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We'll be happy to!

It is possible to get a new sticker. Reach out to us at support@microjig.com and we can send one.

Morgan has gone out on his own since this video was made, but you can find him here: www.morganhop.com/

You are certainly welcome to your opinion, and you need to do what you feel is safe in your shop. However, even if you want to use your blade guard, there are times that you simply cannot. For example, when not cutting all the way through the stock like groove cuts and shoulder cuts. Or when using dado blades. Or when making any rip under about 1" in width, the blade guard does not fit between the blade and the fence. In each of these cases, the GRR-RIPPERs meet all of OSHA's requirements. And the GRR-RIPPER is highly useful on the router table, jointer and band saw as well as the table saw. Anywhere bits and blades want to bite you.

@@Microjig 1) non-through cuts are perfectly possible with a blade guard. Just not one supported by the riving knife. There are other designs. I use one such myself. 2) narrow cuts- you use an auxiliary low fence. Plenty of you tube videos to teach you how to do that. 3) H&S is not about meeting nationally set minimum standards. It is about local risk assessment. There are several thousand table-saw accidents in the US every year- most would be prevented if a blade guard was always used. An 'instructional video' (your claim) should feature safe operation- indeed, it should be the primary concern. Yes, the gripper can be useful on a router table etc- but not a table saw.

@@Tensquaremetreworkshop Again, you do what you think is safe. Hundreds of thousands of GRR-RIPPERs have been sold for 22 years now. They are in use in shops all over the US and the world. Many production shops use them daily.

@@Microjig Not about thinking, it is about data. 50,000 table-saw accidents a year in the US.

You are certainly welcome to your opinion, and you need to do what you feel is safe in your shop. However, even if you want to use your blade guard, there are times that you simply cannot. For example, when not cutting all the way through the stock like groove cuts and shoulder cuts. Or when using dado blades. Or when making any rip under about 1" in width, the blade guard does not fit between the blade and the fence. And no, a crosscut sled that span the blade cannot reasonably be adapted to function with the blade guard. In each of these cases, the GRR-RIPPERs meet all of OSHA's requirements. And the GRR-RIPPER is highly useful on the router table, jointer and band saw as well as the table saw. Anywhere bits and blades want to bite you. Reply

Technically, a dado is a groove cut across the grain withing a piece of wood. Like the groove that holds a shelf in a cabinet or book case. The term has expanded to include grooves that run with the grain as well, like the groove that holds the bottom of a drawer box. A rabbet is when the groove is on the edge of a part so it is open on two sides.

The Dado Stop can cut dados up to 13/16" wide plus the width of the blade, so 15/16" with a full kerf blade, or 1-5/8" with a full 13/16" dado stack. Our Friend at Woodcademy did a video on using the Dado Stop with a Dado Blade, you can see it here: czcams.com/video/OMWdcCunMaY/video.html

We have actually just REDUCED our prices across the board for the SECOND time since Covid. The molds are expensive, the price of plastic is directly tied to oil prices, and a lot of people are involved in the process of making and distributing any product. They all need to be paid fairly.

Jonathan, we have no current plans to do that, but it is not impossible.

Contact me at ralph@microjig.com and I will be happy to talk with you about your issues with the FitFinder and get you a new one.

Any lumber yard that carries Baltic Birch plywood. You won't find it at the box stores.

It is HIGHLY recommended to cut a relief groove before cutting the dovetail. This does NOT mean you can only use our bit. Any 1/4" straight cutter will work, and I even cut them using a 1/4" dado stack on the saw sometimes. The relief groove should be used with any "undercutting" bit like a dovetail or a t-slot cutter for example. The relief groove removes much of the waste from the cut so there is not so much for the undercutting bit to remove. And this also means fewer chips trapped in the groove being re-ground over and over. You will find you get cleaner cuts, and your dovetail bit will last MUCH longer when you use a relief groove.

@@Microjig Thank you! I look forward to ordering this setup soon WITH the relief bit.

@@enterprise59 glad to be of help. You can always email us directly at support@microjig.com

The GRR-RIPPER acts as your moving blade guard, keeping your hands well above the blade even if the part is ejected. Using a push stick, your hand still often passes directly over the blade. If you prefer to use your blade guard, by all means do so. But for thin rips (about 1" or less) the blade guard will not fit between the blade nad the rip fence. The GRR-RIPPER meets all OSHA standards for use in situations where the blade guard cannot be used.

Brett, what part do you think is wrong? And Steve has his own channel, Woodworking for Mere Mortals. This is MicroJig's channel and that guy is Morgan Hop.

No, it is not impossible to find, but any good quality plywood will work. BB plywood is generally 15 plys. 11 plys is considered "Cabinet Grade" plywood and will work quite well.

We have a page of free project plans on our website here: www.microjig.com/projects If you are looking for a specific plan, email me at ralph@microjig.com and I can get you what you want.

We are working on an updated version of these plans, and they will include a removable end fence. You want that support, but making it removable allows for making miter cuts on longer boards.

Bill, do you happen to have any facts or data to back up your claim? We have about 100,000 GRR-RIPPERs out in the world over the last 22 years. If you have data proving otherwise, we would love to see it.

We have a complete set of video instructions here on CZcams: czcams.com/play/PLuQf0KwE_Iq6imOEXXrfR9l1N0NzyUI8c.html The first two adjacent sides get cut with one setup, the second two need to have the angle doubled just like any taper jig. Ours just makes it easy and accurate.

If the Ryobi clamp groove is the standard 12mm wide, 5-6mm tall with an 8mm opening along the bottom, yes, it should.

Bear in mind that this video was produced by Marc Spagnolo, so we did not have control over the content. You may disagree with his method (I use a GRR-RIPPER in each hand at the saw most of the time) but you cannot disagree with our results over the 22 years we have been saving fingers. We have sold hundreds of thousands of GRR-RIPPERs and our customer ratings are consistently 4-5 stars. They work.

This is an older video from Marc, but that is a Powermatic, either a 66 or a 2000

@@Microjig I'm going to have to look at the insides of those model numbers. That's either magic, luck or something in the design.

@@mikeconroy2651 I have been a pro woodworker for 40 years. If you take the time to seal the gaps between the cabinet of your saw and the top, you can get some impressive results with a good dust collector.

Adrian, not at the moment, but we are re-working them to reflect some new parts, and the new version will have both measurements included.

Adrian, No reason at all. The best part about making your own jigs is you can make them to fit your needs.