C5 C6 Corvette Clutch Fluid (Change OFTEN or PAY LATER!)
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- čas přidán 4. 11. 2023
- If you have a manual transmission C5 or C6 Corvette - you need to change your clutch fluid in the reservoir OFTEN to prevent sticking issues down the road!
*Bleeding the stock C5 Clutch (w/o speed bleeder - difficult): www.corvetteforum.com/article...
*Bleeding the stock C6/C7 Clutch (w/o speed bleeder - difficult): www.corvetteforum.com/how-tos...
** Super easy way to help support the channel (& future content)! Any purchase made by clicking one of the links below (even if you purchase a different product) earns the channel a small (& appreciated) commission from Amazon. As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases.
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Use the "ranger" method for exchanging your clutch fluid.....remove all of the fluid from the reservoir, add new fluid, then pump the clutch pedal 20-30 times & check the fluid color again, if dirty, repeat the process until the fluid is clear
It's touched on in the video.
YEP. Do it all at once and alleviate any future problems. I had to refill mine about 6 times to get all the dark fluid out. Empty the reservoir fill it back up, pump the clutch pedal about v2 times, as you said, empty the reservoir again, pump the clutch pedal again and keep repeating until fluid is crystal clear. My clutch pumped all the way back uo to the top, where before it only came back up about a half inch after it engaged. Thanks.
Finally I found another channel that can show more shows about the C5 or C6! keep it up!
Thanks 👍
I wish I had seen this video a while back. It would have saved me several thousand dollars to fix the clutch. This video has great advice!
This is one of those items I need to perform next.
It's easier than I had thought and thankfully so.
Great video. As you know I have an A4 but always enjoy learning something new from your videos.
Great Video! I totally agree!
Many people don't learn about this until something goes wrong.
Fantastic, thank you very much!!
I will be doing this, thank you for the details!
Nice - your Corvette will thank you!
Excellent and very valuable advice. Thanks for the reminder.
My pleasure!
I appreciate your videos, as I am still learning how to take the best care possible of my C5. Thank you!
Glad to help
Nice day. Top down and a nice drive by the ocean with my wife. Better yet no issues or problems with the gremlins. Thank you for your great content. I thought I was going to loose it replacing my HB with a 8 rib. You know, just incase of a power need. Wink, wink.
Best C5 channel on CZcams ❤
Thank you for the great information and reference points.
Glad you think so!
Great reminder! Need to get out and Ranger my C6 fluid!
"Ranger"?
@@WarriorsPhoto I’ll try to keep this short: many years ago on the Corvette Forum there was a guy with the username Ranger. He described a method of changing the clutch fluid almost exactly as shown here, but with the added step of pumping the clutch pedal around 100 times and re-checking the fluid color. If it wasn’t still clear, drain, refill, and pump again. Do this until the fluid remains clear after pumping. Guys on the forum dubbed this the “Ranger method.”
To be filed under “strange but true,” this is what my local Corvette shop calls it, too, and I don’t think they’re on the forum at all.
I do this regularly for my c6 and c4. Both are sparkly clean and the clutch pedal in both cars noticeably improved when I started doing this. Thanks again for the awesome video!!!
Appreciate the comment, sir!
Once again another informative video. I have been doing this process on my C5 Z51 6 spd. now since I bought the car 3 1/2 years ago at every oil change which is every 3 months.
Nice work!
A lot of people over look this fluid. Great info
Sir, we need to get you into a Corvette!
Great video(s) Your explainations and video are perfect. I do not have the speed bleeder so I followed your technique of extract and refill reservoir. I am not 100% sure how this hydraulic clutch system works on a C6 and or compares to other cars, but I have read alot on this set up (C6) and most people talk of this "Ranger" flush method. It is exactly the same as your method but they add that after you clean and refill reservoir with fresh fluid, Recap and pump Clutch Pedal 30 times. The fluid mixes and changes out (to some degree) with the Slave cylinder and components and as they stated, Fluid will go dark again just after 30 Pedal pumps. This held true for me. As they reccomend, continue to suck out and repeat this process until fluid remains clear following clutch pedal pumping. The fluid got lighter each time and I did this cycle about 8 times using the (Entire 11.5 oz bottle). I cannot explain, as I know on Brake systems the fluid is essentially static. This Corvette Hydraulic system seams to be a bit different as there is some exchange/mixing of fluid. Perhaps proximity to the Slave cylinder??
I will add that even after these multiple flushes, the clutch fluid began to take on some color again is fairly short order ( 2 weeks). Just a slight golden but nothing like initial.
Do you have any thoughts or opinions on my words ???
I will repeat all of this before the summer season starts again and see if the fluid clarity holds out longer. Just my observations from my 2008 Z06 Wil Cooksey Edition
Thank you for your expertise fantastic videos.
The Ranger method is a bit more "thorough" than just replacing the fluid in the reservoir, but also less thorough than truly bleeding the system (which is a pain until you get a remote bleeder installed). The actual fluid you're changing out via the Ranger method is probably mostly that in the line between the reservoir and master cylinder - a way to speed up the process some people have used is to attach a length of tubing to a syringe filled with fresh fluid and snake it as far down the hole in the bottom of the reservoir as you can, then inject the fresh fluid, which will push the old fluid back up into the reservoir where it can be extracted and replaced. As you said, much like a brake system, the fluid between the master and slave cylinders (and in the slave cylinder) is more "static", moving back and forth with each press of the pedal more than really circulating. This is why bleeding it is the only real way to replace it all in one go. Part of the reason you get so much gunk out during the Ranger method (and why your fluid in the reservoir gets dirty after driving) is diffusion of those particles throughout the fluid rather than circulation of the fluid itself.
I think the Ranger method is usually when you are having problems and are trying everything possible (short of swapping parts) to get the clutch to work properly. The method I described is more of a maintenance item to hopefully prevent problems in the first place.
Its been about a year since I did this last, so I guess its time to do it again.
Cool.
Good tip. I'm gonna do that today. I paid $3,900 for my 99 FRC 10 years ago with 40 K miles on it. However, it was totaled at that time.
Nice - did you rebuild it yourself?
@@Toys4Life Actually, I did 8 C5's, two ZO6's, as sort of a hobby. The FRC was the last one and is the keeper. It was also the most damaged one. I had to replace every body part except the roof (I did that twice, both ZO6's) and the doors and had to cut off the frame at the firewall and weld a wrecking yard one on. A friend, Shirl Dickey, who got me into rebuilding C5's, rebuilt 28 C5's before he retired.
Actually sounds kind of fun, good work sir keeping them on the road 😁
@@Toys4LifeYeah, it is (sort of) fun. BTW, after getting the roof off you can make an FRC, fastback or convertible, your choice.
There is an updated part from GM that is the clutch master cylinder and reservoir. This is the fix for pedal going to the floor. The new part has a black reservoir instead of the white reservoir.
Interesting, please provide a link to an article? Cheers and thanks.
May I suggest that after you change the fluid pump the clutch about 25-30 times until it becomes dark again. Do this until the fluid in the reservoir is clear normally about 5-7 times.
Absolutely, especially if your fluids really nasty. Otherwise, the way I explain it should be vastly superior and hopefully becomes a normal routine, versus what most people do, which is absolutely nothing 😞.
If you drain your fluid and refill it. Then cycle the clutch pedal several times. Then drain the fluid again and refill it repeat this process several times until the fluid in the resivor stays clean you've pretty much flushed the fluid.
That approach if fairly common as well!
I just recently had this issue in my C5Z. The pedal wasn't sticking to the floor, but it was extremely mushy after just 1 or 2 hard shifts. The car only has 24k miles, but the fluid was BLACK. I did this method probably 10-15 times over the summer and the clutch has gotten much better, and there is now an obvious bite point rather than being extremely vague like before. Every now and again it still goes to mush if I'm doing hard driving, hopefully I'm able to swing it without a new SC or MC and this was enough of a fix. If anyone has any thoughts please let me know!
IMO - If hard means repeated pulls through the gears to 6500 rpms and then it starts sticking to the floor - I believe it could be your pressure plate. There are numerous threads about this happening back when these cars were pretty new. If flushing and even following the steps to actually bleed your slave cylinder doesn't solve the issue - aftermarket clutch is likely the solution.
@@Toys4Lifethis is interesting. I actually saw some threads about that. The clutch wasn’t necessarily sticking to the floor, rather just getting very mushy and vague. The bite point seemed to be wandering. This would happen for a couple shifts until I pumped the clutch a few times and then it would clear up. The clutch fluid change seems to have helped tremendously! I hope it stays that way…
I’ve just picked up a lowish miles C5z and I’m experiencing some issues shifting at high RPMs. Im pretty sure the clutch is dragging because it is difficult to get both out of the lower gear and into the next, and my pedal got stuck halfway up once.
I somewhat impulsively went out and bought a Tick MC which I have yet to install, because I’m at least trying to get the clutch fluid clean by draining the reservoir and replacing before I swap the MC. I’ve been through a quart of brake fluid so far, and it’s still dark after every drive hahaha. I’d welcome any thoughts on my approach.
@@squack921I’ve done mine every 100 miles for months and it’s also dark after every drive. Doing the MC yourself will be a nightmare unless you have a lift and good friends. I definitely noticed a difference with my clutch after the reservoir trick. If you do end up installing the MC, definitely buy a remote bleeder kit to install while it’s all apart. It’s a heck of a job. Good luck
Hey I got a question for my a&a v2 supercharger for my c5. It doesn’t have its own oil right? also mine appears to have a belt squeak. Thanks
You'll have to double check with the manufacturer of your head unit on your car. I think you're right though I believe the v2's tap into the engine for oil.
So do you have to bleed it after changing it in the reservoir or is it just recommended
Bleeding is very difficult. Chang the fluid in the reservoir fairly yearly and hopefully you never have to bleed it - unless you have that speed bleeder. If you have a speed bleeder - bleed it yearly. Cheers!