16 Tooth Front Sprocket On The 2022 Kawasaki KLR650 Adventure
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- čas přidán 19. 05. 2022
- powersportsguide.com/motorcyc...
get your klr 650 parts @3D Cycle Parts
www.3dcycleparts.com/
get you some Full Throttle Junkie gear
full-throttle-junkie.creator-... - Auta a dopravní prostředky
Just swapped to a 16T front and it makes all the difference on the highway. A lot less buzzy and doesn’t really kill off-road capabilities either. Thanks for the video!
It's one of. The best mods you can do
I'm really wanting one-where did you get yours because everywhere I've looked online is 'out of stock'?
@@tomservo5347 3d cycle parts
@@FullThrottleJunkie Thanks!
How does it feel on twisty roads?
Very informative video about going to a taller front sprocket. I like that it made the bike's speedometer more accurate. I was also pleasantly surprised to see you can still pop a wheelie. Thanks for submitting this video.
Thank you for watching
Which is pretty funny considering the front sprocket has absolutely nothing to do with the speedometer drive.
@@GPz84
Incorrect.
On the third Gen your countershaft... shaft is where the speedometer picks up is signal. This is the shaft behind the front sprocket. So anything that changes after that shaft is not seen by the speedometer.
In factory trim, as in sprockets and tire sizes, at 65 indicated its actually going around 61 mph. Also your logging more distance than reality and showing better fuel economy than actual.
Doing the 16 tooth gets you almost corrected with the indicated speedometer. Don't the 16t front and also going up one metric size on the rear tire puts you dead nuts on GPS/ dash indicated.
Thanks man good vid was you answered some questions for me safe riding bro
You do good videos on the KLR.
Awesome informative vid! Think I'm also gonna go from a 15 to a 16 on my 22 Adventure.
Thank u sir, keep up the good work!
Thanks for watching
Hello, did you make the change? How does the bike feel?
@@TomySTS no, I stayed with a 15 front, 43 rear and new x ring chain.
@@1219magnum thank you.
Now, this is a mod I might be down with. Thanks!
FTJ says “I can’t get it up.” They make a pill for that. 😂
You've seen me "get it up". I have video proof 😂😂😂😂😂
like the tune on the entro.
Thanks for the info
Thanks for the great info
As someone with a Gen 2. Do the airbox mods, Uni Filter, different muffler and I'm sure you could install an O2 bung on a powerbomb header. Then get it tuned and I'm sure it'll rip. My Gen 2 rips great for a carbeurated bike but the fuel mileage is only okay for what it is. I definitely suggest getting a tune at the minimum
Appreciate the video! Any questions the pop in my head seems like you answer them.
Thanks for watching
@@FullThrottleJunkie what was the nut size for the front sprocket?
@@eveliogarcia9591 if I recall I believe it's a 27 mm
I went with the same front sproket. Get a little more chain noise without that rubber piece. Always keep it oiled doesn't seem to help. Small annoyance but worth the gains.
I didn't notice it
Noise went away after 100 miles or so. Must have been the paint or something
I went with 16 and 42 for I do and love it 👍
Yeah I'm still pretty happy with the 16 43
I was thinking of looking into the rear sprocket too. How’s the 42 vs 43, as far as you can remember?
Great info, thanks.
Thanks for watching
Do you like your windscreen blacked out like that? I ride a lot at night on Gravel, so… I think I would hate that. what was the DA (density altitude) on the day you tested and topped at 96mph? someone else topped 100 on the stock.
Good info. I got my 2022 Adventure a two months ago and really mostly use it on road and wish it had about 10 more hp. I'm a big man and need more grunt. Love the bike though.
you might want to look at exhaust and a power commander but its not going to give you much more power at the end of the day its a klr 650 witch is not known for power.
You might want to look at a bike with a bigger motor!
Does putting a 16T front sprocket on my 22 KLR make the shifting point in gears higher? Like I don't have to shift up and down so much in trail riding?
I'm thinking about doing this aswell, when I ride with my friends off road it would be nice to have a longer 1st gear, I feel like I'm always floating in between 1st and 2nd. Plus I hyw alot
It doesn't make much of a difference that I can tell but it is definitely worth it for the highway
Practice your clutch skills
What size socket do I need for the front sprocket? Just about to swap mine out fr 16t as well.
I have a question. Will a 16 tooth front gear mess up the reading of a gear indicator?? I’m guessing the gear indicator does computer wizards and shows what gear you are in because there is no actual indicator inside the gearbox.
Very informative. Not a useless 18 minutes of video. So how much of an effect does the sprocket change have on getting started from a stop and going slow in 1st gear chugging around on dirt roads? Which sprocket brand/model did you buy?
i got it from 3d cycle parts and the bike feels fine at lower speeds
Thanks. Valuable info.
Thanks for watching!!
@@FullThrottleJunkie I had heard that the 16t wouldn't fit in the 2022 without cutting some metal in the case, but I guess that is not true, and a 16t can be inserted without any problem ...
@@chadkline4268 I did not have to cut anything
I would have thought a bigger rear sprocket would be the preferred way to go. I haven’t researched much at all, I just know that it can go 70-75 before going into 5th gear without rapping her out too much and maybe its just me, but on dirt I can’t get the front tire off the ground without using the clutch (which I typically hate to do) again, I only have 125 miles on a gen 3 2024 KLR which is brand new also. Which… My bike for years has been a CR250R 2 stroke with reeds / carb upgrade / etc etc which rips but of course its apples and oranges. I need a rippem meter / etc etc on the KLr but waiting to break in motor / factory warranty before I do too much.
Hey brother, I have a 2022 klr as well. What is the part number for this sprocket?
Perhaps a stupid question...but where did you get the 16 tooth sprocket? ideally , and what everyone was asking for in the new generation KLR, but didn't get....was a 6th gear and a tachometer. The bike DEFINITELY needs a 6th gear. They run at 4,000 + RPM'S all the time! Too much. And no factory tach? What...were they thinking? How much of a cost savings could that possibly be?
What astounds me is your ability to wheelie that beast, I got one myself fully stock sprockets front and rear and I've yet to even get half an inch front tire up. Please show me your ways in this sorcery
🤣🤣 first gear clutch-ups it's very hard on the bike
@@FullThrottleJunkie oh I'm sure it is....that is wild
Clutch dumps, it stretches chains like your mad at them.
Hey brothers I’m going out of my mind on my 650klr it’s haven fuel pump problem and I’m stuck on the road and I’m pissed and need some help with this one please
what camera are you running on your bike? very informative video dude. I will be looking into doing this mod. I spend more time on as[halt than I do dirt.
I'm running the b2m dash cam
@@FullThrottleJunkie awesome bud I appreciate it. I'm looking at putting one on the klr for trips
That is a very good video regarding the difference between the 15 vs 16. You will definitely notice the difference in the taller gearing off road, and especially hilly terrain. 2nd gear might not be usable at all most times. I would also be interested in knowing what your fuel efficiency is with the 16T. My bet is, the combined will go down because you're now using bigger throttle to do the same acceleration as with the 15T. Thanks for posting this video.
I'm not very sure I think I would have better fuel mileage with lower rpm at any given speed as long as I'm not hammering the throttle every time I take off
@@FullThrottleJunkie yes as long as you’re not hammering the throttle. That’s hard to do! LOL!
@@bluezhawg2104 I'm researching the pros and cons of changing to a 16 tooth on a 2022 adventure. Please elaborate on your statements. Check engine light ?
@@bluezhawg2104 Thanks for the information.
A lot of people show little difference with fuel mileage
I noticed the nut on the countershaft is square on the end and looks like 27mm behind it. Is there a socket for that square nut because my 27mm socket wouldn't bite. Maybe need a square edge deep 27mm? What did you use?
I used a regular size deep socket the square edge you see in the video is for the speedometer that is now attached to the chain cover
16 tooth front 40 rear bring rpm down for highway speed and improve fuel economy but on dirt will notice lack of punch of bottom if open tap that's the comprise I prefer tall as possible gearing for road can take of in second gear no worries i
I did it and its the cheapest mod possible. Perfect for 72 mph cruising. No need to slip clutch on take off. 2-6th not radically changed. Ive even taken off in 2nd by accident. Do it.
Best comment 👌
But won't doing this INSTANTLY void your warranty?
please test a 17 tooth.
I have been on one for about 5 years now.
like loosing 1st. and getting 6th.
can downshift from 80 and not redline.
I run a shinko705 90 series.
it's taller and raises the gearing a little more even.
awesome.
I'll have to try to get my hands on one and see how it does
Where does one get 17 tooth for 2022 klr?! Part number ..
i would be interested in what your gas mileage is after a few fill ups. i have been averaging around 51-53 mils per gal driving both hwy and back roads at 65 -70 mph going to work apox 20 mils one way. been filling up every 2.5 weeks about $13.50 fill up, at 1 line not blinking. also using premium gas. EDIT: forgot to say i have tusk large rackless bags, with EDC items, my lunch box, tank bag with bladder, and HT heavy bottom plate,and crash bars.
I'll have to fill it up one day and go out for a ride and ride it normally and see what my fuel mileage is
@@FullThrottleJunkie just an update just hot 3k miles fully loaded with all my camping gear went on the sooner adv ride this last week end drove a total 356 miles used around 3/4 tank approx 270 lbs on the bike that's running a single track and tons of sand gravel roads so on off gas a lot I am very happy with the mileage I am getting. Also the motz adv tire is amazing! Cheers
I was told you have to change the chain if you change the sprocket. What do you think? Doesnt make sense to me but what do I know.
That's a very good question but there is enough adjustment in the rear to accommodate for the different size and sprockets so you can use the stock chain with no problem
Nope. You're just adding one tooth. If you were drastically changing the rear sprocket maybe so, but the KLR has so much rear arm swing the chain is pretty long with plenty of adjustment.
Bit annoyed that it's not coming to the UK
Hopefully they'll revise the emissions again later on and then bring it to the UK I believe that's why it's not there
any real difference in vibration in the bars at highway speeds with the sprocket change?
Not that I can tell
@@FullThrottleJunkie thanks for the Intel, one of the most informative videos I've watched on the KLR. I keep getting intrigued by this bike.
@@Gravelcruiser it really is a great bike
Love the vid... I did something similar....I wanna rock 18/38 on my bike
Don't you need a ECU flash with new loads? It would be interesting to see a 685cc KLR with a 17t and dyno ECU flash. Came back to watch again. I'm doing the same thing.
doesn't need to be flashed the bike is just fine with the stock setup with the 16 tooth
@@FullThrottleJunkie from what I understand, all fuel injected bikes are made to run extra lean to pass the Euro5 emission standards, and such bikes experience major improvements in performance if dyno tuned with an ECU flash. But that doesn't seem to be available for KLRs yet. I'd expect at least 10% more power. I just saw another video with a 40/16 setup, that states 4250rpm at 80mph (should be the same as a 17t setup). And that would be really nice and comfortable.
The way the ECU works is that for every monitored condition, the fuel/air ratio is looked up in the computer memory. So, if you change sprockets to a 16t, as you say, you will lose lower end torque but get better top speeds at lower RPMs. But if you dyno tune it and remap it, you can change the appropriate fuel/air ratios to accommodate the changes in torque and high speeds so that the ratios are tuned to the new gearing. Else, you are using a map for the old gearing with new gearing. And that won't be optimal.
The reason it is important to KLR owners is because the KLR is really borderline for long highway tours in stock form. Many interstate speed limits are now 80mph.
I just found this for KLRs, Magnum Tuning ECU, and maybe there are others:
This Kawasaki KLR 650 Camo ECU chip is an in-line tuning device that recalibrates the fuel map settings for improved HP, torque, throttle sensitivity and pep. Our ECU chip works great with other aftermarket upgrades including exhaust, intake, cam and performance ignition.
Claims
17% extra Horsepower and Torque
22% faster acceleration throughout the RPM range
6% fuel mileage improvement
Higher top end speed (until redline limit)
Improved throttle response w/o flat spots
@@TheJoeinwv
This is what I learned, and it doesn't seem unreal:
This Kawasaki KLR 650 Camo ECU chip is an in-line tuning device that recalibrates the fuel map settings for improved HP, torque, throttle sensitivity and pep. Our ECU chip works great with other aftermarket upgrades including exhaust, intake, cam and performance ignition.
Claims
17% extra Horsepower and Torque
22% faster acceleration throughout the RPM range
6% fuel mileage improvement
Higher top end speed (until redline limit)
Improved throttle response w/o flat spots
Info I gathered in the last 2 days concerning the KLR EFI and what performance gains may be extracted from it which seem to indicate 6% is easy+simple.
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Bad news: DynoJet's Power Commander KLR is better in the mid range while maintaining smooth control for the slow stuff. Looking at the maps, they achieved this by bumping up the timing advance values in the mid range. They made minimal changes to the fuel map. I'd compare the change to hitting the 'sport' button in your car or tow/pull button in your truck.
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Power Commander
I don’t have one but those that have tried them on bikes in general say 1 to 2% increase. So .4 to 1.8 horsepower. Barely noticeable. The big bore kits seem to be the only thing that pumps up a KLR.
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I have two 2022 KLR’s both with power commanders. One has a Yoshi slip on and one has stock exhaust. Big improvement on both bikes but the Yoshi in my opinion gained at least 10% more. Much more throttle response and the added ability to pass cars on highway by just rolling the throttle instead of a requiring a down shift. Also a noticeable reduction in engine vibration at 60 to 70 mph. The engine just runs smoother. Definitely worth the money especially if your already adding a slip on exhaust.
If you add the PC to your stock exhaust it comes with a map ready for that exhaust. You’ll notice a quicker throttle response and a bit more horsepower. Add a slip on with the PC and the improvement over stock is significant. Hopefully soon, PC will have a map specifically tuned for a few different slip on exhaust options. Either way, the PC is a great upgrade.
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Re-Flash The ECU Or Aftermarket Tuner
Most modern bikes have an engine control unit (ECU), a small computer chip that controls (and much of the time strangles) various aspects of the bike’s performance. That chip is factory-programmed to comply with emissions and fuel requirements, but lucky for you, it can be remapped/re-flashed to uncork performance. An ECU (re)flash involves changing the stock onboard programming with a new tune usually resulting in good power gains (depending on your goals). But if you’re always changing parts on the bike (exhaust pipes, etc.), an ECU flash is probably not for you. Also, if done incorrectly your bike will suffer, so make sure the grease monkey doing the work knows the lay of the land.
Or you can go with an aftermarket fuel/power tuner (like a Power Commander or Vance & Hines FuelPak) to adjust those stock settings. Broadly speaking, tuners come in two flavors: plug-and-play units designed for stock or lightly modified engines, and those that can be programmed to add more fuel or air and tweak other settings at different ranges to make more power to meet a highly tuned engine's needs. If you've slapped on a new pipe, you'll definitely want a tuner to get fuel mapping brought into line. These units can be a much simpler and more flexible deal than a re-flash.
Result: Unless you're piggybacking with some other change, power gains won't be much, but they'll improve overall rideability.
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First, let me start by saying that the KLR EFI system is a version of 'speed density'. This means it monitors 'air density' to make changes to the fuel mapping using a MAP sensor and a 'narrow band' O2. The factory table is very narrow. It then uses the O2 reading to determine if the map/specified injector duty cycle is sufficient to keep the AFR (air/fuel ratio) within range (again, the factory O2 range is very narrow). It compensates for 'density' changes, ie; altitude and temperature.
The system has no way of knowing what the 'mass air flow' actually is at any given point. When a free flowing intake and/or exhaust is installed that creates a 'mass flow' increase. Same thing if one installs a 685 kit for example.
Simply bolting on 'performance parts' in general does NOT change the 'density' of the incoming air. Therefore the system has very little information to go on for making adjustments; other than it will see that the O2 reading is out of parameters for the corresponding density reading. The table the factory loads into the computer is so narrow it cannot produce appropriate compensation. Likewise, the factory has also specified rather 'lean' algorithms in regards to AFR. This means not only does the factory computer programming not have the ability (narrow band) to make enough correction but it doesn't see the 'need' to do it. Running that lean isn't going to help power output.
The Power Commander gives full control over the fuel map and duty cycle (this is key) of the injector. One could literally run the injector at 100% duty cycle but it's not recommended. It would be more practical to upgrade the size of the injector at that point to maintain efficiency and longevity.
Dynojet isn't in the business of 'making maps' for every bike and every combination. That's precisely why they have shops designated as "tuners" who employ a dynamometer. Dynojets' market is 'massive' in comparison to JD or most any others.
What the 'autotune' (wideband) does is allow an end user to apply all of the same technology that would be used at the dyno. It tunes your engine in real time and has the ability to 'fully' compensate for any performance mods. It allows the user to specify what AFR and at what RPM/throttle position you want it. It's basically the equivalent of having a "factory" programming process right on the bike. It's a 'piggyback' system which means it intercepts the OEM input signal and then 'modifies' it to meet the parameters set forth in the map table. It's basically a constant feedback loop that allows full control over fuel and timing. Once the autotune makes a recommend table the user is able to go in and 'accept' the suggested 'trims' and/or modify them. Basically, the sky is the limit (or injector size/duty cycle) capabilities.
With the setup that Willie is running and some seat time running the autotune through it's paces accepting trims (it takes many rides at different loads) to achieve, I firmly believe +10hp is not out of the question. Based on what I've seen in other applications. The big single thumper is going to benefit greatly from some ignition timing advancement because it needs more time to build cylinder pressure during the compression stroke.
I'll reiterate, the KLR is NOT highly tuned from the factory; if anything it's DE-TUNED. This got a little long but there's a lot to cover. Bottom line, the PC runs circles around any other tuning module on the market in multiple ways.
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I am glad the PC+AT runs circles around simple fuel tuners. And it should because it is 3.5x the price of the JD Jetting Fuel Tuner.
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JDKAX04 - Kawasaki KLR650 (22) EFI
$251.95
Easy install on bike
Detailed instructions
Change settings anytime
Dyno and field tested, the Power Surge 6X will allow correction for humidity, temperature, air pressure, along with race fuels and motor modifications. The tuner adjusts in a matter of seconds in 6 zones, including an accelerator pump feature for more throttle snap response. The tuner can add or subtract fuel from the injection system. Conditions like rich or lean running, and stalling from flame-out at low revs can be corrected. The Power Surge 6X stays mounted on the motorcycle or quad.
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33->39HP with the JD part.
You'll need Snorkel delete and I believe a Uni Filter, plus your Delkevic exhaust to get to these results.
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I am surprised that it is nearly impossible to find Gen3 KLR owners that have posted info on using a high performance air filter + exhaust with a quality EFI tuner or dyno tune, with or without 16t/17t. The KLR is right on the edge of being a very highway capable/comfortable with proper gearing (17t, or 16t/40t = 800 lower RPMs at highway speeds) and the potential extra power these things can provide (6hp = 20%). A BMW 310 GS will max out at 90mph, same as a KLR, while getting nearly double the fuel mileage.
Is there any way to calibrate the speedometer?
I don't know of anyways right now. But the sprocket did seem to help get the speed to match the GPS speed
@@FullThrottleJunkie I saw, seems to make the mod worth it just for that, tbh.
Ps. I LIKE THE STOCK FOOTPEGS. So there.
I'm not a fan of them
Ps were is the odometer camara
what?
130-90 rear tire works the same
For some reason my 22 klr seems to run better, quieter etc on regular gas.ive ran super,mid grade and regular in it and the motor SEEMS to like regular the best.also didn't seem to get any better milage on higher octane gas.Im kinda thinking it's all in my head but I swear it seems less rattley,if that's a word, and might even pull a liiiitle bit harder on regular.again, it's very possible that it's just me.either way I'm going to run it because the higher octane gas definitely doesn't make it run any better.just wondering if anyone else noticed anything like that.
On my ‘07 running premium gas was the only way to keep the pilot jet from clogging up. I was having to clean it 2-3 times per year. Never noticed any performance changes though.
Wasting your money buying anything about 87 octane which the bike was made for. Unless your bike is pinging the higher octane will do nothing for you but take your money.
czcams.com/video/z_IVvVz4SSg/video.html
Run nothing but ethanol free regular in my 22 Gen 3 and get 55 to 58mpg.
With computer in Gen 3, just used the 87, the higher octane will not help the bike with a computer
Sup Junkie
hello hello
Good video but shows its barely worth it, 200rpm at 75mph difference really is minimal. Add to that no top end speed increase.
It really seems to work best at around 65 mph. That's the sweet spot that drops revs about 500 and makes the bike much less 'buzzy' at normal cruise speed at least what I've seen in other videos.
1 tooth more on front sprocket will be a very subtle difference -ran my xt 500 in the 80's with a 17 front and 39 back and was a dream on freeways,keep a second back wheel with a 48 tooth sprocket for off road and you are sorted.
Switching to the 16 tooth puts the engine off peak torque at cruising speed. For me it was horrible and took more throttle than would otherwise be required to accelerate. Plus it sucks at low speed off-road work. I cannot recommend the 16 tooth for those using the KLR as it is designed. Your video proves it hurts low speed performance.
I haven't noticed any issues with it at low speeds I've had it offered several times since I've made this video and have not had a single problem once
@@FullThrottleJunkie Of course you didn’t notice that is what we call modification bias / confirmation. In the rural west where we have steep terrain the stock gearing works best. The fact your wheelie attempts failed with the 16 provided low speed degradation of performance. As with most mods we sacrifice in one area for gains elsewhere.
@@bluezhawg2104 I do a lot of highway riding between 80 and 85 miles an hour it is brought down the engine RPM and doesn't feel like it is struggling anymore. I've also had the bike off-road the area I'm in it is mainly flat with a few hills here and there. Haven't had any issues from changing the sprocket. And the failed wheelie attempt was on myself and not the bike I have gotten a lot better with the wheelies if you go check out my Aprilia Touareg video in the intro you can see a proper KLR wheelie with the 16 tooth front sprocket.
U lying?
About what?
He's lying 🤥 about the speed on a 2022 klr 650 . Stop trying to boost your channel. Don't believe him klr owner gen1
What speed am I lying about? I had the GPS speed
Don't trust a man with such a hairstyle....
What STUPID music.
What a stupid name
Useless nearly 18 minutes of video.
Thanks for watching 🤣
@Raymond Stafferton . And what do you do loser?
One interesting thought, and one reason it's probably so comfortable at 5100 RPM or around 70mph, if you look up a dyno chart, the torque and HP curves cross at 5100 RPM. Above that, and you are losing torque quick and relying on RPM's to power you along, whereas from 4500-5100 RPM you're cruising in peak torque output. And anywhere from 2700-5100 RPM you have good torque. I may have to have a 16T on hand for times where I decide to do more of a road trip vs dirt and road. $12 for a sprocket is a real simple and cheap route to better HWY manners. I can tell you this, the altitude im at 4500' must rob me of tons of power, there's no way I could wheelie and shift to second and still be on the rear wheel!