@@Whateverpoopiepantsthis. Crank position sensors are like the first thing you should check if you have a TDI that won't start. 9/10 times it's just a cps, easy and cheap fix. You have to love TDIs, almost every other engine would have ring land failure or something along those lines
I had to replace that distributor cap every 10 years on my xm v6. By time it gets deformed when hot (probably by developing some hidden cracks) and makes inadequate contact with the rotor. It results in uneven running, lots of unburnt fuel and finally the engine stops when it gets hot and won't start again until cooled down.
Bear in mind E10 has an issue with hoses, check low pressure fuel hoses haven’t started to deteriorate internally. Change all the vacuum lines as well. Had this on a few classics, seems even E10 vapour hates hoses .
Good too see that things are improving. I would kindly suggest that you still try and remove the rotor and check it. As it was great a improvement when cleaning the distributor cap. And then you are sure that this is not the issue.
you certainly enjoy a challenge, my best citroen was ZX non turbo diesel..... because it was first citroen without majority of earlier silly gimmicks...suspension and wacky electricals
Hi when you operated throttle by hand , I could only one butterfly in throttle body opening, the front one,maybe it was the lighting, just thought I would check. Many thanks from UK.
Great video, bit of a soft spot for the XM and have owned two 2.1TD over the years but have always wanted a 24v V6. There's a relay pack under the bonnet slam panel by the left hand headlight which can suffer corrosion on the terminal blades. Can cause all sorts of electrical mischief when dirty.
ive been holding my breath waiting to hear if you have had any success so far . When its hot ,what sort of spark are you getting from the leads ,check see how far big the spark jumps compared when its cold , if the same that would count out coil and amp ect if spark is still big and fat . Definitely smoke test as you suggested a very good idea , and fuel pressure gauge inline so you can see real time what its doing . She does sound much sweeter . How old is the fuel ,e5 goes off very quickly . Looking forward to you cracking this problem . Some vehicles will run without the cam sensor connected as ecu then takes best guess from crank . Still rekon a oscilloscope on the sensors will clarify if breaking down when hot .
i'm inclined to believe that those cooling fans running at full speed during the a moment of heavy current draw(from the starter) are proobably messing up with with the ecu. did you try to disconnect them for a hot start test?
@@Alex-gf4ux Oh, you are right they do have different numbers. I have no idea what the difference is, but they seem to work with no issues (at least for me).
Definitely seems like something gets hot and goes high resistance making it reluctant to start, and that starter speed issue, could be a bad power cable or something somewhere making a poor connection that is hit or miss depending on when the thing is cranked... :\
I am reminded when many years ago our family car was a Citroen GS Club estate that one day after a 50 mile run refused to start back up again but turned over and over just like the XM is doing now but wouldnt fire. A failed battery voltage regulator was the problem for our car. Could something similar be an issue with the XM... i wouldnt know even if the XM has a similar regulator or not?? Anyway hope you find the fix
The never ending Citroën patience test continues.
Cam and crank position sensors are notorious for going "open" when hot. Check readings with the sensors HOT.
There is no cam position sensor on the ZPJ4 engine
Hot sensors is a thing.
I nearly binned a vw tdi with a dodgy cam phase sensor.
£1500 in other parts and the fix I did myself for £20. . . 😂
@@Whateverpoopiepantsthis. Crank position sensors are like the first thing you should check if you have a TDI that won't start. 9/10 times it's just a cps, easy and cheap fix. You have to love TDIs, almost every other engine would have ring land failure or something along those lines
I had to replace that distributor cap every 10 years on my xm v6. By time it gets deformed when hot (probably by developing some hidden cracks) and makes inadequate contact with the rotor. It results in uneven running, lots of unburnt fuel and finally the engine stops when it gets hot and won't start again until cooled down.
While watching your videos I always keep my fingers crossed that you fix one of the issues you address. I learn a lot from your checking procedures!!!
Bear in mind E10 has an issue with hoses, check low pressure fuel hoses haven’t started to deteriorate internally. Change all the vacuum lines as well. Had this on a few classics, seems even E10 vapour hates hoses .
Good too see that things are improving. I would kindly suggest that you still try and remove the rotor and check it. As it was great a improvement when cleaning the distributor cap. And then you are sure that this is not the issue.
you certainly enjoy a challenge, my best citroen was ZX non turbo diesel..... because it was first citroen without majority of earlier silly gimmicks...suspension and wacky electricals
Keep going, your logic will solve it. Great content!
Hi when you operated throttle by hand , I could only one butterfly in throttle body opening, the front one,maybe it was the lighting, just thought I would check. Many thanks from UK.
About 15:05
Theres loads of those distributer caps on ebay UK.. bmw used them and early lancia thema used the prv engine too.. they are about 80 euros here.. new
Also you don't need a lexia you can use a blink tester as you need to read ecus directly and not from a central port like Y4 cars...
@@Mr80sliveon Blinking only gives you fault codes. With Lexia, you have access to real time sensor data, which is a huge advantage.
Yes I agree. I have lexia.. and the lead to connect to these older models.. not all lexia kits have the lead to connect to the older cars..
Great video, bit of a soft spot for the XM and have owned two 2.1TD over the years but have always wanted a 24v V6.
There's a relay pack under the bonnet slam panel by the left hand headlight which can suffer corrosion on the terminal blades. Can cause all sorts of electrical mischief when dirty.
It's great trust to listen to your problem solving
ive been holding my breath waiting to hear if you have had any success so far . When its hot ,what sort of spark are you getting from the leads ,check see how far big the spark jumps compared when its cold , if the same that would count out coil and amp ect if spark is still big and fat .
Definitely smoke test as you suggested a very good idea , and fuel pressure gauge inline so you can see real time what its doing .
She does sound much sweeter .
How old is the fuel ,e5 goes off very quickly .
Looking forward to you cracking this problem .
Some vehicles will run without the cam sensor connected as ecu then takes best guess from crank . Still rekon a oscilloscope on the sensors will clarify if breaking down when hot .
i'm inclined to believe that those cooling fans running at full speed during the a moment of heavy current draw(from the starter) are proobably messing up with with the ecu. did you try to disconnect them for a hot start test?
Those distributor parts should be readily available because 6 and 12 cylinder BMWs are using same parts.
BMW distributor caps are very similar but have different Bosch part numbers.
@@Alex-gf4ux Oh, you are right they do have different numbers. I have no idea what the difference is, but they seem to work with no issues (at least for me).
If it's not the ignition module then I'd be checking and cleaning earth connections and wiring loom connections too.
Det strømfordelerdæksel ligner nøjagtig det samme som på min Bmw E30’er…Der sidder rotoren også med 3 skruer 😊
your strut mounts are really high,be carefull not to break your bonnet.(99% they are the originals.)
I too would suggest the ignition amplifier. Is it still attached to its mounting point/heat sink?
Yeah that could be a good one.
Definitely seems like something gets hot and goes high resistance making it reluctant to start, and that starter speed issue, could be a bad power cable or something somewhere making a poor connection that is hit or miss depending on when the thing is cranked... :\
90s injection when mixture is right will make quite a bit of water
It is strange that the cooling fans are running at the same time as you are starting the engine. It draws power from the starter motor
There seems to be an issue with the fan control and/or the driver side fan motor.
All XM’s do that when key is turned
Leaky injectors, hence the difference in starting sound
Those cooling fans shouldn't run on start up id re check the cooling sensor or wiring
Maybe could be fuel return lines related. Like if fuel turned into vapour not letting the car start
Cannot make vapours under 3 bar pressure
Crank sensor.
I am reminded when many years ago our family car was a Citroen GS Club estate that one day after a 50 mile run refused to start back up again but turned over and over just like the XM is doing now but wouldnt fire. A failed battery voltage regulator was the problem for our car. Could something similar be an issue with the XM... i wouldnt know even if the XM has a similar regulator or not?? Anyway hope you find the fix
I am wondering has this car timing chain or belt?
Посмотри на состояние левой опоры, похоже её скоро оторвёт и помнёт капот.
I was also going to ask does it have a form of spark amplifier like the old 240's
hmm hmm..
🔧👍🍋
🤤🙌
What a weird issue!!!
ignition amplifier