I must say that was a very thorough and informative video.... most people skip all of the important stuff but you covered everything from start to finish! Thank you!
TIP, I used a Torpedo heater after I removed the Oil cooler which helped make the whole process a lot easier to disassemble the cooler as when its warm everything flexs or softens making the job easier. I intend on using the torpedo heater to soften everything when I reassemble it as I dont have a floor press to push it together. I will also use a ratchet strap to draw it all together if that helps anyone. I've done a few of these oil coolers in the past but came here to share the tip om separating the darn thing. My truck is a 1993 7.3IDI which is the same Oil cooler as Wesley has here.
Yesterday the rear header on my 6.9IDI wouldn`t come off. Your hint of first twisting and then prying saved my day. It worked out perfectly. Thx a lot from Germany.
When installing the O rings on the cooler tube I taped up the lips so my O ring would slide easily over it without causing any damage to said O rings. Another thing to watch for is pitting' on the cooler caps on the inside where the O rings sits/rides when assembled. I had already rebuilt my cooler but it started leaking again a few years later and I suspect it was caused by the pitting inside the outside cap, both caps' can pit', mine turned out to the one below the power steering pump which I found on Ebay used. Not cheap even when used! Warming the cooler say with a heater or possibly a hair dryer helps everything go back together a lot easier if you do have a floor press. The heat makes everything pliable I found. Hope this helps people deal with this messy issue/fix. I thank Wesley, Wes for a nice Video as well to attach my Tips to. Good job sir.
Thank you thank you thank you. Just bought a 1985 6.9 idi Ford F250 and your video is perfect. Nothing skipped. I actually ended up doing it slightly different. I was able to disconnect the steering column at the top instead of the bottom and slide it over enough to turn the cooler in a way that the pry tab was accessible and got the top pried off from there without lifting the engine. Started cleaning and that is the end of my day one. Hopefully tomorrow I can finish up with the last half of your video!
Most informative video from beginning to end of the job. I wish I found this before I fumbled the cooler around for 2 hours before I thought to Jack the engine up lol.
Nice demonstration. I am glad I have a parts washer and soaking tank with mineral spirits at work that would make cleaning the cooler easier. I had one leak and farmed that job because my mechanic had a hoist to lift the engine. My cooler was leaking around the oil filter and nothing was working to hold the oil in and that would have been a disaster. Double thumbs up.
Not sure my oil cooler is going bad but given the age of the truck and the mileage, I’m sure it will. Decided to give the thumbs up once you mentioned Remington gun cleaning kit 🤣 Good stuff Russ! Thank you!
Great vid! My book didnt mention steering removal just motor mount bolts and lifting that side of motor. Soon to find out I guess! I watched another vid and they pulled the manifold haha
Nice upload! my 89 just clocked 75,000 miles my cooler has been leaking for about 2 years but not significantly. I been using lucus oil stop leak in it, it actually woks pretty well. I can tell cause I religiously change my oil at 5k miles this time I forgot to add a qt of that lucus fired it up and yep its leaking pretty good. I have a 1400 mile trip coming up. Unfortunately the under carriage/lower body is rusting away. im searching for a truck to swap this IDI into and when I do ill rebuild the cooler.
I'm going to do this to my truck, I bought a used replacement 7.3 idi and I figure while the motor is out and sitting on blocks in my driveway it makes sense. I have plenty of room to work with it out of the truck, a piece of cake in terms of access.
I have seen the inner o-rings torn blind assembled as listed here (crankcase fills with antifreeze), it is by far better to install both the o-rings on the cooler and press the ends on rather than give the cooler a chance to catch that inner o-ring, just my experience doing this repair. 1991 F350 4x4 engine lifted a few inches & steering shaft "column connection only" had to be removed.
Great video! I do not understand how you maneuvered that out of there without jacking up the block. This took me a few days I was already replacing tie rods, steering gear and link, master cylinder, brake booster and heater core so I added this to the list since I was going to have all of that apart - I should have like you said replaced the power steering as well but I will make a run at that when I replace all the windshield wiper fluid reservoir, battery cables, jumper cable setup and the hood light next go around.
I did jack up the engine about 3” on the drivers side (used a jack on a flat surface of the block where the transmission mates up) Some people says that they do it without jacking the engine up at all Guess it depends on the truck/situation
I have a tip. Get a sharpening stone, lube with wd40, and use the wide flat side of stone on your flat mating surfaces. Youll be amazed at how much time and effort your save scrubbing.
What happens if a oil cooler goes bad? Would you get water in oil and oil in water? If so that’s what mine is doing, I took it all apart and I don’t see any noticeable issues. 0 rings look good. I’m hoping that it is in fact just the rings. Compression is good. No water in exhaust. But oil in water and water jn oil????
As a shade tree kinda guy, this would be maybe $250-300 max for me to do this job for someone But hey if that is the going prices, maybe I need to get out of the 90’s…
But the plus is it’s simple shit. Not shit that costs $200-300 each injector, & a $700 rebuilt HPOP pump, & a bunch of little stupid prints on injectors that go bad & will cause your truck to smoke, & are a pain to fix/everything under the valve cover.
Man I so Agree I have a 96 Powerstroke as well as my beloved F250 IDI freaking sensors, drive me nuts the injectors are a pain, and uhave to buy computers software just to trouble shoot the damn thing.
I’ve done several, although it’s a bit of a booger. I don’t pull the power steering pump. I just use a long extension and a swivel socket and get those top 10mm bolts.
Awesome job, something about these IDI's makes it hard to ever get rid of them, whatever it takes to keep them going.
Not many videos out there for the idi. I appreciate your effort. Thank you.
I must say that was a very thorough and informative video.... most people skip all of the important stuff but you covered everything from start to finish! Thank you!
Thank you.
I specifically tried to break it down so anyone could follow because a LOT of the info I put in wasn't told me...
TIP, I used a Torpedo heater after I removed the Oil cooler which helped make the whole process a lot easier to disassemble the cooler as when its warm everything flexs or softens making the job easier. I intend on using the torpedo heater to soften everything when I reassemble it as I dont have a floor press to push it together. I will also use a ratchet strap to draw it all together if that helps anyone. I've done a few of these oil coolers in the past but came here to share the tip om separating the darn thing. My truck is a 1993 7.3IDI which is the same Oil cooler as Wesley has here.
Yesterday the rear header on my 6.9IDI wouldn`t come off. Your hint of first twisting and then prying saved my day. It worked out perfectly. Thx a lot from Germany.
You're welcome!
Thank you, wouldnt have known how to get it off w out you. Keepng my 1989 7.3 4x4 fove speed alive. Going to put it back together now
Doing the same thing right now on my 89 7.3 5 speed dually
When installing the O rings on the cooler tube I taped up the lips so my O ring would slide easily over it without causing any damage to said O rings. Another thing to watch for is pitting' on the cooler caps on the inside where the O rings sits/rides when assembled. I had already rebuilt my cooler but it started leaking again a few years later and I suspect it was caused by the pitting inside the outside cap, both caps' can pit', mine turned out to the one below the power steering pump which I found on Ebay used. Not cheap even when used! Warming the cooler say with a heater or possibly a hair dryer helps everything go back together a lot easier if you do have a floor press. The heat makes everything pliable I found. Hope this helps people deal with this messy issue/fix. I thank Wesley, Wes for a nice Video as well to attach my Tips to. Good job sir.
Thank you thank you thank you. Just bought a 1985 6.9 idi Ford F250 and your video is perfect. Nothing skipped. I actually ended up doing it slightly different. I was able to disconnect the steering column at the top instead of the bottom and slide it over enough to turn the cooler in a way that the pry tab was accessible and got the top pried off from there without lifting the engine. Started cleaning and that is the end of my day one. Hopefully tomorrow I can finish up with the last half of your video!
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Where did you buy the gasket and rings
Thank you for taking the time to do this. Just bought one of these and I have to replace the o-rings.
Most informative video from beginning to end of the job. I wish I found this before I fumbled the cooler around for 2 hours before I thought to Jack the engine up lol.
That gun kit idea is genius. nice work.
Nice demonstration. I am glad I have a parts washer and soaking tank with mineral spirits at work that would make cleaning the cooler easier. I had one leak and farmed that job because my mechanic had a hoist to lift the engine. My cooler was leaking around the oil filter and nothing was working to hold the oil in and that would have been a disaster. Double thumbs up.
this was a absolute awesome video for people who have never done a oil cooler.. 👌👊
It was my first one also lol
Not sure my oil cooler is going bad but given the age of the truck and the mileage, I’m sure it will. Decided to give the thumbs up once you mentioned Remington gun cleaning kit 🤣 Good stuff Russ! Thank you!
Hahaha thanks!
I'm not a mechanic by any means. I just make it work
Great vid! My book didnt mention steering removal just motor mount bolts and lifting that side of motor. Soon to find out I guess! I watched another vid and they pulled the manifold haha
Great video thanks for making it
Thank you IDI Jesus the only thing I removed was the steering with some gymnastics she came right outta there
Nice upload! my 89 just clocked 75,000 miles my cooler has been leaking for about 2 years but not significantly. I been using lucus oil stop leak in it, it actually woks pretty well. I can tell cause I religiously change my oil at 5k miles this time I forgot to add a qt of that lucus fired it up and yep its leaking pretty good. I have a 1400 mile trip coming up. Unfortunately the under carriage/lower body is rusting away. im searching for a truck to swap this IDI into and when I do ill rebuild the cooler.
You sound just like Eugene from walking dead spouting how too and facts.. Awesome.
I've gotten that so much...
Damn that's a big job
Very helpful thank you
I like that radiator
I'm going to do this to my truck, I bought a used replacement 7.3 idi and I figure while the motor is out and sitting on blocks in my driveway it makes sense. I have plenty of room to work with it out of the truck, a piece of cake in terms of access.
The book says disconnect motor mount, raise engine, install 1" wooden block.
(Obviously more if necessary for convince)
I have seen the inner o-rings torn blind assembled as listed here (crankcase fills with antifreeze), it is by far better to install both the o-rings on the cooler and press the ends on rather than give the cooler a chance to catch that inner o-ring, just my experience doing this repair. 1991 F350 4x4 engine lifted a few inches & steering shaft "column connection only" had to be removed.
Great video! I do not understand how you maneuvered that out of there without jacking up the block. This took me a few days I was already replacing tie rods, steering gear and link, master cylinder, brake booster and heater core so I added this to the list since I was going to have all of that apart - I should have like you said replaced the power steering as well but I will make a run at that when I replace all the windshield wiper fluid reservoir, battery cables, jumper cable setup and the hood light next go around.
I did jack up the engine about 3” on the drivers side (used a jack on a flat surface of the block where the transmission mates up)
Some people says that they do it without jacking the engine up at all
Guess it depends on the truck/situation
So...lube the shaft....take fingers and spread it....and push gently. Got it.
How did you get the front top bolts out
I have a tip. Get a sharpening stone, lube with wd40, and use the wide flat side of stone on your flat mating surfaces. Youll be amazed at how much time and effort your save scrubbing.
True
This was as down and dirty as it gets...Unfortunately
Is it the same for a 6.9?
What happens if a oil cooler goes bad? Would you get water in oil and oil in water? If so that’s what mine is doing, I took it all apart and I don’t see any noticeable issues. 0 rings look good. I’m hoping that it is in fact just the rings. Compression is good. No water in exhaust. But oil in water and water jn oil????
Im fixin to i stall a gear vendors unit. Was going to yank trans and do rear main seal. Do you suggest rebuilding the oil cooler while im under there?
I would if it is showing signs of leaking seals
Otherwise let sleeping dogs lie
oh, so that's why the shop wanted 1k to do this for me.
As a shade tree kinda guy, this would be maybe $250-300 max for me to do this job for someone
But hey if that is the going prices, maybe I need to get out of the 90’s…
Dont you just love working on this truck? haha it's a colossal pain in the ass, but when it runs good, its excellent
Basically
But the plus is it’s simple shit. Not shit that costs $200-300 each injector, & a $700 rebuilt HPOP pump, & a bunch of little stupid prints on injectors that go bad & will cause your truck to smoke, & are a pain to fix/everything under the valve cover.
Man I so Agree I have a 96 Powerstroke as well as my beloved F250 IDI freaking sensors, drive me nuts the injectors are a pain, and uhave to buy computers software just to trouble shoot the damn thing.
Does the red paint trim job add horse power.😏
Of course!
I’ve done several, although it’s a bit of a booger. I don’t pull the power steering pump. I just use a long extension and a swivel socket and get those top 10mm bolts.
Can you blow compressed air through the bundle?
You can, if it’s fully disassembled
My version of cleaning it with the gun cleaning kit rods worked great
Dang seeing the inside was scary
Getting mine apart is a lost cause
How come? If you can get it to slide apart 3/8” or so you should be able to spin it around and remove the endcaps that way.