EGR bypass guide - A quick fitting video for M47R diesel Rover 75, MG ZT or Freelander owners
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- čas přidán 16. 09. 2020
- #egr #rover75 #mgzt #freelander #bmw
EGR bypass guide - A quick fitting video for M47R diesel Rover 75, MG ZT or Freelander owners. Freelander owners will follow 99% of the same instructions, except for the engine cover as there are two variations on td4's year depending.
#rover75 #mgzt #robsonroverrepair
EGR (Exhaust gas recirculation) valves have a bad habit of leaving nasty oil, carbon, moisture and biodiesel deposits in your inlet system over time and if they fail to work correctly.
This is a handy real time guide showing you how to quickly fit it, what to avoid, and also how not to do it. As well as explain the basics of what an egr value does along with the reasons the fail.
You can find the egr bypass's used in this video here, which also can be used to fit an mechanical boost gauge from by changing the piping slightly.
www.egr-delete.co.uk/product/b...
www.egr-delete.co.uk/product/l...
Please note I was not sponsored by this product, however I've used it on several of my 75s, ZT's and my old freelander td4 and highly recommend them over all other brands.
#rover #mg #mgrover #robsonroverrepair
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I take no responsibility for any parts purchased from links in descriptions, all videos are to serve as examples of what to do, you may have extra stages or processes to go through.
You must ensure your car is safe and secure. Any work completed follow videos online is at your own risk and your own responsibility.
Please, if you don't feel up to the job then please don't do it. You will be more respected for admitting your limits than making a mistake and costing yourself time and money.
I am a blog, not a business, self taught and based on my own experiences and my own mistakes. - Auta a dopravní prostředky
Mine was clogged up a lot more and if felt! When accelerating from zero, the car would tend to give a power-drop for a fraction of a second before setting off. Being a lath/mill worker, i just made an EGR-bypass myself. Along with adjusting the air intake manifold, not only did it give lots more power from low revs, but instantly I got to do about 100kms more from a full tank.
Great video, really good explanation. I have a 2004 facelift and the previous owner fitted the bypass and had it remapped and coded out at the same time. I think mine has a Jules intercooler pipe too. Now I understand the benefits. I've had the car through 2 MOTs and no issues with the emissions. The car runs like a Swiss watch too so I agree, definitely a recommended modification 👍
That's what it's all about and I'm glad to know me talking rubbish helps others out!
When removing the four bolts remove bottom two first, save them being tight to remove.
Really great video thanks. Might I humbly comment that whenever working on my R75 I always lay a crumpled rag under the bit I am working on in case I drop a nut/socket - I sometimes do - as I can retrieve it simply. I have an undertray so dropping anything doesn't mean I can simply find it on the ground - it's a major operation to run it on my ramps, take off the tray and hope I can find the usually missing part.
Not a bad shout, fortunately it had to come off anyways later that day. I once drove up and down a cobble stone lane to shake a spanner loose in a old Sherpa van that had fallen into engine bay and no one could get at it without dropping the engine! We got the bastard mind you, poor van was shaking harder than a Parkinsons suffer.
I was thinking about doing this or cleaning the existing EGR. Not sure. Oh my intercooler pipe always seems to be wet. What could be the issue?
Because of where it is, especially if you don't have a undertray fitted, the intercooler pipe attracts mud, dirt and moisture. With oil seaping out through it naturally through time it has a habit of causing it to feel "wet" because of this, even when it's warm day or hasn't been raining in ages. Basically the water sits on the oil on the pipe and never disapates. Easiest thing is to swap the pipe to a new one, especially as most are nearly 20 years old now. For me on my 75 and egr bypass is something I always fit, but I try to do it at the block. However cleaning yours and refitting is just as good. I like to fit and forget as I keep mine for a long time.
How did you solve the Throttle Problem exactly, one thing,it wasn't really cold more moderate weather in the morning 10:00 I was on the way Home and suddenly it happened,the Rev-counter started to go Up and to slow down I had to use the Gears and Brake in between and Stop engine Off.
Then wait 20 mins and carry on.
If this is v6 then I stripped the throttle, cleaning it all down and then covering it in lithium grease. Not wd40 as people make the mistake in using. Solves the runaway v6 throttle and stop icing / contamination
Useful. I see you have the Webasto heater fitted, can you tell me what kind of controller unit it uses? I have the same car, same Webasto, no controller that I can find! Previous owner claims no knowledge.
Do you mean the controller / timer in the car? I don't have one myself.
@@RobsonRoverRepair Ok, does the Webasto work? Some say it's temperature dependant and automatic. Mine certainly isn't!
My flexi has broke on my Auto. I have a manual parts car, I'm torn between blank and remove the entire EGR system, or remove the cooler and replace with the straight piece from my donor (which has no EGR cooler) and leave/blank it. Any input? I'm tempted personally to remove the whole system from the exhaust manifold and blank it there as I've got to have the cam cover off soon
That's what I'd do, if your junking the whole lot do it all. If it's the egr flexi pipe and you need one quickly the oem code is WAP101270
Very good video-as a 75 owner,would it not be just as simple to clean the EGR rather than replace it? (I am a great believer in keeping things as standard as possible)
It's two sides of the same coin really.
However if you clean the inlet and fit a bypass then you can forget about the gunk building up again in the same fashion, especially if you down the line clean or replace your intercooler / intercooler pipes etc.
With the original egr fitted, no matter how many oil changes or diesel you use, it's only going to return, and if not worse / sooner with increasing biodiesel ratio on petrol station forecourts causing that stagnant muck of oil, moisturiser water vapour, unhurt diesel, soot and other contaminated materials entering back into the system.
With the m47r being only euro 3 compliant there's also a lot more wiggle room on emissions anyways, and they don't have the ever dreaded dpf (well one does but that's for another video). Unless they start brining in NOX tests for anything pre 2007, then we are all fine.
Personally with the rate the cars are dissappearing and getting scrapped I can't see it. When was the last time you say a 1999 diesel Mondeo? Vectra? Etc.
@@RobsonRoverRepair Thanks for taking the time and trouble for replying, and having had a look at other Yubetubers videos of the EGR it seems that you are correct in your opinion that it is an all round improvement to remove it-so that's what I'm going to do.I am currently on my 3rd Rover 75 diesel and as they get older I am having to learn to do more of the maintenance myself so I really appreciate the advice and information that you put out-keep up the good work!
Just clean the valve and block off the vacuum hose - Job done not exactly rocket science.
Hello there question would cleaning sollve the Problem with the Throttle and Stop the motor from suddenly while driving that the Speedo engine reves go out of Control.
Or Stop Throttle sticking open
It this a v6?
1999/Model, Rover 75/ Petrol/ V6 with 177 hp/ ive got another Throttle Secondhand from estate model.
Yeah, it's most common in the cold, the throttle freezes, and when your driving the revs climb on their on.
You will find changing the throttle doesn't help for long, it's a common and dangerous problem that rover never did a recall for.
The most common issue is moisture and dirt, then people use wd40 to clean it.
DO NOT USE WD40! It will leave a layer of film that allows the dirt and moisture to return.
You need clean it with down with CARBURETOR CLEANER, then afterwards coat the area with a LITHIUM based spray to protect it.
Basically you are having the same as older cars with froze carbs. It comes from the design, any moisture around the throttle of the v6 in very cold air flow into engine causes it.
I've experienced it many times before I solved it.
Question guys how do you check is your engine cooling fan working iv a 04 zt diesel 2 speed
Toaf is the easiest way without branching relays etc
Switch on the demist function, fan should come on at low speed. To check the high speed, disconnect the temperature sender. Should come on at high speed after about 30 seconds.
Do you have a link to the part you ordered please?
Good quality ones always available from
www.egr-delete.co.uk/product/bmw-boost-gauge-kit/
Always use BP Ultimate expensive but no crap in it.
Unfortunately that's not how diesel works not on the uk.
All UK diesel sold on forecourts still must comply with the minimum BS EN 590 which has a manditory 7% biodiesel content in it, so it still has the same crap as every other diesel across the UK & Ireland.
The only difference you see with BP ultimate diesel is a higher cetene rating allowing it to burn better quicker and a reduced shelf life to ensure it maintains that cetene rating on sale.
This is why it's perceived as a cleaner fuel, when in fact its actually denser when under compression, again where cetene rating comes in.
Now the argument for the anti sooting chemicals in it is a separate dynamic that can be answered in this way.
Why haven't all UK haulage companies moved over to premium diesel that gives them 2 or 3% more mpg, less soot and vehicle engine clogging up? Especially on vehicles worth £100,000's as they would save on repair bills wouldn't they, and 2 or 3% mpg extra over a million miles a lorry is going to add up to save them money.
Its because there is so very little movement within BS EN 590 specifically now especially since the new 5, 7 and 10% biodiesel adjustment staging, and with that biodiesel content it undoes almost all benefits of premium diesel bar an increase in cetene rating.
Additionally the other flip side is the issue of bunkered fuel sales here in NI & ROI also.
Unbranded tanks on forecourts are the warning signs, fuel can be several weeks or months old, especially diesel as it has quite a good base standard on minimum cetene rating, however that doesn't take into account of hydroscopic sweat, and that is where the majority of diesel problems come, sub standard diesel, and yes, premium fuels are also bunkered before blending to minimum specifications of bs en 590.
Does this egr blank mod put an engine MIL light on the dash?
Thanks
As discussed in the video, if your 75 or zt has the sensor after the egr then it will trigger the light. This needs coding out and any competent ecu agent can do this for a few quid. If you do not have the sensor then it will not. Freelander 1 td4 from 01 to 06 do not give the fault light ever.
The inline intercooler hose sensor is usually found on mk2s but if a very late mk1 that had one also.
@RobsonRoverRepair - Thank you
I wonder with bmw having the new 1 series front wheel drive could that gear box be put on a 75
The m47r is a fantastic engine, turbo upgrade would be a far better solution, miles of a properly mapped freelander td4 turbo or a 320d e46 unit would be far better. Plenty of 180 bhp examples of that now.
@@RobsonRoverRepair thats interesting u say that i know the m47 is 1 of the best bmw brought out the n series that came after has killed many a 5 series i wasnt sure would the turbo of the 3 series fit the zt
Is there a clutch master cylinder upgrade for the zt
@@noelcahill6707 yes, the new units from the links of www.dmgrs.co.uk master reinforced with metal.
However id change the slave also as usually when you change a master, it causes the slave (usually older slave) fail because of the increase in pressure again.
I've learned that one the hard way a few times.
www.dmgrs.co.uk/collections/clutch-transmission-parts/products/rover-75-mg-zt-metal-master-cylinder-kit-all-variants-replaces-stc100146-stc105480
@@RobsonRoverRepair i know the diesels were heavy on clutchs but the master was the weak point im trying to modernise my zt once shes fixed up with touch screen and im trying to see is there front and rear light upgrades id be very interested in a turbo upgrade my engine has 133k on the clock
Any better on fule or just the same
Mine are pretty good mpg wise plus I've driven professionally for 15 years so I couldn't tell you. However a clean egr and intake means car needs driven not as hard so I'd say if yours was bad you would see a slight improvement
Hi i have a problem with mine MG ZT couse it s smoking on black, do u have any ideal why? 2.0 diesel
Hello there, have you potentially found out why? My ZT has recently started blowing big black clouds …
@@jeremys7000 try to clean EGR first, it s so easy to remove, i haven't tried any other options because it might be fault of bad map that last owner did because when the engine is warm it stops smoking
@@kamilnitecki520 thank you Kamil, I successfully cleaned the EGR and god was it dirty! Unfortunately it didn’t resolve the problem … the car is still blowing big clouds and the engine feels like is not running smoothly :(
@@jeremys7000 u can also try to clean injectors chemicly
Black smoke is usually oil or unburnt diesel, so start front to back, look at air intake, air filter being blocked, pcv filter being blocked, then bad maf, then check injectors arnt leaking or failing, then it's turbo boost pipes, turbo, intercooler and o rings, and the pipe from airbox to the turbo also, then your down egr and exhaust side of things, by that stage also doing diesel fuel filter (incase contamination etc), after that your gonna need to be doing things like checking injector flow rates, maf effectiveness etc. My money is on maf or boost pipes.
Hi
Just been watching do this having brought a rover 75 identical to you yours.
Mine is a 2002 2.0 cdt manual.
It is very sluggish when accelerating. Would this by pass valve sort out the problem??
Thanks paul
Paul could be a lot of things, boost leak in pipes, blocked cat, pipes that callopse under boost, bad maf, jammed turbo actuator etc.
Obviously if the inlet manifold is badly blocked it won't help, you would be better looking all over. If there's a lot of black smoke on boost its like a boost pipe, if the car is dead to 2000rpm then only powerful to 4000rpm its a maf, and if it dies around 2600rpm when accelerating hard it's likely under bonnet and / or intank pump.
Or it could be a combination of them all. I'd suggest finding a local rover expert to check it out.
@@RobsonRoverRepair
Thank you for replying so quickly I look forward to more videos.
Kind regards
Paul
Hi mate im from cork iv a mg zt a 04 iv had huge problems finding sum1 that knows rovers my zt had water go in to the passenger side floor she was parked up for a while but the dash clocks now do not work any help id be very gratefull
Sounds like Cambus failure but I've saw it with battery terminal connections. Don't panic yet mate.
Best thing and easiest to do, give terminals and battery terminals a clean with emery paper, leave them both disconnected for about an hour. Thats the hard reset method, usually resets everything.
What you may find however is Cambus issues, combination of a wet ecu and wet carpet. Ironically it's when it freezes is the most damage done.
Imo clean terminals, battery reset, and then take it a short spin, should solve the problems, and also make sure the battery is fully charged before you try and start her after the disconnect to prevent any issues from repeating.
They need a good strong battery about 14.4 volts to start properly, anything lower and start getting errors and then the flashing head lights below 12v when it won't even start.
Let me know how you go mate will try and help you.
@@RobsonRoverRepair thank you very much shes driving perfect if the reset does not work what will i need to do then
@@noelcahill6707 I assume things like indicator lights, full beam, fog light etc don't show up on dash etc also. Tbh I'd be very very surprised if this reset and cleaned terminals doesn't sort it.
@@RobsonRoverRepair no mate nothing shows up temp fuel or speed i got new dash cluster and had it put in and still nothing but the car drives perfect i do have 1 other problem with my high speed fan but my aircon is not working so i think a regas should sort the fan but the clocks have my head done in
Sounds about right. My left hand drive did same. Battery was bad, cleaned terminals and was grand. But I also cleaned the plenum at same time as was bit grimey.
Why not just put a ball bearing in the vacuum hose to stop the valve opening
Yep I've seen that done along with a screw in the pipe also.
Personally I think that kinda approach isn't ideal, it's a incomplete solution, and I chased a smoke issue on an 03 75 for ages, sure enough turned out to be micro split in the egr rubber pipe that was micro fracturing with a small bolt jammed in it.
Combination of age of pipe and being stretched unnecessarily.
Way I look at any job, if I bought a car and found bodges on it (and I include the inline Renault 5 thermostat as a bodge, I've seen that pipe burst more and more now) when there are simple options to do it right then it would concern me what else has maybe been bodged.
Ontop of that, if I sold a car then I like to be able to say its done to my standard.
I've bought some 75s and zt's that where bodged when you got into it.
It's just how people feel they want to maintain their car, to what standard and cost.
For example I don't buy expensive oil but I know people that spend £100 on an oil change, yet and running around on bald tyres between mot.
Not everyone's circumstances are the same, but I think have the option to do it as a better standard than a dodgy fix that may let go in future and leave you stranded then for me, that's the option each time.
Regret EGR Delete don't seem to list the bypass now. Only ones are from Poland or . . . China.
This is one I also use www.egr-delete.co.uk/product/bmw-boost-gauge-kit/
@@RobsonRoverRepair Most grateful foryour swift response: ordered one today. Bit dearer than the Polish, but then I haven't got the probability of the lunatic additional Brexit customs fee.
Yes and it's the same seller I used in my video.
Just tried the reset no luck so far
Did you give it a good hour? Clean terminals etc.
My next thought then is Cambus issues, but I'd try looking into the ecu to check it's not a swimming pool.
Also, do you have a fuel burning heater? Disconnect that. If you have a unit that fails, it sends the canbus into panic mode.
Cleaned them left it off over an hour still nothing only thing i can do is a systems check where everything lights up and the clocks move
That will work even if you have power going to them.
Like I say, check the fuel burning heater of you have one disconnect it under bonnet via the plug, and then check again.
@@RobsonRoverRepair
what you mean by fuel burning heater my car is 04 the face lift model
@@noelcahill6707 it's a pre heater for the diesel engines. Helps in colder temperatures but if it fails it causes canbus errors. Look at the image below, has two plugs. Unplug them. As effects the canbus system that sends signals through out the car.
gallery.xpowerforums.com/data/586/medium/2006_09090002.JPG