1979-2004 Mustang Budget Autocross 2: Solid Rear Axle Suspension Upgrades + Reviews
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- čas přidán 23. 07. 2024
- Tired of fighting “quadra-bind”? Looking for more grip and less wheel hop as you push your 79-04 Mustang at autocross events? A few inexpensive mods can make a big difference in how your horse hooks up. This video showcases and reviews Steeda Steel Upper & Lower Rear Control Arms, BMR Spherical Differential Housing Bearings, and KYB Quad Shocks.
It also details why you shouldn’t remove your Quad Shocks, and why the best Rear Sway Bar for your car might already be on your car.
If you’re sick of going sideways and spinning out as you attack the cones, these mods will help keep your pony planted. - Auta a dopravní prostředky
Finally a video dedicated to mustang handling instead of drag racing
My hope is to make this channel a great resource for people looking to turn their Mustangs into corner-carving autocross cars.
@@warhorseracing as someone looking to buy a 96-98 cobra, these help out a lot, I live in some twisty bluff areas so handling is more important to me than straight line, gears can do plenty for me but suspension is crucial
@@dakota5041 I'm glad the videos are helpful. I hope you find a Cobra soon and get it out on an autocross course.
@@warhorseracing maybe, shoulder might not be able to hold up to it for a while, but definitely want a raw reliable back road cruiser, always loved the 32v sound
Just found you through humble mechanic. I know this video is four years old, but the archive of information you have on your channel to make these things turn is incredible. I really appreciate the effort you put into dispersing this info. I'm learning so much for an sn95 build I want to do after I finish my 350z.
I had an awesome time helping Charles and Paul with their Mustang. Thanks for checking out my channel! My goal is to create a comprehensive resource for people looking to make their 79-04 Mustangs more capable. If you ever have any questions about your upcoming build, please ask.
Stumbled across your channel because I just bought a 2003 Mustang GT with a manual. I enjoy carving the corners just like you and I was trying to figure out how to make the Mustang handle better. I will use your advice. Thank you
These cars can handle really well with the right mods. If you ever have any questions, please ask. I'm always happy to help.
exactly what i was looking for!! not interested in drag racing. want to take my fox to button willow. this guide is perfect!
Thanks for checking out my video! If you have any questions, please ask. I'm happy to help.
Been to a few autocross events in my 97 cobra, and I use your videos to help with making my car handle better, and lower my times. Thank you for the great info!
I'm glad my videos are helpful. I've always liked the 94-98 Cobras. If you ever have any questions about autocrossing your Mustang, please ask. I'm always happy to help.
Thank for all the videos!
In addition to the subframe connectors, I've installed MM torque arm and panhard bar to keep the rear end in check.
I know several people who use the MM TA/PB setup, and they are very pleased with the performance. There are many great options to make these cars handle well on an autocross course.
@@warhorseracing Is it possible to make my Mustang GT handle good with posi rear end? I’m pretty sure it’s a locked differential. They’re great for launching, but I’m always afraid to accelerate hard in the corners without spinning out.
@@angelgjr1999 A Limited-Slip Differential, sometimes referred to as "posi" and "Traction-Lok" is great for autocross. If it's a locked differential that doesn't allow any slip at all, it won't be ideal for autocross. What year is your car? Most likely, if you have an OEM Mustang GT 8.8" differential and it hasn't been modified, you have a Limited-Slip Differential. A fundamental part of autocross is learning how to time your throttle inputs, so you don't go sideways or spin.
@@warhorseracing It’s a 2003 Mustang GT. Previous owners installed 4.10 gears. It also has: BBK cold air intake with 75 mm throttle body plenum, underdrive pullys, shorty headers with x pipes, flowmasters mufflers. I’ve also upgraded the shocks to koni shocks and struts, she has 285 nitto tires on the back, upgraded braking with drilled rotors and ceramic brake pads.
She’s old but it’ll still keep up with 5.7 chargers, these mustangs are pretty light so even with less than 320 hp they can keep up with mopars that weigh 1000 lbs more.
I don’t know if the diff is fully locked or not, the wheels lock up pretty quickly when I spin the wheel. I just know my mechanic said it has a posi, he was wondering if I installed it I said no.
@@angelgjr1999 A 2003 Mustang GT would have come with a Traction-Lok diff (limited-slip). If your mechanic correctly identified the diff as a "posi", it is a Limited-Slip Differential. I can't be 100% sure, but it would be unlikely that someone would put a locked differential on a street car. With 4.10 gears, you will be more likely to go sideways if your throttle inputs are too aggressive or too early in a corner. It's something you will have to drive around out on course, or you might want to consider 3.55 rear gears.
Thank you. Im looking to firm up my 94 gt suspension. This info helps.
I'm glad I just watched this. I'm putting together a 89 for the sole purpose of autocross .
Thanks for checking out the video. If you have any questions about setting up your 89 for autocross, I'm happy to help.
Great video
Thank you! If you ever have any questions, please ask. I'm happy to help.
Nice video! I love the new edge mustangs and in fact own an 01 Cobra, I hate being told I can’t corner with my car, so I’m going to change that.
Thank you! I have built and autocrossed IRS-swapped New Edge cars, too. I'm happy to help if you have any questions.
Warhorse Racing Do you have any other social media’s?
@@Nazareth69420 As of now, just CZcams and forums: Stangnet.com, SN95Forums.com and Corral.net.
More great work! And this time from how the other half live. :-)
Hey Warhorse - love the videos. Been watching for a few years while slowly getting my 99 GT corner savvy. I’m to the point where I want to replace/strengthen the rear UCAs & LCAs. Unfortunately, with Steeda no longer making the adjustable sway bar I’m to a cross roads with getting the MM Panhard or not. Would you recommend going Steeda LCAs with the MM Panhard or going full Steeda LCA, UCA, plus spherical diff bushings? The price difference is minimal and I’m just trying to get the most out of the rear end without going IRS. I didn’t really want to do a torque arm with the Panhard since the car is mostly just a mountain enjoyer and sometimes autoX and amateur track day vehicle.
Thanks! I always try to provide balanced advice when it comes to suspension mods. A PB is not my first choice for 79-04 SRA Mustangs, but I know several people who use/used a PB on their autocross cars, and they've been very happy with the results (and their cars are fast). I believe all of them use a PB/TA combo to get the most out of that setup. As you've seen in my videos, I found success with a different setup. Without knowing your whole setup, I can say generally that you want to get the car neutral. composed, and move the limit of traction further out. If you have an OEM front sway bar, you can install a larger 25mm rear sway bar to get the car neutral. Although it's not adjustable and you can't fine tune it like the discontinued Steeda rear sway bar, a larger rear sway bar is a good alternative. If you have adjustable shocks & struts, you can use those to fine-tune the handling. Steeda UCAs/LCAs and spherical UDH bushings, along with the larger rear sway bar and adjustable shocks & struts will make the car better everywhere you plan to use it. If you don't have adjustable shocks & struts, I would still suggest going with a larger rear sway bar, the Steeda UCA/LCA combo and spherical UDH bushings. If you have any more questions, I'm always happy to help.
@@warhorseracing Thanks for the detailed and helpful response!!
First of all. I'm very glad to have stumbled across your videos. They are well thought out, delivered and give some real world feed back as opposed to most I've watched. I don't autocross a lot but I enjoy it when the events are near me. I hear a lot of conflicting info about aftermarket upper control arms, most say for my mostly daily driver application, don't upgrade as they will bind and/or destroy torque boxes. You say the opposite and to me are putting them through much tougher miles. Curious to your thoughts on this?
Thanks! I try to provide honest, unbiased, real-world reviews of parts to help people make informed decisions. For UCAs, the type of bushing is really important when it comes to preventing Torque Box damage. I know for sure that Steeda's 3-piece bushings work well and don't hurt the Torque Boxes. I've used them on 2 autocross cars with great results. Most companies use a 2-piece bushing that doesn't do as good of a job protecting the Torque Boxes when the suspension articulates. Spherical bushings articulate more, but they can put more stress on Torque Boxes. For street use, rubber bushings are fine (just make sure they are still in good shape). But, if you do plan on doing any performance driving on a regular basis, I would recommend Steeda UCAs with 3-piece poly bushings. I hope that helps. And I hope you decide to give autocross a try someday; it's a lot of fun!
@@warhorseracing it's been a couple years but I use to get out one weekend a season where they would run two events, a Saturday and Sunday event. Covid and closed boarders will make it hard to get to any in northern Michigan for me this year
If you could only replace just the upper or the lower control arms, which would you do? In this hypothetical scenario, you can replace the bushings in the other arms/diff housing, but you can only replace one set of control arms.
That is a very interesting question. I would go with a good set of upper control arms with 3-piece poly bushings. I'm always looking for more composure at the limit of traction; good UCAs will make the car feel much better during rapid changes of direction. I would still recommend spherical bushings in the upper differential housing location in that scenario.
Man, you got me thinking now....
This is Keionte from the forum. The one that's getting the IRS swap...
IRS vs. SRA is a big debate. You can build a very capable SRA Mustang for autocross. I know many people doing very well with SRA Mustangs. The trick is to get the right setup, and to dial it in.
@@warhorseracing I see...
I already had my heart set on doing the swap. I purchased it and just need to make sure I got all I need to install it.
However, you make a very compelling argument about dialing in the SRA
@@GaryLamb2020 My goal for this channel is to show people that any Mustang, with any setup, can be a competitive autocross car. I've been able to win in SRA cars and IRS cars, and I'm far from the fastest driver out there. When modified correctly (and not necessarily in the usual ways), these cars are really good at carving corners. An IRS swap is a great upgrade. I just want to make sure people without an IRS know their cars can compete as well.
@@warhorseracing I understand completely. Just wish I came across your channel sooner.
I'd probably would have still gone with the IRS, but I would have had a much better argument to stick with my SRA and may e would had took 500 to beef up the SRA before swapoing.
But, I already have the IRS paid for and I'm sure I'll be more than happy with it.
I'm going to decide on K-memebers and coilovers this weekend.
Since I cant install the IRS until I get somewhere to do it, i might as well knock out the front.
@@GaryLamb2020 You won't be disappointed with the IRS. Once they are rebuilt with better bushings, they work really well. As you may have seen in my videos, none of my cars use coil overs or K-members. I'm only considering K-members now because my new class has a lower weight limit. You can get these cars to handle really well without coil overs and a K-member. Are you getting coil overs for the front and rear before installing the IRS? It's worth mentioning that the IRS requires different rear shocks than the SRA.
I'm wondering if you could help me out. I've had a 01 mustang gt for about 3 years now and the entire time I've been chasing a loose steering condition. the center just feels dead and it gets more pronounced the faster i go. So far I've replaced steering shaft with Maximum motorsports metal shaft, new rack and pinion with new inner and outer tie rods, rack and pinion bushings, lower control arms, lowering springs, caster camber plates, sway bar bushings and end links. I've heard one thing I haven't tried is the aluminum rack bushings. Would that really be it? I'm starting to think that my "new" rack and pinion might have the same issue. in that case will I need to source a Cobra rack? I'm at my wits end lol
This is often a tricky problem to diagnose. Is your Hydroboost system functioning properly? Steering rack bushings can play a role in your issue. I would consider Global West Delrin steering rack bushings; they're a good option. Contrary to what has been widely published/posted, there isn't much difference between 99-04 Mustang steering racks. Even MM employees have posted that their information about 99-04 steering racks is incorrect. I can tell you that I hunted down and paid up for a Ford remanufactured Terminator Cobra steering rack to replace the one in my 2000 GT and it felt exactly the same as the rack that came out of the car. Was your old steering rack OEM, a Ford replacement or an aftermarket replacement? Is your new rack a Ford remanufactured unit or an aftermarket remanufactured unit? The reason I ask is that some remanufactured steering racks have a bad reputation when it comes to steering feel.
does the 650 spring rate be too much for the rear, or should i stick with the 250 that comes in the Steeda spring kit? can i use 315s on the rare with the quad shocks you mention still in place? what adjustable shock do you recommend? I am not doing an irs swap. 2004 mustang v6. what is a good alternative to tokico struts, front and rear. Tokico doesn't exist anymore for shocks. thanks for your time.
The answer really depends on the other mods you've made to the car that increase NVH. If you don't plan on using your car for performance driving, you might want to consider using progressive springs. They'll be more comfortable for daily driving. Adjustable shocks and struts also help with ride quality. My cars are only used for autocross, and they have a lot of other mods that influence the ride quality. I don't think the Ford C springs alone would be too harsh, but I would suggest riding in a car that has them installed before you decide.
@@warhorseracing i haven't made any mods yet. Im starting with suspension, wheels, then brakes (for safety on turns mainly, and wheel hop). Im only planning to add front and rear sway bars. I'm not ready to do the welding stuff you did in the middle of the frame. I really want to build this as a show car that can perform as an autocross if i get the time and opportunity to compete in between coaching boxing along with my athletes who like this sort of thing. I favor handling mods than horse power mods. This project is more to expose youths to something different. one of them might catch the bug and change the car world.
@@sethlover1211 It's probably a good idea to check out my "Mustang Autocross Mod Myths" video, and my "ThoroughbRED Part 4: HOW TO ADJUST YOUR AUTOCROSS SUSPENSION" video. Getting these cars to handle well relies on several specific mods. Some of the mods on the market will actually make the car handle worse. It's important to make sure you know the impact every mod you make will have on handling. For example: A larger front sway bar will ADD understeer to a car that already has understeer. Choosing a front sway bar is the last mod you want to make, based on other mods. A larger rear sway bar will ADD oversteer to help balance the "factory-installed" understeer. That helps get the car closer to neutral handling. My advice would be to start with the mods that get the car neutral: adjustable shocks & struts, and a 25mm rear sway bar. You can install the springs at this point too. Just doing those mods, and making sure all of your rubber bushings are in good shape, will make your car handle better. It's also a good idea to pick the SCCA class you want to run in at events, because that will determine what mods you can make.
I’m setting up a 90 Lincoln Mark VII LSC for autocross. I have CHE upper and lower control arms, but the Mark VII never came with quad shocks. I’m planning on driving the car with the 4 link setup for the time being, but do you think it would make more sense adding quad shocks, or doing the “poor mans 3 link?” Given that I’m going to have to redo the rear end of the car eventually anyways I’m not opposed to either setup.
That's a very cool project! I've never used the PM3L, mainly because I never felt like my setup would benefit from it. I'm not the fastest driver out there, but I push my car pretty hard. It feels really composed at the limit. I've heard good and bad things about the PM3L, but I haven't seen a lot of "autocross-specific" reviews of the PM3L. That tells me there are better options. I know the quad shocks help on Mustangs, but I can't say for sure if they'll improve your Mark VII. Is it a common mod for those cars? Do you have a Panhard bar? Have you removed the air suspension? What other mods have you done to the rear suspension? And, what tendency of the car are you trying to change?
@@warhorseracing I’ve actually never seen a mark VII with quad shocks. This car still has air springs but my ‘89 has been converted to springs. Both have the same rear-steer feeling, but admittedly the ‘90 feels a LOT tighter than the 89. That being said the spring car is on factory bushings while the air ride car has CHE control arms with poly lower bushings and spherical uppers. It also has BC adjustable shocks from an sn95 coilover kit.
I’m mainly interested in seeing how easily push the current setup into binding at this point. More than likely I’ll drive the car this season as is but I’m just kinda getting a feel for what I can do moving forward.
@@ToggleSwitch13 My first question when thinking about mods is, "What am I asking the car to do that it can't do?" Does the rear end feel "nervous" at speed in the straights? Entering corners? Exiting corners under power? The answers to those questions will steer you toward the right mods. There are major differences between your two cars that will impact handling. Bushings play a big role (especially if yours are stock). Are spherical upper differential housing bushings available for your car?
Isn't it already IRS
What are you thoughts on adding a Panhard bar to this setup?
The parts in this video build on the mods I detailed in my first "Budget Autocross" video: Adjustable Shock & Struts and a Steeda Adjustable Rear Sway Bar. If you choose to run a Panhard bar, you wouldn't use the Steeda Adjustable Rear Sway Bar. If you're autocrossing your car, the first suspension mod I would make would be Adjustable Shocks & Struts (before choosing a sway bar/Panhard bar). As for the Panhard bar, Maximum Motorsports suggests using the factory Upper Control Arms with rubber bushings when installing their Panhard bar, but they do state that an Upper Control Arm with a 3-piece bushing will work. So, you could use the MM Panhard bar with the mods in this video. Having said that, a Maximum Motorsports Panhard bar (which is one of the best on the market) costs around $400. In all honesty, I have personally never used one, but a few of the drivers I autocross with have the MM Panhard bar on their 1979-2004 Mustangs. They have all elected to use a Torque Arm in addition to the Panhard bar (roughly another $500). The Steeda Adjustable Rear Sway bar costs around $150. In my experience, the performance of the Steeda bar is as good (and often better) under autocross conditions.
My lowered 03 mustang gt has ford lowering b springs and orange koni shocks. I need to have sand bags in the trunk to keep it down. I hit bumps and it feels horrible. It tramlines and handles horrible. The setup is on the newer side also. Feels sketchy when hitting bumps. It sucks
Unfortunately, most non-adjustable aftermarket shocks and struts are stiffer than OEM parts. I used the Tokico HP (blue) shocks and struts and had the same issue. If they are brand new, they might soften up a bit. But, for autocross, adjustable shocks and struts are the best option. I run the Ford Racing C springs in my 1992 GT and my 2000 GT (now just up front on the 2K GT), and they work really well; not too hard, not too soft. The tramlining could be the result of a bad alignment or really wide tires up front. The 315s on the front of my 2000 GT and 2004 V6 suffer from tramlining a lot.
i just bought
Bilstein B36-2149 Axle Wrap Gas Shock Absorber for the quad shock replacement. looking to buy 3590.320 Eibach ANTI-ROLL-KIT (Both Front and Rear Sway Bars). not sure if the rear sway bar will work since none of your videos specify it. you mentioned adjustable rear sway bars in passing. will this kit work?
The 3590.320 Eibach Kit is for 99-04 IRS Cobra Mustangs. It will NOT fit a solid rear axle car. What year is your car? And, how deep into the suspension mods do you plan to go? Knowing the answers to those questions will help. You mentioned wanting to do suspension, wheels, and brakes. But, there are many levels of those mods. The important thing to note is that you don't have to make many (or any) mods to your car to start autocrossing. But, certain mods will help eliminate the "factory-installed" flaws that make these cars harder to drive at the limit. If you don't plan on adding chassis bracing, and you don't plan on running coil overs, the FIRST mod you want to make is installing a set of adjustable shocks & struts. That will give you some measure of control over understeer and oversteer. The Steeda adjustable rear sway bar is covered in my first "Budget Autocross" video. It allows you to add oversteer by tightening the end links. It has since been discontinued. While it doesn't allow for adjustment, installing a larger rear sway bar (25mm) adds oversteer to help balance out the car's tendency to understeer from the factory. Several companies offer 25mm rear sway bars for solid rear axle Mustangs. As I mentioned in a previous response, adding a larger front sway bar will add understeer to a car that already suffers from understeer. Increasing the size of your front sway should only be done after you've decided on other mods (because those mods will determine if you'll benefit from a larger front sway bar). It's also a good idea to determine which SCCA class you want to run in. I would suggest starting in Street Category. I have videos that cover the Street Category rules and the authorized Street Category mods I would make.
@@warhorseracing 2004 v6. I only want to do bolt ons for now. once my athlete finishes mechanic school, I will encourage him to practice some of the welding stuff to stiffen the frame like you did from stiffler, and have him take the lead in mentoring the other youths who show an interest. for suspension, i want to stay under $2k, and avoid cutting or swapping such an irs for now. I will do adjustable shocks, camber/caster, similar spring setup you have for drivability. I dont mind slamming it, but prefer to have the fattest tires i can fit without doing much mods. you mentioned 315s all the way around, so i am following your blueprint even though i would prefer 335s in the rear. I will have my student take it racing once corona lifts so he can see the results. and then let him explore his own ideas on the foundation I am getting from you. Some of the other boys would probably enjoy going to the track as well. I dont know anything about racing, so i am just stumbling along right now with this project. i will upgrade the bushings as well, and the control arms like you mentioned.
@@sethlover1211 It's pretty easy for just the rims and tires to get to $2k. My advice would be to do the least amount of work to get the car neutral. CC plates, springs, adj. shocks & struts, 25mm rear sway bar. If it's a V6, you can actually just install a 23mm OEM GT rear sway bar to start with. MPS Auto Salvage in GA might have one. That will be less expensive (about $50). Consider doing forward-offset A-arm bushings (poly or Del-A-Lum); they require a press to install. Slamming the car to the ground will cause you to run out of suspension travel, leading to understeer and oversteer. These cars handle better when they sit higher (especially with stock-style springs). Staggered rims and tires will add understeer, so a square setup is best. It's not hard to make these cars handle better, but it's also very easy to make them handle worse. You also don't want to make a bunch of mods before you develop a specific driving style and preferences. Your goal is to get the car reliable (replace old rubber bushings/fluids/hoses), then get it neutral and adjustable. You will be amazed by how much better the car handles with just a few properly chosen mods.
@@warhorseracing thanks for the advise. I will look into keeping it neutral.
Hi there, me again. Why do you say 98 cars need adjustable UCAs? My car is a 98 and while I haven’t ventured into auto cross just yet, I do plan to and bought BMR non adjustable UCAs. Any insight why my year requires the adjustable. Love your channel and the info you provide
Thanks! I'm glad my channel is helping. The 1997-1/2 and 1998 models have a unique upper control arm length. Unfortunately, I'm not sure why Ford made this change. I would suggest calling Steeda; they've pointed out the need for adjustable UCAs on 97-1/2 to 98 cars for years. Please post any info you get, it will help more people who have the same question.
Warhorse Racing I figured this was attributed to how Ford started changing a bunch of things around in my year. Exhausts, interior, now suspension it seems like. I’m bought the BMR non adjustable and while it seemed to bolt up I’m off on my pinion angle...like bad. I’ll go with BMR adjustable UCA and their axle bushings as you recommend and hopefully that will help sit the rear end better and correct the pinion angle. I’ll post results as soon as I can. Thanks for the reply
@@pjcustoms8508 The adjustable arms are designed to help correct the pinion angle in cars that have been lowered. That leads me to believe they will help with your issue.
So on the spherical bearings which bushing would i replace with the spherical bearing? All of them?
Other people might disagree with me on this, so it's worth getting different opinions from people who also autocross their Mustangs. On my 1992 GT, I use spherical bearings (often called a spherical bushing) in the upper differential housing location. You can see more details in my "ThoroughbRED Part 3: SUSPENSION UPGRADES" video (and the companion "3A" video). I wouldn't use spherical bearings/bushings on the chassis side of the UCAs/LCAs. I don't use them on the axle side of the LCAs, but some people do.
@@warhorseracing oh ok thank you alot 💯♥️ im trying to remove wheel hop building a driftbuild 96 Sn95
@@joesgarage2493 There are lots of different opinions/personal preferences/aftermarket company philosophies when it comes to spherical bushings in all 4 locations. I never felt like my performance was compromised by having 3-piece poly bushings on the chassis side of the rear control arms. I never had an experience out on course where I felt my rear suspension was binding (and I pushed my SRA cars pretty hard). But, I'm sure other people would disagree. And depending on their mods, they will have different experiences. MM says to use rubber bushings in the UCAs; Steeda uses 3-piece poly bushings or spherical bushings in their UCAs. Both companies are confident their approach is the best. I have not personally used the PM3L, but I've gotten mixed reviews from people who have tried it on autocross Mustangs with a Panhard bar or Watt's link. When I investigated a PM3L with a PB or WL, I got differing advice on whether or not to use spherical bushings on the chassis side. I expect the BMR spherical bushings to work well, but I actually went with J&M spherical differential housing bushings on my 1992 GT, and I've been very pleased with them. I've driven cars with and without quad-shocks, and I prefer to have the quad-shocks in place. With functioning quad-shocks, my car has more grip when launching, and when digging out of slow elements. My advice to anyone looking to improve their SRA Mustang's performance is to do exactly what you're doing: research the options, ask questions, and do some informed experimenting.
How would these mods impact daily driveability? I am looking to improve the handling of my Mach 1 but at the same time don't want the ride to become too rough/firm.
My cars are not driven daily; but they are driven to and from events, sometimes as much as 150 miles. By themselves, these mods don't add a lot of NVH. The UCAs/LCAs with 3-piece poly bushings make the rear end feel more composed and "tighter", without being jarring. The Spherical Differential Housing Bearings do add some NVH, but not as much as I expected. The Quad Shocks are usually bad on our cars, so replacing them tends to make the car feel more like it did when it was new. NVH is often made worse by how much chassis bracing you have, and how stiff your springs, shocks and struts are.
Warhorse Racing currently stock Mach 1 springs which I think are slightly lower and stiffer then GT but not by much. These videos are great and giving me lots of ideas for upgrades. I’m not trying to have the lowest car so was happy to learn going super low will have an adverse effect on things.
@@SamtheCanuck I think you'll be okay with the mods from this video. Especially if you have adjustable shocks and struts. You do have the option of using the poly differential housing bushings that come with the Steeda UCAs. I'm glad the videos are helping. If you have any more questions, feel free to ask.
The car at 9:08 had 2 sway bars is that a trick you use
The additional rear sway bar is the Steeda adjustable rear sway bar that was discontinued a few years ago. It was designed to work with your OEM rear sway bar. In my opinion, it was the best bang-for-the-buck suspension mod for 79-04 Mustangs.
@Warhorse Racing is that NCCAR in your video?
Yes. NCCAR is an amazing autocross site.
@@warhorseracing Sam and team do an awesome job keeping the facility in good order. I spend most of my time at track days with NASA Mid-atlantic with my SN95. I've enjpyed your content so far!
Sam and the team have always gone the extra mile to help the clubs that run at NCCAR put on awesome events. I'm looking forward to getting back out there for an autocross when events start back up. Thanks for checking out my videos!
what years/models have the sway bar like you use?
The 23 and 24 mm rear sway bars came on 94-04 GT models. There is a sway bar guide on LMR's website that shows the other sizes that came on other cars (some bigger, some smaller). MPS Auto Salvage usually lists the sizes of the OEM sway bars they sell on Ebay.
@@warhorseracing oh perfect i got a 00GT i got a eibach sway bar front bar off a buddy for a good price but wasnt sure what to run on the rear. thank you
@@rustieshackleford7014 Glad I could help. The larger Eibach front sway bar will add understeer (to a car that already has understeer), so you will want to make sure you have a way to compensate for that added understeer. Adjustable struts & shocks will help.
@@warhorseracing i got adjustable shock/struts, CC plates, Eibach sport line springs, solid rear upper an lowers(just watched your vid on the spherical bushings gonna get them once i get some money) an frame connectors. an i got an set of corbeau's i just need to get the mounts for them.
@@rustieshackleford7014 Great! You'll be able to use negative camber and the struts & shocks to help with understeer. That'll be a fun autocross car!