1.9tid won't crank from the key, putting in the loops took the message about the traction control off the dash. But still not turning off the key. Engine will spin from the starter relay with a wire to the positive of the battery. Please give me some advice?
The two videos that I have found for this repair are both for right-hand drive cars. For left-hand drive cars, the location of the master cylinder makes it pretty much impossible to get to the lower screw next to the firewall. And, even if you can, removing the module straight off the valve body is almost impossible. For these cars, it's much better to go the SAAB WIS route and remove the battery box and then drain the system and remove the ABS unit intact. It's a PITA, but with this route you won't potentially damage the unit. Once the unit has been removed, the repair that Cyd shows in the video is straightforward and sharing his work is much appreciated.
I had same problem with my Saab 93 V6 two years ago. I did the same as you did here in this video (re-soldering cold joins in the ABS module). I have fixed the problem. Thank you for sharing this content is very helpful for Saab owners. Regards from Mexico.
@@CycloneCyd I'm the owner of two Saabs, I have a 2003 Saab 93 Linear B (since new) and a 2008 Saab 93 V6 Aero. People ask me everyday about my cars (many people like them ) they don't even know about the brand on these days but I think is because Saab 93 look very modern on these days. Saab 93 was very popular in Mexico between 2003 until 2008.
Thanks to THIS VIDEO, another Saab saved! My 06 Aero Sportcombi 9-3 was having the canbus failures pointing to the ABS module. Jumping the two pairs of bus pins on the ABS connector resolved it for long drives during the entire week I tested it. The LHD US car engine bay is a bit tight but I managed to move the pump enough to remove the module. Followed all your directions and later put it back into the car. (Soldered ALL the connections) Previously the bus would fail in about 10minutes consistently when warmed up from cold each morning. Just took it for an hour of hard driving, and IT RUNS GREAT. Did not realized how much power was lost due to the poor connection. Pretty excited. 🙂 THANKS CYD! Btw a few of my oops... tips. -When running a knife around that silicone seal, only cut 1/8" with just one gentle pass. -That plastic rib is easy to cut through, which makes a real mess and results in a less stable seal. -TAKE YOUR TIME and light pry pressure on the main plastic middle and upper body area, being careful not to pry too hard on the lower section later where the plastic cover is thinner. -Get one entire side to become loose before moving across the top and bottom, and the down the other side, because if the entire top half is loose first and you start working that lower section, IT WILL CRACK. -Easy to crack that plastic housing at the weak points. Slow down. -Having some sandpaper & epoxy 2 part plastic repair on hand is valuable to seal up any areas you damage by prying(like I did). -When gluing it back together I used large rubber bands around the upper and lower sections to hold it together. -The silicone needs several days cure time for full strength, so don't get excited and cook it in that engine bay too early. Lol. -You have about 10min worktime on the silicone, so plan out your moves ahead of time, and keep rags handy for gummy fingers! -I ended up cleaning and seating that o-ring cord into a layer of silicone in that plastic channel, seating the rubber evenly, adding a light skin on top of the rubber, and seated it back on the pump for a REALLY good seal, inside that 10minute window. Hope this helps! I will be posting a quick video about that entire troubleshooting and repair ordeal and let them know to find THIS video for a detailed explanation and visuals. Thanks again Cyd! Now...Off save more Saabs!
Now I've successfully done this on a 2ndhand unit (wouldn't have mattered if i busted it), I'm gonna do mine too. Probably later in the summer. In the meantime I'm gonna take this used one further apart to see what else might be worth doing or can be done.
Hi cyd, My 2007 aero vert was in a garage for clutch and camchain. They did neither, but told me the car would not start, and had pushed it outside, so I had it collected on a pickup truck. The dreaded steering lock malfunction is showing. The lock though is in the off position, and key can be removed, but will not turn to on. With a modified ignition module, replacing mine, The key will turn and miu lights up. Tech 2 says missing Ibus, Allthough flashing headlights on main beam proves Ibus working. I have a full tank of petrol but gauge reads empty. Icm wakes cim, which in series connects next to miu then ecm. I suspect, after watching your video that the ecm is faulty, I will link 1 and 13 and 2 and 14 in the ecm connector to see if it starts. If so I will follow your instructions on resoldering the ecm. Thanks for your great video here, and your other video on bad joints on the ecm.
Just opened my ABS ECU - how the heck did you manage to do it so easily? I have broken mine in a few places and was wrestling with it for like 40 minutes!
Hi Cyd, I'm really enjoying the thoroughness of your videos on your Saab 9-3. As this was the video relating to the abs I thought it might be the most appropriate on which to contact you and hoping you might be able to help me with a brakes issue on my 2011 Saab 93x. When the engine is turned on the foot brake slowly goes to the floor. When not running I have a hard brake pedal. Have tested master cylinder by blanking off both outlets, - all Ok. Have flushed through and bled system thoroughly. There are no fault codes on the dash. As this only happens when engine on and thought the only thing connected then is the abs. If you can find the time to help me I would be very very grateful as I can find no information anywhere. Many thanks.
Outstanding video their, can see you put lots of time and effort into this….hat of to you sir! While on the subject of abs do you know if the Saab v6 abs loom/harness in the front wheel arch are problematic? Iv a Vauxhall using the same v6 and the cable is a nightmare 😩
Yes, I did put a lot of time and effort into this one, almost twice what it usually takes to produce a decent 5-6 minute video. Nice to know it's appreciated. The ABS cables to the wheel sensors aren't normally problematic of their own accord. People do occasionally have problems with water ingress to the connector, but no more so than many other cars. Problems around wire chaffing and/or damage are usually caused by cables not being put back properly after a brake or suspension job. What's the particular problem with the Vec C? Surely it's virtually identical to the Saab?
Well iv owned the vectra c for almost 2years now and it has come to my attention that their has been damage in the past to this cable and “hidden” the problem, the issue is the v6 Vectra have IDS wiring running in the same loom as the abs, normally I’d just replace the whole loom/harness but you can’t get replacement parts for this any longer, would you think a Saab loom would fit in your opinion?
Hi cyd, thanks for the great video. I was wondering if you knew what code this problem would cause? I'm currently getting a U2105-00 CAN-Bus No communication with ECM (Engine Control Module) code. I will try bridging the wires you suggested in the video. Hopefully this will reveal the cause. Thank you!
U2105 is defo an ECM code. Try the wire bridge first though. Try disconnecting and reconnecting the ECM, checking all connection pins for damage or corrosion. Also check the big connector under the battery tray near the front. Also check all the connections in and out of the fuse board. Check and clean the earth connection on the ECM.
@@CycloneCyd Hi Cyd, thank you for your response, it was really helpful! I have followed your advice and was able to get the car running :). I cleaned all the connectors you said but I believe it was the ECM connectors/ECM pin corrosion which caused my fault. I could see some of them looked slightly green with corrosion. I did a gentle cleaning just by straying with contact cleaner to start with. After this the car ran, but I had some unusual faults in multiple circuits (like a non-genuine "water in fuel" and "main relay opening too slowly"). After this, I cleaned the ECM pins with another contact cleaner and carefully with a brush. It seems to be working perfectly now, but only time will tell. Thanks again!
I just did this and I can say accessing the SouthEast Torx(T15) screw was not possible by me. I made a thin aluminium 'wrench' that holds the torx bit in it after shaving half of the torx bit off. No way I was getting that last one out. THEN separating the lid from the plastic is nigh impossible without cracking the plastic lid lips. Heating didn't help, so much torque has to be applied to separate the lid that it cracked (slightly) the thin end where it joins the main base. Parts of the plastic still remained inside of the metal lid groves. At this point I wished I hadn't started this process. I did the rest, siliconed the f8ck out of it after supergluing the snapped off lid channels. Taking it back to shop for reinstall and fully expect to be buying a new/used one.
Hi Cyd, love your channel. Hope you can help. Had C0035 code, wheel sensor wires corroded. Replaced the hub. Still have C0035 and all lights on dash. Traced wires back to ABS and no breaks from sensor connector to ABS. Connected back up with key on, engine running, getting 0.09 volts at sensor connector. Where do I go from here? Car runs & brakes fine.
Hey mate. I currently have the U0212 fault code too, but my issues are different. My car starts every time, but once accelerating from 60mph I get a traction control and stability control failure light come on. I just need to turn the car on and off to get them to disappear. Do you think its the ABS control module too? Cheers
Not sure on the 9-3, but on the 9-5 (at least up to MY2004), it is a common condition for the warning lights to come on randomly when the abs module is just starting to go. It can stay like that for a long time actually, more or less an occasional minor nuisance. If it is happening all the time, then probably time to refurb the electronics.
I should add though, that on the 9-5, when that happens, the dash is like a Christmas tree with lights: abs, TCS, parking brake, etc all come on. If just one or two of those come on, it could be another issue (but 9-3 and 9-5 may be different), often a sensor (eg abs, yaw, etc).
Cyd, the brake pipes on the valve block don't have enough play in them for me to get to the screws on the ECU. If I disconnect the brake pipes from the valve block do I have to bleed the brakes afterward? Mine is '06 Aero V-6
Could i try this out if diagnostics show that i have communication problems with abs module? mine symptoms are no working abs, brake warning light and speedometter stops working when error accures. sometimes it just goes back to normal like nothing happened during driving.
Hi cyd I noticed you added a protector lense to a reflector headlamp. I wanted to know if I supplied the parts and had them shipped to you if you could do the same for a pair of my headlamps. I live in the UK and would pay in advance. If this is something you would/could do let me know how to contact you and we could exchange details. Many thanks in advance. Your videos are awesome 👌
Are you referring to the mini projectors i fitted to the C1 in this video: czcams.com/video/it0n-9PgBgQ/video.html OR something else? If you're referring to the C1, there is a link for these projectors in the description and they are a direct fit in place of the bulbs and so are a doddle to fit. What car and type of headlights do you have now?
@@CycloneCyd oh no I ment taking my existing reflector housing and adding an aftermarket projector in there and sealing it back shut 🤦♂️😅. It's an BMW X3 F25 2011
@@alycapo3391 ah, right. So you're after a custom build. Are the existing headlights halogen bulbs in reflector headlights then? Send an email (address in 'about' section)
@@CycloneCyd actually was half of the problem, bad connection in pin 1 of cim and bad connection in abs ecu solve the crancking problem but now I need to solve the other part, the cim unit
Hi, my ttid Saab has run the battery down a few times. There’s a loud squeal from the back of the engine after the ignition is off. This stops after 30 seconds, but I noticed it was squealing a few hours after turning the car off last week…I go to start the car next morning…battery drained completely. I charged the battery and car started fine. So to fault find, while squeal could be heard and ignition was off I pulled fuses out of fuse box next to battery. Fuse F1 30a engine management control unit was the fuse that stopped the squeal as soon as removed. Do you know if this is the fuse for the abs ecu? And could the abs unit give the ‘squeal’? Thanks
What a strange fault! I'm not as familiar with the diesel as I am the petrol. Test the power to the engine ECU and ABS with your DMM or a test light to find out. You could also try a mechanics stethoscope to track down where the noise is coming from czcams.com/video/xkD95IWzGpI/video.html Any chance you could send a video recording of the fault?
The problem I’m having with my Saab 9-3 is most of the lights comes on and off like the ABS ,brake is it the same pin issue am having let me know thanks
Whenever I start my Saab 9-3 all lights comes on in the dashboard most of them goes out but the brake lights indicator stays on the ABS lights indicator stays on the TCS light indicator stays on and also the warning light indicator stays on . After a few attempts of switching off and on the light indicators goes out completely sometime when you’re driving they’ll pops up back up in the dashboard i was told it’s the ABS module need to be changed
@@jamrockrc172 it won't be the particular pins I mentioned in relation to the comms (1,2,13 &14) because if they become loose it prevents the car starting. It could however, be other pins along that row. Next time it does it, leave the car running and waggle the ABS connector. Maybe get someone to do it for you while you watch the instruments. If the warning lights go out then it is defo one or more of the edge pins. It could just be one pin to one of the sensors - that's all it takes. Another possibility is the wires feeding the rear WSS's where they jump from body to rear suspension. They have a nasty habit of breaking internally. Probs the best way to check this is to use your DMM on continuity and while the buzzer is sounding waggle the wires along their length and see if this causes the buzzer to 'stutter'. If it does you've found your problem.
2008 9-3 I'm having the exact same issue that you are talking about as well, the same lights will come on the dash, abs-brake-traction control-and cornering headlight malfunction. When the abs and brake light come on, if i shut the car off it will not restart unless I wait until the computer's go to sleep, or I have to take the battery cable off. But recently I've been having trouble with the hood release cable and now the hood will not open to allow me to take the battery cable off to reset it. Have you figured out what the fix for this is? I usually only have one code when I check the obd2, but when this happens I have 4 or 5 other codes pop up.
When I did this repair, I resorted to a 1/4" torx bit in the closed end of a combination wrench because clearance was so tight. Don't be afraid to gently bend the brake lines a little bit too, to move the abs assembly away from the strut tower.
@@RonnieTheFinBear thanks. I removed the whole abs, didn't bleed the brake lines (cuz i don't know how). Put it all back together w a video i can link u guys later, but now my "Low brake fluid" light is on all the time, even though the fluid reservoir is level. Brakes work fine, Don't feel as nice as before though.
@@lack8810 hey kev. Am having a drink rn. The video is for a different kind of vehicle. I may have bookmarked it on my laptop. Would have to check tomorrow. I did fix it all though. Sorry ur there man. You can get out though. All my brake / starting issues fixed for the timebeing.
I have a 2007 Aero 93 saab convertible I was able to get it started a couple times jumping from yellow starter fuse block from pin 86 straight to positive battery then it stop working... will that cancel out it being ABS or is it still possible it could be ABS??? THANKS FOR YOUR TIME SURE
@@RekTurntUp by "yellow starter fuse block" do you mean the starter relay? Sounds like a new relay might be on the cards. Yes, could still be an ABS comms issue too.
@@CycloneCyd thanks for taking the time to respond and yes the starter relay... I will try both than if not that I guess I'll have to try the ECU 😢😢😢😢😢
Hi Cyd, I need to repin the connector to the ABS module. Do you have any videos that address this? Also do you know the name of these particular connectors? What type are they?
👉 Saab 9-3 No crank no start diagnosis: czcams.com/users/shortsKhCPffsia00?feature=share
1.9tid won't crank from the key, putting in the loops took the message about the traction control off the dash. But still not turning off the key. Engine will spin from the starter relay with a wire to the positive of the battery. Please give me some advice?
The two videos that I have found for this repair are both for right-hand drive cars. For left-hand drive cars, the location of the master cylinder makes it pretty much impossible to get to the lower screw next to the firewall. And, even if you can, removing the module straight off the valve body is almost impossible. For these cars, it's much better to go the SAAB WIS route and remove the battery box and then drain the system and remove the ABS unit intact. It's a PITA, but with this route you won't potentially damage the unit. Once the unit has been removed, the repair that Cyd shows in the video is straightforward and sharing his work is much appreciated.
I had same problem with my Saab 93 V6 two years ago. I did the same as you did here in this video (re-soldering cold joins in the ABS module). I have fixed the problem. Thank you for sharing this content is very helpful for Saab owners. Regards from Mexico.
Thanks for sharing. Is the 9-3 popular in Mexico?
@@CycloneCyd I'm the owner of two Saabs, I have a 2003 Saab 93 Linear B (since new) and a 2008 Saab 93 V6 Aero. People ask me everyday about my cars (many people like them ) they don't even know about the brand on these days but I think is because Saab 93 look very modern on these days. Saab 93 was very popular in Mexico between 2003 until 2008.
Thanks to THIS VIDEO, another Saab saved! My 06 Aero Sportcombi 9-3 was having the canbus failures pointing to the ABS module. Jumping the two pairs of bus pins on the ABS connector resolved it for long drives during the entire week I tested it. The LHD US car engine bay is a bit tight but I managed to move the pump enough to remove the module. Followed all your directions and later put it back into the car. (Soldered ALL the connections)
Previously the bus would fail in about 10minutes consistently when warmed up from cold each morning.
Just took it for an hour of hard driving, and IT RUNS GREAT. Did not realized how much power was lost due to the poor connection. Pretty excited. 🙂 THANKS CYD!
Btw a few of my oops... tips.
-When running a knife around that silicone seal, only cut 1/8" with just one gentle pass.
-That plastic rib is easy to cut through, which makes a real mess and results in a less stable seal.
-TAKE YOUR TIME and light pry pressure on the main plastic middle and upper body area, being careful not to pry too hard on the lower section later where the plastic cover is thinner.
-Get one entire side to become loose before moving across the top and bottom, and the down the other side, because if the entire top half is loose first and you start working that lower section, IT WILL CRACK.
-Easy to crack that plastic housing at the weak points. Slow down.
-Having some sandpaper & epoxy 2 part plastic repair on hand is valuable to seal up any areas you damage by prying(like I did).
-When gluing it back together I used large rubber bands around the upper and lower sections to hold it together.
-The silicone needs several days cure time for full strength, so don't get excited and cook it in that engine bay too early. Lol.
-You have about 10min worktime on the silicone, so plan out your moves ahead of time, and keep rags handy for gummy fingers!
-I ended up cleaning and seating that o-ring cord into a layer of silicone in that plastic channel, seating the rubber evenly, adding a light skin on top of the rubber, and seated it back on the pump for a REALLY good seal, inside that 10minute window.
Hope this helps!
I will be posting a quick video about that entire troubleshooting and repair ordeal and let them know to find THIS video for a detailed explanation and visuals.
Thanks again Cyd!
Now...Off save more Saabs!
I wish you have uploaded this video 2 years ago
Am sure a lot of people have experienced this problem
Based on following the various Saab groups, I'd say it's getting more common
Just like new.
Will do that preventive maintenance when I get my car back.
Now I've successfully done this on a 2ndhand unit (wouldn't have mattered if i busted it), I'm gonna do mine too. Probably later in the summer. In the meantime I'm gonna take this used one further apart to see what else might be worth doing or can be done.
Thanks a lot for such a great videos you do!
I wish I would watch this video 2 years ago… 😊
Thanks indeed mate- this seems to have fixed mine, fingers crossed..👍✅😊
Hi cyd,
My 2007 aero vert was in a garage for clutch and camchain.
They did neither, but told me the car would not start, and had pushed it outside, so I had it collected on a pickup truck.
The dreaded steering lock malfunction is showing. The lock though is in the off position, and key can be removed, but will not turn to on.
With a modified ignition module, replacing mine,
The key will turn and miu lights up.
Tech 2 says missing Ibus, Allthough flashing headlights on main beam proves Ibus working.
I have a full tank of petrol but gauge reads empty.
Icm wakes cim, which in series connects next to miu then ecm.
I suspect, after watching your video that the ecm is faulty,
I will link 1 and 13 and 2 and 14 in the ecm connector to see if it starts.
If so I will follow your instructions on resoldering the ecm.
Thanks for your great video here, and your other video on bad joints on the ecm.
Just opened my ABS ECU - how the heck did you manage to do it so easily? I have broken mine in a few places and was wrestling with it for like 40 minutes!
Running a knife round the 'seal' helps big time.
@@CycloneCyd Did that - didn't do much but a bit more of automotive sealant around the edges was enough to make up for the broken plastic :)
Hi Cyd, I'm really enjoying the thoroughness of your videos on your Saab 9-3. As this was the video relating to the abs I thought it might be the most appropriate on which to contact you and hoping you might be able to help me with a brakes issue on my 2011 Saab 93x. When the engine is turned on the foot brake slowly goes to the floor. When not running I have a hard brake pedal. Have tested master cylinder by blanking off both outlets, - all Ok. Have flushed through and bled system thoroughly. There are no fault codes on the dash. As this only happens when engine on and thought the only thing connected then is the abs. If you can find the time to help me I would be very very grateful as I can find no information anywhere. Many thanks.
thank u brother for making this video.. much appreciated.
Outstanding video their, can see you put lots of time and effort into this….hat of to you sir!
While on the subject of abs do you know if the Saab v6 abs loom/harness in the front wheel arch are problematic? Iv a Vauxhall using the same v6 and the cable is a nightmare 😩
Yes, I did put a lot of time and effort into this one, almost twice what it usually takes to produce a decent 5-6 minute video. Nice to know it's appreciated.
The ABS cables to the wheel sensors aren't normally problematic of their own accord. People do occasionally have problems with water ingress to the connector, but no more so than many other cars. Problems around wire chaffing and/or damage are usually caused by cables not being put back properly after a brake or suspension job. What's the particular problem with the Vec C? Surely it's virtually identical to the Saab?
Well iv owned the vectra c for almost 2years now and it has come to my attention that their has been damage in the past to this cable and “hidden” the problem, the issue is the v6 Vectra have IDS wiring running in the same loom as the abs, normally I’d just replace the whole loom/harness but you can’t get replacement parts for this any longer, would you think a Saab loom would fit in your opinion?
@@vauxaholic it probably would. But why not just fit some new wire in parallel to the damaged piece and connect it at each end and bypass the damage?
Brilliant.
I am unsure how to remove it since you used another one to finish the video. I need to know how to do it without the extra part.
Cyd, do you know how to clean an ECG?
Hi cyd, thanks for the great video. I was wondering if you knew what code this problem would cause? I'm currently getting a U2105-00 CAN-Bus No communication with ECM (Engine Control Module) code. I will try bridging the wires you suggested in the video. Hopefully this will reveal the cause.
Thank you!
U2105 is defo an ECM code. Try the wire bridge first though. Try disconnecting and reconnecting the ECM, checking all connection pins for damage or corrosion. Also check the big connector under the battery tray near the front. Also check all the connections in and out of the fuse board. Check and clean the earth connection on the ECM.
@@CycloneCyd Hi Cyd, thank you for your response, it was really helpful! I have followed your advice and was able to get the car running :). I cleaned all the connectors you said but I believe it was the ECM connectors/ECM pin corrosion which caused my fault. I could see some of them looked slightly green with corrosion. I did a gentle cleaning just by straying with contact cleaner to start with. After this the car ran, but I had some unusual faults in multiple circuits (like a non-genuine "water in fuel" and "main relay opening too slowly"). After this, I cleaned the ECM pins with another contact cleaner and carefully with a brush. It seems to be working perfectly now, but only time will tell. Thanks again!
I just did this and I can say accessing the SouthEast Torx(T15) screw was not possible by me. I made a thin aluminium 'wrench' that holds the torx bit in it after shaving half of the torx bit off. No way I was getting that last one out. THEN separating the lid from the plastic is nigh impossible without cracking the plastic lid lips. Heating didn't help, so much torque has to be applied to separate the lid that it cracked (slightly) the thin end where it joins the main base. Parts of the plastic still remained inside of the metal lid groves. At this point I wished I hadn't started this process. I did the rest, siliconed the f8ck out of it after supergluing the snapped off lid channels. Taking it back to shop for reinstall and fully expect to be buying a new/used one.
Sounds like you didn't score the 'glue' first with a knife like I did. I know plenty of other people in forums who have done this successfully.
Hi Cyd, love your channel. Hope you can help. Had C0035 code, wheel sensor wires corroded. Replaced the hub. Still have C0035 and all lights on dash. Traced wires back to ABS and no breaks from sensor connector to ABS. Connected back up with key on, engine running, getting 0.09 volts at sensor connector. Where do I go from here? Car runs & brakes fine.
Hey mate. I currently have the U0212 fault code too, but my issues are different. My car starts every time, but once accelerating from 60mph I get a traction control and stability control failure light come on. I just need to turn the car on and off to get them to disappear. Do you think its the ABS control module too? Cheers
Not sure on the 9-3, but on the 9-5 (at least up to MY2004), it is a common condition for the warning lights to come on randomly when the abs module is just starting to go. It can stay like that for a long time actually, more or less an occasional minor nuisance. If it is happening all the time, then probably time to refurb the electronics.
I should add though, that on the 9-5, when that happens, the dash is like a Christmas tree with lights: abs, TCS, parking brake, etc all come on. If just one or two of those come on, it could be another issue (but 9-3 and 9-5 may be different), often a sensor (eg abs, yaw, etc).
Cyd, the brake pipes on the valve block don't have enough play in them for me to get to the screws on the ECU. If I disconnect the brake pipes from the valve block do I have to bleed the brakes afterward? Mine is '06 Aero V-6
Could i try this out if diagnostics show that i have communication problems with abs module? mine symptoms are no working abs, brake warning light and speedometter stops working when error accures. sometimes it just goes back to normal like nothing happened during driving.
Yes.
You leave out the most important part! How to bleed the brakes after.
I need to do exactly the same on my B234
Quite a common issue
I have a 2008 aero, how do I get the bottom right screw out?
Hi cyd I noticed you added a protector lense to a reflector headlamp. I wanted to know if I supplied the parts and had them shipped to you if you could do the same for a pair of my headlamps. I live in the UK and would pay in advance. If this is something you would/could do let me know how to contact you and we could exchange details. Many thanks in advance. Your videos are awesome 👌
Are you referring to the mini projectors i fitted to the C1 in this video: czcams.com/video/it0n-9PgBgQ/video.html
OR something else?
If you're referring to the C1, there is a link for these projectors in the description and they are a direct fit in place of the bulbs and so are a doddle to fit.
What car and type of headlights do you have now?
@@CycloneCyd oh no I ment taking my existing reflector housing and adding an aftermarket projector in there and sealing it back shut 🤦♂️😅. It's an BMW X3 F25 2011
@@alycapo3391 ah, right. So you're after a custom build. Are the existing headlights halogen bulbs in reflector headlights then?
Send an email (address in 'about' section)
thanks 😊
Welcome 😊
Thanks
Beast
I've got issue with my saab 9-3 1.9
My key want connect too the barrel after several attempts car will start I've had to park up
so a bad ABS ECU the car wont crank the motor? jesus i was thinking the problem was the CIM UNIT i will try this on my saab 93 2.2TID 2003
Was this the problem?
@@CycloneCyd actually was half of the problem, bad connection in pin 1 of cim and bad connection in abs ecu solve the crancking problem but now I need to solve the other part, the cim unit
@@gmdinis1 "pin 1 of cim" was that just a bad connection at the connector or was it the pin solder to the cim board?
@@CycloneCyd i will take the cim apart and see if resoldering solve the problem
I hear what sounds line a geiger counter coming from my center console sometimes when my electrics get funky. Any idea why?
What car? Some have the aircon temp sensor behind a little grille and it has a small fan. Dirt can get in and they get noisy.
@@CycloneCyd Saab 9-3 Aero Sport Combi 2006
Hi, my ttid Saab has run the battery down a few times. There’s a loud squeal from the back of the engine after the ignition is off. This stops after 30 seconds, but I noticed it was squealing a few hours after turning the car off last week…I go to start the car next morning…battery drained completely. I charged the battery and car started fine. So to fault find, while squeal could be heard and ignition was off I pulled fuses out of fuse box next to battery. Fuse F1 30a engine management control unit was the fuse that stopped the squeal as soon as removed. Do you know if this is the fuse for the abs ecu? And could the abs unit give the ‘squeal’? Thanks
What a strange fault! I'm not as familiar with the diesel as I am the petrol. Test the power to the engine ECU and ABS with your DMM or a test light to find out. You could also try a mechanics stethoscope to track down where the noise is coming from czcams.com/video/xkD95IWzGpI/video.html
Any chance you could send a video recording of the fault?
Hi Cyd, thanks for the reply. Here is the video. czcams.com/users/shortsSsHLm_9vDlc?feature=share
The problem I’m having with my Saab 9-3 is most of the lights comes on and off like the ABS ,brake is it the same pin issue am having let me know thanks
Can you be more specific about which lights you mean and also the conditions when they come on
Whenever I start my Saab 9-3 all lights comes on in the dashboard most of them goes out but the brake lights indicator stays on the ABS lights indicator stays on the TCS light indicator stays on and also the warning light indicator stays on . After a few attempts of switching off and on the light indicators goes out completely sometime when you’re driving they’ll pops up back up in the dashboard i was told it’s the ABS module need to be changed
@@jamrockrc172 it won't be the particular pins I mentioned in relation to the comms (1,2,13 &14) because if they become loose it prevents the car starting. It could however, be other pins along that row.
Next time it does it, leave the car running and waggle the ABS connector. Maybe get someone to do it for you while you watch the instruments. If the warning lights go out then it is defo one or more of the edge pins. It could just be one pin to one of the sensors - that's all it takes.
Another possibility is the wires feeding the rear WSS's where they jump from body to rear suspension. They have a nasty habit of breaking internally. Probs the best way to check this is to use your DMM on continuity and while the buzzer is sounding waggle the wires along their length and see if this causes the buzzer to 'stutter'. If it does you've found your problem.
2008 9-3
I'm having the exact same issue that you are talking about as well, the same lights will come on the dash, abs-brake-traction control-and cornering headlight malfunction. When the abs and brake light come on, if i shut the car off it will not restart unless I wait until the computer's go to sleep, or I have to take the battery cable off. But recently I've been having trouble with the hood release cable and now the hood will not open to allow me to take the battery cable off to reset it. Have you figured out what the fix for this is? I usually only have one code when I check the obd2, but when this happens I have 4 or 5 other codes pop up.
Don’t suppose you offer a repair service for these?, it’s a bit above my ability and tool box
american v6 aero abs is so damned hard to get out. So tight in there, even with the battery tray out.
When I did this repair, I resorted to a 1/4" torx bit in the closed end of a combination wrench because clearance was so tight. Don't be afraid to gently bend the brake lines a little bit too, to move the abs assembly away from the strut tower.
@@RonnieTheFinBear thanks. I removed the whole abs, didn't bleed the brake lines (cuz i don't know how). Put it all back together w a video i can link u guys later, but now my "Low brake fluid" light is on all the time, even though the fluid reservoir is level. Brakes work fine, Don't feel as nice as before though.
@@julianm5333 Hello sir, do have the link to that video.
@@lack8810 hey kev. Am having a drink rn. The video is for a different kind of vehicle. I may have bookmarked it on my laptop. Would have to check tomorrow. I did fix it all though. Sorry ur there man. You can get out though. All my brake / starting issues fixed for the timebeing.
What do you mean by fine wire??? 🤷♂️🤷♂️
wire with a small cross section,
Yeah I bought a 14 Guage way too big 🤦♂️🤦♂️
I have a 2007 Aero 93 saab convertible I was able to get it started a couple times jumping from yellow starter fuse block from pin 86 straight to positive battery then it stop working... will that cancel out it being ABS or is it still possible it could be ABS??? THANKS FOR YOUR TIME SURE
@@RekTurntUp by "yellow starter fuse block" do you mean the starter relay? Sounds like a new relay might be on the cards. Yes, could still be an ABS comms issue too.
@@CycloneCyd thanks for taking the time to respond and yes the starter relay... I will try both than if not that I guess I'll have to try the ECU 😢😢😢😢😢
so it is impossible to drive during ABS module repair?
No. Jump the connector like in this czcams.com/users/shortsKhCPffsia00
I thought the ECU sat on the manifold?
That would be the engine ECU
I've been going thru this for 2 months now 4 mechanics came to see my car and neither one knows why it won't start 😢😢😢😢
Have you used the test shown here: czcams.com/users/shortsKhCPffsia00
Hi Cyd,
If the module is swapped out does the "new" unit need to be added to the buss or is it good to go, given the module is good?
Needs added to the car with Tech 2 with security access
👍 Thank you Cyd.
Hi Cyd,
I need to repin the connector to the ABS module. Do you have any videos that address this? Also do you know the name of these particular connectors? What type are they?
😮