Installing RADIANT HEAT floors with Warmboard! - Part 2
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- čas přidán 18. 06. 2024
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Join us for the second video of the two video series as we profile WARMBOARD Radiant Floor Heating System. As an Architect, planning is pretty much my life. Warmboard masters the planning concept. From a precise panel layout, a precise tube layout, and to a manifold that is a work of art in progress, this system was installed flawlessly. You need a Great Team - and we have one. I worked extensively with the representatives from Warmboard to plan out the system for our ranch remodel. It is a “Whole House” radiant floor heating system. Our plan then got turned over the Rick, the framing crew, and the plumbing crew and they applied their passion for a job done exceptionally well. Watch the video to see a little planning, a little zone layout, a little panel layout, and a whole lot of common sense and love for what you do, bring the ranch remodel to new heights as it receives a new radiant floor heating system. Quite possibly worth watching twice…..Enjoy the video my friends…….and of course - Long Live Our Buildings. - Věda a technologie
Wow, have these systems come a long way. Especially for renovations, which was once very rarely tackled.
Always the best content! Keep up the good work.
Are you going to show us what goes over the warmboard?
I understand the temp drop as the water makes its way back. Can you calculate the drop per length, and does floor type have a big influence? Your lookin good Steve.
Yes but there are many factors to consider to obtain reasonably accurate calculation
With our Warmboard Comfort System, we calculate all this for you - all parts and engineering included.
Can you only use hard finishes over warmboard?
How long can you make a loop?
Great information. I guess hydronics is taking over. Do they ever use an alcohol & water base mix in the pipes? Are you running a gas boiler or an electric? Are you still installing an underlayment on the floor? I bet the floor feels great. Just asking.
The original Warmboard, still offered today, is a full 1-1/8 subfloor. The issue is where grooves are machined, you’re looking at 5/8” osb subfloor. Depending upon joist spacing, that can result in excessive resilient floors. In time we’ve found it to result in squeaking and/or noisy floors. Their Warmboard-R is laid over subfloor. Installed correctly results in quieter, more solid floors. Better yet ime, Thermalboard too is a subfloor overlay, only thinner. More importantly the pipe is 3/8”, instead of 1/2” Pex and tube spacing is 8”, instead of 12” oc. Result is noticeably more even warming. Downside is increased labor as it’s more tubing and shorter loops.
No need for anti-freeze in system except when using ice melt systems on walkways and driveways.
We use hear pump water heaters feeding indirect water heater tank.
Adding propylene glycol to prevent freezing is very common in many parts of North America. You can run off of natural gas, propane or electric, though you won't get nearly the same energy savings with electric. Using an underlayment is necessary on some flooring types, but not all. Hardwood for example can be nailed/glued directly over our panels. For tile, we recommend 7 different assemblies depending on what would work best for the project and the installer. And yes - the floor will feel great, as will the rest of the house :)
@@Warmboard Why would anyone add glycol to hydronic system that is not exposed to freezing temps? Glycol is less efficient thermodynamically than H2O. Their are certain applications where the heat source may be external or in a non-heated uninsulated garage but that’s very rare.
Why would electric heat source beat less efficient? Heat pumps and even direct or indirect heat electric water heaters are 2-4X more efficient than gas fueled water heaters.
Perhaps it would be better if you had one of your firm’s engineers proof all technical responses prior to submitting. 🤦♂️
@Michael M You would not need to add propylene glycol to every system, only in some harsher environments. As a general rule, we recommend all projects which regularly experience outside air temps below 20ºF add a 10-30% mix of propylene glycol (depending on brand) to provide freeze protection. We may also make this recommendation for some vacation homes which may remain unoccupied for extended periods of time during the cold season.
As for electric boilers. (Cost per BTU: 1kwh = 3313 BTUs)
Electric boilers are extremely efficient (close to 100%), but one major consideration is Cost per BTU delivered. Whether using an Electric Resistance boiler, Electric Heat Pump, Ground Source Heat Pump, Air to Water Heat Pump, a Natural Gas or Propane boiler, every fuel source has operational costs. Operating costs for an Electric Resistance boiler in many parts of the country can be very expensive. Similarly, a high efficiency heat pump may still have higher operating costs than a gas boiler in some regions. We’re seeing a growing movement with homes using a photovoltaic grid-tie system to offset electric operating costs of heat pumps and electric boilers. Long story short, different kinds of heat sources yield different operational costs per BTU. As such, careful consideration of the heat source should be used in each market. We offer our customers a spreadsheet of this data customized to their local energy costs.
It’s also important to note that many domestic water heat pumps are not appropriate for radiant heat. If considering a Heat Pump for your next radiant system, we would highly recommend the Solstice SpacePak or Chilltrix Air to Water Heat Pumps.
If you would like more information on this, we’d be happy to provide it. And you'll be happy to know this information was provided by our in-house Technical Director. :) Thanks for pushing back to help ensure we provide the most accurate responses.
@@Warmboard We build, and have used Warmboard R in past, primarily in Boulder,-Nederland in CO as well as BigSky, MT. Winter temps in subzero F is common. We do not ever install propylene glycol in systems except outdoor sidewalk & driveway systems. Those outdoor systems are always on separate closed-loop system. Even hydronic heated garages do not run glycol, customers are advised to set temps at 52F minimum when not occupied. We only add a surfactant @2% solution to enhance thermal transfer.
We only build passive certified homes, none have LPG or CNG service. Heat source is always a Sanden heat pump water heater for domestic hot water which doubles as heat source for closed loop hydronic system through use of indirect water heater. All homes have solar systems to supply majority of electricity, all homes thus far are also connected to grid. We have our first off-grid currently under construction, up in Aspen, CO.
Can warmboard be used for cooling too? Or just it's only suitable for heating?
I don't know, but my guess is you might get condensation, at least on smooth floors. I would think you'd want some system that will pull moisture out of the air, at least in humid climates, maybe not in arid ones.
We done a few dozen cooling jobs over the year. Typically in the ceiling and requires numerous controls to mitigate moisture and humidity. Important to note that the cooling system would be separate from a heating system. In our experience, it's not ideal for some of the hot and humid clients.
2:10 whaaaaaat
Thermal mass seems to be important in building construction... I'm just curious why we don't seem to use it much in high end homes? I see thermal mass as a buffer of sorts for climate control. A well insulated slab installation would seemed to offer benefits like that?...
Thermal mass is a buffer. It can retain residual energy but buffers response time. The vast majority of ‘high end’ homes are not slab on grade, at least where we build in CO and MT. We do heated garage slabs on all homes, heated sidewalk and/or driveway in 20-25% of our homes.
I know a number of high end custom builders in Toronto area and NE US where sub grade basements are common that commonly employ heated slabs though they are still perimeter post and grade foundations. The heated basement slab is floating pad over foam block insulation
@@MichaelM-to4sg
Thermal mass is a buffer but it also seems to offer more to the living environment than just a buffer... I think just the sense of something solid... makes sense...
@@MichaelM-to4sg
I've looked into insulation under footings and that seems possible also...
@@jonerlandson1956 I don’t understand what you’re referencing by “something solid”. Do you mean foot feel walking on slab on-grade versus a raised wood framed floor?
Yes, we always insulate the outside of perimeter grade beam down to frost line. Here that means 48”, your situation may be different due to climate. We use GPS foam below grade extending to minimum 6” above grade, depending upon exterior siding treatment and materials. The subfloor is also insulated, we use min R30 mineral wool on most homes
@@MichaelM-to4sg
Moisture being drawn up from the base of a concrete footing is an issue... But yes... what you can sense in your home is important...
why are there 20 videos a day???