How To Deep Clean A Hydraulic ABS Control Module Traction Control Not Working
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- čas přidán 26. 07. 2024
- Traction control warning light on AKA your ABS, ETC, or ESP is not working, then watch this & try cleaning your anti-lock braking connector & Control Module 1st before spending money 💲 & replacing the entire unit. Please 👍👍👍 and Subscribe 🔔 if this helps and click on SHOW MORE for all supplies used. 👉👉
#FixCarYourself
This video shows how to clean the ABS connector and the back side of the control module, as well as the solenoids of the hydraulic distribution block. Many times the control module and connector is dirty from corrosion, dirt, grime, soot, weather, and it just needs a good cleaning.
This deep cleaning project will take less, about an hour ⏳ to do.
Before taking the control module off watch this video to quickly clean the connector to see if the abs or traction control works again. This is the first method that should be tried and will only take about 15 minutes to do but will save you the hassle from doing the deep clean which involves removing the control module.
You can watch that here: 👉👉👉 • How To Quickly Clean A...
If the cleaning of the control unit does not work then you have officially determined that the unit needs to be replaced, and to see how to replace the unit without going to a dealer to program, you can check out the replacing of the control unit video here: 👉👉👉 • Remove Control Module ...
These are all the supplies you will need:
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👉 Electric Parts Cleaner amzn.to/2I279zW
👉 Soft Toothbrush 🪥
👉 Soft Chenille Stem Brush amzn.to/36zIPOJ
These are all the tools 🧰 you will need to gather:
👉 Pliers: amzn.to/35WmFVV
👉 Ratchet Wrench 1/4" amzn.to/3eme6rd
👉 1/4" to 3/8" adapter: amzn.to/3bk8qOi
👉 Female E-TORX Socket Set: amzn.to/3fcJQjy
👉 Telescopic Magnet: amzn.to/2SIpWoZ
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Or help others and make videos you think can be of value to others!
Hopefully this video will resolve your problem and save you money 💰 before replacing for a newer unit. If so mention your thoughts in the comments below.
👍 & 🔔 - Auta a dopravní prostředky
I have a 2010 Mercedes C300 Luxury Manual Transmission, and those horrific lights came on and my power steering went out. I was pricing replacing the module and they were not cheap. I took it all apart and did the deep clean like you suggested. Immediately following the cleaning, the error still kept popping up after 5 mph. But the next day the error went off and has not gone back on since, it has been several days. Thank you for the great advice, saved me a lot of money!
Awesome. Thanks for your experience. This should help others out. Most importantly great job in doing this project yourself and saving that 💸! Go buy yourself something nice!
Edit: the cleaning only gave me about 1 month of service before the controller failed again. Wound up replacing with a used unit and got it reflashed and has been good ever since.
Never would have guessed a simple clean would work. It worked! Saved me a $1000 bill and my particular abs control module is actually backordered until March 2024 so thanks for this tip!
Really glad to hear that. Go buy your self something nice with all that savings!
#FixCarYourself I'm certainly going to give this a try.
Cool let us know how it turns out!@@bigwillie2051
what type of vehicle? i am having same lights on my 2013 ram truck.
How did you flash the module?
I'm going to try this deep clean as soon as I get home! Thanks for the video!!!
Glad it helped. Let us know if this worked for you or if you decide to get a new unit.
I did exactly what you suggest… and it’s fix. Great suggestion. MB C320 2003
Thanks for letting us know and for your experience.
Thanks for the video nice and clean
Me too going to try this trick on my 203 benz👍
Awesome... Please let us know if this helped and worked when you do it in the future.
First 1 min helped, thanks.
Super!
Vă mulțumesc frumos pentru informații și va doresc tot binele din lume mitică la toate
Thanks for the kind words!
Excelente video gracias
Glad it helped!
Very good information and video bro my Toyota hilux video 2010 breaks is spongy I believe my abs need servicing
Glad it helped.
Everyone should separate their system into 3 parts.
-Hydraulic brakes master and slave cylinder ) common for all brake system. Push peddles and force applied to brake pads.
-ABS control module (senses speed and locked brakes and controls the pump and solenoid)
- Solenoid/pump assembly (pulses the brakes under critical stopping conditions)
Soft pedals has more to do with air or leaks in the lines and master of slave cylinders.
Lights on the dash are most often the ABS or stability system not see what it expects from either the module, or the solinoids
Nice!
Great video. Going to do this. My Toyota has something going on. "Unable to read abs"
Did it work?
I cleaned my ABS module in this manner for my '03 Ford F250 7.3L diesel and it did not work. What I did find is the contacts on the ABS Module were loose and that is not good. Sent my ABS module off to Module Masters and now I have a 5 year warranty and a working ABS system. Advance Auto and Auto Zone list a crappy recon at $428, I spent 1/2 that (including shipping) to get a real quality job done. Check them out.
Nice
My 05 Passat is showing p01435 code "brake pressure sensor 1". I'm also getting approximately 1200 bar of pressure upon applying the brake pedal. Would it be a waste of time to try cleaning it?
Not entirely sure. If you are thinking of replacing the abs anyway, then feel free and clean it 1st. Otherwise it may be the actual brake pressure sensor. If possible narrow down the code and see what others have said online about this.
United Kingdom and other places with similar weather! Beware, on 17 yr old XKR the controller was corroded onto the hydraulic module and separating it pulled one of the solenoids out of the module rendering it unrepairable.
Good to know that this doesn't work on a Jaguar car, when opening it up. This video is more so for Mercedes vehicles or at least ones like these.
Thanks for great description Just a question if I replace pump and module with the complete same one same serial number and everything do I need to reprogram it ?
No specialized programming is needed. However, if you are getting a used model, their might be codes on the used model previously. So what you'll want to do is after you install the used piece, is hook up a scan tool to wipe any codes that are on there.
Also if possible clean the unit 1st before spending model on an identical used model to see if that fixes the problem.
It's alredy been programed on a car similar to your
I am going to try this on my c 300 before I spend 2400 to fix which I’m not. Thank u much
Wow the stearlership is charging $2400. Go somewhere else or try swapping it yourself 1st.
@@FixCarYourself also private they say part alone is 1500. But if I swap don’t I need to program it
If you get a used one then you don't need to program it, but you should still remove any codes on the replacement with a code reader. Also $1500 is robbery. Go somewhere else or do it yourself.
@@FixCarYourself thank you much
👍
No ABS light..but brakes do sink and then come back up..need bleeding? Where would debris collect, how to inspect n clean debris or metal shavings? Buick Rainier 2004 8cyl
check the brake fluid if its dirty or low, then get it cleaned.
The same action will be for C0131 Malibu 2011 ?
Good to know. This should help other viewers out or at least help others before they decide to take the abs control module apart. Some vehicle manufactures make products differently like this abs control module.
I only wish the abs connecter came off as easy as you show here! try that on a car with a couple hundred thousand miles!... Ive released the clips but trying to pull out the connecter seems impossible..its frozen in the socket.. dont want to wreck it.. suggestions?
It wasn't easy for me at first...I had to slowly wiggle it. Eventually I felt it getting looser. And the. It did come off.
I have a 2003 santa fe, one brake isn't engaging. I believe it has to do with the module but I'm not sure how to test that since I'm not getting a light. It pulls hard to the left and the front right line from the hydraulic line is dirty
Use a code reader first to hopefully more specifically determine what the problem is.
did you fixed it already? same prob with mine
Hi
can corrosion on solenoids make soft brakes ?
bas/esp light on and codes give to me for brake pressure sensor ,but the pressure sensor is new
thanks
maybe you need a brake fluid change or possibly new brakes.
@@FixCarYourselfi changed brake fluid 3 times
the brake pads are ok
what when abs shows no dash lights ON.
when engine rest , drive a short time the issue of all wheels drag all 4 wheels on rims become to heat to finger touch.
never dash abs lights show ON.
any suggestions
I'm not sure what your trying to say. Please restate.
It's probably cold solder joints causing the problem, more times than not. Easy cheap fix!
Maybe, but the unit would have to be carefully torn up, to get to the circuit board. I actually did do that on an older unit, and I couldnt find any soldering issues like broken connections or something burt. However I'm not exactly an expert when it comes to soldering. Perhaps I'll make a video on that 1 day...showing me cut it open and the insides exposing the board.
@@FixCarYourself I figure between the vibration and the under hood heat that is generated over the course of 10 to 13 years or so it’s got a cause problems with solder joints on the circuit board
interesting...I believe it!
@@FixCarYourself update: it was actually the left rear speed sensor wire chaffed through by a cv boot clamp that I had put on (the pull through slot type). I then put the crimp ear type on. Apparently, instead of bending the clamp tab back, it was bent forward causing it to hit the sensor wire and wearing through over time. I cut the wire and soldered the 2 up and used heat shrink tubing and liquid insulation (aka plastic dip), to give it protection from the elements. That was a tight spot for sure! Saves changing the wheel bearing! All good now! No more ABS light! And my MPG display now works properly! Thankfully, my Autel scanner displayed a code pointing to the left rear sensor, which was the first place I looked.
Thanks for the update, and I'm glad you solved the problem and used critical thinking and a little bit of craftiness!
Hi, do you know that ı can remove the abs pump module? Or do I need to drain hyrolic first? I am really worried about removing only ecu side what you did in the video. Because it works in my car but some mechanics say that the pump may not work. My car sliding when ı pushed the emergency brake adn also start to turn right. I gues taht need to remove pump module and sent it to be repaired. Can ı remove that easily ?
It depends on the car brand and model. Usually this module is removed 1st, and if problems still persist then the hydraulic lines are drained and removed. It really does depend on the problem and where you want to start with (from a cost point of view).
Brilliant video. Could the ABS module be the fault when the brake pedal slowly sinks to the floor but only when the engine is running. I have replaced master cylinder seals, replaced rear calipers and bled system. The brakes are rock hard when engine is not running but sinks slowly to floor if engine is running. Pumping does not improve brakes and no leaks/ brake fluid used.
Thanks. I'm not really sure. It could be a problem. But it may be something else. If possible use a code reader to narrow down what the potential issue is.
My 2003 ford taurus is doing the exact same thing. I have replaced everything, even the rubber brake lines. I have replaced the ABS module 3 times with used ones and then professionaly bleed the brakes, the pedal will be hard until I crank the car. I don,'t have any kind of codes, or warning lights on the dash. They do come on initially when I crank the car, but they go out after a few seconds. I have no brake, the pedal just goes all the way to the floor. I hope you found your trouble to yours. I'm about to end my car trouble, I live close to a river.
I'll try doing this in my Mazda 3.
👌 cool.
Did it work? I've got the same issue with my Mazda 3
Also what was the problem with the Mazda 3? I've got sinking/spongy breaks. New brakes, rotors and calipers. They say its the ABS module needing to be replaced.
I have the same issues in my Mazda 3 and want to know if there is any chance avoiding that my ABS module should be replaced! Did this worked for you?
Is it possible to turn on ignition and drive the car with the control module out of the car? Will it just show defaults but allow normal operation?
I would think it would still work but with codes on, assuming you don't unscrew the hydraulic pump lines which would have liquid come out. However, it may make other things not work so I guess it depends on the vehicle. Don't really have a great answer for you.
My abs light is off and on. Maybe its dirty? Thanks for video
Glad it helped, and It could be dirty. However you should also use a code reader to double check to see if you have any others codes which could be illuminating the abs light first.
I have a 2008 Mazda 6 and the abs, Tcs and brake light is on, on the dash. The code said anti-lock brakes lost communication. Either way i have changed wheel sensors, brake pads, rotors and cleaned the calipers and bolts and made sure they were greased and not jammed. Bleed the brakes from further brake line and on. Still have to code, i did check the battery and made sure the terminals have a good connection. Should i try this step? And clean the same part you did?@FixCarYourself
Hi my abs started to smoke up what you think might be the cause??
Are you sure the smoke came from this piece?
I dont have any codes but a replaced the master cylinder and l change the brake fluid and the brake pedal go all the way down
Una pregunta si le le hago la limpieza lo tengo q pulgar
Not sure what your trying to say.
Gonna try this. I tried cleaning the connector but all I did was spray contact cleaner on both sides, then more error codes about can bus, and every wheel speed sensor check wiring appeared
Cool. BTW Make sure the connector is really properly in. I know that may sound obvious, but think about it this way. Your connector probably has never been taken off, and over time due to weather and contaiments it can feel a bit tough getting back off and in. I noticed this problem personally with my connector.
Another suggestion is resetting your car computer with a code reader.
Did you ever get this resolved. Like was the problem cleanning the connector, or did you get a new Abs?
Reseating the connector a bunch of times must have done the trick, I tried to remove the electronic part but one of the torque screws was too corroded. After a day all errors were gone, problem has still not come back 8 months later
@@andyalias Glad to hear. I know these connectors get kinda stuck, and get sticky or lose their grip over time. So glad this got resolved, and you didn't have to spend much or hardly and money $... even better!
It didnt work?
w163 can't move forward when one wheel on the same axle goes free, brakes apply, same situation, on muddy ground, the brakes lock, can't move forward, malfunction lamp does not come on, what could be the problem?
Do you have any codes?
What about a c2200 code will it help that
Possibly.
How do I depressurize the accumulator on a 93plymouth grand voyage awd
Not sure.
Everything you cleaned doesn't matter with the exception on the electrical connector. Everything else is a sealed system. kind of like cleaning your hood wont make the engine run better.
I've seen crud on some of these before, but pretty much the main part is like you said and that is cleaning the electrical connector.
do i need to disconnect the car battery?
Doesn't hurt, and it's usually recommended to do so.
I did it last night, cleaning all pins and abs module.. same errors and EBD lights on my mercedes w204 220cdi 2011. Does not recognize front axel wheel speed. Sensors and abs wheels changed.. whats next step? 🥴
Its possible the actual unit is bad and needs to be replaced. I've cleaned the abs before and if didn't work then theirs an internal problem which means the unit needs to be replaced...its possible it could be opened up and repaired (soldered), but it would probably make more sense to just replace.
Also look at the error codes with a scan tool to narrow down the problem if not done so already.
@@FixCarYourself Thanks for the answer! :)
Did you ever get your problem fixed?
@@FixCarYourself Yes I got it fixed.. the fault was ridiculously easy, both front sensors were older model sensors and they gave several different fault codes. I replaced the correct bosch sensors and everything works perfectly.. sometimes fault is too simple :D
Hi! If the hydraulic box leaks brake fluid, is it repairable? Or must be changed???
Hard to say, it may actually be cheaper replacing it than repairing. You would have to figure out where and why its leaking. It could be a loose nut/ screw on the brake lines or a bad seal or gasket to name a few.
There are companies that repair this issue amd give a life time warranty. No coding is required but will need to bleed brakes which isn't difficult
Good to know! Sometimes this just needs a quick cleaning which I would try 1st.
Why do the brakes need to be bleed? A swap of the unit should be good enough...right?
@@FixCarYourself I think in some vehicles, the location of the ABS module & pump are such that removing the module without disassembling the brake lines may be difficult.
on my chev sonic i change my brakes my speeed senors on the wheels but still the abs goes on and bouncingon the pedal
I don't think it's the abs unit that needs fixing. Any codes?
i have a chev sonic 1.4 with problem ABS LIGHT and when i hit the brakes it jumps while i trapping. can anyone help me out
Any codes?
I tried it but it was a total fail now my crossfire is jerking really bad when shifting and then it won’t go in to 2nd gear
Seriously? I was actually looking forward into doing this tomorrow morning
What codes do you have?
Does anyone try this method and solved the issue?
See what others have said in the comments.
Thjis video doesn,t achieve anything .. all it shows is the ABS module getting a spring clean . The nitty gritty bit, is the cleaning the actual Valves which are almost certainly causing the dreaded sinking brake pedal ..
I know its hard to believe, but sometimes these just need to be cleaned from corrosion, or its just not on tight enough surprisingly. However, if the brake pedal is sinking I believe that would be a different issue I can't think of at the moment but in this case they are unrelated at least for this vehicle.
I was a iffy about it too but i cleaned my abs module from my 2000 z28 had abs inop brake light and asr off lights on and i cleaned it with electric cleaner and boom lights came off lol
Waste of time, all these spots have seals, never seen anything that needs to be cleaned within connector or Coulson solenoids
The connector is the biggest failure point. Not so much the solenoids.
@@FixCarYourselfmy guess is not worth the effort ,where did dirt come from ?
Not sure.
He's cleaning parts that DONT M,OVE! The moving piece is inside the sealed tube that is activated by the blue coils. The only reason it worked for a while is because handling the assembly loosened the internal parts. This is a totally useless video.
BIG LIE!!!
Cleaning the abs connector has helped many people. So please explain in detail.