Yes what you have is the factory retarted timing chain, on the new one you want the mark thats lined up with the key way on the crank. Also 88 and up fuel injected timing chains are all straight up
Theres a few issues here you might have if you arent having them already. It has been hard for me to find a double roller set that works correctly with that two piece eccentric (still looking). It appears that the set you used had a flush face which means when you torqued that cam bolt you now have a gap between the inner eccentric and outer eccentric ring so i hope you loctited the hell out of that bolt. The outer ring of the eccentric is supposed to spin freely when you torque the cam bolt. The other issue is that oil slinger. I have seen alot of pictures of those getting destroyed by the double rollers because the chains are wider than the old ones and at higher rpm’s that slinger can flex and make contact with the chain. Please chime in if you have not had any problems. Im trying to decide what to do with my motor
with a double roller you eliminate the slinger, it was used for the nylon chains. EFI engines did not come with the slinger. Supposedly the 80's timing covers ET6* were cast both ways with a ledge and without. The EFI cover did not have that ledge either.
The way he installed it, the inner eccentric actually will work as a crushed Lock washer :) so he is golden. No concerns. But a mechanical fuel pump may not work well.
![1979 Lincoln Continental Timing Chain Service [STEPS DOCUMENTED | FULL VIDEO!!]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/woX7wkhjIfY/mqdefault.jpg)
![1979 Lincoln Continental Timing Chain Service [STEPS DOCUMENTED | FULL VIDEO!!]](/img/tr.png)
Get you a 1970 351 Cleveland timing set , it will set timing correctly
so did you notice a performance improvement ?
Yes what you have is the factory retarted timing chain, on the new one you want the mark thats lined up with the key way on the crank. Also 88 and up fuel injected timing chains are all straight up
Also, changing the timing chain to straight doesn't add tork, it just moves the tork lower in the rpm range, your dis is what adds more
Hey I think your supposed to leave that washer off on the crank , it will rub
Theres a few issues here you might have if you arent having them already. It has been hard for me to find a double roller set that works correctly with that two piece eccentric (still looking). It appears that the set you used had a flush face which means when you torqued that cam bolt you now have a gap between the inner eccentric and outer eccentric ring so i hope you loctited the hell out of that bolt. The outer ring of the eccentric is supposed to spin freely when you torque the cam bolt. The other issue is that oil slinger. I have seen alot of pictures of those getting destroyed by the double rollers because the chains are wider than the old ones and at higher rpm’s that slinger can flex and make contact with the chain. Please chime in if you have not had any problems. Im trying to decide what to do with my motor
I’ve had no issues, but not many miles on it yet.
with a double roller you eliminate the slinger, it was used for the nylon chains. EFI engines did not come with the slinger. Supposedly the 80's timing covers ET6* were cast both ways with a ledge and without. The EFI cover did not have that ledge either.
The way he installed it, the inner eccentric actually will work as a crushed Lock washer :) so he is golden. No concerns. But a mechanical fuel pump may not work well.
does lining up the cam dot at 6 o clock and the crankshaft at 12 automatically put you at TDC on the compression strock?
How much do you need to adjust the distributor
good job of leaving out the assembly...
left out alot of information