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Could this be used instead of glassing and painting? I'm building a Cessna Skymaster, and thinking ahead to the covering, I wanted to paint it rather than use film covering.

This is great Joshua, I’ve never seen Koverall installation demonstrated, and it looks pretty straight forward. It almost appears easier in some respects than the typical shrinking plastic coatings - easier to stretch around corners maybe?

I have recently built this kit and plan to fly it with a Spectrum DX8. Using the V-Tail mix I find the nose gear moves with both elevator and rudder activation. Is there a way to correct this problem. I read some where that a company called Precision Micro Electronics has a V tail mixing circuit board to correct this problem but could not find any info on it. Any help correcting things problem would be appreciated. John

I've found the only solvent that doesn't bother the wife is acetone since it smells like nail polish. :)

does it shrink again with the application of dope?

Did you go with a 15x4? I run a 15x4 or 13x6 MA 2 blade on my ASP91FS 10% nitro. Get a resonable 10KRpm on each. 8500Rpm with a 13x6 3 Blade

Great looking plane. Look forward to her in the air.

Joshua, love what you’re doing with this restoration, and all the others you’ve done. Question on the V-tail servo connection, I see the the orientation of the push rod almost demands the upside down EZ connector , but it makes it impossible to adjust the position of the control rod with the servo arm installed, does it not? Perhaps you’re planning to do all your adjustment at the other end with a threaded clevis?

I can't wait to see this one fly. You may have covered this in a previous video, but is that an O.S. 91 surpass? Also, I like to paint only one tip with a white enamel paint that doubles as my prop balancing bit of weight on the light side blade tip; that way you kill two birds: balance and safety for the lowest added drag and weight. I'll be starting a Telemaster senior build this fall/winter as my first build in ~~ 30 years! I can't wait to get started.

How does the crash durability compare to solid white foam and tape construction?

I love biplanes and all the Curtiss birds are beautiful and yours is one of them. Good luck with the next flight. John from Hayden Idaho

Good luck... She looks and sounds great!

I concur with Jason. You want to fix your Ailerons, you want more up than down.

Nice work sir. Two thoughts. 1. You need longer sticks to hold your tail on starts - video makes it look crazy sketchy. 2. In your discussion about the aileron throw and mechanical differential - I believe you stated that more down than up throw would help with decreasing adverse yaw - I believe that might be backwards... I think the down surface produces more drag than the up surface; hence, more drag = more induced / adverse yaw. No? Either way, nice bird and thanks for sharing!

Good luck on the re-maiden of sorts Josh.

Looks like it's time to mow the lawn.

Beautiful airplane! I really appreciate your videos and have gained allot of knowledge from your efforts. I have a couple questions please, what material did you use for your flying wires? Was that ether that you used to start the engine? Thank you.

Beautiful plane. I wonder if that motor would take a onboard starter. I know they make them for the dle engines.

Hmmm - "Flying work of art" - well said. A very unique and beautifully detailed model. Best of luck as you get ready for some flying.

Rc J22 😮🎉

You could also add a dubro landing gear strap to the pushrod for some tension. On my stand i have a old servo with a servo tester for control. Nice stand. Mike

Fuel leaking out of the front could be a bad bearing. When I ran K&B .61s that was a symptom. You should learn to tune the mix by pinch testing the fuel line. A quick pinch/release of the fuel line at high speed should result in a slight rise in rpm. If it stays the same a slows down, too lean. You can tune the idle mix that way as well, but you need to hold the pinch longer. If it takes too long for a slight rise in RPM, it's too rich, which is usually how they ship. You want the idle to come up after 1-2 seconds of pinching. I think your last run at 12:30 was too lean. As it ran at high speed, the exhaust stream disappeared, and then when you pulled it back to idle, the sudden stop was probably because it got too hot.

Thanks for making this great video!

Just a heads up. Non pumped nitro engines and some gas the carburetor should be at the mid level point of your tank. Check your manual to confirm.other wise your mixture will change as the tank gets towards the bottom.

I really like your engine test stand. I think I'll build one too. Did you consider using a servo for control and either a servo driver or a spare receiver. I have a spare Spektrum receiver that was delegated to TEST service after I accidentally cut off the squib antenna. I'm watching this build with interest as I have an OSMW Kaos in the box. I like your choice of a K&B 60 for it, so apropos. I was thinking the same and I collected a couple in need of work but then I found a NOS Webra 10cc Blackhead, all silver version. I just unboxed a giant scale ARF that's been sitting around since '19 (for reasons...) and while the structure looks pretty good, one look at the hardware and I knew I'd be using that JOSHUA10 discount. Sorry about your loss, I've hit the shop for similar therapy in the past myself.

Good looking stand Joshua.

Nice little airplane! Love the Model Z!

Thanks for adding the bit about the correct way to install the servo brass eyelets!!

I betThe tail servo was backwards to get the correct movement on the V tail. You said there was no mechanical mixer. I bet that's why the previous builder did that

On a plane this size, I highly recommend using the metal retainers on the EZ connectors. Otherwise you may just end up putting the plane through the side of a barn. Ask me how I know...

It’s “Luer Connectors” if anyone is looking for them.

Nice work! Thank you for the tips on connectors.

Two words: Fu taba. No gyro junk. Just fly the plane with your two sticks. That being said, excellent building skills👍

Hi Joshua, did you see in the comments on the previous video: I Have a full cockpit "kit" for this airplane I'd be willing to sell if you're interested. I'm not a scammer but a real life RC Pilot like you. Been flying since 1987.

Looking forward to you Kaos build and covering technique.

I haven't started my Bonanza yet so I can incorporate some of your alterations such the placement on the tail control servos. The idea makes a lot of sense. I will say I will probably build a V36 instead of a V35, I was never a "V" tail fan.

On the servos I will freely admit I have started using all metal geared servos from Amazon too. I'm using MG996R 55g Metal Gear Torque Digital Servos. For smaller aircraft I go with the MG90S 9g Metal Gear Micro. I don't think what brand is important because I think they all come out of the same factory. Are you using the same servos? Side note, the safety officer at my flying field requires locking clevises or a piece of fuel tubing in place. I have always do it that way as cheap insurance. All my hardware is either DuBro or Sullivan.

With the Y-connector on the tail, I bet the previous owner set it up for bank-n-yank with no rudder.

My wife walked in just as you said “slip it in from the rear” broke out laughing & asked me what I was watching. 😂😂

The servo on the tail is in backwards because he used a y connector and could not reverse the servo.

Hello from Sweden. Is the servos not possible to install from the other side? So them not is that close to the wing?😊 So (in the picture) from the bottom up, then they would be lower and also rest on their mounts instead of hanging on them when you turn the plane.

Appreciate your educational skills, and passion for helping us along with your building techniques. Thanks

I will be very interested to see how going straight to butyrate dope over polyester works for you. Everything I've understood over the years is that you need to put a coat of nitrate down first to bond with the polyester then the butyrate. However, is that a feature of the non-tautening butyrate. Has it been chemically modified to make it bond with polyester materials? It will be great to know if true. BTW, I like to use silkspan the solid wood parts. It takes dope well and it sands good.

drama queen

this video really hit home, I have the exact same model and it has never flown. (it also has S148 servos) It is built with the scale cockpit. And has a super Tiger .75 engine. The wings however were damaged during a move and have never been replaced. I also have a companion Cessna with the Saito golden night 100T twin cylinder custom-built electric start and custom built retracts. after flying RC for more than 55 years my airplanes engines and equipment just take up space in my basement including a lumberyard's worth of balsa wood :-)

I'm going to pick up another Byron V Bonanza Thursday

Another great video. I like your resto build logs. I'm now nervous about the servos in my TF Cessna Skylane that I restored recently. They're all S3003's. I've flown it twice, and all is good. But now I'm thinking I should replace the servos. Trouble with that plane is, I'd have to cut away balsa and the cockpit kit to access them, as they're installed before finishing the fuselage. Same with the fuel tank.

Hi just saw your video. I have a TF Bonanza cockpit kit I'd be willing to sell. I also have a partially built F33 conventional tail version of this airplane im likely never going to finish.

Are the control horn screws going through a back plate on the other side of the ailerons? I didn't see that. Also - I just learned "Recently" the correct way to install servo grommets and those brass flanges, I bet others would like to see the correct way to install. You did it correctly, but I didn't hear you talking about it - Just my 2 cents

I'm pretty sure that wing is covered in Ultracote, so you can expect the covering to slowly fall off the plane piece by piece. If it was covered in Monokote it wouldn't be peeling like that.