On brush reversal: don’t sweat it. The crown is not nearly as fragile as you think. A nylon or bronze brush being reversed won’t hurt anything. And reintroduction of debris is a non issue- the brush is for breaking up, not removing. Patch it out to clean. Done.
I've been watching your channel for a few months now and have gained a tremendous amount of knowledge on precision shooting and rifles. As someone who is just learning PRS, I turn to your channel often when I have a question concerning the sport. And after watching this video, I now realize that I have been maintaining my new rifle incorrectly. Thanks for all of the hard work you put into your videos and keeping us informed. It is greatly appreciated!
Based on my 35 years experience of shooting and cleaning the 20 target and hunting bolt action rifles I own, my only suggestion in regards to the cleaning process of a bolt action rifle is to make sure the ocular lens (rear lens) of the scope is covered. I can personally testify to the intensity of the gut wrenching/punch in the stomach pain one will feel after accidently stabbing and scraping the lens of a $2,800 Night Force tactical rifle scope with the tip of a cleaning rod jag.
@@glaze_tpf9791 - Burris's warranty is truly excellent. I had a Burris EuroDiamond 3-15X 50mm that I accidentally damaged while hunting. The rifle it was mounted on was knocked over from a tree stand and the lens was cracked when the scoped hit the ground from about 20 feet. I contacted Burris and less than half an hour they e-mailed me a FexEx shipping label to have the scope send to them for repair. A week later they contacted me with some bad news and good news. Bad news: the scope could not be repaired as the model of lens used on that scope was no longer made. The good news: they would like to replace it with of a 3-15X 50mm Veracity with my choice of reticle and FFP or RFP. 10 days later the replacement scope arrived, and Burris included a $50.00 gift certificate with the scope.
Being new to precision rifles, I want to thank you for your videos. I've already learned several things and what-not-to-dos and what-to-dos. Much appreciated.
Dude, simple, precise, and efficient. Thanks for the video. I was worried if I was cleaning my barrel the correct way but that answered all my questions.
YES! Thank you and God bless you! My dad used to obsess about getting that patch back to white by scrubbing the hell out of all that "copper fouling" What a bunch of silliness. One hundred shots run a little copper solvent through and don't obsess. I make my own nitric acid solvent for my stainless barrels and I stop after a 10min soak and a few patches. Its amazing how much our procedures bear likeness. Right down to the same bore patch over the same bore brush. Great video!
Funny you mentioned running an oily patch when storing, I did a test at 300yds where I shot the first round out of a clean and oiled barrel, though I did run 2 clean patches before I shot, the first round was smack dab in the middle of the group with the other shots, 6 Creed, Bartlein barrel.
good info, thanks nice to have a trustworthy reference, as just starting to get into the long range game. Thinking ill be picking up a T3x TAC A1 this afternoon
Excellent! I am a hunter in Alaska and use Barnes TTSX copper bullet so a nylon brush instead of a bronze brush with copper cleaner solvent. I love your method of removing the brush at the end of each stroke instead of back and forth and your method of cleaning the chamber as a final step.
Again, another fine piece of instruction. Have you ever used Flitz silver polish? It is a white cream that I use for lead fowling and copper fowling. Works very well. Helps polish the barrel surfaces that intern help cut down on copper fowling over time.
Word of advice for anyone who watches this. Bore tech is phenomenal, they have an agent called carbon killer you should use instead of hoppes. Also, use some sort of aluminum or nickle plated jags, not brass, it gives you a false positive with the copper cleaner and you will continue to see blue patches over and over. Also, for carbon use a bronze brush and copper use nylon, also scrub the barrell
Loved this video, going to give your way a try next time. Question: When you finished you mentioned fibers being in the barrel, how do you prefer to remove those? Another pass with a copper brush?
Trevor Connors Thanks Trevor and thanks for watching. I haven’t really worried too much about the fibers. I’m sure a brush would work. Maybe a nylon one?
Just subscribed. It looks like I have never correctly cleaned a barrel after watching your method. As I watched every step, I think I do the opposite. Question...is a barrel garbage if the build up is on there several years?
Glocked 17 Thanks for subscribing! No, but you need to try to get any copper buildup out of there. For really, really stubborn copper buildup you might want to try Sweets 7.62. Don’t smell it, it’s like pure ammonia. Also, don’t leave it in the barrel for more than 5 mins at a time. It will come clean eventually .
I have a new sps 308. I shot 40 rounds last weekend and cleaned as you mentioned. This weekend i shot 50 rounds, and I couldnt get the rod through the barrel with a patch, I ended up cutting the patches on 2 sides to make them about 1/4 in smaller??? I have a dewy. .30 cal rod, hoppe .270- .35 patches, using hoppe # 9, and then hoppe copper remover. I was shooting seira match king 175gr .308 factory loads. I bet I have ran 30 patches. Any thoughts. I have repeated this process 3 times and each time I run the copper brush through, I run more patches, which are carbon fouled. Should the barrel have gotten that dirty after 50 rounds. I started with a squeaky clean barrel? Awesome channel, thank you for all the great info.
I always get a kick out of the “don’t hurt your barrel “ logic. It’s like worrying about scratching a hammer with a nerf dart. There is NOTHING on most cleaning rods nearly as hard as the barrel. Jags are soft brass or aluminum, as are the ferrules that’s are threaded at the rod end. Unless your cleaning rod and jags are nearly chisel hard, damaging the barrel is tough to do on purpose. Now, if you use a polished steel cleaning rod and the end is directly threaded, it *might* be hard enough to cause damage. But even so, likely not or the rod would be brittle.
Different schools of thought. That burnished ss cleaning rod will not hold and rub embedded abrasives throughout the bore. You can wipe a burnished ss rod clean. I have never been able to wipe a coated rod clean.
Ray: 1). Were do you buy your "squirt bottles"? 2). Where did you buy the cool velcro two cartridge holder that is on the bolt side of many of your rifles? Very informative and well done video... as usual!
Midway USA has squirt bottles like that one. $8.99. I made mine out of an old bottle of eye wash. and an empty RCBS case lube squeeze bottle I cleaned out. I can drip one drop at a time with it and it does the trick.
I just got a Tikka T3X TAC A1 6.5 Creedmoor rifle and I only shot 20 rounds out of it. I have done at least 80 patches or more and there is always some black on it. I’m using hoppes number 9. What am I doing wrong?
Hey X, Do you grease your AI bolt the same way? (All six lugs?) And what is the name of the grease you are using? There are ALOT of recommendations out there... anywhere from automotive grease to firearms specific grease:)
Lance Gifford Hey Lance, I always use grease on my bolt guns. I have an old tube of grease that I got from a friend that was an airline mechanic. Said it was the best stuff around??? It is red and looks just like the shooters choice grease. The plus side is that is doesn’t have any odor.
Interesting: I recently learned that some bench rest shooters finish cleaning by running some lock ease through the bore to place a thin film of graphite powder in the bore. They claim that it eliminates the need to take fouling shots to stabilize MV and POI after cleaning. Hmm…
Excellent. Where do I get the copper cleaner you mentioned? I want to order it or buy it at a store. Thanks. Very good vid. Please give the name of it and a link if it's only on liine
Big Al Hello Al, Thanks. It is Bore-Tech CU+2 copper remover. It is available at Midway USA for 9.99 a bottle. It has a gold label with a pig(boar) on it.
Any modifications to this method for semi auto rifles. Just picked up an M1A Springfield, and obviously I can't get a straight shot of the cleaning rod like i would my M70 Winchester.
Frankie M Great question Frankie!! I have a ton of hours into cleaning M1a’s. There is a special kit for those. It consists of a tray that drops into the bolt area and keeps it open. On the muzzle end there is a small cap with a hole that serves as your bore guide. Everything else remains the same. The “tray” makes it easy. Since you have to be carful not to hit the bolt face with your cleaning rod. Otherwise, it unlocks the catch and slams shut.
X-RING, in your experience, when do you begin to build up enough copper fouling to warrant cleaning the barrel in a 6.5? That is, after 300-500 rounds or much sooner?
CClint123 Hey CClint123. In my experience it depends on the barrel and possibly how it was “broken in”. I have a Rock 5r that copper fouls and loses accuracy at around the 150 mark. The AIAX doesn’t show any signs of copper fouling or accuracy degradation until 250+. Hope that helps, and thanks for watching.
I just purchased the axmc in .300 win mag 24". When I got it, it was in the 20" I called they don't have anymore 24" in dark earth. What is your thoughts on the 20". I guess good thing about it is I could always just buy a longer barrel later on. Also where the front rail and back rail meet it looks like the front rail is a little bit to the left. It's not horrible but enough when you hold the gun up and look down the side of the rail you can see it.
Brian Powell Hey Brian, You will be giving up a little bit of velocity but the 300 win mag has more than enough to reach out there with a 20”. I had the Barrett MRAD in 300 with a 20” and It was still almost too easy inside of 1500yds. I would be a little upset with an offset rail. Might be worth contacting the dealer/manufacturer about that.
love the content! Question, As I understand and from reading some comments, you should not clean your P rifle after each shooting session? only after x many rounds until you need to or have build up, but you mentioned you should oil your barrel if its going to be stored in a safe for more than x many weeks? Do you recommend cleaning the barrel if it is going to be stored for a month before shooting it again then? Thanks again for the great info and videos
Hello Gas Gas. Thank you for watching and commenting. I would say that is mostly correct. It doesn’t hurt the rifle itself to clean it. Just make sure you use the right tools to clean it properly. I would clean the carbon fouling but I wouldn’t strip all of the copper out after every session.
Don’t ever spill Butch’s bore shine on your hardwood floors. It will eat the finish to the wood and stink up your house for months. Ask me how I know this.
Typically, I will clean first, then shoot and clean for about 5 shots. Then groups of 3 or 5. That’s about it. I don’t get excessive with the break in procedure.
A couple questions, do you clean after every shooting session, or do you let it go over a period? I have heard a build up of copper equilibrium is beneficial to accuracy ,and shooting from a clean barrel causes shots to have eratic spread until copper and fouling starts to build up again. Any advice on this?
Hello Jamie that is a great question. It really depends on what I am doing with the rifle. I always clean the action and run at least one light patch of Hoppes solvent through the barrel after shooting. This is just for carbon fouling. I only remove the copper if I notice it losing its accuracy. There are some caveats to that statement. “Work rifles” are always kept with a fouled bore which basically means fired after cleaning.
@@XRING thank you, that cleared up some confusion on my part. I appreciate the reply. I enjoyed your video, very well done. I look forward to watching some more of your videos.
Thank you Jamie. I have a lot of long range precision shooting videos as well. I use the same chemicals and cleaning processes for those rifles as well. Thanks for watching.
@@XRING I have another question. I'm about a month or less away from my first precision rifle purchase. I want to get all the info I can before firing. There is a huge debate about whether or not to break in a ne barrel, while I dont know if its important or not I lean towards the side that it couldn't hurt. I understand that regardless of what barrel you have, all new barrels have microscopic imperfections and firing a bullet through a clean barrel allows those to be polished. My question is a step further than last night's question of copper equilibrium. While you cleared that up for me, that copper can be a good thing and cleaned when you notice a change in accuracy, when trying to smooth out the imperfections in a new barrel, and cleaning between shots, should I also clean copper each shot to allow the barrel to be its cleanest? Once break in is reached I would think stop copper removal to build accuracy.
Jamie Messer Great question. Here is how I have been doing it lately. Even in my higher end rifles like AI’s 1. Make sure you have the necessary items to do things properly. I.E. Bore guide, one piece rod coated or Carbon. Proper jags, patch and brush. Hoppes and Boretech copper remover. 2. Shoot 1 and clean completely, copper and all. Use a lot of patches they are cheap. I do this each and every time for 5 shots. 2. Shoot 3 and clean completely. Do not rapid fire the 3 shots ( no heat ) Repeat this for 9 total shots and 3 cleanings. 3. Shoot 5 and clean completely. DONE! This has been working for me and it doesn’t take a long time. This also gives me a chance to get my optics really dialed in. All of my rifles will hold 3/8” or less at 100 with a 5 shot group using Match ammo. What I have found is that the rifles that I do this to will shoot more consistently and with less copper fouling than rifles I did not do this to. No difference in accuracy but rifles that I just went and shot seem to copper foul more quickly. I do not use “break in” bullets with abrasives or moly coated bullets. Not saying my way is right, but it works. Also, most rifles might not begin shooting their best until you have a few rounds on the barrel. I have seen as little as 30 to as much as 100 or more. I had a custom rifle built that I was extremely disappointed with until it had about 150 rounds through it. Now it holds 1/4 moa all day long.
Ok one question, when twisting the brass chamber brush with the patch on it, does it go into the barrel and scratch the barrel since its twisting instead being pushed thru?
Sounds like you have a nice collection of them for sure! I have been carrying Microtech's for about 20 years now. I really do believe that they make some of the best knives in the world. So....about your question. When they had a shooting team I shot for them. Also, Tony and I competed in quite a few long range competitions together in team format style matches. We actually won the Snipers Unknown Challenge in October of 2018. Thanks for watching!
X-RING That’s pretty cool, I remember seeing Tony doing a little bolt gun work on Instagram. Yeah I really like their folders, their autos are the best in the business but their folders are outstanding. Looking forward to seeing what else you got for us. Curious: I haven’t removed any copper out of any of my guns but they shoot great, could you do a vid on coppering vs clean bore?
Mr NiceKnife Thanks NiceKnife! That would have been me he was shooting with. I agree on the folders completely! You really only need to de-copper when you see you accuracy degrading. For me, I will typically do that around every 200-250 round mark for precision rifles.
X-RING it just saves doing things twice. At least with the eliminator you can just use that and it will take the carbon and copper out and it's supposed to do a amazing job at doing so! I also haven't tried it yet but will on the next clean. Another video I'd love to see from you is breaking in a barrel and what you do.(If you do at all) everyone had a different opinion. Some say it's myth. Who knows. But love to know what your routine is on a new rifle
Chris Walters If it’s a cheap AR or something chrome lined I don’t really worry about it. However, for the AI’s, Proofs etc. I do a shoot and clean for 3-5 rounds and then 3 shot groups then 5 shot. The way I look at it, it’s just peace of mind and it couldn’t hurt as long as you are using the right tools to do the job properly. In my experience, I can’t say I have noticed an accuracy difference, but they tend to go longer on keeping the copper buildup down. Just my opinion.
X-RING so you clean it after every shot for 3-5 shots. Then clean it after every 3 shoots a few times then clean it again after every 5 shot group maybe 2-3 times? I was thinking something similar. Thanks mate!
Thanks Jules. At the time of the video it was the Garmin Fenix. I have since switched to the Garmin Delta with applied ballistics. Thanks for watching and have a great week.
Hey Steve, not sure of the name. I know it’s used on commercial jets. Probably Mobil 1 grease or something like that. Yes, give me a second to look up the link for semi-autos
what are the tips for cleaning the barrel properly using a bronze brush, how can it be done over and over again? because every time you rub it there is still dirt and if it is done repeatedly it will damage the barrel, please answer
So, usually it’s because your brush is dirty. Wet patch first. Then bronze brush. Spray the bronze brush with brake parts cleaner to remove carbon from the brush. Then use a wet patch. Repeat from the beginning again. Shouldn’t take too long.
Okay I have a 22-250 Weatherby Vanguard that used to shoot great. Seems like within the last few hour things that I can shoot one or two Bullets and then I can’t even stay on paper. I’ve talked to a few people and they say I have either extreme copper fouling in my barrel or bedding issues with my stock. I’ve tried removing the copper with pro shot copper solvent and I cannot get the patches clean they have all been blue and I’ve done it at least 10 times. Any ideas or any help would be great.
Hello Conner, I would start off by checking the common things like the action screws to the manufacturers torque settings. Then work your way up towards the mount, and rings. Once all of that is done. I would definitely get some Boretech CU+2 from Midway USA or elsewhere and really take your time removing ALL copper fouling from the barrel. It is ok to let it soak for 10 mins between patches. Once you have done that. Then I would go out to the range and slow fire about 10 fouler shots letting the barrel cool between shots. There are a lot of other things that need to be asked. 1. What contour barrel do you have? 2. How "hard" was the rifle run in the past? 22-250's don't have a long barrel life but it shouldn't jump off the paper. Typical barrel life for prime accuracy on a 22-250 should last about 1200 rounds easily depending on rate of fire. start there and let me know how it does. Also, make sure nothing is making contact with the barrel if it is free floated. I hope this helps, let me know how it all works out. Thanks for watching.
I found that the barrel was making contact with the stalk so I sanded it out to where there is no contact and also I just got all of the copper out of the barrel I think. The patches aren't blue anymore anyway. Im still waiting on weather to cooperate to go test the gun. @@XRING
X-RING how often do you use a sweets or butches bore shine? One every cleaning or a couple times per year as copper really builds up? Or only during barrel break in?
After I purchased my first precision rifle, I opened this video and a tab in my browser (Amazon). Got Pretty well everything you use in this video. I have an axis precision II, and I had to take apart the stock to accommodate the rod (It isn’t foldable). The handle was at a very slight angle, and at times wasn’t easy to push all the way through. It’s my first rifle, so I’m a bit nervous. I was worried about the jag causing damage to the barrel, but am I right to assume the likely cause of damage to a precision rifle is from the debris caught on the rod, and not necessarily the jag because the jag is a softer metal than the barrel? I ask because my first pass through, I got the jag through, and handle brought up against the stock, putting a decent flex on the rod. I’m thinking I’m okay, but wouldn’t mind some input. Thanks for the great content!
kogk1943 I have it and only use it on rifles that I am having a hard time from getting the copper removed. It is good to keep around for those situations.
I go 600 rounds are soo without cleaning copper out. You want a good copper equilibrium in a barrel to much are to little will make your groups open up are poi shift.If you don’t want any copper in a barrel how can you shoot a 100-200 round match? Copper will build up and change your poi due to your barrel speeding up.
Good points Tommy. After every major match 100-200 rounds I completely strip all of the copper and start fresh. I will make sure I have about 20 rounds down the pipe and it just sets till the next time. It’s just how I do it and it seems to work well for me.
Not if you are shooting lead bullets. AlMost everyone uses Lapua or Eley for that and they are just solid lead. If you are using a copper spun bullet then yes, you might want to get the copper out occasionally
The only thing I do differently is that after the initial cleaning when I walk away and let the bore soak I do it with the rifle vertical, muzzle down on a balled up white sock in a Tupperware bowl so that the bottom half of the bore doesn't clean twice as good as the top 12 o'clock of the bore since the liquid runs down with gravity. I actually remove the chamber protector and give a few extra drops into the chamber to run down to the carbon ring and help loosen that too and all the fluid runs to the muzzle and leaves a blue or green stain on the old white sock or t-shirt cut out. Once I have done this a few times I take an old bore brush and wrap a patch around it and insert it into the throat and hand turn it a few times and watch the carbon ring disappear. (I use wipe-out bore cleaner, shooters choice, then flush with 99% alcohol or mineral spirits. When dry I leave a light coat of Hoppe's no.9 )
On brush reversal: don’t sweat it. The crown is not nearly as fragile as you think. A nylon or bronze brush being reversed won’t hurt anything. And reintroduction of debris is a non issue- the brush is for breaking up, not removing. Patch it out to clean. Done.
I've been watching your channel for a few months now and have gained a tremendous amount of knowledge on precision shooting and rifles. As someone who is just learning PRS, I turn to your channel often when I have a question concerning the sport. And after watching this video, I now realize that I have been maintaining my new rifle incorrectly. Thanks for all of the hard work you put into your videos and keeping us informed. It is greatly appreciated!
Based on my 35 years experience of shooting and cleaning the 20 target and hunting bolt action rifles I own, my only suggestion in regards to the cleaning process of a bolt action rifle is to make sure the ocular lens (rear lens) of the scope is covered. I can personally testify to the intensity of the gut wrenching/punch in the stomach pain one will feel after accidently stabbing and scraping the lens of a $2,800 Night Force tactical rifle scope with the tip of a cleaning rod jag.
That sounds like something I would do!
No lifetime warranty on NF scopes ?
@@2000grover - Yes, but the warranty coverage against damages and defects is limited, and damages resulted from accidents are not covered.
@@F15ElectricEagle i buy Burris mainly for their warranty.
no certificate, no receipt, no questions asked.
@@glaze_tpf9791 - Burris's warranty is truly excellent. I had a Burris EuroDiamond 3-15X 50mm that I accidentally damaged while hunting. The rifle it was mounted on was knocked over from a tree stand and the lens was cracked when the scoped hit the ground from about 20 feet. I contacted Burris and less than half an hour they e-mailed me a FexEx shipping label to have the scope send to them for repair. A week later they contacted me with some bad news and good news. Bad news: the scope could not be repaired as the model of lens used on that scope was no longer made. The good news: they would like to replace it with of a 3-15X 50mm Veracity with my choice of reticle and FFP or RFP. 10 days later the replacement scope arrived, and Burris included a $50.00 gift certificate with the scope.
Being new to precision rifles, I want to thank you for your videos. I've already learned several things and what-not-to-dos and what-to-dos. Much appreciated.
Dude, simple, precise, and efficient. Thanks for the video. I was worried if I was cleaning my barrel the correct way but that answered all my questions.
Jake Sanborn Thanks Jake and thank you for watching.
Thank you very much for taking the time to share your knowledge with new sportsmen like me!
Very informative video Ray , thank you, I will follow your cleaning procedures. That nail on chalkboard sound says it all..
I have watched so many videos on cleaning a barrel, and this one is best one yet! Thanks!!
Gerhard Potgieter Thank you Gerhard and thanks for watching.
YES! Thank you and God bless you! My dad used to obsess about getting that patch back to white by scrubbing the hell out of all that "copper fouling" What a bunch of silliness. One hundred shots run a little copper solvent through and don't obsess. I make my own nitric acid solvent for my stainless barrels and I stop after a 10min soak and a few patches. Its amazing how much our procedures bear likeness. Right down to the same bore patch over the same bore brush. Great video!
Good info thank you. Looks like that bore tech worked really well! I’ll have to get some.
You are a tremendous resource X-Ring, thank you!
Thank you David. I really appreciate the compliment.
new to shooting I've been following for a while and you have given such great advice thanks a lot! from England
GloriousRed My pleasure GloriousRed! Thanks for watching the channel and commenting.
Glad I found your video. Got a Bergara 6.5, and was looking for a process that didn't leave me with doubts. Thanks
Ryan Hatch Thanks Ryan. It has always worked for me.
The Bergara is a great setup.
Thanks for watching !
Best online resource for all things precision rifle. Thanks X-Ring
Funny you mentioned running an oily patch when storing, I did a test at 300yds where I shot the first round out of a clean and oiled barrel, though I did run 2 clean patches before I shot, the first round was smack dab in the middle of the group with the other shots, 6 Creed, Bartlein barrel.
Excellent video buddy I’ll be cleaning my guns this way in future 👌 thanks
Thanks John and thanks for watching the channel.
good info, thanks
nice to have a trustworthy reference, as just starting to get into the long range game. Thinking ill be picking up a T3x TAC A1 this afternoon
Thanks Manitou!
Seriously thanks, so hard to find solid information out there.
Thanks for putting this out. Big help, especially for a new shooter.
Another great video, thank you Ray!!!
thanks very informative video. Just got a brand new Tikka tx3 tac a1. I am going to follow your recommandations for cleaning it.
Thanks Kevlar. I know Rick has the same rifle and follows this same regimen since he purchased it.
Great video. Thanks for a very detailed video.
Excellent! I am a hunter in Alaska and use Barnes TTSX copper bullet so a nylon brush instead of a bronze brush with copper cleaner solvent.
I love your method of removing the brush at the end of each stroke instead of back and forth and your method of cleaning the chamber as a final step.
Unreal...really enjoying your channel cheers
Learned a lot....Now I have to buy a new cleaning kit lol....Thanks again Mr. X
You are welcome. Your rifles will appreciate it !! Thanks.
Superb video thanks! watching from.the U.K
Thanks for the tips sir!
Again, another fine piece of instruction. Have you ever used Flitz silver polish? It is a white cream that I use for lead fowling and copper fowling. Works very well. Helps polish the barrel surfaces that intern help cut down on copper fowling over time.
Excellent information; always fearful of doing barrel damage
Thanks for dropping knowledge on us sir
Kevin Roberts No problem Kevin! Just sharing the knowledge.
Great info. Thanks Ray!
My pleasure
Thanks for quality videos ! I admire your opinion and advice !
Thanks for the tips and info as appreciated...Good stuff...
Thanks Scott.
Great video
Enjoyed your video.
FYI...Boretech for copper fowling is CU+2, believe you misspoke...thx for the great content...
You are correct. My mistake, CU+2 is what I recommend for copper fouling.
Thank you X-Ring. You videos are very educational and fun to watch. Now is there any difference between rimfire and centerfire rife when cleaning?
Good video as usual
great job my friend.
Amazing how many different thoughts and methods to clean a barrel.
Beautiful rifle👍👍💯💯
I was taught the same way many years ago.. it works!
Yes it does! Thanks
@@XRING how long is your Tipton rod 36in? Or 26in?
Thanks from Idaho!!!
Thanks Ray.
another great vid
Thanks!
Dude is on point.
Am going start to clean my hunting rifles like that for now on
Word of advice for anyone who watches this. Bore tech is phenomenal, they have an agent called carbon killer you should use instead of hoppes. Also, use some sort of aluminum or nickle plated jags, not brass, it gives you a false positive with the copper cleaner and you will continue to see blue patches over and over. Also, for carbon use a bronze brush and copper use nylon, also scrub the barrell
Loved this video, going to give your way a try next time. Question: When you finished you mentioned fibers being in the barrel, how do you prefer to remove those? Another pass with a copper brush?
Trevor Connors Thanks Trevor and thanks for watching. I haven’t really worried too much about the fibers. I’m sure a brush would work. Maybe a nylon one?
Thank you!
Thanks for sharing.👍🏻
Lol ;) found the video I was asking for. Thanks a lot
Fantastic content as always!
Which bore guide is this and would this work for on the AR platform or is it specifically for bolt guns?
Thank you and thanks for watching. There are specific bore guides for AR’s. I did a separate video on how to clean the AR. Thanks
Great information
Thank you.
Fantastic video. I appreciate how succinct you are. Where can that squirt bottle be found (the one with the Hoppe's)?
Rick Mottola I order those from Midway USA.
Just subscribed. It looks like I have never correctly cleaned a barrel after watching your method. As I watched every step, I think I do the opposite. Question...is a barrel garbage if the build up is on there several years?
Glocked 17 Thanks for subscribing! No, but you need to try to get any copper buildup out of there.
For really, really stubborn copper buildup you might want to try Sweets 7.62. Don’t smell it, it’s like pure ammonia. Also, don’t leave it in the barrel for more than 5 mins at a time. It will come clean eventually .
I have a new sps 308. I shot 40 rounds last weekend and cleaned as you mentioned. This weekend i shot 50 rounds, and I couldnt get the rod through the barrel with a patch, I ended up cutting the patches on 2 sides to make them about 1/4 in smaller??? I have a dewy. .30 cal rod, hoppe .270- .35 patches, using hoppe # 9, and then hoppe copper remover. I was shooting seira match king 175gr .308 factory loads. I bet I have ran 30 patches. Any thoughts. I have repeated this process 3 times and each time I run the copper brush through, I run more patches, which are carbon fouled. Should the barrel have gotten that dirty after 50 rounds. I started with a squeaky clean barrel? Awesome channel, thank you for all the great info.
I always get a kick out of the “don’t hurt your barrel “ logic. It’s like worrying about scratching a hammer with a nerf dart. There is NOTHING on most cleaning rods nearly as hard as the barrel. Jags are soft brass or aluminum, as are the ferrules that’s are threaded at the rod end. Unless your cleaning rod and jags are nearly chisel hard, damaging the barrel is tough to do on purpose. Now, if you use a polished steel cleaning rod and the end is directly threaded, it *might* be hard enough to cause damage. But even so, likely not or the rod would be brittle.
Different schools of thought. That burnished ss cleaning rod will not hold and rub embedded abrasives throughout the bore. You can wipe a burnished ss rod clean. I have never been able to wipe a coated rod clean.
wobbly tables are the BEST !!!
Best vid on you tube
Thanks Tristy, I appreciate that!
Mixed reviews on letting some copper(and or fouling) sit in the barrel to improve accuracy what is your take on that?
Ray: 1). Were do you buy your "squirt bottles"?
2). Where did you buy the cool velcro two cartridge holder that is on the bolt side of many of your rifles?
Very informative and well done video... as usual!
Midway USA has squirt bottles like that one. $8.99. I made mine out of an old bottle of eye wash. and an empty RCBS case lube squeeze bottle I cleaned out. I can drip one drop at a time with it and it does the trick.
I have no idea why you don't have 20,000 subs.
Big Al Time will tell.
Only time will tell Big Al!
What do you recommend cleaning the external part of the barrel such as the bolt knob an the action ect?
Guerrilla Sniper I typically just use microfiber cloth with CLP on it for a basic wipe down .
Thanks for watching.
I just got a Tikka T3X TAC A1 6.5 Creedmoor rifle and I only shot 20 rounds out of it. I have done at least 80 patches or more and there is always some black on it. I’m using hoppes number 9. What am I doing wrong?
Just use a nylon or bronze brush a few times and it will assist in breaking up the carbon. A little black is ok.
Hey X, Do you grease your AI bolt the same way? (All six lugs?) And what is the name of the grease you are using? There are ALOT of recommendations out there... anywhere from automotive grease to firearms specific grease:)
Lance Gifford Hey Lance, I always use grease on my bolt guns. I have an old tube of grease that I got from a friend that was an airline mechanic. Said it was the best stuff around??? It is red and looks just like the shooters choice grease. The plus side is that is doesn’t have any odor.
Interesting: I recently learned that some bench rest shooters finish cleaning by running some lock ease through the bore to place a thin film of graphite powder in the bore. They claim that it eliminates the need to take fouling shots to stabilize MV and POI after cleaning. Hmm…
Very interesting. Thank you for the information.
@@XRING This is the video... Speedy Gonzales and Erik Cortina... Cheers.
czcams.com/video/dfgbvAz09uI/video.html
Excellent. Where do I get the copper cleaner you mentioned? I want to order it or buy it at a store. Thanks. Very good vid.
Please give the name of it and a link if it's only on liine
Big Al Hello Al,
Thanks. It is Bore-Tech CU+2 copper remover. It is available at Midway USA for 9.99 a bottle. It has a gold label with a pig(boar) on it.
Any modifications to this method for semi auto rifles. Just picked up an M1A Springfield, and obviously I can't get a straight shot of the cleaning rod like i would my M70 Winchester.
Frankie M Great question Frankie!! I have a ton of hours into cleaning M1a’s.
There is a special kit for those.
It consists of a tray that drops into the bolt area and keeps it open. On the muzzle end there is a small cap with a hole that serves as your bore guide. Everything else remains the same.
The “tray” makes it easy. Since you have to be carful not to hit the bolt face with your cleaning rod. Otherwise, it unlocks the catch and slams shut.
X-RING, in your experience, when do you begin to build up enough copper fouling to warrant cleaning the barrel in a 6.5? That is, after 300-500 rounds or much sooner?
CClint123 Hey CClint123. In my experience it depends on the barrel and possibly how it was “broken in”. I have a Rock 5r that copper fouls and loses accuracy at around the 150 mark. The AIAX doesn’t show any signs of copper fouling or accuracy degradation until 250+. Hope that helps, and thanks for watching.
X-RING my Savage that was reamed with a dull beaver will start to go sideways in under 100.
I just purchased the axmc in .300 win mag 24". When I got it, it was in the 20" I called they don't have anymore 24" in dark earth. What is your thoughts on the 20". I guess good thing about it is I could always just buy a longer barrel later on. Also where the front rail and back rail meet it looks like the front rail is a little bit to the left. It's not horrible but enough when you hold the gun up and look down the side of the rail you can see it.
Brian Powell Hey Brian,
You will be giving up a little bit of velocity but the 300 win mag has more than enough to reach out there with a 20”.
I had the Barrett MRAD in 300 with a 20” and It was still almost too easy inside of 1500yds.
I would be a little upset with an offset rail. Might be worth contacting the dealer/manufacturer about that.
X-RING thanks for the reply. I will contact them on Monday and see what they can do. Awesome job on all the videos.
Brian Powell Thanks Brian and thanks for watching.
Question. How does one know that any copper is not from a brush instead of bullets?
So my cleaning rod is not long enough can I start from the end of the barrel back?
I didn't get the one for 6.5 Creedmoor. I got the one for .260 Remington.
So after how many rounds should you clean
love the content! Question, As I understand and from reading some comments, you should not clean your P rifle after each shooting session? only after x many rounds until you need to or have build up, but you mentioned you should oil your barrel if its going to be stored in a safe for more than x many weeks? Do you recommend cleaning the barrel if it is going to be stored for a month before shooting it again then? Thanks again for the great info and videos
Hello Gas Gas. Thank you for watching and commenting.
I would say that is mostly correct.
It doesn’t hurt the rifle itself to clean it. Just make sure you use the right tools to clean it properly. I would clean the carbon fouling but I wouldn’t strip all of the copper out after every session.
Don’t ever spill Butch’s bore shine on your hardwood floors. It will eat the finish to the wood and stink up your house for months. Ask me how I know this.
Do you follow any particular procedure for breaking in a barrel?
Typically, I will clean first, then shoot and clean for about 5 shots. Then groups of 3 or 5. That’s about it. I don’t get excessive with the break in procedure.
my guns get nothing but a bore snake and a oil patch after every use. never ever had accuracy issues over 12 years of shooting.
Do you use a new brush every time or can you just clean it? What red grease do you use?
If the bristles are in good shape I spray it down with brake parts cleaner and reuse them. It is an aviation grease. I don’t recall the name.
A couple questions, do you clean after every shooting session, or do you let it go over a period? I have heard a build up of copper equilibrium is beneficial to accuracy ,and shooting from a clean barrel causes shots to have eratic spread until copper and fouling starts to build up again. Any advice on this?
Hello Jamie that is a great question.
It really depends on what I am doing with the rifle. I always clean the action and run at least one light patch of Hoppes solvent through the barrel after shooting. This is just for carbon fouling.
I only remove the copper if I notice it losing its accuracy.
There are some caveats to that statement. “Work rifles” are always kept with a fouled bore which basically means fired after cleaning.
@@XRING thank you, that cleared up some confusion on my part. I appreciate the reply. I enjoyed your video, very well done. I look forward to watching some more of your videos.
Thank you Jamie. I have a lot of long range precision shooting videos as well. I use the same chemicals and cleaning processes for those rifles as well.
Thanks for watching.
@@XRING I have another question. I'm about a month or less away from my first precision rifle purchase. I want to get all the info I can before firing. There is a huge debate about whether or not to break in a ne barrel, while I dont know if its important or not I lean towards the side that it couldn't hurt. I understand that regardless of what barrel you have, all new barrels have microscopic imperfections and firing a bullet through a clean barrel allows those to be polished. My question is a step further than last night's question of copper equilibrium. While you cleared that up for me, that copper can be a good thing and cleaned when you notice a change in accuracy, when trying to smooth out the imperfections in a new barrel, and cleaning between shots, should I also clean copper each shot to allow the barrel to be its cleanest? Once break in is reached I would think stop copper removal to build accuracy.
Jamie Messer Great question.
Here is how I have been doing it lately. Even in my higher end rifles like AI’s
1. Make sure you have the necessary items to do things properly. I.E. Bore guide, one piece rod coated or Carbon. Proper jags, patch and brush. Hoppes and Boretech copper remover.
2. Shoot 1 and clean completely, copper and all. Use a lot of patches they are cheap. I do this each and every time for 5 shots.
2. Shoot 3 and clean completely. Do not rapid fire the 3 shots ( no heat )
Repeat this for 9 total shots and 3 cleanings.
3. Shoot 5 and clean completely.
DONE!
This has been working for me and it doesn’t take a long time.
This also gives me a chance to get my optics really dialed in.
All of my rifles will hold 3/8” or less at 100 with a 5 shot group using Match ammo.
What I have found is that the rifles that I do this to will shoot more consistently and with less copper fouling than rifles I did not do this to. No difference in accuracy but rifles that I just went and shot seem to copper foul more quickly.
I do not use “break in” bullets with abrasives or moly coated bullets.
Not saying my way is right, but it works.
Also, most rifles might not begin shooting their best until you have a few rounds on the barrel. I have seen as little as 30 to as much as 100 or more.
I had a custom rifle built that I was extremely disappointed with until it had about 150 rounds through it. Now it holds 1/4 moa all day long.
Ok one question, when twisting the brass chamber brush with the patch on it, does it go into the barrel and scratch the barrel since its twisting instead being pushed thru?
It only goes into the chamber and not into the bore itself.
Oh ok...i thought the skinny part of the brush was going in the barrel...thanks for all you do!
Good video. I agree about the bronze brushes. Just curious do you have an affiliation with Microtech? Love their knives, I have like 20 of them lol.
Sounds like you have a nice collection of them for sure! I have been carrying Microtech's for about 20 years now. I really do believe that they make some of the best knives in the world.
So....about your question. When they had a shooting team I shot for them. Also, Tony and I competed in quite a few long range competitions together in team format style matches. We actually won the Snipers Unknown Challenge in October of 2018. Thanks for watching!
X-RING That’s pretty cool, I remember seeing Tony doing a little bolt gun work on Instagram. Yeah I really like their folders, their autos are the best in the business but their folders are outstanding. Looking forward to seeing what else you got for us. Curious: I haven’t removed any copper out of any of my guns but they shoot great, could you do a vid on coppering vs clean bore?
Mr NiceKnife Thanks NiceKnife! That would have been me he was shooting with. I agree on the folders completely!
You really only need to de-copper when you see you accuracy degrading. For me, I will typically do that around every 200-250 round mark for precision rifles.
I'm a Hoppes 9 fan. I'm afraid to use the copper removers.
Amazing video. Have you used the bore tech eliminator? Seems that everyone is using that now
Chris Walters Thanks Chris. I have some but haven’t had a chance to try it out.
Thanks for watching.
X-RING it just saves doing things twice. At least with the eliminator you can just use that and it will take the carbon and copper out and it's supposed to do a amazing job at doing so! I also haven't tried it yet but will on the next clean. Another video I'd love to see from you is breaking in a barrel and what you do.(If you do at all) everyone had a different opinion. Some say it's myth. Who knows. But love to know what your routine is on a new rifle
Chris Walters If it’s a cheap AR or something chrome lined I don’t really worry about it.
However, for the AI’s, Proofs etc. I do a shoot and clean for 3-5 rounds and then 3 shot groups then 5 shot.
The way I look at it, it’s just peace of mind and it couldn’t hurt as long as you are using the right tools to do the job properly.
In my experience, I can’t say I have noticed an accuracy difference, but they tend to go longer on keeping the copper buildup down.
Just my opinion.
X-RING so you clean it after every shot for 3-5 shots. Then clean it after every 3 shoots a few times then clean it again after every 5 shot group maybe 2-3 times? I was thinking something similar. Thanks mate!
Chris Walters Exactly! It has always worked for me.
👍
Don’t you live the barrel after cleaning?
Ray, like the watch. Brand/Model?
Thanks Jules. At the time of the video it was the Garmin Fenix. I have since switched to the Garmin Delta with applied ballistics. Thanks for watching and have a great week.
I have 2 questions. What was the name of red grease you put on bolt at end? Also how or do you have cleaning video for semi auto?
Thanks!
Hey Steve, not sure of the name. I know it’s used on commercial jets. Probably Mobil 1 grease or something like that. Yes, give me a second to look up the link for semi-autos
How I clean the AR.
czcams.com/video/mOj6q2tv-bI/video.html
what are the tips for cleaning the barrel properly using a bronze brush, how can it be done over and over again? because every time you rub it there is still dirt and if it is done repeatedly it will damage the barrel, please answer
So, usually it’s because your brush is dirty.
Wet patch first. Then bronze brush. Spray the bronze brush with brake parts cleaner to remove carbon from the brush. Then use a wet patch. Repeat from the beginning again. Shouldn’t take too long.
@@XRING ok means that the bronze brush should not be used for too long when cleaning the barrel, right?
Okay I have a 22-250 Weatherby Vanguard that used to shoot great. Seems like within the last few hour things that I can shoot one or two Bullets and then I can’t even stay on paper. I’ve talked to a few people and they say I have either extreme copper fouling in my barrel or bedding issues with my stock. I’ve tried removing the copper with pro shot copper solvent and I cannot get the patches clean they have all been blue and I’ve done it at least 10 times. Any ideas or any help would be great.
Hello Conner, I would start off by checking the common things like the action screws to the manufacturers torque settings. Then work your way up towards the mount, and rings. Once all of that is done. I would definitely get some Boretech CU+2 from Midway USA or elsewhere and really take your time removing ALL copper fouling from the barrel. It is ok to let it soak for 10 mins between patches. Once you have done that. Then I would go out to the range and slow fire about 10 fouler shots letting the barrel cool between shots.
There are a lot of other things that need to be asked. 1. What contour barrel do you have?
2. How "hard" was the rifle run in the past? 22-250's don't have a long barrel life but it shouldn't jump off the paper. Typical barrel life for prime accuracy on a 22-250 should last about 1200 rounds easily depending on rate of fire.
start there and let me know how it does. Also, make sure nothing is making contact with the barrel if it is free floated.
I hope this helps, let me know how it all works out. Thanks for watching.
Okay thank you so much I will be sure to follow up. Ive also thought about just sending the thing to Weatherby if I can't figure it out.@@XRING
Conner Young My pleasure Connor.
I found that the barrel was making contact with the stalk so I sanded it out to where there is no contact and also I just got all of the copper out of the barrel I think. The patches aren't blue anymore anyway. Im still waiting on weather to cooperate to go test the gun. @@XRING
Conner Young Nice! Looking forward to hearing on how it does.
What scope is that?
Do you put hoppes on every patch or just first one and then dry ones after till they come out clean?
CCWstraightshooter Hoppes on every patch. Then dry patch before switching chemicals.
X-RING how often do you use a sweets or butches bore shine? One every cleaning or a couple times per year as copper really builds up? Or only during barrel break in?
CCWstraightshooter I never use those any longer. Only Boretech Copper remover for all my rifles.
X-RING bortech on every clean?
After I purchased my first precision rifle, I opened this video and a tab in my browser (Amazon). Got Pretty well everything you use in this video. I have an axis precision II, and I had to take apart the stock to accommodate the rod (It isn’t foldable). The handle was at a very slight angle, and at times wasn’t easy to push all the way through. It’s my first rifle, so I’m a bit nervous. I was worried about the jag causing damage to the barrel, but am I right to assume the likely cause of damage to a precision rifle is from the debris caught on the rod, and not necessarily the jag because the jag is a softer metal than the barrel? I ask because my first pass through, I got the jag through, and handle brought up against the stock, putting a decent flex on the rod. I’m thinking I’m okay, but wouldn’t mind some input. Thanks for the great content!
Repeat after me: a copper brush cannot hurt a steel barrel.
@1Me czcams.com/video/_FVAzn1Yuz8/video.html
Which is harder, rock or water? Yet, the water still wears down the rock over time.
The water carries sediment that erodes the rock.
Hoppe's will remove copper very well contrary to popular belief. Well enough that I don't use my Sweet's any longer.
Any opinion on J-B cleaning compounds?
kogk1943 I have it and only use it on rifles that I am having a hard time from getting the copper removed. It is good to keep around for those situations.
I go 600 rounds are soo without cleaning copper out. You want a good copper equilibrium in a barrel to much are to little will make your groups open up are poi shift.If you don’t want any copper in a barrel how can you shoot a 100-200 round match? Copper will build up and change your poi due to your barrel speeding up.
Good points Tommy. After every major match 100-200 rounds I completely strip all of the copper and start fresh. I will make sure I have about 20 rounds down the pipe and it just sets till the next time. It’s just how I do it and it seems to work well for me.
Do you have to worry about copper in a 22LRP rimfire?
Not if you are shooting lead bullets. AlMost everyone uses Lapua or Eley for that and they are just solid lead. If you are using a copper spun bullet then yes, you might want to get the copper out occasionally
The only thing I do differently is that after the initial cleaning when I walk away and let the bore soak I do it with the rifle vertical, muzzle down on a balled up white sock in a Tupperware bowl so that the bottom half of the bore doesn't clean twice as good as the top 12 o'clock of the bore since the liquid runs down with gravity. I actually remove the chamber protector and give a few extra drops into the chamber to run down to the carbon ring and help loosen that too and all the fluid runs to the muzzle and leaves a blue or green stain on the old white sock or t-shirt cut out. Once I have done this a few times I take an old bore brush and wrap a patch around it and insert it into the throat and hand turn it a few times and watch the carbon ring disappear. (I use wipe-out bore cleaner, shooters choice, then flush with 99% alcohol or mineral spirits. When dry I leave a light coat of Hoppe's no.9 )