I'm real impressed by my stock 94 mustang short block with milled (.040) gt40 heads, Alex springs, comp nx264hr cam (adv 4deg), Mac equal length headers, ported explorer lower stock explorer upper and tb. Streetability is very responsive and fun. Plus still 20mpgs.
I scored some NOS Two-Bar (Marine) GT40 heads. A friend ported them, removed the EGR bumps, cleaned up the slag on the OE headers (40% larger at flange!) added a ported E4 intake, a recurved distributor, and 1.7 SVO rockers to my '85. Woke it RIGHT up and nobody knows it's modded. :-)
I just got done doing this. Gt40p's from a 2001 Mountaineer. $39 each at my local yard. Ported them myself and had a friend mill them. Added an Alex's drop in spring kit and they work great! Awesome performance on a budget.
How much you can mill the head? Stock cam? Stock rocker arm ? I want to improve my explorer motor but i dont know how long i can go without stamping a valve in a pistón 🤣
I would like to see a 351w with max ported gt40heads, milled down, bigger valves, roller rocker conversion, good race valves, polished chambers, It would be nice to see what the combo would do if you were to do everything possible to the gt40 heads. I have looked all over the internet and no one has done a video on a truly maxed out set of gt40 heads its really disappointing!
@@timothywalker2273 problem is... as good as the internet is, you can't beat paperback..... I have kept over 30 years of street machine, zoom, fast ford, performance ford etc etc, and I can tell you that finding the 30 year old articles detailing the work involved from the guy's whom did this. Is worth it's weight in gold 👍
What it costs for a fully worked 240 cfm GT40 head you can buy aluminum. Many hours labor and flow benching. Vizard iron GT40/ E7TE heads are $4,000 ready to run. I think Charlie Servideo said $2,000 for just porting his.
@@hotrodray6802 I understand there's better cheaper ways these days but the look on someone's face when they underestimate you and you blow their doors off is priceless
@@sheldonbromen2603 Then definitely get DV iron heads and Big Dogs stage 3 original HO intake and ported 65mm and BD cam. Or even BD ported iron heads for less $. Look stock, make 400+ HP crank, and 340+ wheel.
Richard, I have to say thank you for answering any and all questions I had regarding Ford 5.0 cylinder heads and camshafts. You compare apples to apples instead of testing what a set of heads are worth, but sneak in a different camshaft or intake to skew the results. Also, anyone else here wish they had HALF of Richard's energy??
Hello I have a 5 liter ford and I want to bud another one with a tunable ECU cuz I have speed density but I wanna be able to tune it because I want to upgrade stuff and still have it run right I like chocolate pudding and banana bread I'll even take a handful of those washers and huck em at cyclists
Makes a LOT of low-end Torque, especially with a stock HO Mustang cam, if you have a 1994-up 5.8L roller block.... but runs out of airflow pretty quick as the RPM's climb. Great towing/torque engine, though.
Raced a 306 for 2 years. Had professional ported set of 65 289 on it. Bought a set of rpm heads on it! Picked up 1 tenth, that's it! The weight reduction was probably half that!! Went to a 351w with the ported heads! Picked up a whole second in the 1/8 mile! Paid $500 for the 351w short block! Solid lifter Fred Flintstone cam! If a 351w will fit!! The headers were really close to the floor boards, but didn't hit!
Just put a gt40 headed 302 stock bottom end on the dyno. Made 360hp and 360ft lbs of torque with the xe266hr camshaft. Edlebrock 600cfm with the edelbrock performer 289 intKe manifold. Ran clean out to 6500 still making 330hp at that rpm. Very happy with this combo
@@shalver66 the best advise is what ever cam you think you want, buy the next step down. Get another XE camshaft but with a little less lift. On the other hand, pretty sure Richard has run the xe274hr with a stock bottom end. Watch all his sbf videos, good info. Between him a David vizzard i built a 306 that makes 480 hp with 445ft lbs of torque on pump gas, with world products iron heads
Answering your question, depends on what you want or are using the motor for. If it’s just a Saturday cruiser and you’re on a budget, the GT40(p) heads are perfect. If you want more HP and invested in other mods to support added HP, then a good set of aluminum heads makes sense.
Both 40 and 40p heads will need better valve springs for high rpm work but the biggest difference is the relocated spark plug and smaller exhaust valves on the 40p. Ford moved the plug for better fuel mixing and went with the smaller E7 size valves because the hardened seat inserts on the earlier GT40's were more expensive than induction hardening the seats on the p's. Ford made up for the smaller valves with a slightly better exhaust port on the latter heads. Both will support 375-400 hp with mild porting (mostly on the exhaust side) and the right cam but i think they more cost effective and durable for a 350 ish HP 302 400 HP 351 build.
Running a 302 explorer swap from a running mountaineer I snagged for 400$ set up with a holley sniper is actually a pretty rowdy set up for my Miata swap. Haven’t done any dragy times but its all power to weight at this point for me
I’m glad you did this. I have a 65 fastback mustang with a 327 SBF with red cornet ported gt40 heads and comp 25-246-3 cam. I love it. It was put together in 1998 and its a mix breed. I do not remember all the parts and have never had to rebuild it. I am hesitant to change heads but want more power. I have 190 cc edelbrock rpm heads and seeing this has made me decide to put them on. With the current engine I have beat in the 1/8 mile. late model 5.0 stangs challenger , charger and a 2016 corvette ( shouldn’t have won this one ) . I’m afraid to give up dependability.
You should redo this kind of test put upgrade the springs from the GT40/P heads. The engine is only designed to go to 5,000 rpm and you ended up with valve float
Dang it Richard, you're giving away the factory lightning set-up to the dumb dumbs! Another awesome video sir! My hot street set-up has always been the f4 351w, gt-p's, trick flow stage two. Such a rowdy trash can engine!
Thank you for all of your help and testing Richard. I just purchased a 351 from a guy last week. I’m looking for a set of gt40 heads now. The yard is out of them. I will let you know what I think of the set up when I get it in my foxbody vert next year.
@@Prestiged_peck They are early C heads. B heads are referred to as swirl port. These 99 continental heads share the same 200°@ .050 intake, 196° @ .050, .397 lift cams that the 99/01 cobra is equipped with. They use the same exact head casting as well. Flow is 218cfm on the intake side at .400 lift and they are 9.05:1 compression on a stock NPI shortblock.
@@madmod you can get the later aviator heads if you have a sawzall and a few hours. Problem is most are full of metal shavings from failed timing chain guides
@@ElPants21 Aviator engines are great. I actually have an aviator wap block that will be getting my non pi heads on it after they get some work done. Im just throwing stock 4v stuff together to see how affordable the swap really is. Most of the cars that come into my local parts yard are running and driving so they are reasonably good cores.
@@madmod all the ones that I seem to come across have bits of timing chain guide in the oil pan so I generally pull them, tear them down, and sell them for parts.
Good timing Mr Holdener. I am doing a gt40p swap this week. Waiting for the heads to come back from the machine shop. I nicked some of the valve seats while porting the bowl and had to have the seats re ground. I am upgrading the valve springs with the TFS spring kit and topping it off with 7.1 ratio roller rockers. The engine was using D8OE heads so I am hoping to get 50HP out of this swap.
It should be mentioned the GT40p does have a smaller exhaust valve than the gt40 which once you get past .500 lift has a dramatic effect on flow. If you go with a gt40p you should probably stay around .500 or less unless you do some valve work to open them up. If you want a high lift cam you should probably get the GT40 instead.
My combo is 2000 explorer long block Alex springs drop in springs , B cam with 1.6-1.7 scorpion roller rockers. Mac long tube headers .Fox coupe V8 swap T5 , 4.10 gears .
@@void7365 runs plenty strong in a 2800 lb foxbody with a/c , not stripped down . I disagree with the whole blurb on the gt40 being better due to a bigger exhaust valve . P head is a fast burn head , I found no difference when I put 16* initial timing in my car , in fact car ran like crap low rpm with b cam . I put timing at 12* with spout out and car drives damn good now. I do drive this car to work 26 miles one way . For a stock head I like the p head , I would not put a huge cam with a stock head anyway so there’s a reason I bought aluminum heads for another project.
I’d like to see the GT40 head on a Windsor vs the Double Hump heads on the 350. I know that the double humps would have the advantage because of the fast burn combustion chamber design vs the GT40 semi hemispheric design with similar camshafts. Just another idea. Thanks again Richard for a great video.
I think the GT40'S would flow more air and that's where the power would come from. My 40P's are 58cc chambers. I can't tell you the specs on the Chevy heads.
I have the original E5 head off my motor. I had them plained down 8 thousandths to get a good surface. I came across the 40P's by accident. Through the research I did I knew they were a better head and added HP. The 40 series heads have weak springs. I decided to get the upgraded springs so I wouldn't have any valve float. I'm looking to get them ported. Not many shops do that now. I don't have any experience doing that so I'm leaving my hands off so I don't screw them up.
@@charlesespenshade Look up Eric Weingartner racing and Headbites on CZcams. A lot of porting and polishing tutorials. If you’re going to upgrade cylinder heads in the future, go with a set of AFR 185cc Renegade or the Enforcer cylinder heads. By the time you pay an experienced porter, Machine shop machining for screw n studs-guide plates, 2.02-1.60 valves, you could get a very nice set of aluminum heads that will smoke the GT40’s. All that work done on the GT40’s would be $1200.00 and up. Good luck on your project.
@@StainlessTIG2 I'm running stock rockers and push rods. I have $400 in my heads. The guy I bought them from had them shaved for a stroker motor he was building. He decided to go aluminum heads instead. For what I wanted to build the P heads are perfect. I'm not running down the strip with it. I just wanted a good street car. I got what I wanted to build all day long.
@@StainlessTIG2 All I had to do to the P heads is fix the weak spot being in the springs. If you think Frankenstein is slow, think again. I'm still in building stage you can say. I'm still running the 7.5 rear which won't hold up long. I have subframe connectors that need put in yet also. My motor has a lot of torque. Having the V6 torque converter, trans and rear displaces the power in a different way. It's named Frankenstein for a reason. Nothing in that car really belongs in it but it all works perfectly together.
Got a set of home ported big valve e7's, a set of gt40 and gt40p's, and my Canfield 192cc's. All have homes save for the p heads. Got the Canfield's for $600 complete on CL. Rest came from cheap junkyard motors.
i built a 398w and put gt40 heads on it seems to run real good with plenty of power been wanting to put it on the Dino to see what it makes feels like 450 or 500 hp cant wait to see
GT40 heads are really attractive for the price, but a good cylinder head combo doesn't move my T-Bird while the engine is sitting on the dyno. The promise of removing 60lbs entirely by switching to aluminum heads is pretty appealing. Throw the battery in the trunk, and I'm getting closer to 50/50 weight distribution.
My 1985 reverse rotation ski boat will need a freshening sooner or later. It was cursed with a 351W, the 350 Chevy was a $600 40hp upgrade back in the day (240hp vs 280hp). I bought the boat used in 1987 and had no choice. The GT40 heads seem like a solid cheap upgrade for an engine that only revs to about 4600rpm. An RV cam comparison would be helpful for us boat and truck guys.
@@OldDirtGuy by proclaiming your boat or motor or house or kid or wife or life us cursed, it will be... "my children are destroyed for a Lack of knowledge" -Hosea 4:6
Gday. Mate ya videos are fantastic I went the lazy route a. Blueprint 306. They original stated 390 horse power and end up with 300 rwhp but I should have got the 347. Ohh well still tears the rear tyres up. Keep up the great. Videos. Blueprint. Heads. Seem to do ok. Also
@@sweetassugar2076 I haven't drove it I have one lifter making noise and broke a valve cover bolt off in the head 🙃 I'm running stud mount rockers with 1.6 rollers which caused my valve covers not clearing had to buy 1/2 inch valve cover spacers and 1/2 intake spacer
They used a mild cam roller conversion with lightly porting on the p heads, no valve job, and the Franken-intake from using a 351w lower ported to the 5.0 upper plenum. It was a Maf engine already and with a dyno tune he was pulling right about 110hp more than his base engine. Really neat build that still looks factory unless you look hard at it.
@@richardholdener1727 sorry I didn’t clarify it earlier 😂. It seemed like a really good build for what it was. Also I own a 93 bronco with the 351w that I will be building up on a budget somewhat soon just to improve the power:efficiency ratio because as of right now it sucks gas for barely any power. Looking to do the same build as that guy had done but I was wondering about if you had looked into Flotek heads before as they were about the same price as the GT40P heads but were aluminum heads and if I remember correctly I’m pretty sure aluminum heads allow a lower octane rating for higher compression ratios because of heat transfer efficiencies so I would like to do that instead but want some more input from others on how good they really are.
All in the application. Full size car or truck/bronco /explorer vs Fox body/older light car swap, daily vs weekend warrior. Seems like you would not want any of the cams you run if your vehicle weighs over 4k and you actually want to drive it every day - you would gain little or even lose lower end and use more fuel. So without a " bigger than stock cam" why would you run massively great flowing heads? The GT40's are just right, even with porting for such an application.
@@richardholdener1727 Okay, I'd heard that " camming up" wouldn't help much for heavy vehicles with the 5.0 and watching your dyno runs seemed to confirm it - losing torq n hp below 3000 - where most of the driving occurs. I'll watch again. Thanks!
Would you mind trying truck-oriented combinations for the 5.0/5.8? On this power/torque graph, none of the rpms plotted are relevant for a truck for towing, pulling its own heavy weight and offroading, where a truck needs a lot of torque in the lower rpms. Maybe 1000 to 4000 rpm gains? Stock intake versus Edelbrock? Stock heads versus GT40(p), AFR 165? Sorry if I'm asking for a lot. OBS Ford Bronco here.
GT40/GT40P heads on a 5.8L/351W (1996 in my F250) with a stock '88-'92 Mustang HO cam and longtube Hedman Hedders makes HELLA towing power with 4.10 gears! People will think you have a 460 under the hood! However... the stock 351W/5.8 EFI intake stops at around 4000-4500 rpm TOPS! (dual 3" Y-into a single 3" exhaust)
A 408W stroker engine with GT40/GT40P heads (watch your compression ratio!) and a stock HO Mustang cam will make torque almost comparable to a 460. The stock EFI 5.8 intake will be 100% done by 4000 RPM, though.
When you pick up the GT's make sure to snag an Explorer upper intake, it's actually a little big for your application but everything else is even bigger.
@@johnjones928 I thought the explorer upper intakes weren’t as good as the older 5.0 intakes from bronco’s and such for flow? I know the Frank-intake idea where you use a 351 lower with 302 truck upper ported and matched is the best oem thing you can do but I didn’t think the explorer intake was better?
I'm still wanting to see a GT40 vs D0OE head comparison, those were the old school go to heads. I have 1 set on my truck, 1 set on the shelf, and a set of GT40P heads on a old explorer engine.
Hay Richard. On tonights live feed. Can you discuss oil control hacks. Re routing , plugs, and so on. In the last feed i mentioned rhoads lifter or bleed off lifters. Could you do some oil pressure test to see if these can be manipulated with oil pressure?
Already I have the '95 351 Windsor with the full ported GT40P heads, to finnish my homework I want to install the Z303 roller cam, and further like Richard put it boost, hahahaha (evil laugh)
Sir Holdener, will there ever be any plans to do a comparison of the two best heads available, the TFS 11R vs an AFR Renegade on a stock bottom end 302????
The Kaase canted valve heads might be better and still fit a stock 4.0 bore. They're huge though, 240cc. Car craft did a test years ago with a huge hydraulic roller and made 520hp with a stock 5.0 short block at 7800rpm.
@@timothybayliss6680 those are a bit out of range of ‘most’ enthusiasts! I think the 11R and the AFR are easily the two biggest contenders for the average sbf guy looking to get a new set of heads wanting the most power they can get on a reasonable budget.
GT40/P for a street car that you want some pep in it I'd skip the eddie heads AFR heads would be my go to. Almost 400hp (roughy, an extra 70hp) for an additional $800-900. If I get the Eddie heads for $1100, how much more would I have to spend on the short block to make 400hp? A set of pistons is about $600 to raise the compression and even then, it may not be enough. So for a weekend warrior, AFR would be the best bet and they would still lend themselves nicely if I were to build a short block or go to a high comp, big bore 351w.
Hey Richard, I’ve watched almost all your videos, even ones with motors I don’t have….just because you’re one of the sharpest with your data and breakdowns on giving us the best comparisons! Question, do have any cases where you compared an edelbrock or TFS intake with a professional products typhoon? I’m curious to know the difference. Edelbrock and TFS intakes (EFI) are around 1,000-1,300$ these days, and I picked up a polished Typhoon for $300.
I think there's an unanswered question here. What do you get if you put a decent set of springs on the GT40p heads? You made note that your valve springs were a problem, and a set of springs is dirt cheap compared to even the Edelbrocks you used for your next stop up.
@@richardholdener1727 I see your point. If the port is already at max flow there's nothing to gain by having springs capable of supporting higher revs.
One thing that I haven't seen mentioned is the significant amount of weight off the front end of the car by going with a set of aluminum heads, plus the added chamber size consistency....I have read several times that the factory heads, especially the e7e heads have pretty significant differences from chamber to chamber. I have never cc'dd a set, but that is the 'rumor'. For my $$ I would buy a set of basic ally heads before putting a bunch of money into rehabbing the factory iron anchors. Plus they are much easier to port and polish
How about the cheaper Edelbrock heads and a XE274 cam?!? I’m thinking it would at least equal the power of the AFR165’s in this test! Cheaper heads and cam is probably the same cost as the XE264....cheaper combo, same power!
@@richardholdener1727 i am referring to the Edelbrock heads in your test....you said they were much cheaper than the AFR’s used in the test. The Edelbrock heads made less power than the AFR’s using the same XE264 cam. Would the Edelbrock heads, used in the video, run with XE274 cam make equivalent power to the AFR’s, used in the video, with the XE264 cam, used in the video?
Love your videos! I picked up a junkyard high milage (200k)1996 explore 5.0 with GT40 heads. I took a chance and thru it directly into my 65 Fastback with AOD trans and lost the EFI and carbed it, put all the vbelt stuff on it and man I am happy. It gets on it when I smash that throttle. Probably have about $400 total into that engine swap (engine, gaskets, and conv harmonic balancer). My question is should I have ported my gt40 heads on exhaust side? Would there be noticeable more power and how much difference? Also now days I want to keep good MPG since I daily drive my car. Should I swap out the cam for like a TFS1 came and springs? Would that lose more MPG then the explorer cam? Currently intake is Performer 289 and exhaust mainifods are stock 65 289 ones and 3.55 rear end. Im not trying to make a track car, just a daily driver with great MPG and some wallumpf!
So Richard.. how about this... street 302... ever thought about doing a "custom " cam and off the shelf cam comparison to eliminate all the hype? Maybe some stock trick flows versus ported trick flows
@@19jody72 Id disagree....a custom cam from anyone but Comp Cams would be interesting. Let's say Comp vs. Bullet vs. Jones Cam Designs vs. somebody not commonly used.
@@hoost3056 hmm... you think? I don't see how a custom cam is going to be the magic on a street motor. I mean if you jack up the lift to 570-615 and a ton of duration.. but then you're going to beT the valve train up. When I say street, I'm Talking about get in it and drive across country chilling with the ac going
Custom cam doesnt mean ANYTHING, I have a “custom” Demo’s cam that has almost IDENTICAL specs as a lingenfelter “turbo” tpi cam, the only difference being the LSA. Very little difference i felt other than the idle characteristics
I have a 1989 crown Vic ltd with a 302 with 83k miles my motor idles high I’m guessing it needs a tune up for sitting so long it hesitates in gear Sometimes I’m trying to refurbish throw motor on stock block just rebuild all over it any advices or tips? I have videos up of me working on it slowly
Hmm... These graphs show GT40 heads and a turbo is the way to go unless all you want is high rpm. Then buy high flow aluminum and build the whole engine to handle 7500rpm or higher. Me? I'm building a car to drive all over and tow a camper so I'm going with the GT40 and a turbo. My only choice rebuild my 302 or buy a junkyard 351. Although I'm leaning more towards keeping my 302, get the GT40 heads, put high quality valve springs in and rev that engine to 6500-7000. 450hp for cheap with a turbo 302 is sounding really good. Hopefully I can coax 400+ lb-ft out of it at 3000rpm. Big block power out of a tiny engine.
So there isnt a big power difference between the standard 40s and the Ps? Currently cleaning up the bowls on a set of GT40 heads now. Exhaust looks to need the most work lol. Went with a super low buck combo, whole explorer 5.0, BBK LTs, lunati valve spring upgrade, 1.7 RRs and an E cam. Going into a 90 Tbird SC to be a drift learner car.
1972 I was a Jr. in High School, building the 15 foot B gas dragster that my uncle had sitting in the back yard, I also happen to live on the same street as the high school. Anyway, I give him a hundred bucks and I dragged it home. I did so coz I happen to have a 1966 289 A code engine that had rebuilt, w/ some DIY head work, a healthy solid lift cam w/c4 tranny. I didn't have $ for safety stuff to run it at Fremont drag strip ..only 3 miles away ..so I'd fire it up and my crew (friends) would follow me to the high school parking lot ..where I'd do burnouts w/old school M/T slicks on the weekends..
Did you ever get valve float fixed to see what kind of games they would make what is the best spring so far for the gt40p heads to help fight valve float
You'd be hard pressed to find a SBC 'junkyard' motor period over here when I last looked most guys that have a runner(probably suit rebuild would be upwards of $1500!) I was looking for good runner to put into my '69 while it's bottom end was in the machine shop.
I'm real impressed by my stock 94 mustang short block with milled (.040) gt40 heads, Alex springs, comp nx264hr cam (adv 4deg), Mac equal length headers, ported explorer lower stock explorer upper and tb. Streetability is very responsive and fun. Plus still 20mpgs.
good combo
I'm running a Crane 284-2 cam. What a wild ride with the 4r70w trans and 273 gears.
@@charlesespenshade you got any videos of your set up?
Yes.
czcams.com/video/ihN-15Kn1BM/video.htmlfeature=shared
@@gntsmetalfab8094
czcams.com/video/ihN-15Kn1BM/video.htmlfeature=shared
I scored some NOS Two-Bar (Marine) GT40 heads. A friend ported them, removed the EGR bumps, cleaned up the slag on the OE headers (40% larger at flange!) added a ported E4 intake, a recurved distributor, and 1.7 SVO rockers to my '85. Woke it RIGHT up and nobody knows it's modded. :-)
ford stuff? instant thumbs up from me.
I just got done doing this. Gt40p's from a 2001 Mountaineer. $39 each at my local yard. Ported them myself and had a friend mill them. Added an Alex's drop in spring kit and they work great! Awesome performance on a budget.
I’m in the process of doing the same! Did you use your stock rocker arms?
How much you can mill the head? Stock cam? Stock rocker arm ? I want to improve my explorer motor but i dont know how long i can go without stamping a valve in a pistón 🤣
@@humbertogarza9225 Check P/V now, then mill once you know what you have. As in, if you have.200" and you can live with .08" then mill .120" off.
Do you have the link for those springs?
What about headers, don’t need different headers to run GT40p in a fox body?
I would like to see a 351w with max ported gt40heads, milled down, bigger valves, roller rocker conversion, good race valves, polished chambers, It would be nice to see what the combo would do if you were to do everything possible to the gt40 heads. I have looked all over the internet and no one has done a video on a truly maxed out set of gt40 heads its really disappointing!
True I've looked for the same thing yet I know many guys did the exact thing to these heads 30 years ago
@@timothywalker2273 problem is... as good as the internet is, you can't beat paperback..... I have kept over 30 years of street machine, zoom, fast ford, performance ford etc etc, and I can tell you that finding the 30 year old articles detailing the work involved from the guy's whom did this. Is worth it's weight in gold 👍
What it costs for a fully worked 240 cfm GT40 head you can buy aluminum. Many hours labor and flow benching. Vizard iron GT40/ E7TE heads are $4,000 ready to run.
I think Charlie Servideo said $2,000 for just porting his.
@@hotrodray6802 I understand there's better cheaper ways these days but the look on someone's face when they underestimate you and you blow their doors off is priceless
@@sheldonbromen2603 Then definitely get DV iron heads and Big Dogs stage 3 original HO intake and ported 65mm and BD cam.
Or even BD ported iron heads for less $. Look stock, make 400+ HP crank, and 340+ wheel.
The People’s head for me. For a budget street engine, it’s seems to make power in all the right places.
Richard, I have to say thank you for answering any and all questions I had regarding Ford 5.0 cylinder heads and camshafts. You compare apples to apples instead of testing what a set of heads are worth, but sneak in a different camshaft or intake to skew the results.
Also, anyone else here wish they had HALF of Richard's energy??
Hello I have a 5 liter ford and I want to bud another one with a tunable ECU cuz I have speed density but I wanna be able to tune it because I want to upgrade stuff and still have it run right I like chocolate pudding and banana bread I'll even take a handful of those washers and huck em at cyclists
Every time I build a sbf I use gt40 or gt40p heads from explorers. 351w late. Model blocks with roller cam and gt40p heads work good for truck
Well now you have to do a GT40 head on the 351 test Richard.
Makes a LOT of low-end Torque, especially with a stock HO Mustang cam, if you have a 1994-up 5.8L roller block.... but runs out of airflow pretty quick as the RPM's climb. Great towing/torque engine, though.
Raced a 306 for 2 years. Had professional ported set of 65 289 on it. Bought a set of rpm heads on it! Picked up 1 tenth, that's it! The weight reduction was probably half that!! Went to a 351w with the ported heads! Picked up a whole second in the 1/8 mile! Paid $500 for the 351w short block! Solid lifter Fred Flintstone cam! If a 351w will fit!! The headers were really close to the floor boards, but didn't hit!
Just put a gt40 headed 302 stock bottom end on the dyno. Made 360hp and 360ft lbs of torque with the xe266hr camshaft. Edlebrock 600cfm with the edelbrock performer 289 intKe manifold. Ran clean out to 6500 still making 330hp at that rpm. Very happy with this combo
I was going to try the same with XE274HR.
@@shalver66 if you dyno it, please share your results
@@jasonhooey5677 I’m working on it now. I’m concerned about the PTV clearance. We’ll see when I get to that point.
@@shalver66 the best advise is what ever cam you think you want, buy the next step down. Get another XE camshaft but with a little less lift.
On the other hand, pretty sure Richard has run the xe274hr with a stock bottom end. Watch all his sbf videos, good info.
Between him a David vizzard i built a 306 that makes 480 hp with 445ft lbs of torque on pump gas, with world products iron heads
I got a 1989 crown Vic build
Answering your question, depends on what you want or are using the motor for. If it’s just a Saturday cruiser and you’re on a budget, the GT40(p) heads are perfect. If you want more HP and invested in other mods to support added HP, then a good set of aluminum heads makes sense.
30 hp for real cheap. Like it. 🤘😎🇺🇸
Both 40 and 40p heads will need better valve springs for high rpm work but the biggest difference is the relocated spark plug and smaller exhaust valves on the 40p. Ford moved the plug for better fuel mixing and went with the smaller E7 size valves because the hardened seat inserts on the earlier GT40's were more expensive than induction hardening the seats on the p's. Ford made up for the smaller valves with a slightly better exhaust port on the latter heads. Both will support 375-400 hp with mild porting (mostly on the exhaust side) and the right cam but i think they more cost effective and durable for a 350 ish HP 302 400 HP 351 build.
The great thing about this Channel is that makes you think that is very healthy
Running a 302 explorer swap from a running mountaineer I snagged for 400$ set up with a holley sniper is actually a pretty rowdy set up for my Miata swap. Haven’t done any dragy times but its all power to weight at this point for me
I’m glad you did this. I have a 65 fastback mustang with a 327 SBF with red cornet ported gt40 heads and comp 25-246-3 cam. I love it. It was put together in 1998 and its a mix breed. I do not remember all the parts and have never had to rebuild it. I am hesitant to change heads but want more power. I have 190 cc edelbrock rpm heads and seeing this has made me decide to put them on. With the current engine I have beat in the 1/8 mile. late model 5.0 stangs challenger , charger and a 2016 corvette ( shouldn’t have won this one ) . I’m afraid to give up dependability.
LOVE
I know I have been busting your chops a lot about doing this video lol THANK YOU for doing it!!!! THIS is why you are awesome.....LITERALLY lol
I’m actually upgrading right now from the Gt40p heads to the ProMaxx max series heads as we speak! 💪🏼 just in time! Thank you Richard!
How much for your gt40p heads?
Came here to find exactly this info, lines up with my research and bench racing. Thanks!
You should redo this kind of test put upgrade the springs from the GT40/P heads. The engine is only designed to go to 5,000 rpm and you ended up with valve float
Thanks Richard! We appreciate what you do!
I always tell people if you want to make quality, streetable horsepower, invest energy and just a few bucks in getting the right heads.
Great stuff again! By far my most favorite channel. Thx Richard!!!
Dang it Richard, you're giving away the factory lightning set-up to the dumb dumbs! Another awesome video sir! My hot street set-up has always been the f4 351w, gt-p's, trick flow stage two. Such a rowdy trash can engine!
Trick Flow Stage 1 cam will match the flow of those GT40P heads better than Stage 2.
Thank you for all of your help and testing Richard. I just purchased a 351 from a guy last week. I’m looking for a set of gt40 heads now. The yard is out of them. I will let you know what I think of the set up when I get it in my foxbody vert next year.
I just sourced a set of gt40p heads for a friend. I grabbed some 99 tumbleport dual overhead cam heads for my Mustang while I was at it.
Tumble port? Ar those the b or the early C heads?
@@Prestiged_peck They are early C heads. B heads are referred to as swirl port. These 99 continental heads share the same 200°@ .050 intake, 196° @ .050, .397 lift cams that the 99/01 cobra is equipped with. They use the same exact head casting as well. Flow is 218cfm on the intake side at .400 lift and they are 9.05:1 compression on a stock NPI shortblock.
@@madmod you can get the later aviator heads if you have a sawzall and a few hours. Problem is most are full of metal shavings from failed timing chain guides
@@ElPants21 Aviator engines are great. I actually have an aviator wap block that will be getting my non pi heads on it after they get some work done. Im just throwing stock 4v stuff together to see how affordable the swap really is. Most of the cars that come into my local parts yard are running and driving so they are reasonably good cores.
@@madmod all the ones that I seem to come across have bits of timing chain guide in the oil pan so I generally pull them, tear them down, and sell them for parts.
For a 5k rpm and down engine, that is a good power curve
Dang, i was really hoping to se what the gt40p heads do on a 351
This
@@hondatech5000 no, that's too much of an assumption.
take a look at the tfs TW head test video
@@richardholdener1727 ok, thanks. I'll go through them all and find that one. Unless its labeled tfs tw head test video.
@@richardholdener1727 is that the video with the 347?
Good timing Mr Holdener. I am doing a gt40p swap this week. Waiting for the heads to come back from the machine shop. I nicked some of the valve seats while porting the bowl and had to have the seats re ground. I am upgrading the valve springs with the TFS spring kit and topping it off with 7.1 ratio roller rockers. The engine was using D8OE heads so I am hoping to get 50HP out of this swap.
It should be mentioned the GT40p does have a smaller exhaust valve than the gt40 which once you get past .500 lift has a dramatic effect on flow. If you go with a gt40p you should probably stay around .500 or less unless you do some valve work to open them up. If you want a high lift cam you should probably get the GT40 instead.
Good point
My combo is 2000 explorer long block Alex springs drop in springs , B cam with 1.6-1.7 scorpion roller rockers. Mac long tube headers .Fox coupe V8 swap T5 , 4.10 gears .
@@allenjay8157 Hows it run?
@@void7365 runs plenty strong in a 2800 lb foxbody with a/c , not stripped down .
I disagree with the whole blurb on the gt40 being better due to a bigger exhaust valve . P head is a fast burn head , I found no difference when I put 16* initial timing in my car , in fact car ran like crap low rpm with b cam . I put timing at 12* with spout out and car drives damn good now. I do drive this car to work 26 miles one way .
For a stock head I like the p head , I would not put a huge cam with a stock head anyway so there’s a reason I bought aluminum heads for another project.
I’d like to see the GT40 head on a Windsor vs the Double Hump heads on the 350. I know that the double humps would have the advantage because of the fast burn combustion chamber design vs the GT40 semi hemispheric design with similar camshafts. Just another idea. Thanks again Richard for a great video.
I think the GT40'S would flow more air and that's where the power would come from. My 40P's are 58cc chambers. I can't tell you the specs on the Chevy heads.
I have the original E5 head off my motor. I had them plained down 8 thousandths to get a good surface. I came across the 40P's by accident. Through the research I did I knew they were a better head and added HP. The 40 series heads have weak springs. I decided to get the upgraded springs so I wouldn't have any valve float.
I'm looking to get them ported. Not many shops do that now. I don't have any experience doing that so I'm leaving my hands off so I don't screw them up.
@@charlesespenshade Look up Eric Weingartner racing and Headbites on CZcams. A lot of porting and polishing tutorials. If you’re going to upgrade cylinder heads in the future, go with a set of AFR 185cc Renegade or the Enforcer cylinder heads. By the time you pay an experienced porter, Machine shop machining for screw n studs-guide plates, 2.02-1.60 valves, you could get a very nice set of aluminum heads that will smoke the GT40’s. All that work done on the GT40’s would be $1200.00 and up. Good luck on your project.
@@StainlessTIG2 I'm running stock rockers and push rods. I have $400 in my heads. The guy I bought them from had them shaved for a stroker motor he was building. He decided to go aluminum heads instead. For what I wanted to build the P heads are perfect. I'm not running down the strip with it. I just wanted a good street car. I got what I wanted to build all day long.
@@StainlessTIG2 All I had to do to the P heads is fix the weak spot being in the springs.
If you think Frankenstein is slow, think again. I'm still in building stage you can say. I'm still running the 7.5 rear which won't hold up long. I have subframe connectors that need put in yet also.
My motor has a lot of torque. Having the V6 torque converter, trans and rear displaces the power in a different way.
It's named Frankenstein for a reason. Nothing in that car really belongs in it but it all works perfectly together.
I have GT40 explorer heads
(not p) and explorer intake with throttle body, everything else is stock. Major difference in power 😮
Got a set of home ported big valve e7's, a set of gt40 and gt40p's, and my Canfield 192cc's. All have homes save for the p heads. Got the Canfield's for $600 complete on CL. Rest came from cheap junkyard motors.
Yamaha V6 or V8 from an old Taurus SHO with some boost would be cool. Maybe even the 24 valve Duratec V6 if SHO engines are non-existent in the yard.
I still want to see the Volvo 4.4l version of the 60° v8. They're rated at 300hp and would be almost free in a junkyard. Lots of kung-fu noises.
This channel Rocks!
i built a 398w and put gt40 heads on it seems to run real good with plenty of power been wanting to put it on the Dino to see what it makes feels like 450 or 500 hp cant wait to see
let me know what it makes
@@richardholdener1727 plan on taking it to ford fest they will have a dino down there it's in the car a 71 Torino
Great video, the gt40 engines are gems
GT40 heads are really attractive for the price, but a good cylinder head combo doesn't move my T-Bird while the engine is sitting on the dyno. The promise of removing 60lbs entirely by switching to aluminum heads is pretty appealing. Throw the battery in the trunk, and I'm getting closer to 50/50 weight distribution.
Love a man that makes sense... Thanks Richard
Aluminum heads are defenitely worth the investment, specialy in the long run.
302 parts = 302 power.
My 1985 reverse rotation ski boat will need a freshening sooner or later. It was cursed with a 351W, the 350 Chevy was a $600 40hp upgrade back in the day (240hp vs 280hp). I bought the boat used in 1987 and had no choice. The GT40 heads seem like a solid cheap upgrade for an engine that only revs to about 4600rpm. An RV cam comparison would be helpful for us boat and truck guys.
step down to the 258 cam (either low or high lift version)
@@richardholdener1727 Thanks Richard.
@@OldDirtGuy by proclaiming your boat or motor or house or kid or wife or life us cursed, it will be...
"my children are destroyed for a Lack of knowledge" -Hosea 4:6
Gday. Mate ya videos are fantastic I went the lazy route a. Blueprint 306. They original stated 390 horse power and end up with 300 rwhp but I should have got the 347. Ohh well still tears the rear tyres up. Keep up the great. Videos. Blueprint. Heads. Seem to do ok. Also
Loving the"budget" builds. That's how we doos it. VW, Honda, whatever. You're the man. I think your new mane should be "Dr. Richard".
I was always told to get the lower intake from the exploder as well. Are they better than the factory mustang?
yes-and the upper for a 302
Just finished installing gt40p heads on my 95gt working out some bugs but excited about the first drive hopefully this weekend
How does it run did you use your stock rocker arms and push rods
@@sweetassugar2076 I haven't drove it I have one lifter making noise and broke a valve cover bolt off in the head 🙃 I'm running stud mount rockers with 1.6 rollers which caused my valve covers not clearing had to buy 1/2 inch valve cover spacers and 1/2 intake spacer
@@sweetassugar2076 hardened pushrods factory length
@@thekernall74 it’s always something LOL
Should make a video of the vortec head sbc with the 268 cam vs the gt40 sbf with the same cam.
I would like to see c9ve or D0ve heads on a built 460 vs trick flows or edelbrocks someday please 🙏
That's a lot of money. Hopefully someone loans him a set of those old 70's heads.
@@ruszko726 I have a set of d0ve heads he could use.
I have C8VE and C9VE heads I could loan
I concur with gt40 over gt40p.
I’d love to see similar tests using the same motor with a good set of early 351w heads from 1969 or 1970.
They flow pretty darn close to stock GT40 heads. I've heard from more than 1 source that the GT40 heads are based on the C9OE castings.
@@linctexpilot8337 are you talking stock 351W heads or worked over?
Bro I’ve seen a budget minded oem spec 351w build that used these p heads making over 100hp more than stock! They’re crazy for what they are
must have been ported
They used a mild cam roller conversion with lightly porting on the p heads, no valve job, and the Franken-intake from using a 351w lower ported to the 5.0 upper plenum. It was a Maf engine already and with a dyno tune he was pulling right about 110hp more than his base engine. Really neat build that still looks factory unless you look hard at it.
so the test was not just the head change-got it!
@@richardholdener1727 sorry I didn’t clarify it earlier 😂. It seemed like a really good build for what it was. Also I own a 93 bronco with the 351w that I will be building up on a budget somewhat soon just to improve the power:efficiency ratio because as of right now it sucks gas for barely any power. Looking to do the same build as that guy had done but I was wondering about if you had looked into Flotek heads before as they were about the same price as the GT40P heads but were aluminum heads and if I remember correctly I’m pretty sure aluminum heads allow a lower octane rating for higher compression ratios because of heat transfer efficiencies so I would like to do that instead but want some more input from others on how good they really are.
I meant same price as reworked gt40p heads but new and assembled flotek heads
Pertronix Pertronix 8561Ht-1 Black Ceramic plug boots fixed my header issues !
Thats one jagged power and torque curve. WTF!
Alloy head with big valves and stock pistons is a pain. You will have to message valve pockets.
In the process of adding ported gt40 heads, tfs1 cam and explorer intake
What are you using for push rods and rockers
@@sweetassugar2076 hardened stock length pushrods and the factory rockers for now
I just got a TFS stage 1 for my 351 and GT 40 heads going in my lowered 85 F 150 step side
I picked up a complete 96' explorer (GT40) engine and AOD-E for $200 a few weeks ago! Idk what I'm doing it yet haha
I clicked “Like” before the video even started.
nice
@@richardholdener1727 Looking forward to tomorrow’s video already. Great stuff as always Richard.
Should do a head test with a 351w
AFR heads for the win!!
All in the application. Full size car or truck/bronco /explorer vs Fox body/older light car swap, daily vs weekend warrior. Seems like you would not want any of the cams you run if your vehicle weighs over 4k and you actually want to drive it every day - you would gain little or even lose lower end and use more fuel. So without a " bigger than stock cam" why would you run massively great flowing heads? The GT40's are just right, even with porting for such an application.
the cam I tested here added power at every rpm-so they work on a 4,ooo pound vehicle too
@@richardholdener1727 Okay, I'd heard that " camming up" wouldn't help much for heavy vehicles with the 5.0 and watching your dyno runs seemed to confirm it - losing torq n hp below 3000 - where most of the driving occurs. I'll watch again. Thanks!
Would you mind trying truck-oriented combinations for the 5.0/5.8? On this power/torque graph, none of the rpms plotted are relevant for a truck for towing, pulling its own heavy weight and offroading, where a truck needs a lot of torque in the lower rpms. Maybe 1000 to 4000 rpm gains? Stock intake versus Edelbrock? Stock heads versus GT40(p), AFR 165? Sorry if I'm asking for a lot. OBS Ford Bronco here.
GT40/GT40P heads on a 5.8L/351W (1996 in my F250) with a stock '88-'92 Mustang HO cam and longtube Hedman Hedders makes HELLA towing power with 4.10 gears! People will think you have a 460 under the hood! However... the stock 351W/5.8 EFI intake stops at around 4000-4500 rpm TOPS! (dual 3" Y-into a single 3" exhaust)
A 408W stroker engine with GT40/GT40P heads (watch your compression ratio!) and a stock HO Mustang cam will make torque almost comparable to a 460. The stock EFI 5.8 intake will be 100% done by 4000 RPM, though.
@@linctexpilot8337 Go carbureted
When you pick up the GT's make sure to snag an Explorer upper intake, it's actually a little big for your application but everything else is even bigger.
@@johnjones928 I thought the explorer upper intakes weren’t as good as the older 5.0 intakes from bronco’s and such for flow? I know the Frank-intake idea where you use a 351 lower with 302 truck upper ported and matched is the best oem thing you can do but I didn’t think the explorer intake was better?
I'm still wanting to see a GT40 vs D0OE head comparison, those were the old school go to heads. I have 1 set on my truck, 1 set on the shelf, and a set of GT40P heads on a old explorer engine.
Hay Richard. On tonights live feed. Can you discuss oil control hacks. Re routing , plugs, and so on. In the last feed i mentioned rhoads lifter or bleed off lifters. Could you do some oil pressure test to see if these can be manipulated with oil pressure?
Already I have the '95 351 Windsor with the full ported GT40P heads, to finnish my homework I want to install the Z303 roller cam, and further like Richard put it boost, hahahaha (evil laugh)
No specific peak HP/TQ numbers for the Edelbrock or AFR-CNC heads ?
Sir Holdener, will there ever be any plans to do a comparison of the two best heads available, the TFS 11R vs an AFR Renegade on a stock bottom end 302????
love this idea!
The Kaase canted valve heads might be better and still fit a stock 4.0 bore. They're huge though, 240cc. Car craft did a test years ago with a huge hydraulic roller and made 520hp with a stock 5.0 short block at 7800rpm.
@@timothybayliss6680 those are a bit out of range of ‘most’ enthusiasts! I think the 11R and the AFR are easily the two biggest contenders for the average sbf guy looking to get a new set of heads wanting the most power they can get on a reasonable budget.
Tim-Must not have been on a stock short block-there is not enough P-V on a stock short block to make anywhere near 520 hp
11r vs Enforcer is not really a good comparison-better as cast vs as cast or cnc vs cnc
I run a set that I massaged on a 331 with AMF N41 cam. Runs like a scalded dog
GT40/P for a street car that you want some pep in it
I'd skip the eddie heads
AFR heads would be my go to. Almost 400hp (roughy, an extra 70hp) for an additional $800-900. If I get the Eddie heads for $1100, how much more would I have to spend on the short block to make 400hp? A set of pistons is about $600 to raise the compression and even then, it may not be enough.
So for a weekend warrior, AFR would be the best bet and they would still lend themselves nicely if I were to build a short block or go to a high comp, big bore 351w.
Hey Richard, I’ve watched almost all your videos, even ones with motors I don’t have….just because you’re one of the sharpest with your data and breakdowns on giving us the best comparisons!
Question, do have any cases where you compared an edelbrock or TFS intake with a professional products typhoon? I’m curious to know the difference. Edelbrock and TFS intakes (EFI) are around 1,000-1,300$ these days, and I picked up a polished Typhoon for $300.
the typhoon is an Edel copy
@@richardholdener1727 Thank you for the information sir.
Translation. Get cheap GT40 (P) heads and spend the money on Boost instead of aftermarket heads.
I think there's an unanswered question here. What do you get if you put a decent set of springs on the GT40p heads? You made note that your valve springs were a problem, and a set of springs is dirt cheap compared to even the Edelbrocks you used for your next stop up.
more rpm potential for GT40P, but not the power gains offered by the Edel or AFR
@@richardholdener1727 I see your point. If the port is already at max flow there's nothing to gain by having springs capable of supporting higher revs.
I have similar cam specs. But i have GT40 style intake and #24 injectors. Long tube headers too. Hoping for close to 275- 300 hp at crank. 🤞
L67 content soon?!? Building my motor now and wanting to see what’s best to do!
Pick and Pull is your friend.
My 93 bronco 5.0 weak as water 180 hp
My 89 f150 5.8 with the same heads and intake 225 hp damn it's strong
Buy a 5.8
Torque makes a huge difference
One thing that I haven't seen mentioned is the significant amount of weight off the front end of the car by going with a set of aluminum heads, plus the added chamber size consistency....I have read several times that the factory heads, especially the e7e heads have pretty significant differences from chamber to chamber. I have never cc'dd a set, but that is the 'rumor'. For my $$ I would buy a set of basic ally heads before putting a bunch of money into rehabbing the factory iron anchors. Plus they are much easier to port and polish
Yes Buddy
How about the cheaper Edelbrock heads and a XE274 cam?!? I’m thinking it would at least equal the power of the AFR165’s in this test! Cheaper heads and cam is probably the same cost as the XE264....cheaper combo, same power!
what Edel heads would make as much as AFR 165s?
@@richardholdener1727 i am referring to the Edelbrock heads in your test....you said they were much cheaper than the AFR’s used in the test. The Edelbrock heads made less power than the AFR’s using the same XE264 cam. Would the Edelbrock heads, used in the video, run with XE274 cam make equivalent power to the AFR’s, used in the video, with the XE264 cam, used in the video?
When do we get to see a 351w with gt40 heads and a turbo
Or a roots blower im going to do 351w worked over gt40s and a 174 or 671 blower
I have a 302 (327) with a 174 blower video and head swap video already up
@@richardholdener1727 yeah but 351 Windsor with GT40 heads 👀
Great stuff
Love your videos! I picked up a junkyard high milage (200k)1996 explore 5.0 with GT40 heads. I took a chance and thru it directly into my 65 Fastback with AOD trans and lost the EFI and carbed it, put all the vbelt stuff on it and man I am happy. It gets on it when I smash that throttle. Probably have about $400 total into that engine swap (engine, gaskets, and conv harmonic balancer). My question is should I have ported my gt40 heads on exhaust side? Would there be noticeable more power and how much difference? Also now days I want to keep good MPG since I daily drive my car. Should I swap out the cam for like a TFS1 came and springs? Would that lose more MPG then the explorer cam? Currently intake is Performer 289 and exhaust mainifods are stock 65 289 ones and 3.55 rear end. Im not trying to make a track car, just a daily driver with great MPG and some wallumpf!
a mild cam will help and won't hurt cruise mileage much if any
Stock GT40(P) heads? No spring upgrade? YEP!
😀
OBVIOUSLY NEEDS SPRINGS FOR THE CAM USED IN THE TEST-STOCK WAS NO PORTING
Good stuff good video! But what about compression? Gt40 has bigger chamber then gt40p or stock head has
THE EDELBROCK E STREET WORK GOOD BUT SO DO EARLY 351 W HEADS WITH A PORT JOB
What will ported 69 351W heads flow?
@@trailerparkcryptoking5213 about 190 to 210 depending on valve size
Awesome!
My plan is both power increase and weight loss, aluminum it is unless you've got something better
Thank you for sbf
Right on
So Richard.. how about this... street 302... ever thought about doing a "custom " cam and off the shelf cam comparison to eliminate all the hype?
Maybe some stock trick flows versus ported trick flows
CUSTOM DOESN'T MEAN ANYTHING OTHER THAN DIFFERENT-I COULD TEST A DIFFERENT SHELF CAM TOO-THERE IS NO MAGIC-ESPECIALLY AT THIS MILD POWER LEVEL
@@richardholdener1727 I edited the post Rich.. But yeah, I thought that was thw case exactly what you just said
@@19jody72 Id disagree....a custom cam from anyone but Comp Cams would be interesting. Let's say Comp vs. Bullet vs. Jones Cam Designs vs. somebody not commonly used.
@@hoost3056 hmm... you think? I don't see how a custom cam is going to be the magic on a street motor. I mean if you jack up the lift to 570-615 and a ton of duration.. but then you're going to beT the valve train up. When I say street, I'm Talking about get in it and drive across country chilling with the ac going
Custom cam doesnt mean ANYTHING, I have a “custom” Demo’s cam that has almost IDENTICAL specs as a lingenfelter “turbo” tpi cam, the only difference being the LSA. Very little difference i felt other than the idle characteristics
My 89 f150 4x4 short box has a mean little 93 5.0 cobra engine and ZF5 speed.
So the gt40p heads will give you 30 horsepower? And more torque on your daily driver.
yes
I have a 1989 crown Vic ltd with a 302 with 83k miles my motor idles high I’m guessing it needs a tune up for sitting so long it hesitates in gear Sometimes I’m trying to refurbish throw motor on stock block just rebuild all over it any advices or tips? I have videos up of me working on it slowly
SOUNDS LIKE VACUUM LEAK
Hmm... These graphs show GT40 heads and a turbo is the way to go unless all you want is high rpm. Then buy high flow aluminum and build the whole engine to handle 7500rpm or higher.
Me? I'm building a car to drive all over and tow a camper so I'm going with the GT40 and a turbo. My only choice rebuild my 302 or buy a junkyard 351. Although I'm leaning more towards keeping my 302, get the GT40 heads, put high quality valve springs in and rev that engine to 6500-7000. 450hp for cheap with a turbo 302 is sounding really good. Hopefully I can coax 400+ lb-ft out of it at 3000rpm. Big block power out of a tiny engine.
So there isnt a big power difference between the standard 40s and the Ps? Currently cleaning up the bowls on a set of GT40 heads now. Exhaust looks to need the most work lol.
Went with a super low buck combo, whole explorer 5.0, BBK LTs, lunati valve spring upgrade, 1.7 RRs and an E cam. Going into a 90 Tbird SC to be a drift learner car.
1972 I was a Jr. in High School, building the 15 foot B gas dragster that my uncle had sitting in the back yard, I also happen to live on the same street as the high school. Anyway, I give him a hundred bucks and I dragged it home. I did so coz I happen to have a 1966 289 A code engine that had rebuilt, w/ some DIY head work, a healthy solid lift cam w/c4 tranny. I didn't have $ for safety stuff to run it at Fremont drag strip ..only 3 miles away ..so I'd fire it up and my crew (friends) would follow me to the high school parking lot ..where I'd do burnouts w/old school M/T slicks on the weekends..
Tengo un v8 sn 1994 le puse de exolorer 1998 ahora q puedo hacer ya que el cuerpo de aceleración lo quiero más grande y que salga como el fox body
Thanks for doing these. Building up an 89 5.0 HO to put in a 79 Zephyr. What mods can be done to help below 5000rpm ?
dual plane, small cam, compression, good heads
@@richardholdener1727 Thanks.
Did you ever get valve float fixed to see what kind of games they would make what is the best spring so far for the gt40p heads to help fight valve float
I run comp 977 springs with crane roller rockers. No issues around 450-500whp with an ON3 turbo kit, launch control etc
Why is the 93 cobra and Lightning rated at 235-240 hp with non P heads??? Dont reg old Gt40 heads flow better than gt40P??
GT40 P heads make the same power
The GT40S and Ps will have 7/16 holes so if you plan on the JY swap to pay one price on a 351 plan for that.
good point
You'd be hard pressed to find a SBC 'junkyard' motor period over here when I last looked most guys that have a runner(probably suit rebuild would be upwards of $1500!) I was looking for good runner to put into my '69 while it's bottom end was in the machine shop.