Kickback Machine on a Table Saw! See Real Kickback in Action!
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- čas přidán 20. 08. 2024
- WARNING: DO NOT TRY THIS AT HOME!
Watch a REAL Kickback Demonstration and Learn How to Avoid it on Your Table Saw.
Prevent Kickback today with the GRR-RIPPER: www.microjig.c...
This is a Kickback Public Service Announcement. This video explains the dangers of kickback and lots of good information about table saw safety. #NOPUSHSTICKS
For more information about table saw safety, visit www.Microjig.com.
GRR-RIPPER VIDEO: • Save Your Fingers From...
GRR-RIPPER: www.microjig.c...
You do have to spend some time setting the saw up... blade, fence, etc. But once done, the saw is great. Fairly compact which is Nice czcams.com/users/postUgkxXh-4_3-ZT1fFWP91ZV7iVqzElr0lEb-a I did get an Incra Miter Gauge which takes some setup as well. The stock miter gauge can be adjusted in the miter slot with a little painter's tape... this tightens up the side to side play a lot.
Yep, I've picked up a finger laying on the floor from a kickback, wasn't my finger fortunately. It belonged to a guy who we affectionately called Frodo afterwards. Also been hit by a kickback, it usually leaves a mark or two.
I was waiting for Steve ramsey to do one of his intros and get cut off with the microjig. When he said 'if you don't know what a grrripper is..' I thought that was going to be the moment. Shout out to Steve for making the grrripper known to weekend woodworkers everywhere!
I watch Steve too. He doesn't do the microjig intro anymore.
@@nathanrocks2562 I know he stopped it a long time ago but he's still the first one I think when I here 'microjig!'
Yeah sponsoring Steve was the smartest marketing Microjig ever did
His intros were the best. I occasionally go back and watch the beginning of some of his old videos just for the micro jig intros that make me laugh.....that's where I'm headed now that I think about it.
Warning: Pieces of wood were injured during this demo. LOL
I liked the slo mo at the end with the music.
Mutilating dead tree carcasses!
I learned the hard way about kickback. It felt like Myke Tyson saying hello to you
That last half of the video....a masterpiece. Easily a contender for some kind of academy award!
Seriously, though, I should buy a Grrr-riper, but I need a table saw first.
Maybe do another version of this video buy use Symphony of Destruction instead?
Hahahaha
"I'm just making a quick cut. Nothing has ever happened."
@Ahmed FaheemAhmed I think he was quoting the infamous last words of a man who just suffered kick back
You're totally right... This is attitude is the cause of most injuries
@@70mujtaba .
Said my cousin, remodeler of 15 years, who cut his thumb off on his last cut of the day.
@@Barlos69 please
O
I've had two memorable kickback incidents. The first one just scared me a bit but didnt' do any damage. The second one tore a 3" hole in my leather apron. Now I use Jessem rollers and stand at the side of the table whenever possible.
You're very lucky because my husband got his thumb cut off when it happened to him. You guys all need to be extremely careful!!
Only 2?
That slow motion footage with that music was video production gold!
Thanks for the vid!! I watch a lot of accident videos. Not because I’m sadistic; because I don’t want to make the same mistakes.
This is a brilliant and informative video. Kudos for creating a safe way to demonstrate something so crucial to understanding and using the table saw.
Excellent video! And you have managed to be both self-serving and public-serving at the same time, and no hard feelings! Got my sub immediately for the thoughtfully designed demonstration.
I was spared the experience of one particular kickback event. Came to work to find glass littering my bench. Newest guy in the shop had been ripping mahogany for door panels on the Yates. Only 5hp, but they were good horses. A 16"x 24" piece of 8/4 escaped his control, climbed the blade and exited the machine room through the window and into the bench room. He was shaken, but not injured. I kept the plywood cart parked as a shield after that, until we rearranged. Plywood storage rack took the place of the window.
There is an old saying that to be successful, you need to help others be successful. This is our goal.
I own the mircojig gripper. Its the absolute best push stick Ive ever owned.
I was hit by a kickback in high school using a commercial size table saw and was struck by the 2” wide peace of wood. It happened so fast. I was hit in the hip. It hurt but I wasn’t injured but it messed me up psychologically. It took me a while to get my confidence back to use the table saw again. All woodworking machinery and power tools should be respected and used properly or they will bite you.
I do not think the flying wood is the main danger but those keeping their hands on the wood close to the blade is he biggest danger of all.
@@bighands69 agreed but getting hit by a flying peace of wood is no joke. I’ve seen wood penetrate a cinder block wall.
@@ScottyLo
The flying wood requires a lot of force and direction and I feel it is a lower probability. I think the main danger is when the wood kicks and your hand gets drawn into the blade presents a much higher danger.
@@bighands69 agreed. Any accident with power tools has the potential for a really bad outcome.
WOW! What a great example of how and why kickback occurs. It shows the physics really well, and the importance of good controls. One issue I saw was your riving knife was much further away from the blade than I was taught, which would mean that in some of your examples the kick back chances would have been reduced (but maybe not entirely eliminated). Great demo anyway.
I bought the gripper when I first bought my tablesaw and am glad I did it works awsome one of my best purchases.
Excellent safety video - very thought provoking
I learn the hard way. First and last time, I had a chunk of walnut hit my knuckle so hard I instantly felt it in my elbow ,and for days later.
The blade guard, riving knife, and feather board work together to prevent kickback on my saw.
@Sparta 16 yes. But i dont tapered or dado cuts. I use kreg screws.
You can't use a blade guard to do a dado or non through cut
@Alan d'Eon what brand is that because i might actually get one if it wasn't in the way all the time
I have always imagined a good mounting for a blade guard would be from the ceiling. A sturdy truss slanting up and away in the outfeed direction, and hinged to fold up out of the way at times.
I was thinking of producing a plexiglass box with an infeed slot to peotect me from kickback and my hand getting too close. I want to.keep my fingers.
At the shop in my school once kickback occurred and it shot a piece to the brick wall, exploded and a piece of shrapnel broke my classmate's arm. The student was about 30 feet away from the table saw.
Holy crap.
My dad (RIP) had cut his hand on a table saw while trying to finish some speaker boxes he was making.
Visionaire TV Rest in peace for your dad.
@dafuqawew no he died of cancer.
God's good rest to your father.
I have this and it’s great. I’ve also reduced my chances of getting hurt by dropping $5000 on a new sawstop.
За пилой ставится расклинивающий нож. На нём может крепиться горизонтальный прижим и проблема будет решена.
I won't claim to know more than this guy, because I don't. But I fail to see how a piece of wood would hit the rear of the blade with a riving knife in place. Sadly this isn't explained or shown in the video.
Seeing how it's basically an ad for the Gripper, a viewer is left to assume that the riving knife wasn't demonstrated because it severly lessens the need for their tool.
True, same reason they didn't show the proper way to use a push stick
It is reckless and irresponsible to even demonstrate any improper use of any machine.
Check the kickback video by thintz12 where his push block gets pulled into the blade. I would not like to have my hand straight over the blade, or lean over the blade at any time. With two push sticks this never happens. I know it's an ad, but I also agree that trying to scare people by producing kickbacks with a single and improperly used pushstick and no rivingknife (standard on all tablesaws you can buy today) is bordering on safety misinformation.
@
OmikronWeapon I am far older then that guy... and I work my whole life in Woodworking... and I agree with you fully. Normally you would use a riving knife whenever you cut off a piece like shown, only if you not cut off something but just make some cut like with dado blades for some insert you would not use a riving knife. And then even without riving knife as soon as you not make a cut off... you have the whole board to push down.
It seems like a sophisticated ad for the Gripper.
That being said, I think a tool like the Gripper is probably better... then a push stick. There are many things that can happen with those... but you also not need to spend money on a push stick like that... one is easily made from some wood and a rubber-like material.
If the workpiece is shorter than the blade diameter, it's separated before it touches the riving knife so the side of the teeth can pick it up...or is my brain twisted now? 😂
Excellent demonstration of kickback. The part with the slow mo and opera made me think of the astronauts floating around in zero gravity in the space station.
Love the Mozart at the end. You’re my kind of guy… for both demo and the musical taste.
Those push sticks are crap anyway, we make our own out of 3/4"plywood, it's somewhat of a half oval 8" long straight cut on the bottom with a 1/4" notch cut out on the end to push material thru, as long as the material rides flush against the fence you'll never get a kick back.
I can see myself getting hit with the flying blocks at slow motion with Opera Background music. Hahaha.
Big help with this man...😊
Love the opera music at the end! Lol my favorite push back is the one where the cut off piece bounces back and the blade throws it again!
IMGO a gripper is one of the best gifts you can give a new woodworker!
Company that makes the gripper is showing me why it’s so important that I use it. Not biased at all.
Subbed for the music alone 😂. Great demo of something that can go wrong very quickly.
hehe finally a vidio where you really see what can go wrong. am a carpenter myself. you went to school yourself for a few years to learn the trade, and how to work with different machines, and how to use and safety. now see videos of what you can do with a table saw. everyone now thinks they are a carpenter and I can make anything, but scared how they deal with it just dangerous. without a riving knife, and guard. you have shown nicely what is going wrong. just got goosebumps. would also like a video about safety and dangers of the table saw, because see none in Dutch. could i use your piece in it. let me know a comment. regards johny van assouw
I have lots of dangerous saws but table saws scare the living fuck out of me. I keep thinking about buying one but so far i've not had the balls to get one. Never used one so it would be baptism by fire.
In my experience it is the trained professionals who remove the safety equipment.
I am planning to make a DIY table saw. Thanks you showed us of the dangers of using table saws. I will try to make a DIY push block too.
just wondering if you're still in one piece these days
Thanks for the Mozart. :)
Listening to Opera music and kick backs video is like watching car crashes while drink beer on busy highway
I suffered kickback once. Was cutting MDF and my splitter had nudged to the side unbeknownst to me. Mid cut it hits the splitter stopping me progressing. I swear, take one hand off to hit the estop. Blink. And the MDF is just GONE. Was like warp speed meets Houdini. Luckily I had early adopted standing to the side, never in line with the main forces. Would have left quite the bruise that’s for damn sure. Lesson I learned, check all safety devices before any first use of the day at least.
The most notorious thing to actually kickback is plywood... I'll never forget using a large table saw in shop class in high school that thing shot back like a missile into my upper thigh I had a bruise about 8" x 4" for a few months..I was cutting a piece of plywood Pretty large piece.. Never had trouble with regular wood I knew better not to cut where there's a knot
I do own a GRR RIPPER but if I had to make more than one of those parts I’d change it up. Rip a long board first then crosscut the blocks
Exactly. The cut they're doing is by far the most likely to cause kickback. It's an unsafe cut. Use a miter saw or a crosscutting jig with clamps and the issue goes away.
@@mychalevenson7710 agreed
Why not promote a guard rather than a gripper?
Funny, I have been looking at table saws for just some DIY home improvement at home. There is ZERO warning label or signage about the importance of kickback by the table saws. Not that we need to make yet another law but Lowes, Home Depot and other big boxes stores know the risks and know that aggressive lawyers will sue if possible. Why not do both the honest right thing and educate the buys a bit (it is the DIYers that have the most risk) and insulate themselves from potential lawsuits at the same time???
because you're supposed to read manual before using the equipment? That solves lawyers and extra effort of training staff, putting up warnings for every machine etc.
I am not sure where you live. But my table saw can pre-installed with a knife, blade top guard, a moveable featherboard, a angle guide, and two plastic push sticks.
It took a lot of work to remove some of the stupider safety features and it was darn near impossible to take the knife off with out taking the machine apart (I left it on - on purpose).
Most major diy brands assume your stupid and will not read the manual. It helps keep lawyer costs down. Lol
Dewalt have an entire page on kickback in the manual.
Diyers have no business using a table saw
@@scotland1380 I think (especially during the pandemic) a lot of people took up woodworking as a hobby. Everyone has to start somewhere.
At least someone conducted a more control and safe kickback demonstration than that jackass that pushed a piece of wood through with his hand less than an inch from the blade.
I just got mine, there's no way I'm risking seriously injury for what's supposed to be a fun hobby.
But one isn't enough, I'm getting another one. Unless you're cutting very short stock, get yourself 2.
I once lost a thumb nail and took a chunk of 1x4 to the chest getting in a hurry....take your time and be safe
I think the Slow Mo Guys have ruined me.
I hear super slow motion and I think of 2500+ FPS
Yes, i was dissapointed.
Circumference 10 x 3.14 = 31.4 inches. At 4000 rpm x31.4 x 60 minutes it makes for about 119 mph
I always use an extra long straight screwdriver , never any issues as long as you use some muscle on it
These types of push sticks are designed to be used in pairs really. Doing that it is safer than using a push block/gripper that encourages you to take off the blade guard completely.
A gripper without a blade guard is safer than push sticks with a blade guard
@@lancedamask9728 if passing your hand and arm over an unguarded blade feels safe for you, knock yourself out....it’s your workshop :)
@@amiddled the gripper is a blade guard used properly
Happened me cutting a 9mm sheet of osb, kicked back broke my hand an left a massive bruise on my stomach. An that’s me using one everyday for for 10+ years.
I was fortunate enough to learn about kickback cutting some hard foam. Thank God it wasn't wood.
I want to see the normal speed. It's kind of difficult to tell how fast it happens in slow motion.
Good job. I was able to make one automatic that works on 12 volts
My wood shop teacher was an alcoholic from the 80s when my parents had him until the 90s when i had him.....he got cut on the table saw while he was drunk....he went to florida after he got fired and drank himself to death after 10 yrs
Could you please conduct the same experiments with riving knife?
i’m beginner and i see that obvious because the wood cuts are small, but if they were long that shouldn’t happen and if you want it small just cut it to the side and it’s even faster. That’s what I’m thinking but that I see in small cuts like dangerous
David, it is true that smaller parts can kick back more easily, but longer boards still can. I have seen longer boards launched like spears. If a longer board drifts into the blade as shown in this video, it can kick back and then it can ride on top of the blade, increasing in speed as the blade propels it like a baseball pitching machine.
The GRR-RIPPER helps prevent these sorts of kick back by holding both halves of the part parallel to the blade so they are less likely to catch on the rear teeth of the blade. With longer stock, you use two GRR-RIPPERs, one in each hand, in a hand-over-hand motion to control the stock.
The bonus is you also get better quality cuts.
Don't let the board get away from you. I've stopped a blade a time or two. Also don't stand in the path behind the saw between the fence and the blade. Never walk behind someone cutting on a table saw, always walk is front of the saw.
I got hit by kickback in the chest that hurts.. so fast I dint have time to move .. well the ribin knife got lose it fell down that’s why .. I upgrade to quality table saw .. it’s important to have quality table saws
Just use the blade guard instead of fancy push blocks which force you to remove the blade guard for them to function.
You can do you. If you like your blade guard, use it.
The blade guard must be removed for groove and dado cuts, and any cuts under about 1" wide. It also blocks my view of where the cutting is actually happening. Finally, blade guards do nothing to prevent the kickback that can happen when the stock engages the rear teeth of the blade. The GRR-RIPPER does.
I'm here for the opera!
I purchased a Microjig right after my accident when cutting 1/4" plywood. Shot right into my gut creating a 9-10" wound. Not fund. It going on two weeks and it is still not healed completely.
man my uncle had such an incident 2 days ago. it broke his nose ,had fractures all over his face. had to get surgery
and i was wondering how the accident happened . thanks for the information
So sorry to hear that, hope he recovers quickly
Ya ,he is doing ok for now
@@vishnuanugrah4472 Good to hear. Get him a pair of GRR-RIPPERs before he gets back into the shop.
Should've got with Adam Savage and had a ballistics gel dummy on the receiving end of the kickback.
I always stand off to the side never in front of the wood and I practice and rehearse the cut several times until I’m ready to plug in the saw and make the cut.
Being thoughtful at your work is always going to be your safest course.
The BEST! Thank You, keep up the hard work.
A riving knife prevents all of those kick backs idc what that guy says. If the wood trys to kick back before it gets past the blade it can't it will just cut. If they could produce these results with a riving knife on they would have. This is bs
you can get kickback with incorrect use even if you have a riving knife. I've seen it happen to inexperienced users.
Here i was thinking this is just a safety lesson and nope its an ad
And a safety lesson, it would be hard for one one to slip the push stick to the fence. I have had to make some risky cuts haha.
But I have a gripper now and it’s worth saving my fingers ;)
@@joelhiggins9885 video only exists to be an ad
@@kahoycrafts Any askers?
@@TheNipSnipper Good point, I removed my previous comment.
Huh. I am 66 and have been using table saws for 40 years. My primary machine is a Delta Unisaw. Yes, it should have a riving knife and all that, but it doesn’t. Once - and only once - in that time did kickback occur. I use two push sticks, both from 3/4-inch plywood. This demonstration, with the push stick near the fence, guarantees that kickback will occur. Use the right-hand stick just to the right of the blade, and the left-hand stick against the wood just on the input side of the blade. Been doing it that way for decades. The one time there was kickback I wasn’t using the sticks.
Just because you haven't experienced does not mean it's not an issue.
Do not listen to this man.
Install a riving knife. No one is going to give you an award for using a saw dangerously and not getting hurt. Your only possible prize is an injury.
@@Nereosis16 Funny thing, my post says my saw should have a riving knife. My Bosch job site saw does have one. My point, dependent on reading my comment, is that the video intentionally sets up the worst possible saw technique to guarantee kickback in order to sell the gadget. Like driving your car into a brick wall without wearing a seat belt. Ear and eye protection, correct use of a push stick - two where necessary - and standing to the side when cutting all contribute hugely to safety. In addition, potentially unsafe cuts on a table saw are far safer on a miter saw. With these precautions the gadget seller would never have been able to demonstrate kickback.
my schools one of their table saws kicked back about 10 or more years ago and flew into the metal door
Thanks. This is why we make the GRR-RIPPER!
Not angling the wood into a blade with no riving knife works well in my experience...
Толкатель упирают в детальближе к пиле а не к линейке.таким толканием аы провацируете проворот и захват детали .+ расклинивающий нож решит вашу проблему.
Who is going to be buying me that ridiculously expensive push block? I know I'm not buying the damn thing!
I'll keep using my block of plywood that costs next to nothing!
The opera makes this video super dramatic..🤣🤣🤣👍👍
Usually you take one of those wood chunks direct shot to the nut sac.
Ja aconteceu comigo e foi dolorido. Feriu minha barriga. Hoje uso avental de couro e protetor facial
Pretty good advertisement for Gripper. It does work tho
I worked with a guy who lost his eye and job of 20+ years because of kickback and not wearing eye protection.
Yes, sir. We are all about the safety.
You mention the block will take the path of least resistance at 1:34, but this isn't the cause of the rotation. The path of least resistance basically means that an object will take most energy efficient path (among a set of alternative paths) between a start and endpoint. But what happens here is your effectively creating a momentum around the center by pushing the block on one side.
When dealing with a distributed mass you need to consider which point is being translated and often you use the center of mass. From the perspective block's center of mass you induce a moment which is half the width of the wood times the applied force. I mean you can even test this, place your phone next to a book, push it forward with a finger close to the book and watch what happens. Now do the same thing but without the book, the evolution is basically the same.
Final note, by placing the push stick in the middle of the blade and fence is basically the same (with less induced momentum) as what you first did. Try the same but placing the push stick in the middle of the wood, I guarantee the wood will slide down all the way to the end.
The fact that some of the physics isn't correct doesn't really change the fact that the video and it's purpose was great! Just pointing out some mistakes which I as an engineer found to be misleading
Thanks for explaining the physics!
Using a push stick in the center of a part without having it guided along the fence is not the recommended method. The stick can all too easily slide sideways, especially the bird's mouth type.
Our purpose here was to purposefully cause a kickback to show the violence of it.
Blade contact is not the only way to get hurt on the saw.
@@Microjig Oh for sure, and the center of the board might line up with the blade. My point was simply that the friction against the fence has little to do with the rotation. The initial rotation induced in the clip is due to the position of the forward thrust.
And I do agree, to lower the chance of kickback you want to push the wood forward, down and towards the fence. Just suggesting that you might want to double check the physics before posting videos, especially as a company. Your products are awesome but the physical explanation is simply wrong. No matter what the purpose of the video. In fact, you don't even need to include the physics and the clip would still be viable. But It's a disservice to everyone when you use faulty physics. No hard feelings, I love your jigs! (Abit expensive in Sweden, but still worth it! ^^)
@@lofwenmark It is not friction against the fence that causes the stock to wander to toward the blade, it is the friction between the board and the saw table top.
That is largely even across the bottom of the board, but when it is pushed from the right corner, the natural tendency is for the board to skew left, into the back of the blade.
@@Microjig Yes this is true, but it's not the whole truth. If the friction was zero between the wood and the table, rotation would still occur. Also, if the length orthogonal to the trajectory is high, then the moment will be the biggest factor for the rotation of the wood.
Again, I understand that deep-diving into the physics isn't the purpose of this video. But something I think you really should've included "The rotation of the wood is due to 1. friction between the table and wood. 2. The momentum. The further away from the centre-line of the wood, the higher the momentum".
This is crucial since negating (2) can cause kickback. I mean you even mention the practical aspect in the video when you said something like : 'I know the push stick shouldn't be to the side but for the experiment .. '. The one and only reason you place the stick as close to the center of the wood as possible is to avoid momentum around its center.
Im always wearing full face repirator and stay to right of table.
The music for slow motion reminds me of somewhere in Afghanistan
Loved the music will play this video just for the music at parties
Me: Where ist your "riving Knife" Young Boy?!
He: I have a Gripper!
Exactly. No need for a gripr, a simple riving knife would do the job. Have you ever wondered why the Gripr is not really popular in Europe?
@@paulotter5598 Probably because it is not a European company and is harder to.grt a hold of over there, but it could be a bevy of factors.
@@karl_alan Sorry Karl, have to say at least in Austria&Germany it's easy to get. I just think it has no lobby in Europe and also not a lot of promotion is done here.
Besides that the security benefit of it has always been "questionable".
Love the Gripper, but dude put the diving knife in and then do the video. The Gripper speaks for itself but the diving knife eliminates a lot of the kickback
"this ain't my first rodeo" was what my buddy said 20 seconds before a kickback hit him in the family jewels.
Ouch!
Caught a small one in the face once. It felt like it had ripped a good size hole in my face. Not much damage but he'll it hurt.
Hmmm... Wonder how many of those injuries are due to not having the anti-kickback device and riving knife and blade cover in place?
Riving Knife should not be in line with saw blade though
+- 0.3 mm to the right slightly outside the saw blade. PS it is best to make a Riving Knife from spring material BV. aluminium. And the wood remains pressed against the guide and the rest of the wood remains clamped in place against the guide and cannot shoot away, no kickback saw wood (I've had it like this for years) win win situation !
The riving knife is there to keep a closing kerf from pinching the back of the blade and kicking back. That is it's entire reason for being.
You can do what you wish, but acting as a micro featherboard is NOT the function of the riving knife. As you point out, it is thin and flexible so it literally can't extert any real holding of your stock to the fence.
Good tip
Paid for by Steve Ramsey of Woodworking For Mere Mortals. 🙃
I can see myself screaming like the Opera after the wood hit my eye
Or if it hit you in the nuts.. I'd sing like a soprano
Well done, thank you
I’ll be honest, this video makes me want to throw my Gripper in the trash.
Shop safety is no joke. You don’t get to remove every single safety mechanism on a saw, cry how dangerous it is, and then imply that your plastic push block will magically make everything safe again.
Why would you throw it in the trash. I use my gripper with the riving knife installed ALWAYS. It's unfortunate that some riving knives are not in line with the top of the blade, and thus make using the gripper for very thin stock more challenging. But there are mods to still use them if you get creative. The only thing that's had to stay off for cuts with the gripper is the blade guard, and that's only in the case of thin stock where the blade guard restricts the grippers movement.
There are a lot of older saws out there that don't have a blade guard or riving knife and a lot of woodworking forums and youtube channels that show "woodworkers" doing unsafe things. Worse yet, they often say they have been doing it that way for many years and if you "respect" the saw you won't get hurt. Unless you never ever make a mistake, a Gripper can be great safety device.
Hi, I don't know much about wood working but my husband loves it. I ran across your channel and thought you might be able to answer a question for me. My husband had an accident while using his table saw and cut off his left thumb after a kickback. something has happened to the splitter part. Do you have any idea where one can be found as he hasn't had any luck at finding a replacement for it. Sure would appreciate it if you could help with any knowledge of these.
We are deeply sorry to hear of your husband's accident. Microjig is all about safe woodworking.
Newer saws are required by law to have a riving knife, which is different than a splitter.
Not knowing your husband's saw make and model, we have no way of helping find the splitter. They usually can be bought as replacement parts unless the saw is very old or long out of production.
Most older saws used the bracket for the blade guard as a splitter, but that design has always been flawed.
A good riving knife is a major safety item and should be used whenever possible, but we do make our MJ Splitters as a retrofit for older saws that do not have a proper riving knife available.
Karen, our MJ Splitters do work with the Powermatic Saw, we have one here in our shop. Please feel free to email us at support@microjig.com or call us at (855) 747-7233 and we can help you.
I use the guard, knife and anti kickback pawls? The Gripper is for those folks who don't use the guard, correct?
You are correct, the GRR-RIPPER is not compatible with blade guards. We would never tell you to do anything that you are uncomfortable doing in your own shop, but remember that you cannot really use a blade guard for fence settings less than about 1", and that GRR-RIPPERs are awesome at the router table, band saw and jointer as well as the table saw.
I'm in a rush to get a big job down i just cannot get my table saw knife and blade cover on after it was removed by my d.h..
Its a hitache the two are connected. Looks a lot like the saw table your using. Do you have a video for that?
This is why I use a radial arm saw. It can’t kickback in cross-cutting. And in ripping, you are not standing in the line of fire of a kickback.
You can and should stand out of the way of kickback on a table saw. And the simple fact is that radial arm saws are not made for ripping and kick back far more readily than table saws do.
Additionally, while a RAS does not "kick back" in the same sense when cross cutting, to say it can't kick back when cross cutting is simply untrue.
The saw head itself is FULLY capable of rapidly driving across the table and toward the operator. Every RAS manual warns against this risk.
@@Microjig It can’t kick back when cross cutting. The saw can only run on its track, and you have a hand on the handle, so that hand can’t possibly get cut, and the hand holding the stock has an obvious line to stay away from. Moreover, the hand holding the stock is STATIONARY, Not moving Towards the blade, like on a table saw. When you aren’t moving your hands, you are less likely to make contact with the blade. The first few times someone uses a radial, it might seem like the saw is running towards you, but that feeling goes away when you learn that you are not PULLING the saw, you are actually braking it with your arm.
What makes kickback so dangerous on a table saw is that you can’t KNOW where it will throw the wood and as a result you can’t really stand out of the way. The further off line you stand, the higher the likelihood of causing a kickback. At the radial, it’s much easier to hold the stock against the fence because you are standing Opposite the fence, rather than in line with it or at some narrow angle to it.
It’s simply not true that radials are not made for ripping. They actually are designed to rip in 2 directions. And I can set my radial up for ripping faster and just as accurately as any table saw. In 45 years of using one I have never seen it kickback, but if it ever should, it throws the wood 90 degrees away from me to the left or the right. Not AT me.
And a primary danger in table saws is actually the thing most people think is safer. You can’t see the blade. People often make contact with it because of how easy it is to lose awareness of something 98% hidden from view. With the radial, you never lose awareness of exactly where the blade is. The big scary thing is right there on full view and, I think, a certain amount of fear makes a saw operator behave in a safer manner.
While I am sure folks have managed to injure themselves with a radial, because you can injure yourself with a wash rag if you try hard enough, they are far less likely to on a radial than a table saw.
Add in all the things a radial can do that no table saw can and it’s a far more versatile tool that takes up a lot less space. ( Planer, shaper, horizontal and skew cutting )
I Have a table saw. But for cross cutting anything, and for ripping anything 24” or less, I fire up the radial for it, not the table saw.
And if space in your shop is limited, a Radial against one wall, and a track saw for reducing sheet goods, can replace a table saw and save you all that floor space a good one takes up.
ETA- When ripping or cross cutting on a table saw, the danger from the kickback is that the teeth at the back of the blade are sweeping UP out of the table. This means the far end of the wood, where it is cut thru and free, is likely to get lifted off the table, across the top of the blade and pulled away from the fence and rocketed towards you, because that is the direction the teeth on the top of the blade are moving. On the radial in a rip, the teeth at the back of the cut are sweeping down, pushing the wood against the table. On a thru cut, the teeth are then below the surface of the table moving to the left or right in the table kerf, depending on whether you are doing an in rip or out rip. This means the primary force that can cause the radial to kick a piece of wood out is friction with the SURFACE of the spinning blade, where there are no teeth to catch and throw the wood. It takes a pretty severe warp in a piece of wood to cause it to bind between the thinner middle of a blade and the fence. And, on a radial, you would never rip a piece of wood that was shorter than width of the blade. You would set that up as a cross cut. Perhaps that is why kickbacks are so rare on radials.
@@christopherpardell4418 You do what you think is safe in your shop, but having used radial arm saws of all descriptions for four decades in professional shops, I can assure you they can and have kicked back. Show me a manual for one that does not warn of kickback.
Get the Gripper its worth EVERY penny
What if we design a table saw that the user has to pull the material instead of push. That way the user can be out of the way of a kickback.
Do not ever use a table saw without as least a riving knife on the backside of the blade
Never.
I screwed up and got hit by kickback. I didn’t even have time to say “Oh, 💩” and the piece was on me. I put the riving knife back on immediately. Yeah, I was in a hurry; that’s spelled “S. T. U. P. I. D.”
just curious...why did you take it off?..does it restrict your cutting ability somewhat?
@@troyporter3825 I can't answer for @NAVRET, but I take mine off when doing dadoes (the blade is wider than the riving knife making it useless) or when doing kerf cuts because my table saw's lowest position for the riving knife is taller than the blade. It goes right back on immediately after because it is such an important safety feature. I also keep the anti-kickback claw in place at all times unless I'm using a jig it interferes with.
@@mychalevenson7710 aaah I see...thanks!
This is why i use a radial arm saw.
If you think that a Radial Arm Saw cannot kick back, you are wrong. It does so differently, but certainly can. Especially in rip cutting.