From the Orca Boats series of videos on wood strip kayak building. This video shows the basic steps in fiber glassing a wood strip kayak hull using epoxy resins.
this was fantastic!! thank you so much. i have a beloved chesapeake lt that desperately needs a reglass. now i have a clue. and your generosity with comments below answered so many questions.
coat the hull with epoxy first, let it get tacky, then roll the glass over. The tacky surface also helps hold the fabric tightly to the hull. Then start wetting out. Bare wood literally pulls epoxy out of the weave as it sets up so you have to coat first to get the strongest possible hull.
Maybe it's different for canoes/kayaks, but when I was a kid when I wasn't in school, I worked at a boatyard that did big restorations of old wooden boats, yachts, and speedboats. The oldtimers taught me never to glass on dry wood. If you lay up fiber on dry wood without priming, the wood can actually pull the resin through your glass and soak it up leaving you with a dry layup that's going to delaminate,but you'll never see it, because the outside will look perfectly "wet." The procedure I was taught was to prime the wood with a resin thinned with styrene (depending on the "thirstiness" of the wood, thinned between 5-10%) until it won't soak into the wood anymore. I've seen dry wood soak in up to 4 coats of resin! Give it one more coat of resin (not thinned with styrene this time) and lay up.
For simple lay up for cedar strip small boats, penetration of resin will be a good enough bond. I can understand that if you were laminating larger pieces of wood and they were more structural to the integrity of a large boat, making sure the resin is well absorbed would be important especially on end grain or open grain wood.
You keep posting the same message throughout many of my videos. Questions and comments are welcome but let's try to comment on something different of I will have no choice but to ban you from posting.
If you can not return it to place of purchase, then it can be used for laminating wood together such as your stems or gluing gunwales on. Just not anywhere visible as it is likely to yellow over time or turn white when moisture is absorbed.
I'm thinking about building a teardrop camper using this method if it durable enough for a canoe and doesn't leak it should work for a camper as long as uv doesn't cause it to deteriorate
@Bill Thurman Hi. Have you started building your camper? I am also thinking of using this method for my wooden bathtub that I want to put inside my van. I haven't got the funds yet. But I am working on my design. I plan to put 2 beds inside my van. I know most people with a van usually put a full bed straight across the back. But it's 3 of us. And also the design I am thinking of coming up with is an open concept floor plan. So one bed I am planing to design totally collapsible and will either be hanging from the side or the top when not in use. And the other one a long convertible bench to use for the dining/siting area. Also I am based in California and was wondering if I could offer some custom designing suggestions in exchange for help with my van? If not I understand.
interesting points ,if anyone else wants to learn about small boat building plans try Joolaim Rudder Replication (just google it ) ? Ive heard some incredible things about it and my neighbor got amazing results with it.
Thanks very much for this informative video. The only point I would like to know is how you treated glassing the leading/trailing edges only the exterior coat on the stem and stern. Do you overlap from one side to the other, apply a covering strip? Apart from that, I'm confident from your tutorial that I can attempt glassing my under. construction Mattawa. Thank you so much.
On some kayaks, the glass will conform to the outer stem, but on most I let the glass run off the end, let the epoxy harden and then later add a bias cut piece glass over the ends.
Very detailed video. Thanks much for making this. Can you kindly tell me if there is any special care to be taken if two layers of fiberglass cloth are applied in one go ? Thanks -
I would not recommend doing both at once if trying to have a clear finish. Very hard to get them to clear out with resin. Do first layer with several coats of epoxy, let harden, sand surface and then apply second layer. If painting then go ahead with both at once, but will take more time to absorb and saturate.
If you wish to have a transparent finish, then yes you should be using the 207 hardener. It costs more, but is specially designed for clear coating. 206 may blush and you may end up with a whitish colour after a while.
I've watched your videos many times I finally subscribed. I don't know why it took me so long. You do great work and thank you for good videography. I have a question. I'm building a cedar-strip indoor shower and a cabin and want to use your method to Accent the beautiful Cedar strips and waterproof the walls and floor. How would I finish?
Are you planning on fiber glassing the whole thing? You might need to fiberglass both sides of the enclosure so that ambient humidity can not get into the wood from the back as this will eventually destroy your outside finish.
OrcaBoats czcams.com/video/BmINHO5gadE/video.html This is the wall prep in this video. Then I can set the board in Mash take and nail it or just nail it before I fiberglass over it
How smooth a finish would you be hoping for? Wood surfaces would need to be pretty smooth so that you do not have any air bubbles in the glass. And if you plan to sand smooth the resin, the floor will be very slippery so you might look into some sort of coating for non-skid. but if all sealed in glass and resin, that would be pretty cool. I have seen hot tubs and bath tubs done in cedar strip/epoxy.
Yes I was want to finish the looks just like the bottom of your script Cedar boat. So the walls would be really smooth what I just tip the last coat and call it a day or do I need to seal it with something after that? And the floor I'd probably have to send that just to knock any hairs down on it and then in the final lair there is a clear aggregate for non-slip surfaces that I have used for other coatings that I could possibly add to it to make it a little bit non-slip. The question is how do I seal the last coating of West epoxy or is that good enough? By the way thank you so much for taking the time share your experience
On a boat, the final coat of epoxy is sanded smooth and then varnished since we need to protect the epoxy from UV damage. On your wall, if you roll on epoxy and tip off, you can get a pretty smooth surface. Since you really don't need that much structural strength, go with a light weight glass so you do not need that much epoxy. but you will still need to sand a bit to get rid of edges of glass since you will likely need to overlap at seams to cover whole area.
Hi. Nice work. I would like to know about the fabric gramature (fabric grams), viscosity of the resin and in case of ship modelling Hull i can apply only one coat of resin. Thank you.
The cloth is 6 oz and the resin is West brand with 207 clear hardener. On a model I would think that a simple coat of resin would suffice to hold things together.
How long do you wait between coats? I am going to try my luck at a making wooden bath tub this year from maple bubinga and purpe heart. What type and brand cloth and resin wood you recomend? You make it look easy I am going to have to make a few smaller project first for the learning curve. LOL Beautiful job by
I use West resins. If you are looking for a clear coat, then any fiberglass heavier than a standard 6 oz weave will not go clear so if you feel you need more strength than that would give, then add another layer of glass. Typically at room temperature and with the West 207 hardener that is used for clear coating, I can re-coat within 3-4 hours. Less if hotter than 70 degrees F.
Great video, very informative! May I ask for some advice, I'm currently building an R/C ship and was wondering what oz fiberglass you recommend. It is a 10 foot long model of RMS Titanic with a 173 pound displacement weight. The wood hull is made of 1/8" basswood plank on a 1/2" plywood frame. If you type "RMS Titanic (1:87 Scale) - 10ft R/C Model Build Log" into Google you'll find the model I'm working on.
I don't imagine there would be that much stress on the hull (hitting rocks, weight inside) so a light cloth if desired would suffice. May 2 oz or so. Would be easy to apply and not require that much resin. Might even get away with no cloth at all and just coat with epoxy.
I would waterproof the wall and floor with elastomeric coating. Then nail on cedar to walls and floor, then fiberglass over wood walls and floor sealing edges. What am i missing?
No. Just one layer inside and one out. Unless the customer requests extra layers, but this will add more weight and under regular use, is not warranted.
I know with sailboat layup of fiberglass most builders pre-treat the bare wood with epoxy before laying the glass because the bare wood will pull so much of the epoxy out of the cloth. Do you ever run into this problem?
I know lots of builders who recommend to pre-coat, but I have never had a problem with the process. I add more resin than required, get it on the boat as quickly as possible and then let it soak in. Once it begins to set up, then I will go back and remove excess. I do pre-coat the inside of kayak decks as I do not spend that much time fairing the inside as 90% of it will never be seen, so epoxy is used to fill gaps and smooth areas out.
There are other type of fiberglass that are treated with different chemicals to make them stronger and stiffer referred to as "S" glass. A little harder to wet out clear, but work just fine. If you want it much stronger, then yes another layer will really strengthen it up but also make it much heavier what with the need for a lot more resin.
Sorry for all those question but should I apply resin on the wood before the plexyglass? I have heared that it is necessery to stop the wood from absorving
Resin is West brand with 207 hardener for clear coating. Pot life on that hardener is around 20-30 minutes depending on how much is mixed up and temp of room. More info can be found on West resin web site.
If fiberglassing, then paint after. You will need the resin to soak into the wood for a good bond. After resin cures, sand it to a rough grit and then prime and paint.
On some of my kayaks the fiberglass will lay over the ends. Where that is not possible, I run the glass past the ends, then when cured, I scrape and sand it down and then apply a bias cut strip of fiberglass over the ends. Add a couple coats of epoxy, let it cure, sand down the rough edges and add a few more coats. Some builders don't even bother with this. They just sand and epoxy coat the ends.
I do not usually pre-coat the wood with resin and then sand before putting on the fiberglass and resin. I will however do that on the inside of the deck because I do not scrape the inside of the deck as much as no one will see 90% of it.
@@OrcaboatsCa i am building a small rv and using luan plywood as the outside wood any recommendations from start to finish? I want to glass it to give it a nice wood look outside. Thank you So much for responding and your help you rock.
@@montygrantham8631 I think you will want to make sure that all the wood is well sealed up with glass and epoxy. A bit of water in the wood and it will come apart quickly
+thomasjeffersoncry The idea is to build up enough resin thickness so that you can sand the surface smooth without cutting into the glass. More thin coats is easier to apply. Varnish is then needed to protect the resin from UV degradation.
I am thinking about building a 38ft Catamaran, cedar strip glass coated, I will need a plan for al the structural and the outer dimensions what are your thoughts?
that boat will be nice and last a while but he should have laid resin on the wood and let set up for a day the did the glassing over the top the more resin you get to soak in to the wood the longer it will last and the stronger it will be. doing it the way he is doing it makes sense if your trying to keep labor costs down
I disagree. The wood will soak up as much resin as it can whether you put on a pre-coat or not. Many do pre-coat the wood before hand, but with more experience you can do it all in one go. And if you let it set up, then you have to sand the resin to give it a "tooth" for the next coat to bond to. And a mechanical bond of glass and resin on second coat may not be as strong as a full initial coat all as one. Either way, done well, the boat will last a long time.
Some folks put down a coat of epoxy on the bare wood before glassing it up (for optimum adhesion/avoidance of dry spots I'm told). Appears that you don't. Care to comment? Thanks.
Lots of questions on that. I have done hundreds of coats of resin on glass and do not find pre-coating to be necessary. If you have not glassed before, it might be useful until you have at least one experience at it to know you the process works.
I've glassed and worked with epoxies, just not over wood. Appears to be another case of more than one way to achieve a good result. Thanks for the quick reply.
You obviously know what's up. I've seen people add resin to the surface first, then add the mat on top and another layer of resin on top. What say you?
Many people do "pre-coat" the wood beforehand, but on a small surface like a kayak, you should be able to get it all done in short order. If pre-coating, then you would have to wait until it either cures and sand the surface or wait until the epoxy is cured enough so that you can lay the glass down without it sticking to the surface so you can smooth it out. This means just the right timing so that saturation coat of epoxy on glass bonds to pre-coat layer.
I know some people hate them, but in 20 years, I have never had a batch of epoxy fail from using the pumps. I keep them clean, are always in a heated shop and change them every 2 years or so. Mind you I use them pretty much every day for something, so they never sit idle or dry out inside. If yours are clogging up, try wrapping the tops in a cloth soaked in solvent and then put a small zip lock bag over top overnight. In the morning you can wipe them clean as new.
We enjoyed the sweet music!
this was fantastic!! thank you so much. i have a beloved chesapeake lt that desperately needs a reglass. now i have a clue. and your generosity with comments below answered so many questions.
You work that resin like an artist. Nice
Wow that is absolutely stunning. Beautiful woodwork made more beautiful and obviously waterproof by the application of fibreglass.
coat the hull with epoxy first, let it get tacky, then roll the glass over. The tacky surface also helps hold the fabric tightly to the hull. Then start wetting out. Bare wood literally pulls epoxy out of the weave as it sets up so you have to coat first to get the strongest possible hull.
Very cool...great looking kayak.
Very practical tips. Thanks.
Maybe it's different for canoes/kayaks, but when I was a kid when I wasn't in school, I worked at a boatyard that did big restorations of old wooden boats, yachts, and speedboats. The oldtimers taught me never to glass on dry wood. If you lay up fiber on dry wood without priming, the wood can actually pull the resin through your glass and soak it up leaving you with a dry layup that's going to delaminate,but you'll never see it, because the outside will look perfectly "wet." The procedure I was taught was to prime the wood with a resin thinned with styrene (depending on the "thirstiness" of the wood, thinned between 5-10%) until it won't soak into the wood anymore. I've seen dry wood soak in up to 4 coats of resin! Give it one more coat of resin (not thinned with styrene this time) and lay up.
For simple lay up for cedar strip small boats, penetration of resin will be a good enough bond. I can understand that if you were laminating larger pieces of wood and they were more structural to the integrity of a large boat, making sure the resin is well absorbed would be important especially on end grain or open grain wood.
*thumbs up
You keep posting the same message throughout many of my videos. Questions and comments are welcome but let's try to comment on something different of I will have no choice but to ban you from posting.
Thats polyesther Resin
Thank you for the prompt reply. I just ordered the 207 and hopefully will find a use for the 206 at some point.
If you can not return it to place of purchase, then it can be used for laminating wood together such as your stems or gluing gunwales on. Just not anywhere visible as it is likely to yellow over time or turn white when moisture is absorbed.
Amazing. What an artist.
With those resin coats you put on more fiberglass aswell?
I'm thinking about building a teardrop camper using this method if it durable enough for a canoe and doesn't leak it should work for a camper as long as uv doesn't cause it to deteriorate
@Bill Thurman
Hi. Have you started building your camper? I am also thinking of using this method for my wooden bathtub that I want to put inside my van. I haven't got the funds yet. But I am working on my design. I plan to put 2 beds inside my van. I know most people with a van usually put a full bed straight across the back. But it's 3 of us. And also the design I am thinking of coming up with is an open concept floor plan. So one bed I am planing to design totally collapsible and will either be hanging from the side or the top when not in use. And the other one a long convertible bench to use for the dining/siting area. Also I am based in California and was wondering if I could offer some custom designing suggestions in exchange for help with my van? If not I understand.
interesting points ,if anyone else wants to learn about small boat building plans try Joolaim Rudder Replication (just google it ) ? Ive heard some incredible things about it and my neighbor got amazing results with it.
Thanks very much for this informative video. The only point I would like to know is how you treated glassing the leading/trailing edges only the exterior coat on the stem and stern. Do you overlap from one side to the other, apply a covering strip? Apart from that, I'm confident from your tutorial that I can attempt glassing my under. construction Mattawa. Thank you so much.
On some kayaks, the glass will conform to the outer stem, but on most I let the glass run off the end, let the epoxy harden and then later add a bias cut piece glass over the ends.
good job
Very detailed video. Thanks much for making this. Can you kindly tell me if there is any special care to be taken if two layers of fiberglass cloth are applied in one go ? Thanks -
I would not recommend doing both at once if trying to have a clear finish. Very hard to get them to clear out with resin. Do first layer with several coats of epoxy, let harden, sand surface and then apply second layer. If painting then go ahead with both at once, but will take more time to absorb and saturate.
I am building my first canoe and got the West Systems 105 resin and 206 slow hardener. Should I have gotten the 207 clear hardener?
If you wish to have a transparent finish, then yes you should be using the 207 hardener. It costs more, but is specially designed for clear coating. 206 may blush and you may end up with a whitish colour after a while.
I've watched your videos many times I finally subscribed. I don't know why it took me so long. You do great work and thank you for good videography. I have a question. I'm building a cedar-strip indoor shower and a cabin and want to use your method to Accent the beautiful Cedar strips and waterproof the walls and floor. How would I finish?
Are you planning on fiber glassing the whole thing? You might need to fiberglass both sides of the enclosure so that ambient humidity can not get into the wood from the back as this will eventually destroy your outside finish.
OrcaBoats czcams.com/video/BmINHO5gadE/video.html
This is the wall prep in this video. Then I can set the board in Mash take and nail it or just nail it before I fiberglass over it
How smooth a finish would you be hoping for? Wood surfaces would need to be pretty smooth so that you do not have any air bubbles in the glass. And if you plan to sand smooth the resin, the floor will be very slippery so you might look into some sort of coating for non-skid. but if all sealed in glass and resin, that would be pretty cool. I have seen hot tubs and bath tubs done in cedar strip/epoxy.
Yes I was want to finish the looks just like the bottom of your script Cedar boat. So the walls would be really smooth what I just tip the last coat and call it a day or do I need to seal it with something after that? And the floor I'd probably have to send that just to knock any hairs down on it and then in the final lair there is a clear aggregate for non-slip surfaces that I have used for other coatings that I could possibly add to it to make it a little bit non-slip. The question is how do I seal the last coating of West epoxy or is that good enough? By the way thank you so much for taking the time share your experience
On a boat, the final coat of epoxy is sanded smooth and then varnished since we need to protect the epoxy from UV damage. On your wall, if you roll on epoxy and tip off, you can get a pretty smooth surface. Since you really don't need that much structural strength, go with a light weight glass so you do not need that much epoxy. but you will still need to sand a bit to get rid of edges of glass since you will likely need to overlap at seams to cover whole area.
Hi. Nice work. I would like to know about the fabric gramature (fabric grams), viscosity of the resin and in case of ship modelling Hull i can apply only one coat of resin. Thank you.
The cloth is 6 oz and the resin is West brand with 207 clear hardener. On a model I would think that a simple coat of resin would suffice to hold things together.
OrcaBoats thank you.
How long do you wait between coats? I am going to try my luck at a making wooden bath tub this year from maple bubinga and purpe heart. What type and brand cloth and resin wood you recomend? You make it look easy I am going to have to make a few smaller project first for the learning curve. LOL Beautiful job by
I use West resins. If you are looking for a clear coat, then any fiberglass heavier than a standard 6 oz weave will not go clear so if you feel you need more strength than that would give, then add another layer of glass. Typically at room temperature and with the West 207 hardener that is used for clear coating, I can re-coat within 3-4 hours. Less if hotter than 70 degrees F.
Too Good.
Great video, very informative! May I ask for some advice, I'm currently building an R/C ship and was wondering what oz fiberglass you recommend. It is a 10 foot long model of RMS Titanic with a 173 pound displacement weight. The wood hull is made of 1/8" basswood plank on a 1/2" plywood frame.
If you type "RMS Titanic (1:87 Scale) - 10ft R/C Model Build Log" into Google you'll find the model I'm working on.
I don't imagine there would be that much stress on the hull (hitting rocks, weight inside) so a light cloth if desired would suffice. May 2 oz or so. Would be easy to apply and not require that much resin. Might even get away with no cloth at all and just coat with epoxy.
Great, thank you for your feedback!
Como faço para adquiri as formas dessa canoa?
I would waterproof the wall and floor with elastomeric coating. Then nail on cedar to walls and floor, then fiberglass over wood walls and floor sealing edges. What am i missing?
Many thanks for the information and the music
do you put multiple layers of fabric or just the resin?
No. Just one layer inside and one out. Unless the customer requests extra layers, but this will add more weight and under regular use, is not warranted.
I know with sailboat layup of fiberglass most builders pre-treat the bare wood with epoxy before laying the glass because the bare wood will pull so much of the epoxy out of the cloth. Do you ever run into this problem?
I know lots of builders who recommend to pre-coat, but I have never had a problem with the process. I add more resin than required, get it on the boat as quickly as possible and then let it soak in. Once it begins to set up, then I will go back and remove excess. I do pre-coat the inside of kayak decks as I do not spend that much time fairing the inside as 90% of it will never be seen, so epoxy is used to fill gaps and smooth areas out.
is there a benefit to using different fiberglass or is it possible or beneficial to make another layer ?
There are other type of fiberglass that are treated with different chemicals to make them stronger and stiffer referred to as "S" glass. A little harder to wet out clear, but work just fine. If you want it much stronger, then yes another layer will really strengthen it up but also make it much heavier what with the need for a lot more resin.
thanks a lot for this information :D
How do you connect the fiber glass with the wood? What is the name of the material?
Epoxy resin that acts as the glue.
Sorry for all those question but should I apply resin on the wood before the plexyglass? I have heared that it is necessery to stop the wood from absorving
What is the pot life of the resin you use?
Resin is West brand with 207 hardener for clear coating. Pot life on that hardener is around 20-30 minutes depending on how much is mixed up and temp of room. More info can be found on West resin web site.
my question is can I put paint like color first or after
If fiberglassing, then paint after. You will need the resin to soak into the wood for a good bond. After resin cures, sand it to a rough grit and then prime and paint.
Can i know wht fiver mat u use and brand of resin?
I used standard 6 oz fiberglass cloth and I always use West System resins.
I wish you had shown how the bow and stern were completed.
On some of my kayaks the fiberglass will lay over the ends. Where that is not possible, I run the glass past the ends, then when cured, I scrape and sand it down and then apply a bias cut strip of fiberglass over the ends. Add a couple coats of epoxy, let it cure, sand down the rough edges and add a few more coats. Some builders don't even bother with this. They just sand and epoxy coat the ends.
How much kilo of epoxy you needed? Ty
Generally a canoe or kayak will require 2 gallons of resin plus corresponding hardener.
is it safe to use this in saltwater now?
Absolutely. Epoxy resin is very waterproof. the wood is completely encased in glass and resin.
fibra di vetro 500 gr x 1mq?
6 oz. is around 170-200 grams per square meter?
Did you apply any resins first?
Then sand then apply fiberglass with resin?
I like your method
Nice work
I do not usually pre-coat the wood with resin and then sand before putting on the fiberglass and resin. I will however do that on the inside of the deck because I do not scrape the inside of the deck as much as no one will see 90% of it.
@@OrcaboatsCa i am building a small rv and using luan plywood as the outside wood any recommendations from start to finish?
I want to glass it to give it a nice wood look outside.
Thank you So much for responding and your help you rock.
@@montygrantham8631 I think you will want to make sure that all the wood is well sealed up with glass and epoxy. A bit of water in the wood and it will come apart quickly
can anyone describe the material name look like cloth.....?
Obaid Ansari fiber glass sheets...
I thought the glass was the strength, why would you put on more coats of resin, just to make it heavier?
just to smooth it out the finish?
+thomasjeffersoncry The idea is to build up enough resin thickness so that you can sand the surface smooth without cutting into the glass. More thin coats is easier to apply. Varnish is then needed to protect the resin from UV degradation.
Great thanks for the reply
I am thinking about building a 38ft Catamaran, cedar strip glass coated,
I will need a plan for al the structural and the outer dimensions what are your thoughts?
that boat will be nice and last a while but he should have laid resin on the wood and let set up for a day the did the glassing over the top the more resin you get to soak in to the wood the longer it will last and the stronger it will be.
doing it the way he is doing it makes sense if your trying to keep labor costs down
I disagree. The wood will soak up as much resin as it can whether you put on a pre-coat or not. Many do pre-coat the wood before hand, but with more experience you can do it all in one go. And if you let it set up, then you have to sand the resin to give it a "tooth" for the next coat to bond to. And a mechanical bond of glass and resin on second coat may not be as strong as a full initial coat all as one. Either way, done well, the boat will last a long time.
I would love to watch this video, but the ear bludgeoning music is hectic and obnoxious.
I suppose if the content is valuable enough to you, you could consider simply turn off the volume on your device.
Don’t worry about this guy. That music is just fine. It’s neither loud nor obnoxious.
Some folks put down a coat of epoxy on the bare wood before glassing it up (for optimum adhesion/avoidance of dry spots I'm told). Appears that you don't. Care to comment? Thanks.
Lots of questions on that. I have done hundreds of coats of resin on glass and do not find pre-coating to be necessary. If you have not glassed before, it might be useful until you have at least one experience at it to know you the process works.
I've glassed and worked with epoxies, just not over wood. Appears to be another case of more than one way to achieve a good result. Thanks for the quick reply.
LOVED WATCHING YOUR VIDEO BUT THE MUSIC WAS SO BAD i HAD TO TURN IT OFF.
You obviously know what's up. I've seen people add resin to the surface first, then add the mat on top and another layer of resin on top. What say you?
Many people do "pre-coat" the wood beforehand, but on a small surface like a kayak, you should be able to get it all done in short order. If pre-coating, then you would have to wait until it either cures and sand the surface or wait until the epoxy is cured enough so that you can lay the glass down without it sticking to the surface so you can smooth it out. This means just the right timing so that saturation coat of epoxy on glass bonds to pre-coat layer.
@@OrcaboatsCa Thank you. That makes a lot of sense.
Those Pumps are a pin ins the ass. They eventaully clog up, and give unreliable results. Measuring by hand is the best way.
I know some people hate them, but in 20 years, I have never had a batch of epoxy fail from using the pumps. I keep them clean, are always in a heated shop and change them every 2 years or so. Mind you I use them pretty much every day for something, so they never sit idle or dry out inside. If yours are clogging up, try wrapping the tops in a cloth soaked in solvent and then put a small zip lock bag over top overnight. In the morning you can wipe them clean as new.
@@OrcaboatsCa Ah yes, constant use would help a lot.
Downvote for the rancid music
Sorry. Will never be able to satisfy everyone's taste in music. There is always the mute option.
focus is terrible....
Sorry if the content was not helpful