How a Dress Shirt Should Fit - Proper Styling Details for Men's Shirts
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- čas přidán 4. 07. 2024
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Dress shirts today are not just the foundation of classic men's wardrobe that protect your outer garments from your body but they're also worn on their own and because of that, fit is even more important because having a lot of excess fabric around your waist just looks unattractive.
Because we're all humans, we're different, we're asymmetrical, and one simple fit doesn't mean it fits you in the sleeve or in the chest just because it's slim enough in the waist. Unlike many other garments such as your waistcoat, your pants, your jacket, it is essential to get the shirt fit right from the get-go because there's much less room for alterations.
How exactly should a dress shirt fit?
First, let's talk about the armholes of a shirt which is a factor that is often neglected. Ideally, you want them to be as small as possible without restricting you when you move your arms.
The second thing to consider is the yoke and the chest width of your shirt. The yoke is measured in the back, it's the horizontal seam from one shoulder bone to the other. Ideally, that seam should extend just past that shoulder bone so you have enough range of movement but also, not too much excess.
Next up, let's talk about the fit of the sleeve. These days, they're often cut very slim which might look attractive when you just stand but as soon as you move up with your arm forward, you can feel a restriction or tension in your biceps area. To prevent that, you need more room in your upper sleeve despite having a smaller armhole and then ideally, the sleeve tapers further down because you don't want an excess fabric in the area around your lower arm.
Four, a well fitting dress shirt has the right length for you. In my experience, most dress shirts today are cut relatively short for me but I also have a long torso. Personally, I like shirts that are longer, that cover my bum, and that don't have fabric on the sides. That way, I don't have excess fabric inside my pants but I don't have to worry about ever getting my shirt untucked in public. If you want to wear your shirt untucked, you want a plain hem that is the same length all the way around but frankly, it's not really a dress shirt anymore if you
wear it untucked.
Five, let's talk about the chest, the waist, and the seat. Most men have a different chest measurement than their waist measurement. Let's say I am a 42 inch chest in a 36 inch waist. The six inch difference is called the six inch drop. In order to get that drop right, the shirt can either be cut from the get-go so it fits you perfectly but if you buy something off the rack, it is likely that it won't be perfect. In that case, you can utilize darts in the back of your shirt that help you achieve the desired slimness in the waist without reducing the chest width.
Next up, let's talk about the fit of the collar. A collar that is loose and shows excess space around your neck looks sloppy and like someone who just got a shirt from their bigger brother. And if it's so tight that your skin hangs over your collar, you look a bit like a pressed sausage. So how do you know your collar is too tight or too loose? I suggest you actually measure
your neck with a measuring tape.
Now that you understand your body and you know where can pay attention to those areas when you're trying on new shirts off the rack. Not all shirts are cut alike and the patterns are different and some will fit you better than others. However, in order to achieve a truly great fit, you will have to go custom because you are an asymmetrical person. Unfortunately, that can be rather expensive so for many men, a made to measure option, sometimes, online made to measure is a good middle ground between finding a shirt that fits reasonably well that is comfortable but also, affordable.
16:22 Outfit Rundown - Jak na to + styl
Raphael, this is why you're the most Stylish and knowledge man in America. Glad to briefly introduce myself and meet you at Menfluential. The fact you complimented the pocket square and shoes was awesome. You owned that event, style and knowledge-wise. Also, very approachable compared to many other Big CZcams guys. Congrats on the coming 800K Subs and 1M soon!
Thanks for your kind words, it was nice to meeting you too!
That position has already been taken by Trump.
@@richardwebb2348 Maybe the opposite lol
I wouldn’t agree mr Trump is not near as well dressing as Mr Schneider , Raphael in this case has way more knowledge and can put together much more interesting combinations, still all of this is just my opinion.
@@richardwebb2348 lol
I really learn a great deal from these vids.
I’m 52 years old and feel like I’m learning things that I should have learned many years ago.
I grew up around people who dressed in suits and nice clothing but was never educated in dressing as such.
Thanks for doing this for others.
I’m really learning from you as well as others now.
The main thing is not to have huge arm holes.( At the point where they become arm impact craters.)
realtalk 👊 armholes the most important factor in fit
@@hiphop90s98 Yes, exactly.
8:20 “like a pressed sausage”. You’re killin me!
Your oxblood oxfords are beautiful.
I spent Thanksgiving weekend binge watching your videos. Speaking of great fit, bringing Preston on board as a knowledgeable resource and delightful person to listen to has been a blessing for us all.
Great info! I bought my first-ever made-to-measure shirt last year from Proper Cloth and I'm very happy with it and their service. So much better than a department store shirt and not that much more expensive.
6:05 personal professional fabric checker
The struggle you're in today is developing the strength you need tomorrow.
-Robert Tew
🤩
Watching and learning from your tutorials has made me much more educated about the realities of proper fit clothing. Thank you for taking the time to help everyday men like me better understand and appreciate the value when investing in a quality, custom made garment. It may take me a few months to save enough money for a bespoke suit but now I think it would be worth it! Please keep sharing your lessons and help all men raise their level of classiness.
Great video as always. Would love to see a video about appropriate shirt colours for different occasions. I mean formal, meetings, colours that for consultants!!
1:12 when you owe money to the mob and the collection crew comes to town.
“We are going to make you an offer you cannot refuse”
I'm not sure why but it's nice to see someone who wears their trousers at a reasonable height (not around the hips with lots of bagging).
Goedendag, landgenoot!
Thanks Sven for making this video it was really helpful.
I really like this video, a well fitting shirt always looks great, and gets you noticed. I prefer a split yoke in the back, this makes the shirt more comfortable across the shoulders. I also agree with getting the sleeve length right, that really sets off a great shirt. I recommend going to a good shirt shop and getting properly measured by an expert, there are a lot of good 'off the rack' options once you know your proper measurements
I’ve bought too many dress shirts that all seem like they “should” fit right. Can’t wait to try these tips!
Your videos are really good keep up with the good I love your videos keep up with the good work as always
For online, I've tried Proper Cloth. They're not bad.
I'm buying vintage and donated menswear more often now. If I like a style and I'm swimming in it, I also get it hemmed. You get what you like cheaper and help small businesses and nonprofits.
How do you get "donated" menswear?
@@johnbacon4997
Salvation Army
Great info as always. Thank you.
Thanks for the info. I need to get better fitting shirts! I know you probably mentioned them in the video. But what brands or website do you typically recommend?
Amazing video. Thanks for all the free information. Is that a Terry Miura painting behind you on the wall?
I enjoyed the editing of the fire in the background while handling the 100s
Hello!!Could you please do a video on combinations like in suits: what works best and all
This is the first time I have ever seen Mr. Schneider wear a black jacket other than in the funeral video and his Black and White tie ensembles. Now that is something to strive for.
I am quite sure it is a navy blue jacket instead.
@@f_m_3682 Yep it is navy
Looks like Tom Ford is still on his own hahaha
I see black too
Will you do an updated video on your pinky rings too show us the new ones you have brought?
Great info, well presented. Thnx so much!
Amazing! Thank you so much. Can you make a video about how casual clothes should be worn?
He has many videos on that topic on his channel. He especialy does that subject during spring summer season.
Hii Raphael! I love the way you speak! Oh and i meant "Like" ! 😜
This is spot on.
Do you have a recommendation for where to get solid and Winchester club collar shirts? Or do you recommend custom?
Wonderful, cheers!
Absolutely love the videos. However, that is a lavender boutonniere. Keep inspiring everyday!
I use Proper Cloth a lot but something which still bothers me about them is that you can't independently change the armhole or upper and lower sleeve. My forearms are quite large, so the only way to get them to fit is to change the entire width which also greatly increases the armhole size, resulting in lots of bagginess around that area, all just so I can bend my arms.
If you want small armholes and still enough room in the sleeves I think Luxire would be the only choice for MTM. They can also set in the sleeves straight which is _awesome_ if you move your arms a lot; the shoulder area won't move because the default position of the sleeves isn't downward.
I'm lucky, the higher end Profuomo shirts (Sky Blue) are of decent quality and their off the rack fit is just about exactly right for my body
In every kind of situations: The classic shirt!
Congratulations on the 800k :) Grüße aus dem Schwabenland
i thought i was the only one with a big hips! glad to know there are ways to manage it.
Is that a Torino belt you are wearing? Whats your opinion of Stenstrom shirts?
Raphael, great video! Where is that shirt from?
Cheers Raphael 👍
Which one of the dress shirts would look best with shorts? The shirt usually covers the waist of the shorts and sometimes, a quick change from pants to shorts feels comfortable.
As long as one isn't walking around like a stuffed sausage with a shirt so tight it looks like it may rip the stitches at any moment; I see a bit too much of that these days.
Not too big either, you'll look like a pillow.
Where do you buy your custom shirts, pants, and suits?
Fantastic information! :-)
Can you recommend mail order custom and custom tailors?
If only we had more videos like this for women. You guys just don't know how hard it is to find this kind of knowledge more accesable when you're a female; you're looking everywhere, magazines, web articles, old archives, everything and it gets well... complicated? On YT the one video that actually goes into this much detail for women is the Justine Leconte vid and not much else.
I can only imagine that women's bodies are probably much harder to fit than men's especially any button downs.
I will recommend, in addition to Justine, Alyssa Beltempo and Marie Anne Lecoeur
I’d love to see a do’s and do nots for ties and bow ties. I pre-tie my regular ties because my neck size will not be shrinking and I don’t like guessing and thing a few times, and I was curious if that was considered by you to be a considerably negative idea.
Only clowns wear bow ties
Well I have to get my new shirts altered, or start getting custom shirts. I have a 19 inch neck, a 49 inch chest, and a 40 inch waist. A 19 inch shirt fits in the neck in collar and shoulders, but is baggy in the waist.
My neck measures 15.25" and I just bought a 16" supima cotton oxford shirt. It definitely feels loose. Does anybody know if I can shrink it in the dryer?
I saw Harry styles wearing a Gucci custom shirt at the Brits which had loose fitting arms with a more fitted body, What are your opinions on this ?
Great video. kind of short yet very thorough. Thank you...
Using this to find that right fit on my western shirts cause I outgrew all the old ones
Hi Raphael, what should you do in case your favorite shirt a little loose in collar? Any trick? Thank you.
Buy a new shirt. 👔 ☝️🥴
Hi, great presentation thankyou. What do you think about Windsor collar shirts? Are they better to be tailored, if a bit on the stout size or are off the shelf say from Hawes and Curtis in London? Thankyou
He has an entire video amd am article about shirt collars on the channel and his web site, respectively
@@krunoslavkovacec1842 thankyou
@@chunkychinn You are welcome.
Great video. Thank you. The only thing I feel contrary to is that you could find even a semi decent shirt for under $80. At under $80 you're likely getting made in China with Chinese fabric. Very difficult to get a great fabric at that price point and nearly impossible to get hand made. Just my findings. But, outstanding video!
I was wearing my dress shirt when the video came 😁 thanks mr raphael
11:49 I hope you don't mind me stealing that look Sven...
Undershirts or no undershirts I hate them but why do people say u need one ? What do you gouts think?
great video! but for the outfit you are wearing in this video, i think the blue in your shirt overpowers your tie
My dress shirts have always two inverted buttons has anyone a idea why?
I never find a ready made shirt that fits me 100% which is kinda why I like wearing regency style blouse shirts, cut a real dash and nobody else wears them
Hey, if you really like a shirt and the sleeves are just too long, you can always go old school and use sleeve garters.
I notice in some brand slim fit is still way too much fabric when you put shirt in the pants. In other slim fit looks almost perfect. Some brand have this superslim fit shirts and fit like slim fit in other brands. My advice check all options because you can be suprised. But when shirt looks good in waist are there is always too small in chest and oposite. Only tailoring or custom made give us perfect fit
I didn't want to know "sock suspenders" existed
Does anyone know where to buy custom shirts cheaply but quality?
This makes no sense.. quality ain’t cheap.. :/ you can‘t have both at the same time. Tailor Store is M2M, not pricey and the quality is alright.
@@SirMopy that's what I meant
In my city, Iraqi-Kurdistan, Duhok, you can get a bespoke shirt for $25-$35 depending on your body size. And if you get your own fabric, he will charge you only $15.
I’m convinced that you know a lot about clothes HOWEVER it is not presented in a way that I will remember...like a number of rules or bullet points...it all flows together instead of being categorized in a way that is easy to remember..I’m looking a guide or reference
Does this also apply to Dickies suits
26 and still learning to wear a shirt
I've always suspected that my shirt shouldn't be tight when I raise my arms a certain way!
I love this channel and the fashion items... But I never like the "classical" fit or Raphael fits his clothes... But I just like listening to him talk.
Edit: this was a good video.
I agree, in general I find his clothes very lumpy looking.
Thisvideo is especially helpful as someone with a very similar body type to Rafael. Maybe this is because we have a similar racial make-up.
It might be just me, but wouldn't all races benefit from a well fitting shirt?
Roomy is roomy, tight is tight no matter who you are...unless you are perhaps referring to Martians without arms and torsos?
@@MegaTinni I was referring to Rafael's body type. I know I've had trouble fitting things, and his advice almost seems tailored to me because we have similar body types; short legs, long torso, large posterior, etc.
@@poat9989 Advice he gives like 'should be able to fit a finger between neck and collar' and 'cuff should hit at wrist' and 'with pull lines the shirt is too tight' is applicable to all body types. I don't get how it's not. Perhaps I need an example to see how it wouldn't, if you're willing to waste some time.
@@MegaTinni He uses himself as an example. So when he refers to how his own body is shaped and what he needs to make shirts fit, they match what I would need... because of how my body is shaped. Because our bodies are similar... And my guess was because of a similar racial makeup.
I always get scars on my neck when I button the top button
I'd like to see a separated video about that skinny fit. I really like the look, because I'm not that kind of person who wears jacket every day, but somewhat the shirt is more stylish. Shirts without jacket should be smaller, well fitting in my opinion. However, I can't truck them so well that can be seen on those images promoting this kind of shirts. There are always a bit of additional fabric above my belt right after I truck in the shirt.
There is a mole among us! 8:52
As a man who hates dress shirts due to their neck collars, It’s a performance over appearance for me. I’d rather have it be bigger, less choking feeling, than having a tighter, crisper collar all day.
It appears that you do not wear an under shirt/tank top. Is that a no go? What do you suggest for people that sweat a lot so it doesn’t look like they went on a water ride wearing their suit? Haha
You actually can lengthen the sleeve of a shirt
I normally get a collar looser because my adams apple is bigger. I get so I can look down and still swallow or talk normally without my throat feeling restricted.
With all due respects to yourself, I find your videos interesting and informative but apart from taking into consideration, your personal preference, I would like to know why is it considered such a fashion violation to wear a dress shirt fully buttoned at the neck without a tie, also wearing a dress shirt untucked regardless of the length??
I do both regularly and really find the look perfectly okay and trendy and looking at some men’s fashion/style magazines, the look is promoted quite a lot, be it amongst the younger generations
'armhole' LOL
Pressed sausage...haha
.
Exactly
Ok, this helped. Penjis
Need a college degree to buy a dress shirt. It's well worth it though.
Good if you learned to tie your tie, and found a shirt collar that fits you. The cuff-links look like the type used by a shirt laundry service. Not impressed by your made-up rules.
They’re called formal shirts, dress shirts are what you wear with a dinner suit, (tuxedo)
skinny fit is the plague of the decade, i always get my shirts on the larger side on purpose, much better to have a larger shirt/coat/clothing than a super tight fit.
Hey, a slim fit shirt is for slim people…but you are not slim (no offense).
Perhaps a regular fit is an alternative to comfort fit and slim fit
Please make this episode in Spanish!
Weird voice mate
Its called an accent