pull the head off, cylinder off, replace piston, replace fluid, get out out bush! We carry lots of spares and tools and keep them close to where we sled.
An IQR mod would be the best! I am hoping to mod out my IQR this up coming summer (if the budget allows it) and it would be really helpful if I could base it off your instructions! Keep up the great videos!
Were not so lucky with snow here, I'm hoping you get out with you new sled, and make some videos for us to watch... I'm hoping, I'll have enough snow too put my own video on the tube...
i have a stock 250 elan beater, 540 monster elan, xlt mod, 700 doo mod, I also have enough to make a tundra and another elan not running. Iqr this winter probably, then mod it like mad.
looks totally different then before! keep em coming! what would you say about running 100LL (low Lead jet fuel) in my 2004 ski-doo rev 440? it has high comp heads and low comp ones are $189 a piece and race gas is $12.87 a gallon at my local dealer/race shop. jet fuel is $6.54 a gallon. what would you say?
Had one of those three prong garden tools that I bought at a thrift store then I broke off the other two prongs and bent the one hook over. Works great on springs or any where else you need to pull on a spring. I used it to pull exhaust springs on my sleds and even used it on a few springs that a "custom" tool wouldn't pull on my bosses '51 Caddy.
You can get brake pliers for cars and trucks that have a nice hook intended for removing or installing springs without having them shoot through someone's face
Well if you need to run 100LL or race gas then do it because it's cheaper, it is actually Avgas, not jet fuel, jet fuel is used in turbine or turbo prop aircraft, you probably know that. I prefer to only use high test with my builds, makes finding fuel easier - and a little cheaper. Maybe you can find used heads if you want to go cheaper?
I'm looking for advice on what year motors I can swap into my 1995 600 XCR Polaris. Such as what other years will fit. I want to stick with the 600. I've located a 2000 600 xcr. Hoping it will work. Thanks in advance.
Can a top end be done on a 2006 Rev 500 with the engine in, or does the motor need to come out? Just planning for the eventual day a rebuild is necessary. Looks like this sled had a lot of room to work.
Hey guys....I follow you on youtube and came across this video. I was searching fro info on doinga top end on a 2002 Seadoo 717cc.. You guys make it look easy. Would this be close to what you guys did here? It is a rotax and I would like to just do the top end. Not sure what I would be getting into. All other information had the engine completely removed, not sure I want to get into that. Whats do you think?
Just bought a 2002 Mountain Cat 600 efi. When I bought it it ran very well and had 125 psi both cylinders; 2900 miles. Ran it for about 5 miles at home perfectly fine then it started smoking horribly. Coolant is getting into the cylinders and leaking between crankcase and cylinder in one spot. Planning on replacing all gaskets. Funny thing is that this sled had cylinder work and brand new gaskets 200 miles ago. Any suggestions or recommendations?
In your opinion what would be better to use, SPI cast pistons or Wiseco forged. People say forged is better but theres a whole bunch of machining to be done. Cast is just throw in and go. Just wanted to know what you think.
Forged are better if youre running a turbo set up or if you're running high rpm constantly they are lighter which is better..cast are quieter and dont require pre warm up before revving up the engine..if you're building a motor to perform and beat your buddy then stick with a forged piston if the motors for a child to run around the property on go with a cast piston
Im doing this to my sled so with the caged bearings i dont need the washers that fell out? Im buying the same kit for a 600 h.o rev also do the rings need to be put on a certain way?
Yeah they have a mark for up usually a circle from a punch that side is up and then the piston will have a slot that each end of ring sits on either side or otherwise your rings wont compress
You would only hone them if the piston melted or broke and left slag or scarred up the cylinder wall his pistons were in working order when they came out no need to hone new cross tracks.
While i was helping my friend change pistons on his mxz 583 one of those retaining clips shot out and hit just beneath the rim of my glasses and man i got to tell you one thing those fuckers hurt!
Single ring pros has lowest friction design for increased power and throttle response and lowest weight Single ring cons.has shorter ervice life due to heat and dissipation and ring wear.single ring is preferred by guys who race or ride hard. Dual ring pros Improved heat transfer due to the addition of the second ring.Engine performance durability due to second rings ability to seal if first ring becomes compromised dual rings cons.increased friction and weight...single rings for racers tend to be thinner and lighter for the flutter that will occur at high rpm at tdc.
Trail riding would require less oil as theres not much reason to be running wot for any length of time...and if you are always running wot I'd say it's time to upgrade to a more powerful machine
Why would he wanna hone a perfectly fine nikasil cylinder?he didnt change pistons because they melted or broke inside the cylinder running..no need to hone here.
How do the SPI pistons you're installing hold up? I've heard 50/50 good and bad news with them. Now, you from experience I am in need of pistons. Would you recommend these as a good, cheap, lasting piston? Thanks.
I am doing a top end on a 2005 rev 600 renegade Sri ho and had to get a new cylinder for one side....I am currently putting everything back together and am bolting the head and am having issues with the bolts being to long and bottoming out on 3 holes of the new cylinder....do you think the refurbished cylinder may not have been drilled and tapped properly after reconditioned....just wondering if you have ever come across this issue?
My 1000 SDI Rotax locked-up on me last winter. Does anyone think it could only be a seized piston, or is it the nightmare scenario I'm hoping it's not, ( crankshaft bearings ) ? I'm gonna' start to dig into it in the next week or so. Any suggestions?
take the plugs out and make sure its not hydro locked. spray some penetrating oil in the cylinders if not hydolocked and let sit for a few days - then try to move the clutch back and forth by hand - if that doesnt work put a rachet on the clutch and try to turn it gently - if it wont turn youll need to tear things apart.
. i wish that i had scene this before i rebuilt mine lol I was told that there is an upside right for the ring, what is the easiest why to determined it position? At 944 you mention to line up pin /ring so that is doesn't get in the wrong spot I'm not sure what we are talking about. Witch pin are we watching for where dose the gap sit on the ring thanks lost a little bit would you mind explaining thanks. Funny part is I made the y pipe mistake and it was a night-mare.
The ring goes on the piston and turns so that each end of the ring have the pin in the center it's usually off to the side of the exhaust port or else the piston ring wont compress the end gap is the opening of the ring theres two ends you squeeze the ring onto the piston to put the cylinder on that's the ring gap but unless your running nitrous oxide dont worry about the end gap
I would not recommend 100LL with a race head. I run 100LL in my watercross mod but keep the compression ratio bellow 14:1. I beleive the race heads are 15 or 16:1, not 100% sure. That is too much for 100LL and it will detonate and eventually fail. Run c-14 or get new domes and run pump gas.
He always checks the gap unless Louis is running nitrous oxide they'll have the right amount of end gap 99.99% of the time I've never built a motor that had to have the gap filed down.
I'd just do top of I was you if you're concerned have the case opened and check the bottom out I've got sleds that made it 30 000 kms before doing the bottom end
The only reason youd rebuild on trail is if you were in a riding area that's to steep and deep to have someone pull your broke down sled to a heated garage then youd get it done with cold fingers and a few cuss words and fire it up.
Nikasil coated cylinders ya dont wanna hone unless they have piston slag melted onto them ya cant scrape off or they have a small groove then ya can lube them good while running the hone in and fixing the mess keep the hone moving and keep it lubed you'll be fine.
these are nikasil coated cylinders, very hard and durable. they can be cleaned with scotch-brite, But to hone needs to be a special diamond hone. These cylinder will far outlast cast iron. The downside is that they are a bit pricey to have recoated if they are damaged or ever wear out
@@jomishx lol any hone will do use a good cheap lube like atf or diesel have someone add lube while the hones moving ya dont wanna dry the hone out and burn through the nikasil coating.
These engines really need to be designed better, particularly the Rotax. Seriously, a rebuild required every 300 hours? Humanity as a whole is pretty sick and tired of having to rebuild engines. Somebody needs to design an engine that will run for god damn forever and never break. If it requires titanium in it to build it, use titanium. If it requires aluminum, use aluminum. If it requires vanadium steel, use effing vandium steel. Whatever engineering and metulurgy it takes to make an engine you never have to fuck with every again. You can't tell me in 500 years of designing and building engines, humanity still can't build one that is worth a fuuuckkk for reliability. I can't speak for everybody, but I don't enjoy working on engines at all. I'd rather go to the dentist to get two root canals. I do it because I have to, because of piss poor engineering. The worse thing is I am usually not the orginal person making the buying decisions on this crap, I just end up with this kind of things used and second hand. So I have no input on deciding what engineering to support with my dollars or not. You folks need to demand more from your manufactuers, and stop buying stuff that has crap under the hood.
I have a 2002 rotax 600, 13,000+ trail miles on it, completely original, and still runs like a swiss watch and still has hone marks in the cylinder walls. They don't need a rebuild every 300 hrs. Even at an average of 40MPH this sled would have 325 hours on it and is nowhere near in need of a rebuild. Trail average would be closer to 30MPH in my area, for the most part. Nothing will run forever if you're constantly beating the shit out of it and you're dreaming if that's what you expect.
-"Hey louis what you draggin behind your sled??"
- "Oh thats just my parts sled! Never know what youll need to fix!"
"If you're on the trail and need to change a piston"
That's what I was think.... Like oh yeah I'll just throw a new piston in there at the side of the trail like a belt or a plug.
Lol gotta be prepared if ya own a SkiDoo lol
@@skidooman97 more like polaris or arctic cat
@@kadenshablow4327 i like to just rebuild the top and bottom end on the side of the trail when it feels a little boggy
He said in the video that he would do it at the cabin.
Thanks I appreciate that.
If you don't have assembly lube, just as easy to use 2 stroke oil.
I have used a shop vac in the past to suck out the coolant, it helps in reducing the amount that drops in.
Good job!
I swapped my pistons on a triple this summer and I wish I would have thought to use a pen to get those clips in.. what a pain in the thumb!
yup - should be fun! just deciding on a motor.
thanks!
Thanks! Probably an IQR, starting to gather parts later this winter - for a summer build.
pull the head off, cylinder off, replace piston, replace fluid, get out out bush! We carry lots of spares and tools and keep them close to where we sled.
Yes.
good video for someone like me trying to learn....Thanks!
Right on - well staty tuned - but I won't start till the summer!
Love you channel! Wish it was snowing already lol. Just got a mxz and dieing to ride. Cheers and c u on the trails 😊
Right on - lets see that elan!
This sled is similar to mine and you make it look easy. I know I'm going to change this on mine.
Good idea!
Thanks for the video. Some nice tips there. Need to do one on my '93 Phazer.
An IQR mod would be the best! I am hoping to mod out my IQR this up coming summer (if the budget allows it) and it would be really helpful if I could base it off your instructions! Keep up the great videos!
Missed the ring gap 😳
Learned a lot thanks
gobs of power and long track, either 800xcr motor, thundercat 1000 motor, maybe a watercraft motor, or 800 top end, havent decided.
i wanna say all 700 and 800's have the non caged bearings. its a pita to put those back in. atleast you got the caged bearing for your doo!
Were not so lucky with snow here, I'm hoping you get out with you new
sled, and make some videos for us to watch...
I'm hoping, I'll have enough snow too put my own video on the tube...
A video on syncing carbs would be great!! Thanks
Not this time around - this summer I'l do a bunch of work to it.
i have a stock 250 elan beater, 540 monster elan, xlt mod, 700 doo mod, I also have enough to make a tundra and another elan not running. Iqr this winter probably, then mod it like mad.
Nice video, the cyl bolts need to be tighten to 31 ft/lbs if they are the 10mm bolts.
great video I ran out of Characters thats the first
No start up man I was anticipating
Yes, also check the ring gap and always use new gaskets.
I've never had to file down a ring for more end gap unless running nitrous oxide
Just like rebuilding a 2 stroke dirt bike(:
lets ride that's all that matters.
i just helped my dad rebuild his 380 ski doo new pistons
The singles can go forever, maybe next time I'll put duals in it, we'll see. Thanks for watching!
Just noticed the Ottawa logo on the magnet,I'm from South Ottawa.
The bearings in the older 700's weren't caged, the replacements are caged.
it's an uncaged bearing, there wasnt anything wrong with it - just not caged.
Nice ring gap!
wonder if it made the winter rofl
looks totally different then before! keep em coming! what would you say about running 100LL (low Lead jet fuel) in my 2004 ski-doo rev 440? it has high comp heads and low comp ones are $189 a piece and race gas is $12.87 a gallon at my local dealer/race shop. jet fuel is $6.54 a gallon. what would you say?
a looped over zip tie also works well for removing springs, you can do it with one finger
yup and a show lace, piece of wire, i use just about anything i have handy - because I always lose that spring tool.
PowerModz
I've always just used needle-nose locking pliers :)
Had one of those three prong garden tools that I bought at a thrift store then I broke off the other two prongs and bent the one hook over. Works great on springs or any where else you need to pull on a spring. I used it to pull exhaust springs on my sleds and even used it on a few springs that a "custom" tool wouldn't pull on my bosses '51 Caddy.
You can get brake pliers for cars and trucks that have a nice hook intended for removing or installing springs without having them shoot through someone's face
Well if you need to run 100LL or race gas then do it because it's cheaper, it is actually Avgas, not jet fuel, jet fuel is used in turbine or turbo prop aircraft, you probably know that. I prefer to only use high test with my builds, makes finding fuel easier - and a little cheaper. Maybe you can find used heads if you want to go cheaper?
IQRs R BEAST!!!!!!!!
Were the rings clearanced properly before installation? It wasn't shown in the vid...Thats why I ask.
Can you put isoflex on the crank bearings while you do this?
Nice work!and the next project is? :)
Oh dear! then I really have something to se! :D
I'm looking for advice on what year motors I can swap into my 1995 600 XCR Polaris. Such as what other years will fit. I want to stick with the 600. I've located a 2000 600 xcr. Hoping it will work. Thanks in advance.
Can a top end be done on a 2006 Rev 500 with the engine in, or does the motor need to come out? Just planning for the eventual day a rebuild is necessary. Looks like this sled had a lot of room to work.
Should be able to do it in the sled
I lost my pisten on clutch side the 2 pistens are good bud the left one on clutch is done
let me know if you need parts we can get them for ya!
use oem if you can - and can afford them.
Why did the pins in the wrist pin bearings fall out? I dont get it.
all doos have the non caged bearings.
IQR mod sled.
I have a 2002 MXZ 700 Sport with RER. It had low compression so I rebuilt the top end. Now it won’t start. Any suggestions?
what are you going to do with the iQ long rack it and such or are you going to male gobs of power/
where did you get that hood?! thats sweet
what kind of lube are you using?
Hey guys....I follow you on youtube and came across this video. I was searching fro info on doinga top end on a 2002 Seadoo 717cc.. You guys make it look easy. Would this be close to what you guys did here? It is a rotax and I would like to just do the top end. Not sure what I would be getting into. All other information had the engine completely removed, not sure I want to get into that. Whats do you think?
nope, swapped em in and that's it, 130psi compression before breaking them in.
Just bought a 2002 Mountain Cat 600 efi. When I bought it it ran very well and had 125 psi both cylinders; 2900 miles. Ran it for about 5 miles at home perfectly fine then it started smoking horribly. Coolant is getting into the cylinders and leaking between crankcase and cylinder in one spot. Planning on replacing all gaskets. Funny thing is that this sled had cylinder work and brand new gaskets 200 miles ago. Any suggestions or recommendations?
Head gaskets fudged
your rebuilding a 2001 formula 700 right
In your opinion what would be better to use, SPI cast pistons or Wiseco forged. People say forged is better but theres a whole bunch of machining to be done. Cast is just throw in and go. Just wanted to know what you think.
Id use both, I'm not picky, just let the forged one warm up properly and make sure the tolerances are good.
Forged are better if youre running a turbo set up or if you're running high rpm constantly they are lighter which is better..cast are quieter and dont require pre warm up before revving up the engine..if you're building a motor to perform and beat your buddy then stick with a forged piston if the motors for a child to run around the property on go with a cast piston
Im doing this to my sled so with the caged bearings i dont need the washers that fell out? Im buying the same kit for a 600 h.o rev also do the rings need to be put on a certain way?
Yeah they have a mark for up usually a circle from a punch that side is up and then the piston will have a slot that each end of ring sits on either side or otherwise your rings wont compress
Did you have to hone the cylinders before putting in the new pistons?
You would only hone them if the piston melted or broke and left slag or scarred up the cylinder wall his pistons were in working order when they came out no need to hone new cross tracks.
While i was helping my friend change pistons on his mxz 583 one of those retaining clips shot out and hit just beneath the rim of my glasses and man i got to tell you one thing those fuckers hurt!
Where do you get that royal purple assembly lube from there powermodz??
Any oil will do, I use 2 stroke now
Question, Why did't you go with MCB Dual Ring Pistons With Moly Rings?
Single ring pros has lowest friction design for increased power and throttle response and lowest weight
Single ring cons.has shorter ervice life due to heat and dissipation and ring wear.single ring is preferred by guys who race or ride hard.
Dual ring pros
Improved heat transfer due to the addition of the second ring.Engine performance durability due to second rings ability to seal if first ring becomes compromised dual rings cons.increased friction and weight...single rings for racers tend to be thinner and lighter for the flutter that will occur at high rpm at tdc.
Do you really pre-mix your fuel to trail ride? I guess you trail ride differently up there than i do at home. That sounds like a huge PITA for me.
Trail riding would require less oil as theres not much reason to be running wot for any length of time...and if you are always running wot I'd say it's time to upgrade to a more powerful machine
What was the compression after the rebuild? What should it be on a 2002 700? Mine is around 125 on each side
110-140 👍
Change a piston on the trail 🤔🤔
You didn't have the cylinders honed? Or check clearance?
Why would he wanna hone a perfectly fine nikasil cylinder?he didnt change pistons because they melted or broke inside the cylinder running..no need to hone here.
How do the SPI pistons you're installing hold up? I've heard 50/50 good and bad news with them. Now, you from experience I am in need of pistons. Would you recommend these as a good, cheap, lasting piston? Thanks.
they last, i have them in sleds, when they burn down it not piston related.
They last long enough with the right fuel/oil mixture
where did you buy your royal purple assembly lube?? i cant get any at my local powersports shop or online! any options????
Don't know if you're still having a problem, but SLP works too.
Should i use a oem pistons for more reliability or spx does the same?
Different strokes for different folks
Its been a while, but do you want to 'seat' your gasket as well? with a little oil? please advise
No, all the engine manufactureres ive asked say no.
Keep them dry
I am doing a top end on a 2005 rev 600 renegade Sri ho and had to get a new cylinder for one side....I am currently putting everything back together and am bolting the head and am having issues with the bolts being to long and bottoming out on 3 holes of the new cylinder....do you think the refurbished cylinder may not have been drilled and tapped properly after reconditioned....just wondering if you have ever come across this issue?
jack presswood I’ve got exact same sled and had to replace one cylinder.
Wrong hole buddy, those long bolts go in different holes.... I can't remember which holes are deeper but there 100% is
My 1000 SDI Rotax locked-up on me last winter. Does anyone think it could only be a seized piston, or is it the nightmare scenario I'm hoping it's not, ( crankshaft bearings ) ? I'm gonna' start to dig into it in the next week or so. Any suggestions?
take the plugs out and make sure its not hydro locked. spray some penetrating oil in the cylinders if not hydolocked and let sit for a few days - then try to move the clutch back and forth by hand - if that doesnt work put a rachet on the clutch and try to turn it gently - if it wont turn youll need to tear things apart.
What ever happend to this sled. I cant find any riding videos just the build?
Would my 02 MXZ X 800 have non caged needle bearings as well? Gotta do a piston and jug on it and would appreciate the knowledge. Cheers!
think so, my 03 Lynx Enduro 600 had those bearings.
Yes. Get rid of them. Aftermarket caged stuff is good. And it is cheap.
Just be sure to cover the top of the case where the connecting rod comes through just to be safe
Are the rings already gapped?
Yes I have several videos on that
How do the SPI pistons hold up
Good!
how would u change a piston on the trail?
Youd do it quickly before the sun sets to the west
Hummm my bearings have never not been caged nore have I ever had them just fall out like that ??
Here's a hero cookie
why didn't you show the spacers for the old wrist pin needle bearings
This comment reeks of ignorance
Do you know of whereabouts I can purchase a piston for a 1968 Evinrude ' Sail Master ' ??
Dennis kirk or royal distributing maybe
. i wish that i had scene this before i rebuilt mine lol
I was told that there is an upside right for the ring, what is the easiest why to determined it position? At 944 you mention to line up pin /ring so that is doesn't get in the wrong spot I'm not sure what we are talking about. Witch pin are we watching for where dose the gap sit on the ring thanks lost a little bit would you mind explaining thanks.
Funny part is I made the y pipe mistake and it was a night-mare.
The rings have a dot stamped into them that side faces upwards to the head
The ring goes on the piston and turns so that each end of the ring have the pin in the center it's usually off to the side of the exhaust port or else the piston ring wont compress the end gap is the opening of the ring theres two ends you squeeze the ring onto the piston to put the cylinder on that's the ring gap but unless your running nitrous oxide dont worry about the end gap
I would not recommend 100LL with a race head. I run 100LL in my watercross mod but keep the compression ratio bellow 14:1. I beleive the race heads are 15 or 16:1, not 100% sure. That is too much for 100LL and it will detonate and eventually fail. Run c-14 or get new domes and run pump gas.
did you have to set the ring gap on the rings or do they come pre gapped?
james serafinchan i always gap them
He always checks the gap unless Louis is running nitrous oxide they'll have the right amount of end gap 99.99% of the time I've never built a motor that had to have the gap filed down.
orgs parts is about a 5 minute drive from my house
my sled has 7000 miles starting to lose compression would you just do top or complete rebuild
depends on the type of motor......
I'd just do top of I was you if you're concerned have the case opened and check the bottom out I've got sleds that made it 30 000 kms before doing the bottom end
In the backcountry, sled won’t start, lemme just swap my pistons REAL QUICK
Seriously, have you ever done a rebuild on the trail?
The only reason youd rebuild on trail is if you were in a riding area that's to steep and deep to have someone pull your broke down sled to a heated garage then youd get it done with cold fingers and a few cuss words and fire it up.
should have u not honed it to seat the rings beter ??
Nikasil coated cylinders ya dont wanna hone unless they have piston slag melted onto them ya cant scrape off or they have a small groove then ya can lube them good while running the hone in and fixing the mess keep the hone moving and keep it lubed you'll be fine.
theres that screw driver lol
that a bad rod bearing how many times did u use it. i changed a lot of piston and never had a bearing come out like that that had a lot of miles on it
If you changed an older rotax 700 from early 2000s then youd have the same issue as they wernt caged
What, you dont hone your cilinders?
these are nikasil coated cylinders, very hard and durable. they can be cleaned with scotch-brite, But to hone needs to be a special diamond hone. These cylinder will far outlast cast iron. The downside is that they are a bit pricey to have recoated if they are damaged or ever wear out
Joe S ok thank you
@@jomishx lol any hone will do use a good cheap lube like atf or diesel have someone add lube while the hones moving ya dont wanna dry the hone out and burn through the nikasil coating.
Im going to work on a ultra so i was wondering how much this costs
he mentioned the kit was $200....
hahah excuse me i ment make no male :p
These engines really need to be designed better, particularly the Rotax. Seriously, a rebuild required every 300 hours? Humanity as a whole is pretty sick and tired of having to rebuild engines. Somebody needs to design an engine that will run for god damn forever and never break. If it requires titanium in it to build it, use titanium. If it requires aluminum, use aluminum. If it requires vanadium steel, use effing vandium steel. Whatever engineering and metulurgy it takes to make an engine you never have to fuck with every again. You can't tell me in 500 years of designing and building engines, humanity still can't build one that is worth a fuuuckkk for reliability.
I can't speak for everybody, but I don't enjoy working on engines at all. I'd rather go to the dentist to get two root canals. I do it because I have to, because of piss poor engineering. The worse thing is I am usually not the orginal person making the buying decisions on this crap, I just end up with this kind of things used and second hand. So I have no input on deciding what engineering to support with my dollars or not. You folks need to demand more from your manufactuers, and stop buying stuff that has crap under the hood.
I agree with you.
But when it costs more than an airplane, no one is going to buy it.
I have a 2002 rotax 600, 13,000+ trail miles on it, completely original, and still runs like a swiss watch and still has hone marks in the cylinder walls. They don't need a rebuild every 300 hrs. Even at an average of 40MPH this sled would have 325 hours on it and is nowhere near in need of a rebuild. Trail average would be closer to 30MPH in my area, for the most part.
Nothing will run forever if you're constantly beating the shit out of it and you're dreaming if that's what you expect.
+Pete Loomis Consumption society....i agree....
yamaha 540