Chinese Diesel Heaters - Part 6 - Combustion Air Inlet
Vložit
- čas přidán 17. 02. 2019
- This is a video on the combustion air inlet for 5 KW Chinese Diesel Air Heaters.
It is so important to do all you can to allow easy and adequate air flow into the combustion chamber of these heaters.
The combustion chamber is sealed, so if you restrict flow out of the exhaust you also restrict air flow into the combustion chamber. If the exhaust gas does not go out, inlet air can not come in.
If you restrict air flow into the combustion chamber you will have poor combustion and excessive Carbon Monoxide gas (CO) and soot production.
In my personal opinion, if your air intake hose is greater than about 500mm, or you have a number of bends, or you have an intake air silencer, you need to increase the size of the air intake hose. The 25 mm diameter supplied intake hose is just too small for longer runs.
You also need to restrict to a minimum the number of bends and twists in the intake hose. Each bend and twist creates airflow restrictions resulting in lack of adequate air (read oxygen) into the combustion chamber and hence poor combustion.
The reason to take these steps is the air is drawn into the combustion chamber on these heaters by just a small combustion fan, spinning at a maximum speed of 4,000 rpm to 4,500 rpm. It is a world away from an internal combustion engine with both positive displacement pistons and a turbo spinning at 200,000 rpm, both sucking and forcing combustion air into the combustion chamber.
It is important to install an intake air filter in most applications to keep out bugs, lizards etc from being ingested into the heater.use a mesh filter in a clean environment or a foam filter if the intake is in a dirty environment such as dust etc.
One eBay source for mesh filters is below.
www.ebay.com.au/itm/25mm-Air-...
I hope this information can help you in your planning and instillation considerations for these Chinese Diesel Air Heaters.
Disclaimer. The opinions and suggestions expressed by me are my own opinions, from my own experience, testing and research. You must do your own research and come to your own conclusions as to whether or not my opinions and suggestions will suit you and your particular requirements. J. - Auta a dopravní prostředky
About air intake silencer, I think reason for higher noise with silencer was you held it nearer to noise meter. Many thanks for your informative videos.
agree, needs to be done where the airflow is not passing over the meter.
Thanks for the feedback Rob.
I re-did the tests. Ambient temp. 25degC. I used an intake silencer with baffles and holes in the end of the end cap, one with baffles but no holes in the end of the end cap, and one with the baffled cap removed just having the straight through part with the surrounding noise absorbent foam.
Test 1. 3 Hz setting, distance of 200 mm from exit and silencer (side on readings) average of 5 readings.
No silencer - 69 db. Sil. with end holes - 69.5 db. Sil. with no end holes. - 70 db. Silencer with end baffle removed - 68 db
Test 2. 4 Hz setting, distance 200 mm as above. Average of 5 readings.
No silencer - 72 db. Sil with end holes - 71.5 db. Sil with no end holes - 72 db. Sil. With end baffle removed - 71 db.
Test 3 . 4 Hz setting, distance 1 meter, end on meter reading, average of 5 readings.
No silencer - 62 db. Sil with end holes - 62 db. Sil with no end holes 62 db. Sil. with end baffle removed - 61 db.
My thinking at this stage is that the baffles in the intake silencer creat their own air noise and negate the absorbent action of the foam insert in the silencer. You get a 1 db noise reduction by removing the end cap baffles.
It is important to have a proper filter, so if you removed the baffle end cap and then mounted a filter you would get a 1 db noise reduction plus filter air. However 61 db at 1 meter is not too much noise and may not be worth the effort. Exhaust noise is most likely to annoy your neighbours. Also, be aware that the majority of the ambient noise in this test would come from the exhaust outlet. J.
@Ryan
Thanks for the positive feedback Ryan. JMcK
Great wealth of information here.
Thanks for the thorough breakdown in your videos.
Your welcome. JMcK
the best series for understanding installation operation and function of these heaters thanks for sharing
Thanks for your positive comments. JMcK
all your videos on these diesel heaters are so practically informative 👍🏻👌🏻
Thank you for the positive feedback FS. JMcK
Super informative nice to get an understanding of the internal workings, to help fault find when in the wilderness.
Glad you like the videos Robbie. JMcK
Really enjoying getting a detailed understanding of the factors influencing the operation of these heaters. Particularly your experimental setups and analysis. There is as much apparatus standardisation as can be expected and a clear comparison to theoretical results. Thanks John!
Thanks for the feedback Tim. JMcK
Thank you for the very excellent series and attention to detail. I fired up my 5kw yesterday and all is working well thanks to you John. Very helpful knowing and understanding the working parameters that these heaters run under. Awesome work, keep it up you're the go to expert that I'll be referring people to on my channel.
Thank you for the positive feedback NWHiker. J
Used a silencer like that on my eber D4. It definitely muted the roar of the air intake. Great channel. Thanks
Thanks directorstu. JMcK
brillant to see how that works opened up without that I have to do that also, good combustion no smoke, easy to remamner for newbies like me.... Thank you
Thanks so much for your presentation! I've had three of these in work trucks first year was great, this season, not so good. I'm going to work on better air intake.
Thanks for the feedback Allen. JMcK
Here I am learning all the wrong things I've been doing to what was a bit of a mystery box! Massive thanks for this series, I can finally completely understand this excellent system, overhaul my setup, get it working again, and then use it properly and with confidence from then on out.
👍
This tutorial was great John, about to install my unit and hadn't previously understood the air intake hose length/bends/filter and the impact it would have on the operation of my heater, a big thank you!!
Glad to be of some help Keith. JMcK
Thinking of moving my intake through 4" dryer duct to the engine bay, in hopes that the noise will be more absorbed by the firewall padding and other soft materials up there.
Love your videos. Very complete, and the scientific approach is much appreciated.
Thanks for the feedback. JMcK
I wasn't interested in these heaters before for so many reasons due to all the both good and negative reviews. Then I find dear ol' Johnny Mck and now that I know all the ins and outs I'm going for it! Thanks John!! I watched all your vids and you are amazing at doing a full HONEST review with every point taken into account! :)
Hi Mr R.
Thanks for the positive feedback. Glad you got something out of the videos. JMcK
John, Regarding the db level for the intake silencer, you didn't move the meter when you fitted the silencer so the opening was much closer to the meter which could explain the higher reading. Enjoyed the video.
Fantastic video, Great information and tips.
Pleased you liked it JR. JMcK
I'm an old school camper with a heated tent by wood. Adequate ventilation is a must!
With a diesel heater in my camper van i still have my roof fan open and a cracked window while the heat is on.
Great series very informative . Plan on ordering one based on your series. Keep up the good work 👏
Thank you Louis. JMcK
@@johnmck1147 john I got a 5k unit based on your channel set up everything but the pump does not work at all . No sound even when I set to prime . No error codes . Battery is good and it try to start. I gave ordered new pump but am I missing anything in settings ?
louis vasconcelos
Hi Louis,
First, did you have the heater apart?
Did you wait? When you turn the heater on the ECU first turns on the fan, then the glow plug. It is only after the glow plug is hot that the pump starts.
It is rare for a pump to fail, have you checked the wiring? No lose plug or broken wires. You can check the pump by connecting it briefly to a battery. Connect one battery wire to one of the pins and briefly touch the other battery wire to the other pin. You will hear the pump click. The polarity does not matter.
If the pump works and you checked the wires, test the glow plug next. Does it get hot when you turn the heater on?
It is rare, but possible that if the pump works you may have an ECU issue. I would then ask for a replacement if you just bought it. JMcK
@@johnmck1147 bad luck on my 5k sure enough bad pump and glow plug. Thanks to alibaba and 50 bucks canadian to replace both plug and pump and it started up and ran great 👍. John u are correct about the exhaust muffler big improvement. Now to install on caravan . Getting chilly up here in canada 🇨🇦
louis vasconcelos
Hope it all goes well Lous. JMcK
Excellent stuff there bud 👍🏻
Thanks Mr Rabbit. JMcK
Thank you from the United States (Oregon). Looking at buying one of these, and this series is very helpful for me to understand what I'll be buying.
Hi Joe, pleased you found the series helpful. JMcK
Great Video!! Top quality. Thank you.
Thanks Tim. JMcK
The air inlet pipe can be the noisiest part of the burner some of the filters that are supplied can make the burner produce a high whistling type noise even without a silencer there is still some whistling noise through the small pipe😄👍👍
you're made it better. thanks for sharing
Your welcome Bob. JMcK
thanks for the advices
I love your video series on these heaters! I bought several just before Christmas and they came with a slightly different air intake. More restricted but with a half-assed plastic screen/mesh inside to keep the bugs out. I'd still go for a motor-bike filter but it shows they're conscious of the problem. I think for most of the viewers the general problem is there are 100's of sellers selling dozens of different makes of the same thing and its a coin-toss whether you're getting a quality product or a factory-reject :-/ The $160 USD/ea was easy...buying the Recreational Vehicle to put it in is going to be tougher :-) Cheers from Oregon, USA.
Hi Mr 144,
Thanks for the feedback. Yes, I agree with what you say about the sellers, and I had thought of putting a link to a couple of good ones I have purchased from, but it is generally better if you can purchase from a seller who has a local warehouse in the country of purchase, and one who accepts returns. (Although sometimes that does not mean anything)
For the totally non practical purchaser, it can sometimes be better to pay more and buy a "branded" knock off from a local camping or RV supplier, who will provide advice, instillation and warranty. J
Excellent thoughts and advice. Thank you for sharing
Hi Jaybee, pleased you liked the videos. JMcK
@@johnmck1147 Thank you John. I am currently playing with my new heater on the bench. Noise is my main concern for stealth camping in the UK, so you can see why I like your videos so much and the wealth of experience and ideas from your fantastic followers. Regarding inlet noise, I have been looking for an inlet pipe made of a soft material, rather than the hard aluminum pipe that came with the heater. So far no luck with that, but I have come to realize how correct you are when you stress how important it is not to restrict the airflow through the burner. I tried putting a small ball of wirewool into the exhaust pipe which did reduce the exhaust noise, but the exhaust gasses quickly became sooty. I also bought a 3m long exhaust extension pipe to try, which I connected in a fairly straight line, but this was even worse with very visible black smoke. The smoke in my garage was so bad and with my carbon monoxide alarm going off, I did not have much time to assess how quiet this pipe was.
I wonder if turning the min and max fan speeds up, would this increase the air supply to the burner. If so, maybe that extra air supply would give a little more scope for attaching noise reducing measures. The extra air flow would of course make more noise in itself.
I have ordered a Honda style generator foam inlet filter and I may go for multiple mufflers in series. The heater is very quiet running at low speeds and this has prompted me to be more thorough with adding insulation to my new van conversion, so with less heat loss, I can turn the heater down for a quieter life.
realise
jaybee258
Hi Jaybee,
The metal pipe is the exhaust pipe. The combustion air inlet is a plastic pipe.
You are on the right track, these heaters just have a tiny combustion fan and they do not like restrictions. Keep the exhaust and combustion inlet pipes VERY short, and they will burn clean.
Suggest you not play with factory settings.
Unless you have holes in the floor of your van, and it is lowered to mere inches of the road like some hot rod, the exhaust can exit under van, with a short exhaust rather than run a long hose out the back. Always have a CO meter inside accommodation space though.
They run quite on low speed. One of the reasons to have a bigger heater running slow rather than a small heater running fast.
Cheers. JMcK
Thank you thos series Is amazing
Pleased you liked it Nathan. JMcK
Hi John. Thanks for the informative video. My install involves my heater being up on a bench in my van and the exhaust and inlet pipes run down inside trunking to the floor and then outside underneath. I bought a longer exhaust pipe as the supplied one was just a few inches too short. I cut the longer one to only be as long as I needed and fitted the muffler. All is well there. However I wasn’t happy with the quality of the inlet pipe and decided to use the originally supplied exhaust pipe instead with a short piece of the original inlet added to the end to enable a bend to point the silencer on the end away from the exhaust. I also used a 3” piece as an adapter to fit the exhaust pipe to the inlet port as the size is bigger. Having watched your video I now realize this is a mistake as I have slightly reduced the inlet pipe size by using the exhaust pipe. I also noted a very tiny wisp of smoke from the INLET connection under the unit when the burner runs on high. I mean really tiny amount - I had to shine a flashlight on it to see it. I wonder how this would come from the INLET connection? Even if I have a poor connection, surely there should be no smoke there. Obviously I will need to redo this with better inlet pipe now so I will use the heat silicone on the inlet joint as well to be sure of a seal. I was thinking of using a straight piece of copper plumbing pipe straight down and one angle at the bottom to direct the silencer/filter (will be getting a better one than supplied) away from the exhaust. The distance from the bottom of the heater to the van floor is about 20” and then about 5 or 6 inches from the underside of the floor to the muffler then about 3” of pipe on muffler to take exhaust past bodywork. Inlet about same length. Without going into lengthy details, the mounting on a counter is necessary for my layout or I would have gone with floor fit. Obviously this does necessitate extra care on sealing the inlet and particularly the exhaust at the bottom of the unit. The trunking is more for protection from heat off the exhaust than trying to seal anything up. In fact I have an opening close to the top of the trunking to let excess heat out to avoid build up. I ran the fuel pipe (of the thinner bore type you recommended) inside a thicker rubber pipe around the outside of the inlet pipe and then up to the spigot to keep it away from the heat of the exhaust as it is in enclosed trunking. It comes in from the side of the trunking a few inches below the spigot, so as short as possible. All seems to run very well in my tests but just concerned about that tiny amount of smoke from inlet (which vanishes on slow running) and the bore of the pipe. I hope to fix both with change of pipe (does the straight copper pipe sound good? I want to avoid plastic in the heated confines of the trunking) but bewildered by smoke from inlet at all. Sorry for long drawn out post but trying to give all info. Many thanks,
Russ
Hi MM,
Thanks for the detailed post. Smoke signals a rich mixture burn. This can be caused by restrictions in the combustion air inlet or exhaust, operation at altitude, atomisation issues, fan cavitation issues etc.
Small wisps of smoke coming out the combustion air inlet pipe occasionally happen, but you need to check that the fuel pipe inlet rubber seal on the burner is in the correct position.
Please view the seals and gasket video. JMcK
Fantastic set of videos you've provided, which have really educated me. Thank you.
To reduce the number of adaptors needed to increase the air inlet size you can get reducing elbows to fit straight on the inlet manifold and I have found them in the following sizes:
25mm X 32
25mm X 35
25mm X 38
25mm X 45
👍
Thanks for the positive feedback Peter. JMcK
Thanks for putting these videos together, John. These are an absolute godsend and wealth of information found nowhere else They should receive an Oscar! (And I love the birds in the background. What species are they?)
Thanks for the positive feedback DA, the birds in the background are mostly Australian Magpie, and Australian Butcher Birds. JMcK
Thank you, sir.
in the uk we have Aldi stores and they sell reuseable fruit Nylon bags made of a fine mesch netting, Ive cut a single sheet of this and trapped it between the joints of the air baffle and it works just fine on all 3 of my diesel heaters, one bag is big enough for about 20 intake silencers, shortening the air intake also helps.
The intake silencer makes mine far quieter. It does minimise the howling "jet" noise.
Very informative series!
I have been heating my garage with a 5.8kW kerosene Monitor heater for years, and just picked up one of these diesel heaters to compliment it. The Monitor uses a co-axial intake/exhaust that keeps the exhaust cage cool enough to touch and that also pre-heats the combustion intake (which should make for a more efficient burn - especially with diesel), and I cannot for the life of me understand why nobody has tried that with one of these.
My plan is to do just this, passing the corrugated stainless exhaust tube (a great heat exchanger surface) through a brass plumbing drain tube that will carry the intake air.
I also wanted to try a preheater, the first reason why I didn't do it is that an inlet at 158° expands the air reducing the oxygen, but if you say it works I will certainly try it, especially since I use the heater at 0.8hz smelling of unburned diesel. the second reason is the fear of a positive feedback. Excuse my english (gtranslate)
Hot air is less dense than cold air.
The same volume will carry less oxygen.
You might expect less efficient combustion, with more carbon monoxide and more soot.
@@johnstarkie9948 Mixture is just an altitude setting away.
@@robertlitman2661
A richer setting; more carbon monoxide & soot
A leaner mixture; less CO & C.
Also affected by carb heat.
John, my air filter is simply a large mesh screen. Only to keep critters from climbing in.
John I just got a new diesel heater today and I think the inlet filter has changed, it now has no baffles. It is still a barrel shape, but the end is closed off, there are 8 rectangular shaped air inlet openings around the outside of the barrel, each 1cm x 6mm with a mesh screen that covers these inlet holes. The mesh screen rolls up inside the barrel and the force of it trying to unroll holds it again the ID of the barrel.
This is my first diesel heater, so I very well may be confused and you have already done tests on this style filter, but thought you might want to know if not.
Thanks for making these in-depth videos.
John, would really like to see an operational comparison of larger intake setup verses standard. Please consider. Im learning so much from you/your videos. Thank You Much.
Hi Pastor Justin.
Thanks for the feedback.
Ref the larger intake set up. For what purpose?
The heater works by transferring heat from the heat exchanger to the air flowing over the heat exchanger. At a particular heat setting, there is a finite amount of heat to be distributed.
Cheers. JMcK
The spongy looking filter is also sold by Lawn mower equipment stores
Hello John, thank you for another excellent video! It helped me a lot. Got a question: do I understand it correctly that considering air intake it would be most effective to put directly under the diesel heater original silencer (only the straight part) and some nice big air filter with almost no hose at all? Thank you!
Great information. Cheers! Love the accent too ;) P.S. No worries...
Hi there, sorry for the late reply. Suggest you bring the air to be heated and also the combustion air inlet from outside. If this is not feasible, suggest you put a simple air filter on each. JMcK
Thanks so much for your video. I ordered a heater and will be installing it under my seat in my 77 chevy van in a few weeks. I understand limitation on the max length of these intake hose, but assume there is no limitation on how short the intake hose can be right?. I think I might forget the intake hose all together and just suck air directly from beneath as long as whatever is going through the floor of the van is enough to be taking from outside the vehicle. Although my van is pretty high off ground thinking through I do see perhaps an issue in winter or rainy weather if there is snow or anything wet under the vehicle and somehow water got sucked into intake. I therefore might make one 90 degree turn in a short intake to point that away from where i would expect water could drip or splash. I agree that cheap hose is an issue. if when driving any rock or anything was kicked up it could dent or crushed that cheap intake pipe. I might therefore use something like you show. I assume the intake part is cold. so one could use PVC pipe?, that is smooth and would a low good air flow. but just to be sure does it get at all hot where the intake hose connects after the heater has been running a while? Regarding filters, i will see what is at my hardware store, but i think if I already have lying around some screen mesh like the ones that used on windows I can create my own filter with enough air flow but that restrict the small bugs and things that would clog that hole. I might also have metal fine mesh strainers. Anyway thanks so much for these important videos. I also see this Uni Filter Snow Pod Foam for sale which are "designed specifically for snowmobiles. The foam itself is very porous compared to a conventional dirt filter and have better draw characteristics" maybe this is ideal for adding to the heater intake
Hi Jha,
Yes the combustion air intake hose can be very short. Yes it stays cold and PVC pipe is an excellent intake pipe provided you restrict the use of those sharp 90 deg bends.
One issue to be careful of when the intake is under a vehicle is excessive moisture intake.
One big issue of under vehicle intake in snow country's that use salt on their roads is bad heater corrosion.
Ingested moisture, particularly if it has a salt content, will corrode the intake internals.
There is just a very small clearance between the aluminum casting and the internal combustion air fan. Even slight corrosion causes surface swelling of the aluminum and prevents the fan from turning.
Those foam type filters are a great advantage over mesh filters for under vehicle intakes as they restrict this moisture and salt intake.
If you get a fan error on first start after summer shutdown, it is often this swelling corrosion jamming the fan.
JMcK
have dealt with that black type smooth hose you showed.... the one we had (on an air pump) whas JUNK. broke often and is very hard to mend. granted we were moving the pump from storage to use... practically every day....... just something to keep in mind.
Thanks for the feedback Coachgeo. JMcK
Thank you for all your videos on the diesel heater. I have a question, I put a diesel heater in my woodshop. I have a concern about dust particles. Should I do anything special or is this not a problem? Thanks
These videos have been great helping design my install approximately 12months ago. Many thanks for you dedication. My 2kw heater is now struggling to start. Lots of white smoke followed by e-10. But if I blow into the air intake whilst it’s smoking I can get it to run. I wonder what the problem is?
Hi John,
From your comments it appears to be a combustion burn issue.
Probably caused by carbon build up in the glow plug screen and the small burner start hole at the glow plug screen. If the little hole is blocked and/or the glow plug screen is blocked with carbon you will have starting issues.
You also most likely have a carbon build up in the burner itself.
If you feel confident in stripping down the heater, do that and clean out the carbon.
If you don't feel confident and you can get the heater to start run a high kerro mix (90/10) through the heater on a high setting for about 30 mins or so, and then turn off, let cool and try the heater again to see if that made things better. If so use a full tank of the kerro/diesel mix when next operating the heater.
Now you need to look at your install and operation.
Do you have excessive restrictions in your combustion air inlet or exhaust? If so this can lead to carbon build up.
Do you mostly run the heater on a low setting? If so, do you occasionally give the heater a boost fun on max setting to burn off carbon before you switch off.
Last up, I must ask this. Are you one of those people who like to run different oils through your heater. Burning oils produce lots of carbon.
Good luck. JMcK
John I like the simplicity of that mesh filter can you please post a link to Ebay on that? Cheers!
Hi Sean, below is the eBay link for one mesh filter. The PVC one is a hardware item, and the foam one from a motorbike shop.
www.ebay.com.au/itm/25mm-Air-Intake-Filter-Silencer-For-Dometic-Eberspacher-Webasto-Diesel-Heater/292922777996?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649
Hello John, thank you for your time teaching the ins and outs of this heater. Ive installed the heater in the benchspace on the door and annex side of the Avan. To guide the exhaust away from the door Ive exstended the outlet by 3 meters after the standard 60 cm supplied exhaust hose and muffler. Would this causr incomplete burning and soot buildup inside the burner chamber.
Yes Marion, nearly 4 meters is really too long for that little heater exhaust fan. This system is totally different from the piston force exhaust of a motorcar.
Installed right these heaters burn very clean. In my videos I have a CO meter very close to the exhaust in open air and I does not register.
You will need to look for another solution. Perhaps just direct the exhaust down under the middle of the vehicle. Lots of air space down there.
Also suggest you get a CO meter for inside the van. You will not get any readings if you chose the suggested option.
You can increase the exhaust a little if you go to bigger pipe. Good luck. JMcK
Thanks for mentioning about the filter. Even the Webasto I've got the seller sent one of those stupid baffles, but no filter. I'm starting to hate these "sellers".
Hi John, thanks for the video series on these heaters - great work. I just ordered one for our Skoolie and was wondering on your thoughts about a specific installation plan. I would like to use the bus diesel tank (60 gallons), and opposed to tapping into the fuel feed to the engine, was thinking of replacing the tanks drain plug with a 90 degree fitting - but place a 2" or so copper/brass vertical nipple in the pickup side, so that 1) it's not getting fuel directly off the bottom of the tank; and 2) would always leave 2" or so of fuel in the tank for the engine. Additionally, I think a mounting location near the front of the bus will work, so was contemplating using the exhaust of the heater to blow into the engine area (probably aimed at the engine oil sump). The thinking is that if it's cold out and the diesel heater is running, it would also pre-heat the bus diesel engine (which is hard to start when it's cold out). Any red flags in this setup?
Hi Jeff,
Sounds doable, just make sure exhaust gases can't get into the cab, and the exhaust does not face forward which would creat back pressure issues when moving. JMcK
Air intake silencer can be a very good filter. Just take the front part off. Cap it ofwith PET cap and then drill holes around the silencer body.
Thanks for the feedback Waliza001. JMcK
Is using a copper elbow on the steel intake and exhaust pipes ok? Is there not galvanic corrosion?
Hi CJ,
Yes, this is possible/likely in theory, but for galvanic corrosion you need moisture, and these heaters make very dry heat. You should use some gasket sealant on the join that not only seals but provides a barrier coat against corrosion.
I have only run my portable heater with the copper bend, on and off for a year, so I don't have long term testing here.
However on our boat the heater has been running with a stainless steel exhaust mated to an aluminum heat exchanger for some 20 years without a corrosion issue, and stainless and aluminum don't go well together at all in a marine environment. The saviour is the dry heat.
Cheers. JMcK
@@johnmck1147 Hey John, Thank you so much for replying. I'll go with the copper elbow. Is a 1" 90 elbow the appropriate size? Also, It was suggested that I use a high temperature silicone sealant. Is that what you mean as well? Thanks for your excellent videos, they gave me the confidence to DIY my own Diesel Heater In-A-Box for my Jeep winter camping adventures. Cheers!
There is one benefit to the intake silencer - it makes it much harder for mice to crawl into your air intake when it's not operating. 😊 I'm thinking of 3D printing some kind of fitting on the end of the air intake with a screen to keep objects from getting sucked into the air intake (leaves, bugs, etc). Something funnel-shaped so that the screened area is significantly larger surface area than the hose opening, so that the screen itself doesn't restrict airflow.
Hi CP,
This is the filter I use.
www.ebay.com.au/itm/Air-Intake-Filter-Silencer-For-25mm-Intake-Manifold-Diesel-Heater-Durable-Kit/274337332517?hash=item3fdfc77d25:g:BcIAAOSwBp1elrYT
Cheers. JMcK
@@johnmck1147 Oh! I didn't realize they were that inexpensive, thanks!! Yep, definitely better than making one!
Hi John, Thanks for the excellent videos. I've just finished my van conversion and have just ordered one of these heaters. I plan on installing it under the van so my questions is should the air (not for combustion) be drawn from outside the van or inside the van. I can't find anything that says which is preferred but I assume drawing cold air from outside is going to be less efficient as the heater has to warm up colder air but at the same time I'm trying to avoid too many holes through the floor. Any advise?
Also are there any restrictions on the length of the outlet pipe?
Hi EC, it is personal preference as to whether you draw in fresh air or heat recirculated air. Some people love the fresh air doctrine, others want to recirculate.
If you do recirculate you need to leave a hatch or window slightly open or have fresh air ventilation in the van.
It is easier and more efficient to reheat internal air, than to heat cold external air, but these heaters can achieve up to around an 80 dec C temperature increase of incoming air, and in practice, unless you winter in Siberia, the loss of heat efficiency is mostly acceptable.
Good luck with your install. JMcK
what is the I/D of the Copper Pipe Fitting
Another great video. Now it's been established that the longer the intake run a larger diameter hose will be required to eliminate resistance. Is there a limitation to length once a larger intake hose has been installed?.
Thanks for reading John ✌️
Hi Eric,
Sorry, I have not fully tested this. I have tried a 4 metre length of 50 mm (2 in) poly pipe with no apparent issues, and I am sure the heater would run fine in a 1 metre dia water or oil pipe 100 km long.
Aim to keep the intake and exhaust lines as short as possible, and you will have few, or no issues with your heater. JMcK
Excellent series of videos. Would there be a problem with just having a straight intake hose through the floor of a trailer and putting a filter on there? I did not understand if there was a minimum intake length like there is with the exhaust.
Hi David, thanks for the feedback.
That could work, but make sure the exhaust could not melt the intake filter. Probably better to have just a short intake hose with a 90 deg bend under trailer to take intake just a couple of inches away from exhaust. JMcK
First off, as so many have said, thank you so much John, these are top-rate videos and I love how thorough you are.
I do have a question though! What kind of limits are there on the length of the non-combustion / soon-to-be-heated air inlet? Mostly I just want to avoid sucking any diesel exhaust into my camper, and it seems like maybe the easiest way to do that would be to extend the non-combustion air intake pipe away from the source of the exhaust. But I'm not clear on how long I can make that pipe (assuming that there's no pipe on the heated air outlet). I know you haven't tested this but...thoughts?
Hi Aron,
You can increase the inlet air ducting somewhat. Just how long depends on the diameter and restrictions.
If you need to go longer than a couple of meters, increase the ducting size.
Also keep restrictions - bends, turns etc, to a minimum. Air is restricted by bends and turns and roughness in the ducting.
The issue is the fan in these heaters is quite small, with very tiny fins.
Cheers. JMcK
So if I just stick one of those foam air filters on the end of the air intake tube, and the tube is sucking air from outside and underneath my van, then the air filter will be getting wet since i'd be driving and kicking up water. Is that okay? or should have the air intake tube sucking air inside the van? Or something else?
Hi Mr Truth. You need some sort of filter, but why not just use a mesh type if you are not using the heater driving down a dusty road. If you use the heater while in motion are you able to install it with a water deflector?. Better not to install the air intake inside the van as you could get fumes coming back into the van when the heater is turned off or you have a fan issue. The air intake and exhaust are directly connected. JMcK
Hi John, I've commented before but once again thanks a million for these vids they're invaluable. Could you possibly post an ebay/amazon link to a filter you would would recommend?
Hi Allan,
I prefer the gauze air filter. Search “Combustion air filter Eberspacher diesel air heater”
Below is a link to get you started. I try to purchase off a seller with a local (Aus in my case) warehouse.
www.ebay.com.au/itm/25-Mm-Air-Intake-Filter-Hose-Clip-Fit-For-Eberspacher-Webasto-Diesel-Heater-/165237376789?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&_trksid=p2349624.m46890.l49286&mkrid=705-154756-20017-0
Cheers, JMcK
great video, any thoughts on whether or not you should install the air intake on the inside of a cargo van for example...something with many air gaps inside? thanks
Hi K525,
Do you mean the combustion air intake or the heat exchanger air inlet?
If there is ventilation and clean air, in my opinion both or either is ok.
Cheers. JMc
Is there a good reason for the air intake to be from outside the vehicle?
Hi Phil, ...No...It is just personal preference.
Just the same as you can choose recirculating air or outside air to come into your vehicle.
If you recirculate the air the heating is more efficient, but some people like to have fresh air come through the heater. It is personal preference. JMcK
Regarding air induction. Could you take a feed from the hot air outlet and feed it back to the inlet to increase air flow and have a warmer inlet temp
Hi Michael, you could if you want to. But why?
If you want to do this why not recirculate the air from the heated accommodation area.
Whether you heat outside air or recirculate the accommodation air is personal preference.
Just like you can recirculate the air in your motorcar, or choose to heat outside air.
However, if you recirculate, you should have some means of getting fresh air into the accommodation space. Eg a partially open window or air vent. JMcK
How about air bed pump?
Hey john what do you think about pre heating the combustion intake air. Ive heard that placing the air intake next to the exhaust as a way to warm the air helps with efficiency.... Obviously we need fresh air without co2 and whatnot. What are your thoughts?
Hi Thomas, I have not tested this myself so I can not give a definite comment.
However some observations to consider. In combustion incidents, cold dense air is generally better for combustion efficiency that hot less dense air. Eg after coolers on turbo engines to cool the air.
Without me doing actual testing theory seems to say it would be a negative action. JMcK
Hi John. Is any old silicon ok to seal the area around the heating duct pipe? Its for a permanent caravan and annex setup.
Hi Marcus, better to use high temperature silicone if available, otherwise use “neutral cure” any old silicone, not “acid” cure. JMcK
I’m currently watching all your vids so sorry if you say this in a future vid. When I install the heater in my van should I run that air intake under the van outside ? In uk so can be cold in winter. Or should it be inside the van taking in warmer air ? Thank you
Hi Terry, heating outside air or heating inside air is personal preference.
Some people like to heat fresh air, but it is less efficient.
Some people like to recirculate the air. It is more efficient, but you must have a vent or window partly open to get in fresh air. JMcK
Thanks for this brilliant series of videos John. Do you have a link for the plumbing stainless steel mesh fitting you showed for the combustion intake? That looks ideal. I've not seen these in the UK.
Lots available online. Suggest you search “Intake combustion air filter Eberspacher diesel air heater”
Below is just one link to get you going.
www.ebay.com/itm/25mm-Air-Intake-Filter-Silencer-For-Dometic-Eberspacher-Webasto-Diesel-Heater-/364012399292?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&_trksid=p2349624.m46890.l49286&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0
Cheers. JMcK
Hi John, I love your series of Chinese diesel heater videos. You seem to be the most in depth expert out there! I am thinking of upgrading the air intake on my heater as I fit it. Would you recommend a bike filter that has the corrugated metal gauze filter and foam instead of just foam? I’m also concerned about the foam clogging with water (it rains a lot here in the UK!) so I was think of putting a splash plate / cover below the filter whilst leaving a good gap for air to enter the filter without restricting the flow. Is this a good idea?
Hi Graham,
I assume you mean the combustion air intake filter. If so, suggest you only use the simple metal gauze filter. There are many available on line with stainless steel gauze.
The reason for the filter on the combustion intake is to keep the bugs out of the combustion chamber.
Suggest you do not use foam, paper, or any other type of restricting filter as they will restrict the air intake.
These heaters only have a small combustion fan to suck in the combustion air, unlike the pistons in a motorcar.
You restrict the combustion air intake and/or the exhaust of these heaters and you will have a bad fuel air mix and a bad burn, with excessive carbon build up. JMcK
I'm just learning of these heaters, your videos are the best. I'm planning on using one in a travel trailer. Does the main unit need to be inside of the trailer cabin? I would like to have it in a weather proof trunk and just run the outlet into the cabin. Hope that makes sense, thank you.
Hi Randy, nothing wrong with that, in fact that is a good install solution. You can have recirculating heated air, or heated fresh outside air. Suggest you put an insect screen over the inlet air, because the fan will suck in bugs. JMcK
@@johnmck1147 wow, that's good news. Thank you so much for getting back to me with an answer. I enjoy your videos.
you seem to be very knowledgeable guy in combustion-ish things.. so may I ask you please...... if one were to add an HHO gas source to one of these to use primarily as a way to occasionally clean out the combustion chamber or improve combustion when using alternative fuel oils (thinned waist motor oil, thinned waste cooking oils etc...) where would you suggest to fumigate this gas in? am assuming as close to the unit as possible in some area of the air inlet.
Oh Coachgeo, these heaters need to burn clean fuel like diesel or kerosene. Yes, they will run - for a while on oils, but burning oil will really cause excessive carbon buildup in the burn chamber and the atomising screens. Excessive carbon in the burner atomising screen is almost impossible to remove.
But I also understand some people wish to experiment with these heaters as they are now so affordable. But in these cases I am unable to offer advice, for reasons most people would understand. Cheers. JMcK
in the first test the microphone is placed in a location that is now right next to the intake port once the filter is installed....so higher reading. should move db meter farther away for all tests
Hi John, fantastic series of videos, is there a minimum intake length you would suggest, and a maximum intake diameter, many thanks.
Hi Audiguypaul, what intake length to you mean?
You should aim for minimum restrictions to the airflow regardless.
If you refer to combustion air inlet, less than 1 metre using supplied hose would be my goal.
If you refer to heated air inlet, in my opinion, also less than 1 metre using supplied hose.
If you need longer inlet in either situation, go bigger hose, as it creates less air movement restriction, but be realistic and practical. JMcK
Hi Again John, Amazing series really usefull information, after watching this video on Air Intake im going to take your advice and upgrade the inlet hose to 30-32mm that you have recommended, the trouble im having is finding the larger Air Intake filters that you have mentioned that you get from a Plumbers merchant, have you got any links please? so I can find an equivalant here in the UK, If Not would the larger Motorcycle airfilter be suffice? also Im going to change the fuel filter that you also recommended......Many Thanks appreciated
Hi Rockrebel,
If you have a pretty straight run with the combustion air intake it is quite ok to use the 25 mm intake hose that came with the heater.
If you have a longer intake hose, say greater than 1 meter or one with a number of bends, it is better to go to a larger diameter hose.
You can buy ss intake filters for these heaters off eBay. Search for intake filter for diesel air heaters. Here is one source I have bought from.
www.ebay.com.au/itm/Air-Intake-Filter-Silencer-For-25mm-Intake-Manifold-Diesel-Heater-Durable-Tool/283596010270?hash=item4207a3b31e:g:G5AAAOSw0xhdZelm
It is 25 mm diameter so you need an adaptor, just like you need an adaptor to go larger hose on the heater. So you have an adaptor both ends of the larger hose.
The PVC domestic ss filters you can buy from a hardware store or plumbing store. In Aus you would go to a place like Bunnings, or Reece plumbing. I do not know an equivalent in the UK.
I hope this helps. JMcK
@@johnmck1147 really appreciate you taking time out to reply many thanks..
Hi John,
Thanks so much for making these videos and sharing them. I am currently planning an installation on my van and they are proving invaluable. I am a self employed courier who often sleeps in my van and I've realised a diesel heater is a necessity as I'm in the UK!
Can I ask is the exhaust pipe suitable for use as the inlet also (I would buy an additional one)?
Are the inlet and outlet ports on the heater the same outside diameter?
I really don't think the inlet ally tube is up to the job especially as I will be working the van hard for at least 3 years. The length should be well short of 50cm and I will use a suitable filter as it will be under the van.
Hi VOTR,
Yes you could do that, the sizes are the same. Just make sure you use a filter, particularly if outside the van.
Warm sleeps. JMcK
@@johnmck1147 Thanks John, much appreciated. I hope things are well down there, I lived in Perth for a couple of years so have a soft spot for Oz.
Van on the Run
👍
My ear found the noise with the input silencer less objectionable regardless of the db levels. My guess is it attenuates the high frequency sound and thus sounds quieter.
👍
I have a question John. I have this in my van. The air intake and exhaust are terminated outside the van. The van is more or less sealed inside appart from a 9x3inch vent close to the roof. Do I need to worry about oxygen levels? Thanks
Hi AA, I assume you mean the combustion air intake is outside the van. If so, you are not using oxygen from the van for combustion purposes. You also do not say if you have other combustion item in the van like a gas stove or candle lit dinners, or how open the vent and how sealed the van.
Anyway, if it was me I would like to have two vents always open and arranged to give crossflow ventilation. My opinion. JMcK
I was thinking of adding a foam wrap to the existing silencer made from the foam of a Shop Vac wrap and cutting out the baffles on the inside of the cap. What say you on that breathing? I am not to worried about the noise as the heater is mounted outside my camper. I might add the inlet line is only 130mm with one 90 bend using the factory pipe.
Hi W,
There is not much noise coming from the combustion air inlet.
Yes, you could wrap the "silencer with thin foam, but you would need to keep an eye on it if outside the camper that it does not collect dust and then cause restriction in the system.
You need a filter of some sort to keep the bugs out. I just use a simple filter like listed below. There are lots of suppliers, I just quickly did a search for you just now. The exact same intake filters sell from about $4 to $12
www.ebay.com.au/itm/1-Pcs-Air-Intake-Filter-For-25mm-Intake-Manifold-Diesel-Heater-Replacement-Parts/363156751004?_trkparms=aid%3D1110006%26algo%3DHOMESPLICE.SIM%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20200520130048%26meid%3D9fa78d9848b747e5adb8ca0a9394ef10%26pid%3D100005%26rk%3D1%26rkt%3D12%26mehot%3Dco%26sd%3D274337332517%26itm%3D363156751004%26pmt%3D1%26noa%3D0%26pg%3D2047675%26algv%3DSimplAMLv5PairwiseWebWithDarwoV3BBEV2b%26brand%3DUnbranded&_trksid=p2047675.c100005.m1851
Cheers. JMcK
Can the intake be mounted inside cabin? Or theres backfire/fumes possible?
Hi Minivanlife, not sure what intake you are referring to, but it is no issue if you refer to the large intake for heated air, and the combustion air inlet is preferable to be outside, but can also be mounted inside. On boats, both are mounted inside, but either way you need some outside ventilation and a carbon monoxide detector in the accommodation area. Suggest you watch the video about servicing and broken gasket issues. JMcK
is it possible to us an air compression fan to feed forced air into the unit to have cleaner and hotter burn?
No, not normally.
The ECU matches fuel flow to heater fan speed for optimum fuel air mix.
If you are technically minded you could try it, but you would need to go into the locked settings and manually adjust all the fuel settings.
But why bother. With a proper install these heaters run very efficient and with a very clean burn. Note in the videos the CO meter just inches from the exhaust does not register. JMcK
thanks for the video . at first i couldt get my system to start. followed your advice and changed the fuel lines. Couldnt get it too bleed properly but after i had, it still wouldnt start. id primed the system maybe 30 times by this point, still nothing. got under the van and saw diesel coming out of the end of the air intake pipe.. mucky brown half burned diesel. I took the pipe off and it was literally full of the stuff... with the pipe off it started first time... Is the air intake supposed to release unburned diesel out of it!?! Ive contacted the seller, with them just telling me to pay for a new one! Thanks
Hi DD,
Looks like you have flooded the heater. Excess unburnt fuel will drain out either the exhaust or combustion air inlet. If you have a loop in the inlet pipe where diesel can pool, you can not get air into the combustion chamber to start the heater.
This might just be a case of over prime. If the heater started with the intake pipe off run it for a while then put the pipe back on. If you have a loop, drill a small hole at the bottom of the loop to drain out unburnt diesel or moisture condensation.
Please let me know how things go. JMcK
@@johnmck1147 thank you so much John. Will do
Great series of videos. Do you have any concern that a dust filter like you have shown in the video will restrict air input and therefore cause improper combustion? Also wondering if you aware of filters that are dust and weatherproof since I assume a foam filter that is wet is even less likely to allow air through.
Hi Ramzi,
You are correct. I do not use the foam filters that come with some heaters.
The corrugated motorbike air filters get enough airflow and work ok.
I personally only use the ss metal gauze filters.as shown in video. The heater is not operated while driving on dusty dirt roads.
Cheers JMcK
What if I just hose clamped some steel mesh directly over the inlet?
Hi Randy,
That would be a bad move and cause terrible air restrictions. When you have any type of air filter you need large surface area to avoid restrictions.
Why not just install an air filter, easily bought on line or from a motorbike or farm shop. JMcK
the pvc screen vent you show here in this video. what is that for in plumbing/home improvement world........ can't find anything like it online from the big box stores... but Im probably searching by wrong terms.....
Hi Coachgeo, those are plumbing fittings, they go on the ends of PVC pipe for breather vents. Most plumbing stores will sell them. Suggest you take along a photo.
Or you could get one of these off eBay
www.ebay.com.au/itm/Air-Filter-Diesel-Heater-Black-Metal-Plastic-Manifold-Parts-Replacement/153602365113?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649
Cheers, JMcK
got my heater working today ..very pleased at how nice and warm my bus is now ..mine came with the one you show in this video ...my mate thought it was a filter...i was thinking just for now i could use an old stocking stretched over the end of the pipe ...i wont be using it anywhere to dusty ...any thoughts
Hi Kelly,
I have personally not tried using an old stocking so I can't give you a definite answer.
These heaters hate restrictions, and I wonder if the stocking will cause a restriction due to the super fine mesh. Have you considered insect screen?
You can test the stocking yourself. Look carefully at the exhaust before and after using the stocking. If you see any smoke when using the stocking on a high setting you have a rich mixture burn caused by intake air restriction. No smoke - use the stocking.
The filter is needed to stop bugs building nests or getting sucked into the combustion chamber.
I personally use this type of filter below. Search for intake air filter for Eberspacher diesel air heater. I have listed a link below to get you started in your search. The prices for the same item varies greatly.
www.ebay.com.au/itm/1pcs-Air-Intake-Filter-Diesel-Heater-Black-For-Eberspacher-Useful-Durable-/203186116215
Cheers. JMcK
i just had one handy... but until i get the proper part i thought maybe a kitchen sieve or something similar would work better ... and be more robust..thank u for the great channel..ive learnt so much from it ..
kelly melrose
👍
I must firstly how informative your video's are, 1st class. My question is do you need a inlet hose at all can you just put a decent filter as close as you can to the unit? Cheers Martyn
Hi Martyn, first thanks for the feedback.
Yes, you do not need an inlet hose and you can put a filter straight on the unit, but don't let the exhaust burn it. You may need a stub hose or lag the exhaust. JMcK
@@johnmck1147 thanks for the reply why I ask is I have a 2kw Erbaspacher on my boat in UK. Changed ignighter gause and gave it a good clean . When I start it I always run the engine to give it the amperage, it wants to go, blows alot of wispy white greyish smoke then turns bluish but it chuffs
and chokes doesn't quite fire up. So after looking at your videos looks like I need to check air intake and exhaust?
Also worth mentioning I spoke to a webasto engineer, he said I high percentage of non starts are due to bad a bad earth especially on boats. Again fantastic videos . Hope all is well concerning Bush fires. Cheers Martyn
Martyn Randall . Thanks for the feedback Martin. You are wise to check for restrictions in the setup. I would also look at your wire size. On start these heaters draw around 10 amps, low voltage or a long wire run to the heater of thin wire causes a voltage drop and poor glow heat. JMcK
John, I have the same controller used in your demo (part 6 & 8). Can you offer a easy to understand copy of the operation of this controller? I don't understand the translated version that came with my heater.
Hi Rhonda, sorry I missed this post, I get about 40 a week, and occasionally I miss some.
I do not have written instructions for the controllers, but may do a video about this at some future time., but here is a simple start for this blue circle controller.
Turn on a short tap on the centre button. Turn off a long push on centre button until left LED flashes.
Increase temperature manually (my preferred method) push top arrow button up repeatedly to the setting you want. To go lower, push down button repeatedly. Use right button to cycle through some functions such as temperature.
Basic info, but should get you started. JMcK
My question is if the intake hose is not a silencer then why bother with an intake hose why not just put a filter straight onto the heater. thanks for doing these experiments very interesting
Hi Jess, yes, you can do that if the heater is installed in a suitable area. JMcK
John is it all right to run the exhaust pipe 1.2m to the muffler and 400mm past with only one 90 degree bend than you
Hi Denis, you are starting to get to a length where you should consider a larger exhaust, but your set up should still work ok, particularly if exhaust is flat or tilting upwards. The hot exhaust gases expand and like to flow upwards. You will have carbon build up issues if you have a long exhaust running downwards, as the little fan will have issues pushing hot expanding down a long exhaust. JMcK
John, I got a slight wobble in my fan (the plastic outer one). is it of concern?
Hi Rune, a slight wobble in the fan is ok provided the fan does not scrape on the housing, or cause vibration and heater shaking.
Cheers. JMcK
Not knowing what I am talking about, but I am wondering if it would be possible to just mount a filter direct on the air intake?
Hi Fred,
What air intake do you mean?
The main air intake to the heat exchanger? - Yes
The combustion air intake? - Yes and no.
If you have a standard plastic filter, then no. It won't fit in the space, and the exhaust will melt it.
If you have, or can make a long narrow metal filter that can't melt, then yes.
Cheers. JMcK
John, where do I get the intake hose and air filter from, pls?
I have a brand new 5Kw portable Chinese diesel heater which will sit underneath our camper trailer.
I buy all mine online. In your search add the words “for eberspacher diesel air heater” for better results. JMcK
What's the chances of the fumes escaping the combustion chamber into the clean warm intake to the house?
Very remote, but I suggest you watch video on seals and gaskets. JMcK
There wouldn't be a minimum length for air intake, would there? Im picturing that air inlet dropping through my floor just a few inches with the filter hanging on the end, but I'm unsure if there's any reason to get it a bit farther away from the exhaust "header".
Sounds ok Allen, just keep the filter away from the exhaust and perhaps lag the exhaust. JMcK
Have you ever tried to run one of these upside down? With the intake and exhaust coming out the top?
Hi Jimmy, these heaters will run in any position. - FOR A WHILE.
They are designed to be installed with exhaust down.
They can be installed with the exhaust out the side PROVIDED it is the side with the the glow plug on the top.
Running them in other positions cause poor performance, rich running, hard starting, rapid carbon build up, and flooding issues, - for starters.
Cheers. JMcK
Are you confident of the info at the 14:04 mark ? If the metal air inlet is about 1 inch diameter, I dont see how putting a larger air intake hose on that smaller metal intake stem, would result in the unit taking in more air. Wouldnt the amount of air the unit can take in, be restricted by the smallest portion of the air intake thats built into the bottom of the heater ? I would think the only ways to get more air into the system, would be to have a larger air intake built into at the bottom of the heater or installing a more powerful fan unit.
Hi Dave, these heaters only have a very small fan in the combustion chamber that provides two uses. Suck in combustion air and expel exhaust gas. If you have restrictions in these two systems you creat a fuel air mixture issue, which then causes a poor burn, which causes a carbon buildup issue in the burn chamber. If your system requires bends and turns and long lengths in the combustion air inlet pipe, or exhaust pipe, larger diameter reduces the friction and allows freer gas flow. JMcK
John, wouldn't you have to beef up the exhaust to the same dimension as the new air inlet hose as well, otherwise there would be a restriction there too? Say that I went with 35mm intake, the exhaust would have to be 35mm?
Yes Timothy, but you will need to put slits in the ends to be able to clamp it down to the heater exhaust outlet, and you will probably need to use exhaust putty to get a gas seal. JMcK
John McK 47 great John, cheers! I guess high temp silicone wouldnt work instead of exhaust putty?
Hi Timothy, it could be helpful to balance the system but I suspect not absolutely necessary if you have a short exhaust with minimal bends.
The combustion fan sucks in a fixed volume of air, at low pressure dependent on its speed of rotation, it is not like a turbo giving high boost pressure, so it should work as normal.
But I have not tested a heater with different size inlets and exhausts to measure any differences in combustion. Cheers. JMcK
John McK 47 great John, thanks for taking the time to clarify! I'll see what I can find at the local hardware store.
Great video again, thanks a lot John. Would it work to keep the air intake inside the camper and just put the exhaust outside? Would make the install somewhat easier to have just a single hole through the van, plus no chance of the exhaust mixing with the intake...
Hi Ch,
Do you mean the heat exchange air? Yes that is quite ok, and much more efficient. That is personal opinion. I talk about this in the motorhome video.
If you mean the small combustion air inlet. Yes it could be done, and many boat installs do it this way, but the heater is generally out of the way back in the rear of the boat.
However it is better to draw the combustion air from the outside, because it is connected directly to the combustion chamber, and you can get blow back and fuel vapour leakage back out the inlet tube. Also after shut down you can get fumes come back out that inlet tube. This is not something you want to happen inside your van.
Not sure why you would think it easier if you are talking about combustion air. It and exhaust come out bottom of heater through the one gasket. It would be hard to seperate them. JMcK
@@johnmck1147 Thanks for the detailed reply. I just saw this. I have already installed it this way in my van. What made it easier is that I only needed to put one 25mm hole through my floor. But you're right about fumes leaking out of the combustion chamber inlet pipe. I smell diesel occasionally inside the van. I'll have another look at the van and see if I can make a second hole to put the intake outside as well. After reading your reply I understand the logic.
Your videos were a real inspiration to me. I felt extremely well informed about these heaters and have recommended them to several friends as a result of your videos. Thanks a lot for sharing such a great resource, I really appreciate it.
👍
your videos are the best! i live in a camper and have been using the 5kw diesel heater for two years, i configured the heater with a minimum of 0.8hz and 1350rpm and it has been working for a long time but at the outlet i have an annoying smell of unburned diesel and i am afraid that sooner or then the combustion chamber will foul. I have tried different fan speeds with poor results and now I wanted to try changing the 22 pump to the 18 pump making the settings look like the 2kw ones, what do you think? after your video i also want to improve the air intake as you described. I use these settings to save money, I set a temperature and, once it is reached, the heater goes to minimum, this guarantees me a basic consumption of only 2lt of diesel per day. sorry my english, i use google translate
Hi Ceci,
I deliberately have not done any videos on going into the locked ECU settings and changing the manufactures parameters. It is so easy to get into trouble for the average person and there is no reset button.
Yes, you could try the 18 pump and see how that goes.
I like to always run my heaters in manual mode by setting a Hz rate, rather than setting a temperature number on the controller. But that is personal preference. JMcK
@@johnmck1147 Thank you johnmck for your kindness. I understand why you don't post certain videos. Out of curiosity, I tell you that after two years of heating in Hz, I have completely changed my approach. As you can see in the graph, if I sleep and the night temperature drops below a certain level, 0.8 Hz is not enough to keep the temperature, from that moment on, none low (1.1, 1.2, 1.3) and constant settings manage to keep up well with the situation but still lead to almost 50% more consumption in the end. Instead, using the temperature control, as soon as it drops below the set degrees, the stove brings it back up in a few minutes, continuing to take advantage of the camper's thermal inertia and soon returning to the initial 0.8hz. The consumption of those few moments that serve to keep the camper warm are even irrelevant in terms of consumption.
telegra.ph/Temperature-12-03
Thanks for that feedback Ceci. JMcK