How To Fix Your Low Water Pressure Problem
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- čas přidán 31. 05. 2024
- Salamander AccuBoost Accumulator Tanks
www.salamanderpumps.co.uk/pro...
Roger takes a look at the Salamander AccuBoost range of accumulator tanks.
The AccuBoost range of accumulator tanks offer a solution to boosting mains water flow, ideal for use with combination boilers and unvented cylinders.
Choose pumped when mains water pressure is less than 2.0 bar and/or mains water flow is less than 12 l/min. Also, choose pumped if you don't know your mains water pressure and flow.
Choose unpumped when mains water pressure and/or flow are good but the demand for water is still greater than what the mains is naturally providing, this may occur during peak times when several people are in the shower at once.
Unsure which model to choose?
Site survey form: bit.ly/3OburA1
You can submit this form to the Salamander team who will help to specify the correct product.
Product selection grid: bit.ly/3n6t75F
This shows the length of time that each product will deliver certain flow rates.
CHAPTERS
00:00 Introduction
01:31 Flow & pressure test
03:38 Accuboost unpumped
07:58 Unpumped test
09:16 Accuboost pumped
14:03 Pumped test
15:02 Choosing a tank
15:42 Conclusion
======================================
#waterpressure #plumbing #salamander
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Your mentioning of the important terms (flow rate and static pressure) as well as their description is VERY MUCH APPRECIATED. You are the first plumber who shows a sound understanding of his trade (profession really) I have ever come across.
Professional plumber .? ( Busi ness man ?)Any way His idea is well come. our house pipe line must able to with Stand high pressure.
Hi Roger
Thanks for explaining how these boosters work and the pump. The way you explained in every detail in depth and not only that and you went further to explain how to install it.
This is the best of the best videos I have seen then other people's videos.
Brilliant! Thank you for sharing this video! Simple, Clear & Practical with a lot of well defined valuable experience! You sound like my late father who was a carpenter by trade with plumbing experience! I lost him a few years ago at the age of 94 years! Thank you again and greetings from Madang, Papua New Guinea!
High end new builds with multiple bath facilities will of course come with all this factored in and kitted out, but of course existing older housing stock can experience issues over time as they put in attic extensions, en suites, and additional wet rooms, so this information is great for people to know.
Hi Roger, accumulators have been in use for many years in commercial buildings - hotels, pubs, schools and so on. They are very effective. Love all your videos, and opinions!
Thanks for sharing
It’s usually good practice to take a flow rate from a non restricted tap such as an outside tap ….most kitchen taps / basin taps tend to have reduced flow rates these days! Good video roger
Hi Roger love your plumbing videos
I ran a heating contractors for 30 years in south London and always dealing with flow and pressure problems particularly in Balham and Brixton notorious for low pressures sometimes only 1 bar
These accumulators solved many problems for me. One add on tip for you, where even one of these devices would improve but not completely, solve a problem, is to fit balancing valves on the supplies to the individual outlets (just a gate valve with the handle removed)
Then similarly to balancing radiators, you can restrict restrict the greedy to favour the needy
I used to find it was always the showers, usually at the higher parts of the house, that would suffer to some extent sometimes even after a booster. The combination of booster and balancing was needed on some of the toughest nuts I had to crack with very demanding clients in these expensive areas…..
Thanks Mark that is a good tip
Really informative for me thanks!
I moved into a house and have what I think is a similar unpumped device in my loft. It only supplies 2 showers and the hot water.
Great information - Thankyou! Also reminds me of my disappointment when replacing our bathroom. Knowing we had crap water pressure, I very carefully replaced the hot piping to the bath in 22mm all the way - even using formed bends to reduce resistance - then unpacked the new tap to find the risers had pathetic 8mm bores!!
You did not waste your time with the 22mm because the resistance is end to end over the entire route and is still lessened by the mainly larger pipe
Thank you for a grand explanation , just a mere sparks .
Great video, been considering an accumulator after changing pumps on a tank system (original pump 20 years ago is spec'd less than current pump and the new one can't keep up with 90% of the house now and water blaster sure when under pressure)
Technology gets better but not always production.
No issues with water flow and static pressure here, static pressure is between 8,5 and 9,5 bar which is quite high.
A pressure regulator is needed to bring it down to 4 bar in the house.
For the garden I do have a 22mm pipe run of before the pressure regulator, the tap on that pipe fills a bucket in 10 seconds, so about 50l / min.
But there is another advantage to the accumulator, that's if the water main supply fails. There is enough water in the accumulator to get taps and toilets going for quite a time.
Top marks - brilliant explanation throughout
Nice video as always Roger.
Amazing, sounds like it would fix our flow issues. Wish I knew about these years ago.
Hi, you can browse our full accumulator range at www.salamanderpumps.co.uk/range/accuboost/28
Very informative. My old Central heating system needs a refresh and the flow is lowish. Great to know about these and I will get the flow and pressure tested to help decide on the best solution for this house. Remove the tanks and Combi seems like a good option now. Cheers Roger
Good luck!
That 450 litre tank will weigh nearly half a tonne when full so take care where it's sited - a wooden floor may not like the extra load !
Hi Roger. Thanks for your comment. The AccuBoost 450L will weigh 281kg when filled. Depending where the unit is stored, some reinforcement work may need to be done.
Turns out that there 450L does not relate to water stored rather vessel/cylinder size.
As half the volume is taken up with the bladder.
Its not 450litre water stored just volume.
@@jgregory935 The vessel size refers to the total volume e.g. 450L, but this is split almost 50:50 air to water. The air is needed to hold the water under pressure. Thanks
@@SalamanderPumps shrinkflasion at its best.
Hi just a quick comment, being a building service engineer, I noticed you incoming mains at the start of the video,that your strainer should be positioned on the horizontal, with the filter facing downwards, or on the vertical with the flow going downwards, but never facing upwards as its installed - Im sure manufacturer installation guidance will verify this -see Hattersley valves as a guide. Apart from that, excellent videos and tips. You certainly have trade experience and it shows in your excellent videos and trademanship.
Hi Graham. I think you are right but I just followed the arrows, I hope. I will check it and get back to you.
Good spot Graham, was just thinking the same myself.
Strainer won’t catch much facing that way!
Thanks for the great info. I think I may have a solution to our problem with our water flow. Personally, I think these should be installed in all homes during the build process. Thanks, Guv'
It solved my problem, 6 bathrooms and over 3 floors. Thank goodness the problem solved otherwise my head will explode
Well done Roger as you explained very well which it was helpful and useful knowledge!!!!!
I had the same issue - a 15mm main but just over 3 bar pressure. Swapped the cold tank in the loft for 2 x 250L Stuart Turner horizontal vessels. It made a huge difference. Two points to note though:
1. you need to check the pressure at the tank and adjust the air pressure in the bladder accordingly (from memory i think it was about one bar lower than the water pressure.
2. The stored water warms up over time so drinking water isn't as cold. I would recommend fitting a supply to a tap with a non return valve before the accumulators if possible, assuming you've got the pressure and reasonable flow for it.
Hi. Thanks for your comment. You only need to adjust the pressure on unpumped models, but the amount you need to set it by varies depending on the manufacturer so always check the literature. Thanks
Watching from Louisiana. Amazing work!
Thank you very much!, good to hear from viewers in the USA.
Fantastic idea. Wellcome. Thank u. from INDIA . TN.
Excellent video and explanation. I couldn't help notice that the kitchen faucet handle is dripping...
Yes it was dripping but not any longer
I fitted one of these at our old house and it worked perfectly. :)
For how long?
Excellent video with great explanation
Thank you!
Thanks for your comment!
well done roger
Excellent vid, thanks for sharing!
Thanks for your comment!
Fitted a few of these and they are a good idea. Biggest issue with this install is that he has fitted after the pressure reducer, if fitted before then you put more water in the vessel under a higher pressure making it last longer. Also with a accumulator when it is depleted you go back to mains, with a break tank you loose water untill refilled These use to be TWS before Stuart turner bought them out.
Hi Jamie, Thanks for your comment.
The AccuBoost accumulator needs to be installed after the PRV to protect the vessel from fluctuations in mains pressure which could damage the bladder.
Only unpumped accumulators would revert to the mains once depleted. When a pumped unit is depleted, the pump will continue to run to deliver a minimum of 12L/min.
@@SalamanderPumps good clarification. My fitter got hung up on achieving 3 bar on the prv until I pointed out it was there to protect the pump and vessel and we want it relatively low.
A side problem you can create with a pumped unit is drawing down “mains” causing other users of “main” to completey lose pressure. Check with water system operator befor installing.
That is why the pump is limited to 12 ltrs per minute
@@paul_my_plumbs_uk nice....{not}
Water regulations state that only 12ltrs per min can be drawn out of the mains, and this is what the manufacturers work with.
The get around is that if you “Store” the water with a accumulator, break tanks, cold water storage tank. You can boost it to what ever you want
@@jamiefirbank5747 Nowt wrong with that... unless everyone does it at the same time lol... unlikely but hey ho. 😏
Most homes have trunk and branch plumbing systems with undersized pipework, manifold plumbing is the way to go.
Thank you for you video's' my question is, can I have a unvented cylinder connected directly to my combi boiler to give me constant hot water just by opening the taps, without using a switch to wait for the cylinder to heat the water. If yes does it use a lot of electricity to work.
Thank you
The issue (as stated) is that the water main connection was not replaced properly. We upgraded from 1/2” lead to 25mm MDPE and went from about 15l/m to over 50 L/m on our 3.5bar supply (identical pressure before and after as expected). I could run a shower at 15, a garden hose at over 20 with the kitchen tap also running more than a 20l weir cup could handle). Something is definitely wrong that they need additional kit in this house.
I would also love to know what the flow rate is straight out of their MDPE main before the restrictive stop cock, NRV, filter and PRV. I’d be willing to bet it was a lot higher than after.
Can you use this if you got a drilled well with a submersible pump?
If got a tank wet similar to this but much smaller
Really useful video - thanks
Glad you liked it
Very interesting info Rodger abs well explained 🙂👍
Thanks 👍
I have a new problem after fitting a new kitchen sink mixer tap. The hot flow is extremely slow. I followed the fitting instructions to the T & the exchange was successful with the addition of a couple of stop taps & filters positioned correctly but as for the hot flow, well its just shocking. In fact when both hot & cold are on together its probably worse. Like Roger said in the video, is it just how new mixer taps are?
Interesting concept & a good idea, but after having a burst pipe last year, large Water tanks & flexible pipes would make me anxious every time I went out.
Brilliant !
Great video.
Here’s a useful tip: Rotate the stopcock on and off twice a year to keep it free. So many are boxed in and totally inaccessible which is why they seize up.
Don't open the stopcock and leave it at the end of the thread, back off a half turn.
How do your easily measure pressure if you don't have an outside tap that readily fits the gauge? I would imagine it's difficult.
any tips for someone having just 750ml per minute from the mains in another country? how does once increase the flow, what is the best pump? Thanks
great! just sent the apprentice a few screen shots!
Thanks for your comment!
I have sufficient flow and pressure in the house, but since refitting the kitchen and installing a SureStop to make turning the mains off (we had a burst and my wife couldn't turn the stop tap off) the drop in flow is noticeable when 2 or more taps are turned on. This doesn't cause a problem even with the showers so it's not worth changing anything at the moment. What is interesting is that despite the SureStop being 22mm fitting the bore inside is the same as the 15mm version. Would you consider making a video on the pros and cons of these devices? There is no doubt they are useful in an emergency and where the stop tap is difficult to reach (aren't they all) but given that any restriction on the size of the bore will affect flow rate I think SureStop need to change their product.
I also have a SureStop and have had some flow issues - would too like to see a video on this
Replace the word Surestop with Nightmare! Get rid of it ASAP. I remove them every day of the week. Not only can they reduce your pressure, they are a major source of leaks themselves as they are water pressure operated as you know. As well as that , it will probably not work at all after a few years so don't rely on it. Tip, you may need to turn 2 taps on to get it to kick in. Sorry for the bad news but make sure you have an alternative way to turn water off . 👍
@@kevinmullin4504 Thanks Kevin. I am just a home owner and so obviously only see one rather than many. I have only had it for just over a year and I do test it every now and then. I did fit a new stop cock with the SureStop to make sure that I had a more permanent way of isolating the water supply because I read that they should not be relied upon for extended periods.
Interestingly I have spoken to a couple of plumbers (mainly on the heating side) who they they have never been asked to fit one
Great piece of kit. What do you think the life if the bladder will be, given the short life issues with the bladders in expansion vessels of unvented cylinders?
I am ot sure but the water is cold so maybe better than a central heating epdm membrane. Having said that, failure of the expansions vessel is often assumed and not confirmed, I have found many so called faulty ones perfectly ok. Sometimes it is just the schraer valve.
@@SkillBuilder I had one of these at my home in the US. We were on a well and had one of these systems to maintain pressure... The one I had was still running perfectly 10 years after installation.
Thank you for your comment. The AccuBoost accumulator has a “water on bag” type bladder so there is minimal stress applied to the bladder which means it should last a long time. In the unlikely event that there is a problem with the bladder, it is possible to replace the bladder.
@@SkillBuilder Hi, when you say the water is cold - how do you get hot water to the shower? Sorry if a stupid question.
Just had a new main moled in for £1100, 3 small holes dug wouldnt even know it's been done. "pressure" issues sorted (well, no change in pressure but flow rate vastly improved). Permanent no maintenance solution worth looking in to.
My house water pressure is low as when using same time bathroom and kitchen sink . Please advise how to fix them problems.
Presumably, if you size the tank correctly so water isn't sitting for days, microbial growth isn't an issue, right?
where do you buy that. product to measure the flow?
Hey roger! Love your videos ! Just wondering what you would recommend for a house that has a decent flow rate and decent presssure…. But with a Harvey arc water softener which seems to completely sap all water pressure and flow rate. ( I had a big unvented cylinder and system boiler installed to avoid the rubbish shower when someone runs the kitchen tap like on our old combi system) and the water softener seems to have negated all my benefits !
My water softener did the same. It basically ran through washing machine valves and 15mm pipe work, with something like 8mm internal diamer washing machine hoses which saped the flow rate. I upgraded my 15mm to 22mm pipe work, full bore iso valves (instead of washing machine valves)and the largest diameter flexi hoses (tap tails) I could (22mm to 3/4 bsp, with something like 13mm diameter). Minimised 90 degree turns also. Now, no issues at all.
I think this is great, especially if rural. However maybe add some videos with innovation re gray water recovery, rain water capture, and anything that gives a shower user how much water they have used.
.A new faucet (a dual spray switch tap that allows to switch between a strong shower setting, and normal stream setting) is installed downstairs. Whenever the downstair neighbor switches to strong flow setting I hear a high pitched water stream noise in my kitchen. The below neighbor uses the high flow setting quite often in the day, and it affects my ears as I have an ear condition called tinnitus. But it's loud enough that even someone without tinnitus would find it annoying (the nails against chalkboard type of sound)..why the noise is coming,
Really appreciate any help, thank you!
Interesting info thanks for sharing.
Thanks for watching!
Thanks for your comment!
👍good deal 👌 thanks
Is that the consumer unit behind your head?
Always a pleasure to watch you work!
Thanks Hugh
Maybe you have an answer to the problem in my house in Thailand. 1. It takes almost a week to fill my 50m3 swimming pool. 2. I live on an estate with an undersized main and most houses have a pump and tank, so at peak times we have almost no water. Certainly the shower won't work and we only have a bungalow. 3. We don't have these products here and I found a Mitsubishi WP105 that may solve my problem. 4. If I use a tank that won't solve the filling my pool problem as when the tank is empty I am back to mains flow. 5. Due to the weather, the pool needs filling every four-six months so a week to do it is a pain. Any pointers would be helpful as no one in Thailand can.
Bro how about hot water faucet become cold after few minutes?it's called mixing issue? How can solved this issue? Can you help me? Appreciate it thank you
Hi there. I live in Los Angeles California. Can you recommend a plumber in my area who can install that unit for me. Currently I have Groundfos EZ boost in my house for very long time and that model was discontinued and I can’t find anyone to service the unit. I will love to replace the unit before it stops working completely. Thank you !
I heard salamander pumps are not reliable. Stuart Turner pumps are the rolls royce of pumps there not cheap but built to last.
Hi Roger, thanks for all your videos. Why don’t you do any videos with Robin Clevett anymore ?
Robin left to start his own channel, based on him, which we helped him set up. He is doing O.K so there is no compelling reason for him to dilute that by doing stuff with us.
Could you use a flexi hose on a b radiator
I assume the tank is installed prior to the boiler?
gREAT vIDEO, THANKS FOR THAT INFO sKILL bUILDER, I like someone who knows what theyr'e talking about!...
Hi how do you get rid of air pressure in yr water line
very interesting, informative and to the point........great job.
Thanks for a great video. I have this exact problem (good pressure but dramatic drop off in flow when more than 1 tap turned on).
After doing some research I do wonder whether part of my problem is my pressure reduction valve. I have an outhouse tap that is not limited by the PRV and it’s pressure and flow is amazing! It seems PRVs are quite a varied beast, and different PRVs are required to achieve different flow rates at certain pressures
I guess you also need to think about devices that my limit flow - like an undersized condensing boiler.
I also wonder whether my DHW should have its own dedicated water supply from the incoming main taken off immediately after the PRV.
Hi Simon, you're absolutely right about outlets restricting the flow! As seen in the video the tap in the kitchen was limited to 22L/min, but when two taps were opened the combined water flow exceeded this giving a total of 30L/min.
Our technical team would be happy to discuss the options available to you, just send us an email at tech@salamanderpumps.co.uk - thanks!
You may not need the pump if you have good static pressure just an accumulator tank.
It’s what I have 3 bar static but poor mains flow.
I tried to fix this problem a while back. Had the utilities company round several times, replaced the small bore pipework from the street stop cock to my house etc. The guy from the utilities (after I said I was going to have to fit a pump) said "shouldn't have to fit a pump, it's regulated up the street as the flow and pressure are too high" the never adjusted it for me but its just annoying that the are throttling in for a reason I haven't figured out yet. I still havent installed a pump and just struggled on...
Hi Nathan, the utility provider are required to provide you with around 9l/min to the boundary, however depending on the length of pipe run and the size of the property a pump could be the solution to poor flow you are experiencing. To find out which pump would best suit your system, please take a look at our product selector. www.salamanderpumps.co.uk/product-selector
Get a powertank!!!
Hi - sorry but I can’t see how 4 bar pressure delivers only 10l per minute, unless the pipework is partially blocked. Has a flow test at the property meter been done? I get 15l per min with just 1.8 bar.
static pressure means nothing. You can get 8 bar on a 6mm pipe but it won't give you a decent flow rate. The taps are often restricted to something like that.
That unpumped unit bladder will lose pressure over time. Does the unit have a Schrader valve and can it be repressured with a compressor and what is the pressure. Thanks Roger, I might pursue this.
Yes there is a schraeder valve on top and you can pump it up with a car footpump.
I like how he speaks
Is there more information on how these fit onto a combo boiler system? I’m a bricklayer not a plumber so might be a stupid question.
Hi Elliott, there's definitely an application for using the AccuBoost to supply a combi boiler or an unvented system. Please take some time to look at page 4 of our installation information on the following link. www.salamanderpumps.co.uk/uploads/AccuBoost%20Installation%20Guide%20(Jul%2022).pdf
Get a Powertank!!!
I accidentally bumped into your video and saw that your kitchen design is like mine.
Very good 👍
Thanks for you comment!
Bought this house a decade ago. Plumbed by a plumber with no common sense. Good street mains pressure on a 3/4 inch supply. Most houses here reduce the 3/4 to a 1/2 for interior supply by putting in a 3/4 x 1/2 x1/2 tee at the entrance, to feed an outside hose bib at what is also a convenient location. That allows garden watering without reducing inside pressure, because the 3/4 carries about twice volume as a 1/2. This guy reduced to 1/2 at entrance, then ran about 20 ft of 1/2 to a 1/2 tee to feed an outside bib in a very inconvenient location. Also reduces inside flow when watering! Used much more pipe than needed just to make things worse. 50 year old job, so the plumber is too old to ask "what were you thinking?"
Just wondering if you could help , our down stairs bathroom toilet has water to the sinks but the toilet has no water it just stopped, I’ve checked the on/off valve and there’s no water pressure there, this pipe goes in the floor, and after that I’ve no idea please if you could help it would be greatly appreciated
How have you tested the on/off valve? It is unlikely that the pipe has suddenly blocked. Often we find a bit of debris has washed into the filter, some need cleaning out twice a year, especially if there are old iron pipes in the mix.
Being an Electrician, the analogy between Flow rate and Pressure is just like Current & voltage...funny that lol...
The mains and the stopcock are under my kitchen sink. Could I run the mains pipe up into my attic (from ground floor, 1st floor to loft) and still benefit from the bladder version or even the pumped ? I will check out their site. What a great solution. I love the bladder cylinder, GENIUS !
Yes it doesn't matter where you put it on the system but you lose a little head pressure if it is high up. You can put them in a shed outside if you have room.
@@SkillBuilder Thank you. Outside is doable. I'd rather not take up space in the loft I have plans for a Man Cave !
Hi Lee, pumped models should ideally be connected directly after the stop cock. Unpumped models can be located anywhere in the property however if in a shed make sure its protected from frost etc.
Should of bought a powertank
Can you add a boost tank after the water softener of a well pump? In otherwords, store clean water not directly from the well, did the pressure of the well tank affect it? My problem is when there is a power outage I loose power to the well pump and no water at the house. Do you recommend adding a check valve where the boost tank is connected?
There is a check valve required on the incoming main from the well. A large Boost tank will give you approxiamately half its capacity in water. I drain my Boost by turning off the incoming main and letting the tank deplete under its own compression power. Half the tank is water the other half is air and the air will push all the water out of the tank as it is used.
What is the best book to get a city and guilds in the trade
Is weight an issue due to the floor failing? I could see a 120 liter unit weighing at 250 kilos 300 lb, might even be considered a live load as it fills and empties over and over. Is that the 450 liter?
Morning. Thanks for your comment. The AccuBoost 450L will weigh 281kg when filled, and the 120L weighs 132kg when filled. Depending where the unit is stored, some reinforcement work may need to be done.
How would you improve pressure in a 4th floor one bed flat, electric shower won't run hot before 6.30am, then after 6.30 it kicks in, driving me mad any suggestions?? Thanks 👍
Hi Phillip, if it is only the one electric shower that requires boosting, you could look into one of our single outlet TapBoost pump.
Thank you for your video.
Please tell me how much it cost me to fixed it.
Recently plumber charged me £80 just to change two washer.
Did i paid him too much?
Fixing water pressure how much do i have to pay an arms and the legs?
The plumber charged you for travelling to and from your home and having the van, tools and knowledge to do the job.
🎉🎉🎉❤❤❤ Uncle You’re so amazing skill level 🎉🎉🎉❤❤❤ 😊😊😊 very nice 😊to sharing your experience to the kids on these days on earth 🎉🎉🎉🎉🎉🎉🎉❤❤❤❤❤❤❤
Hi Roger, we live in a bungalow. Would we dispose of the tank in the loft if we fitted this system ?
yes but you will need an unvented cylinder unless you have a combination boiler. If your mains pressure is good you might not even need the Acuboost.
Do these units charge as they go? So I’ve seen on the 450l you get around 40ish minutes of pressurised water and they take 40 mins to recharge. If I’m thinking about showers, will it recharge as you go along assuming you only have a say 10 minute shower? If that makes sense?!
They do not fully deplete so you need to factor that in.
Good video. We have 2.5 bar coming into the house but only about 12 l/min of flow. I understand that 2.5 bar drops 0.5 bar when you go up a floor to the shower and another 0.5 bar if we add a water softener. So think an accumulator is a decent option to go in the loft. Is it likely to need a pump? Are the pumps noisy and how often do they kick in?
The one we tried was quite noisy and they kick in every time you turn on the tap.
@@SkillBuilder I saw another video where they had a pump that essentially "charged" the accumulator but didn't kick in every time an outlet was opened. Have you seen this?
1 bar is 10 meters' height of water
Will the bolt adjuster in a pressure regulator valve come out if you turn it too many times to reduce water pressure?
I need to turn my pressure down but I am not sure if the old regulator is working or just has been turned up too high previously.
It shoudn't come out.
@@SkillBuilder Thank you. Counter Clock Wise is correct for lowering the water pressure correct?
Your a jack of all trades Roger. Lol. So how long where you a plasterer musnt been long if your forty years a plumber. Love your videos great help.
When did I say I was a plasterer? I have been plumbing for 40 years but in that time I have done a great many other things and take a few sabaticals because plumbing would drive me nuts. If I gave the impression that I have plumbed 5 days a week for 40 years I am sorry. If the sun is shining and I am in the mood I will even do a bit of exterior painting.
I have also done a good many loft conversions with my pals.
If the cylinder is not changing its water very much doesn't that constitute a dead leg? A potential legionella breeding ground if the temperature is nkt kept below 20`C.
It is a good point. I don't know the answer but I will empty it every few weeks now. You just have to turn the mains off and let it deplete.
Hi Roger, sorry for my ignorance, but can I run this system both pumped and unpumped with a combi set up to run a two bathroom home.
Thanks in advance
What size is the combi would be the first question, if it's not capable of delivering more than 12 Litre/min for hot water you would not gain anything. If you've got a second bathroom and you have a combi you'd more often be better of with an electric shower.
Yes, absolutely but the combi will still only heat water at its maximum capablitly which is dependent on the temperature of the incoming water.
@@effervescence5664 o
Hi, you can increase the storage capacity by linking Accuboosts together. If one unit is pumped the additional units should be unpumped. Thanks.
Is the stored mains water suitable for drinking?I didn't think stored water is considered potable...
No
that moment when your giant water tank turns into a little tiny one.
Will this work with well? I have to filter sediment out before it gets to that tank? I have 5-10 gpm at the garden hose. I want to pump it into my home and run my home.
Get a Powertank
What can you do with variable pressure. Sometimes its so high the next door neighbour turning on and off can rattle the pipes, other times it's much lower and full is just above a trickle...
It seems that you are on a shared main and if the neighbour is using it you don't get enough. Pressure is not the same as flow. You can increase the flow to 12 lts per minute with a pump which fits on the mains inside the house.
Measure how much you are getting at best and worst. It is also worth asking your water supplier. I have sometimes discovered a stopcock that was just about open. I love thos jobs.
@@SkillBuilder I missed a piece of specific information that invalidate this. I have the main water cut off reduced to prevent water ram in the house. I still get very high pressure, but as you say pressure and flow are different. There are obviously differences in the external feed that are translated through a partially closed valve.
I always thought either a water ram protection device or a large tank to provide controlled pressure. Both have their disadvantages.
However when you want to check the air pressure vessel you do need to empty out ,
Hi Peter, to check the pre-charged pressure in the vessel, isolate the electrics and mains supply, empty the vessel and use a pressure gauge attached to the Schrader valve on top of the vessel. To check the current PSI inside the vessel, there would be no requirement to drain it down. Thanks.
I live in florida is there any company that sell this in the united States ?
Was this taken 10 years ago? Now there is an electric pump 1/100 of that size and get a better result for only 50 gbp.
Does anyone have a good guess on how long a home water pressure regulating valve can last? Mine has been on the home since 1974. Thanks
It will work indefinetly but scale can be a problem in hard water areas.
@@SkillBuilder Thanks my friend