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Men's Dress Shirt Styles - How To Choose the Perfect Collar, Placket, Cuff & Fit
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- čas přidán 14. 08. 2024
- Learn more in our written Dress Shirt Style Guide here:
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#notsponsored #shirtsyles #mensdressshirts
You can check out the accessories I'm wearing here:
Tie: gentl.mn/2jf5SpP
Pocket square: gentl.mn/2k6Ml9B
00:00 Introduction
With the recent popularity of made to measure shirts and custom shirts online and offline, you get lots of options. Now that can be a blessing or a curse, depending on what you need and what you don't.
Fit
00:45 Classic Fit
The primary goal of the classic fit is comfort so you'll have more space in the chest, you'll have wider sleeves. Overall, it's a roomier cut with excess fabric. The idea is that it gives you mobility.
01:14 Slim Fit
Basically, everything on the shirt is slimmed down. The torso is slimmed down sometimes with the use of darts in the back. The chest is smaller, the shoulder width is smaller, and oftentimes, also the sleeves are much slimmer.
01:51 Modern Fit / Contemporary Fit
This is somewhere between the classic fit and the slim fit. It usually features a slightly tapered silhouette, sometimes has darts, sometimes not. It is an attractive look but it doesn't compromise comfort and mobility.
02:15 Super Skinny Fit
This just means that everything is tight. The problem is that it's so tight that you easily get wrinkles all over the place.
02:36Placket
Traditional front placket which is an additional piece of fabric strip that is sewn onto the top. It creates great symmetry, it's therefore very popular for a classic shirt.
03:03 French placket. Unlike the American placket, it's simply a flat, smooth edge that's folded over and sewn.
3/4 placket which means the placket doesn't go all the way down and it's more like a polo shirt, just very deep.
03:42 Fly front placket. It's called that way because the buttons are hidden with an additional piece of fabric and personally, I don't like it at all.
04:14 Collar
04:48 Spread Collar. It has a certain spread and it's used for dress shirts and casual shirts alike. It works with or without a tie and it's quite versatile.
05:15 Button-down collar. It's particularly popular for the oxford cloth button-down collar shirt.
05:45 Under button-down collars. There's simply a button placed underneath the collar so it's invisible.
06:03 Classic collar. Not too spread, tips are not too long but not too short.
06:23 Smaller collars have become very popular but most of the time, they're not very flattering especially if you wear a tie or a bow tie, it simply looks like a child collar.
06:47 Detachable wing collar. For evening wear such as white tie tailcoat and tuxedo, men would traditionally wear this one.
07:41 Mao collar. A short, stand-up collar. It's very easy to tailor and it's sometimes worn in combination with the Nehru jacket.
08:07 Club collar. It has rounded ends so you're not going to have a collar tip but they're just rounded.
08:34 Medium spread collar. It's basically not classic but not too spread. It's kind of in-between.
09:16 Extreme cutaway collar. It's just cut away so far, you cannot really wear neckwear that looks flattering.
09:45 Shirt Cuff
09:47 -French cuffs or double cuffs.
10:05 -James Bond cuff
10:16 - straight-cut cuffs, or slightly angled ones, or rounded ones
10:34 Hem
Most traditional shirts have a hem that is longer in the front and at the back and cut up in the middle so you don't have excess bunching of fabric.
10:59 Yoke
Traditionally, you can find a so-called split yoke in the back which originally was there to compensate for sloping shoulders.
11:21 Pleats
In terms of pleats, traditional shirts oftentimes feature a center pleat down the middle. It's like a box pleat that gives you more room.
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Raphael, I know you own your own business, and are obviously extremely busy. But I would love to see more videos like this, breaking down these sorts of things for all the general suiting items. Your knowledge of the history and function is always fascinating.
Keen to see more.
Regards,
well said!
I'm very slim, so slim fit shirts look great on me, I've seen some people wearing slim fit without the right build and it just looks comically tight on them.
I agree. His body type is not for slim fit
I bought a black suit for my grandfather's funeral a while back. And I probably should have just gotten a dark navy or dark grey suit, but that's the only one I have for now. This has been really useful to help me step up my dress clothes game until I buy a navy suit.
Going to see what kinds of patterns and things I should look for in your other videos.
Thanks!
If you only own or wear a few suits, get a few different color dress shirts to mix up your looks. 😉. You dont have to just wear white or blue. Grey, stripes, tan, green, etc can still be sharp.
The attachable collar for the tuxedo looks so much better
I love these videos. More often than not, I find I've been doing it right, just instinctually...but it's good to have a real expert open up more ideas and braven us fashion aspiring guys to try new things without taking the risk of looking stupid...lol
Excellent video. I never thought I'd become someone who would take actual interest in all the details that go into shirts or even clothing in general. But what I've learned from your videos and articles have served me very well. I suppose since I never used to pay *any* attention to such details, it really amazes me when I learn about all these things that can go into a shirt. Thanks for being such a quality resource.
I love this channels old style music and presentation. Great job with this Raphael.
One of your best videos!
Very complete and detailed account of shirts for those of us that need help making the right choices. :)
Great video thank you!
Real serious advice on traditional and classic gentlemen fashion. Rather than others who just promote their sponsors with no content.
I actually like my shirt to hang over the side a bit, so classic fit for me all the way!
How you only have 84,000 subs is beyond me... So detailed, wow!
I'm sure you're glad of the sub count now, but wow, he had that many subs only 4 years ago?
Would love to know the details on the tie @9:01 ? It’s outstanding.
Go to their webstie and search Shantung silk necktie
My favorite collars styles are the: semi-spread, button-down collar, pinhole collar (club, pointed, anything), tab, and Nehru (basically a Mao / Mandarin collar that's taller).
05:15 left me a little confused: I've been taught that wearing a tie on a button-down collar shirt was a no-go? Just on button-downs, not the more discreet under-botton-down collars. Since then, I always considered button-down shirts to be rather leisure-style, although you find them worn and combined with ties all over the place.
As far as I know band collars(I've never heard Mao used for them) are an imitation of tunic collars for detachable collars. You can still sew a button on the back and attach a collar with little difficulty.
Good video, I even caught the neck tattooed Sasquatch guy you slyly slid in there wearing the collar bar!
I have two shirts with the French placket. I like them a lot because it's one less thing that will wrinkle badly.
Oh man 4k! Love the tutorial, as I'm a fan of having a good arsenal of dress shirts.
Matt, where do you usually buy your nice dress shirts from? I see you are wearing one in your picture.
Most of the shirts I have made come with convertible cuffs, so I can button them if I want to, or wear cufflinks. I personally prefer that type of cuff with semiformal as well.
A covered placket is considered an ideal for highland wear, since many feel that studs distract from the rest of the outfit, though a lot of the same people also think a PC should be worn with a wing collar. Debrett's disagrees, and as HM generally seems to wear a soft collar dress shirt with a PC I think that's just fine.
And I'm going to disagree with the wing collar with a tux unless the reason you're at the affair is to serve the food. There's a reason that the easiest place to find (attached) wing collar dress shirts is at restaurant supply stores.
Thank you and great advice👈🏾 Always informative you are👌🏾
I had no idea there were so many different collars!
i think comfort fit shirts are neat, especially when you wear a jacket and its a bit warmer, with the roomy sleeves you dont trap too much heat :)
Button downs & the "contrasting" collar(white collar, blue or grey shirt) are good. I wore contrasting collars a lot in the early 1990s. 👔. It was popular with TV news anchors, Wall St types..
I have a number of Perry Ellis shirts with a pleat atop the shoulders. For many years this was the signature feature for the brand. Are these shirts now considered passe'? It doesn't matter to me either way though, I like the design and will continue wearing them.
Very informative video, keep up the good work!
Love your channel - you are one of my favorite personalities on youtube. Love the knowledge you share too. As a men's clothing re-seller on ebay I just love hearing about fashion and clothing. Listen a lot while taking pictures!!!
super helpful, thank you!
Wish you discussed the spearpoint collar, which is a wonderful type. Most of my shirts are vintage and have that type.
4:15 for collar
Thanks
👏🏽 Awesomely put @GentlemansGazette ✊🏽
Ideally, a man will look at the size guide and determine which fit is best for him. I, for example, am extremely thin. This means that I must usually drop an entire fit style to achieve the desired look (e.g.: if I want the classic fit look, I must purchase the modern fit shirt). And I agree with you: the fly placket is hideous.
What is the song you play in your videos? My 15 month old daughter dances every time she hears it.
miahbecker 15 month old. 15. Month. Your daughter is 1 year and 3 months old god damn
Where can one find a club collared shirt? I can’t seem to find them anywhere!!
jakeharrison Yes, it is a surprising fact of life that daughters start out as babies before eventually growing into adults.
jakeharrison well, if you compare how long 1 year and 3 months take to say/type with 15 month old, I’d choose 15 month old lol
Lovely video!
very educational, loved this video, thanks !
Great video, as always
I have a really small waist so only slim and super slim works for me and I also have a lot of mobility in them.
I've been keeping an eye out for a french cuff shirt for years in stores and have never found one.
I like those "anatomy" videos
How about collar stays? Thoughts?
Brass or metal style stays are sharp 😉. They last long too. Plastic or cheap ones wear out.
He made a video about them
MOP or brass
@@DWilliam1 yes,mop for white or plain light shirt,Brass for patterned and dark ones
*Ur dressing sesne is awesome guru*
can you make one on how too match up dress shirts with jeans or what type pants & shoes would be the best combination too wear with
Hi can you please make a video about how to properly iron shirts? Thx :)
I'm skinny. Really skinny. Super slim shirts have about as much excess fabric when I wear them as the modern fit does on Mr. Schneider here. Does thet make them the right choice? It's about how they actually fit ME, right? Or should they still be avoided?
MEKKANNOID is it fits you right then go for it
Definitely, you are right.
Could you make a video or answer it from here that how to choose correct collar size for the sake of our necks (not too tight) at the same time look nice. Because when the shirt size fits but collar is too tight to feel comfortable.
This is a bit inaccurate regarding the fits. You're discussing these *only* as they pertain to your body type. But things like "super slim fit" are for people who really are skinny or lanky--of which you're neither, so obviously it's not going to fit you right. Yet on the same token, for the skinny person, it may fit them exactly right. So things like "causing wrinkles because they're constantly stretched" is just wrong, because that fit is obviously not meant for you.
My personal problem is that I have athletic build shoulders and a slim waist. So it's usually the case that a super slim fit will fit me in the waist but not chest and shoulders--or it will have enough space in the chest and shoulders but be too baggy in the waist. For off the rack shirts, Thomas Pink has the best option with the biggest "drop" in inches (six--e.g. 47 chest circumference, 41 waist) between chest and waist, but they're also $200/piece :/
Bottom Line: I've noticed that typically the ONLY real difference in fit between brands is the size of the "drop," because you can see a linear progression of measurements across types. For example, a particular brand might have:
-A "Slim" 15-inch collar with a 45" chest and 41" waist
-A "Super Slim" 16 inch collar that ALSO has a 45" chest and 41" waist
-A "Slim" that also has a 16-inch collar, but has a 47" chest and 43" waist
-A "Super Slim" 17-inch collar that ALSO has a 47" chest and 43" waist
And so on and so forth. In this example, yous see a consistent 4-inch "drop."
So, if you aren't really thin, obviously don't get a "super slim" shirt in your normal collar size. I suggest knowing the best measurements for you (I'm about 47" for chest/38" for waist) then finding a shirt that fits your "drop" or closest to it. NOTE, these AREN'T your actual chest/waist measurements. These are measurements that leave some space for you to move. To that point--
As a general rule of thumb, take your known measurements and add about 5 inches. So if you're a 42 suit and 38 for your waist, try to find 47"/43" shirts for a good fit.
You can just solve your issue by going Made to Measure instead of waisting 200 dollars on a Thomas Pink shirt that can be had on sale for 30-40 bucks (they really arent worth the money at full price). A good MTM shirt will be roughly 90-150 dollars and will fit you much better. Things like athleticism can be taken into account and you won't have to worry anymore.
same, i wear profuomo and bring them to the taillor to make them a little slimmer in the waist. but i have an extremely slim waist, in general profuomo fits well with athletic people. maybe if you can, give it a try. i have a chest circumfrence of 38 and a waist of only 29,5. but profuomo slim fit by them selves have a drop of 4,3. not sure if you can get them in the US tho as its a dutch brand.
Can be. But size must also be considered. If it's too small like kiddos used nowadays to show even if they're adequate for their body type, Sven's comments are correct.
Great!
I have a beard that is quite long. Most collars disappear, but some button down collars caused my beard too flair out making it look unkempt. Is there a collar I should be targeting ?
Hello, can you tell us your opinion about black shirts and how to combine them correctly?
Thank you!
This is very cool. I was trying to figure out what various styles were called. Do you find that the side pleats offer more mobility than the center pleat? I think I've seen shirts with the pleats in different spots (and I think they were called vents, but I could just be mistaking terms).
What are your feelings on raglan sleeves in terms of offering mobility vs appearance? Is there a sleeve style that offers the same mobility but that looks better? I've seen some that looks sort of like it has what you called a yoke on both front and back & the sleeves were attached to that but it sort of looked like a raglan sleeve except the sleeve attached to the yoke.
In terms of cuffs, what type is the most comfortable?
Is there such a thing as a medium spread underbutton collars?
Is Mao collar also called Mandarin collar?
Thank you very much for posting this video. It was very informative.
One point of correction:
Super slim fit is basically just slim fit for very skinny people. Generally (manufacturer-specific) slim fit is as baggy on me as "classic" is on normal people.
I have problem with tick neck making it so only shirts 2 - 3 sizes larger fits if I button them up all way..
pardon Gentleman's Gazette...but how about the Good fellas collard? You know, the one from Good Fellas and Casino.
3:27 ‘3/4 placket’, aka half placket
what if i have a short neck, is there any advice you could provide please?
Avoid large collars, go with shoirter ones.
What about a tab collar?
Had a shirt that has buttons for a barrel cuff and holes for cuff links. So you cut the buttons if want to go French cuff?
I have also heard of the French cut, which has a curved cut on the sides but still roomy sleeves, fits my triangular slim figure well.
I call the rounded collars Peter Pan collars myself. I wish there were more Womens dress shirts with that type of collar
Those grey and striped shirts you have with 2 button collars...are they prada? What is the name of those shirts.
Lo sugeriste en otro video en español ,por eso entre a mirarlo por favor hay alguna forma de verlo en español?
You didn't mention the spearpoint collar? Was extremely popular in the American 30s and 40s was the literal go to collar of those centuries?
Hey, Ralph or anyone, where can I find quality pullover dress shirts? Thanks for all you do.
Great video! What kind of collar do you recommend for a man with a square jaw and thick neck?
I feel like I should take notes on every video
THANK YOU
Make a video about pleated shorts
What do you think about double collar shirts? Those look horrible to me...
Balázs Sólyom
Agree! :-D
Very informative video. Is there any book that you recommend to learn more about shirts?
Any idea what is a fair price to have a shirt tailored or should I just get a custom , made to measure ....?????
What is suggested for a somewhat muscular individual whom enjoys a slim fit??🤔
I want a giant 70s collar
Tq sar
Are there collar bars which can span a spread collar shirt?
For those of us that have a large waste line and smaller neck what is the best option if I wanted to stay under 100 dollars?
custom from tailor store
I have always been told you only tie certain tie knots for certain collars. Is this true? For example you would t want a really wide collar with a really this tie knot.
Its for symetricalistic
What’s the name of the collar they wear in Goodfellas? Specifically the “What’s so funny about me?” dinner scene. They have these really long collars that go over the necktie knot. What is it called?
Its a spearpoint collar but more closely,many ilustration from vintage detachable collar
what are your thoughts on double collars?
I think the entire reason most men don't wear shirts anymore is because the slim fit has ruined the comfort of it completely.
Unlike t-shirts which are knit, shirts are woven and NEED a bit of space so you can actually comfortably live in them.
Hi
First of all O want to thank you for this amazing channel,
I am suggesting to you to translate your channel other languages, I am Arabian and my English is fair but still cant understand everything and need to watch the scene again and over again to understand the most I can, so I wish you translate it to Arabic.
I am sure if you translate your channel to Arabic language you would earn at least a million follower.
Where can I find the shirt at 3:40?
What's the shirt style name besides 3/4 placket? I can't find any brands that have that name
Custom is maybe the only way
It's funny I can watch this video multiple times, but I don't learn until its the hard way by buying the wrong shirt.
I have a very large neck (17.5") and wide shoulders but I'm only a 42" chest and I find the only thing I can wear that fits me anything like properly is skinny fit/extra slim shirts. Thing is they still have too much room through the torso and waist. I know I can get them adjusted to remove some of the excess fabric, but I dislike the lack of choice and selection I'm often left with when purchasing. Do you have any other suggestions for what I can do to get a shirt that fits AND have choice, that doesn't involve the cost of custom tailored shirts?
Daley depending on where you live, online made to measure shirts are not that expensive (I have seen some for around 80 bucks), but the only problem is that you have to nail your body measurement.
Daley u & I share the same problem & measurements! I feel ya man. I wrestled, played football and lacrosse so I have that v taper and I find that a lot of shirts that fit my chest & neck I have to take to a tailor to alter :(
Do you know where one could find a detachable collar shirt?
Marc Darcy's website. Around £12 for the washable collar and £35 (I think) for the shirt itself. Or, you can look for paper detachable collars (I don't recommand), or even alter a shirt and only buy studs.
Like your channel, but for some people different shirt "fit" is going to have a differing fit.For me a classic fit is perfect, granted it will be baggy because it will be off the rack.
You shouldn't say "super slim fit" is to avoid.. I'm a very skinny guy (do triathlon like lots of the other skinny bit athletic guys) and that's the only fit that doesn't make me look wearing my dad's shirts
which tie knot is he wearing?
Four in hand
Are you standing on a revolving platform? Either your back round is revolving or your platform and It makes me dizzy.. lol!
A French placket is preferred for real dress shirts and also doesn't "break" the pattern of the fabric (stripe or check), what an American placket can do when it is not cut separately but folded only. American plackets are considered more "casual".
And not much info about stiffness of collars... or cuffs.
Good Video Overall, but I have to disagree a lot with the part about the fit of a shirt! It depends much more on your physic than on anything else, which fit is good for you and which ones you should avoid! I actually need super slim fit dress shirts, because I'm skinny as hell! Even Slim fit is way too baggy for me and modern fit looks on me like I'm wearing a dress. It also isn't too tight for me or anything, it's actually very comfortable and I have a lot of room in it. It definitely doesn't work for anybody, actually most people will look like a sausage in a super slim fit shirt, but it works perfectly for my body type. You really can't recommend a fit for anybody it depends only on the person's body type. And I think it's awesome that nowadays there are fits for almost anyone. And a few decades ago, there probably wasn't a need for super slim fit shirts, but I think there a lot of tall and also skinny men walking around nowadays, so I think it is incredibly great that we have something like a super slim fit, because otherwise I would need custom made shirts.
Agreed: he definitely could have worded that portion of the video better.
You should learn how to properly tuck a shirt into pants... back to RMRS...
Nehru jacket is now called Modi jacket!!
the wat collar? clap or club?
club
Wall Street is from 1987 though.
White Death-Finland he said 1990 so he's right..
awesome video! great content! i just made a how to video too! hope you can tell me how my video is! :)
so called
You seem to make some false assumptions about the different shirt fits because you ignore the huge variety of body shapes. For example, I have a fit 'V' shaped torso and tend to go for large size shirts with super slim fit to get a more consistent fit all over. Even then there can be too much fabric around the waist.
I can really see your sloped shoulder here, it's quite bad, especially from the back it looks like it has collapsed or something. Not to bash you or anyting, we all have imperfections. But it illustrates the point of suiting for your body well.
Nice to see Nehru Jacket is still being called as Nehru Jacket and not Modi Jacket is western world. 😂
What my grandpa wore? Oh well, if the shoe fits....
I mean, the PURPOSE of the collar is prevent skin dirt getting on your wool clothing.