1979-2004 Mustang Budget Autocross 3: Front Suspension Upgrades + Reviews
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- čas přidán 4. 05. 2019
- If you’re autocrossing a 1979-2004 Mustang, you’ve probably been told these cars NEED a tubular K-member and Coilovers to be competitive. I hear it all the time. Don’t get me wrong, those parts make a big difference. Unfortunately, they also cost BIG BUCKS!
This video showcases and reviews parts that will improve your Front Suspension on a budget. Just swapping in some good Prothane Polyurethane A-arm, Sway Bar and Sway Bar End Link Bushings; Steeda 3-Bolt Adjustable Caster/Camber Plates; Prothane Poly Steering Rack Bushings or Maximum Motorsports Aluminum Steering Rack Bushings, and the right Steeda or OEM Sway Bar for your setup will tighten up turn-in and help keep your car composed in transitions.
These mods work with the parts I reviewed in my previous two “Budget Autocross” videos to fundamentally change the personality of your pony! - Auta a dopravní prostředky
There is a lot of info here! Thanks for that. Sn95s get no love these days.
Thanks for checking out the channel. My goal is to provide as much info as possible to help make sure these cars get the love and respect they deserve!
Thanks for the info man! Helped a lot as I've been trying to develop this chassis for better handling for a while!
I'm glad the video was helpful. These cars can do amazing things with the right mods and the right suspension settings.
Great channel dude! Subbed and can't wait for the next vid 👍
Hey Men glad I came across your channel, I have an 86 5.0 GT that my sons and I are rebuilding. We plan on trying out some scca events in our area once we are done. Keep up the videos I’m interested to see what’s next. Also I had 2001 GT with the Steeda G-Trac suspension with adjustable Tokico D-specs, I never got to run it on an autocross had to sell it.
Thanks for checking out my videos. You will have a blast autocrossing your 86 GT. These cars are really challenging to drive in stock form (which makes you a better driver), and they can be modified to suit any driving style (which makes them great for moving up in classes and competing against modern cars). All in all, I think they're the perfect autocross cars.
Well said!
Great series! A lot of great information for someone getting into the sport.
I have a 99 GT. I know many people change out the gear to get a quicker launch. Do you change or keep your stock gear ratios usually?
Andrew, most autocross courses top out at 70mph (it's a rule). So, the general theory is to choose a rear gear that allows you to run up to (or as close to) 70mph in 2nd gear (at or near the rev limiter). Basing it off of stock 2nd gear ratios and the factory rev limiter, a 3.55 rear gear is most common. I use a 3.55 rear gear in my 2000 GT, 2004 V6 and my 1992 GT. I will bump the rev limiter occasionally, but I never have to shift into 3rd on the courses I run on.
How do the steeda front sway bar mounts mount on the mustang? When I took my stock sway bar off the cobra one of the mounting bolts was broke and I had to order a new one. The stock mounts seem very cheap and weak
On 99-04 cars (should be the same for your car), you have to remove the speed nuts in the frame to allow the carriage bolts that come with the Steeda brackets to slide into the slots left behind by the speed nuts. The bolts point down from the frame. I used some tape to keep the bolts from coming out of the slots when positioning the mounts. Supporting the sway bar, or having a second set of hands around, will make installing the Steeda mounts easier. I have bent OEM sway bar mounts, but I know a lot of people who still use the OEM mounts and haven't had issues. In my opinion, it's worth upgrading to the Steeda mounts on an autocross car.
Maximum Motorsports told me that if you lower car more than 1.5'' it will ride on the bump stops the majority of the time.
One of the biggest mistakes people make when autocrossing these cars is lowering them too much.
I’ve been looking and haven’t seen you talk about bump steer kits. (If you have then I’ve completely missed it.) Do you have any experience with that or just save money?
These cars handle better when they sit higher. The springs I use don't lower the car enough to create a significant bump steer issue. I have never felt the need to use a bump steer kit on my cars. You mentioned using the Eibach Pro Kit springs on your car. They lower the car a bit more than the Ford Racing C springs. You might need a bump steer kit, but based on how high your car looked at the event, you might be okay without one. Do you have poly spring isolators installed?
Warhorse Racing with watching your videos and seeing your results, I have become a true believer in the capability of these cars. Yes, mine has the Eibach Pro Kit but I’m not sure about the isolators. I’m learning more of what to look for and I need to put mine up on stands and really look at it closely.
@@DerkJester These cars can be pretty amazing with the right mods. And, fewer mods than most people think. The best advice I can give you is to go after the factory-installed flaws first, get the car adjustable, then mod it to your driving style.
Warhorse Racing awesome! Thank you so much! I can’t wait to start really digging in this project. Until then, I’ll continue to study your videos! 👍
@@DerkJester I'm always happy to help. I'm excited to see your car evolve. Thanks for checking out the videos!
Are prothane bushings same as poly.... the once you swapped to?
Yes, Prothane makes poly bushings. There are also other brands of poly bushings available. Depending on the SCCA class you're running in, you might want to go with Global West Delrin bushings in your A-arms and steering rack. You can see those bushings in my "ThoroughbRED Part 3" video.
@@warhorseracing thank you
My comments to this video keep disappearing.
I'm not sure why. I hope you got my reply to your question on my "MUSTANG ST PART 4" video.