How to DIY rebuild your BMW M47 diesel turbo. BMW Diesel Turbo Tear-down and Re-assembly E90 320D
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- čas přidán 24. 07. 2024
- In today’s video we see the steps involved in tearing down and rebuilding a BMW diesel variable nozzle (VNT) / variable geometry turbocharger (VGT). Is it something you could do yourself? Watch and find out!
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Here is a breakdown of the chapters in this video:
0:00 BMW Diesel Turbo Disassembly - Intro
0:35 Main Components
1:22 VGT / VNT Turbo - How It Works (briefly)
2:00 Preparation Before Disassembly
2:56 Turbine Housing Removal
7:05 Nozzle Ring Removal Attempt 1
7:56 Nozzle Ring Removal Attempt 2
9:09 Inspection of Components
10:58 Cleaning of Turbine Side Components
13:20 Compressor Housing Removal
15:02 Compressor Housing Assembly
16:55 Turbine Side Assembly
21:03 Electronic Actuator Calibration (quick and dirty method)
#BMW #BMWDIY #Turbocharger
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Great video! I am a turbo specialist and recon turbos for a living. The professionals just use a big hammer to separate the turbine housing 😂 You won't crack the housing just be careful of hitting bolt holes or the exhaust flange as you will deform them. With the vane removal it's best to get some heat from a blow torch on them, they loosen up straight away. Also heat again from a blow torch is a good way of cleaning the carbon/oil off them and give them a good scrub with a wire brush. Really detailed video for the home DIYer though.
Also using heat to remove the turbine side is a must if it doesn't tap off easily with a hammer 👍
That's great information - thanks for commenting!
Thank you i did my turbo e90 m47 last week following your video step by step
Great video indeed
Great to hear!
Great informative and structured tutorial Steve, legend! Helped me out heaps.
Hi, thanks for watching, and glad it helped you out!
One of the best channels. I followed your method of cleaning diesel injectors and now I can do it eyes closed almost.
Great to hear!
Impressive work on both the turbo and your videos! Just discovered your diy's and as an e46 320d owner there's always something to be done in the garage! Thank you very much for the dedication and sharing
Thank you very much! :-)
Brilliant video! BMW turbo diesels are particularly nice diesel engines, the M47 (BMW-Steyr) being one of my favorites. Good to see that people are giving these high quality diesel engines the care and attention they deserve.
Thanks! Yes they are amazing engines for sure, and can be helped to live a very long time with a bit of love.
Great video. I replaced the turbine axle following your video almost two years ago. I can confirm that works super the way of calibrating/matching the actuator position with acceleration level/exhaust gas speed. Since then it works perfectly. Thank you 🤗
Awesome - that's great to hear!
Love your videos.. Gonna go for the DPF cleaning soon, and then the injector cleaning... Keep up the good work.
Hi, thanks for watching, and hope the cleaning projects work out great!
I like the way that you know how to stay between, the boring professionnal and the full experimented amateur, and that's what we the people need, Liked and subscribed.
Hi, many thanks for the comment and the sub! :-)
Thank you so much!!!! Subscribed!
I have the same engine. Can't wait to see more videos.
Thanks for informative video! You gave me confidence to replace my turbo chra. I was amazed how easy it was! Cheers
Glad it helped out, and well done on a good job!
So well explained again fantastic mate
Glad you think so!
Thanks for the detailed explanation of the process. This is what awaits for me. I have an oily turbo that blows oil through the air compressing part and i will try to find the problem. Make more of these good videos !
Hi, thanks for watching, and glad the video helps you out!
if its blowing oil, then you will not fix it, its only geometry of turbo you can clean it.
You have the best diy tools mate
Thanks! :-)
please keep the videos coming, i am enjoying them!
8:27 you asked if someone have better solution steven, i just DIYed mine today following your instructions and i put a flat nut between the head of the turbine and the pointed end of the puller so it's better when the contact is flat, it cames quite good, thanks, now i will go with the cleaning
Hi, thanks for watching, and for the great suggestion!
You are very hard worker knowledgeable mechanic
Thanks for watching!
Excellent video man !!
Hi, I'm really glad you like it!
Awesome video. Thank you!
Glad you liked it!
Great channel and very informative.
Hi, many thanks for watching, and for the great comment! :-)
Great video Stephen, learned allot from this as mine will probably need checking and cleaning soon 97k on the clock
Hi, I'm glad you got something out of it!
wow , brilliant video, watched many a video about turbos but this one hit home , also have learnt something new , if you dont have a torque wrench , mark up the bolts with cutex lol , please keep it up Mr Turner
Glad you liked it!
Another great video - hat off to you sir.
Many thanks!
Super Anleitung! 👍Thx
Great video Steve. I have bought a used spear or repair turbo on Ebay for £20 the same as the one on my BMW 320d e93, going to have a good practice on it before I do mine on the car just a clean out as you did yourself. Cheers pal love the channel. Joe
Awesome plan!
Great videos! I been watching a few of your videos and they ae very detailed. I have a 2004 BMW 525D E60 and I will be using your content to help me through a few projects I been wanting to do. Thanks and keep up the great content.
Glad you like them!
@@StevenBTuner i watched all of it. I am saying that not all turbos are equally adjusted in my experience. I use a diagnostic tool to show me values and adjust accordingly.
@@marcass100 Hi, even 2 identical turbos will be set differently if they have been calibrated by different companies. This is one of those situations where the car's own self test is the only one that really matters.
@@StevenBTuner do you think that self test is very much affected by small margins? I have been messing with these Mitsubishi turbos and these actuators for a while now and i am finding that there isnt much difference in +/- few rotations on a thread. But yeah I do try to use the same adjustment method like you just never found it noticeable on the road if its one turn one way or another. Obviously too much and it doesn't pull or overboosts but in my amateur experience there is room for mechanical adjustment without getting it completely wrong.
@@marcass100 Hi, your observations match mine - there is a fair bit of variance allowed for in the system. Part of it is because there is going to be linkage wear over time, and everything needs to work even with a bit of slack in the joints. Another reason that it doesn't have to be precise is the position of the VNT vanes does not have to match up with a particular boost level - if the engine needs more boost then it will adjust the position, and if that is not enough then it will adjust some more...continuously.
Very detailed video
Hi, thanks for watching!
Great video .
Thanks - I hope it helps you out!
Great video, thanks!
Welcome!
very nice video. thank you
Glad you liked it!
Very Nice education video 😉
Thank you 🤗
Great video
Thanks for the visit
@@StevenBTuner No probs Steven. What is the best way to diesel bleed a m57 as the fuel rail has been off for a while and the car is together now but wont start?
Very good.
Hi Stephen.
Great stuff for all your vidoes. My DPF is now clean 1/5 ltr volume back up to 2.5 ltr clear volume in the cleaned DPF.
I was wondwering what your thoughts are for what might create "back" pressure at the PCV re-entry point between the air filter and the turbo intake on a cold start?
I suspect a sticky/badly seated inlet valve????
I have a Suzuki Grand Vitara MkIII 2005-2014 1.9 Diesel
Hi, great work on getting your DPF clean! I'm not familiar with your car, but dirty/clogged pcv systems can be quite common on some models.
Great video Steven I like your pen markings ref torque settings I worked in Motorsport for many years I have a question for your my e83 X3 turbo diesel 2006 has black smoke coming from exhaust on heavy acceleration ..it's not excessive but I striped out intake hoses and there's slight oil present in the turbo intake pipe ..it's not much oil ..should this be a concern
Hi, some oil in the intake system is completely normal and won't cause you any problems. Black smoke is going to be from unburnt diesel - so either the injector nozzles could do with a clean or a tune has been applied to the engine that is going a bit far on the fueling.
Hello. I reconditioned the turbine following your steps. BMW E87 118d M47. Everything was perfect. I have a little doubt. I have a Hella actuator on the turbine and the calibration was done by turning on the ignition and turning the cold side of the turbine so that the rod enters the actuator easily. I'm not sure if I did it right.
Hi, if the turbo doesn't come on boost until 3000rpm, or alternatively if it comes on strong at the low end and then runs out of puff at 3500rpm then you have got it a long way off.
good nice informative videos
Hi, thanks for watching, and I'm glad you find them useful!
@StevenBTuner thank you for answering, I have the second problem the turbo doesnt works at any time. This problem comes after changing the termostat, what I firstly think I didnt set the pipe from the Air filter to the turbo well, but was ok.
What do you recomend me to do? Clean the VNT?
Thanks
Time to hit the live data diagnostics with an OBD2 reader (Autel AP200 or better). Start with making sure the car is getting fully up to temperature. If the turbo is clogged up then you need to see why - it can be a malfunctioning EGR valve, bad glow plug relay, boost leaks. If your DPF regeneration is not working then your turbo will get clogged up too! Good luck with the troubleshooting!
Did you have to readjust actuator after? I have found quite a few original turbos having actuator adjusted differently. Have you tried connecting a scan tool and checking boost pressures and comparing them (actual and specified)?
Hi, see towards the end of the vid...
I love you’re content really detailed and informational can I ask if you one thing can show us how you took the turbo of from the car if you ever get the chance too please thank you so much for the BMMER Diesel content
Hi, the turbo will probably be coming out again this year after I experiment with 3 bar of boost (probably in a lot more pieces) so there will be a chance to film the steps, although getting a camera into some of the places might be big challenge as it is difficult enough to get a small spanner in to some spots!
Steven B. Tuner yeah you are 100 percent right even if you just have it from a far and then explain it as you’re doing maybe you’re a smart guy I’m sure you will figure it out thank you again it makes me more comfortable to have a go on my 2010 E92 320D Coupe also can you as you’re doing it also tell us the size of bolts nuts ect ect to each component I know I’m asking a lot lol cheers mate
Hi Steven on my 2006 diesel X3 the air pipe going into the top right side of the engine the 1 coming up from the charge pipe ..is very loose on connection to the intake hole ..should it be loose it moves around with ease I know they have special clips on them ..any thoughts
Hi, there shouldn't be much movement on any of the pipes. However, if there is no oil spray nearby then it is not an issue yet.
Its like watching Cody's Lab but with BMWs
Hi Steve, i have a e60 and i am wondering if i can use same procedure as you on my turbo actuator for recalibration after changing the turbo CHA. Do you know that?
Hi, some of the E60s have the same turbo as in the vid, so it could definitely work in that case.
Hi Steven, thanks for your video. I have a question, I changed the cartridge, and then I had a loss of power until 3k rpm and fault code of 44cc. On the next day I started the car and feel the boost come back and no faults. After I stopped my car and started again, and again no boost and fault appeared. My actuator is operating manually by hands, but seems like it’s not operating electronically. I was trying to find to buy an other actuator but I found that exactly this type of actuators that you have and I have, they was going on n47 engines, and m47 actuators look different. Does this turbo been fitted from n47 engine into m47 engine ? As I’m confused now. I don’t know how to act atm and which way should I go.
Hi, there are a number of turbos and actuators that go on the m47 engines. I have an N47 turbo and actuator here, and the actuator looks to be the same as the one on the car in the vid: 320D M47 TU2 from 12/2005.
Ive been looking at buying a cartidge replacement kit on ebay and have a big rubber o-ring but yours didnt is that because yours is oem.. and is the rubber o ring to replace the metal gasket ?
Hi, thanks for watching! The turbo featured in the video is an OEM Mitsubishi that was used in the 2.0 diesels from 2005 - 2007. I would be a bit wary of a lot of the offerings on Ebay unless they come from a (relatively) local shop with a solid reputation where you can call someone up and talk to them - there are just too many very convincing fake turbo parts floating around now. A different turbo may use an o ring on the compressor side, whereas the unit in the vid doesn't have one.
Hi Stephen I have a small leak on my x3 turbo diesel 2006 when accelerating hard ..it smokes from cold but is worse in cold weather it runs on 10/30 oil at present would it be ok to run it on 10/40 oil in the winter to stop oil consumption
Hi, I have never heard of any downside to using 10w40 or 5w40 or 0w40 instead except for a very small reduction in fuel efficiency. I'm not sure if it will make any difference to your oil leak though!
Hi Steven, What size is your Ultrasonic Cleaner as I’m looking to buy one and I need to make sure my Turbo housing will fit. Looking at a 3L one.
Cheers,
Steve.
Hi, thanks for watching and commenting! The one in the vid is 10 liters, so 3 liters might do it if the dimensions are just right. Best of luck with your turbo restoration.
Cracking video. Quick question for you, do these turbos not need to be checked for excessive end float?
Hi, thanks for watching! Absolutely, if there is any shaft movement then put in a new cartridge while everything is apart.
can you do a show for the error code stating the fuel injector is out of limits .. i have had it attempted to be fixed at Bakersfield bmw and after 6500 and some other parts replaced the error code came up again ... fuel injector 1 out of limits...
Hi, thanks for watching! That could be a very tricky error to diagnose because so many things could cause it including a bad fuel injector, HP fuel pump, a sensor, or a bad re-map...
A question steven, can i do the calibration before putting back the housing ? So i can see the path max and min directly ? as on calibration part of the vid ?
Hi, you will have to have everything bolted together first.
Hi thank you soo much for this video. Ive had my bmw 320d turbo gone cars lost power and I can hear a loud whining noise. After watching this im wondering can I fix the issue with little costs than buying a new turbo ? And would it be simple for me to locate the damaged part by just looking? Thanks again
Also i have 140000 miles on the clock
Hi, thanks for watching! The whining noise could indicate that the bearings are worn out, which causes the impeller blades to rub against the housing. You can check this by looking in the front of the turbo and seeing if the shaft moves for and aft, and whether there is scoring on the alloy housing and/or broken or chipped blades. It could be that to fix those things ends up costing as much as a reconditioned turbo from a reputable company.
Nice work.. I have 120d with Garrett 1752v turbo and it's whistle when accelerate, no cat on car, it is remaped, is this normal? I think that before is not whistled, no signs of radial and axial wear, only slightly damaged cold side propeller
Hi, whistling is never the best sign as it is caused by the blades rubbing on the alloy housing. The re-map may be pushing the turbo to spin faster than before, so the sound is a bit more obvious.
@@StevenBTuner Thanks, i will remove it from car and send to rebuild
Hi my e90 330d has a bit of oil in the charge pipes, is the seal for the turbo in the cartridge?
Hi, a little bit of oil on the intake compressor side is usually nothing to worry about, but a new cartridge kit will improve it.
I think my Boost solenoid is on the verge of dying in my 320d E90 m47, however I can not find any info on where it is exactly. Could you help me ?
Thanks
Hi, thanks for watching! Your 320D doesn't have a boost solenoid, it has instead a Hella electronic actuator that controls the variable vanes on the turbo nozzle ring - you will see it in the video as it is part of the turbo. The actuator has parts that can wear out, but a stuck actuator can also be as a result of the variable nozzle ring being completely rusted up (not likely if you have a DPF) or clogged up with soot as a result of some other failure.
can you please solve my a problem, sorry for my english Im spanish.
I have a e46 320 cd, when I turn thw key the actuator sounds like an turn indicator relé, its only actuator problem?
Hi, there can be two reasons for that happening. The actuator can be starting to fail - and you will notice that sometimes the car has full power and sometimes the power is low. The other reason is that the actuator is fine but it is getting stuck as the VNT ring is either clogged up or is broken - and the car will probably be low on power all of the time. If you leave the second problem for long enough then the actuator will eventually fail too.
Hi Steven, would adding Seafoam in the fuel tank every 8000 Km worth it as a preventative measure? My car is only 40K so far?
Hi, thanks for watching! I am not sure that the fuel tank treatment would be enough, but the Seafoam treatment that you add directly to the intake system might very well do some cleaning of the turbo, in addition to the engine. I haven't tested it myself, but it might be something for the future.
Use a map torch and heat the aluminium housing, should expand enough for ezy removal.. lot of wd40 first though
Hi, thanks for the great suggestion! I'll give it a try next time.
Hi Stephen I have a BMW X3 e83 2006 there is much oil in the air charge pipe and I think it's getting into the exhaust ..would oil leak out on turbo if seals were bad on idle when not revving high low tick over.
Hi, it can be a bit tricky to diagnose as there is often a bit of oil in the charge pipes even in a new car. If there is a lot of oil going into the exhaust then you will have to top up the oil every month, and the DPF will show more and more back pressure.
@@StevenBTuner thanks would it be a idear just to replace turbo easy to replace I'd seals gone.
Hi, if it is the turbo then you can either replace the whole thing or replace the individual components as shown in my vid - the choice is yours depending on how much DIY you feel like doing. Another thing check is whether the excessive oil is coming from the crankcase - this can happen when the rocker cover gasket gets old and lets boost pressure go where it shouldn't.
Hi Steven, great video. Do you know what torque the nuts on the turbine housing (exhaust side) are supposed to be? I didn't strip mine down as meticulously as you and mixed all the bolts up too. oops.
Aaah, unfortunately not. I hope you can track down some specs!
@@StevenBTuner I didn't manage to find them so I just tightened them up as much as i reasonably could with a short spanner. No leaks or problems so fingers crossed it's ok. Thanks again for the vid.
@@DanAir You probably know from experience what it's like if you tighten little bolts too far. I'll keep my finger's crossed 🙂
Would this be similar for the m57 small turbo?
Hi, there are quite a few differences - so it would definitely be worth finding specific information if you can.
Nice video. I would suggest pick up the pace a little bit since it may keep the interest of new viewers while not overwhelming someone attempting to do this their self and follow along.
Best of luck.
Hi Steven. Does the same procedure also work for a 2008 bmw 320d e92, n47 engine? Thank you
Hi, the turbo is not the same, but the parts are similar and the techniques used in the video will still apply.
@@StevenBTuner Thank you. I will try next weekend.
Hy steve my question has nothing to do with turbo but its for the same engine
Mine eso in the moring i have to start 3 plus times before it can start it jus start and fades crank starts n fades until the 3rd time
Hi, I would check out the EGR valve and glow plugs first. All the best in getting everything working 100% again!
How much is the air propeller supposed to be able to move?..
Mine moves a bit, but i dont know if its too much and if the gasket or bearing is done..
Hi, moving in and out by about 1mm is okay, but moving side to side so that the blades hit the alloy case is definitely a bad sign.
@StevenBTuner after my disassembly i found out that the cast iron was cracked.. and i cannot find any spare parts in my region, so going for new turbo.
Btw i used a 10mm wrench and used the rounded U side to remove the nozzle ring, pry'ed a little in the star pattern it was really stuck, but with minimal pressure it popped of easy alltough.
Sounds like you're on top of things :-)
I have no In-and-Out play, but i have about 1mm of side-to-side play. It doesn't seem to be hitting the alloy casing since i dont see any scratch marks, it just gets close to it. But it also whistles a bit.. has been doing that for a long long time..but you can only notice it when aircon is off and no music so that the interior is silent.. and at low speeds, wind noise easily overcomes the whistle. New cartrige needed? @@StevenBTuner
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Hey Steven you think turbo cleaner a good idea after dpf cleaning .... I think ill use wynns turbo cleaner
Hi, since your DPF and turbo are right next to each other, whatever you find in your DPF will also be in your turbo. For example, if your DPF is clogged up with lots of oily gunk then that is going to be in your turbo too, but if your DPF is in good condition (apart from the end-of-life ash clogging of course) then your turbo is probably ok too.
@@StevenBTuner thanks good info as usual 😉
Hi Steven! My actuator got blocked but turbo is still ok, I think the geometry is the reason why. I dont know if I should buy a new one or try to fix it, I am not really sure about the calibration. Please I need your support to decide! haha, thanks.
Hi, thanks for watching! My actuator has just started to fail, so my turbo is coming out soon too! Whether you replace the whole turbo depends on how old it is - If it has 100,000 miles on it then buying a new one, or doing a full re-build could be the best choice. Don't be too scared of the actuator - if you take some measurements from the old one, and then set the new one the same then it should be very close to right, if not perfect. Doing the actuator calibration as shown in the video will make sure it is near enough to 100% right. I should mention that it is possible to re-build the actuator as well, and I will be doing that in a future video. All the best in getting your turbo back to full health!
@@StevenBTuner are you a kind of god? haha Best channel/youtuber ever! Thanks a lot bro.
@@StevenBTuner id really like to see how the actuator could be rebuilt :) great content!
If I were to just replace the actuator with a new one without taking the turbo out of the car, does it need any adjusting?
I have a theory that if I open the actuator arm fully manually it shouldnt le me open it too much as the vanes inside are still connected, then unlock the car so the actuator opens fully as well and then tighten it?
Hi, if you can measure the distance or number of threads then you should be able to get it pretty close. When it does a self test it might tell you if it is way out, if not then you will find that boost comes on way too late, or doesn't come on fully - and then you can try one turn and see what changes...
@@StevenBTuner good ideas! thank you :)
@@StevenBTuner Hello Steven one more question finally have new actuator on the way, how is the lever held on the actual rod, its not very clear from the video does it just slide on?
There are many 500tkm driven diesel e90s. I wonder how many times their parts are changed and what was the total cost of all maintainance. If you clean your e90 diesel turbo every lets say 80tkm, is it possible that it wont broke before half million?
Hi, a good video idea! :-) The turbo is already cleaned as a side effect of the normal DPF regeneration cycle, so it shouldn't need any manual cleaning. The way to kill the turbo is to not change the engine oil often enough or to drive the car hard and then turn off the engine straight away (and repeat for years). E90 turbos aren't water cooled like later models, so you need to treat them well to get a really long life. At 500tkm the engine is probably on its second set of injectors (unless nozzle cleans have been done every 150-200tkms), its 2nd or 3rd DPF (or full ash cleaning has been done), and its 2nd or 3rd turbo. Like most cars, the economics don't really make sense when a car is over 12 years old / 300tkms as the maintenance costs will overtake how much the car is worth - unless you do the work yourself ;-)
@@StevenBTuner Most of the time they break on BMW because the DPF is clogged, the DPF is too small on BMW. BMW crap oil change interval is also a factor.
@@kaankumas61 Hi, a blocked DPF will do the turbo absolutely no favors. There are not that many different DPFs used throughout the BMW range, so sometimes they are on the small side, and sometimes a bit larger than necessary...
How can you get a dirtier turbo if you remove DPF? The DPF is after the turbo…
Hi, thanks for watching! On vehicles that don't have an integrated Diesel Oxidation Catalyst. like the 2006 BMW from the video, the DPF regeneration is done by a post injection pulse from the fuel injectors in combination with activation of the glow plugs, which ignites the diesel. This technique heats up and cleans everything in its path including the exhaust valves, exhaust manifold, turbo and then finally the DPF. In fact the turbo vanes get a better clean than the DPF because they are hit with a higher temperature. If you remove the DPF and disable the regeneration cycles, then there is no longer periodic cleaning of the turbo or exhaust manifold either.
I need some information, i have the BMW E90 320D, 2005 model. I need a new or used actuator, will a 2007 model E90 actuator work on my Turbo. PLEASE HELP
Hi, thanks for watching! They look identical. The actuator part number on the 2005 is: 135-19495 K006T50171 5623 , and the part number on the 2007 is: 135-19611 K006T50172 6X30. I don't know whether that 1 number difference is anything significant, or just a revision.
@@StevenBTuner Okay Thank You, so it might work then... I realy hope so
@@StevenBTunerI dont know if the shaft of the Actuator will be the same length. Might be the only problem
Hi, I just measured the actuator travel on each and they are within a millimeter of each other - I couldn't get a more accurate measurement while they are still in their housing. I would bet on them being interchangeable.
@@StevenBTuner Thank you Steven you are awsum.
Hi Steven.
Firstly fantastic channel!
I have an E90 320d M47 M sport.
I have been chasing a no boost until 2k problem and after checking almost everywhere else I found with washing up liquid air spewing from middle top section of the turbo ,
At 1st I thought maybe the v groove clamp but is not where it meets exhaust but center of the turbo !
Any help/advice would be greatly appreciated sir 🙏
Hi, there a fair chance that the housing is cracked - time for a re-build or replacement.
@@StevenBTuner apparently was replaced just prior to me purchasing so maybe not tightened enough?
Once the turbo comes in it goes like a rocket 🚀
@@snatchwars Hmm, maybe... if the boost is good, but late, then it can also be an issue with the actuator, actuator calibration or VNT ring. Doesn't sound like the best replacement job was done!
@@StevenBTuner looks like I'll have to whip the thing out.
Just a thought but if they just straight changed the turbo without calibrating the actuator, what would happen?
@@snatchwars I installed a turbo that wasn't adjusted right, and nothing happened until 2500rpm and then bam - boost time! But a maladjustment could also mean that the car just goes into limp home mode too. You can adjust the actuator position while the turbo is in the car - the first step is to watch what it does when it performs its self test when you unlock the car with the remote. It should do a full sweep of the VNT positions and then lock in place ready for starting the car.
Mine m47s turbo is making some vine/moaning sound. Is it time to change the turbo?
Hi, you can get some high pitched noise if the shaft has fore/aft movement and it rubs against the alloy housing. It is pretty easy to see by removing the pipe going to the front of the turbo and having a look. You can replace the turbo or just the cartridge if everything else looks okay.
@@StevenBTuner thanks for your response. The shaft/propeler moves quite much back and foward, but not up and down. Can you just thight it up or is it about to give upp?
@@victorlarsson1815 Hi, back and forth movement will lead to the blades hitting the casing and breaking off eventually, so it is a bit of a ticking timebomb.
Hi Steve what make of spanners are they ?
Hi, I have a lot of different brands in my tool collection. Is there a particular one you were referring to?
@@StevenBTuner the combination spanners with the deep ring at 90 deg to the open end, like in this video
How much should a turbo replacement cost
Hi, thanks for watching! The turbo featured in this video is a small Mitsubishi (branded as BMW), and is pretty cheap as far as turbos go at a few hundred dollars. Be aware that there a lot of cheaper copies now appearing that look the same, but don't have either BMW or Mitsubishi on them, so the quality is completely unknown.
where did you get that blue key!?
Hi, thanks for watching and commenting! That is the normal key covered in laser-cut 3M blue carbon wrap, and I got it from an Ebay seller. I didn't expect it to last, but it is going strong after more than 4 years of being dropped, rubbed against other keys and generally abused. Unfortunately, I can't recall the seller I got it from.
@@StevenBTuner brilliant! Thanks very much for the reply. Love it!
Great i OWN a m47tud2.
Perfect!
@@StevenBTuner hey mate, you should buy a cheap used E60 520d and believe me , you'll get million views with it and expand your channel even more .lot of People OWN these Cars and don't Know how to deal with problems .... Unlike me hahaha. What you think about this. You can perfectly rebuild it with your tech brain 😉
A better solution to remove the vains ect is put it side ways and use a blow torch to warm it up a bit itll soften the soot and litterally fall off
Hi, thanks for that great suggestion!
Have you ever considered rebuilding your diesel BMW's turbo?
lots of blue smoke with my 335d I think seals are bad in the turbo. do you think its worth try to rebuild?
Hi, once the seals are gone you'll probably find the VNT ring is on its way out too, so there is a good chance that a new turbo is more cost effective. All the best in getting your BMW back to full health!
I got a central cartridge for £55 and not that I needed one but the vane assembly you can get for around £70 so definitely worth overhauling yourself as a a turbo complete is over £200. Instead of using a puller to remove the cane assy, I soaked in wd40 for an hour then used the open end of a spanner as a lever either side and it popped right off. 👍 great video by the way- thanks
Steven B. Tuner Thanks. Turns out I was getting crankcase pressure from a poorly designed oil catch can system Took it off and went back to the stock CCV and it has resolved my issue.
@@bensimms3755 Great to hear that you got to the bottom of the issue! (although it is always a bit sad to hear that what was supposed to be an improvement ends up being a greater problem...)
try plusgas next time, far superior to WD40 for loosening fings .
Good suggestion!
@@StevenBTuner yep, i know.
how reliable is it after repair if compared with new turbo? I have some issues with mine, and don't know which is best
Hi, thanks for watching! A new turbo is always going to be the best solution, and for these engines they are not that expensive.
@@StevenBTuner ok, thanks for the advice
Everyone please do not follow Steven where he says use those pushing bolts to remove the turbine housing! You will crack your impeller side housing especially when the turbine side is really tight and seized. The impeller side housing is weak aluminium alloy.
...and your recommended fail-safe method to share with everyone is?
@@StevenBTuner its not as fail safe but much better. WD40 and heat is all you need. Empty the whole can of wd40 into the exhaust or turbine side. leave it for hours. then heat the exhaust side housing, knock it lightly and it will fall out. Of course you can use the forcing screws to put some little pressure on the housing. I have seen workmates crack that impeller housing because they tried to force it out without using heat and wd40.
@@tavasikachabvonga5026 Thanks - that is a great suggestion!
@@tavasikachabvonga5026 That´s exactly how I cracked the impeller housing, just force and no heat! You´re right on this, later on I tried with a gas torch and it came off easily (just too late in that case, but at least I learned something..). Instead of the normal WD40 I would recommend a special rust remover.
@@andykarmann2716 you right. use a lot of rust remover and soak it for some hours if need be
If you take off dpf filter, turbo will be cleaner not dirtier, there is nothing to hold up soot, it fly's away thru exhaust
Hi, thanks for watching! There are a lot of small moving parts in a variable nozzle turbo, so there are a lot places for soot to build up. If the DPF has been removed and the DPF 600 degree Celcius regeneration cycle cancelled, then there is no longer any soot burn-off cycle to remove the build-up. How much of a problem this becomes depends on your engine tuning and driving habits. There is another issue that can occur when a DPF is removed and you live in place with high humidity - and that is that your variable nozzle parts can rust when you leave your vehicle parked up outside for a couple of weeks when you go on holiday (for example), and the moist air enters the exhaust pipe and can travel unhindered all the way to the turbo. This is especially a problem if you put on a big bore straight pipe exhaust.
My 120d didn't have dpf only cat,
Can you hear from this video what could be the problem, my engine in 120d is to loud,
m.czcams.com/video/2RcZflBiiVk/video.html
My buddy have e90 with same m47 engine and it's a lot quieter, i only have downpipe, on my car, he had straight pipe exhaust, video is taken with same phone, i replaced crankshaft pulley, but sound is still there, like engine is whine, ac, alternator, all is good
Really don’t like the vids that have this background music. It’s off-putting and quite annoying. Massive fan of Steve though.
Hi, I understand - it is on my list to re-release all of the vids with the music removed.
Hey Steven, I have a question. I think it’s time for me to replace my turbo. I have made a video about the play that is currently on the axle. Could you please take a look at my video and share your thoughts?
I’m doubting between restoring it in the same way as you showed in your video and just buying a new one. With regards to buying a new one, I’m not sure which brand to go for. I have not done thorough research about this yet, but I was wondering if I can get your advice. I’m currently doubting between OEM and Garrett.
My 120d has done a little over 390.000 km currently. I’m planning on keeping her until at least 500.000 km. I’m looking forward to reading your thoughts.
Please note that I’ve listed additional detailed information in the description of my video.
Link to my video: czcams.com/video/5f1h8-VoUSQ/video.html
Hi, that turbo is not looking in the best shape! While it is entirely possible to change out the cartridge on that turbo, you might find that in a year it needs a new VNT ring, and then a year after that a new actuator etc - so you have to come to your own conclusion about how much fun it is to take the turbo out :-) I would go for a brand new OEM and be confident that it is good for another 190,000kms, and they can be found brand new in a few places other than BMW (search on the BMW part number to start with).
@@StevenBTuner I apologize for my late reply. I DID read your message, but did not have time to respond and then forgot about it for a few weeks. I'm sorry!
When researching to buying a new one, I could not find any. All turbo's I found were restored. I also contacted some companies and concluded that they all did the same: namely changing the cartridge and call it restored. Hence I decided to do it myself and follow the instructions from your video. I'm very happy I did! It was a very good learning opportunity and it gave me great insight into the state of the internal components. The VNT looked brilliant actually (luckily), the actuator seemed fine (except for some play on the arm connecting the actuator with the VNT, that was worn out). My car runs a lot better now and it only costed me around €280. She also stopped consuming liters and liters of oil, which was obviously due to the incredible play.
Keep up the amazing videos. I love them! As you might remember I have also done your creative DPF-cleaning method, something I'm still content with.
Regards, Woudjee
@@woudjee2 That's really great to hear - well done!
Hey Steven, I have a different question which I don’t know where to put, so I’ll put it here. My car has just reached 400.000km, something which I’m super happy about, I really want to push through to the half a million, but I’m worried about my oil consumption. As you know, I’m a sensible but quick driver. Over the past 1.750 km she has drank 750 mL of oil. I feel that’s a bit much. I would have accepted 200 mL during this distance. The kilometers have been through Germany and the Swiss alps as I’m currently still in Switzerland. I feel that with a little slower driving this number van be 600 mL per 2.000 km, which I would still find quite a lot.
I would consider doing an engine rebuild, replacing the piston rings and the valve seals. I’m wondering what you’re thoughts are about what I should do. I don’t want to buy a new car, I want my E81 to reach the 500.000 km. 👍
@@woudjee2 Hi! It might seem like a lot, but for most cars out there that would not be enough to force a dealer to investigate an issue on a car that is one year old. Of course it always a good idea to make sure there are no oil leaks near the oil filter or from the rocker cover seal, as well as making sure the turbo isn't leaking oil (you have already looked after that). A rebuild is pretty drastic action to stop a bit of oil usage, and often works out a lot more expensive than buying a suitable low km engine. I think you could very well reach that 500 000 km goal.