Knife Sharpening - Mora Knife - Grinding Scandi to Convex
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- čas přidán 9. 05. 2024
- Knife used
Morakniv Companion
Steel type
Carbon Steel
(I've read it is UHB-20C carbon steel, but not 100% sure. Let me know in the comments if you know the correct steel type)
Stones used
Shapton Pro 120 grit
Gritomatic Sic 240 grit
Gritomatic Sic 1000 grit
Gritomatic Sic 2500 grit
Shapton Pro 2000 grit
Shapton Pr0 5000 grit
Leather strop with white and green compound
This is cool. It's the first time I've seen someone turn a scandi into a full convex.
CZcams needs more videos like this. This is content.
Thank you for that 👊
That guy will be stoked, thanks for showing the process. 👍
I thought about showing more of it, but it is so boring just going back n forth on the stones. The idea of how to do it, is there I hope
@@Jef yes it is, it shows what can be done and gives confidence to the viewer. Did for me anyway. Thanks
I turned my Mora into convex about a month ago, and found a very dramatic increase in edge retention. With the factory grind I had problems with the edge bending, when carving harder wood. I had to completely resharpen it after half an hour of carving, because the apex was destroyed. With the new convex grind it was still shaving after half an hour of carving the exact same piece of wood, so I'm very happy with the result.
Awesome! I haven't used many Mora knives, so I don't know how their steel is, but most scandi grinds, can have that issue. Not sure if it is the steel type, heat treat, or just the grind itself. I've never liked scandi myself, and tend to 'scandi-vex' them. This one came that way, although the sharpness was lacking. The thinner behind the edge you make a convex, the better it will slice. Thin behind the edge, everytime you sharpen, and you should notice more improvements
That's because it wasn't a full Scandi grind. it was a Scandi grind with a micro bevel AKA a sabre grind. The best this you can do to your Mora in my opinion is to put a full Scandi grind on it, removing that micro bevel. A convex edge is nowhere near as good as a full Scandi grind in my opinion.
Really interesting work Jef. Thanks for posting it!
Thanks for checkn it out
Nicely done. Enjoyed the video. You da man!
👊
That’s a lot of work, Great Job!!
Thanks for checking it out 👊
Cool idea, and cool implementation
Thanks! 👍
Nice work man, that came out nicely!
Thanks bro. 👊
You are a good bloke. That is a lot of labor. Ive done a few (and even wore out a big diamond plate). Yours came out very nicely
Wow! I couldn’t imagine doing this on diamond. They just never cut well for things like this, when i tried em. V bevels on the other hand, they are monsters. Appreciate you watching. This didn’t quite turn out as thin as I’d like, but it’ll do the work it’s gonna be intended for 👌
If the owner takes my advice and works the convex off and on, it’ll thin out with time
Wow! I like, thanks for sharing.
Appreciate you checking it out
Very good idea
I saw guys what are making Scandi to Scandiwex...
Insane work bro.
Thanks 🙏
You do amazing work Jeff! I'm going to be doing a skandi soon, the full convex you did I can imagine will cut like a beast
Scandi can convex easily. So if you are going for the true flat grind, I would recommend single strokes. Back and forth motions tend to rock. Doing single strokes seems to keep the flatness in tact. At least, in my experience :)
@@Jef thank you brother I appreciate the advice IL definitely do that
Great vid, I was thinking of putting a scandi on one of my cheap kitchen knives, but maybe I'll try & convex it instead. Although I don't have a belt sander either & it does seem like it'd take a ton of grinding to bring that hip down where it needs to be for one. Great video as always, thanks for the inspiration!
I spent about two hours on the 120 and 240 stones. It’s a workout for sure. If you are doing a flat grind with a ‘v’ bevel, it’s not as bad. I’ve got a few older videos showing the full process on some ganzo knives.
Nice job brother!
Thanks :D
Great job. I bet it cuts great now
Thank you 🙏
Damn, this is 400-level stuff. I've been delving into these sharpening funsies for the better part of a year and convexing is just something I feel is beyond me right now. The knife looks great. Gorgeous polish. Have to think stropping the whole blade with a coarser compound would be one way to take it to the next level. Bought a camping knife with a seriously sub-par edge grind and after cleaning it up and then stropping it's kind of pretty, sort of three-quarters of the way to a mirror polish. Seems like sometimes it's important to preserve your sanity by acknowledging that it's going to take multiple sessions to get where you want to go.
Convexing is one of the easiest grinds to sharpen. You just hold the knife without gripping too tight, and scrub back and forth, across the stone. The natural rotation of your wrist, will convex it! If you are serious about it, and would like to see greater detail, search my channel for 'convex'. I have a few pretty in depth videos showing the process. Virtuvice is also a favorite channel I recommend. All he sharpens is convex.
Funny you mention multiple sessions, for a sharpening job. I usually do 3-4 on convex knives, just because that initial thinning, is so labor intensive. This one was a quick and dirty, for one of my girl's co workers. It's not where I would like to see, but for the work it does, it will be plenty.
Mora uses C100 on their carbon steel knives, which is almost the same as 1095, but a little different.
thanks for the info!
Very helpful
🙏 thanks
Thanks for video
Thanks for taking the time to watch and comment!
Looks good mate. It got nice and sharp can always thin a little everytime he sharpens it
Exactly what I am going to recommend to the owner. Get a stone, and work the fat area, occasionally, till it gets thin enough, for his satisfaction :)
@@Jef yes sir. Thinning a little when sharpening is often a great practice any ways
Nice good job..
Thanks!
I hope the owner appreciates your efforts. If I had to do that very often, I think I’d invest in a worksharp to do the initial grinding. Good job.
I got no where to put a grinder but i have thought about it. 😁👊
thats wild
🙌 still a great job
👊
Well, I took the plunge and now I'm looking at a very rare half-convex, half-scandi Mora 511. Put it on a Norton 120 and by the time I was mostly done with a crude convex on one side I decided the other side could wait a few days. It wasn't that bad, though, really. It was interesting because the goal and process are a lot different from most of the sharpening people do. Thing is, without quite meaning to I picked up a couple fixed-blades with convex grinds, so I need a practice knife to make my mistakes on just with regular maintenance and there aren't many convex beaters out there.
Yea you have to make your own. Flat ground knives are good candidates. If you dont mind spending 20-30$ grab a ganzo or two.
@@Jef Already got one Ganzo. In D2. Maybe not a good candidate for this project. 😱
But seriously folks, I cleaned up the Mora a bit with some sandpaper and I can't get over how cool it already looks. And slicey! That zero grind just glides through magazine paper. I think I'm becoming a believer here. I'd encourage anyone curious about convexing to grab a ten-buck Mora carbon 511 and try it for yourself.
I love mora knives and all the cheaper scandi types (Condor/Cold Steel etc) but I dont know if its just how I use them but 0 bevel scandi for me just rolls and chips (probably the steel they use more so than the bevel) but I have just gone to straight second bevel 20 or 25 degrees and I know scandi purists hate it and I am sure there are reasons not to do it but I prefer it and I seem to get twice the edge durability that way than the standard 0 degree.
One of these days I ll convex a Mora or something because it does look pretty cool.
I've never actually used a scandi for wood craft/bushcraft type jobs. I hear it is decent in those applications. Although, I''ve also heard others report the same issues you have. Convex is nice for all around use. If you keep it nice and thin, it is probably the best all around edge type you can have. I'm sure many would disagree with me, but I'd take the Pepsi challenge on that, any day.
did you change the angle to sharpen the whole convex edge or more like a scandivex
Like a scandivex yes. I did raise the angle a touch on the apex, as i went.
Its probably just as good or better than I would do. A tip for the future. When you're adding a convex after you do the shaping make sure you get a very friable, soft stone to round over those peaks you have. Then go back to a harder stone to see if you've removed them.
At least that is what I like to do. It seems to work well, that is, if I have enough patience.
I created it on a pretty friable stone. Or so I thought. The Shapton 120 sheds, as does the 240 gritomatic. I seem to get those wonky lines no matter what I use.
@@Jef I like using something like the cerax 320. Its probably the only actual use I can find for that stone. Then when I go higher I will continue using soft stones like a king 1.2k, or my king hyper 1k soft. And check it against something harder like my shapton 1k for ridges.
Even then I rarely get it perfect. Another big thing that helps is a lot of stropping with compound. That can help cover up those ridges too.
It works better to use heavy sandpaper on a board and only do pull strokes . It can be a bear but it thins the bevel better and makes a natural mild convex . Once ya get to the height ya want then strop it heavily with compound. Either way kinda sucks BUT doing it by hand for me works better than a belt .
Ya have to have a good system to remove it with a belt cause usually it over rounds the bevel. That's what's happening with the back and forth method, it works against ya on those narrow scandi blades . The bevel just get fatter as ya work it sucks.
I'd stop to ...free sharpening at this level AINT WORTH IT LOL .
Unless it's my own knife than I'll bloody my fingers raw.
Try the sandpaper method, without soft backing. I think you will find, as i did, that sand paper itself, has enough “give”, to make the soft backing, superfluous. You can also dial in the amount of convex, easier. As you say, both options, are labour intensive. If this were something i did often, i would invest in a powered belt grinder, along with some sort of way, to wet grind.
How long did it take you from the beginning to the end?
I spent approx two and half hours. Give or take. There was a break in there where i had to sit down cause my back was killing me, leaning over the sink.
@@Jef The sacrifice we do for our passion... :) My wife can't understand why sometimes I spend hours and hours sharpening. :)
Hello. How the cut and sharpness retention changed after sharpening .
It isn’t my knife so i do not know how the edge retention is. As for sharpness, when i received it, the edge was pretty poor. It would cut, but not well. I showed a few cut tests on paper, where you can hear it is fairly clean
Hey jef how u like that gunny juice?
Yea ive been playing with it on blasa wood. Just had 2 new dlt strops delivered and applied it this weekend. So far, it’s tits 👌
@@Jef oh ya!!!!!!!!! try the knife grinders method of deburr. I'm telling u it works! Hair whittling every time! And that gunny juice man it makes your knives shine shine shine! Best out there
Why would someone want to convex a Scandi? The Scandi grind is superior by far in my opinion and so much easier to sharpen and keep sharp...
Different cutting tasks. Scandi is excellent for feather sticks. Thats about it. A convex is superior in every other way.
@@Jef I guess, they're a pain in the ask to sharpen in the field. I fillet fish and other meats with my scandi grind with ease LOL. I guess to each his own though 😉
@@jamieofalltrades536 Right on. I am sure with time, anyone can use any knife, in a way that they require. However, a novice, using a scandi grind, I doubt could achieve that. Just check any video from virtuovice discussing scandi vs convex. He makes many solid arguments for each, and shows which task they are best at. Personally, I can sharpen both, so it is superfulous to me. As long as it is sharp, that is all I require :)
@@Jef thanks for the video recommendation, I'll definitely check that out. I have heard that some people who are inexperienced will round over the scandi easily because they don't keep the edge maintenanced properly. From what I gather that's why Maura puts the micro bevel on their scandy.
@@Jef I respect your opinions too and you gained a sub. I like your attitude and your willingness to share and civilly debate 👍