That’s great David! 67 is an excellent year for these old trucks. Let me know if you have any questions. Easiest to reach me on FB at Facebook.com/ItsTheChad71 if you have it. Thanks for watching!
Hey Chad! Love the videos! That tool is cool and neat for nice paint jobs, I’ll be looking for one soon. I’ve always use the old paint can opener. Same way as the cool tool.
Got the Lisle (Lie-ull) tool for my 66 Sting Ray. Works like a regular charm. I'm a cheater though, I was around a body shop as a kid and saw it get used a lot.
Chad, I have a multi-function tool called simply; Hose Removal Tool SnapOn # A173A Now, I am by no means telling anyone to buy this, but make one! Everyone has an older Phillips blade screwdriver that’s worn. Heat it on not in a vise, use a long box wrench and bend an “S” shape on the end. 1 1/4” long, then bent back 1/2” and grind the tip to a semi sharp point. I feel for the release tab, lift and done. I do use anti-seize on the wiper pivot. That is what they call it at the dealer and sticking to that! Now, Question. In this video, upper right corner you flashed a photo insert. Two Tone trucks were common with a reflective white as most sold for $3,185 in 1967, in my truck (Yes, got the sticker and RPO codes) but 6 cylinder with granny low 4 spd. But, from the Fremont, CA. plant, it cost $110 extra to have a large rear window in 1967. Code W14 says in my book “Manufactures Option” but my RPO code book stops at 1969. My question is, the white painted top! We’re does it stop on the cab and window frames on doors? The only original factory never touched stopped at the rain gutter and window frames were the field color. (WoW, new video idea) Mine came to me for $150 in 1973 with 281k miles on the Odometer after the cable broke, one owner, construction company maintenance truck. They brought diesel, oil and waist oil back from construction sites and serviced bulldozers, backhoe’s, earthmovers or scrapers, but the wood bed was soaked with spills and leaks from all these liquids. Today, I am sure someone would go to environmental prison for years, but this one is being updated & rebuilt by me! Thanks. DK, ASE master tech since 1978, retired.
Neat tool idea Dean! The 67 is my buddies. Most all of the 67 did have the ivory top that stopped at the rain gutters or drip rails. Some late 67s and 68 and up had white on the top, rails top of doors and A pillar. I believe they change to white from ivory as well.
@@ItsTheChad71 Thanks for the information after all, they were built in several plants. Ermine White & Capri Cream are the two 1967 truck Whites. Maybe that is the difference as GM used “Ditzler, Lucite to PPG.” It seems like the type of paint was an Acrylic Lacquer while Ford was using Enamel. The 67 White stopped at the drip rail and 68 painted the “A” pillar & window frames as original, but have not see but a few in this era with OEM paint & patina. It appears that almost every rebuilt was done in 1968 style, while top & window frames. Thanks, stay safe!
Dit is een super goede tip maar is hier jammer genoeg niet niet leverbaar dus woon ik toch in een verkeert werelddeel Groetjes van een Nederlandse kijker
I bought the tool and am still having difficulty. The truck was painted and I can see paint on the splines under the arm. I'll keep working at it as I have the trash screens to install and the hoses to the sprayers disintegrated.
I don't know why painters wouldn't take the extra 30 seconds and tape them off. It sure makes them a burger to get off! My little allen wrench helped to pry them off, but I had junk paint!
@@ItsTheChad71 I was able to get the wipers off. Just knowing that they should come off without having to simultaneously trip the catch was enough. I wiggled them a lot with just the tool and they finally popped off, showing paint fully in the splines. Thank you for the video!
If you haven’t watched my wiper motor video, you might check it out. The wiper motors have a park position. Once there, that’s when I install the arms so the blades are just above the bottom of the glass. I hope that makes sense.
Be sure to change out the Wiper motor it takes awhile nice and slow AutoZone still sells the Motor just make sure you match it to the Old motor - 2- wire -3- wire etc. Oh and one more thing 🤔LIFE TIME WARRANTY 👍
One quirk about the stock '67 wiper motor is that it comes wired with the switch on the negative wiper leads instead of having the switch control the positive leads. I have both 67 and a 72. The motors and pumps look exactly the same. I have heard some 67 pumps are slightly different but don’t know their difference. If you switch to a 68-72 wiper switch you should be able to use any replacement motor or pump.
@@dondavis6997 Thank you for this comment! Mine were seized up with paint but just knowing that I did not have to simultaneously depress the tab was the game changer. I just worked at them a lot and they eventually came off - showing a lot of paint in the splines.
Saved my bacon again. 33-150
Great info bud!
Alright! I'm always happy to help the next guy! Thanks for watching!!
OMG Thank you!!! I've Googled this for days!! So frustrating ... Def subcribing. Single woman with a 65 chevy , very informative
You are more than welcome! I’m always happy to help folks out. Especially C10 folks!
Allen wrench here.
I'm thankful to know a guy with this tool. Maybe he will let me borrow it.
I think that can be arranged!
Thanks Chad, I just purchased a '67 C30 and these videos saved me a lot of time and aggravation
That’s great David! 67 is an excellent year for these old trucks. Let me know if you have any questions. Easiest to reach me on FB at Facebook.com/ItsTheChad71 if you have it. Thanks for watching!
My daughter calls an allen wrench a “furniture key”😂…I also have used those as a pry tool!
I love it! At least we know exactly what tool she is talking about!
Thank you 🫡
You bet! Thanks for watching!
I bought that tool last year and now getting ready to use it. Thanks!
You bet! It’s works great!
Very useful the auto part store didn't give me the right advice
I appreciate it! Sometimes I want to step behind the counter and find the parts myself!
Hey Chad! Love the videos! That tool is cool and neat for nice paint jobs, I’ll be looking for one soon.
I’ve always use the old paint can opener. Same way as the cool tool.
I wish I would have known about these when I had shiny trucks! lol
My 67 wipers were miss aligned. It was quick and easy adjustment. Thank you
Good deal! Always glad to help the next guy!
Thanks Chad, you do a awesome job save me lots of time I purchased a 1967 c 10 and think I,m going to really like your channel
That’s great Gary! You can’t go wrong with a 67!
GREAT info brother! Thank you!
I appreciate it! Thanks for watching!
Got the Lisle (Lie-ull) tool for my 66 Sting Ray. Works like a regular charm. I'm a cheater though, I was around a body shop as a kid and saw it get used a lot.
It is so darn handy! So simple.
Chad, I have a multi-function tool called simply; Hose Removal Tool
SnapOn # A173A Now, I am by no means telling anyone to buy this, but make one! Everyone has an older Phillips blade screwdriver that’s worn. Heat it on not in a vise, use a long box wrench and bend an “S” shape on the end. 1 1/4” long, then bent back 1/2” and grind the tip to a semi sharp point. I feel for the release tab, lift and done. I do use anti-seize on the wiper pivot. That is what they call it at the dealer and sticking to that!
Now, Question. In this video, upper right corner you flashed a photo insert. Two Tone trucks were common with a reflective white as most sold for $3,185 in 1967, in my truck (Yes, got the sticker and RPO codes) but 6 cylinder with granny low 4 spd. But, from the Fremont, CA. plant, it cost $110 extra to have a large rear window in 1967. Code W14 says in my book “Manufactures Option” but my RPO code book stops at 1969.
My question is, the white painted top! We’re does it stop on the cab and window frames on doors?
The only original factory never touched stopped at the rain gutter and window frames were the field color. (WoW, new video idea) Mine came to me for $150 in 1973 with 281k miles on the Odometer after the cable broke, one owner, construction company maintenance truck. They brought diesel, oil and waist oil back from construction sites and serviced bulldozers, backhoe’s, earthmovers or scrapers, but the wood bed was soaked with spills and leaks from all these liquids. Today, I am sure someone would go to environmental prison for years, but this one is being updated & rebuilt by me! Thanks.
DK, ASE master tech since 1978, retired.
Neat tool idea Dean! The 67 is my buddies. Most all of the 67 did have the ivory top that stopped at the rain gutters or drip rails. Some late 67s and 68 and up had white on the top, rails top of doors and A pillar. I believe they change to white from ivory as well.
@@ItsTheChad71 Thanks for the information after all, they were built in several plants. Ermine White & Capri Cream are the two 1967 truck Whites. Maybe that is the difference as GM used “Ditzler, Lucite to PPG.” It seems like the type of paint was an Acrylic Lacquer while Ford was using Enamel.
The 67 White stopped at the drip rail and 68 painted the “A” pillar & window frames as original, but have not see but a few in this era with OEM paint & patina. It appears that almost every rebuilt was done in 1968 style, while top & window frames.
Thanks, stay safe!
Good info, Chad.
Thanks Peter! I hope it could help!
Thank you very much for help
You bet! Thank you for watching!
Dit is een super goede tip maar is hier jammer genoeg niet niet leverbaar dus woon ik toch in een verkeert werelddeel
Groetjes van een Nederlandse kijker
Thanks for the support! Sorry you can’t get one over there! It’s awesome to see how far CZcams can reach!
I bought the tool and am still having difficulty. The truck was painted and I can see paint on the splines under the arm. I'll keep working at it as I have the trash screens to install and the hoses to the sprayers disintegrated.
I don't know why painters wouldn't take the extra 30 seconds and tape them off. It sure makes them a burger to get off! My little allen wrench helped to pry them off, but I had junk paint!
@@ItsTheChad71 I was able to get the wipers off. Just knowing that they should come off without having to simultaneously trip the catch was enough. I wiggled them a lot with just the tool and they finally popped off, showing paint fully in the splines. Thank you for the video!
@@keithbrann5086 good deal! Give them them a good cleaning with a stiff bristle brush and never worry about it again! Always glad to help!
I bought a 1968 GMC without wiper arms now I'm having heck of time trying to find the resting position to put the new arms on. any advice?
If you haven’t watched my wiper motor video, you might check it out. The wiper motors have a park position. Once there, that’s when I install the arms so the blades are just above the bottom of the glass. I hope that makes sense.
Be sure to change out the Wiper motor it takes awhile nice and slow AutoZone still sells the Motor just make sure you match it to the Old motor - 2- wire -3- wire etc.
Oh and one more thing 🤔LIFE TIME WARRANTY 👍
I have a 67 and can't find a replacement washer pump , are the 67 wiper motor and washer pump different on the 67?
One quirk about the stock '67 wiper motor is that it comes wired with the switch on the negative wiper leads instead of having the switch control the positive leads. I have both 67 and a 72. The motors and pumps look exactly the same. I have heard some 67 pumps are slightly different but don’t know their difference. If you switch to a 68-72 wiper switch you should be able to use any replacement motor or pump.
Or I just go upstairs and I grab another pair of arms
I wish I had that luxury!
Or I go upstairs in my garage and there. Grab a new pair of oreginald's new use pair.
Lucky
I give you a hint there's no need to depress that tab
I can’t get it off without raising the arm or depressing the tab laying flat.
@@ItsTheChad71 Just lifting the arm up is all you need to do. It takes the pressure off.
And then they come off,
@@dondavis6997 good deal! Thanks
@@dondavis6997 Thank you for this comment! Mine were seized up with paint but just knowing that I did not have to simultaneously depress the tab was the game changer. I just worked at them a lot and they eventually came off - showing a lot of paint in the splines.
Wil they work on a 64 C10?
They were different. 67-72s we’re all the same though.