Old timer truck driver here, we used to pour the oil from the engine into the fuel tank every time we did a PM, the funnel had a screen to trap the big pieces, never had a single problem. In the winter when gelling was going to be an issue, we'd add gasoline to the fuel because it was cheaper than the anti gel stuff, the idea is just to thin out the diesel just enough so it won't get to thick. And yes, the water into the intake on a running hot engine does clean carbon, the explosive steam breaks up the carbon and then it gets pushed out the tailpipe. The trick though is to use small amounts of water, take a Windex bottle filled with water and spray into the carburetor, or into the PCV on a fuel injected engine, to much at a time and you hydro lock the engine, engine has to be hot though, and at a higher rpm, 1500-2000 does the trick.
dumping poorly filtered waste oil down an old mechanical injector with huge tolerances is fine for sure, but dumping poorly filtered oil down a modern injector and especially a high pressure multistage system is a great idea if you love spending money troubleshooting and rebuilding your fuel system or paying a mechanic. are you really old? your english seems childlike?
I am still taking the oil out of my DDec 3 60 series Detroit and putting it in the diesel tank. I have some concern about the injectors poking up but I’m only doing this when I change the oil. Hi do oil sampling and fuel dilution in my oil is the reason I change it when I do anyways. So usually when I dump it in it’s already 6% diesel. No issues yet and have been doing it for about five years on this truck. I do the oil sample and bypass filter change at 15 to 20,000 miles and then dump the oil out at 30 to 40. Usually I wait a week and drive about 2000+ miles and then change the fuel filters after I’ve run the oil through.
If I was broken down on the side of the road I would much rather have this CZcamsr show up to help than the guys here with the negative comments. I would know who would get me on the road and who wouldn't.
The shop I worked at for ten years never had a separate tank for coolant, atf, oil, gas, diesel, or anything else. All of it went into one tank for disposal. Something to consider if you are asking a shop for their "used oil"
@@chadwilliams41 people say oil and water don't mix. I say, what's that brown stuff I've been pouring in the disposal tank from all of the cars I worked on with blown head gaskets then? Maybe most of the water will settle out but what about the ATF, solvents, brake fluid, etc? Maybe you've got good filters and a good system of how you recycle it but if you saw the stuff we put in those tanks you'd think twice.
Isn’t that why he filters 5 gallons at a time through a bedsheet? I wish he showed what the bedsheet strained out. Maybe a clear glass of what’s coming out of the first tank & what’s coming out of the ‘filtered tank’…… Diesel trucks are almost ‘Cowboy Cadillacs’ nowadays! A friend who loves his truck, pays $90 for oil changes! I doubt that pint of gas mixed with sludge would work in that fancy truck! Even if it did, you’d have a hard time trying to convince him to put that in his tank at all. And he’s suffering from paying for that Expen$ive Die$el! He drives that big Azz truck daily to work and around to get materials for work & is filling that thing up at about $75 twice a week!!! But he needed one that he could put a fifth wheel in the bed of for his RV. Wonder what gas mileage he gets when he’s pulling that thing! It was a week or so before his friend was around to help him take the fifth wheel out of his truck bed. The truck eats gas with that in the bed, because it’s so heavy! Here in our state, one third of a gallon goes to taxes for infrastructure. The people driving in the roads are the ones who want better roads, complain about pot holes! But the governor lowered the tax on food, groceries a 1%…. Something is really wrong when people cannot afford decent food, especially for growing kids, who need to be able to concentrate in school. They are out future, unless everyone gets mad enough to send out the bombs they have. It’s enough to totally destroy our earth….. TRUMP 2024….🙏🏼
Eventually the different fluids separate to their respective "specific gravity" a bed sheet isn't nearly enough to filter out the junk those tanks will have. Best option is a settling tank, pull from the top, run it through a centrifuge after a dual filtration system like a mesh filter first with a filtermag installed then through a Frantz oil filter. That's going to remove almost all particulate matter, and will remove any residual water at the same time.
Ironically this is as environmentally friendly as it gets. 1. Industry burns oil to dispose of it. If you burn it in a diesel you are still burning it. 2. The oil is used twice so you get twice the use out of the same product. 3. If it wasn't burned this way the truck would have to use diesel to drive and the Oil would still get burned somewhere else to dispose of it. So running black diesel is environmentally friendly. I've been thinking on doing this for my 01 F350 since it's pretty expensive here in Arizona, but not like in California crazy expensive, those people are crazy for voting Demoncrats into office. Thanks for sharing. Best Wishes & Blessings. Keith Noneya
They are not voting those people into office. Voting machines and ballot harvesting keeps those officials in office. You see it in California but its Happening in your state and getting worse. If Newsome becomes your president you will have lost your country entirely.
Everyone in California is rich, so they can afford to pay an extra dollar or two for gas. The price of gas therefore isn’t their primary concern. Obviously in the poverty ridden red states, the price of fuel is their primary concern. But politicians have no control over the price of fuel, so it has nothing to do with red vs. blue. The oil companies and refineries control the price of fuel. They prefer higher prices, because higher prices means more profits. It’s their duty to their shareholders to maximize profits.
@@terjeoseberg990 I'm pretty sure the local State Governments have a lot to do with the price of fuel in those states. It's call regulation, permits, fees and taxes. Also the prevailing condition of the future market will also make the companies raise or lower the prices based on whether or not the market is going to be friendly in the future and what the companies it will need in capital to fight the local & state governments in court. California for instance wants to ban all fossil fuel vehicles in the state, so much so that SEMA and other automotive groups and citizens are suig the state and there's even bills in congress to stop them from doing that. Yeah Local and State Governments can effect the price of fuel.
@@keithnoneya, The local government has very little to do with the price of fuel. The oil companies set the prices and they tell the gas station what they have to charge. They determine the prices. They obviously charge more in rich neighborhoods than poor neighborhoods because they can. California is a wealthy state full of rich neighborhoods. That’s why fuel costs more in California. Despite the high price of fuel, the freeways are still packed.
Great presentation.. I appreciate how you talk to us in layman terms.. no tech BS, just plain talk. Also the tips about saving money on equipment is a plus.. Subscribed
I used a transfer pump filter kit from Amazon. I think it was $40. It bolts to a hand pump that goes in my 55 gallon drum. The cool thing is that it uses the same fuel filter as my Cummins, so I can repurpose my old filters to clean up my used motor oil!
If properly filtered and diluted that would definitely work for a diesel with electrical fuel pump/ injectors . I work on heavy equipment and Im always left with mostly 5 gallons of w10, w32 or ATF, so I throw it in my 7.3PSD. I dilute it with Kerosene. I haven’t used gas yet but I will try it when I get another left over batch of oil. Also make sure to pay attention to your EGT’s that will determine if your mix is to lean.
I’m looking at doing this on my 97 f250HD with the 7.3 powerstroke . How are you filtering the oil. Hui injectors ok with the mix? It’s a mechanical lift pump. Have you had any issues?
@@cajun3197 my mix I should have said is for a common rail also I described how to properly filter the oil so it can be run in a common rail but someone deleted it
A word of advice, we did this back in 08 when diesel was high then, but having a 02 7.3 power stroke, the mixture deteriorated the orings. They became gummy. Then I simply went with a mixture of cleaned used engine oil and pump diesel accordingly to seasonal temperatures. Orings are designed to stop leakage according to the type of fluids that they are designed for. An example is using a gas hose for a fuel line on a diesel or a transmission line. It will make it soft. Diesels with steel injection lines and copper seals had no issues.
@@Failure_Is_An_Option I'm sorry it is not. Seen too many gas lines put on diesels and breakdown because of the petroleum in diesel. And gas hoses being put on transmissions for oil lines. It'll ruin thousands of dollars!
Idk what kind of funds your dealing with but if you run a hand crank pump with a filter in the hose it will probably be cleaner and you could do it with the barrel up right. You could also add the gas first to thin it and make it easier to pump
I have used small amount of motor oil to start diesels that have run out of fuel, but now always carry WD40 put directly into the intake . It appears the major concern here is #1 filtration , #2 carbon . I am told that Ford fuel filter is rated at 5 micron but I don’t know at what percent efficiency, so centrifuges seem to be the answer . #2 a , The carbon; every diesel operator should be putting injector cleaner into every tank of fuel , as a continual maintenance measure . #2b, a water methanol injection system will be continually dispelling the carbon . Such systems are sold by Gail Banks of California & others . My father was a WW2 aircraft engine mechanic & he said they used water , observed during takeoff when the smoke turned from black to gray . I saw him many times slowly pour water from a 7oz pop bottle into the carburetor as he cranked the throttle wide open -3or 4 times & pour in enough to cause the engine to falter, cleaning the carbon of the valves
I have a Ahl VW. I pony pumped the oil mixed with some gas through a big hydraulic filter then a water/oil filter then a water filter . It filled up a 45 gal drum. Then pump this into the car . I dump some sea foam in VW tank once in a while to clean . I mix this 60/40 and prob 50/50 in summer. If you want … every once in a while. Take input and return hoses off filter and stick them into a 3/4 full seafoam jug mixed with oven cleaner. ( I just spray some into can ) then run engine till the can is almost empty. This cleans injectors and stuff. Shut car off and hook input up to filter. use a vacuum sucky thingy to bring fuel from tank through your fuel system draw fuel out your return .hook fuel return up to filter . Starts better. I also mix boron nitrite and borax in my motor oil. AND it’s in tranny and wheel bearings. No joke. Hit the laugh track. Thx. It all works for me. 400000 kms on AHL and 50 - 60 mpg imperial .
the notsogrand garage channel sells a very fast transfer pump for for around $100 . you can make your own from a chevy oil pump . if you just want something to load drums , an 8 foot 2x4 and some wide steel pallet strapping will make an oil filter wrench style tool to roll drums (doesn't work w/plastic drums) up your ramps .
I’m 43 years old lol. No old timer. I’ve put a hose full open right into my old Volvo engine while it was full throttle. The top of the motor blew out all the dirt and black deposits out of it. We made that engine spotless inside lol. No joke it works 👊😎 That pump was funny
might be worth looking into a hho generator to keep your valves clean, and increase h.p. and m.p.g. You are on the money with what your doing. some of us old timers been doing this for a very long time. We just keep quite about about it. We do oil changes on the side for free, and also heat our homes using diesel heaters. Best of luck. Looks like your doing a fine job.
Yes it definitely makes it much easier to filter and comes out much cleaner after you have thoroughly mixed petrol with it and leaving it for a couple of days to settle out more carbon molecules.
I know of a salvage yard that has a used oil heater. They mix antifreeze, old gas, transmission fluid, gear oil all together. They have to drain some water out of it then they pump it into a tank and use compressed air . This is a factory built oil burning heater. They just filter it through a screen.
Thank you for the info! You can use acetone instead of water. Mix with the oil 3oz per 10 gallons. It will clean the valves, help the fuel atomize better and clean the piston sleeves.
Get yourself a 5 micron sock filter. Horror Freight has rubber impeller water pumps cheap. I believe they sell them in both 12 and 120 volt versions. When you can afford it, get the little giant version of those pumps. (Way better). And depending on your area, I'd invest in a drum heater. And also wrap your storage drum with an insulation. It makes filtering easier. I used to make biodiesel. And warm oil flows much easier. One thing you need to avoid is plastic drums. Stick with steel. If you can afford stainless steel do it. Most waste oil drums are left outside and they get water inside. You definitely don't want a drum rusting out. Especially if you have a heater on it. Anyway I ran fish tank bubbler's in my tanks to de water them. I kept my oil at 110 degrees. And it cleared out the water quickly. It's up to you to be safe. Research everything before you experiment.
If you are doing the water trick, the engine needs to be hot, have it throttled up to about 2000rpm for a gas motor or about 1500rpm for diesel, use DISTILLED water about a cap full, the rpm will drop and when it evens out do it again, about 4-5 times usually. Watch your exhaust for crap blowing out when it cleans up your done.
I’d say the air diaphragm pumps/filters might be a bit cumbersome of a system. Seems to me like you could build a little “water tower” by putting a barrel high enough to feed your bulk tank with filter in line. You would only need a single oil transfer pump that can to that head height. Pull up with the full barrel, pump the oil up high, unload empty barrel and let gravity do the rest. If you want to store more oil in barrels you can run a t off the pump and put valves on either end, one to tower, one to barrel, that way you can still always unload empty barrels out of your truck.
In an idi engine the combustion chamber is separated from the cylinder so it can maintain high pressure longer for a complete burn. If you want to rev high or have a slow low pressure injection system the idi design fixes the problem of losing compression as the piston goes down. Those old Mercedes 5 cylinders rev to 5k for instance on 1970s idi tech. Common rail systems are super high pressure to get fuel into the engine as fast as possible before the piston starts to go down. The high viscosity of motor oil may be an issue. Im sure someone has test data on it but i don't know.
@@mp-xt2rg run a little water, DEF, or dirt through one. Try running some home brew black diesel through one. Try running one without a PCM. While a mechanical pump might have move moving parts inside, it is less complicated, and less dependent than a common rail system, which offers better power output, lower emissions, and inproved economy, but move vulnerability. NO diesel likes water, or other contaminants, but a CP4 failure costs more than a roosa master and 8 poppet injectors, 7 ways to Sunday......
@@jamesgeorge4874 try running a CR without a ecm? I would counter with try running a mechanical pump without a cam. Of course systems won't work if you remove major components. Just because you don't understand something doesn't mean it's worse. You know the pump technology is essentially the same correct? The pumps are just simpler on cr engines because they don't handle timing.
Pretty neat setup. I have an LB7 Duramax. When I do an oil change or have used fry oil I just dump it into my tank. I’ve got over 500,000km on that engine
@@A2ZREY you could. I wouldn’t do 100% though. Mixing with diesel will always make sure you have the cetane present and help with viscosity. Another factor is ambient temp. Summer makes it easier to burn oil. If you have cold winter, use higher % diesel to oil
Blue jeans material filters pretty consistantly to 20 micron, i used to get 3' long, 6" diameter 5 micron sock filters for $6 10 years ago, so they are probably $20 now like everything else (crying sounds) but if you pre filter through old blue jeans, the sock filters last a long time. I also did a settling period, id let my drums of wmo and let them sit for a week or so, so the water would selttle to the bottom, and then you just dont suck uo the part thats "below the label on tbe 40oz malt beverage" so to speak, hah.
I have a complete system with settling tanks and a centrifuge. I’m looking to get rid of it since it was too time consuming for me to keep up with. I made black diesel for 7 years. Made the same specific gravity, viscosity, and flash point as pump diesel.
you don't need multiple tanks an pumps to filter, you can gravity wick filter instead, sit a 55g drum on anther drum(for height) fill it an run a fiber rope threw a 2 inch clear hose down to a second 55g drum at ground level the waste oil will wick along the rope an into the second drum filtering it as it wicks along the rope, scale it up as you like to suit your set up but the less moving parts the better an cheaper then just pump from that filtered drum into your main holding supply.....
@@rudychacon7175 nylon/hemp/synthetic rope all work, get a glass of water put a rag half in half out hanging below the glass an leave it, you'll see the water wick out of the glass till it gets to the end of the rag where it'll start dripping, as the water wicks it's also filtered at the same time..... using the rope instead the hose keeps the area mostly clean it also helps the gravity pull along the rope......
I do this myself but i seriously recomend filting it as well as you can. The better you filter it, the better it will run. Also plan on running some sort of injector cleaner once in a while
Thats exactly what im trying to find out. I had the brainstorm today about making my own for my lb7. Im thinking that as long as i thin it out enought it shoudl be fine (i have an aftermarket lift pump so it would help filter it more, as well as filtering when i mix)
thanks for the video, I had never heard of black diesel, but I was looking into small diesel heaters and this came up, when I get one I'll definitely have to give it a try
I always had good performance with pre filtered WMO down to 5 microns ran through a water separator. Then cut with 15% 87 octane. Kubota engines love it .
There should also be chemical valve cleaner that you spray into the air intake of the engine. That is, which is made for diesel engines. Then there is also a cleaning chemical that you put in the oil and gas for 15 minutes and then replace the oil filter. Then, of course, there are also cleaning chemicals that you put in the diesel tank. Note that it must be made for the purpose
20% unleaded gasoline 80% filtered to 1 micron and dewatered used motor oil is what I have used for many (10 plus) years to fuel a Ford 7.3 IDI and a 2 cylinder stationary deutz diesel that I use to spin 2 semi truck alternators to charge a battery bank that powers my off grid home...
Does your IDI cold start on oil? Mine won't, but I'm not adding gasoline. I use a 1 micron sock filter inside a piece of metal duct sitting on top of a bucket, I use the oil in a 7.3 IDI. I keep diesel fuel in the front tank, oil in the rear. Near the end of a drive I switch to diesel, it takes a few minutes for the oil to be replaced with diesel. After a few years it had severely gunked up combustion chambers and injectors, to the point where it would barely start and it smoked a lot all the time whether on diesel or oil. The pump may have also been screwed up. It was already running a little rough when I got it, but I'm pretty sure the oil did a fair bit of damage. The upside is that I saved enough on fuel to more than pay for a complete engine. I sold the van (at a profit) and got another one. My latest one ran beautifully when I got it, it has a reman engine that appeared to be pretty fresh, but I got no history with the vehicle. It didn't take very long to start seeing the effects of running oil, it runs fine, but it smokes a fair bit on either fuel type. I may start adding gas and see what happens.
Sure would have been nice if you would have fired her up. Love to hear those 7.3’s run. It’s my understanding that those engines are NavStars by International Harvester. So basically a tractor engine in a truck. Thanks!
Ya when we put the water in the carb to clean the valves and pistons they put 1qt trany fluid in a gallon bottle and filled it the rest of the way with water then they poured it in the carb, This created a steam with a acid type cleaning to break down hard carbon. then when you take the motor apart you would see everything inside, Valves, Pistons, Walls would all look like brand new. Works great. Oh ya you pour it in to a wam motor not hot or cold, so let the motor run a minute or two from a cold start then pour it in.
Nice low-cost setup. Here's a tip that might be useful: If you have a large upright container standing next to your strained oil-barrel, you can fix a small electric pump running on a single lttle solar panel between them, which will slowly pump the oil from your filter-barrel to your large upright gravity-feeding container. Zero electric cost. Just make sure you have a little flotation switch inside the filter barrel to switch off the pump when it's running empty Cheers! :)
hey guys, i specialized in engine rebuilds for over thirty-five years, what the youtuber is saying is true. i have done the same thing myself. if you really want to improve this technique mix add hot water or cold and let sit for a time. then filter if you like and drain into a clean container. it would be better if you add a magnet to the funneling system to catch the smaller particles just in case. hope this helps.
Getting free waste oil, automotive or or cooking is tough in cold climates, cannot speak for your region, but here, it's too valuable. As a technician, I save clean, low mileage motor oil from vehicles I service, at least a couple dozen that accumulate a few hundred miles between changing, I use some for black diesel, some for my plow rig crankcase, some for bar and chain oil, some for my drip oil burner in my garage. I mix my black diesel 50/50 with pump diesel, and have no problems. I run a '90 IDI 7.3 also.
Normally on the coast ,this stuff is called bunker oil for the ships to run on. Id be careful of the shop you get this from and seperate and filter the hell out of it then mix it with like 10% kerosene/jet fuel to thin it for flow, maybe some processed veggie oil with the glycerin out. Diesels aren't super finicky but a bad batch of fuel can get real expensive real quick
Bunker oil is not the same as used engine oil - the only similarities are the colour, and both are hydrocarbons of course. The big difference is in the physical properties - at room temperature, bunker oil is a thick black tar, barely one step above the shit they mix with gravel to make asphalt for road surfaces, which is basically solid at room temperature. Bunker oil was originally used as a substitute for coal to fire the boilers on steam ships. It got its name from the practice of modifying the coal bunkers on those ships so they could be filled with the oil instead. It can be used in some diesel engines, but generally only the humungous, 3-storey high monster engines used in the similarly humungous container ships. Those engines are something to behold - they have crankcases so big that you can walk around inside them, valves bigger than dinner plates and pistons more than twice the diameter of truck tyres. Even so, the fuel needs to be kept in well insulated tanks and steam heated just to melt it enough to pump through the fuel injectors. There's no way you could ever use that kind of fuel in a diesel engine on a car or truck - unless you diluted it a lot with something much lighter weight and less viscous.
Have you ever thought about distilling your old motor oil. I start my still off using propane to get the fire going and the distillation process going, Then after it is going I take the waist gas and use it for the fuel for the fire of the still making it a clean process. In the end I have actual diesel fuel.
When I worked at a lube shop I always told the guys this is what I was gonna do with our big tank of waste oil. No one knew what the hell I was talking about
Getting a Centrifuge of 9500 rpm. Will be running 4 2002 vw golf tdi alh. One of those engines is set up with 5 of those 255 amp gm alternators to charge my lipo4 battery bank at the camp.
search "Up flow system". No pump needed for some basic gunk removal. (two bung drum- fill into top drum thru raised inlet thru one bung.. as drum is full and reaches top... it flows/spills out of second bung's piping, into one bung of neighbor drum (leaving sediment at bottom of fill drum). that drum fills to top (again leaving sediment in bottom) and again exits its other bung piping into a bung of a third drum to fill that one.. (repeat with as many drums you have..... more drums the better.) Your good most clean oil comes from the top of last drum in the chain. // You will need sediment clean out system (valved drain) at bottom edge of each drum to clean the yucky sediment out of bottom of each drum). Later if you add a filter system with actual filters (or centrifuge) your filters will last longer since good bit of yucky stuff is in bottom of each drum in the up flow chain of drums. there is ways to get fancier but way to complicated to explain in a reply.
I use an upflow filter system for veg oil but any more than one drum is unnecessary . Using a length of 2" exhaust pipe running through the 2" nipple that connects the small loading drum to the settling drum the oil is delivered slowly to the bottom of the settling drum . By the time it reaches the top and starts to dribble through a clear hose into the three bag filters over the finishing drum ( 25/5/1 micron , one inside the other ) it's already pretty clear . Using additional intermediate drums only ties up oil supplies and space .
i bought a cheap 12 v harbor freight pump . i stick one end in my barrel and the other goes to a sock filter above a funnel straight into my tank . i use veggie oil , im concerned with metal shavings in used motor oil . i buy the sock filters at dudda diesel online . ive run over 100 k miles total with this system . i had a 96 ford 7.3 , i ran veggie oil off and on for about 50k miles and the motor died at 202k which scares me a bit that i killed it early with wvo but im not a mechanic so not sure
Put one barrel over anothe then get a hemp rope and wick the oil thru it to the lower barrel,its not fast but the end product is clean oil all the black stays in the rope. Put your barrels on the sunny side of the shop
I need people like you in my life ! Helpful, honest , and a good overall person taking time out of his life , just to help others ! My kind of people! Good job Sr.🤝 thank you!!
do you think black diesel would work fine with a heating oil furnace? everywinter it cost me like 1200 dollars to fill 300 gallons in my damn tank and im sick of it
Water in your carburetor does work there are machines and chemical solutions to tech up the process but at home a simple mister spray bottle and regular old h20
Hi how long have you done it this method for please? And how much does your truck smoke? I run it 50/50 oil diesel and smokes loads but I don't mix it before I put it in didn't Realise I had too lol
You probably don’t half to mix it, but I think it is a good thing to do. I did it for a year and it worked good in. Mine did not smoke anymore then if I ran normal diesel in it.
Could this process be used to make home heating oil? Used Motor oil mixed with kerosene or gasoline to thin it down and have heating oil for your home oil burner driven heat for way cheaper than 3.798 a gallon? I have about 15 gallons of hydraulic oil and old motor oil I was going to bring back to the auto parts store to get rid of but now I’m curious if I can make 57 bucks worth of heating oil for less than the price of 1 gallon of gasoline? That’s a 50 dollar savings just for 15 gallons
Probably yes. I always used to just dump my used motor oil in the heating oil tank. I never gave it any thought, nor worked out any ratios, but as I was adding about 3 litres of thicker hydrocarbon to over 500 litres of thin hydrocarbon, usually already laced with anti gelling agent, because I was always running winter grade diesel anyway, so I was making a minute difference to the fuel reaching the burner. However, burners are very primitive technology and as long as the oil can be pushed through the orifice at enough pressure to atomise, it will ignite in the arc and burn well. There’s usually an inspection port and if you can see a blue flame through that, you’re good. If it’s yellow, then you have too much fuel for the available air and you may need to reduce the flow rate, or use a smaller orifice. There’s far less to go wrong and the cost is much lower than trying it in a common rail electronic injection engine, if something does go wrong. Also, burning at atmospheric pressure is easier to inspect and tweak, to make sure you’re getting the best blue flame. At high pressure, the chemicals can separate out and not burn at the same rate, resulting in unburnt product entering the exhaust, so not something to do on an engine with a dpf. But yes, in principle, any hydrocarbon fuel can be used in an atmospheric pressure burner and it’s probably more eco friendly than what the recycling centre will do with it, while charging you for doing it.
As far as a pump to pump your waste oil through a set of filters, I would simply find an old oil pump out of an engine..... Something like out of a 258-6 AMC that that has a shaft that runs off the cam gear and simply put a drill on it and plumb As necessary.
I notice my fuel filter gets plugged up and my fuel pressure to the injector pump goes down when I put even a quart of WMO in the tank of my 24v Cummins (2001 Dodge)
Old timer truck driver here, we used to pour the oil from the engine into the fuel tank every time we did a PM, the funnel had a screen to trap the big pieces, never had a single problem. In the winter when gelling was going to be an issue, we'd add gasoline to the fuel because it was cheaper than the anti gel stuff, the idea is just to thin out the diesel just enough so it won't get to thick. And yes, the water into the intake on a running hot engine does clean carbon, the explosive steam breaks up the carbon and then it gets pushed out the tailpipe. The trick though is to use small amounts of water, take a Windex bottle filled with water and spray into the carburetor, or into the PCV on a fuel injected engine, to much at a time and you hydro lock the engine, engine has to be hot though, and at a higher rpm, 1500-2000 does the trick.
dumping poorly filtered waste oil down an old mechanical injector with huge tolerances is fine for sure, but dumping poorly filtered oil down a modern injector and especially a high pressure multistage system is a great idea if you love spending money troubleshooting and rebuilding your fuel system or paying a mechanic. are you really old? your english seems childlike?
@@byloyuripka9624did he say he did it on modern diesels?
The vortex 4.3 water trick😅😅😅😅
I have a 2000 7.3 and pore it straight in the tank 5 gal diesel 5 gal oil 5 gal diesel no problem so far
I am still taking the oil out of my DDec 3 60 series Detroit and putting it in the diesel tank. I have some concern about the injectors poking up but I’m only doing this when I change the oil. Hi do oil sampling and fuel dilution in my oil is the reason I change it when I do anyways. So usually when I dump it in it’s already 6% diesel. No issues yet and have been doing it for about five years on this truck.
I do the oil sample and bypass filter change at 15 to 20,000 miles and then dump the oil out at 30 to 40. Usually I wait a week and drive about 2000+ miles and then change the fuel filters after I’ve run the oil through.
If I was broken down on the side of the road I would much rather have this CZcamsr show up to help than the guys here with the negative comments. I would know who would get me on the road and who wouldn't.
Seriously. It's guys like this who actually get shit done.
The shop I worked at for ten years never had a separate tank for coolant, atf, oil, gas, diesel, or anything else. All of it went into one tank for disposal. Something to consider if you are asking a shop for their "used oil"
The only thing I worry is coolant but oil don’t mix with coolant. So you just suck from the top
@@chadwilliams41 people say oil and water don't mix. I say, what's that brown stuff I've been pouring in the disposal tank from all of the cars I worked on with blown head gaskets then? Maybe most of the water will settle out but what about the ATF, solvents, brake fluid, etc? Maybe you've got good filters and a good system of how you recycle it but if you saw the stuff we put in those tanks you'd think twice.
Isn’t that why he filters 5 gallons at a time through a bedsheet?
I wish he showed what the bedsheet strained out.
Maybe a clear glass of what’s coming out of the first tank & what’s coming out of the ‘filtered tank’……
Diesel trucks are almost ‘Cowboy Cadillacs’ nowadays! A friend who loves his truck, pays $90 for oil changes! I doubt that pint of gas mixed with sludge would work in that fancy truck! Even if it did, you’d have a hard time trying to convince him to put that in his tank at all. And he’s suffering from paying for that Expen$ive Die$el! He drives that big Azz truck daily to work and around to get materials for work & is filling that thing up at about $75 twice a week!!! But he needed one that he could put a fifth wheel in the bed of for his RV. Wonder what gas mileage he gets when he’s pulling that thing! It was a week or so before his friend was around to help him take the fifth wheel out of his truck bed. The truck eats gas with that in the bed, because it’s so heavy!
Here in our state, one third of a gallon goes to taxes for infrastructure. The people driving in the roads are the ones who want better roads, complain about pot holes!
But the governor lowered the tax on food, groceries a 1%…. Something is really wrong when people cannot afford decent food, especially for growing kids, who need to be able to concentrate in school. They are out future, unless everyone gets mad enough to send out the bombs they have. It’s enough to totally destroy our earth….. TRUMP 2024….🙏🏼
Eventually the different fluids separate to their respective "specific gravity" a bed sheet isn't nearly enough to filter out the junk those tanks will have. Best option is a settling tank, pull from the top, run it through a centrifuge after a dual filtration system like a mesh filter first with a filtermag installed then through a Frantz oil filter. That's going to remove almost all particulate matter, and will remove any residual water at the same time.
@@inspireonex your injectors will just be cleaner
Ironically this is as environmentally friendly as it gets. 1. Industry burns oil to dispose of it. If you burn it in a diesel you are still burning it. 2. The oil is used twice so you get twice the use out of the same product. 3. If it wasn't burned this way the truck would have to use diesel to drive and the Oil would still get burned somewhere else to dispose of it. So running black diesel is environmentally friendly. I've been thinking on doing this for my 01 F350 since it's pretty expensive here in Arizona, but not like in California crazy expensive, those people are crazy for voting Demoncrats into office. Thanks for sharing. Best Wishes & Blessings. Keith Noneya
They are not voting those people into office. Voting machines and ballot harvesting keeps those officials in office. You see it in California but its Happening in your state and getting worse. If Newsome becomes your president you will have lost your country entirely.
This is called “recycling”.
Everyone in California is rich, so they can afford to pay an extra dollar or two for gas. The price of gas therefore isn’t their primary concern.
Obviously in the poverty ridden red states, the price of fuel is their primary concern. But politicians have no control over the price of fuel, so it has nothing to do with red vs. blue. The oil companies and refineries control the price of fuel. They prefer higher prices, because higher prices means more profits. It’s their duty to their shareholders to maximize profits.
@@terjeoseberg990 I'm pretty sure the local State Governments have a lot to do with the price of fuel in those states. It's call regulation, permits, fees and taxes. Also the prevailing condition of the future market will also make the companies raise or lower the prices based on whether or not the market is going to be friendly in the future and what the companies it will need in capital to fight the local & state governments in court. California for instance wants to ban all fossil fuel vehicles in the state, so much so that SEMA and other automotive groups and citizens are suig the state and there's even bills in congress to stop them from doing that. Yeah Local and State Governments can effect the price of fuel.
@@keithnoneya, The local government has very little to do with the price of fuel. The oil companies set the prices and they tell the gas station what they have to charge. They determine the prices. They obviously charge more in rich neighborhoods than poor neighborhoods because they can.
California is a wealthy state full of rich neighborhoods. That’s why fuel costs more in California. Despite the high price of fuel, the freeways are still packed.
magnets on the bed sheet could be a good and cheap idea. they can catch very small metal shavings the sheet can't catch
Magnets will only work on ferrous metal's, Bearing metals aren't ferrous.
Great presentation.. I appreciate how you talk to us in layman terms.. no tech BS, just plain talk. Also the tips about saving money on equipment is a plus.. Subscribed
I used a transfer pump filter kit from Amazon. I think it was $40. It bolts to a hand pump that goes in my 55 gallon drum. The cool thing is that it uses the same fuel filter as my Cummins, so I can repurpose my old filters to clean up my used motor oil!
after that you can use it as a silencer for your ar
@@montneymon-ta-knee6810 You're right!! Triple use! Talk about saving the environment!
Do you have any injection pump heater block
If properly filtered and diluted that would definitely work for a diesel with electrical fuel pump/ injectors . I work on heavy equipment and Im always left with mostly 5 gallons of w10, w32 or ATF, so I throw it in my 7.3PSD. I dilute it with Kerosene. I haven’t used gas yet but I will try it when I get another left over batch of oil. Also make sure to pay attention to your EGT’s that will determine if your mix is to lean.
What ratio of oil to kerosene are you using
I’m looking at doing this on my 97 f250HD with the 7.3 powerstroke . How are you filtering the oil. Hui injectors ok with the mix? It’s a mechanical lift pump. Have you had any issues?
Definitely don’t go over 5% gas
@@Justthemow the mix for kerosene is 33.3/66.6 kerosene/wmo 20/80 gas/wmo
@@cajun3197 my mix I should have said is for a common rail also I described how to properly filter the oil so it can be run in a common rail but someone deleted it
A word of advice, we did this back in 08 when diesel was high then, but having a 02 7.3 power stroke, the mixture deteriorated the orings. They became gummy. Then I simply went with a mixture of cleaned used engine oil and pump diesel accordingly to seasonal temperatures. Orings are designed to stop leakage according to the type of fluids that they are designed for. An example is using a gas hose for a fuel line on a diesel or a transmission line. It will make it soft. Diesels with steel injection lines and copper seals had no issues.
@@Failure_Is_An_Option I'm sorry it is not. Seen too many gas lines put on diesels and breakdown because of the petroleum in diesel. And gas hoses being put on transmissions for oil lines. It'll ruin thousands of dollars!
@@Failure_Is_An_Option czcams.com/video/HRb3NNm-6Ps/video.html&si=kwY6YkNM1lQNBxKz
I bet you're going through fuel filters much faster than normal. I would definitely recommend filtering that a few more times.
Could attach an oil filter to the output.
@@terjeoseberg990 I wonder if a cheap harbor freight transfer pump and a couple of lines and filters from mcmaster carr would be worth it.
Filters are expensive gravity is free. Just let it settle for months.
Idk what kind of funds your dealing with but if you run a hand crank pump with a filter in the hose it will probably be cleaner and you could do it with the barrel up right. You could also add the gas first to thin it and make it easier to pump
Thank you for this video! Very simple and easy to understand! Lots of very helpful info
I have used small amount of motor oil to start diesels that have run out of fuel, but now always carry WD40 put directly into the intake .
It appears the major concern here is #1 filtration , #2 carbon . I am told that Ford fuel filter is rated at 5 micron but I don’t know at what percent efficiency, so centrifuges seem to be the answer .
#2 a , The carbon; every diesel operator should be putting injector cleaner into every tank of fuel , as a continual maintenance measure .
#2b, a water methanol injection system will be continually dispelling the carbon . Such systems are sold by Gail Banks of California & others .
My father was a WW2 aircraft engine mechanic & he said they used water , observed during takeoff when the smoke turned from black to gray . I saw him many times slowly pour water from a 7oz pop bottle into the carburetor as he cranked the throttle wide open -3or 4 times & pour in enough to cause the engine to falter, cleaning the carbon of the valves
Very good video. Great way to get rid of used oil. Thanks!
I have a Ahl VW. I pony pumped the oil mixed with some gas through a big hydraulic filter then a water/oil filter then a water filter . It filled up a 45 gal drum. Then pump this into the car . I dump some sea foam in VW tank once in a while to clean . I mix this 60/40 and prob 50/50 in summer. If you want … every once in a while. Take input and return hoses off filter and stick them into a 3/4 full seafoam jug mixed with oven cleaner. ( I just spray some into can ) then run engine till the can is almost empty. This cleans injectors and stuff. Shut car off and hook input up to filter. use a vacuum sucky thingy to bring fuel from tank through your fuel system draw fuel out your return .hook fuel return up to filter . Starts better. I also mix boron nitrite and borax in my motor oil. AND it’s in tranny and wheel bearings. No joke. Hit the laugh track. Thx. It all works for me. 400000 kms on AHL and 50 - 60 mpg imperial .
Watching from across the Pond Sir, good video and thank you for taking the time and to explain in laymans terms.
the notsogrand garage channel sells a very fast transfer pump for for around $100 . you can make your own from a chevy oil pump . if you just want something to load drums , an 8 foot 2x4 and some wide steel pallet strapping will make an oil filter wrench style tool to roll drums (doesn't work w/plastic drums) up your ramps .
I’m 43 years old lol. No old timer.
I’ve put a hose full open right into my old Volvo engine while it was full throttle. The top of the motor blew out all the dirt and black deposits out of it.
We made that engine spotless inside lol. No joke it works 👊😎
That pump was funny
might be worth looking into a hho generator to keep your valves clean, and increase h.p. and m.p.g. You are on the money with what your doing. some of us old timers been doing this for a very long time. We just keep quite about about it. We do oil changes on the side for free, and also heat our homes using diesel heaters. Best of luck. Looks like your doing a fine job.
Yes it definitely makes it much easier to filter and comes out much cleaner after you have thoroughly mixed petrol with it and leaving it for a couple of days to settle out more carbon molecules.
I know of a salvage yard that has a used oil heater. They mix antifreeze, old gas, transmission fluid, gear oil all together. They have to drain some water out of it then they pump it into a tank and use compressed air . This is a factory built oil burning heater. They just filter it through a screen.
Thank you for the info! You can use acetone instead of water. Mix with the oil 3oz per 10 gallons. It will clean the valves, help the fuel atomize better and clean the piston sleeves.
Get yourself a 5 micron sock filter. Horror Freight has rubber impeller water pumps cheap. I believe they sell them in both 12 and 120 volt versions. When you can afford it, get the little giant version of those pumps. (Way better). And depending on your area, I'd invest in a drum heater. And also wrap your storage drum with an insulation. It makes filtering easier. I used to make biodiesel. And warm oil flows much easier.
One thing you need to avoid is plastic drums. Stick with steel.
If you can afford stainless steel do it. Most waste oil drums are left outside and they get water inside. You definitely don't want a drum rusting out. Especially if you have a heater on it.
Anyway I ran fish tank bubbler's in my tanks to de water them. I kept my oil at 110 degrees. And it cleared out the water quickly.
It's up to you to be safe. Research everything before you experiment.
Harbor freight has a drill pump that is not for fuel use. I have pumped diesel through it with good results.
@@Underground-Electronic-Music good to know...
Thats awesome man, thanks for the video
If you are doing the water trick, the engine needs to be hot, have it throttled up to about 2000rpm for a gas motor or about 1500rpm for diesel, use DISTILLED water about a cap full, the rpm will drop and when it evens out do it again, about 4-5 times usually. Watch your exhaust for crap blowing out when it cleans up your done.
Wait, what is this??
@@DisasterPreparednesshe’s talking about the motor pooping
I’d say the air diaphragm pumps/filters might be a bit cumbersome of a system. Seems to me like you could build a little “water tower” by putting a barrel high enough to feed your bulk tank with filter in line. You would only need a single oil transfer pump that can to that head height. Pull up with the full barrel, pump the oil up high, unload empty barrel and let gravity do the rest. If you want to store more oil in barrels you can run a t off the pump and put valves on either end, one to tower, one to barrel, that way you can still always unload empty barrels out of your truck.
Ingenious and simple. Hello from Scotland.
In an idi engine the combustion chamber is separated from the cylinder so it can maintain high pressure longer for a complete burn. If you want to rev high or have a slow low pressure injection system the idi design fixes the problem of losing compression as the piston goes down. Those old Mercedes 5 cylinders rev to 5k for instance on 1970s idi tech. Common rail systems are super high pressure to get fuel into the engine as fast as possible before the piston starts to go down. The high viscosity of motor oil may be an issue. Im sure someone has test data on it but i don't know.
Common rail systems are pretty finicky and expensive, saving money on fuel probably isn't going to, in the long run....
@@Failure_Is_An_Option explain. I'm confident I know exactly what I'm talking about.
@@jamesgeorge4874 I wouldn't say they are finicky. They are simple compared to mechanical systems.
@@mp-xt2rg run a little water, DEF, or dirt through one. Try running some home brew black diesel through one. Try running one without a PCM. While a mechanical pump might have move moving parts inside, it is less complicated, and less dependent than a common rail system, which offers better power output, lower emissions, and inproved economy, but move vulnerability. NO diesel likes water, or other contaminants, but a CP4 failure costs more than a roosa master and 8 poppet injectors, 7 ways to Sunday......
@@jamesgeorge4874 try running a CR without a ecm? I would counter with try running a mechanical pump without a cam. Of course systems won't work if you remove major components. Just because you don't understand something doesn't mean it's worse. You know the pump technology is essentially the same correct? The pumps are just simpler on cr engines because they don't handle timing.
Pretty neat setup. I have an LB7 Duramax. When I do an oil change or have used fry oil I just dump it into my tank. I’ve got over 500,000km on that engine
Could you use this kinda fuel ? I have same duramax ?
@@A2ZREY you could. I wouldn’t do 100% though.
Mixing with diesel will always make sure you have the cetane present and help with viscosity. Another factor is ambient temp. Summer makes it easier to burn oil. If you have cold winter, use higher % diesel to oil
Blue jeans material filters pretty consistantly to 20 micron, i used to get 3' long, 6" diameter 5 micron sock filters for $6 10 years ago, so they are probably $20 now like everything else (crying sounds) but if you pre filter through old blue jeans, the sock filters last a long time. I also did a settling period, id let my drums of wmo and let them sit for a week or so, so the water would selttle to the bottom, and then you just dont suck uo the part thats "below the label on tbe 40oz malt beverage" so to speak, hah.
Would it be also a good idea to put some kind of water separator for good measure?
Thank u for your shared idea,ill try this one sir,is the diesel fuel pump didnt affect the engine,and how often u replace your fuel filter,thank u,
I have a complete system with settling tanks and a centrifuge. I’m looking to get rid of it since it was too time consuming for me to keep up with. I made black diesel for 7 years. Made the same specific gravity, viscosity, and flash point as pump diesel.
Selling price?
@@anthonymazzone6463 1200
Great video!! Thank you 🙏 ❤
you don't need multiple tanks an pumps to filter, you can gravity wick filter instead, sit a 55g drum on anther drum(for height) fill it an run a fiber rope threw a 2 inch clear hose down to a second 55g drum at ground level the waste oil will wick along the rope an into the second drum filtering it as it wicks along the rope, scale it up as you like to suit your set up but the less moving parts the better an cheaper then just pump from that filtered drum into your main holding supply.....
What kind of rope exactly? Trying to see how this would work
@@rudychacon7175 nylon/hemp/synthetic rope all work, get a glass of water put a rag half in half out hanging below the glass an leave it, you'll see the water wick out of the glass till it gets to the end of the rag where it'll start dripping, as the water wicks it's also filtered at the same time..... using the rope instead the hose keeps the area mostly clean it also helps the gravity pull along the rope......
That is an awesome idea. Time labor and money saving, I see a potential for the dewatering here also. Thank you so much for sharing that!!!
Once the rope becomes saturated doesn't the liquid just flow over the top and no longer filter?
@@Saltbearer no
Not sure I will use this, but, this was a lot of fun to watch.
I appreciate you Bud
I do this myself but i seriously recomend filting it as well as you can. The better you filter it, the better it will run. Also plan on running some sort of injector cleaner once in a while
Great information. I’d really like to see you run that “fuel” through a computer controlled engine like an LML Duramax. Thanks.
Thats exactly what im trying to find out. I had the brainstorm today about making my own for my lb7. Im thinking that as long as i thin it out enought it shoudl be fine (i have an aftermarket lift pump so it would help filter it more, as well as filtering when i mix)
Great info thanks!
For cooking oil you just need methanol and you could also add some fuel additives like Lucas to keep your engine clean if you want but its not needed.
good tip! Thank you too.
Just liked and subscribed to your channel. 2.03k subscribers and counting.
HELLYEAH AWSOME DUDE
thanks for the video, I had never heard of black diesel, but I was looking into small diesel heaters and this came up, when I get one I'll definitely have to give it a try
I always had good performance with pre filtered WMO down to 5 microns ran through a water separator. Then cut with 15% 87 octane. Kubota engines love it .
What are you running the stuff in, what kind of equipment a truck tractor or older stuff newer stuff?
I've been running that through my diesel truck for thirty years, runs just fine
How do you do yours?
Very well done explanation
There should also be chemical valve cleaner that you spray into the air intake of the engine. That is, which is made for diesel engines. Then there is also a cleaning chemical that you put in the oil and gas for 15 minutes and then replace the oil filter. Then, of course, there are also cleaning chemicals that you put in the diesel tank. Note that it must be made for the purpose
pretty cool adding gasoline to oil to lower the flash point would be better to do some testing to calculate ratios of the gas and oil.
20% unleaded gasoline 80% filtered to 1 micron and dewatered used motor oil is what I have used for many (10 plus) years to fuel a Ford 7.3 IDI and a 2 cylinder stationary deutz diesel that I use to spin 2 semi truck alternators to charge a battery bank that powers my off grid home...
I think this is a great idea!
Does your IDI cold start on oil? Mine won't, but I'm not adding gasoline.
I use a 1 micron sock filter inside a piece of metal duct sitting on top of a bucket, I use the oil in a 7.3 IDI. I keep diesel fuel in the front tank, oil in the rear. Near the end of a drive I switch to diesel, it takes a few minutes for the oil to be replaced with diesel.
After a few years it had severely gunked up combustion chambers and injectors, to the point where it would barely start and it smoked a lot all the time whether on diesel or oil. The pump may have also been screwed up. It was already running a little rough when I got it, but I'm pretty sure the oil did a fair bit of damage. The upside is that I saved enough on fuel to more than pay for a complete engine. I sold the van (at a profit) and got another one.
My latest one ran beautifully when I got it, it has a reman engine that appeared to be pretty fresh, but I got no history with the vehicle. It didn't take very long to start seeing the effects of running oil, it runs fine, but it smokes a fair bit on either fuel type. I may start adding gas and see what happens.
Sure would have been nice if you would have fired her up. Love to hear those 7.3’s run. It’s my understanding that those engines are NavStars by International Harvester. So basically a tractor engine in a truck. Thanks!
What is the miles per gallon compared to regular diesel. What a cost saving, great information. Thenk You.
Ya when we put the water in the carb to clean the valves and pistons they put 1qt trany fluid in a gallon bottle and filled it the rest of the way with water then they poured it in the carb, This created a steam with a acid type cleaning to break down hard carbon. then when you take the motor apart you would see everything inside, Valves, Pistons, Walls would all look like brand new. Works great. Oh ya you pour it in to a wam motor not hot or cold, so let the motor run a minute or two from a cold start then pour it in.
Nice low-cost setup.
Here's a tip that might be useful: If you have a large upright container standing next to your strained oil-barrel, you can fix a small electric pump running on a single lttle solar panel between them, which will slowly pump the oil from your filter-barrel to your large upright gravity-feeding container.
Zero electric cost. Just make sure you have a little flotation switch inside the filter barrel to switch off the pump when it's running empty
Cheers! :)
Diesel here in Australia over $2.20 a litre. About $5.30 US a gallon
Same as where I live
A big block oil pump rigged on an electric motor would pump your oil through the oil filters.
hey guys, i specialized in engine rebuilds for over thirty-five years, what the youtuber is saying is true. i have done the same thing myself. if you really want to improve this technique mix add hot water or cold and let sit for a time. then filter if you like and drain into a clean container. it would be better if you add a magnet to the funneling system to catch the smaller particles just in case. hope this helps.
Magnets will only work on ferrous metal's, Bearing metals aren't ferrous.
"Simplener" lol i love this guy.
Getting free waste oil, automotive or or cooking is tough in cold climates, cannot speak for your region, but here, it's too valuable. As a technician, I save clean, low mileage motor oil from vehicles I service, at least a couple dozen that accumulate a few hundred miles between changing, I use some for black diesel, some for my plow rig crankcase, some for bar and chain oil, some for my drip oil burner in my garage. I mix my black diesel 50/50 with pump diesel, and have no problems. I run a '90 IDI 7.3 also.
Thanks for sharing. - take care
Did you have to do any mods to the truck??
Normally on the coast ,this stuff is called bunker oil for the ships to run on.
Id be careful of the shop you get this from and seperate and filter the hell out of it then mix it with like 10% kerosene/jet fuel to thin it for flow, maybe some processed veggie oil with the glycerin out.
Diesels aren't super finicky but a bad batch of fuel can get real expensive real quick
Bunker oil is not the same as used engine oil - the only similarities are the colour, and both are hydrocarbons of course. The big difference is in the physical properties - at room temperature, bunker oil is a thick black tar, barely one step above the shit they mix with gravel to make asphalt for road surfaces, which is basically solid at room temperature.
Bunker oil was originally used as a substitute for coal to fire the boilers on steam ships. It got its name from the practice of modifying the coal bunkers on those ships so they could be filled with the oil instead. It can be used in some diesel engines, but generally only the humungous, 3-storey high monster engines used in the similarly humungous container ships.
Those engines are something to behold - they have crankcases so big that you can walk around inside them, valves bigger than dinner plates and pistons more than twice the diameter of truck tyres. Even so, the fuel needs to be kept in well insulated tanks and steam heated just to melt it enough to pump through the fuel injectors. There's no way you could ever use that kind of fuel in a diesel engine on a car or truck - unless you diluted it a lot with something much lighter weight and less viscous.
Have you ever thought about distilling your old motor oil. I start my still off using propane to get the fire going and the distillation process going, Then after it is going I take the waist gas and use it for the fuel for the fire of the still making it a clean process. In the end I have actual diesel fuel.
When I worked at a lube shop I always told the guys this is what I was gonna do with our big tank of waste oil. No one knew what the hell I was talking about
Pyrolosis gasses are fun stuff, I built gasifiers for my trucks since I'm to cheap to own a diesel truck
If you poured the gas in the 5 gallon bucket first then add the used oil it will mix itself.
this would be great for road tripping
surely there is a cost on the fuel filters and exhaust? i was thinking it was for diesel heaters when you run em hot
Just subscribed 👍👍
What do you do in extremely cold temperatures?
Getting a Centrifuge of 9500 rpm. Will be running 4 2002 vw golf tdi alh. One of those engines is set up with 5 of those 255 amp gm alternators to charge my lipo4 battery bank at the camp.
Mixing with kerosene - I been told that it is simply more refined than diesel, which has a higher % of oil,
search "Up flow system". No pump needed for some basic gunk removal. (two bung drum- fill into top drum thru raised inlet thru one bung.. as drum is full and reaches top... it flows/spills out of second bung's piping, into one bung of neighbor drum (leaving sediment at bottom of fill drum). that drum fills to top (again leaving sediment in bottom) and again exits its other bung piping into a bung of a third drum to fill that one.. (repeat with as many drums you have..... more drums the better.) Your good most clean oil comes from the top of last drum in the chain. // You will need sediment clean out system (valved drain) at bottom edge of each drum to clean the yucky sediment out of bottom of each drum). Later if you add a filter system with actual filters (or centrifuge) your filters will last longer since good bit of yucky stuff is in bottom of each drum in the up flow chain of drums. there is ways to get fancier but way to complicated to explain in a reply.
I use an upflow filter system for veg oil but any more than one drum is unnecessary . Using a length of 2" exhaust pipe running through the 2" nipple that connects the small loading drum to the settling drum the oil is delivered slowly to the bottom of the settling drum . By the time it reaches the top and starts to dribble through a clear hose into the three bag filters over the finishing drum ( 25/5/1 micron , one inside the other ) it's already pretty clear . Using additional intermediate drums only ties up oil supplies and space .
I would just add to my reply , use a bucket filter in the small loading drum to start with and only pour in the best part of well settled oil .
Hi
I have an 2008 Mercedes Sprinter.
I should be fine as long as my mixture is good, right?
I plan on making a video explaining that.
Why cant you mix some pure sulfur into the black diesel? Does it react some how?
i bought a cheap 12 v harbor freight pump . i stick one end in my barrel and the other goes to a sock filter above a funnel straight into my tank . i use veggie oil , im concerned with metal shavings in used motor oil . i buy the sock filters at dudda diesel online . ive run over 100 k miles total with this system . i had a 96 ford 7.3 , i ran veggie oil off and on for about 50k miles and the motor died at 202k which scares me a bit that i killed it early with wvo but im not a mechanic so not sure
Put one barrel over anothe then get a hemp rope and wick the oil thru it to the lower barrel,its not fast but the end product is clean oil all the black stays in the rope. Put your barrels on the sunny side of the shop
I need people like you in my life ! Helpful, honest , and a good overall person taking time out of his life , just to help others ! My kind of people! Good job Sr.🤝 thank you!!
do you think black diesel would work fine with a heating oil furnace? everywinter it cost me like 1200 dollars to fill 300 gallons in my damn tank and im sick of it
Water in your carburetor does work there are machines and chemical solutions to tech up the process but at home a simple mister spray bottle and regular old h20
I'm running water methanol injection to help with egts and a side benefit is helps get rid of carbon
Very interesting.
Youre great. You could be one of the best . Come on by friend!
Thank you.
need som tips here, I clogged up my injectors pretty much right away runing this stuff...and this was with diesel left in the tank
Just wondering if you have made an updated video on the topic
No I have not, but I plan to. I’ve just been pretty busy.
I have two older diesels, a 1988 G30 6.2 diesel and a 93 7.3 idi f250 4x4
Hi how long have you done it this method for please? And how much does your truck smoke? I run it 50/50 oil diesel and smokes loads but I don't mix it before I put it in didn't Realise I had too lol
You probably don’t half to mix it, but I think it is a good thing to do. I did it for a year and it worked good in. Mine did not smoke anymore then if I ran normal diesel in it.
Diesels really like ATF and hydraulic fluid, it also increases the HP
Cool
Could this process be used to make home heating oil? Used Motor oil mixed with kerosene or gasoline to thin it down and have heating oil for your home oil burner driven heat for way cheaper than 3.798 a gallon? I have about 15 gallons of hydraulic oil and old motor oil I was going to bring back to the auto parts store to get rid of but now I’m curious if I can make 57 bucks worth of heating oil for less than the price of 1 gallon of gasoline? That’s a 50 dollar savings just for 15 gallons
Google Chinese Diesel Heaters .
Probably yes. I always used to just dump my used motor oil in the heating oil tank. I never gave it any thought, nor worked out any ratios, but as I was adding about 3 litres of thicker hydrocarbon to over 500 litres of thin hydrocarbon, usually already laced with anti gelling agent, because I was always running winter grade diesel anyway, so I was making a minute difference to the fuel reaching the burner.
However, burners are very primitive technology and as long as the oil can be pushed through the orifice at enough pressure to atomise, it will ignite in the arc and burn well.
There’s usually an inspection port and if you can see a blue flame through that, you’re good.
If it’s yellow, then you have too much fuel for the available air and you may need to reduce the flow rate, or use a smaller orifice.
There’s far less to go wrong and the cost is much lower than trying it in a common rail electronic injection engine, if something does go wrong.
Also, burning at atmospheric pressure is easier to inspect and tweak, to make sure you’re getting the best blue flame. At high pressure, the chemicals can separate out and not burn at the same rate, resulting in unburnt product entering the exhaust, so not something to do on an engine with a dpf.
But yes, in principle, any hydrocarbon fuel can be used in an atmospheric pressure burner and it’s probably more eco friendly than what the recycling centre will do with it, while charging you for doing it.
Is there a way to make black diesel that will run on an 08 Silverado Duramax diesel?
Oh shit, nearly bedtime, where is my bedsheets.
As far as a pump to pump your waste oil through a set of filters, I would simply find an old oil pump out of an engine..... Something like out of a 258-6 AMC that that has a shaft that runs off the cam gear and simply put a drill on it and plumb As necessary.
What if somebody recycles they are motor oil but they mixed antifreeze in there what if somebody puts something else besides motor oil?
I notice my fuel filter gets plugged up and my fuel pressure to the injector pump goes down when I put even a quart of WMO in the tank of my 24v Cummins (2001 Dodge)
So the sulfur attacks the carbon deposit?
15:40 Water injection systems were used for cleaning Carbon and Giving Horse Power. ATF Is good for Cleaning Carbon. Should help diesels.
how about running the used oil through a centrifuge first to clean it up and get the soot out and pollute less