Excellent tutorial. For my 6-8 cords home heating with mixed hardwoods semi chisel ( Stihl "yellow" non safety) chain in Maine U.S. does the job. Don't forget the rakers.
Wow - this video was just what this 'average' user needed! Thank you. Great description and at the right level for most non-professional users. You said it was 'Boring'? Not at all. And to think I was just about to (wrongly) buy a full chisel chain for my home/novice work. Again, thank you for sharing your knowledge and wisdom.😃 Cheers, Bill.
Great analysis, great video! I've been running chainsaws for near forty years and do a bit of logging in big hardwoods and buck up a lot of locust for stove wood. My preference is the semi chisel for the reasons you elucidate. You're right, the full chisel will cut like a bandit until it dulls even a bit and then you're out of luck... Production for me is about time and saving as much time as possible. More cutting and less sharpening with semi chisel!
This was so helpful thank you James - wish I had know before. I'm running full chisel at the moment on a 50cc but will probably switch to semi in future.
Great video, mate. Very well described with the difference between the two chains. I have only ever used full chisel, but tonight I have ordered a semi chisel chain because I’m cutting some hard dirty wood.
Hi. Many thanks for the comment! You should find that you get more cutting time from the semi chisel before you need to sharpen. Good luck let us know how you get on!
Hi Thank you very much for setting up decent close ups that showed aspects of full and semi chisel side by side, in focus while you moved them together - that was a neat taking advantage of video medium. Also thanks for not bombarding me with music and audio visual gimmicks to artificially grab attention. I've only used semi chisel and am happy with it but I might try one loop of full chisel perhaps in a full skip as am only running a 55cc chainsaw. Thanks again Sincerely d
Hi David. Many thanks for that fantastic feedback it is much appreciated. A 55cc saw is quite powerful. I think you should be able to pull a full chisel no problems as long as it is kept Sharp.
hi @@JamesTheForester In time might try a loop or 2. Perhaps a full skip and a full comp just to see how they go for me. I Use a Stihl FGuide #2, After trying the factory grind I will probably set up for a 30 deg top plate but with 10 deg compound for slightly stronger point. This will also change the 30 top plate to about 27.5 and give just a tiny bit more strength to the point. Thank you very much for your content. I will watch some more in the future. Cheers d
I run a 55cc Redmax GZ550 "professionally". But still learning the basics. I'm very confident bucking up logs and limbing and even cutting down most trees up to aproximatly 18" in diameter. This video was super helpful. I'm searching for a new 20" bar and chain and wasnt' sure what I would need for chisel. I'm leaning towards both. I really like your system for using full chisel when dropping and cutting a tree to length. then switching to a semi chisel when you know it's dirty. I will most likely use a semi chisel since I do brush clearing and I'm always in the dirt.
@@JamesTheForester thanks. Im trying to upgrade to a 20” bar over 18”. I have to figure out what pitch chain. I think .325 and how many teeth my new bar would need ie. 72-78. I know it will be .050 gauge.
I tend to buy the saw based on power and max bar length then see what chain options are available for it. You can use multiple chain/bar/sprocket combos but the powerhead is king. Buy big and reliable and the best quality you can afford.
NOT boring at all, I have finally understood the difference between full/semi chisel chains, thank you that was really useful. Could you find a moment at some point to talk about 'skip' chains? What is being 'skipped'? Why would you use one of those? Are they full or semi chisel? Thanks again ...
Thank you! A skip chain misses out a few teeth. It allows each cutting tooth to take out a much greater amount of wood. But it needs a powerful motor to pull it. 90cc or above?
Chisel chain works better in the soft wood like the Fir, Spruce, Cedar, and Pine like is found on the West Coast of the United States. Semi-Chisel chain works better in hardwood like Oaks, Hickory, Maple, Ashe, Poplar, Walnut, etc.
Homeowner here fun fact, for milling a semi produces a much cleaner cut than a full chisel (both sharpend at 0 degrees). Only really run full on my 660 clone.
Use semi chisel most of the time for hardwoods but was cutting Scots Pine down for a few days before xmas & hardly having to sharpen at all. If I was felling softwoods a lot I would maybe go back to full chisel.
Interesting, well reasoned, I’m scrounging firewood off the ground so I’ll go with semi next time. Sometimes I have to take 1/6th of the tooth off to bring it back but I’m rubbish at keeping the bar off the ground 😂
James, If you are cutting a) clean GREEN hardwood logs..or...b) clean SEASONED hardwood logs which of the two chains would you prefer? Hardwood here is mainly ash and beech in 10 foot lengths. Similarly, would you change chains from full chisel to semi chisel for seasoned softwood, mainly larch and spruce? There is very little on CZcams or the internet forums on this subject, most mainly deal with the topic of cutting dirty wood/fencerows-versus-green wood, and avoid the hardwood/softwood or green/seasoned wood comparison. Would be glad to hear your view on it. Thanks
Seasoned wood is very hard, and is very tough on chains - which are really designed for dealing with fresh wood. So I use a semi chisel as it takes more punishment, whereas full chisel would blunt more quickly. Big fresh stuff I go full chisel if it clean, small fresh wood - whatever saw comes to hand. My smaller saws tend to have more SC to hand as they get used more for dirty urban jobs. Our big forestry saws have more FC to hand.
@@JamesTheForester Many thanks for your reply, James. Lots of very helpful, practical, pragmatic advice and guidelines to put to use in the wood yard, from now on. Much appreciated!
Best video I've found on this subject. Will a 30cc saw handle a .050 chain? My Stihl 193t came with .043 and 14" bar. I was told the .050 performance was better. Any thoughts?
Remfmber that the pitch is the distance between two links but the cutter also tends to be bigger. If you can find a drive sprocket by the same manufacturer of the saw it's worth a try. But a small engine might struggle.
what power you recommended for semi-chisel? 44 іt may guide bar length or may I do not understood set dimension for minimal saw power? Sorry for many questions for this.
Hello James I will have to buy a 28inches/71cm bar(3/8, .050)and a chain to go with it on a 92 cc chainsaw, for medium to big tree for firewood I always worked with semi chisel and I’m not to crazy about having a full chisel as recommended by the dealer, what is your view on this (I don’t do it professionally)
Hi - thanks for the comment! You do need a powerful saw to run a full chisel chain to its full potential, but a semi chisel will also work fine on the same saw - just a little slower in the cut and more forgiving when blunt 🙂
Thanks for the video. Can you clarify for me, do semi chisel and low kickback mean the same thing, or do low kickback chains include other safety features beyond being semi chisel?
Hi. Thanks for the comment. The low kickback is a different design of chain link. It is not the same as semi chisel. I believe Stihl introduced them? and they have a much higher tie strap/link designed to reduce the amount of wood the cutting tooth can grab at once. As a result they are less effective at things like bore cuts and are slower at cutting than a non kick back chain. I don't use them for that reason but they are safer for an occasional or non-professional user. Stay safe.
I'm running a Dolmar clone. 58cc, 40 and 60cm bar, both have full chisel round filed, the longer has redneck skiptooth. Every third cutter I removed with the bench grinder. I like running full chisel chain, because it cuts so fast and I really want to be done with the job. 95% of my work is bucking firewood, though.
Each tooth has to pull through the wood longer before breaking out the chip. It doesn't have the tooth behind it to take over the heavy lifting the way it did before it was turned into a skip chain.
Sorry. I wasn't very clear before. A skip change should actually be faster so you can run it with a smaller equivalent motor. But to get the best out of it run it with a powerful motor.
May 4 HP or 4kW in you movie? I have electric saw, but my neighbor set on his saw "super tooth" chain. That is why i have that question. In movie dimension of saw power nad not pointed. It's not joke. I hear "44" that may " 4 ... for saw power" ?@@JamesTheForester
Excellent tutorial. For my 6-8 cords home heating with mixed hardwoods semi chisel ( Stihl "yellow" non safety) chain in Maine U.S. does the job. Don't forget the rakers.
Thanks!
Wow - this video was just what this 'average' user needed! Thank you.
Great description and at the right level for most non-professional users. You said it was 'Boring'? Not at all.
And to think I was just about to (wrongly) buy a full chisel chain for my home/novice work.
Again, thank you for sharing your knowledge and wisdom.😃
Cheers, Bill.
Thanks for the kind words! Glad it was useful!
Great analysis, great video! I've been running chainsaws for near forty years and do a bit of logging in big hardwoods and buck up a lot of locust for stove wood. My preference is the semi chisel for the reasons you elucidate. You're right, the full chisel will cut like a bandit until it dulls even a bit and then you're out of luck... Production for me is about time and saving as much time as possible. More cutting and less sharpening with semi chisel!
Thanks 👍
This was so helpful thank you James - wish I had know before. I'm running full chisel at the moment on a 50cc but will probably switch to semi in future.
No problem 👍 thanks for the kind words 😊
Great video, mate. Very well described with the difference between the two chains. I have only ever used full chisel, but tonight I have ordered a semi chisel chain because I’m cutting some hard dirty wood.
Glad it was helpful! You should find you need to stop to sharpen a lot less. 👍
Great explanation I'm cutting some dirty firewood going to try semi chisel
Hi. Many thanks for the comment! You should find that you get more cutting time from the semi chisel before you need to sharpen. Good luck let us know how you get on!
Hi
Thank you very much for setting up decent close ups that showed aspects of full and semi chisel side by side, in focus while you moved them together - that was a neat taking advantage of video medium.
Also thanks for not bombarding me with music and audio visual gimmicks to artificially grab attention.
I've only used semi chisel and am happy with it but I might try one loop of full chisel perhaps in a full skip as am only running a 55cc chainsaw.
Thanks again
Sincerely
d
Hi David. Many thanks for that fantastic feedback it is much appreciated. A 55cc saw is quite powerful. I think you should be able to pull a full chisel no problems as long as it is kept Sharp.
hi @@JamesTheForester
In time might try a loop or 2. Perhaps a full skip and a full comp just to see how they go for me.
I Use a Stihl FGuide #2, After trying the factory grind I will probably set up for a 30 deg top plate but with 10 deg compound for slightly stronger point. This will also change the 30 top plate to about 27.5 and give just a tiny bit more strength to the point.
Thank you very much for your content. I will watch some more in the future.
Cheers
d
Best coverage on the subject I have seen yet.
Thanks!
DOUGout
Thanks! You're welcome. Glad it was useful.
A very clear explanation and an accurate one (accuracy is not always guaranteed when people discuss the mythology of chains 😂). 👍🏻👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻
Thanks for the comment 👍 glad to help!
Sounds like solid advice. Many thanks.
You're welcome!
Awesome info, thank you !
Glad it was helpful 😌
Best explenation ive heard
Hi. Thanks for the kind comment!
I run a 55cc Redmax GZ550 "professionally". But still learning the basics. I'm very confident bucking up logs and limbing and even cutting down most trees up to aproximatly 18" in diameter. This video was super helpful. I'm searching for a new 20" bar and chain and wasnt' sure what I would need for chisel. I'm leaning towards both. I really like your system for using full chisel when dropping and cutting a tree to length. then switching to a semi chisel when you know it's dirty. I will most likely use a semi chisel since I do brush clearing and I'm always in the dirt.
Agreed. If there's any chance of hitting the ground semi chisel is the way to go. Best of luck with your new venture. 👍
@@JamesTheForester thanks. Im trying to upgrade to a 20” bar over 18”. I have to figure out what pitch chain. I think .325 and how many teeth my new bar would need ie. 72-78. I know it will be .050 gauge.
I tend to buy the saw based on power and max bar length then see what chain options are available for it. You can use multiple chain/bar/sprocket combos but the powerhead is king. Buy big and reliable and the best quality you can afford.
NOT boring at all, I have finally understood the difference between full/semi chisel chains, thank you that was really useful. Could you find a moment at some point to talk about 'skip' chains? What is being 'skipped'? Why would you use one of those? Are they full or semi chisel? Thanks again ...
Thank you! A skip chain misses out a few teeth. It allows each cutting tooth to take out a much greater amount of wood. But it needs a powerful motor to pull it. 90cc or above?
Chisel chain works better in the soft wood like the Fir, Spruce, Cedar, and Pine like is found on the West Coast of the United States. Semi-Chisel chain works better in hardwood like Oaks, Hickory, Maple, Ashe, Poplar, Walnut, etc.
Thanks so much for this! So helpful.
Homeowner here fun fact, for milling a semi produces a much cleaner cut than a full chisel (both sharpend at 0 degrees). Only really run full on my 660 clone.
Great explanation of the differences 👍🏼
Glad it was helpful!
Very well done. Thanks for sharing
Thank you! Cheers!
Use semi chisel most of the time for hardwoods but was cutting Scots Pine down for a few days before xmas & hardly having to sharpen at all. If I was felling softwoods a lot I would maybe go back to full chisel.
Yes. Softwood places the least Demand on the chain so that would be the way to go. Hardwood works the chain hard so Semi chisel will last longer.
Excellent, comprehensive and informative video. Thanks.
You're welcome!
Thank you
This video was very informative for me.
You're welcome 😊
Interesting, well reasoned, I’m scrounging firewood off the ground so I’ll go with semi next time. Sometimes I have to take 1/6th of the tooth off to bring it back but I’m rubbish at keeping the bar off the ground 😂
Agreed. Soils and chainsaws don't mix! Thanks for the comment.
Thanks for the advice!
You're welcome 😊
Great video. Dry informative!!!
Very informative
James, If you are cutting a) clean GREEN hardwood logs..or...b) clean SEASONED hardwood logs which of the two chains would you prefer? Hardwood here is mainly ash and beech in 10 foot lengths.
Similarly, would you change chains from full chisel to semi chisel for seasoned softwood, mainly larch and spruce? There is very little on CZcams or the internet forums on this subject, most mainly deal with the topic of cutting dirty wood/fencerows-versus-green wood, and avoid the hardwood/softwood or green/seasoned wood comparison. Would be glad to hear your view on it. Thanks
Seasoned wood is very hard, and is very tough on chains - which are really designed for dealing with fresh wood. So I use a semi chisel as it takes more punishment, whereas full chisel would blunt more quickly. Big fresh stuff I go full chisel if it clean, small fresh wood - whatever saw comes to hand. My smaller saws tend to have more SC to hand as they get used more for dirty urban jobs. Our big forestry saws have more FC to hand.
@@JamesTheForester Many thanks for your reply, James. Lots of very helpful, practical, pragmatic advice and guidelines to put to use in the wood yard, from now on. Much appreciated!
Very good video.
Thank you very much!
I only cut firewood and get away with Full Chisel and Hexa chain but I do keep a smaller saw with Stihl RM chain for the dirty wood.
Best way.
Thanks! 😉 👍
Welcome!
I only cut green mistquite trees for bbq and fire wood, it’s hard wood type
I use full LP and it works better
Best video I've found on this subject. Will a 30cc saw handle a .050 chain? My Stihl 193t came with .043 and 14" bar. I was told the .050 performance was better. Any thoughts?
Remfmber that the pitch is the distance between two links but the cutter also tends to be bigger. If you can find a drive sprocket by the same manufacturer of the saw it's worth a try. But a small engine might struggle.
@@JamesTheForesterI did a lot of digging and it seems many have upgraded their 193t to .050 with good results. Thanks for your reply
Brilliant. If it works for others then that is the best evidence you have. Keep that chain sharp though!
Home owner needs LP kickback type chain, safety first no matter what 😊😊😊😊
OK great video that's all I need to know no sense in watching 500 videos on this,,,,,LOL
Brilliant! Glad it saved you some time!
what power you recommended for semi-chisel? 44 іt may guide bar length or may I do not understood set dimension for minimal saw power? Sorry for many questions for this.
Thanks for the comment! Semi chisel can run with any low power saw - all of the smaller stihls, huskies etc run with semi chisel chains.
Hello James I will have to buy a 28inches/71cm bar(3/8, .050)and a chain to go with it on a 92 cc chainsaw, for medium to big tree for firewood I always worked with semi chisel and I’m not to crazy about having a full chisel as recommended by the dealer, what is your view on this (I don’t do it professionally)
Hi - thanks for the comment! You do need a powerful saw to run a full chisel chain to its full potential, but a semi chisel will also work fine on the same saw - just a little slower in the cut and more forgiving when blunt 🙂
Thanks for the video. Can you clarify for me, do semi chisel and low kickback mean the same thing, or do low kickback chains include other safety features beyond being semi chisel?
Hi. Thanks for the comment. The low kickback is a different design of chain link. It is not the same as semi chisel. I believe Stihl introduced them? and they have a much higher tie strap/link designed to reduce the amount of wood the cutting tooth can grab at once. As a result they are less effective at things like bore cuts and are slower at cutting than a non kick back chain. I don't use them for that reason but they are safer for an occasional or non-professional user. Stay safe.
@@JamesTheForester Thank you
No problem!
I'm running a Dolmar clone. 58cc, 40 and 60cm bar, both have full chisel round filed, the longer has redneck skiptooth. Every third cutter I removed with the bench grinder. I like running full chisel chain, because it cuts so fast and I really want to be done with the job. 95% of my work is bucking firewood, though.
Yes. On clean wood with a powerful saw that'll produce some monster chip lengths. Need a big motor to run a skip tooth!
@@JamesTheForester How come you need a more powerful motor? The depth gauges are at the same height, there's just a third fewer teeth in the cut.
Each tooth has to pull through the wood longer before breaking out the chip. It doesn't have the tooth behind it to take over the heavy lifting the way it did before it was turned into a skip chain.
@@JamesTheForester I haven't noticed a difference in the chip size or length. Skip is slower cutting, though it doesn't bog down the saw on big wood.
Sorry. I wasn't very clear before. A skip change should actually be faster so you can run it with a smaller equivalent motor. But to get the best out of it run it with a powerful motor.
which is the best blade to use with full semmi chisel?
I always buy good quality bars. Stihl or Oregon.
How do you know so certainly about chainsaw power for semi-chisel ? Is the some article about or by own practice?
Hi. Thanks for the comment. It is based on both published recommendations and personal experience of myself and the people I work with.🙂👍
May 4 HP or 4kW in you movie? I have electric saw, but my neighbor set on his saw "super tooth" chain. That is why i have that question. In movie dimension of saw power nad not pointed. It's not joke. I hear "44" that may " 4 ... for saw power" ?@@JamesTheForester
Hi. I am telling the model of the saw Stihl MS 441. 🙂👍
Thank you for your attention. I did not joked. So 4,2 kW or 5,7 hp is a minimum for full chisel chain. @@JamesTheForester
Yes. You need a powerful saw to run a full chisel chain to it's full potential.
You need a better mike