I've always been a little confused with all the different theories regarding tuning my arrows. A great video so very well simplyfied hopefully I will give it a go tomorrow
Very helpful instructions, I have read a lot of tuning materials but this video shows the real stuff and explains the mechanism pretty well. Thanks for the sharing!
How far the tiller bolts can go down in order to increase the poundage? My bolts were all the way down now. This was done by the staff member at a local archery shop but I don't feel very comfortable with it. Especially when I set up or take down the bow.
If you tiller bolts are all the way down, that is fine and wont cause any problems, but you will not be able to go up in poundage with the current limbs, only down.
"Especially when I set up or take down the bow."I've had same experience. Many risers in market come in 9 turns, and the manufacturers recommend to reserve at least 3 turns for safty which leaves us room of 6 turns out from all the way in (or down). If tiler bolt is too tight to get the limbs in and out, you can do half turn out. But that will decrease the poundage so you might have to adjust your arrow spine.
I always thought Changing the plunger stiffness from rock solid to average without touching its position obviously makes the arrow act weaker instantly. Thats why I was always confused with the stiff plunger tuning. My recommendation is to skip that part and jump to the walk back tuning part right after you done the bare shaft tuning with the arrows pointing directly to the front.
going from a stiff plunger to a regular plunger spring doesnt weaken the arrow, if you have the correct spine. If you have incorrectly used the plunger to adjust for an incorrect spine, then all bets are off.
Each distance requires a sligtly different tune, but if you tune at 70 , you will have a good tune at 18 as well. Dead center at 30,50 and 70 meters gives me a group slightly right 9 ring at 18 m. So i either move sight or adjust plunger slightly.
@@ChrisHillOlympicRecurveArchery I guess the arrows would have to be ideal (spine, shaft lenght, tip weight, feathers, nock) in relation to the poundage of the bow to achieve grouping without tuning at all distances (18-70m). Thank you.
SKULPTRON yes, that is the purpose of tuning at several distances, like 30-50 and 70. If you fo not have the right spined arrow for your bow and shot, then all bets are off.
I think this series is the best explained. I used your info for my set up 👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼
I've always been a little confused with all the different theories regarding tuning my arrows. A great video so very well simplyfied hopefully I will give it a go tomorrow
Very helpful instructions, I have read a lot of tuning materials but this video shows the real stuff and explains the mechanism pretty well.
Thanks for the sharing!
Great video Chris.
Awesome vids Chris!!! I have been a bit confused with tuning with the new setups I have now. These should get me set up right.
awesome
Mantap
My skill level is no where near that l could tune passed 10 yards!
Thanks for this excellent video.
you might be surprised at how far you can shoot.
How far the tiller bolts can go down in order to increase the poundage? My bolts were all the way down now. This was done by the staff member at a local archery shop but I don't feel very comfortable with it. Especially when I set up or take down the bow.
If you tiller bolts are all the way down, that is fine and wont cause any problems, but you will not be able to go up in poundage with the current limbs, only down.
"Especially when I set up or take down the bow."I've had same experience. Many risers in market come in 9 turns, and the manufacturers recommend to reserve at least 3 turns for safty which leaves us room of 6 turns out from all the way in (or down).
If tiler bolt is too tight to get the limbs in and out, you can do half turn out. But that will decrease the poundage so you might have to adjust your arrow spine.
I always thought Changing the plunger stiffness from rock solid to average without touching its position obviously makes the arrow act weaker instantly. Thats why I was always confused with the stiff plunger tuning. My recommendation is to skip that part and jump to the walk back tuning part right after you done the bare shaft tuning with the arrows pointing directly to the front.
going from a stiff plunger to a regular plunger spring doesnt weaken the arrow, if you have the correct spine. If you have incorrectly used the plunger to adjust for an incorrect spine, then all bets are off.
After tuning for 70 m, can it be used at 18 m without additional adjustment?
Each distance requires a sligtly different tune, but if you tune at 70 , you will have a good tune at 18 as well. Dead center at 30,50 and 70 meters gives me a group slightly right 9 ring at 18 m. So i either move sight or adjust plunger slightly.
@@ChrisHillOlympicRecurveArchery I guess the arrows would have to be ideal (spine, shaft lenght, tip weight, feathers, nock) in relation to the poundage of the bow to achieve grouping without tuning at all distances (18-70m). Thank you.
SKULPTRON yes, that is the purpose of tuning at several distances, like 30-50 and 70. If you fo not have the right spined arrow for your bow and shot, then all bets are off.
I will have a go with my win win I can’t get do any worse than I am Portsmouth 545 ?
You Brits are the Americans of the archery world. "I've been shooting bowmaster level scores on the Watfordshire round" - the what on the what now?
Who's here from india