Why Your Paint Isn't Drying Properly
Vložit
- čas přidán 15. 06. 2024
- I get many questions about various issues with paint not drying correctly. In this video we talk about some of the causes of those problems, and what you can do to avoid them.
Find some of my favorite products: www.amazon.com/shop/bradangove
Check out the guitar kits and luthier tools I use: www.solomusicgear.com/?ref=1512
Support the channel: / bradangove
Or by PayPal donation to: Brad@Angove.biz
Follow me on instagram: / brad.angove
Follow my Facebook: / bradangovepainting
My favourite spray guns: www.warwickspraytools.com/dea... (Use coupon code: BRAD10%)
Don't forget to ask your questions in the comment section.
Thanks for watching.
To get in touch with me with your questions, photos, etc. use the links below!
Follow me on Twitter: / brad_angove - Hudba
I have just watched a video about paint drying.
🤣
Lol the new way to watch paint dry
I have just responded to a comment about watching paint dry.
My biggest problem is impatience! I'm like "It's good". Then I'm like "Oh shit".
Quite right, DayRider; been there, done that -- more than once! Best, most basic advice I can offer is: don't hurry.
Ya, that’ll get ya. I’ve heard a lot of questions coming from the “spray first ask questions later” group haha.
That's why I'm here now reading this. I keep saying I'm not a Doctor so I don't have patience. So I learn the hard way. At 75 you would think I would know that more is not always better.
Funny guy 😂 lol
Thankyou my friend. Straight to the point.
I was drying my spray painted metal junction boxes with a wide open window, and applying it way too thick.
Thanks G
Great information Brad.
Thank you for covering this information.
And I believe EVERYONE has applied paint too heavily at one time or another.
Ya, I’m sure it’s happened to all of us.
Sweet! Another vid from Brad. 😎 Thanks, brother! 👍
Its nice to come across someone who actually knows what they're talking about. I did automotive refinishing but most, if not all, of it seems like it applies just the same to guitars.
There are lots of options for guitars, but when you’re spraying the concepts are very similar to automotive work.
Thanks for another informative video. That’s the beauty of the catalyzed automotive base coat/clear coat system. Spray, flash in 15-20, spray, rinse and repeat. No sanding in between coats and if you use Speedokote like I do, in one hour you can color sand and buff. Thin hard finish, deep gloss and I can spray up to 80% humidity.
Ya, that’s good stuff. The extra fast hardening is helpful, especially in warm conditions.
Absolutely top informative video mate!! 👍🏼
Good points. Years ago when I started refinishing guitars by first project guitar took literally years to really harden. All because I put on too much paint. I couldn't keep it in a case because the texture of the lining would emboss itself on the guitar. I had to leave it hanging up. It finally hardened and looks good. I still have it and play but I learned my lesson.
Yikes. I’m glad it finally hardened.
Thanks Brad. Very informative content, good job
Thanks Steven
I was taught by a older gentleman about 30yrs ago to spray light coats about 3 layers and wait about 10 minutes between coats. This gives you a base covering that will dry and give it a chance to vapor off as he said. Wait about a half hour, then lay on a thicker layer moving slower then you spayed the first coats. Also mind your over laps and distance away from what your spraying. Of course we used a paint booth with heat, bright lights, and controlled humidity. I practice the same with rattle cans. No booth of course . But I lay down a couple sealer coats as they are called. Check for problems. If none , start my final coat or coats building up the layers. But like you said environment and temperature play a big roll in the finish. So does patients!
Thanks for your video Brad.
Thanks Wallace. Ya, you used to have to do a tack coat for your clear work as well. Luckily, although some of the specifics change as the compounds improve, a lot of these concepts stay constant.
This man's trying to help ppl need to quit being rude he's trying.God bless
Thank you. I think anyone who posts on CZcams hopefully realizes that they will have to deal with the nonsense that comes with dealing with some people on CZcams haha.
Great video. Super helpful. Thank you.
Great information Brad ! I have had problems with Rustoleum spray paint here on the Niagara Peninsula because of the humidity levels here so I use Krylon spray paint for all my spray painting now and haven't had any problems with it. I do however use Rustoleum gloss clear coats and that dries just fine.
Intriguing. I wonder why that would be the case.
@@BradAngove It must have to do with the drying agent they use, I wonder if other people have experienced the same thing.
I like your painting videos. That's what drew me to your channel. I loved your interview with Texas toast on Sunday. That was funny. You should do interviews more often.😉
Like I said on that video, I think that’s the best I’ve ever looked.
As usual - great stuff dude!!!
Thanks Jay
The more you wait (between coats) the better. Learnt it the hard way!
Aaaaand now I know why the headstock I just painted is still soft - Thx Brad!
Glad I could help.
Roberto venn grad?
Huge Help! I've been repainting a customer's bike for the last 2 months, using that paint you had in your video, didn't realize how it takes soo long, I usually can paint and dry within 3-5 days max... this one never dried now I know why... thanks!
Glad I could help
Another good informative video brad !!
Thanks Terry!
My protocol for oil-based enamels such as RUSTOLEUM. Paint, let dry in front of a fan for 24 hours. Repeat as needed.
Then, let dry in front of the fan for a few more days.
If the parts are small enough, into the kitchen oven they'll go for 170°F for a few days. You'll be able to tell when the scent of off-gassing thinners is absent.
I'm currently on day 5 of a bake of 5.5"x25"x1/2" squares of steel to be used for ballast 20 lb. counter-weight plates. They have more than half a dozen paint coats applied. The plates are too big to fit in the oven. But, in a metal trash can with a 500 watt halogen shop light? Perfect!
The off-gassing isn't detectable anymore with the plates. So, come tomorrow morning, I'll unplug the halogen light and allow everything to cool down. The paint will be fully cured and the plates ready for installation!
Thanks a lot for the tips!
Very helpful. Thank you.
Here in San Francisco, summer is like 60 Fahrenheit, windy, humid, and usually foggy, sometimes with visible waves of water vapor sweeping through off the ocean. I paint outdoors, so I always have to wait for the few-and-far-between nice painting days.
That’s does make things more difficult. By a long shot. Here the hardest part is finding somewhere warm enough to paint in the winter.
Thanks for your brilliant help. I tried cellulose thinner and it seems to have worked
Glad to hear it
Trapped, unevaporated solvents, because I never realized that from time to time... I'm doing the exact thing that you said you should not do.
Thanks, Brad. Without this video... I'd still be scratchin my head.
Glad I could help
This is actually why I started watching your videos way back I sanded down a wooden pool cue stained it then used Rust-Oleum clear gloss enamel on top but everyone was telling me to layer up the clear till the can was empty so of course I did I took good care to make the perfect conditions to paint I was very careful to do light coats but for one pool cue I used an entire can of clear I will admit it did look beautiful but two months after I painted it there could still be dents and divots left behind from anything it was leaning against it even got a bubbly texture from a soft cushion I left it on thinking I was just damaging it on hard edges ended up sanding the whole thing off watching a few of your videos and I finally got it right
Yikes. That is a common mistake with spray cans. For some reason people think “the more paint, the better”. Which, as you know, I disagree with.
@@BradAngove ya I know better thanks to you and your channel and ive been a fan ever since now I'm thinking about taking this next stimulus check if we ever get it and buying a cheap paint gun set up and going back through all your old videos and teach myself to paint ive always been interested in trying to be an automotive body shop painter just never had time to take off to go to any classes and when I have the time I don't have the money but I figured between your videos and that next check and the time I have off I might as well learn a new trade
Nice, I hope that goes well for you. It’s a fun one.
@@BradAngove thanks I appreciate it bud
👍 Great advice! Thanks 😁
Very clear...more light coats with mucho drying time good. :)
Indeed
Great informative tutorial.
Your tutorial is very professional, thorough and straight to the point. It’s ranks with one of the best I’ve seen on CZcams yet.⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️
I appreciate that Lenard. Thank you.
Hey Brad,
I've just watched a bunch of your videos, and have a question that's specific to my use case (I think).
Right now, it's typically 10-30f degrees outside, and I'm spraying in the garage that i briefly pre-heat with a propane heater before going out there. What I've been doing, is not only heating the paint cans up in buckets of hot water in the house, but also heating up the parts with my Craftsman tornado propane heater right before I spray. So while the environment is most likely around 40-45f after being heated with the heater, it's still very cold. Immediately after spraying, the parts get set in front of the propane heater until they are dry to the touch, at which point I bring them inside to dry for 24 hours. (with a fan in a ventilated area away from common areas).
I'm pretty new to spray painting in general, and have not been doing any 'recoats' at all. I'll spray the parts in one session, usually going over the whole part a total of two times. And then I let it dry from there. as opposed to spraying...waiting 10-20 minutes. spraying again, waiting, and then doing the 24 hour wait.. Is it bad to do this? I heard you mention allowing too much time in-between each coat can prevent chemical bonds. So far my process has been
1. sand to bare metal 2. alcohol wipe clean 3. tack cloth wipe 4. coat 1 of self etching primer (this is metal) 5. Wait 24 hours then 240 grit sand, wipe, tack wipe, 2nd primer coat (sanded too much primer on the corners XD). 6. Wait 24 hours, then 240 grit sand, wipe, tack wipe, 1st coat of paint.
I then repeated this same process with 2nd and 3rd paint coats, 1 coat per 24 hours. My 3rd paint coat is drying, and it looks like I have great coverage, so i was going to start clear coating. But I'm afraid that my 3 sessions of no 1 spray wiht no recoats is insufficient, where I should really have 3 session of 3 coats per session.
Thank you so much for your awesome videos.
This guy's a genius
I just built a large poster frame when it was around 60-70 degrees here in Missouri right before the new year. Then it cold snapped down to the teens in temperature but I didn’t want to wait till it warmed up. So I put a portable heater in the garage with me and sprayed two thin coats of gray primer on the frame. Let them dry for a bit to where I could touch the paint and it was not tacky. Then I lightly sprayed on coats of satin black enamel paint and waited 15 minutes in between coats. The only tricky part is I had to open the garage and ventilate in between each coat and wait for the temp to come back up. Garage door controlled said I never fell below 59 degrees but I doubt it really would show a drastic drop in temps.
So now I have the frame all done but I didn’t want to leave it in the garage with a heater all night so I turned that off and let it sit over night and it’s super tacky now. But I did bring it inside and have it in a small room with that heater and I am cycling it on full blast on heat for an hour and a half and then off and the door open for the same time and it is slowly getting dry. I figure doing this the rest of the day and then letting it sit for a while will help for sure.
Great video!! 😁👍
Great video, now I am feeling bad about to not watch it before I ruined my guitar :D I paint my guitar with too thick paint coats with acrylic paint. Paint is after month still gummy. Now I think about to wait another month if it dry or repaint. But the answer is maybe very easy.
Please keep chastising. It is the clearest way for me to learn to fix beginner problems. Thanks for the lesson.
Thanks for the great content, Brad. I fight with the weather here in the gator country of SE Texas. As I type it's 92*F, 51% humidity, heat index 101*F at 16:20... Every day is a challenge here without a climate controlled booth!!
Yikes. That’s brutal.
@@BradAngove Right? Painting here is acetitone friendly in the summer. Or something... Paint even sweats here! Lol!
Thanks. X.
Now I know why it won't dry. I was trying to hurry before it started raining. My job is All ruined.😢
Excellent! I just sanded down some coat and found the undried layer. Still sticky. But there's more! I sanded down radiatorpaint! It went quietly! Easy to remove from a guitarbody. And added black montana gold. Round the edges. After 30 min i added cellulose coat. No problem either with black or the thin remains of radiatorwhite. But rain however, doesn't take well to cellulose lacquer. So tomorrow is sanding day again. U know drying the paint with an electric fan is that clever? The type u can have to warm your feet in the car? Or a small apartment. Must be great. Here we go!
Be careful if you’re using a heat lamp or something similar to dry your paint. One of my viewers accidentally lit his guitar on fire doing that.
Brad any chance you could provide a video like this about staining a guitar with either water or solvent based types please as well as oil finishes. I know you tested out the Crimson stunning stains and it maybe something you could give people advice about that don’t paint their guitars. Many thanks
I can do a video about that, yes. Good idea.
I needed that
In my next video, I am starting a redo of the first guitar I painted - where I did exactly what you mention here: too thick coats, too soon. Two YEARS later, it’s still not fully dry. Time to strip it and do something crazy instead.
I hope the next one goes well for you.
Brad Angove You heard it here first: I’m going to do something weird and use mica powder for a shimmery finish. Total experiment. Step one is though, is breaking down the tacky awfulness that was the current guitar. That video just went live (not here to link spam, just take my word for it). 😆
Hey Brad, once again great info and advice for us amateurs. I live in the dry desert and oddly getting blushing after applying thin coats of sanding sealer. I stained the body with trans tint mixed with denatured alcohol. Any suggestions or advice would be greatly appreciated. Maybe my coats aren’t as light as I thought?
That could be part of the issue. Are you using spray cans or a gun?
You are becoming my go-to man :) How do they deal with degassing/recoat windows when doing those multi tone layer candy´s ? I have seen people laminating base, stripes/motives, metallic, pearl and several tones of candy before end sealing with a several layers of clear just for good measure to sand down a showroom flat
The safest way in my view is to do your 2-3 coats and then, within the appropriate recoat window, hit it with a midcoat clear. That preserves what you’ve done and also allows for a barrier that you can sand for adhesion and flatness before moving on (after adequate drying time of course).
Thanks so much for your videos! You’ve been my only guide pretty much as I finish my first guitar. So the fingernail test… should my nail leave no imprint at all on a spraymax 2k clear coat before moving to sanding and polishing? Should I start in a few days anyway?
It shouldn’t really leave any marks after about 24 hours. I would start sanding and polishing after 24-48 hours if possible.
It’s good you are shaming us, it’s how most of us learn. Thanks Brad!!
Hahaha
Great Brad informative as usual. Any tips on wipe on poly? Saw a tutorial that said wipe on then wait a few minutes then wipe off. However the instructions on the tin said wipe on generously and wait 1-2 hours then sand and apply next coat. Kind of confusing so was hoping you could shed some light on the right way. Thanks Brad.
The wipe on wipe off method is for oil. Poly is a film finish and shouldn’t be applied that way. Follow the instructions on the can, and keep the coats relatively light.
Brad Angove thank you that makes mire sense
You have probably covered this at some point, but what is the best way to hold/hang a set neck guitar while finishing? I’ve heard an eyelet in the body where the strap button will eventually be, which seems like it would work. Others have said a wire through the tuner holes, which doesn’t seem like it would work well. Also, I live in an area that always has some level of humidity. I’ve heard that you don’t want to paint (lacquer) when it is 70% or more. Is there an ideal humidity?
Either of those options work. I prefer the hook screwed into the bottom strap button hole, but I’ve hung them from the tuning leg holes before. You just need something stiff so it doesn’t contact the headstock too much.
Less humidity is better for lacquer. When you get into the higher humidity ranges you can add a bit of retarder to help avoid blushing.
Ty
Love your channel sir. Is there a way to fix the apparently not ever fully drying surface?
You can try putting it somewhere relatively warm for a while. Sometimes that helps.
thanks man
I would add that some types of lacquer never gets fully hard and are engineered to be soft, to be used on Sea equippment
Good point
Hey brad, im painting on metal, tremclad aluminum, it doesnt really want to drive despite only putting on the last coat thicker, it still rubs off on my hand slightly.. Just wondering would a heat gun help the curing process? Whats your typical curing time with tremclad ? Some people complain it takes much too long to dry properly.
I’ve had some issues with it before. Sometimes it takes weeks. Some people have had issues with it never quite hardening. If it’s been on there for more than a few days you could try a heat gun. Just don’t get too close or you will melt the paint instead of baking it.
Have you ever used preval spray? I want to mix polyurethane with a color to get a hue effect and spray it but I'm not sure if it's better to wipe it on instead
I haven't used one, but I have heard the work relatively well.
Hey Brad,
Thanks for another awesome video.
My question is.... what is the fix if we have already sprayed too thick...etc? and we have a situation where our paint ( in my case 2k clear) is still soft underneath? do we sand back and start again?
You can try putting it somewhere very warm for a few days, but if that doesn’t work then yes you would sand back.
@@BradAngove legend 👍👍👍
Here I am watching painting tutorial. Last time I used this knowledge for impregnating my rain coat. Human watching habits will remain a mystery :v
Nonetheless thanks that you are sharing this knowledge. I hope that someday I'll have a chance to paint a guitar and it will be good
Thanks for watching. I hope your prospective paint job goes well.
Wish I had seen this before taking on a new project. My painting looks horrible with markings as I touch/moved/handled it too quickly (hours) after finishing. Now I am not sure if it will ever gonna dry (acrylic spray paint), guess I'll just leave it as it is for 6 weeks and see how it gonna be like then
Try to keep it somewhere as warm and dry as possible.
Hi Brad, great info as always. I bought few metal pendant lights but they are silver color so i decided to spray them white and i think that i spray painted them too thick. First, they already have color on them which was silver, they i spray white color and the color was not even so i sprayed them like 4/5 layer of coats, then because the color was still not even, i sprayed primer coz i think that would help before i spray them again and now im having the problem where it was still not dried up properly and it is almost a week now. Can u tell me how can i start again and fix this?
You need to remove the paint and start again with much less. You can try using acetone or paint stripper to take the paint off. Or scrape and sand it.
Hey, Brad! I spray paint a lot of 3D prints that I then have to mail. I put bubblewrap around these painted prints and everything does just fine EXCEPT for Rustoleum's bright copper spray paint with the metallic finish. What ends up happening is during shipping the bubble wraps presses into the paint, thus failing the fingernail test. None of my other metallic paints give me this issue. Should I be waiting days in between spraying coats?
I’ve always had difficulty with the durability of those reflective finishes. I think applying it in very light coats might help.
Any thoughts about using different colored paint & primer (all Krylon max) as an under layer on a canvas? I bought. all this beautiful artist quality paint but didn’t have-black or white when I need to start my next canvas. So I went for it. I’m kind of in limbo now.. maybe a quick sand yeah? I’m reluctant to proceed with the artist quality if I’m painting on a poorly prepped substrate .:any advice would be vert welcomed. Thank you
I’ve done that sort of thing before. There are several kinds of artist paint though so you should test and make sure what you have is compatible with your surface prep.
I’m painting cornhole boards using Krylon paint. One I painted color designs with color and primer directly on the wood and then painted clear glossy over. However I got some bleeding in the grain of the wood from the color below the tape. So the next one I painted the clear first with about two coats. Next day I taped off for the color designs and got a sharper line. However after waiting next day I painted both again with clear. The one with clear on top of the color after sanding with steel wool, the clear came out very glossy. The other one with the color on top of the clear and also sanding with steel wool and also wiped down with a little alcohol, that one the color got crinkled and the clear was dull. Then next day I sanded the color smooth and used tack cloth and painted one coat of color and after 10 mins painted the clear. Still a little rough and did the same the next day with sanding and clear. Board is smooth now but clear is still dull. I can’t understand why i got different results. One dull and one glossy. And the one that’s glossy is a not a slippery surface. It’s not tacky but it seems so smooth that the bean bag won’t slide on top of the board.
Is there anything I can do to fix this?
When you say dull, what do you mean? Hazy/cloudy? Or not shiny?
@@BradAngove not shiny. I did put another coat on and it’s a little more shiny. However now the tops of the boards are not slippery for the bean bags to slide on. Would it make sense to rub them down with wax paper or what else can I do to make them slippery?
Oh, they’re sticking to the gloss? That’s no surprise. If you don’t mind losing a little shine I would flat sand them with some 2000 or 2500 grit paper. That should make them slippery.
It has been about a week since 2K clearcoat and about 3-4 weeks since coloring the guitar. My thumbnail still causes a slight indentation. Does this mean it won't ever dry and I should just put the guitar back together? I would imagine since I did the clear coat already, it's too late to dry. Thank you for always being so helpful.
That is surprising. Has the guitar been stored somewhere very cold?
2K continues to harden for at least a couple weeks, so I would keep it somewhere warm and dry for another week or so and then check it again.
@@BradAngove it is stored in my house which is around 70 degrees at all times. I may just need to let it cure for a month or so.
Hi. Thank you for this video.
Question.
If the too thick too fast is the problem and is dry on the surface but if i press to hard in it i can see my finger print or nail mark will eventually dry? Or is it a done deal?
How can i help this issue? Should i let it site for more time? Weeks or month.
Is a table i painted. Been 2 weeks now. And i painted it in my garage. One day weather was hot next cold. Hot as 85 then cold as 65. Virginia weather sucks.
I’ve heard of people fixing that carefully with a heat gun, but I have generally found that the paint needs to be sanded off.
I'm wanting to paint fishing lures with acrylic paint. I'm putting the paint on very thin without thinning the paint but it still pulls together and leaves bare patches! I've cleaned the aluminium foil beforehand with 99.9% isopropanol alcohol and allowed to dry. Any advice would be gratefully received. Merry Christmas and a Happy & Healthy New Year.
Have you abraded it?
Please help ! I just thinned Day Glo Fluorescent paints and sprayed them on wood in thin coats like a stain. Thinned it with paint thinner as suggested on the can . Now the paint has dried powdery and can be rubbed right off . Would sealing it with a matte lacquer stop this ? I don’t have time to repaint it . And there will be lots of people walking around near it and possibly on it in the morning. I’m so upset! It looked GORGEOUS and I was so proud til I touched it and saw it powdering away. It’s a Blacklight mini golf course in a rental house . I’ll not have any time to redo it . Sorry for the long post . I have Deft matte clear spray laquer . Doesn’t seem to interfere with the black light glow.
Lacquer should seal it in, but it’s also pretty toxic. I’d be very hesitant to have a bunch of freshly lacquered wood in a home with a lot of people walking around.
Thank you so much for your information. I used a oil paint on a dresser . I did exactly what you said , I applied and I didn't wait long enough to apply the next coat . Its been a little over a week an half and its still sticky to touch . What can I do about this stickyness so I can finally get it out of the garage and in my house. Please help ! Thank you!
What kind of oil paint was it? Artist style oil paint? That stuff actually always takes a long time to dry.
@@BradAngove varathane wood stain. Today I decided to prime it and chalk paint it tomorrow. Im so done with this piece!!! Lol. My email is IrisSadowski@yahoo.com. i will send you pictures. . Thank you so very much for replying to me!! 😊😊😊😊☺
Good morning . I dyed my les Paul guitar body with craftnique dye , can you go over that with tru oil or will it smear or run . I know it has nothing to do with this video but I had to ask
Thank you Frank
I haven’t tried a tru oil over that dye. I suggest doing a test piece before attempting it on your guitar. The craftnique dye is intended to go under the crystalac lacquer.
I recently painted my front porch with Valspar Oil Porch and Floor paint. It looks great and is dry to the touch but doesn't pass the fingernail test after a full 7 days of drying. Do you think it needs longer to fully cureor could there be another issue? It's been pretty warm here in NC with lots of rain lately, but we've had the porch covered with plastic to hopefully help keep it protected.
Has there been decent air flow? How long does the can say it takes to dry?
@@BradAngove At first, no. But once the rain stopped I did open up the plastic for better air flow, maybe I just delayed curing lol. It seems to be hardening, just slowly. My nail still leaves a mark but not nearly as bad now.
So Brad, I'm in Houston, so humidity is a fact of life. No way around it. I typically spray in the garage and then take the guitar inside the A/C to dry. Does that work that ok? Also, I am working on a guitar now and planning on duplicolor base with the spraymax 2k clear. How long should I let the duplicolor dry before spraying the clear coats?
Mark Rup That Spraymax 2K is very toxic and smells awful, so consider that before keeping it inside to dry right after you spray it.
Having the humidity there right at the time of spraying can be an issue, and of course having the solvents gas off in your home isn’t ideal. You may want to consider using a small portable ac in your garage to help limit humidity. Or a dehumidifier. I generally wait about a week after the duplicolor before spraying the spraymax.
Are there any sort of dehydration drying chamber we can put the painted objects in that's not a heated chamber? I have 3D printed props that can't take any heat.
You can use an air conditioner to remove humidity. Or a dehumidifier.
Great video I was spray painting a action figure some of his armour wasn't drying and it was the soft plastic does that have to do something with the drying also I use the mubah spray paint brand
I’m not familiar with that brand. Is it any good?
@@BradAngove it's alright
Ok I learned something!
Just did a beautiful candy violet lacquer (duplicolor no mix auto) over a metallic gold base with gold flake over it.
I’m sure I layed over too many coats too fast, and tried to get after the orange peel after 2 days! And it’s very humid.🤦🏻♂️
(And yeah, I’m doing it all over again)
Sorry to hear that. It can be difficult to get the timing figured out with that type of finish.
@@BradAngove I’m not sure what it is, as I seem to have the same problem
(Never harden) with both poly and lacquer.
It’s gotta be too many coats too fast. I can find no other explanation.
The humidity can also be an issue with that type of paint.
I recommend this video to any rookies like me who made all the mistakes this video tells you to avoid.
Hopefully it will help!
I feel sooooo chastised.😂😂😂😂😂 I learned. Give time to dry between coats, allow it to cure. And don't drive a Cadillac. Or was that catalyst??
I’m not sure I would drive either one of those. Maybe a catalytic converter?
Is there a way to speed up the drying time of spray paint tho?
I would like to sand my primer ASAP would I need to leave it 24hrs to fully cure as it says on the can or would it be workable before this? Would you also wait 24hrs before putting on colour ?
Even professional auto refinishers typically give it about a day. You can speed up some kinds by keeping them somewhere very warm, like a heated paint booth.
I bought this awesome new cheap clear... got the gallon and hardener for 50 bucks! Sprayed so darn well... and on the first couple pieces I did, it hardened up beautifully. Well the last four attempts, after 3 days I can still press the edge of my fingernail in and get it to leave a mark on this 2k urethane clear coat... something is up! I am about to start using more hardener than it calls for.
You’re not spraying in a cold area are you?
@@BradAngove Upstate NY. It is winter time! We had a few warm evenings... base and primer went on just fine but I am guessing you are right that it just wasn't warm enough for it. Is that the case?
That could certainly be the case. Even catalyzed clears dry better when warm. In fact many of them are designed to be applied in a booth that is then heated to cure them.
@@BradAngove Yeah... after I sent the comment to you I kind of thought more about it. The first piece I did where it worked perfectly it was almost 70 out... everything else was 55 to 60... thats gotta be it. Why anyone would live in NY I have no clue. Nothing but high taxes and shit weather. Thanks for the reply sir, I am impressed at how you get to everyone with a channel of your size.
@@glytch5 below 55-60 it almost completely stops curing.
How did it end up now? Did you get the hard surface or did a redo?
Does any one have some good experience rattle can painting gun slides? Particularly with Krylon metallics.
In general, is there any time limit on putting a clear coat on after all else is done
No, not generally.
So I spray painted a plastic bumper. Sanded, adhesion promoter, filler primer, sanded and painted. The guy at the auto store I bought the spray paint from said the paint has clear coat in it so there was no need to spray a clear coat on it. I painted the bumper and faced it on it's face to screw on some parts and some paint was left on the cloth it was laying on. Obviously it is not fully dry. Should I spray some clear coat on it? If so, do I have to wait until it's fully dry to spray the clear coat or can I do it now?
What kind of paint did you use?
Hi Brad. I'm using a Mohawk Black Satin Lacquer Enamel on my guitar. How long should I let it dry between coats? Seems to dry pretty fast. Also, I want to apply a Mohawk Pre-Catalyzed Clear Satin Lacquer. How long should I wait to apply that and since the paint and clear are both satin, do I have to sand the paint before I apply the clear satin?
The word enamel in there is throwing me off. Are you sure it’s an enamel?
The lacquers typical can go on within just a few minutes of each other for two or three passes. Then you wait 4 hours and do a few more. Then way a day. Same waiting period before clear lacquer usually.
@@BradAngove Thanks Brad. Yes, the paint type was confusing to me also. It's labeled as "Mohawk, Colored Lacquer Enamel - Black Satin" (M104-S224) so I assumed it was an Enamel. One more question, do I have to sand before I apply the clear satin or just apply without sanding since they are both satin finishes?
That is basically what happened to me. I sprayed 2 light coats and then, after 10 minutes, a very thick third coat. Three days later, it still looks tacky at the touch, and I really hope it to dry properly. It seems to be drying, sooner or later, but I can't tell it. Anyways, if it won't dry in a week, I'm planning to remove some material with a relatively fine grit like 320 or so. Fortunately, the conditions are perfect. Warm and dry.
Hello is your coats dried ? İ sanded one of my figure and ı sprayed all of the parts so carefully but after 4 days that was still sticky
@@Kiryulookingatsky yes It did. I had to wait a couple more days, and then I sprayed the clear coat. It dried in less than 24 hours to the touch, but I decided to wait 7 days, just to be sure. I sanded out up to 2000, compound, polish and wax. Now, I'm givin'it another week of time, even if it's apparently ok. It is very hot here, and I didn't expect such a long drying time, but here I am. Better to wait than to regret.
@XPhantomLord oh that’s good to hear thank you so much for the reply :D
is it a good idea to use a blow dryer (for hair) on clear coat? ive done it before and usually its still soft.
At what stage? I generally wouldn’t for clear but I’ve used it for acrylic colour coats before.
What about water based dye stain? I have applied a light coat to my tele kit (after I sanded it completely). 10 days have passed and it is dry enough for me to hold and handle...but if I pinch it hard it feels tacky. Any ideas?
Water based stain should dry very quickly. Try putting it under a fan and see what happens.
I useed rust oleum 2x primer .but now no paint will cure over top.
Yeah I fucked up a Ibanez destroyer one time, I was to excited to get finished and I think I rushed the clear, it took like 3 weeks to dry and become solid, I ended up selling it later after a while lol, now I know what probably happened! Won't do that again!
Well at least now I guess you won’t have that problem again haha.
@@BradAngove yeah exactly man, I'm better at playing them than painting them lol!, check out my channel sometime you might like some tunes on there.🤘
My clear coat is still soft after 2 months, I wonder why, even I do flash off between coat according to instructions of clear coat, but it's still soft😢, please help me, thanks in advance, and sorry for my English.
I’m trying to spray paint a controller and I think I applied the bottom coat too heavy like you said. How do I fix that because you said not to sand wet paint?
Wait for it to dry and then sand it.
We just painted our hallway floor and steps. We first used a kilz and then we did our semi gloss. The floor is very tacky. Help! Thanks
Did you spray it?
well most of my problem is that most matte coats turn out tacky specially on pvc and soffter plastics, the only matte spray that i havent had problems with is tamiya
Are you using a plastic compatible primer first?
@@BradAngove yeah, i usually use a duplicolor primer but for some reason when i use rubber or softer pvc matte sprays just dont workout well, some matte finnishers turnout the same as well
This is why if it's small enough we paint with rust oleum inside a tanning bed lower the top down after painting and then 20 minutes in UV light. Don't look at it it will hurt your eyes and cure it out like nail salons. Some LED light will cure out paint as well. Just remember don't look at the sun nor a tanning bed without eye protection from ultra Violet light after painting.
I’ve just spray painted my bmx with rust oleum enamel I stupidly repainted before the previous coats were dry , it’s been 3 days and is ok to touch but feels wouldn’t pass the fingernail test , it’s been pretty cold . If it doesn’t dry what should I do ? Wet and dry sand ? Any suggestions would be appreciated.
Try gently heating it up with a heat gun. Sometimes that helps.
@@BradAngove
Thanks mate , will do 👍
Have you had any problems mixing your enamel paint with a non enamel paint? I’ve heard stories & I’m hoping they’re not true. Thank you so much 😊
Yes, enamel doesn’t play well with other paints usually.
Rust-Oleum 2k purple? One light dust. 20 min........second coat thin but even nice coverage.
25 min then touched to sticky tack but no gloppy or stringing out.
Final thin coat approx 4" more distance.
No clear.
Temp in Ohio was at 87 mid humidity.
Day 3 as of now still having light nail indentation.
Will sanding back with my 800 help de-gas. Or should I give it a few weeks to cure then sand for my final+clear together within flashing spec? Opinions*
Applying to 1959 Schwinn Corvette trike. Original Chicago made steel covered in black high build sandable primer. (Brand not remembered but from AutoZone.
I also wondered if it may be reaction to primer or how long that can was on the shelf
Rustoleum doesn’t have a 2K as far as I know. Their painters touch stuff can easily take a few weeks to dry fully and pass the fingernail test.
@@BradAngove yes, it's 2k ultra cover purple. Paint + prime gloss.
2x you mean?
@@BradAngove yes, sorry for that.
No worries. That stuff doesn’t have a catalyst like an actual 2K would. Depending on how heavy it’s on there it can take a few weeks to dry. Sanding might help a bit, but if it’s soft you could end up with a mess and your paper will gum up immediately.
I find acrylic is a absolute pain to dry and for me the conditions have to be perfect and its just not cost effective if painting a guitar. That's why I paint 90% of the time in nitro or polly. And I like the feel of nitro over the plastic feel of polly. But lots of people watch a few videos and think they can get factory results withcar paints froma can but that doesn't happen very often. How's the build going?
Ya, acrylics can be very easy to use in some conditions, and very finicky in others.
The build is coming along nicely. I’m waiting on a few parts before I can continue, which isn’t great because I’m running out of time, but it’ll be good.
@@BradAngove awesome dude can't wait to see it....
I’m hoping to post a solid update tomorrow, but my computer is broken so I need to try to get that fixed today in order for it to happen.
@@BradAngove not much going your way mate! I'm sure it will all come good in the end..
One can hope haha.
Hi,
I used DecoArt clear pouring topcoat. It made my paintings extremely sticky. So sticky that I was unable to put anything on it, not even a frame. How do I fix this?
Try keeping it somewhere very warm for a couple weeks perhaps. Your best bet is to ask the manufacturer. I dont use that product.
I'm using liquitex acrylic spray paint for my first try at painting a guitar. I am terrified of touching it since it's water based and seems like it will take a long time to dry
How are you applying it?
@@BradAngove I applied it how you recommend to apply sprays with the overlapping runs but since it sprays thicker than standard cans it went on pretty heavy. I tested with my finger nail and it is definitely getting there though :) give it a few more days to settle and I'll do a 2nd much lighter coat to cover some patchy areas
Ok, I see. Liquitex is available in a few formats so I wasn’t sure if you were using spray cans or something else.
you could always heat up the paint can and object being painted with a heat gun. The paint can will work better, and the paint will dry a little faster when the object being painted is warm
It can, but that can also cause cracking in the paint when it cools down and shrinks.
I really hope you reply. I've spray painted a wooden box & sprayed too much. It's not drying. Staying shiny and wet looking (it's a satin spray) How can I fix it? Wipe off? Or will that leave it really messy/uneven? Helpppppp xx
How long ago did you spray it?
@@BradAngove I'm very happy to say, it has finally dried. It was wet for two days and yesterday I messaged because it was still wet & I thought I had ruined my project! Thank you for getting back to me! Take care :)
So let’s just say “someone” new to guitar finishing used rust oleum acrylic and created a pretty fantastic paint scheme/job, but committed just about all of these errors along the way. He’s having a little problem with the dry top, and mushy underneath…I’d there any way that this guy can save this project?
The only option that comes to mind, and it’s far from a guarantee (probably less than 50% chance of working) is essentially baking it. Put it somewhere really warm and dry, but not in direct sunlight, for a couple days and see if that hardens it.
@@BradAngove thanks for the reply. It’s actually improved a bit in the past couple days. This has been a crazy experience so far. Didn’t know much about paints and finishing before this-not much at all really. Just about every decision so far has been the wrong one….there’s quite a bit to take into consideration. At least I have a base of knowledge going forward. Thanks again
Hi Brad, what Can I do when the paint isn't dry after 2 weeks? Take off the paint, sand or just wait?
Is it just a bit soft? What kind of paint?
@@BradAngove it's synthetic enamel, supost to dry in 5 hours. Probaly I've sprayed too many coats.
Oh, I see. Yeah, the stuff underneath probably won’t dry then. You’ll need to remove it.
I paint wood desk and I wait it for 36hours it look dry but he is not even Ihe look dry but I have a problem of packaging it he leave some traces of plastic packing
What kind of paint?