Just finished this exact job with alot of the same parts. The power wire that runs to the duck foot has a connector by the battery terminal, not a fuse. There is one by the alternator as well. Keep up the good work!
Hello i just watched your part1 & part2 regarding how to delete fusible link on your truck. It’s nice and i want to delete my fusible link also on my truck. Nice idea...
I've got a 85 Dodge Ram D-350 flat bed trk 360/727 I checked out all the fuses inside the glove box all of those colorful fuses checked out good but I never knew what the problem was after that I bought new everything for the trk trying to rule out the problem I only got 2 drives out of my trk I never got to put any miles on the trk it sat for 5 years it's only got 60 thousand miles on it because of these things called fuseable links I never knew this wow thank you so much 🙏
First off, thanks for the video,best I've seen on this fusible delete. I'm about to order everything I will need but would like to know how it has worked out for you over time, any problems? Thanks
Hey bud great vids very in depth thank u... so I bought an 93 d350 5 speed manual speedo and Odom not working everything else is ..I’m not confident in electrical but curious on where you would start looking..thanks again great job
The most common cause of this issue is the vehicle speed sensor. Take it off and make sure the gears are still good and the speedo cable is still lubed good
Hey, really Informative video, I am in the process of doing this to my truck. I can't find that fuse box in stock anywhere, do you have any alternatives or a source? Would really appreciate it. Thank you!
Great videos broski. I have a 1988 d100 ram. It has crank but no spark. I replaced ecm, alternator, rotor, distributor cap, hall effect pickup, starter, starter relay, auto shut down relay, spark plugs, spark wires, map sensor, throttle relay, battery terminals, coolant sensor, oil sensor. man I have pretty much done everything I can think of. But I never knew about fusable links. I have checked and some look like they need replacement. Would following your delete videos work on my 1988'? Its not a Cummins and it's v6 3.9l 239.
I love this Video and its gonna be perfect to fix some issues i have with the Dash... I didn't see any Ground Cables running to the Big Fuse Box? So are you saying it doesn't need to be because the wires are already grounded? Just want to be sure so I dont burn up my truck. Thanks any feed back would be appreciated.
Thanks for the fantastic videos! Very timely as my '93 just burned up one of the links and I am stuck until I complete this work. You mentioned that you used a butt connector with a solder plug for the 6GA alternator wire. What connectors did you use for the ring and butt connections for the smaller gauge wires? Simple crimp connectors covered with heat shrink tubing or something else? Thanks!
Hi, I have watched this a hundred times, its been a great help but I have questions.... - The duck foot side with 2 wires, the thick 6 ga and the red....where does the red go ? To the fuse block? It seems to be for the hazaed flasher? - I have 2 black wires off my +battery terminal that go to the grid heater ....those stay put or are they fusible links too? Seems to go from skinny wire to heavier gauge so cant tell if its a link. - Your diagram shows 2 red wires that turn into 1 white wire, I dont have this? What option was it for that I may not have?
I'm having to the same with my 93 w250 what size fuses are u using ? i seen were the alt its a mega link. now the other fuses seems to use a 40 amp . is that block rated for that or, can u tell the run down on parts please?
Hey I’m looking at removing the fusible links and also giving me the future connection points for misc upgrades such as lighting, stereo, etc. and wondering what drove you to the large Blue Seas safety hub with high current protection since you routed your alternator around it? What connection points are you putting through the high current (>50A) fuses? Awesome videos you’ve shared BTW.
Great videos! I just happened to have a Blue Sea Systems ST Blade ATO/ATC 12 Fuse Block that I purchased for my 4Runner that I never installed. I installed it in my new to me 91 W250 to replace a old and crusty fuse panel that was under the hood, but after watching your vids I have some questions. 1. Where did you get those stand-offs that you mounted the fuse blocks too? and 2. Did you connect the negative from the fuse blocks to the neg on the battery? I have heard some people say they connected the negative to chassis ground and was wondering if there is a big difference? I am probably going to buy the Blue Sea HUB 150 fuse block to do the fusible link delete on my 1st gen as well. Thanks in advance for the reply.
Thanks for the support! The stand off blocks are just cheap 1 in C channel aluminum pieces that I cut in to 1 inch lengths. I ran the grounds for both of my fuse blocks to the drivers fender and haven't had any issues
Thanks for the video! Super long question and info to follow I am having a charging problem on my 91 w250. When it first started I put a new voltage regulator on and it fixed it, for about a week after putting four more on and having the same issue I decided that it was probably not just because I was buying aftermarket Napa voltage regulators so I put a new alternator on and that did not fix it then we put an internal voltage regulator on it and it didn't work so I watched this video and deleted the fusible links and am now having the same problem. I also cleaned all the grounds. If you have any ideas please let me know I'll try anything at this point.
Where did you get your battery cables? I need to replace mine and I plan on doing the fusible link delete and external fuse box etc. might as well get the right cables to begin with!
Question about the diagram at 2:25. Is the gauge of wire listed for the fusable link being replaced, or is it for the extension wire leading to the harness? If the gauge listed is for the fusable link being replaced, how did you decide the gauge of wire to extend the harness to the new fuse box?
That diagram is referencing the gauge of the fusible link. After lots of research I determined that the way to decide on what gauge wire to replace it with is to go to gauges bigger. So a 20 gauge fusible link should be replaced with 16 gauge wire. An 18 gauge link should be replaced with 14 gauge wire, etc. Hope that helps.
The Duckfoot cable close to where it hooks to battery, is that just disconnect or was there a fuse in there. If there is a fuse what size is it supposed to be? Great video...!
Any other fuse blocks out there to hold the 40 and 60 midi? Blue sea keeps cancelling order due to various reasons (out of stock, not passing inspection)
Shoot, they were out of stock for months and finally came back in stock. It is honestly the only stand alone aftermarket fuse block I'd recommend for this. If I had to use something different i would pull s fuse box out of s different vehicle and retrofit it.
So you said you respond to every comment, I am hoping that is still true, seeing that these videos are a bit old. But I am needing a quick response since I have my hood up right now. I have a 2009 Pontiac G6 (I know a bit different than your truck lol) but it has one fusible link on it and it goes from the Starter to the Alternator. (At least that is what I can see and tell) I do believe the fusible link has blown causing the battery to die since the alternator is not getting proper power to charge the battery. My question is could I run a power line directly to the alternator from my positive battery terminal with maybe a fusible link attached there, right to my alternator?
One easy question, and not sure if it was asked already, but what kind of c-channel did you use for mounting the Blue Sea boxes to? Just plain aluminum stock from a hardware store? Does that help keep water off them? Thanks again! I subscribed!
Yeah I just used 1 inch aluminum C channel that you would find st the hardware store. The reason I used it is because I had it laying around haha. Eventually I will make a much nicer mounting panel for both boxes mount to.
I have a 1991 cummins i have a slow drain i dont know where its coming from its driving me crazy i feel like it started when i switched my old battery out, any ideas what to look for thanks so much
So on the backside (power supply side) of the duckfoot. Is the red wire just a power supply to the relay I see that it runs directly to on of the fender mounted relays. Maybe I missed it did you address this in the video? Feel like I’m missing that
decent_1st_gen sorry I apologize I commented too soon I watched part 2 again and saw where you addressed it. Can’t tell you how helpful these two videos were for me. I got the same fuse boxes. The blue sea systems boxes are great. Only thing I did different was make my own wiring for the alternator using 1/0 cable for the charging cable and grounds and got rid of the factory harness. Worked well since I use an extra regulator. It seems to provide less fluctuation of voltage even with all my accessories.
Yeah, they keep going in and out of stock. There isn't a great alternative option that can support the mega fuses. It may be worth contact Blue Seas Systems directly.
@@decentgarage I got to looking, the safetyhub 150 is more expensive than I'd like but I don't have much choice. I need my fusible link gone, it's covered in "green death"
Great video(s)! I would love to do this but don't have the $$ right now. Does anyone know what is the name or where could I get that "duckfoot" since my AC wire has come out of it and I don't think it will attach properly. Thanks
Replacing the actual duck foot is not a common route to go in your situation. What I would do as a TEMPORARY fix would be run a power wire straight to the fusible link that came out of the duck foot. Does that make sense?
Can’t find these but it’s better to bypass as that thick power wire with what seems like a fuse is not and that created a short for me and the source of my problems
Tim, could I do this project without buying that OTHER fuse box you have installed there in the engine bay? Will everything from the duckfoot integrate into the blue seas 150 alone?
Hey Decent Garage, I just bought a 92 d350 that has some major electrical problems. I was hoping you could help me out. Also, is there another fuse box you would recommend because the blue sea is sold out.
@@jacksonwoodward9710 the closest shoukd still work fine swapping to a manual. Did you pull it out and check all the connections? I'd do that and also check that all your grounds are good
I noticed this as well. I'm going to call Blue Seas Systems this week and see how long they will be out of stock. Their fuse block is by far the best option. I'll update the video description with what I find out.
Hey decent garage, went to start my truck, dash light went dim and the white puff of smoke from under the hood and now I have no crank, no dash lights. Would this be from a fusible link going? 92 first gen
@@decentgarage thank you. , really came as shock and has me stumped. Happened right after I did a trans service which definitely did require touching wires.
Make sure to watch Part 2 to see how the fusible link delete turned out: czcams.com/video/2TnMJTJnF0Y/video.html
Thanks for taking the time to make this! Your driveway has one hell of a view man.
It was a fun one to film. Yeah it's an amazing view. Then from inside the house I can see the whole valley.
Just finished this exact job with alot of the same parts. The power wire that runs to the duck foot has a connector by the battery terminal, not a fuse. There is one by the alternator as well. Keep up the good work!
Thanks! Yeah i discovered it's just a connector in part 2. Thanks for the support and comment!
This video was really helpful. so many other video but none of them explained it like you did.
Thanks for the support Kenneth! I'm glad to hear this was helpful.
I actually got to see one of my links burn it was pretty funny. Now it works great. Great video.
That would be fun to see!
I will keep this in mind. Just replaced a fusible link on a 1980s Kubota tractor. If it ever goes again I may try to fix it like you did.
Nice! It's sick seeing other youtubers making 1st gen videos.
Thanks! 1st gens are a passion of mine so I figure I should start contributing haha
Hello i just watched your part1 & part2 regarding how to delete fusible link on your truck. It’s nice and i want to delete my fusible link also on my truck. Nice idea...
Let me know if you have any questions 👍
thank, you so much for you're time and you're video 🙏
Really good vid - thank you!
Thanks for the support!
I've got a 85 Dodge Ram D-350 flat bed trk 360/727 I checked out all the fuses inside the glove box all of those colorful fuses checked out good but I never knew what the problem was after that I bought new everything for the trk trying to rule out the problem I only got 2 drives out of my trk I never got to put any miles on the trk it sat for 5 years it's only got 60 thousand miles on it because of these things called fuseable links I never knew this wow thank you so much 🙏
First off, thanks for the video,best I've seen on this fusible delete. I'm about to order everything I will need but would like to know how it has worked out for you over time, any problems? Thanks
I just subbed you better keep the premo content coming bro.
I won't let you down 👍
Nice. I did the dodge dakota fuse box conversion. Turned out nice bit it was hard to tell my self to cut all those at first lol
Yeah it was pretty scary making that first cut! I'm past the point of no return though haha
Hey Nick, what year is your Dakota? I'm looking to do this on my 89 Dak 3.9 Engine Automatic. Any tips?
awesome informative video..Question where does the dashboard lights get power from ?
Decent Gar: where to purchase led light bulbs for '91 Dodge inst. panel & also where to purchase speedometer gears? Thanks, Roger
Hey bud great vids very in depth thank u... so I bought an 93 d350 5 speed manual speedo and Odom not working everything else is ..I’m not confident in electrical but curious on where you would start looking..thanks again great job
The most common cause of this issue is the vehicle speed sensor. Take it off and make sure the gears are still good and the speedo cable is still lubed good
I'm going over now to see part #2
Glad you enjoyed both parts 👍
Hey, really Informative video, I am in the process of doing this to my truck. I can't find that fuse box in stock anywhere, do you have any alternatives or a source? Would really appreciate it. Thank you!
Great videos broski. I have a 1988 d100 ram. It has crank but no spark. I replaced ecm, alternator, rotor, distributor cap, hall effect pickup, starter, starter relay, auto shut down relay, spark plugs, spark wires, map sensor, throttle relay, battery terminals, coolant sensor, oil sensor. man I have pretty much done everything I can think of. But I never knew about fusable links. I have checked and some look like they need replacement. Would following your delete videos work on my 1988'? Its not a Cummins and it's v6 3.9l 239.
I understand what you're doing you're by passing the factory wiring and making you're own
I love this Video and its gonna be perfect to fix some issues i have with the Dash... I didn't see any Ground Cables running to the Big Fuse Box? So are you saying it doesn't need to be because the wires are already grounded? Just want to be sure so I dont burn up my truck. Thanks any feed back would be appreciated.
I believe we were able to talk on IG and get you squared away 👍
Thanks for the fantastic videos! Very timely as my '93 just burned up one of the links and I am stuck until I complete this work. You mentioned that you used a butt connector with a solder plug for the 6GA alternator wire. What connectors did you use for the ring and butt connections for the smaller gauge wires? Simple crimp connectors covered with heat shrink tubing or something else?
Thanks!
So i always try to use solder with a butt connector and then heat shrink. This is also what i did for the eye connectors.
Hi, I have watched this a hundred times, its been a great help but I have questions....
- The duck foot side with 2 wires, the thick 6 ga and the red....where does the red go ? To the fuse block? It seems to be for the hazaed flasher?
- I have 2 black wires off my +battery terminal that go to the grid heater ....those stay put or are they fusible links too? Seems to go from skinny wire to heavier gauge so cant tell if its a link.
- Your diagram shows 2 red wires that turn into 1 white wire, I dont have this? What option was it for that I may not have?
You are the man bro, can’t thank you enough for you’r channel really helps!
I appreciate that!
I'm having to the same with my 93 w250 what size fuses are u using ? i seen were the alt its a mega link. now the other fuses seems to use a 40 amp . is that block rated for that or, can u tell the run down on parts please?
Hello
Thank you for the content you provide for the first gen Cummins
Question where can I find a emc for a 91 dodge w250 any idea
Thank you
Martin
Ecm's have to be rebuilt or you have to find a good used one
Hey I’m looking at removing the fusible links and also giving me the future connection points for misc upgrades such as lighting, stereo, etc. and wondering what drove you to the large Blue Seas safety hub with high current protection since you routed your alternator around it?
What connection points are you putting through the high current (>50A) fuses?
Awesome videos you’ve shared BTW.
I ran all the fusible link through either 40 or 60 amp mega fuses. I didn't run the alternator through it because it needed a 150 amp maxi fuse.
Great videos! I just happened to have a Blue Sea Systems ST Blade ATO/ATC 12 Fuse Block that I purchased for my 4Runner that I never installed. I installed it in my new to me 91 W250 to replace a old and crusty fuse panel that was under the hood, but after watching your vids I have some questions. 1. Where did you get those stand-offs that you mounted the fuse blocks too? and 2. Did you connect the negative from the fuse blocks to the neg on the battery? I have heard some people say they connected the negative to chassis ground and was wondering if there is a big difference? I am probably going to buy the Blue Sea HUB 150 fuse block to do the fusible link delete on my 1st gen as well. Thanks in advance for the reply.
Thanks for the support! The stand off blocks are just cheap 1 in C channel aluminum pieces that I cut in to 1 inch lengths. I ran the grounds for both of my fuse blocks to the drivers fender and haven't had any issues
Thanks for the video! Super long question and info to follow I am having a charging problem on my 91 w250. When it first started I put a new voltage regulator on and it fixed it, for about a week after putting four more on and having the same issue I decided that it was probably not just because I was buying aftermarket Napa voltage regulators so I put a new alternator on and that did not fix it then we put an internal voltage regulator on it and it didn't work so I watched this video and deleted the fusible links and am now having the same problem. I also cleaned all the grounds. If you have any ideas please let me know I'll try anything at this point.
Sounds like it's time to just buy a 1 wire alternator.
Could the fuse able links have anything to do with the gauge cluster, cause nothing on my gauge cluster works. And great on explaining how it’s done
They do affect some of the gauge cluster and the lighting to the cluster.
Where did you get your battery cables? I need to replace mine and I plan on doing the fusible link delete and external fuse box etc. might as well get the right cables to begin with!
I had them made at a battery shop when i was in Alaska... Sorry not helpful for you
Just wondering what size awg you used to feed both fuse blocks and the size for the alternator? Sorry if I missed it somewhere in the video!
I used 6 gauge for them and it works fine. I'd use 6 or 4 gauge
Question about the diagram at 2:25. Is the gauge of wire listed for the fusable link being replaced, or is it for the extension wire leading to the harness?
If the gauge listed is for the fusable link being replaced, how did you decide the gauge of wire to extend the harness to the new fuse box?
That diagram is referencing the gauge of the fusible link. After lots of research I determined that the way to decide on what gauge wire to replace it with is to go to gauges bigger. So a 20 gauge fusible link should be replaced with 16 gauge wire. An 18 gauge link should be replaced with 14 gauge wire, etc. Hope that helps.
The Duckfoot cable close to where it hooks to battery, is that just disconnect or was there a fuse in there. If there is a fuse what size is it supposed to be? Great video...!
It turned out to not be a fuse and was simply a connector.
Any other fuse blocks out there to hold the 40 and 60 midi? Blue sea keeps cancelling order due to various reasons (out of stock, not passing inspection)
Shoot, they were out of stock for months and finally came back in stock. It is honestly the only stand alone aftermarket fuse block I'd recommend for this. If I had to use something different i would pull s fuse box out of s different vehicle and retrofit it.
So you said you respond to every comment, I am hoping that is still true, seeing that these videos are a bit old. But I am needing a quick response since I have my hood up right now. I have a 2009 Pontiac G6 (I know a bit different than your truck lol) but it has one fusible link on it and it goes from the Starter to the Alternator. (At least that is what I can see and tell) I do believe the fusible link has blown causing the battery to die since the alternator is not getting proper power to charge the battery. My question is could I run a power line directly to the alternator from my positive battery terminal with maybe a fusible link attached there, right to my alternator?
I need to pick up one the factory service manuals.
Email me at decentgaragechannel@gmail.com. I've got a digital 93 service manual I'll send you 👍
@@decentgarage could you send me one thank you
@@toyle222 shoot me an email 👍
One easy question, and not sure if it was asked already, but what kind of c-channel did you use for mounting the Blue Sea boxes to? Just plain aluminum stock from a hardware store? Does that help keep water off them? Thanks again! I subscribed!
Yeah I just used 1 inch aluminum C channel that you would find st the hardware store. The reason I used it is because I had it laying around haha. Eventually I will make a much nicer mounting panel for both boxes mount to.
@@decentgarage Right on..thanks! I look forward to seeing that!
I'll be driving home the white first gen this weekend which has a 47rh so that will help me know what that tranny feels like. Stay tuned!
I have a 1991 cummins i have a slow drain i dont know where its coming from its driving me crazy i feel like it started when i switched my old battery out, any ideas what to look for thanks so much
It's hard to say where exactly it's coming from but there are a ton a good CZcams video on finding parasitic draw
So on the backside (power supply side) of the duckfoot. Is the red wire just a power supply to the relay I see that it runs directly to on of the fender mounted relays. Maybe I missed it did you address this in the video? Feel like I’m missing that
Hey Toby, yes, the red wire just needs straight 12v power. Sorry if that wasn't clear in the video.
decent_1st_gen sorry I apologize I commented too soon I watched part 2 again and saw where you addressed it. Can’t tell you how helpful these two videos were for me. I got the same fuse boxes. The blue sea systems boxes are great. Only thing I did different was make my own wiring for the alternator using 1/0 cable for the charging cable and grounds and got rid of the factory harness. Worked well since I use an extra regulator. It seems to provide less fluctuation of voltage even with all my accessories.
@@tobyhicks3591 awesome! I love mine and have not had any issues.
Those safety box 150's aren't available anymore, you must have bought the last one,lol, any suggestion as a substitute?
Yeah, they keep going in and out of stock. There isn't a great alternative option that can support the mega fuses. It may be worth contact Blue Seas Systems directly.
Would I have to use that exact fuse block or would a different block work?
I'm sure there are others that would work. I don't know of any to recommend though
@@decentgarage I got to looking, the safetyhub 150 is more expensive than I'd like but I don't have much choice. I need my fusible link gone, it's covered in "green death"
Great video(s)! I would love to do this but don't have the $$ right now. Does anyone know what is the name or where could I get that "duckfoot" since my AC wire has come out of it and I don't think it will attach properly. Thanks
Replacing the actual duck foot is not a common route to go in your situation. What I would do as a TEMPORARY fix would be run a power wire straight to the fusible link that came out of the duck foot. Does that make sense?
Can’t find these but it’s better to bypass as that thick power wire with what seems like a fuse is not and that created a short for me and the source of my problems
Tim, could I do this project without buying that OTHER fuse box you have installed there in the engine bay? Will everything from the duckfoot integrate into the blue seas 150 alone?
Yes, you absolutely can do this with just the blue seas 150. That's what I would have done if I didn't have the other one installed already
@@decentgarage thanks for replying quickly even after your channel is booming!
@@decentgarage I’m sure I’ll have some more questions in the following weeks
Hey Decent Garage, I just bought a 92 d350 that has some major electrical problems. I was hoping you could help me out. Also, is there another fuse box you would recommend because the blue sea is sold out.
The blue seas box will come back in stock. It always does.
@@decentgarage awesome man thanks! And do you have a video on how to get your cluster working again? I can’t find one.
@@jacksonwoodward9710 what part of your cluster?
@@decentgarage the whole thing my man. The truck was an automatic originally, now has an nv4500.
@@jacksonwoodward9710 the closest shoukd still work fine swapping to a manual. Did you pull it out and check all the connections? I'd do that and also check that all your grounds are good
Hey man I tried looking for the fuse box but they ran out any other recommendations ?
I noticed this as well. I'm going to call Blue Seas Systems this week and see how long they will be out of stock. Their fuse block is by far the best option. I'll update the video description with what I find out.
Hey decent garage, went to start my truck, dash light went dim and the white puff of smoke from under the hood and now I have no crank, no dash lights. Would this be from a fusible link going? 92 first gen
I would check fusible Links as well as the starter relay which is on the inner wall of the driver fender right by the fusible links
@@decentgarage thank you. , really came as shock and has me stumped. Happened right after I did a trans service which definitely did require touching wires.
I make my own battery cables I just buy the the top post battery clamps and I use welding leads
Damn! Camry needs an alt link the long blue fuse but it's definitely not worth to bypass last thing I wanna do is burn the fuse
I Have a 1985 dodge d100 custom and my wiring is different colors than yours cant find any information on that
There should be a factory service manual for it.
People find it shocking that I'm not good with electrical work.
People think I'm good at it because of videos like this but I'm really not 😅
Could you not cut the duck foot out and replace it with a new duck foot?
No point in doing that. Just replace it with mega fuses.
Let's do one for a nissan 350 Z
why do you wan to delete fusale liknks?
They can be the source of electrical issues on these trucks.
great stuff...but what are your doing and WHY?.. . not explained very well
Sorry, that's not the feedback i've gotten from most people...
JUST SHOW HOW TO DELETE THE LINK
YOU DONT DESERVE TO DELETE THE LINK!
@@decentgarage deleted it. Without your lengthy video of talking about everything you’re doing that isn’t deleting the link.
@@AustinDonnell173 congratulations