22R Timing Chain Replacement // Water Pump // Oil Pump
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- čas přidán 27. 09. 2021
- How to replace timing chain, timing chain cover, water pump, and oil pump on a 1988 Toyota Pickup 22R
Engine: 22R Aisin Carburetor
Vehicle: '88 Toyota Pickup
Website: isaacdozier.org/ - Auta a dopravní prostředky
Bro, nice vid. I thought you had to take the head off to do that job but obviously I’m wrong.
Watching from Jamaica 🇯🇲 thanks for sharing
Place a dab of white finger nail polish on the crankshaft pulley notch to be seen easier with the flashing timing light. But be sure to let the white finger nail polish dry on the pulley before you start the engine to use the timing light. So place the white finger nail polish on the crankshaft pulley when you remove the pulley to replace the timing chain. Walmart sells the white finger nail polish in the cosmetics department for one dollar.
in the video at 7:57 15:48 I can see a discolored link on the timing chain that is not aligned to the timing dot on the oil pump drive gear in front of the lower sprocket for the timing chain.
Next time put RTV instead of glue I know is call gasket sealer but is not is glue. Also when you make a video about changing a timing chain or any rebuild tell people how to find the timing marks shit like that. But other than that good video man...
I’m about ready to start ordering parts for my 85 22re. Is that an eBay timing chain kit? I’m considering buying a new head vs. rebuilding mine. Not exactly sure what I will do yet. Just want to get things done right.
👍
Hey man where do the two vacuum lines go to coming off the distributor
Can you text me where did you get those parts the cover is this come on a kit?
Please I'll preciate your answer
Thanks to share your video
Hey man! I’m installing new chain and guides but with the kit it seems when putting the guides in the chain gets way to tight, did you have this issue too???
The chain tensioner should keep the chain from having too much slack, but it shouldn't be too tight on the left side (when looking at the engine from front of vehicle). The tensioner should work as a sort of shock absorber.
Otherwise, if the chain is too loose, it will slap the right side and break the guide. If not caught in time it will eat into the cover and start to leak oil quickly.
It would drive me crazy to not have my marks all where they should be for Cylinder 1 TDC
was you able to get the timing cover back in without lifting the head?
Yes, I've done this multiple times with no issue. Don't forget the bolt that goes into the top of the cover from inside the head (under the distributor gear I believe). Forget and you may crack the cover pulling it out.
Good luck bud!
Where did you get those metal chain guides? Can't find it anywere
www.lceperformance.com/LCE-22R-1981-1984-Dual-Row-Timing-Chain-Upgrade-p/1015013.htm
Rockauto
it seems like there's an alignment issue? at 8:09 the dark Grey link should be aligned with the notch at the bottom of the sprocket (should be at 6 o'clock position)
No issues. I noticed that too after I made the install, but couldn't think of any reason it would make a difference. Is there something special about that link?
If the driveshaft, cams, distributors, etc... Are all aligned properly, does it make a difference?
Genuine question, you seem like you have some useful knowledge. Please elaborate here for others if you can.
Thanks in advance. (That's a pun)
@@IsaacDozier1 Very important the two dark marks on the chain must be fitted on the marks on the crank & cam gear. Make sure the piston on 1st cyl is on TDC & cam @ 12 o'clock position. After installing the chain & gears count the links from crank gear dot mark to the cam gear dot mark they should be 25 links.
@@billgeorgiou9929 But... what's the reason those links need to be in that position? Honest question.
Aren't all the links universal in size?
Needs a valve adjustment, 20w-50 oil and maybe check for a small vacuum leak. Valve tick like that drives me crazy
Valves had been adjusted and double-checked. Are you familiar with the 22R? From all my research, this is just how they sound.
Do not use copper spray gasket. When I used copper spray gasket, the synthetic oil dissolved the copper spray gasket.
I would never start a big job on a filthy engine like that. Degrease and wash it first, makes life easier. And I would have cleaned up the visible internal deposits too. Then wiped up excess sealant so it doesn't get into the coolant. But nice video anyway, very helpful.
I hope i don’t find a broken chain tomorrow when I remove the valve cover to figure out why my distributor rotor won’t rotate. I just replaced the oil and water pump as well as the main bearing seal with zero leaks.
You didn't aline the bottom keyway, good luck!!!!!
Runs with no issues. Can you add a timestamp and explain your logic further?