A/C Rehab & Repair - Ford F250 7.3 Powerstroke | Max A/C Mod & Cleaning Evap Core
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- čas přidán 11. 08. 2021
- The air conditioner on my 2000 Ford F250 is lacking. In this video, we clean out the Evap core, do the Max A/C Mod and re-seal the air box. MAJOR DIFFERENCE!!
#ford #powerstroke #fordtrucks #superduty
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I may have missed it, but did you take a BEFORE temp reading? thanks again
THANKS FOR THE SUPER!!!! I didn't take a before reading. Really, my primary issue was airflow and cleaning out that evap core helped out a ton.
I did this when I first bought my truck. Then I removed the refrigerant, installed propane, with a touch of air duster, and installed a smaller office tube. Flammable and crazy sounding? Yes. I don't recommend it. However, it's frosty no matter the temp outside. It could be 114, and you gotta turn it down! 😂 Makes my.lady mad sometimes as it's too cold!
I know it sounds crazy, study this on Google a bit, it really works.
I've actually seen this first hand. I had considered doing it on my 74.
@@ProjectTimeGarage the first time hearing about it as a Ford tech I was flabbergasted. I refused to believe it until I studied the use of propane use allowed in other countries, and how great it was. Then found if you mix in a small part of 1,1,1,2-Tetrafluoroethane(air duster) performance was improved yet again over r134a. Then tuned the system with an appropriate size orifice tube and I've never felt it this cold. Feels like an old r12 system.
Just be aware it's flammable, but so are the new 1234yf systems.
Great video, this will surely help people with low flow and inefficient thermal transfer to the air.
Dude you where so jolly and such a treat to watch and listen to!! Great quality in explaining
Glad you enjoyed it!
You saved me days without a truck and several hundred dollars! Thanks for the informative video. It took me
A couple of hours to perform the cleaning of the coil and resealing the cover. What a difference!
Glad it helped
Excellent video and great ingenuity! Reminds me of the farmer ingenuity that's becoming rarer and rarer. Definitely gonna have to try this on my '99!
Thanks!! There is a major difference since the mod
Absolutely helped my F250 v10 with its ac issues. Subscribed….. appreciate the video.
Awesome, thank you!
Have been putting these service mods off on my 7.3 all year! Thanks for sharing! Absolutely going to knock these out soon! -Dave, Lenoir City, TN
Thanks for watching, Dave!
Awesome video. Been wanting to clean my evap core, definitely going to try this first.
Should make a huge difference.
Badass video man! This helped me out on my own truck for sure, appreciate this video!
Glad to hear it!
Excellent Scientific Advancement! I'm bout to do the same thing, Your channel Rocks! Thanks for the great video!
Awesome man, thanks for watching!!
Going to give that evap cleaning a try on my '06. It looks pretty much the same as your unit - love that Ford changed very little sometimes over the years. The '06 Lariats come with the vac water valve already so I'm good there. Excellent vid! TK!
Yeah, I have an '03 6.0 truck and it already has that valve too.
Thank you for the video, got the mod done and it works amazingly.
Great to hear!
Awesome video man. Very well explained! This video helped out me a lot!
Awesome, thank you!
I took a 99 down to Guatemala when I retired last year and its pretty warm on a daily basis, definitely working on these suggestions ASAP. I've installed the riffraff filter and the PHP hydra so far....amazing improvement. Thanks for the videos bud...keep them coming.
How are you liking the Hydra?
@@ProjectTimeGarage that thing is impressive. Installation was quick and easy, and the performance is far more than what I expected. Definitely worth the recommendation.
Worked great for my 7.3 thanks for the mod video
Good to hear
That’s good information I’ve got the same problem with my truck going to look into it thanks
Glad to help
Thank you. Will hit this this weekend.
Good luck!
YEARS ago over on the old FTE website they did this using a Ranger valve. (Not sure what application your valve is) I did this on MY L99 and Boy, it made a difference!! Back then they/we were accessing the vacuum lines behind the glovebox door. They said we could use either the RED vacuum line that would CLOSE the valve on ANY setting on the left side of the "off" setting OR the WHITE line that would only close the valve on MAX A/C. I did the RED line and honestly hardly ever use the MAX setting.
Yep, this is basically the same thing. Deal was that the factory vacuum routing didn't shut off the heater core flow during A/C so the "mod" added a vavle to shut off the flow of water through the heater core during Max A/C. The difference is noticable. Fun fact, my they changed the 2003 trucks to be this way from the factory. My 2003 6.0 has this exact setup from Ford.
The best video I seen so far thank you
Glad to help!
I’m just going to put two ball valves in, turn one to block heater core, the other to circulate. $25. It’s what c3 corvettes came out with
Great video, I will be doing this on my 2002 f-250.
Thanks! Good luck, it's well worth it.
In addition to this modification - check your condenser coils condition - a lot of the system depends on the air flow though the coil.
I have a 2nd generation F250 that has a great design where someone put a house hold screen in front of the condenser before I bought the truck and road rash and bugs are kept out and wow it sure saved the entire system and my A/C runs at near 32 degrees that's {Fahrenheit}to you guys down south even on hot days where we get up to 36 degrees Celsius in 100 mile house up here in Canada - because the air flow is not abstrucked. Maybe give that a try and put a house hold screen in front of your condenser coil - but if its plugged and damaged then start again with a replacement condenser.
The other thing is the input pipe to the evaporator is near the exhaust manifold and really should be covered with insulation of some sort so that the heat doesn't affect the refrigerant going to the evaporator and you get max cooling.
That's a great suggestion. Thanks!!
@@ProjectTimeGarage Well Keep cool my friend keep cool - I sure do in my 2008 Super COOL truck {LoL} to the point where I have to turn on the heat a bit...
Thanks for this video, my air has been cool then warm then cool . Recharged the coolant with the same result BUT I keep hearing the max air door open and close , I know this now after your video, so I will be looking into the vac hose for leaks.
If your truck is pre 2003, then it doesn't have the valve that shuts off the heater core during Max A/C, but my 2003 F350 had it from the factory.
Good trick adding the rubber hose extension to the air line in conjunction with the angled tubing. Might do the same, thanks.
Wish I could take credit for it, but I saw it somewhere else. Makes it easy, though.
Excellent video. I'm chasing a musty and humid smell that just started. Seems to be draining so the evap coil is the next suspect.
I'll bet that's the source. It's fairly easy to clean out the evap core and surrounding area. That should help a lot.
I am learning a lot of great 7.3 tips from your videos. Keep it up!
Thanks, will do!
extreamly helpful
Thank you!!
Thanks for the great video.
Thanks Sally!!
Great editing and content good job
I appreciate it!
at 11:51 you can see the holes in the hinge that will allow you to access the bottom two screws that are pretty tough to get to without using the holes. 1/4 " extension will fit.
Thank you it helps me a lot
Glad to help!
excellent vid and info thanks sir
My pleasure
thanks, think I'll be doing this for my 2001 f250 SD
Good luck. You got this!!
So glad I found your channel, very clear and concise! I have a 2000 F250 and plan to do many of the upgrades (mods) you do. One thing on the AC video, you say you washed off the heater core with a water hose but you didn't show this. If this can be done where does the water drain. Thanks
Welcome aboard!! Yeah, I thought I had footage of the wash process, but I didn't. The water drains out of the air box using a factory supplied hole - the same one that your A/C leaks from during normal operation.
@@ProjectTimeGarage Thanks for getting back! I looked under my dash and found there was already a tee connection with a vacuum line going through the firewall. Traced it to a valve spliced in one of the heater hoses that was open with heat and regular ac but would shut on max. Only blocks water going to heater core, no return.. Guess only thing left is to clean the heater core. I would send a picture if I knew how. Have a great weekend
@@bellstevenp Cool, so someone already did it on yours. This is how the 2003 and later trucks were from the factory. I have a 03 6.0 and it came that way new.
Just subscribed to your channel. You have great content. 😎🤙
Welcome aboard!
I can’t work to do this🤙🏽thank you so much for this video🙏🏽my truck needs this badly😅 99f250 crew cab 4wd
It makes a HUGE difference. Let us know how it works out for you.
Great video thanks
Glad you enjoyed it
Just replace your Evap core. It's not that big or expensive a job, and they will eventually start leaking on you anyway. Helps a lot with flow. Glad I did mine awhile back. Now I have pretty much a completely new system.
If it comes down to it, I will, but this was way too quick and easy not to do.
Going to give this a try on my new (to me) ‘99 F250!
Really helped mine. Hope yours helps too!
It's better to drill a hole in the box near the OUTFLOW side of the evaporator and blow air through the core to try and blow the stuff stuck in the inflow side back towards the fan-hole. I like to spray Purple Power on both sides to soften the crud first - wait a while - then spray water from outlet-to-inlet, then finish with compressed air.
Thanks, that's great info!!
I’ve seen this done before on a 6.7 so I’m going to try to find it in this 7.3
I don’t think purple power safe on aluminum?
@@joshuaseerI would use the spray cleaner they make for AC . I use it on my Rv Roof AC unit.
I did this and had pretty good luck with a brush that had a good angle to it. I also did use some hose and a blow gun plus a vacuum cleaner. I used an inspection mirror to monitor my progress. It definitely helped my airflow. I've been using a special environmentally friendly freon that mixes with just about anything. An 8 ounce can was equal to 21oz of 134a. It's worked flawlessly for over 15 years and blows extremely cold. Now it blows way better. Thanks for your video. It made my day. I do need to get a new AC wiring harness though as mine is very brittle and has lots of electrical tape bandaids keeping the shorts at bay. Where can we get this wiring harness ? Make it from scratch with connectors with pigtails?
Yeah, for most of that stuff, I just make it one-off. I'm sure a dealer somewhere carries it, but sometimes it's just easier to make it.
Great video I just traded my uncle my gmc 06 pickup for his 07 6.0 diesel because he is to old to have it and ac doesn’t hardly blow I’m going to try your deal before I bring it to a ac tech thanks again for your time
Hope it works out for you!!
You just helped me. I did the fan and the speed controller and my next item was the evap. Didn’t even think to check the panel inside for air leaks. For sure I’m doing the bypass too.
Awesome, hope it helps yours out!
Thank you so much
You're most welcome
Sir thank you for this video. When u spray cleaner and water in there will it all drain out of the condensation line?
Yes, it sure will.
Thank you
You're welcome
Great video thank you so much for the information. Quick question does the 2003 F350. 7.3 L powerstroke have a cabin air filter ??
They don't. Wish they did though.
HI, we have been going through our ac on our 1999 f250 7.3. Appreciate your mod info which we may be attempting. We have gotten the unit working but the bowl that houses the blower fan is not draining and darn if we can find where the tube drains to the outside to try and clear it, even after trying to clear off the road grime.
Would you possibly be able to give us an idea where to look more precisely than the info that I have been able to find: through the firewall near the passengers side wheel well?
Love your channel that you for all of the information that you share. We are new to owning a diesel so the channel has been a big boost in our learning curve. Thank you
The drain is on the lower passenger side of the firewall, in engine compartment. It's tough to see, but it's there. Usually a coathanger or a stiff piece of wire will do the job of unclogging it.
Hey just wondering what size weather stripping was it 1/4 in and what size vacuum like and what fittings when moving I threw out my extra stuff I had it all to Tia
The weatherstripping was some junk I had in my collection. I'm sure it came from Home Depot. All the lines/fittings were 1/4"
Appreciate the very helpful videos on the 7.3. My 1999 F-350 A/C blows ice cold but randomly shuts off and blows warm air. If I turn off and let it sit for 2-3 mins it usually will blow cold again… sometimes it’ll work all day without issue and other times only 2 mins.
Could this be a vacuum issue?
Could be freezing up the evap core. That ususally happens when you're low on refrigerant.
question where exactly is the fresh air intake for the AC? it doesnt appear obvious without taking the cowling off. thanks
I believe it is under the wiper cowl.
Hello. Great video. Thank you!.
Couple of questions.
This valve seems to be out of stock at Amazon, what other valve would you recommend? brand and perhaps, part number.
What tuner would you recommend for my 99 F250, automatic, 4x4. There seem to be a bunch of options, all with different reviews. I am looking for better shifting, maybe better performance and readings would help. I almost never tow with it.
Thanks again.
Here's another link: amzn.to/3Qt96CG
These are the only ones I actually recommend. These are genuine Ford parts and were standard on the 2003 and newer trucks.
On the tuner, the only one I've ever used on the 7.3 engines is the PHP Hydra. Have a look at Full Force Diesel's website. They carry pretty much all of them, but the Hydra is where I'm staying personally.
Hi, I have a 2002 F250 V10, AC is very cold on warm days but if its really hot or I am towing in hot weather the fan blows warm air, If i switch it off for a while while driving and turn it back on its cold for a while then warm again, is it freezing up ? Thanks Gary
Probably so.
Well hell. I thought something was wrong. . . When the compressor and coolant tested good, I thought I was losing my mind.
That's what I went through myself - never got my mind back, though.
Wow, cool!
Yep it is finally cool! 😂
@@ProjectTimeGarage Hahaha, good one.
Ok I tried your jumper to get the compressor to cycle it worked I got a can in it but I heard a hissing coming from in front of radiator that ac looking radiator had a hole rubbed in it from a cooler in front of it. Help lol
That would be your condenser. Time for a new condenser and some o-rings. Junkyard is your friend.
Does the orientation of the lines in relation to the valve matter?
I believe so.
I have a 2001 f250 7.3 and already have the max air mod down which helps when on Max AC, i also have washed Cleaned/washed out the evaporater coil. The air just doesn't blow cold with normal AC on. What temps are you seeing with normal AC on?
Normal A/C is in the mid-60's. Max A/C is in the mid-40's. That's measured at the center vent, on low fan with all other vents closed.
How did you get the panel to slide back on the heater core ? I was able to remove it fine, for whatever reason I’m struggling to get that tab to slide over the bracket
Yeah, it was a MOTHER to get back on. I tried like ten times, then like the next time, it just popped right back on, no problem.
I'm gonna have to try this, my 99 7.3 if it isn't on max you might as well not have it on and recently after a 2 hour drive on a 100 degree day about an hour and a half in it would start blowing warm air for a few minutes then switch back to cool very annoyed about it.
Yeah, on 100 degree days it's a must.
Thank you I save couple dollars I did it by myself
Good deal. Always nice to save some $$$
Awesome video man, I’m doing it to my 7.3 E 350 van. At night my vent temperature is 25 . I also have a 6.0. Do you know if the 6.0 comes with it from the factory or do I need to do the mod?
I believe Ford implemented this change for the 2003 model year.
@@ProjectTimeGarage thanks
Thanks. Curious why you didn't blow out the evaporator core from inside the truck when you had the cover off...
Best I can remember, you can only see the heater core from the inside. I'm thinking the evap core is behind it, but then again, I'm old and that was almost a year ago, so I may be wrong.
Just watched the video myself, he never exposed the evap core under the hood, just removed the blower and blew out the crap with air. I actually just replaced mine since everything else was replaced.
He did expose the heater core behind the glove box and that's what he sealed up with weather stripping. (Think you're mistaken that for the evap)
Instead of blowing it out could I make a nozzle for shop vac and suck that mess out ?
I'm sure you could. My problem was not being able to access all of the core. I had to settle for "most of it".
Wonder if the core cleaner you use for your home ac would help clean these
Not sure. Only thing I would worry about is seals/gaskets. Some of the evap cleaner has a lot of acid in it, I think.
@@ProjectTimeGarage very true, I have a 05 6.0 and the ac is less than amazing especially in the North Carolina humidity.
Question will this also work on a 2008 6.4 - both cleaning and adding the water control value- sorry another question how did you get the shop vacuum hose in did you go in the air vent itself? Thanks for all ur support
Not sure on the newer trucks, but I *think* they all had the correct water control valve from the factory - My 2003 had it, so I assume they started doing it sometime after 2000, since my 2000 didn't have it from the factory. Getting the shop vac in there was done from the outside, under the hood. I took the blower motor out and did the best I could to reach back there with a tiny hose and suck it all out.
@@ProjectTimeGaragemy 2002 PSD doesn't have it so it's on my list as well.
Hi, good video......my A/C is nice and cold but when its really hot it blows warm, if i switch it off for 10 mins and put back on its cold again, any ideas would be appreciated........Gary
Check your high and low pressure sensors as well as the a/c wiring for cracks and shorts in the wiring.
I'll also add that if you're low on refrigerant, it will cause the evap core to freeze over, resulting in no airflow across the fins which means low airflow and lukewarm air - when you turn the system off for a few minutes the ice melts and you're back to cold air until the cycle repeats.
What is the refrigerant charge amount on these? Anyone? I have a 99 and 32oz gets me about 58 going down the road with 100deg weather. Cool but it won’t freeze you out. I have a complete brand new everything system also.
Not sure on actual charge, but 32oz is probably pretty close. I usually go by the low-side pressures based on ambient temp to get one dialed in.
where would I get the vaccum line and t fitting?
Any auto parts store would have this for cheap.
Hello!! I did this conversion, however, I started having problems with pressure. Now my defrost barely blows on the drivers side, and will not push heat on the passenger side.
When I disconnect the T-valve under the dash, I feel nothing. It doesn't suck or blow. My vaccum pump however does work, as I have disconnected the right tube when looking at it from the top, standing on the passenger side of vehicle.
I don't know what to do but remove the conversion for sake of pressuring?
All online info only pertains to defrost on, I cannot find any information on defrost minimally working.
Also, if there was a leak on a line somewhere wouldn't the pump stay activated because it cannot reach 15psi?
I'm lost...send help.
There has to be a vacuum leak somewhere. Take a length of hose and go from the vacuum pump to the inside of the truck. See if you can make things work that way as a test.
Will this also work on a 2004 6.0 powerstroke?
The 2004 shouldn't need the valve modification because Ford did it from the factory starting in 2003 or so. But, cleaning the core should be the same.
Ok. On my 97. That actuator is not only max ac. But normal and vent. Also the actuator by the fan blower is your vent door. Dose the same thing on the same settings. Why go through the fire wall when you can go right there about 6 in away??
Just did a direct copy of how my 03 was from the factory.
@@ProjectTimeGarage that’s cool I was just wondering.. I did some looking to see if there was a closer available tap. Sure enough rite there lol
I have something weird going on with my 2000 f250 ac works fine when started then after a while usually when truck is turned on and off shortly after runny the ac for a while the mode switch doesn't work and defaults to windshield vents. Blend door actuator maybe?
Auto locking hubs or manual?
@@ProjectTimeGarage I'm using manual
@@croneous I ask because the original hubs used vacuum to engage. If that line gets unhooked or cracked, it'll cause that same issue. Been there.
@@ProjectTimeGarage hmm maybe I'll give that line a check thank you!
@@croneous check those vacuum lines and reservoir. And definitely make sure the pump is actually actuating.
Where does the water go after you rinse the evap core? do you have to use a wet vac or does it drain by itself?
It drains out the same hole that the A/C system drips from.
@ProjectTimeGarage i did it last thursday and man was it plugged up. Hitting mid 40s now!!! Thank you
So when you cut the hoses, do you just put the HCV on as is?
Which one is the inlet and which one is the outlet?
Don't recall right off which is which. Been a while.
Did you end up spraying water through it also? If so did it all drain out properly?
I did spray it gently with the garden hose. Water drained out through the factory provided A/C condensation drain port. Just make sure it's not plugged up with crud first.
I plugged the hose to the valve and still same results? My air pump runs doesn't turn off so is that a leak?
My pump runs all the time too on both my trucks. Normal.
My air pump definitely cycles on and off to replenish the vacuum reservoir. If it runs constantly there is a leak. Been there done that.
Mine is blowing out the defroster now ? After I installed this
The vacuum hose must be open to atmosphere somewhere.
Where does the condensation drain from? Mine will cool off pretty good then get hot. Will work for the first 5 minutes then won't work at all.
There is a drain in the bottom of the air box. It leads to the outside, kinda behind the front pass tire way down on the firewall.
I just did what you did on the video. But I also replaced the resistor. Mine only had one speed now it has all 4. But now my blower motor vibrates the truck so hard. Also think I need to recharge the a/c as well
@@wolfwowitz Pull that blower motor/fan out. It may have junk caked on it making it out of balance. I think you can just buy the fan itself too, without having to buy the motor.
I have 2003 ford f20 5.4 GAS, did this diesel truck have a blower resistor ? think i barely see the connector there. If your talking the EVAP. I think you should have taken out the blower resistor off first and used that hole to spray anything on the evaporator. The blower resistor is usually pretty rusty to begin with, any more water or whatever could melt it or corrode it even more, which can lead to connector and blower motor fail, LATA.
Yes there is a resistor. I chose not to go that deep into mine and I'm glad I didn't. It's been 2 years since I did this video and my AC is freezing cold and there's tons of airflow.
@@ProjectTimeGarage as long as it worked out, the resistor being damaged can damage the connector and the blower motor which is a bad thing and costly but it worked, wow good for you.
Stupid question. Did it help your air flow a little as well mine blows cold but only feel it about a foot from the vent makes it rough to drive daily lol
Oh manz it made ALL the difference in mine. Night and day for sure.
@@ProjectTimeGarage sweet imma try and do it this weekend. What size vacuum line did you use?
Of the two things you did which one do you think did the most good?
Man, it's a toss up for sure. On the one hand, hot air from the heater core gets mixed in with the Air Conditioning, then my Evap core was clogged pretty bad - I had almost no airflow out of the vents. I guess I would say washing out the core probably made the most difference.
Thanks for the fast reply. Good stuff on your channel.
I just used that foil tape that they use on A/C duct work to stop the airflow on the cover of the heater core for now.
I just did this job and the previous owner had the hoses from the water pump and passenger head switched at the core opposite of the way u have it in the video. Smh. Does that matter?
And The part of the valve w the arrow is coming from the top of the water pump.
I don't think it really matters.
@@ProjectTimeGaragethanks for the response. so I checked the arrow ➡ etched into the inlet of the valve and my water pump hose is going to it so the flow is correct. I feel a lot better. Works great also. Big difference
Does this work on 3gen dodge Cummins
Not sure.
What size vacuum lines did you use?
Honestly just some I had laying around. Probably 1/8" if I had to guess.
@@ProjectTimeGarage ah okay, thanks!
Does it matter what side u put the lines
Don't think so.
If my 2000 ford f350 7.3 powerstroke AC goes out, do I need to replace the whole system since they no longer use freon or can they still use the current ac unit and ad the new standards substance?
You can still buy the R134a refrigerant at any local parts store. It will probably be available for many many decades.
Should there be air in the hose when i pull the hose off from the valve?
Suction maybe. But I don't see how air would be in it.
Hey, try this. Remove the hose from the valve and plug off the hose. See if it still goes to Defrost.
Should there be air coming out the air pump on the niple on the end with the T? My air pump stops when I put my finer over the open niple?
Finger
Nipple
Great video. Very helpful. I have to wonder though if the process would have been better/easier if you left the interior cover off the unit before taking off the fan/blower. That way you could have put a wet/dry vacuum cleaner hose where the fan was and used the compressed air from INSIDE the cab to blow the dirt, etc. towards the vacuum cleaner hose. Seems like it would be a much, MUCH better way to unclog the nooks and crannies -- without making a mess. Would also probably make water optional.
Great point!
Bill Darling,
I need some help please. What interior cover are you refering to that can be removed and air blown through and dirt collected by a vacuum put where the fan motor sits? The cover discussed in the video is the Heater Core cover. What am I missing? Thanks!
@@billbaker3300 Oops. I misunderstood what I was seeing / hearing in the video. My proposed change to his process would have cleaned the heater core, not the A/C evap core. thanks for asking - I haven't gone through the process on my truck yet and I would have missed the opportunity to actually clean the A/C evap core if you hadn't asked.
@@billdarling2629 Me either. My symptoms is that I get cold air blowing in the cab only when driving at speed, however, no cold air blows when parked.
Do you think cleaning the evap filter will help my truck?
Project time garage, can you help regarding my 2000 f250's symptoms?
Thanks,
Bill
@@billbaker3300 are you sure your fan is working? one way to test it is to see if you get the same results with the heater. they both use the same fan. If the fan works fine with the heater but doesn't (seem to) work with the A/C, it might be an electrical problem. in either case, I don't see how cleaning the evap coil will resolve your problem. BTW, if your A/C doesn't work at all when on "max A/C" -- even when driving at speed -- that would confirm your fan isn't working while your A/C is on.
It blows on ac but when I turn to max ac it goes to defrost??
So, what's happening here is that when you turn it to MAX, it sends vacuum to the new valve you installed. Either the valve's internal vacuum diaphram is bad, or the hose has a hole in it somewhere. Reason being is that the Defrost setting is the default setting if the system loses vacuum. That tells me that you turn to MAX and the hose is sucking air rather than pulling the heater valve closed.
I checked for vacuum leaks it holds vacumnn and brand new hose from the diverter valve so I'm guessing it's the valve then . Thanks a lot
@@buddyluv5 Very likely. Oh, so the hose does have vacuum at the valve? Yeah, that sounds like a bad valve.
Just paid about 30$ for the valve at Oreillys
Cool, was your Motorcraft or another brand?
👍🏻
Thanks!
What kind of truck is it.?
2000 Ford F250
Does all this also pertain to a 2002 f250 7.3 ?
I think it does. Ford made the modification themselves at some point, I'm thinking it was the 2003 model year. I say that because I have an '03 and it's had this since day 1 from the dealership. Looks like they changed a lot of stuff for the 03 model year, I assumed that was one of the modifications.
I installed this and my max ax doesn’t work?
Did you figure it out ?
No
It’s cold on regular ac but max ac don’t work
If that's the case, then there is no vacuum going to the canister in the passenger's floorboard area. To test, turn to MAX A/C then take your finger and manually close the vacuum canister. If it works, then you have a vacuum leak somewhere in that hose.
So it’s ok to spray water..
Yeah, didn't hurt mine.
@@ProjectTimeGarage I have 06 f350 6.0 super duty…it’s the same AC setup…
at 12:30 is this the back side of the evap core ?
No, that's the heater core.
lol @ dance like uma therman, what if we'd rather dance like jager lol
Yeah, I okay with Jager too. Hell, I'm ok with MC Hammer. But I can't dance. 🤣
@@ProjectTimeGarage LOL
Little nippily
Just a tid bit