I remember as a child, that I would come home and drop my bike on the front lawn and you know what, the next morning it was still there!!. today I would not put my coffee down without keeping an eye on it. This will let me sleep a little better in the hotel with the car sitting unattended.
That looked like one of those"easy" jobs that requires you to expand your superlative vocabulary. Very clever solutions for the various hiccups encountered along the way. Good job! I'm looking forward to your wiring videos, that's an area on my project that will require particular creativity, so all the outside the box ideas I can find will be appreciated. Great Video, Thanks!
Appreciate it. Orange-peally is my word of the day now :-). yes I have to either buy a new harness or figure out how to unwrap, add wire and rewrap the old harness. the key will be a full inspection of the wiring to make sure there are no cracks. safety first
Great idea to help protect the investment of all your hard work you have put into your 68 Mustang Convertible! We will be looking into doing this on our 64 1/4 Convertible as well as our "new" 69 Thunderbird 429 project also! We have been following your progress since first seeing you on Jo Daddy's Garage Viewer's Projects and the Live Streams! You have been such a inspiration to us that we can tackle the restoration of our Mustang as well!!! Thank you for posting these informative videos and keep them coming! Big Thumbs up!!!
They work well , still have to install the other side. BUT i plan to measure the location on the hood and work down not up. I think it is way more important that the hood locks are mirrors of each other on the hood rather than risk I miss the location working from the bottom up.
@@68mustangrestoration34 Agree! I have been working on a 66 mustang I drove in high school and am just starting to get into the body work after replacing all the rust from storage of 20 years in MN barn. But I have much experience so if you need anything feel free to ask. I live in Iowa. Be great have another brain to help things through. Been following Barry for years and he a big inspiration to get things done right so that for sure ;)
Another great video, Wally. Great idea too. I’m running pins on my 65. Struggle to get the pin to match the hood as far as the angle goes when closing. Love the idea of driving the car anywhere/everywhere. Keep up the good work.
yes, same problem here, the pin is straight BUT the hood closes on an arc. The good news is that I only have to pass through the first layer of the hood as the locking mechanism does not pierce the top of the hood. but alignment is key in both cases. I will keep a 9/16 wrench in the car in case it ever goes out of alignment so I can release the pins manually.
YES...but once the assembly is sandwiched between the top and bottom of hood there is a rubber gasket that is compressed that provides a friction fit and since there is NO resistance to turning the key it does not rotate the entire assembly . I understand if the key was hard to turn it might rotate the entire thing but I have had no issues. I did locktite the nut so it would not back off Now the cylinder does have a flat spot (key) but I had no idea how to cut a hole with a flat side without filing like crazy
What brand hood lock did you buy? I noticed that on amazon there have been a lot of complaints for the aluminum pin locks. I can't seem to find any stainless steel pin locks. I want to avoid rust, and any stripping of the bolt.
I have not looked at these for a while but it is obvious they are not stainless. The locks are chromed with cast mechanism. The trim rings are anodized aluminum which I polished so they are bare. These were only 35.00 so that would account for construction. Anything closer to stainless was 200.00 plus. Not sure if part number is valid anymore after so long. X002HNY3FR. Best of luck in finding something that works for you. EDIT-- here is a better description on Amazon "Acouto Engine Hood Cover Lock"
@@68mustangrestoration34 Thanks, they have a very low rating on Amazon, too low for me, and I asked a question about them, and was told 'just don't buy them'. So I'm making my own (DIY) hood lock....hope it comes out ok. I had a 66 & 67 Mustang...sold them both, but loved them both.
I did not look at that...hopefully since they will not be Subjected to normal driving they will be OK. Basically I can swap them out if necessary. Send feedback on home build curious how you approach it
@@68mustangrestoration34 I am going with a tubular lock (1.5" long from amazon, basically a cabinet lock) and tubular aluminum as the mount (or you could use steel) that the lock drops inside of. I'll cut an L shape into the base (tubular aluminum) for the lock flange to drop into and turn into a locking position. Bend the flange into a L shape, rather than have it just flat. I have large steel washers & rubber washers for mounting the tubular lock on the hood, just like the hood locks on amazon. I want to lock the cam body into place. The weakness of these types of locks, I think, is that unless the cam is secure, the lock can be defeated by twisting the entire lock. Maybe more of an issue with a flat key since a screw driver can be used - cram it into the key hole and twist with force, turning the whole lock and it opens. This may be harder to do with tubular keys, so I got a tubular key for extra protection. Since I have a tubular aluminum base that the tubular lock will drop into, I can make the fit tight enough so that the tubular lock won't twist when it drops in. This will provide more anti-twist than just bolting the lock to the hood really tight. That is the scoop. Reason I want this hood lock is that I want to add a kill switch to the engine compartment. I don't want someone breaking a window, popping the hood, and bypassing the kill switch - which seems pretty easy to do. Unless I really bury the kill switch, which is a pain to do.
@@jkyoft78 Well thought out, especially if it is stainless then no rust issues and using a cam eliminates the twisting of the lock. In my case I really want this as a simple deterrent. Just make it harder than the next car to break into. Now I do have an alarm with an immobilizer on it which I have not used BUT a switch to simply ground out the ignition is very effective. Stealing an old car is usually as easy as supplying power to the coil but if the negative side is grounded then no go. Hope it goes well , looking forward to hearing how it goes. You got me thinking to put mine back on now that car is painted.
Great project for our 1965 289 "C" 4spd no rust Twilight Turquoise Hardtop... Thanks to all who respond, excellent input.🏁
Great idea.
I remember as a child, that I would come home and drop my bike on the front lawn and you know what, the next morning it was still there!!. today I would not put my coffee down without keeping an eye on it. This will let me sleep a little better in the hotel with the car sitting unattended.
That looked like one of those"easy" jobs that requires you to expand your superlative vocabulary. Very clever solutions for the various hiccups encountered along the way. Good job! I'm looking forward to your wiring videos, that's an area on my project that will require particular creativity, so all the outside the box ideas I can find will be appreciated. Great Video, Thanks!
Appreciate it. Orange-peally is my word of the day now :-). yes I have to either buy a new harness or figure out how to unwrap, add wire and rewrap the old harness. the key will be a full inspection of the wiring to make sure there are no cracks. safety first
Great idea to help protect the investment of all your hard work you have put into your 68 Mustang Convertible! We will be looking into doing this on our 64 1/4 Convertible as well as our "new" 69 Thunderbird 429 project also! We have been following your progress since first seeing you on Jo Daddy's Garage Viewer's Projects and the Live Streams! You have been such a inspiration to us that we can tackle the restoration of our Mustang as well!!! Thank you for posting these informative videos and keep them coming! Big Thumbs up!!!
Great Video, well done on explanation. been thinking about these for mine too. Looking forward to the wiring!
They work well , still have to install the other side. BUT i plan to measure the location on the hood and work down not up. I think it is way more important that the hood locks are mirrors of each other on the hood rather than risk I miss the location working from the bottom up.
@@68mustangrestoration34 Agree! I have been working on a 66 mustang I drove in high school and am just starting to get into the body work after replacing all the rust from storage of 20 years in MN barn. But I have much experience so if you need anything feel free to ask. I live in Iowa. Be great have another brain to help things through. Been following Barry for years and he a big inspiration to get things done right so that for sure ;)
Found it!
Another great video, Wally. Great idea too. I’m running pins on my 65. Struggle to get the pin to match the hood as far as the angle goes when closing. Love the idea of driving the car anywhere/everywhere. Keep up the good work.
yes, same problem here, the pin is straight BUT the hood closes on an arc. The good news is that I only have to pass through the first layer of the hood as the locking mechanism does not pierce the top of the hood. but alignment is key in both cases. I will keep a 9/16 wrench in the car in case it ever goes out of alignment so I can release the pins manually.
Wally, is it possible to spin the plate / lock assembly to unlock it? Since the plate is not keyed to the hood.
YES...but once the assembly is sandwiched between the top and bottom of hood there is a rubber gasket that is compressed that provides a friction fit and since there is NO resistance to turning the key it does not rotate the entire assembly . I understand if the key was hard to turn it might rotate the entire thing but I have had no issues. I did locktite the nut so it would not back off Now the cylinder does have a flat spot (key) but I had no idea how to cut a hole with a flat side without filing like crazy
What brand hood lock did you buy? I noticed that on amazon there have been a lot of complaints for the aluminum pin locks. I can't seem to find any
stainless steel pin locks. I want to avoid rust, and any stripping of the bolt.
I have not looked at these for a while but it is obvious they are not stainless. The locks are chromed with cast mechanism. The trim rings are anodized aluminum which I polished so they are bare. These were only 35.00 so that would account for construction. Anything closer to stainless was 200.00 plus. Not sure if part number is valid anymore after so long. X002HNY3FR. Best of luck in finding something that works for you. EDIT-- here is a better description on Amazon "Acouto Engine Hood Cover Lock"
@@68mustangrestoration34 Thanks, they have a very low rating on Amazon, too low for me, and I asked a question about them, and was told 'just don't buy them'. So I'm making my own (DIY) hood lock....hope it comes out ok. I had a 66 & 67 Mustang...sold them both, but loved them both.
I did not look at that...hopefully since they will not be Subjected to normal driving they will be OK. Basically I can swap them out if necessary. Send feedback on home build curious how you approach it
@@68mustangrestoration34 I am going with a tubular lock (1.5" long from amazon, basically a cabinet lock) and tubular aluminum as the mount
(or you could use steel) that the lock drops inside of.
I'll cut an L shape into the base (tubular aluminum) for the lock flange to drop into and turn into a locking position. Bend the flange into a L shape,
rather than have it just flat.
I have large steel washers & rubber washers for mounting the tubular lock on the hood, just like the hood locks on amazon.
I want to lock the cam body into place. The weakness of these types of locks, I think, is that unless the cam is secure, the lock can be defeated by
twisting the entire lock. Maybe more of an issue with a flat key since a screw driver can be used - cram it into the key hole and twist with force, turning
the whole lock and it opens. This may be harder to do with tubular keys, so I got a tubular key for extra protection.
Since I have a tubular aluminum base that the tubular lock will drop into, I can make the fit tight enough so that the tubular lock won't twist when it drops in. This will provide more anti-twist than just bolting the lock to the hood really tight.
That is the scoop.
Reason I want this hood lock is that I want to add a kill switch to the engine compartment. I don't want someone breaking a window, popping the hood,
and bypassing the kill switch - which seems pretty easy to do. Unless I really bury the kill switch, which is a pain to do.
@@jkyoft78 Well thought out, especially if it is stainless then no rust issues and using a cam eliminates the twisting of the lock. In my case I really want this as a simple deterrent. Just make it harder than the next car to break into. Now I do have an alarm with an immobilizer on it which I have not used BUT a switch to simply ground out the ignition is very effective. Stealing an old car is usually as easy as supplying power to the coil but if the negative side is grounded then no go. Hope it goes well , looking forward to hearing how it goes. You got me thinking to put mine back on now that car is painted.