How to setup and tune an Olympic Recurve bow Part 1
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- čas přidán 25. 04. 2018
- a step by step in depth explanation of how to setup and tune an Olympic recurve bow from setup to bare shaft tuning at 30 and 50 meters.
****Once i took out the stiff plunger, and put in my regular plunger, i kept my center shot dead center because i shoot a barreled shaft. If you shoot a parallel shaft, you will need to move your arrow to an offset and adjust your sight so its over your arrow. That explanation was apparently cut from my video during edits. **** - Sport
All the information I needed in one video 👍👍
Timestamps and link to sight tuning:
Intro 0:00
Plunger Position 0:46
Limb Dowel Basics 2:23
Tiller Bolt Basics 3:41
Limb Basics 6:08
Knocking Points 8:19
Stringing the Bow 10:47
Brace Height 13:29
Aligning the Tiller 16:54
Aligning Limbs to the Riser 19:52
Aligning the Plane 22:02
Aligning the Sight czcams.com/video/BGCYvlX424A/video.html
Unaligned Stabiliser 28:06
Making a Stiff Plunger 29:16
Aligning the Centre Shot 30:15
Bare Shaft and Fletch Tuning 31:45
Tuning the Plunger 36:22
Checking the Tuning at Different Distances 38:18
Beginner archer here. Decided to get my own kit recently but have been having a horrible time with set up and it’s been difficult to get help due to COVID-19. Compared to the trainer bows I’ve used, I’m just wildly off every time.
Having it all in one consolidated video with easy to understand explanations and demos, I’ve now spent a fair few hours on set up and fine tuning, and after one test session, it has been a world of difference. Combining this with videos from Jake Kaminski and Ashe at Online Archery Academy has been a huge success. Thank you!
Wow. First time bow owner. I have been shooting in a class at my local range. I just bought a beginner Olympic and this video is VERY informative. Thank you.
Sir, you absolutely have the greatest patience with all of those sirens screaming, and I applaud you. This is a fantastic and very helpful video, exactly what I needed to tune my bow from scratch.
there is a police training academy near my warehouse. They train officers in pursuits on a race track. Most every day there are sirens. it cant be helped, its in the background. If i waited until a day when there were no sirens, i would never get any videos done. I just ignore them.
I hear you. I have the greatest respect for those guys in the military and law enforcement. Good job on your videos. I'm trying to decide on a recurve for myself, 6'-2" with a 31" draw. I just don't know what I need to start off with. I tried a 62" Galaxy Sear with TradTech Black MAX Long Limbs 30lbs. But it stacked and pinched like CRAZY, I sent it back to LAS for a refund. 62" is too short for my draw obviously. Do you think I could get away with a 64" bow?
no. You need a 68 or 70 inch bow. 25 inch riser for sure and either medium or long limbs. I know a number of tall archers with 32 inch draw and they shoot 25 inch riser and medium or long limbs. I personally shoot a 70 inch bow and i am 6'-0.
Thank you so much for the help.
Thank you.
An absolutely fantastic tuning guide, easily the best I've seen. I've used your guide in stages and set up my bow from scratch. So much information, my bow behaves so much more predictably now.
You are the best coach for me, awesome information.
Thank you.
This was a fantastic series of videos! Thank you very much for this! Bookmarked and sharing :)
Good to see I am not the only one grinding the edge of the shelf off the riser. :) Superb video, thank you again!
Thank you very much for this very useful video. I just received my beginner level Olympic recurve bow and your tutorial is very helpful.
Finnaly found a good practical video on tunning , alignment ❤️, thank you
Excellent resource. Greatly appreciated
Amazing information as usual. Thank you
Thank you for your time making this video. God bless
Best video on ILF recurve tuning. Been search whole YT to find something like this. Big THANK YOU! I SUBSCRIBED too.
Glad to see you destring before adjusting the tiller, I know some manufacturers say you can adjust without doing so but, in my opinion, it's better and safer to destring.
Amazing video. Following it step by step with my new recurve. Thank you!
you are welcome.
Amazing video. I've been watching this over and over again for the past week. I'm yet to find an online guide to tuning, in video or written form, that comes even close to the depth of this one.
Well, along came Jake Kaminski and kinda changed that, but this video is still my go-to response when anyone asks me about tuning an olympic recurve.
That would be the best tutorial on recurve setup I've ever seen, I'd recommend it to anyone, well done Chris
Thank you for the comprehensive and instructional video! I enjoyed watching it :)
the string shouldnt need to be flipped. Strings only last about 10,000 shots or so. If your string gets fuzzy, you can apply string wax. If the serving breaks on the ends or in the middle, then it is time to reserve the string, or get a new one. The big loop should stay on top because your nocking point should be at a specific place, and if you flip the string, you change where the nocking point is.
Nice video....it's so helpfull for archer
very informative Chris, thank you.
I went back to basics using this video, actually helped by pulling my button forward. I am now within the recommended brace window.
I like how simple you kept it, you could have quite easily started to explain how to stiffen the arrows had you been to weak at minimum limb tiller.
yes, but my focus was on the bow tune. Arrow selection and tuning has enough details to be a video on its own with the varied options you have. I was trying to keep this video short and concise and easy to follow and be bow oriented. There are many details to olympic recurve and its easy to get side tracked or be so long you lose the attention of the viewer. It was easy to skip steps even when i was filming, and i had to go back and record things i had missed explaining. And all of this was on the fly for me. It was not scripted at all.
Great video, thanks.
Very helpful! Thank you
You’re the best!
Wow this video is awesome, i discovered a lot of stuff i didn't knew or was tuning "wrong"(and that was after extenseive research in tuning, with the easton tuning manual, etc)
Very glad I found this video. Unaligned long stabilizer and center limb always bothered me. I didn't know how to fix it. Someone told me to adjust it by adding washer rings to move the limb left/right. I didn't feel that was the answer cuz the Hoyt manual says the bows mostly come as centered from factory. I tried it anyway, but then the bow didn't sound right and became very noisy. Now I'm gonna have to reset the limb and adjust the stabilizer. Thank you.
the risers dowels are centered from the factory, but limbs are not going to always be manufactured center. There are minute variances that need to be address with washers first to align limbs to riser. Then you align the bow plane to shoot the arrow straight off the bow forward. These are two different things. You will not always get an aligned bow just putting limbs on the riser. If you did, then there would be no need for an alignment system. It can be aligned with a set of limbs and centered riser dowels, but not most of the time. And especially when you mix bow manufacturers for limb and riser which have different specs. You should be able to align your bow using my video as a guide.
That's it!!! My next string is gunna be white! Very nice.
I am a beginner in the respect that I have shot compound in the past and now have purchased most of what I need to get started in Olympic-style recurve. This video has answered everything question I had except one important issue. What is the starting point for setting up the sight? How high should I set the sight pin; how far left or right; how far forward should I set the sight bar?
Hi, you will find the answer to that question in my Olympic Recurve sight alignment video. Please watch it and you will find the answers.
Great video... I'm waiting for my new limbs to arrive before going through the setup process and it's been great to see someone demonstrate how it's done
The question I have is... After the stiff setup to get the poundage correct for the arrows, do you adjust centre shot or keep it centred as per stiff setup and shoot arrows to adjust? I think most tuning manuals suggest the arrow slightly off centre for the medium spring tuning phase
Perhaps I missed this information, it is 3am UK time
From your video I did find out that it doesn't matter where they land on the target as long as the bareshaft lands with the fletched group.. I kinda always added a step of adjusting the sight to centre the arrows.. I'm guessing this will effect the tune later on in the process? Not sure why I've been doing this 🤔
If you shoot a parallel shaft arrow. then when you switch to a regular plunger spring, you would change the centershot to be offset and adjust your sight to be over your arrow. If you shoot barrel shafts ( X10s) you can leave it centered. With stiff plunger, it doesnt matter as much where the arrows land. We are just getting the bare and fletched together with the poundage. Mine usually land centered, but not everyone will. As shown in my 30 meter first grouping. I was centered. Then when i changed the plunger from stiff to regular, my first end was 8 inches to the right of the yellow. So i gave my plunger ( since i had it in the middle plunger setting) some clicks to strengthen it and that centered my group in the yellow for the rest of the video.
Tq info😎👍🏹🥇🇲🇾
YES YES YES... THANK YOU_THANK YOU_THANK YOU....
ANYONE CAN DESCRIBE, EXPLAIN TILLERING AND DIGRESS.
YOU ARE THE ONLY ONLY ONLY ONE TO ""DEMONSTRATE"" AND "SHOW" ON HOW TO ADJUST ONE LIMB THE CORRECT LIMB AND NOT THE OTHER FOR AN EVEN TILLER....
ITS ALL IT TOOK TO """SEE""" AND UNDERSTAND ABOUT """HOW""" TO GET TO EVEN TILLER....
THANK YOU SIR ...
SINCERELY LHASA w/My new 25" WIAWIS Nano TFT Riser and WIAWIS NS Graphene Foam limbs... I will further study your video to greatly understand and tune my bow to greater accuracy.
you are welcome.
Those stabilizers just magically appeared
Lancaster recommends using a digital caliper to measure limb bolts and the spacing.
"ILF recurve bows have a recommended best working range. Starting at a maximum height of 20mm (13/16 of an inch) for lowest draw weight and adjusting in to a minimum height of 15mm (5/8 of an inch), for the highest draw weight. Those distances are measured from the underside of the limb bolt to the surface of the limb pocket beneath it."
i think counting thread turns is far easier for most people than buying a caliper and measuring 15mm from the underside of the limb bolt. Not to mention Lancaster recommendations arent always given by someone knowledgable in the style of archery you shoot. They once told an OTC athlete that 8% foc was recommended for X10s shooting 70 meters.
Hi Chris! A little question about how exactly you measure a distance from a left/right limb bolt to the string. On the angle shown in video it is not quite clear - with your bowsquare you do contact both the edge of the bolt and the string, trying to hold square at 90deg to the string, right?
yes, correct. I use the edge of the tiller bolt and then the string. Trying to hold the T square exactly 90deg angle.
Hey Chris thanks for the amazing videos. Quick question for you. I've been shooting for about a year, and just watched your video and realized that my bow string is clockwise, (but I'm a left handed shooter) so it should be counter-clock wise. should I undo my string and retwist it? or is it better to just buy a new string and start over?
i wouldnt worry too much about the direction of the twist. The string will shoot fine twisted either way.
HiChris, I have been shooting mk korea for 5 years. You say they recommend an even tiller. I shot an even tiller for a couple of weeks but went back to a positive tiller of 4mm. The bow sounds much happier. My coach has never heard of a company recommending an even tiller. They don't say anything about it in the manual. Would you have any technical info on this or know where I could go to find our about it. Thanks
I noticed that you off set the arrow to the left when using the stiff plunger method. I thought the arrow was in line with the string when doing this (see ref Tuning for Tens, Rick Stonebraker) Each to their own preferences, but what are your reasons for off setting the arrow?
Hi Stephen, i do not offset the arrow when setting the plunger stiff. I set the arrow dead center. In the video as i set the bow up, it starts out not centered so i adjust the plunger to make the arrow dead center. At 30:22 i say i am going to set the centershot. That is placing the arrow dead center. Once i move to a spring in the plunger, If shooting a barrel shaft arrow, i leave it centered. If shooting a parallel shaft, i return the arrow to a slight offset. As i shoot an X10 arrow ( barrell shaft), my arrow is always centered regardless of plunger.
Small correction about tiller. Hand and arrow position is above center not below. That is why bottom limb should be stronger to compensate longer string.
When you have crooked stabilizer, you can use two parallel arrows and run it along two parallel and centered planes on your riser to have another reference. If you cant find any parallel planes on your fancy riser, unscrew your grip. There should be two parallel planes which are both same distance from riser center vertical plane.
i believe i said the hand position on the BOW is below center for the bottom limb being stronger. I did not say the position of the draw hand or arrow was below center. Bottom limb strength has nothing to do with string length. Limb and riser length have to do with string length. Yes, you can use anything parallel if you have a flat plane on the riser. Measuring the string distance as i showed is much easier that trying to connect and keep plane on parallel arrows. But it will work. Thanks.
@@ChrisHillOlympicRecurveArchery Correct, sorry, my bad. Your videos are very very good and informative. Do you plan to shoot some more? Latest one is one year old.
@@Piasecznik72 i have a plan do upload a video on the linear shot sequence and how to get inline in your form.
Hi Chris,
I am interested getting my 13-year-old kid getting started with recurve archery. Would appreciate any tips how to get started with the program. Web sites, books, etc., are fine. Thanks!
HI, are you in the USA? What country/ state are you in?
for books, i would recommend Rick McKinney's The Art of Winning. It is affordable and though written in the 1970s, still has so much great information. The second book i would recommend is Kim Hyung Tak's book "Archery" This one is pricey but worth every penny. Those two are my must have recommendations for anyone wanting to shoot competitively.
Recurve bow setup
If I start switching ILF limbs do I still adhere to my riser's recommended brace height, or do I look up what the limb manufacturer recommends?
riser recommended brace height as a start.
I fucking love you, no homo.(great content)
Did you intentionally trim the riser shelf?
yes i did. On all my risers, from my first Hoyt Aerotec riser, to my MK Korea MKX10 risers. It allows me get my hand in a better grip position. I have small hands so i like a smaller throat and shelf. The bow is a tool to deliver the arrow to the target. Dont be afraid to modify yours to fit you better. Same as modifying a grip or weights/stabilization.
I want to ask if i can make my own stabilizer using some 18 / 22mm copper bars with heavy parts at the ends, does it need to be stiff or a bit flexible ?
I need to be stiff, but also absorb vibrations. Using copper may be too heavy for the total stab system. You want some thing light and strong and vibration resistant.
As you have access to low poundage recurve limbs, would you please do an experiment. Use a 29" carbon arrow of about 220 grains total weight and a 68" bow with a 28" draw. What is the max distance that can be achieved using a sight set down to max for 90m and 14, 16, 18, 20lb limbs. The old rule of thumb for a 36lb bow to reach 70m might just be a very old rule of thumb. Alternately could you shoot a 220 grain arrow over a chronograph with the various limb poundages and give the speeds.
you can shoot a super light arrow and reach 70 meters. But only on a windless day. Once the wind starts up, your very light poundage and very light arrow wont hit anything at 70 meters. To be accurate and competitive, you need 36-42 lbs for 70 meters. And 45-48 for 90 meters.
If you put sprint in, do you change a sight to the left of an arrow or do you still want it on the top of the arrow?
sight is directly over the arrow. What you sight, arrow points to hit.
If i am using barreled shafts should i centre the button on the the thickest part of the shaft, or does it not make a difference where i centre it
the difference where the shaft lays at brace height and where the shaft is on the plunger at shot for me is too small to make a difference. So i use the center at brace height. My arrows are 29 inches. You should measure the diameter of the shaft at brace height resting and 2 inches from the end of the shaft at point and see if there is a difference for you.
I’ve got a similar setup. What arrows are you using?
Easton X10. 550 to 500 spine. depending on arrow length.
Thanks. Really enjoyed your tutorials
Hi Mr Hill, I need your opinion regarding the bare shaft tuning, on 18 meter, my bareshaft and vane grouping tightly, however, when I start tuning at 30m the bareshaft drops significantly , grouping at 3 or 4 ,while vane shaft grouping at centre, what is the suitable nocking position so that the arrow will group together again?
My current nock position is 1/8 above centre on T ruler
Many thanks
lower nocking point until bare shaft is same level as fletched at 30 to 50 meters. then check at 18 and see where bareshaft is. That will be your guide the next time you tune at 18 meters. 18 meters is the bare minimum for bare shaft tuning. Also what is your point weight and length of arrow? Do you know the FOC of your arrow?
Point weight 120g
FOC 28.5 inch
@@zulamer2435 shoot 100gr 120 is too much. what poundage you shoot?
42 lbs 68 inch
Recommended by my local store when I buying arrows from them
when u say 2 and half washer, what does half washer mean? skinny/slim washer?
redhongkong usually you get two washer types, a brass washer and an aluminum washer. Generally the brass washer is twice as thick as the aluminum. If your washes are all the same, then start with two washers.
@@ChrisHillOlympicRecurveArchery i just got my ATF-X the new limb pocket system just loosen 1 side and tighten the other side. they lock it down with a outer locking bolt. i do not see any washers for this riser
redhongkong there may not be any washers. The owners manual should tell you how to set the limb pocket center on the riser
Hi there, very nice video (I like the other ones as well, make more!)
I have one question that's born from confusion, I am sure I heard other people say that an X10 type shaft should be slightly out from string and ACEs in-line. If a shaft is parallel why offset it? There is a chance I am completely remembering this wrong of course.
++++I now remember where I heard this, it's in this video: czcams.com/video/14mABSsBoVo/video.html++++
parallel shafts should have an offset as the arrow needs alittle help flexing around the riser. Barrel shafts are more flexible and weaker per spine so they dont need the help to flex around the riser. I shoot a much stiffer spine X10 arrow than i would a parallel shaft for my given poundage. I shoot a 500 X10 spine arrow, if i shot a parallel spine arrow, i would shoot a 700 spine arrow. Jake feels the X10 should be slightly offset due to the diameter of the arrow at full draw vs at brace height. This may be true if you have a long draw and arrow. But if your draw is 29 or shorter, the difference in the arrow diameter at full draw is about the same as the diameter at brace height. So i do not recommend shooting the X10 offset. I recommend you shoot it dead center.
@@ChrisHillOlympicRecurveArchery Hello again, many thanks for the fast and comprehensive response, to be honest everyone else seems to say more or less the same. I shoot ACE around 30.5 inches and the X10 closer to 31. Keep up the good work, I am half tempted to come to the US to get some coaching and tech help!
Wonder what other mistakes are made in the coaching process?
plenty. no one is perfect.
You twisted the string in the opposite direction each time though.
thats because i cut several takes of each section, and had to untwist sometimes to get the brace height correct for the next section or for the retake.
@@ChrisHillOlympicRecurveArchery Thanks. That was just a bit confusing although the prinziple was clear. ;)
@@Dr._Spamy as i filmed some of the sections out of order due to flubs and steps that needed a different camera angle etc, sometimes the bow was not setup correct for the section. Hence the tiller being off when i measure for bow plane at 27:00 when it was set at 17:00, and i untwist brace instead of twist etc.
Price?
price for what? I am not selling anything.
All the way down didn't really specify on what a turn is every talking a quarter turns or full spin
Hi, a turn is a full 360 degree spin of the tiller bolt. From 12 o'clock to 12 o'clock. A quarter turn is from 12 o'clock to 3 o'clock position. So one turn is one full 360 degree go around.