Ford Fusion Purge Valve Replacement // 2.0L Ecoboost 2013-2020 // HOW TO
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- čas přidán 6. 08. 2024
- GET YOUR PURGE VALVE👇
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In this video we replace the purge valve on my 2015 Ford Fusion with the 2.0L ecoboost engine. I go over the symptoms associated with what happens when they fail, removal and installation as well. Other common names for this part at fuel tank vent valve, canister purge valve or fuel tank purge valve. These are fairly common parts to replace. Mine first failed around 75k miles and failed again around 162k miles. Part itself is around 50-70 dollars and is fairly simple to replace. The only difficult part is releasing some of the connection points. Very few tools are needed for this job and I highly recommend you try to do this yourself versus paying someone to do it for you. Hope this video helps, let me know how we did in the comments below. Thanks!
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Hi thank you for this video! Do you know, can I remove the purge valve from the tubing and only replace the purge valve? I want to avoid having to dig inside to replace all the vacuums and wondered if I can just switch the valves without the tubes?
THANK YOU. After having this problem for a long time and knowing what it was I finally have the money to fix it, and now that I have the part this was the absolute best video I have seen on it. This needs to be the first video on CZcams when you look this up
Like, share and subscribe will all help! Check out our give away we are doing!
This is happening to my ‘17 sport. The Ford dealership is the only shop that had an opening for Monday, what should I expect to pay to have it fixed?
@@AceFitPro714 I man i hope you see this soon/ fast enough. Just saw this notification. DO IT YOURSELF. It's a ltiny bit of a pain in the ass but it's so doable! the dealship(I live in canada) will probab;y charge hundrends fora job you could do yourself in 1 or even less than 1 hour.
Miami florida here, they wanna charge me $650 !!! Thank God i saw this video in time
I'm just up the road in daytona area!
Thank you so much for reviewing the symptoms. Nothing worse than a video about replacing a part than when you know it could be multiple different things but the symptoms in this case make it very clear.
You're welcome! Thanks for the feed back!
what the fuck are the symptoms
Thank you so much for posting this video. My car had all three symptoms plus the service engine light. Bottom connector was a pain in the butt, didn’t have any kind of pic. Engine runs so much smoother now
Awesome to hear! Yea it's definitely a pain, I wish there was some sort of trick without disassembling alot of the engine bay but you got it done!
This was by far the best of these videos, thanks! That bottom one is the hardest to remove, but stick with it. I took the others out, removed the sensor as shown here, then you can rotate the bottom one enough so you can push the clips and get a 90 degree pick under the top and pull it up. Pops right out then. When goign back in, recommend a little lube on that one. Start it, then use whatever you have to get some leverage. I used a wrecking bar to get behind it and push it until I could snap the locking ring. On the purge valve, there's a piece of rubber where it mounts to the bracket. Don't forget to take that out of the old assembly to securely mount it on the bracket.
Total time for a complete DIY'er: 1 hour.
Great insight and tips! Thank you
My check engine light just came May 1st. Ran a diagnostic check and got a P1450 code. Bought the canister purge valve today and changed out the part thanks to this video. I didn't allow the light to stay on long enough to experience any symptoms.
Very helpful! I ended up just cutting the hoses to the two lower connections so I could spin them around so I could undo the clips easier.
That's a good idea! Glad you were able to get it done!
Bossman thank u for not editing this I needed to know it's not just me struggling with these damn clips lol
I try to keep it as real and lifelike as possible! Appreciate the feed back. You got it done though right?
Yes sir but for some damn reason my ac is blowing hot air lol when it rains it pours Bossman
Had this issue and let it go for too long. Now I'm freaking with other engine issues. Thanks for helping me replace this.
Sorry to hear that, what's the car doing? Maybe I can help
You did a amazing working showing how to replace the part, really appercaite your work😁
Thank you for the positive feedback
Thank you for this video just what I needed my ford edge failed I thought was canister purge valve …stripped it out so replace that too
Thank you for sharing this video! This is EXACTLY what has been going on with my 2013 Fusion and I just returned home from the diagnostic test and was told this was in fact the problem. Now to share this video with my husband so he knows what is going on a little better, too!
Also, my car has 158,645 miles and this is the first time this has ever happened.
Happy to hear this helped you out! Definitely share and hope you get it solved
Just ended up with this problem and I have a 2014! Wonder if it's a factory problem
Respect for showing the struggle
Just want to be as real as possible for you guys!
Local mechanics told me it was the Fuel Pump Module in tank, $1500 later and it repeated exact symptoms described in this video. I found the solution and thanks to your instruction, will be doing this myself.
Sorry to hear that but hopefully you can get it done yourself!
@@THEDriverMod_ Lesson learned but happy I found your video, thanks!
I almost had this happen to me but I'm a natural negotiator and made that guy understand he wasn't just quoting just anyone. I didn't pay till he showed me it passed diagnostics
Wow that it difficult to see I'm glad I made the decision to pay to have the dealership fix mine. Most often common ford fuision fixes are minor and easy to locate and see.
Great video! Glad you didn't do those edits you were saying as it helped to know how much of a struggle the yellow clip was to be. I ended up using hand pruners to cuts the old hose assembly out of the way. Since I could only get one hand in there on the yellow one, I bent the ear back and used a really long pair of needle nose pliers to twist the ear completely off. I could then push the yellow clip out with the picker one handed. I noticed for the new one, they changed the clip design, so hopefully the next time will be easier in 10 years.
Thanks fir the solid feedback!
Thank you for your video. You explained it so well, including the symptoms and a lot of content creators don’t do that.
Appreciate the postive feed back!
Thanks for this video mine kept making that weird noise and I would have to pull my car over and hurry up and push on the button where the gas goes into release the pressure or my car wouldn’t stay running- going to do this once the part comes in
Thanks a lot my brother!!! This was really helpful 🙇🙏
You're welcome!
That bottom connector is a big B! Thought I was going to have to take the alternator out until I saw this video! Appreciate the extra effort in explaining how the clasp actually worked. Didnt have the 90deg pick but was able to make a couple very long/ thin screw drivers work to release. All the other connections no problem. Thanks for the vid!
You're welcome! Appreciate the comment feedback!
This video is amazing!!! Thank you! I’m going to install mine tomorrow since the part came in the mail today.
Nice
@@THEDriverMod_ just an update, i installed mine using your tutorial with no prior experience and my car is all fixed! can't thank you enough!
@@user-oq8op2pd1n that's awesome to hear!
Haha; you went to great lengths at around 2:30 to avoid saying that it sounds like your car is farting from the fuel filler. I'm happy to do that for you, if it doesn't want to start after fill up and then sounds like that car is farting, you have this issue. Also, that one clip down in the engine by the alternator is a huge pain to get at. If this happens again, I'll have a mechanic fix it just to avoid that grief.
My best advice for getting that one off is to cut the hose, because you have to rotate the attachment to more easily get the tab pulled. It's nearly impossible with the full hose and fittings attached. To get it back on, get it in place and then take a very long and wide flat screwdriver and leverage it against the alternator housing to push the fitting fully on. It's brutal to try and do it with your hands alone.
I did because that's what it sounds like lol all good helpful tips for others watching this video!
Thanks for the video. Same thing was going on with my daughters 15 Fusion 2.0 65,000 miles. While doing this I removed the air intake snorkel just to have better access to the valve. I also cut the hose going to that bottom connection so I could spin it around. What a pain getting that one. Also used a mini pry bar to get that same one back on. Your video was the best one I found on this problem. Thanks again!
Glad you got it handled yourself. Thank you for the positive feedback for others!
@Ruben Laugon mini pry bar. It was from a set I got from Harbor Freight. Nothing too big. I can’t remember if I had the clip open or closed when I snapped it on. I would play it safe and open it then close it when it’s on all the way and give it a tug to make sure it’s on good.
@Ruben Laugon Glad it worked out. 👍
@mike_O’Neill hey guys I have a lot of trouble putting back that bottom connector. Did you buy the exact same brand as in the video ? If yes, please give more details.
Also how do I unlock the clip? (The new part doesn’t have those yellow ears)
@@sheridanzampou8406 I bought the replacement at Napa. Mine had the tabs. That bottom one was a pain. I used a small pry bar to help push that bottom one on. Someone also mentioned using a silicone lubricant to help.
Good video ,good explanation!thank you!
Thank you!
I just bought the valve and changed it out and all is fine. Didn't have to mess with all the hoses. Thanks for the video.
I’m about to buy only the valve, I’m a little concerned about the hose; did you have to cut the hose? Or you just pulled it out and put the new one in?
@@hectorvalenzuela8817
I just took the new valve to my local Auto Parts store and got a hose to fit the valve. It was a little bigger, but it worked. Good luck. I hear the cause is due to overfilling the gas tank. Do not "top-off" your tank. Once the gas nozzle shuts off that's good.
Thanks Happy New Year's 😊
thanks for the video my man! for that bottom connector, I didn't have a 90 degree pick that long but after struggling with a short 90 pick, I borrowed a more hook style pick of the same size and got it right away! took care of codes p2196, p1450, and p0456 and of course stopped the stalling after refueling on my mother in laws 2015 fusion 2.0!
Good work, happy to help!
Just started having this issue after fillinh up thank you 🙏🏾🙏🏾
You're welcome! Get that fixed!
Great video man thanks
I appreciate the positive feed back! Happy Happy help!
Thank you for a fantastic video
You're welcome!
Thanks for this! That bottom piece really got me frustrated but I did like you said and used something to pry out the yellow piece. Saved me time and more frustration.
Awesome! Nice job, happy it helped
Had all 3 symptoms. The codes I pulled were P0496- Evaporative Emission System High Purge Flow
P2196- O2 Sensor Signal Stuck Rich Bank 1 Sensor 1
My 2019 Ford Fusion Titanium 2.0 ecoboost called for part # HG9Z9D289D
I saw a few comments on a Fusion forum saying you don't need to replace the hose with the yellow color head (save yourself the trouble!) I just snipped the zip ties and changed the 2 main hoses connected to the purge valve. The only tool I used was a small flat head screw driver. It took a total of 10 minutes to remove and replace the hoses. Once I reset the codes and started the car it sounded like it purred instead of the chugging idle sound it made for a couple of weeks now. If you don't have a scanner tool to reset the code just disconnect your negative terminal on the battery for about 5-10 minutes and reconnect. I just changed this today so I will update if the code reappears. Thanks for this video!
You're welcome. Great feedback
Smooth video, it was very helpful and provides a lot of information.
Thank you! Happy it was helpful and thanks for the positive feed back
Thanks for your help 👍
No problem. Glad it helps!
As others have said. Thanks for the video and leaving the struggle. I got everything but the bottom one off, now me and my numb fingers are going to harbor freight to grab a pick to finish this. Luckily the new part adds an extra connector at the solenoid so if I ever have to replace it again, it's only the 2 at the solenoid
You're very welcome, thanks for the comment, feedback and appreciation. You're almost done!
Thanks man gonna give it a shot tomorrow. My fiancés fusion is on the 4th one in 60k miles lmaooooo
Woooowww! Good luck!
Gonna be doing this soon on my 2.0 explorer same motor and everything however the intercooler piping is setup like the 3.5 fortunately.
Gives me a whole lot of space to work with
Nice!
Thank you for posting this video. The Ford dealership wanted $210+ for this part. Insanity.
You're welcome!
I took my car to a mechanic who charged 750 based off their “code reader” and “smoke test” that detected no leaks but picked my car up after they replaced the solenoid. The next day my car stalled getting gas. This is a great video.
It could be the low pressure fuel sensor
@@THEDriverMod_ my purge calve sits different than the one in this video but mine is 2015. Do you know of any good links with pics?
@@nicoleleu5984 I do not. I have the 2.0 ecoboost so you must have a different engine
I'm just now having this problem! It didn't pass smog test. Because of this. Of course check engine light was on because of it. I got my fusion brand spanking new in 2014 and just had this problem 1st time. It's my first American car. I was so nervous to get it because people say foreign cars are much better with less issues. I must have gotten a great batch lol 😂 I love my car 💕 I talk to her too she's my baby 🥰
I’ve had my 2014 since new. Over 190k miles on it with very few problems! Had one sensor go bad (fixed under warranty) and an AC compressor went out at 160k. Now, I likely have this sensor to replace as well 😂
Overall a great, low maintenance car!
My car is a 2020 fusion titanium it would always stumble after filling up like it was going to stall but it would save itself and now i have a p2096 post catalyst fuel trim lean and i feel like mine is caused by this purge valve failing and causing a vacuum leak which it creating the lean condition i got the part I'm installing it asap i hope it cures it, just wanting to check in and see if this part failing has caused my code before
Very helpful. thank you
You're welcome. Thank you for the feedback
Question pls. On the left rear under of my ford fusion 2017 when I take a long trip there is white smog coming from like a valve after I parked but it only last few minutes. It is not from the exhaust , it is from a small valve on the left rear under side. What is it ?
I will have to do this soon. Mine idles super rough after refueling, has since I bought it. It does run better if i put it in neutral if I need to stop right after leaving the gas station.
You can do it!
Thanks so much for the video. Had an appointment with the dealership who wanted to charge me $165 just for diagnostic and probably another $200-$300 for the repair, parts and labor. Went to the local Auto Store and had the code evaluated, found out the purge valve was a possible cause of the code. The symptoms you mentioned fit my situation exactly. Found your video while at the Auto Store, saw how easy this was, and $87 and an hour later the problem is solved and I have a new purge valve! Thanks!
you're welcome!
They wanted $700 from me.
Just had dealer replace mine. Symptoms were stalling at low idle. No check engine light came on. Two independent mechanics couldn't find what problem was. Since replaced no stalling and performance of car is much improved. Didn't really feel performance issue beforehand but felt improvement after. Ford mechanic said there was a vacuum leak somewhere along the tubing. Thanks for the video. Really nice job explaining and documenting procedure.
Thanks, that's definitely a unique experience on your end. Never seen that before myself
@@THEDriverMod_ should have mentioned car has 107k miles...first non-maintenance repair...best car ever since my very first in 1970
These cars look awesome and are super reliable from my experience. Mine is at almost 175k miles
This is happening to my ‘17 sport. The Ford dealership is the only shop that had an opening for Monday, what should I expect to pay to have it fixed?
@@AceFitPro714 depends on labor rate, are you paying for diagnosis too or not. I would like to say anywhere between 300-900 dollars
Salute to everyone grind, Motivations, accomplishments , families , goals.....
Thanks. Excellent view of the view of the EVAP valve and replacement. Got my 13 Titanium via auction, deficiencies included. 1st iindication was rpm limited to rough 4 to 4500 rpm. Replaced coils and basic plugs with Iridium TT plugs. Running performance 100%. Then, as you stated, came the idle roughness, then gas tank groans and finaly the P1450. Thx again.
No worries , glad I could help!
Have this on my 2020 ford fusion every time I put gas in it. It only does it when I put gas in it. Happen 3 times with it not starting up like it's suppose to. I get my parts on the 9th of March and will not be putting gas in it until I put the new purge/sylenoid valve in. No more evaporated emissions and I can put gas in without stressing 😌
Awesome video, thank you! I’ve got a 2019 Fusion Titanium with the 2.0L in it. I need to replace this part. It looks identical to the one I need to replace but every website I go to says it’s not compatible? Do you happen to have any insight on whether or not it should work? Thanks in advance!
Unfortunately I do not know why, maybe the part number got uodated?
Hi love the info you provided .I have a question I have a 2013 Fusion and the code comes up P0457 fuel filler inlet so I cleaned the flaps in the inlet still have code after resetting it ..Could changing the canister purge valve fix this problem ? The check engine light comes on after fill up after it reaches 1/2 a tank of fuel .
It's definitely possible
I have p2450 code what piece need to replace?
My car does this sound after driving it for a couple minutes and I see my dashboard and the car seems to be trying to pull energy to stay on. I’ve checked it with a scanner and I get the code p2196. I thought that was the problem and got that part changed and it still did the noise and the part on the dashboard where one needle also shakes and my car shakes a little as well
Hi my car has the same problem. Did you fix yours?
damn my 2019 joint just got that engine light 😐 it still got warranty tho i hope they fix it quick
Hopefully!
Do you you know how to replace the e-vap canister that is located in the back of the car? On a 2018 ford fusion 2.0 ecoboost awd.
Thank you in advance!
I've never done it but those are always pretty straight forward
just curious, if this part is faulty can you feel air blowing from the bottom connections ? i have a rough idle that gets worse when i turn the a/c on. the thing is my car doesnt show any engine light but when i connect it to my blue driver and see the live feed, purge valve monitor shows yellow indicator rather than a green checkmark
Might be carbon build up on the intake valves
Just a tip. Cut the tubes so you can rotate the clips for easier disassembly. New part snaps in no problem
That's a great tip!
Hello... great video!!! two questions thou. 1- Can i just change the purge valve? and 2- What's the part number?? 🙂
I have not yet found just the valve itself. DM me on Instagram and I'll send you a link
Hey I’m having the same questions, although I think I found the part in Amazon. Is it ok if replace only the valve? Thanks for your video!
Yes you can if you can get it separately
Hi thank you for this video! Do you know, can I remove the purge valve from the tubing and only replace the purge valve? I want to avoid having to dig inside to replace all the vacuums and wondered if I can just switch the valves without the tubes?
Not with the part I used. I've never done it that way so I don't know
@@marioramirez2096 This is what I am about to try today. I have bought just the purge valve itself, not the entire assembly with various connections. I plan to heat up the hose where it meets the purge valve and wiggle it out, or cut it and reattach new part with heavy duty heat shrink tubing like you mentioned. We shall see. Certainly easier than messing with that bottom clip and the part is $15 instead of $100. 2014 Fusion 2.0L
Great video! Do you have the part number for the assembly? Ford Parts keeps saying the only purge valve for my '17 Titanium (2.0 Eco) is the 9F945, which does not seem to be it...In fact it seems to say that the part shown here is not correct for my vehicle , yet I have it in the same spot and routing as your video ... At a loss for sure.
I unfortunately do not have the OEM part number. I apologize. They might call it something else, purge valve, tank vent valve, canister purge valve.... it's usually one of those 3.
Not sure if this helps because this is for a 3rd party version, but doorman makes this part and the number is 911-775. You can get it on amazon for about $60, but it'll be around $100 if you go to an auto parts store. Hope this helps!
@@michaelpalmieri539 awesome info!
I believe you can purchase the Vapor Canister Purge Valve separately.
I've heard that as well but at the time I made the video, you could not
162k miles and has only needed two purge valves?!?! If thats true, thats amazing. I know you go 12-14k miles with the Amsoil Signature Series, I am astonished. I guess the product delivers. I know ecoboost engines can be hit or miss in terms of long term reliability, that definitely speaks to the Amsoil product for sure!
Mine is 62k and I'm changing this little shthing😆 rn
Mine happened the first time at 75k
98k on mine ,16 fusion titanium and doing this for the first time.. thanks for the video hope all goes smoothly with my repair. Thanks again
kind friend good morning I ask for your help for my Ford c max 1.8 duratec petrol I will explain to you the car has two defects when I run on petrol the trigger goes off second defect when I accelerate on the gas and as if it were suffocating it lacks thrust what could it be? I thought about the Cannister filter behind the fuel tank and then changing the hose in front of the engine compartment with this solenoid. Do you think I can solve the problem? Thanks for your help, the car doesn't turn on the warning lights in the instrument cluster.🙏🏻
Sounds like 2 separate issues, not very familiar with those vehicles
This looks nothing like my 2017 ford fusion hybrid se engine can anyone help me figure out mine?
have a P0456 on my 2017 Ford Fusion . "Evaporative emission small leak detected" I was wondering if replacing the purge value well fix my issue? Because Ford is charging 450 to do it when the part is like 50$ and I think I can do it myself .
Highly likely that is the issue.
@@THEDriverMod_ Thank you brother for you input!
Great video, but a bit of warning.. if you are big of hand, that jump cut where the lower throttle body connection is removed is an hour+ long. :)
Great point!
Hey I have a 2018 fusion se, the check engine light came on and the code was p0456. Every time I’m done pumping gas, the car struggles to turn on and won’t turn on usually after the 2nd or 3rd time, could this be related to the code I got?
Yes. This procedure will fix the issue
Where do I get one for my 2018 fusion 1.5 ecoboost or will. 2016 purge valve work?
I can't speak to that. If I had to guess, I would say a 2016 1.5l and 2018 1.5l would likely be the same
Can you please tell me where did you buy the whole assembly? I called all auto parts stores around central and north jersey none of them have it and one Ford dealership only has solenoid.
Thank you in advance!
I get it off Amazon, I linked it in the video description!
I replaced the valve.. the engine light went off but the car is stopping while I drive & won’t go in reverse after it stops itself. I couldn’t make it half way around the block without having to cut the car off & back on
Sounds like something didn't get reconnected or there is another issue
Any idea why these go bad? I have 2014 se ecoboost and have had to change this 9 times in 4 years and currently its bad again..I usually take that coolant hose off by the 2 bottom ones to give enough room for 2 hands to work.
Topping off the tank is one way but 9 times in 4 years??? Really? Almost sounds like it might be something else lol that's excessive
Is there anything wrong with disconnecting the coolant hose? I have a 2013 and no matter what I do, I cannot disconnect that last vent valve. I need more space to work with.
There's never a problem with doing more to get your more space, just be prepared to catch coolant and top off when done
Do you have to put the vehicle in maintenance mode before you start pulling the fuel purge valve apart?
Maintenance mode?
I've seen this part sold as the solenoid only. The hoses are hard plastic, how would those come off without ruining the hoses to put on the new solenoid?
Not sure. For this car it is not available seperate that I've ever seen
@@THEDriverMod_ I have a 2013 1.6L Fusion was able to buy the valve separately. Actually I rarely saw them together in 1 purchase. Hoping I didn't make a mistake :S Part arrives today. Great video!
Good luck, sorry I don't have a specific video for the 1.6L!
Ive got p0456, took it to Ford. They’re trying to charge 749$. Would the part in your description work for a 2019 Ford Fusion se? Awd ?
If you have the 2.0 ecoboost engine yes, if it's the 2.5 non turbo or the 1.5 ecoboost than no it would not, same part name it sounds like but a different part number
Hey I have a 2017 ford fusion we 1.5 liter eco boost I want to know if this part will fit my car it says it doesn’t when I put in my car info on Amazon
You have a different engine so the part I used in this video will not fit your car.
I have a 2017 ford focus se and my check engine light came on but my issue is the canister vent solenoid ( CVS20 ), my question is the previous one is really lodged in the Vapor canister when lowering the canister do I need to worry about fuel coming out of the line or I don't need to worry?
The vent solenoid isn't even near the canister, the solenoid is under the hood. There shouldn't be any liquid in that line to begin with.
@@THEDriverMod_ the canister vent solenoid (PV516) is apart of the charcoal canister but mine is not unlocking should I just drop the canister to make it easier because it's a pain to do so while attached to the body?
@@THEDriverMod_ your thinking of the canister purge valve (PV691) that is located under the hood!
My bad. Thought your were referring to the vent solenoid under the hood, still should have any fuel in those lines, if you do it's from topping off your tank at the pump.
@@THEDriverMod_ Thanks for your help was nervous about having fuel dump on me while trying to remove
So, ignorant question here, but... if it's the purge valve itself that's bad can you simply replace the purge valve without replacing all the tubing/connections? Is there even a way to disconnect the tubing from the valve itself? I'm guessing the routed tubing plays an important role in the function of the valve, but, since it's just conducting flow is it absolutely necessary to remove it?
I believe it's possible but at the time the part was not available separately
@@THEDriverMod_ Right. I get that. I assume it's possible to disconnect the hose assembly room the valve? Using the old hose/tubing wouldn't hurt anything right (unless, of course, it was damaged)?
@@THEDriverMod_ Thanks for replying, by the way. Great video!
aslong as its not damaged and can be reattached @@kennywood6434
my purge valve connector the very last one refuses to come off, i got the rest off but this one just doesn’t go down when the pads are being pushed down any advice or help?
Small flat blade screw driver, long pick, strong fingers, different leverage and different angles. That's all I can really say
Hey!! I saw this video went to help my sister, figured it would save her a little money. Got it off in decent time felt like a surgeon using the pick on the bottom one. Anyway i was having trouble getting the bottom one back on, any helpful tip? Did you use a small large screw driver for leverage? Please help!!
A screw driver or pick try lubricating the connector with some oil or lubricant
Does the grey clip come out prior to going on? Or will it just snap on?
Also what kinda of lubricant?
@@guesswho4092 pb blaster, engine oil or something like that.
@Guess Who if it's a extra spacer then it comes off. It should just be a fitting with a quick release clip of some sort
Can someone tell me the part number?
Where did you get that long pick tool? Can’t find it anywhere
Snap on
Can I replace it and then drive to the auto store and get the codes cleared? Or does the code need to be cleared immediately after the repair, before driving?
It can be cleared at any time
@@THEDriverMod_ awesome, thank you for the video.
No problem! Best of luck
Im kind of glad you didn't edit all that stuff out. I'd rather go into it knowing its possibly going to be a pain in the azz haha.
Yea it can be alittle annoying and tedious, just stick to it
@@THEDriverMod_ Yea i got it. That lower one did kind of suck though! Thanks
@@THEDriverMod_ I also removed the intake pipe just to make the actual valve a little more accessible.
P04ef and p04b4 are the replacement of purge valve for 2019 Ford fusion hybrid?
I am not sure, what are those codes for?
@@THEDriverMod_ p04b4 and p04ef. I checked with pepboy ad they said those code for refueling vapor control valve. Is it the purge valve?
Yes, that is the same part, just a different name for it
I have been having rough idle issues and the fuel filler fart for a while and had this issue in the back of my mind and today my CEL came on with code P2196, and I think this is all related. I have the 2017 2.0 Fusion and when I go to purchase this part the amazon part fitment guide says it does not fit, but in looking at my actual engine it seems to be the exact same layout and part. Do you happen to know if I can go forward with this linked part even with a warning that it may not fit?
This repair is definitely where you should start with those concerns
As far as the part not fitting, I wouldn't always trust Amazon. If you order it and it's not gonna work, it can always be returned.
Ok an update. The part does NOT fit the 2017+ 2.0 because this engine has an additional hose connected on the top of the engine, but the valve itself is exactly the same from the mount to the splitter. I used a heat gun to remove the new valve off the hose assembly at the splitter and then cut the old one out at the same location. I softened the new hose with the heat gun and slid it on to the old splitter and reconnected everything. The engine is running very smoothly now and seemed to have regained some power.
So while the part isn’t an exact fit it can be doctored to fit properly.
Is there a reason why you're not taking the air flow tube off to make it easier to get to the part
You can if you want but some don't want to do any extra steps even of it makes the job "easier"
I’m having that same issue, does that canister valve in the description fit a 2020 ford fusion?
If it's a 2.0 ecoboost, yes
Can we verify this worked for the 2020. I have a 2019 se 2.0. Just want to be sure
Can I just replace the connector on the 1.5L it’s the part that’s failing on mine
You can do what ever you want, this video pertains to the 2.0 ecoboost engines
Will this video work for a 1.5 ecoboost or is it totally different? Harder? Same?
It is a different set up for the 1.5L ecoboost, the process will be about the same, symptoms of a bad purge valve o your car will be similar or the same tooo. ...just different connection points.
@@THEDriverMod_ will it be the same replacement part? It looks exact same, but auto parts stores online are saying it wont fit for my 1.5L
Yea I don't believe the 1.5L part is the same
would the same valve work for a 2020 ford fusion SE?
If you have the same engine yes
How to change flashing light on the front right side light
Look up my headlight bumb replacement video, that will point you in the right dorection
I was just told by a dealership the part would cost about $250 and labor would take 2 hours. Is that possible? Is there another purge valve that's harder to get to? Is this the ventilation purge valve?
I can't speak to what they are quoting but it sounds like the labor qoute is the 1 hour standard diagnosis and the 1 hour repair time. Parts cost have gone up industry wide. The part I have linked in the description is an aftermarket part but works just as well
Would this work on a 2020 ford fusion
Simple push tab he says. The bottom one cost me a good gash :)
💪🏾💪🏾
Thanks Zay🤙
What code was you getting to know that needed to be changed?
Did I not mention it in the video or description? If not I apologize, I don't remember off the top of my head
So I had this issue about a year almost 2 years ago. Got it replaced at a shop for $530. This past month the engine light came on for the same issue. How long do the valves last on the 2015 ford fusion se 2.0L? About that 1.5 year to 2 years? Or would this be caused by a deeper issue?
My first one lasted 4 years, second one last about 2 years, current one is about 2.5 years now. Hit or miss I guess
@@THEDriverMod_ ty!
How do you remove the bottom connector on the Dorman replacement part? Previous owner did this once but it needs it again. So I have the Dorman replacement connected to the engine but the clips work differently than the original. I also have an identical Dorman replacement that I intend to replace the current one with. I've been fiddling with it to try and figure out that bottom clip but it's hard to understand without also having the male piece to fiddle with.
Does the grey tab pull out? Or do you just push the ears away from each other and pull the connector off?
Smaller hands and longer picks would have made this a lot less painful!. Thanks for the video!!!
Most have been able to get it done
Nice video. Most that others made were atrocious. 🤣 I would comment though the P144A code, being an evap code, is recorded as a permanent code and cannot be cleared by a scan tool. The PCM will eventually run its vac test and clear itself if it passes. So whether the cause is the purge valve sticking open, a bad electrical connection or a vac hose leak, all will set the same P144A DTC. Those connectors are a pain for sure. Thanks!
I have all the issues that a bad purge valve would give such as when i fill my tank up my car has issues starting but i dont have any engine lights on my car. Do u think it could still by the purge valve?
Alright I’m at a loss. I need this exact part… I can’t find it anywhere. I’ve been to multiple auto part stores and they can’t find it either. Any link??
Find me on Instagram " thedrivermod_official "
@@THEDriverMod_ okay I found it followed. Any possible way you can help me with the part #?
Send me a PM and I'll find one for you
Anyone know if this is the same for the 1.5L engine? Part number too?
It is different part number. Still relatively just as easy