers to assist moving the needle around. Just got to spray it up and glue it together. Great looking wheel. It will be interesting to see how it stands up to use at the flying field.
AWESOME!!! I'm so glad this worked out for you! I have STILL not been able to find a break in the weather to try them out. It's just the time of year.
Great instructions! Thanks Joshua!
Nice tutorial!, so useful and well presented. thanks a lot!
Well this is like super cool stuff here, I no longer fly RC but have been making Can Craft aircraft out of coke and beer cans and look the old style wheels. Now only if I can find something like this for my Fokker Dr1 code cola plane
this was great video mister i enjoy allot to watch this. i think l will try to meke one of those for nuieport 17
thanks for sharing this, grettings from norway
Hi, super tutorial, Gracias, I from Colombia
Once again- Great stuff
Now I want to build a scale model just to make the wheels. D'Oh!
I have tried lacing this wheel three times now and I get half way only to realize it's still wrong. It's really hard to see what you're doing in the video. I think I just realized why; when you lace your first hole and say it's 90degrees off, it's not. 90 degrees would mean going from the right side of one post to the hole on the right side of the next, but it looks like you lace to the hole to the left side of the next post. Can you verify this?
Okay, I have successfully laced one wheel now. I have learned the following things: -The first hole you go through after wrapping around the hub will have 6 empty holes between it and the hole you started in. -On each pass you inverse the direction you wrap around the hub (counter clockwise, then clockwise) so that the thread is always wrapping around the far side of the hub, but you always work your way around the rim counter-clockwise.
You can go 90 degrees to the left or the right, it does not matter, What matters is that you stick with the pattern all the way around. It IS a tricky bit but I think once you get one done it will click in your brain.
You've got far more patience than I do. IT looks like a real p.i.t.a!
You could make these and sell them. I’d buy them. I don’t have the dexterity to make them but I want them.
Awesome! Can I ask which brand of TPU you used?
It's "overture" from microcenter, I think.
Its a great built josh. I want to make one too but i could not find the stl file for the centre hub on the link.
Ugh, if you've ever uploaded something to Thingiverse you know that the website is a tad glitchy. I've tried to re-upload the hub but it is currently only showing up for me when I go to the "Edit Thing" page. I'll continue to monitor this and if it's still a problem I will reach out to the site administrators.
Just checked again and it looks to be ready to download. Thank you so much for bringing this to my attention!
@@JoshuaOrchard nah its okay. Now i got it . Thank you so much. And thanks for sharing all your builds and tutorials. You’re an inspiration.
Hello my friend... what's the AUW of the model you are intended to put this wheel on!?
I ask because i printed a lot of wheels including tires for my models (mostly gassers at the 7kg range)...
My conclusions are:
1 - Forget about PLA, you must use ABS
2 - TPU tires only if you have a grass runway, a pavement runway will waste your wheels real quickly
3 - The week point of the wheels is the rim. They cannot take side loads and will brake unless you make them really thick, but that's not desirable for scale reasons
Hi! Yeah the model I'm planning to use is 54 ounces all up. It's not a terribly heavy model which is great for testing this design. I still have yet to get some weather good enough to try them out.
Yes, I agree that materials will make a difference for certain. If this is your first time to my channel then welcome and I hope you see that I only ever use PLA for prototyping. 98% of my final functional pieces are ABS with the rest being PETG.
I think your suggestion about TPU on a paved runway is valid only to an extent. I've successfully use foam wheels on a paved runway without excessive wear. Perhaps if you are running excessive toe-in then yes there'd likely be more wear. As it is, I do fly off a grass field and it's old farmland with ruts. Most retracts do not hold up well at my field so it is a great testing place for these wheels.
@@JoshuaOrchard 54 ounces is 1.5kg+-... Reallyy light.. youll have no problems...
The problems i previously listed applies only to my case.. heavy gasser models.. 6 to 7 kg auw..
Youll have no problems with the tpu tire on the wight range your model is in..