The One Wire That Will Save Your Car!
Vložit
- čas přidán 4. 08. 2020
- A dead shorted alternator on the interstate could have burned our car to the ground, if it wasn't for this thing. The Fusable Link is a standard part an all vintage cars, but most people don't even know it exists much less the important job it does.
- Auta a dopravní prostředky
That hood latch gets more action than a public restroom.
999thenewman - My neighbor across the street has an old diesel Jetta. He opens the hood more than he does the drivers door. 😂
@@blipco5 😂😂 I feel attacked by these comments
Sounds like my 65 Valiant
I popped my hood latch til the rivets holding the latch on failed.
Then I bolted that mother f*cker down.
That b!tch is popped right. Now.
I got so tired of it I took the hood off lol
Another Vintage Car Public Safety Announcement From UTG. Thank You.
VCPSA
Years back a bloke I used to work with wanted some of those motorised yellow flashing/spinning lights on the roof of his tipper truck. I offered to fit them but he didn't trust me to do it, "Better get a professional to do it" he said.. So the first day he had them he parked his truck up in the road with the lights on all proud and that. Next thing we know there's smoke coming out the dash. We put the fire out after a fashion but it was all a bit melty. The -twat- professional at the garage put everything through a tiny 10A switch fed direct of the battery, no relay, no fuses.. "Good thing you got a professional to do it ain't it Kev?". "Fuck off" he said.
Laughing my ass off !
Kev ate a scissor kick to the back of the head on that one
I say it all the time, just cause someone does it for a living, doesn't mean they are good at it. We have all had an idiot coworker who doesn't know how to do shit.
I did that once and I learned my lesson when I saw my switch starting to smoke lol since then I never wire anything without a fuse or a relay with it even if they were little tiny lights I put it to a fuse and relay.
I repaired at least a couple dozen Harley harnesses when those killer loud 140db electric air horns were popular. They came with a relay and wiring diagram, but the so called experts knew for sure that the 18 gauge wire for the factory horn was enough for those little blasters (over 10A load!) $10 parts, 2 hrs labor, easy clean work. 14 gauge wire and a $5 relay would have been a lot better up front than as a repair. Funny, I haven’t seen one of those horns in a few years now......
Thank you uncle Tony. I did rewire my old car and didnt know i needed this. You probably just saved my baby.
The most important part is it doesn’t matter exactly what kind of link you have.
Be it a fusable link that melts.
Or a fuse that pops and can be replaced.
Or even circuit breakers “like in a house”
Those are my favorite but most expensive.
But! Great for testing. Just don’t be tempted to hold the switch down to try and get home
Time for many people to find this now before it's 2 AM and you 80 miles from home.
Glad everything is okay, Tony. I added a few fusible links to my former'63 imperial.
....or tap in circuit breaker...
I had the same problem on my 70 Cuda. Overcharging. NEVER BY_PASS THE FUSIBLE LINK. EVER!
Ever seen an ammeter catch on fire ?
It's pretty cool.
I've heard of it , and then got to see it live in my buddies Cutlass one day while we were sitting at a light.
And it was near his left knee.
I was able to reach under and bust the wires off and we got it out , tied the wires together and rode home.
I hate ammeters , I'll take a volt gauge any day.
Grabbing a wire that is shorting is dangerous.
I was using welding wire to test a circuit, and accidentally shorted it and it touched my hand.
Yay another blister! You fit right in here!
I had a 73 cuda that had the amp meter in the dash short out and kill the car dead and wouldn't start afterwards. It didnt blow the fusible link. Just a loose wire at the back of the amp meter. Friggin lucky.
@@fastinradfordable
Haha I did that once , I had a jumper wire I was testing with on the + for the battery , I slipped and it touched the core support and started smoking.
Like hell I'm letting it melt to the plastic grille below it.
Burned me right in the index finger at the first joint and almost stuck my tip of my finger in a bend, like it was tight for a few days to straighten that end of my finger out.
Saved a 125$ grille though 🤣
@@simplyfred8044
Hell yea ,cause the one in my buddies Cutlass actually had flames brewing inside behind the glass.
Haha it was assholes and elbows as I ran around to the other side and pulled him out and started to rip the wires off the back.
Didn't get burned but it was an exciting moment.
Then the light turned green and we had 50 cars beeping at us as we pushed it to the roadside.
Uncle Tony's VCA
Vintage Car Alert
What are you referring to when you say " regular " and " fusible link " wire. ? Thanks in advance. Jack
Discovered the fusible link on my 66 Mustang when I was a kid. Got really familiar that damn wire until I discovered the problem with the starter relay.
i've been there more than i'd like to admit, glad you found your problem. Thanks for the laugh too!
Uncle Tony, I just wanted to say that I really appreciate your videos! I have learned a great deal in the last few months randomly watching your videos here and there, you have a knack for explaining things in a way that anyone with basic knowledge can understand and fully comprehend. Thank you!!
I asked about a video on wiring gremlins....this is pretty close! Thanks uncle T!
Its videos like this that i can appreciate on youtube. A simple quick video that touches on a very important topic. My 91 mustang had a rigged up speaker wire hooked to the starter solenoid. Ling story short the wire started smoking. Fusible links are very important for these old cars. Great video Bud 👍🏼🇺🇸
Thanks for the great info Uncle Tony, of all the things that you have taught us so far this is one of the most important!
Thanks for the tip uncle Tony l wasn't even aware of the fusible link regards Anthony from down under
Uncle tony u always seem to post the right video when I need most. I appreciate all the help ✌
Just talked to my mechanic. He said to check my fusible link to my chevy 454. I lost all power. Sure enough... I've never heard tell of these. Always seen em. Never knew what they were for.
I was gonna replace with solid wire with no fusible link but THIS video just kept me from doing that.
The 454 is in my 32' RV that I live in.
Nice to see old skool tips! It's been years since I worked on anything like your beautiful car! I love the good old rides!
The fusible link is so important. I think that on these older cars it's also a good idea to have a fire extinguisher in the car too. One thing I've seen with the few Chrystlers is that the legs on the ammeter gauge will burn and melt off some of the time even with a fusible link. Honestly having the ammeter as part of the charging circuit for the car is really asking for trouble. It can work flawlessly or your car can burn to the ground. I just disconnected the ammeter on my roadrunner. I'd rather manually check the battery voltage every once in a while with a multimeter. Keep one in the on-board toolbox I keep in the trunk anyway.
I always carry an extra ballast resistor in the glove box of my Cuda & my Challenger...
What year cuda and what year challenger?
Smart people that drive and old Chrysler "ALWAYS" carry one in their glove box. Chrysler should have put an extra one in at the glove box at the factory. It is as needed as much as a spare tire!
I remember when I was about 13 and I saw a bunch of adults around the hood of a Chrysler that wouldn't start. Nobody could figure it out. I had seen my older brother diagnose his car days earlier as a bad ballast resistor. They were saying they checked points and fuel but it still wouldn't start. I removed the wires from the ballast resistor and held them together. I said OK, start it up! An adult said you mean, try to start it ??? I said NO! Start it up...... The car fired up and everybody looked amazed or dumbfounded. I said just replace this ballast resistor and walked away like it was nothin'. I got to feel like a genius for a day. 😲 😂 😃 😀
yeah the ballast resistors amazing you almost think it's a fuel pump at first.
just a simple thing with Chrysler to you just unscrewa couple of hex screws into the firewall switch it out plug the new one in and it fires right up.
they truly are weird how they can do that and people that don't know anything about mopars back in the day get towed in the shops and everything..
and It happened One night after seeing movie back in the eighties I'll never forget it.
first Chrysler product of the 70s I owned
acted like the fuel pump with bad just said they're turned over and turned over just wouldnt start. guy with a big old Monaco walked over here.
proceed to take the ballast resistor out pluged the new one in and started right up.gave him five bucks at the time I'll never forget it. Went home ever since that time I said that's unbelievable he said they'll go out when you least expect them to. from that point on I always kept a spare ballast resistor in the glove box on all three of the Mopar cars back then
LeeDuKe 951 - both are 1970.
My father would only buy Chrysler Corp. cars and when I was a child in the late 1970's we had 3 Mopars with the electronic ignition. The oldest was a 1974 Valiant which my Mother drove ( we also had a 1976 Dodge pickup and my Fathers new 1979 Chrysler Le Baron) and it left me and her stranded one day while we were shopping. A good samaritan that happened to also have a Valiant offered to help. He got his spare ballast resistor and crescent wrench out of his trunk and changed it out in less than 1 minute. The car started right up. He told my mother to buy a few extras and keep them in the car along with a wrench. My mother did just that and I quickly learned how to change them out. It turns out that the aftermarket ones didn't last long at all ( about 6 months to 1 year ) but were about 1/4 the price of an OEM unit. My mother finally got wise and spent the extra money on 2 factory ones. These lasted at least 3 to 4 years each. We had one still in the box in the glove compartment when we sold the car in 1985 because my Father bought a '85 New Yorker Turbo for my Mother as an anniversary present. When the new owner called us in 3 weeks complaining that the car wouldn't start, we told him about the spare resistor. He called back 15 minutes later and said that the car ran and everything was good.
Not embarrassed to admit,didn't know of the fusible link! Thank you Tony!!!!! Got an old 63 GMC flatbed(305 v6) I'm having one installed
That's the exact reason why I did away with the factory amp meter and ran a volt meter in its place when I changed over to an internally regulated alternator.
i swapped out the instrument cluster in my 77 chevy K10...... old one was a volt meter..... "new" one was a drain / charge meter
.
started up the truck..... and smelled melted plastic.... and the guages were all fucked
took it back apart...
.
and the "printed circuit board" on the back of the cluster was all melted.
.
thought about it for a second..... and then realized a volt and amp meter are wired COMPLETELY differently
Along time ago I spent days hunting down a no start condition on my Jeep comanche to finally find it was fuseible link burned inside the insulation...taught me to start troubleshooting at the battery to the issue from then on out.
For me it was dad's 76 F250.. it kept burning the damn things, and finally I tracked down the problem, but its been 34 years so I can't remember what it was. So when it happened on the 67 Cougar, I knew exactly what it was. Have never had a problem like that with my Pontiacs, but man the Fords sure had gremlins in them.
Always check the ground first, then the positive side.
Car looks great! Nice daily driver! I love seeing old cars being driven daily...very cool
Glad you didn't lose the car I forgot about this till you mentioned it. I see your neighbors have some toys.
Great advice! Wish I had heard it about a year ago. Someone did some rewiring on my '56 Chevy and an ignition wire caught fire going down the road. My dash gauges reacted just like you described. I was lucky that I got pulled over and got it put out quickly, but not before giving my hand a serious burn.
I’m glad you and Uncle Cathy are safe . Cheers
I just subscribe a few days ago and been watching your videos, great channel by the way. 👍 I just watched this video and literally stop everything to make sure that fuselink was present. Thank you UTG.
I had the fusible link go out on my 77 Impala years ago luckily I was at work where I fixed it but wow I totally did forget about the fusible link until you just brought it up Uncle Tony
Absolutely True, I had a short when using jumper cables and it took out the fusable link on my alternator. I knew it was there and I haven't replaced it yet. Thank you for the reminder Uncle Tony!
When I used to drive mopars of that vintage I always found that the starter solenoid and the electronic ign. box had to be regrounded BC Chrysler used the body for the ground and rust would cause all kinds of electrical problems.
Electronic voltage regulator will need to be grounded due to rust also!
That's a good question because I have always wondered about those grounding strips that drag on the ground. In order to actually 'ground' your car otherwise its sitting on 4 insulating rubber tires ? Where does the electricity go once its "inside" the frame if your car ?
@@matthewb7049 It goes through the negative cable to the battery. That's why it's called a circuit. If you follow the negative side of the battery the strap is screwed to the frame. PS. Some older cars were positive ground. The positive cable went to the frame.
twisted dome
They “grounders” that drag are for static electricity.
When electricity grounds in your cars system that just means it’s on its way back to the battery.
You could run a separate ground wiring harness if you wanted and actually make it so the body of your car would not complete the circuit to the battery.
And that might actually be the safest option.
Won’t save you from a failed alternator though!
Thanks guys 👍
Ok, one year later, I now understand the term fusible link. I was confusing it with an inline fuse. Just changed the Alt upgrade to 100 amp, with new starter solenoid. Putting in a fusible link 4 awg sizes smaller. 8 gauge Alt wire to solenoid now protected with a 12 gauge fusible link. Cheap and easy. Thanks Tony.
Another great video UT! My brother lost a sweet stock '72 Barracuda to a dashboard fire. We never found out why, but it's completely feasible, as UT explained, that a former owner replaced the fusible link with plain wire. Also related to this topic, is that manufacturers stopped using amp meter gauges as alternator amp output climbed over the years. My understanding has been that amps became too high to safely have beneath the dashboard. Chrysler Corp was known for giving customer's an amp meter and I think due to that they were somewhat of a hold out on switching over to volt meters the other manufacturer's were using. As I recall, the last use of Chrysler Corp amp meters was when they're alternators were still at 35 amps output.
Please correct me if I'm off on this.
Been there, done that.. Thanks Uncle Tony!!!!!
Good information UTG. Keep up the hard work!
Sage advice. I think ya did a great job on that paint Tony.
I had the interior wiring harness burn on my 64 Valiant in Georgetown Colorado. The alternator had failed and overcharged the system. Someone had removed the key fusable link. Fortunately I figured it out fast and emptied the fire extinguisher under the dash as my wife screamed at me. I stopped along the road and pulled the battery cable off bare handed. I saved the car. A friend sent me a under dash harness out a wrecked four door. Your emphasis on the fuseable link is right on point.
If you're looking to buy fuse links, there's a bunch of cool prices at:
amzn.to/39K4yV4
Those are wise words of wisdom . All the work you did to rebuild your classic car ,....and ,...up in smoke ! I always install quick release cable fasteners on the GM side posts . Weld air cleaner wing nuts on the ends . In an emergency you have means of removing that ground cable .FAST Good Vid U T
THANK YOU Uncle Tony!
Tony, you offer some of the best advice on CZcams and this video was one of the best. The devil is in the details. The little things will getcha. Awesome.
Great stuff unk👍👍
This is great important piece of video that has not been covered by many u tuber 's . And also proves Tony cares about your car not just his .
Sonny in life you always must be well grounded!!! There's a meaning to that saying!!! Always clean your grounds! Have a good day 😘
Nice paint!! Looks clean!!
Thanks for this Tony. I have never checked my 1970 Z28's fuse links. Not a Mopar I know... but nearly irreplaceable and wouid hate to lose it like that!
My dad purchased a 1980 D150. Loved it, I learned to drive in it. It wasn't many years before the electrical system went nuts. Easily repairable back then because the correct parts were available but everything took turns on it. A few years ago I purchased a 79 PW. I've never seen a fried up harness like it in my life. The more I dug into it the more I found burned. The previous owner spent thousands trying to repair it. Unless you're going for all original show quality on one rewire it, update the charging and ignition system and even loose the old ammeter.
Was originally going to leave a smartass comment because of the title. Nope not this time, fire was involved. Glad you two made it home safe, and the car too.
Damn good info. Just looked at my Camaro's alternator wire going to the battery and it does not have one. Will be ordering one now. Thank you Uncle T.
On your Camaro it goes from the battery cable post on the starter up to the main harness.
Hell yes. I just re-did the harness on my 76 Dodge van. Soldered all of the bulkhead, bypassed the ammeter, installed a circuit breaker and a new fuse block! Works like a charm
Good job, Tony, you are doing a good thing. I know for sure what you are talking about.
Awesome Uncle Tony《☆》That's one problem I never had on either my 68 Barracuda or my 73 Dart sport🤓👍🏾Hoping it never happens but Thanks for sharing :*: Greetings from⛾Florida🤳my friend🤓🗣🔊☮✌👍🏾
🚔💥😵👉😢😢🥉😖🥶💖😂👮♂️👮♂️🥵🏍🍆🍆🍆🍆🍆
Dude. Thank you for the informative video. Electric can seem a black art. You make it real.
Great video, as always. How about a follow up (‘cause you have all this free time!) on where to install a link and proper sizing of the link vs stock wire gauge?
GREAT reminder, Uncle Tony!
you're a gem.
Indeed I've never heard of a fusable link
Great Information as always..
Thanks for sharing!
Uncle Tony, this is a much needed video! I’m chasing down a dead circuit on my 97 S10 that is keeping the HVAC from getting power. There is nothing at the fuse block at all. I found out about fusible links by chasing down this bad wire. I still haven’t found it and am about to pull the dash to find it. But thanks again for the Video!
You're barking up the wrong tree chasing fusible links for that issue. Anyway The heater/AC fuse in that truck is powered from the ignition switch which is common to fail. So head to the ignition switch and begin your diagnosis there. The only thing a fusible link has to do with the HVAC is the high speed blower position.
Incidentally, there are no fusible links placed inside the passenger compartment on any vehicle for what should be obvious reasons. Fire.
BERPSU1 thanks for the tip. I probably didn’t say it correctly. I found out about fusible links researching where to chase wires. I didn’t know about them until recently. I’ll head to the ignition switch and start there. Thanks!
That's why I always bypassed the AMP meter on the engine side and ran a volt meter.
I actually prefer an amp gauge to a volt gauge. Better information.
That's what I did. If you upgrade your alternator, you have higher current going thru the firewall bulkhead and a better chance of smoking stuff
Not a bad idea, but if one wants an ammeter, there is a better way. Mount that resistor (called a shunt resistor) under the hood, in the best place, electrically and mechanically, and then run the "voltmeter wires" to the gauge. That way, all that current isn't going into the car to go through the ammeter and then back out again.
My boss' old Dodge van had a bad ammeter connection in the dash, and the damn thing would always stop running at the worst times.
@@excavatoree That's a good idea and there is a thread about that on forabodiesonly.com.
@@colemanadamson5943 Same here. I like to know what my charging rate is. My Jeep already had a voltmeter as part of the factory gauge package, then I added a 100-amp ammeter (it has a 100-amp alternator).
Very important video! THX!
Wiring a car is like taking out the girl you don't bring home to mom, you NEVER forego the protection!
Pretty ironic after the announcement of the latest video series “ driving classic cars “. Thanks UTG, off to a great start LOL
On older cars during an electrical upgrade like dual cooling fans or more, I install ANL fuses used mostly in the audio world but found on new cars and trucks. 100 amp to starter, 100 amp to alternator, ground wire like a 4/0 to the block. The fuse links are mostly 3, fuse box, ignition switch and key. Some have four but install a 40 amp in a distribution block one at a time. With an amp clamp, find what circuits it operates and turn everything on with the engine running. Full field the alternator and test current. If 35-38 amps, go 10 amps higher so it is changed to 50. Next maybe 30 amps, another 40 amp. Allowing for in-rush current and heat from under hood. Fuses are heat detectors not amperage detectors.
DK, ASE master tech since 78
Great point. Myself had forgotten about those.
I’m glad yourself learned something new, lol.
I’ve been going through the exact same things on my 72 duster. Stock amp meter gauge melted so I bypassed it. I installed a new engine harness awhile back, and a few weeks ago the alt wire burnt up the fusible link and started burning the bulkhead connector. Luckily I caught it before it could get bad. I plan on re wiring the alternator to by pass the bulk head connector and the factory amp gauge and just run a aftermarket volt gauge. And I’ll be adding fusible link of course
You got that right got me thinking about adding some if nessary jut one on my pos. Batt. Harness
Its that $5.00 part that can save the day, yet many will replace them with a butt connector. I enjoy you level of common sense Tony. Keep fighting the good fight!!
Excellent PSA UT!
Thanks for the explanation uncle Tony. I've been working on a 72 dodge w100 and been trying to figure out why someone rewired the charging system poorly. They removed the voltage regulator, disconnected the amp gauge, and went with a "1 wire set up" and installed new wires without the fusible link. I know what to lookout for now and what to do to do it right.
Thank you Uncle Tony!
👏 not only an excellent video that can save a car, but possibly save a life as well ⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐
Has this happen on my bronco about two weeks ago alternator shorted out melted the plug and burnt the fuse able link luckily I had an extra alternator and found the wiring harness at the parts store replaced the link and everything is good now crazy how you just made this video lol
Great tip for those who don't have a clue. Glad you saved your car Tony!
Keep feathering it brotherman🐔🔥
The one on my Dart just got corroded and opened up one day. I bought a larger guage fusible link bulk wire and replaced it. I think the original was 20 amp and I stepped up to 40 amp wire. It is the last line of defense before a electrical fire from a dead short, otherwise it's the wiring that has to burn open to kill the circuit. I also added a 100 amp alternater from a cop diplomat and so far haven't melted anything down but the amp gauge is sure active on first start.
In fact many times the gauge will go bad and you'll have all kinds of issues with headlights and the ignition not working right till you replace or bypass it. A shop here actually ran a hot bypass wire on the 71 Scamp my buddy had that issue with because they couldn't figure out the voltage issues it had. That fixed it but I bought the car later and replaced the Guage in the cluster and left the bypass wire because I had put a100 amp alt in it too for safety. The guage always read about half the actual charging current but everything worked well. When I run stereo wiring I always put a 20 amp fuse in line right after the hot hookup too and it has saved my stereo and car a couple of times when wires cut and shorted.
@Lassi Kinnunen like several have said it will take a bit of over amperage compared to what it's rated at so little glitch doesn't blow it up and stop you dead. I would also add from experience that the fuse and holders can get corroded with enough time depending on the weather proof quality of the holder. Of course I think modern blade fuses hold better but it still happens. A fuse equivalent would probably be a slow blow version as they'll take minor spikes without popping.
Uncle Tony, sound advice. It’s a 20 dollar replacement part that can leave your stranded. Trust me. Been there. Also a spare ballast resistor, and wheel bearings will leave your when you need them most. I would like to see you discuss how the Ammeter bulkhead bypass works on Mopars, as well as how to limp your car home when it is stuck on the side of the road. Jumper wires and basic troubleshooting. Valuable stuff for the glovebox.
Ditch the fusible link and just put a maxi fuse buss on anything this old.
Thanks for the PSA Uncle Tony!
The 90 cummins I had wore a hole in the harness against the firewall over the booster.
Had a fuse panel for the headlight relays, added a fuse and bypassed the ignition fusible link. Ran it for 10 years with minimal trouble, new owner pulled the new fss and added a shutoff cable, probably just needed a fuse. Likely drilled the uncracked dash, too.
1968 Dodge Coronet 318 alternator went bad. I had a good alternator from a 1974 Challenger... Rewired it from a schematic from the interweb so I could use this alternator... This keeps your main power under the hood... Also had 2 add fusible link purchased fusible link at AutoZone in a roll with the correct value that it called for... This is good for safety on a old car with old wiring
Tony dropped another cigarette... Blamed it on the link
Paint Ur daily like a Fire Truck you should expect to be going to a fire. Seriously.. great vid Tony. Best to you and yours.
great advise.
great info!
Really Cool Video....yep the old days
I was driving my 66 Wildcat today when I found that the radio would cut out intermittently, for about 5 minutes. I pulled up to a light and the car just stalled, nothing. I actually checked the fusible llink right away (techie). It was good,.... hmm... what now. Battery has power, no power to the inside. Posts are tight and have grease to stop corrosion. Now what? On a lark, I pulled on the negative cable and got a click. Another 2 minutes to run a screw into the post where the cable goes in and back in business. Drive to Canadian Tire, buy new cable. Don't mess around with wiring!
Battery cables are the trickyest, I think people just overlook them because of the bulkyness and the usually nice looking colored jacket they have. I have been making my own out of purchased high quality componants for the last bit, too many chinesium premade cables around anymore.
wow. 66 wildcat are pretty rare. my dad had a beauty. glad to see some still rolling.
Those things are great.
I used em like the diagram shows for the mad enterprises start-em-up kit.
No no no Nanette, dont buy the kit, use the diagram and you'll see what you need.
All I needed was some fuse links and a Ford solenoid and now the cable to the starter is only hot when cranking and the fuse links run the accessories like stock.
Electricity is pretty cool , and it's fast.
I bet it's faster than your car 😄
The often forgotten fusible link saved an '88 Jeep Wrangler I owned from burning one time. Thanks for the reminder!
Very helpful video
I guess I better figure how to do this.....or check to see I have one installed. Yikes!
Thanks for the heads up!
Makes me wonder how many "just finished" cars we've seen on the web burning that were missing one. Thanks for sharing
Thank You.
Hey Uncle Tony's Garage!!, back then when they built those cars!, they ACTUALLY took pride in building and putting in REAL safety!!, for car and driver!!!👍👍😬😬😬
Old fusible links are often the problem when all of a sudden the starter won't work, headlights just stop, and so on. There used to be a book called 'how to wire your hot rod' available at most swap meets that gave alot of information on fusible links and proper use.
Glad you made it home safe . Seen some big dummies aka Fred Sanford quote
Good info to know for people learning older cars/trucks. I will stress one point heavily to anybody with a classic car or newer. GET A FIRE EXTINGUISHER, this can also limit the chances of your car burning to the ground.
Glad your safe and got home ok! pay attention kids! tony knows electrical wiring!
Your car is acting all Angelic. Even has a halo.
Wow thank you!!
I have a 54 chevy 5700 coe with a 12 valve cummins. I rewired it with a Painless kit. On a long drive,the alternator started overcharging. At one point I got worried about the battery and, while the truck was running pulled off the cable from aternator to batt. About 4 miles down the road, cab fills with smoke! Since it was still spinning and creating its own exite-er signal,(i guess) it sent full juice through a little aluminum resistance wire that ran through the harness (trying to remember what that went to, but i replaced it with a diode and real wire)
Fried ome of those in my 91 caprice. Found out after i sold it to somebody. It was mint too!!
Thank you.