I was nervous it would rim OR disc, but I'm very happy indeed to see it's both. Disc brakes have arrived, and they deserve to be considered to be equal with rim brakes :)
Nope, they are far superior - at least in my mind :) Its incredible how little sand or road grime you can get on your rims before the brakes start sounding like they are chewing right through your rims
The problem isn't that they have arrived and are not being considered equally (as they are here, fair enough), it's that they are being marketed as universally superior to rim brakes, which they aren't. It's quite outrageous that many of the big American manufacturers are refusing to offer rim brake options on high-end 2019 bikes, and even blocking the sale of high end rim brake framesets in many cases. This is purely to try to force a reluctant market to adopt disc brakes universally, which I am going to enjoy watching fail spectacularly over the next few years.
And it's incredible how much more disc brakes tend to squeal than rim brakes generally.. Unless you are riding off-road, on gravel or in torrential rain on a daily basis the phenomenon you describe shouldn't be an issue with rim brakes.
Neil To each their own, I guess. Nowadays I run rim brakes on my Brompton and discs on my full-size moose. Given the choice, I’d go for discs every single time despite having had the odd warped disc. Both systems work, but I’ve always found the idea of braking at the expense of wearing down your rim(!) an inherently poor and wasteful design choice for any non-racer out there. Just my 0.02c, though.
Rims last for years and years unless you are riding them regularly in cruddy conditions - are you in Finland? If so then discs are definitely good for the winter but surely you don’t need them on the road in summer? I certainly didn’t when I was there..
Toeing in fixed it! Don't worry if at first it doesn't seem to work, halfway into my following ride it all setteled and the noise stopped. What a relief, especially on these quiet early morning rides...!
For disc brake pads, put a drop or 2 of Fairy liquid on pads rub the pads together under warm water. Keep repeating until water runs clear or you can see the gold specks in the pad surface again. Credit to High Carb Rider
For toe in, i just attach a zip tie to the back end of the pad. Don't snug it to tight, cause you can reuse it next time. Better than carboard cause now you can see everything better.
I also found the ultegra metal pads to squeal horrible in wet conditions. the l02a resin ones are much quieter. also, those resin pads seem to brake much more even in wet conditions, the metal onces sometimes seem to not really bite when the discs are wet, like rim brakes.
Rubber brakes pads can dry out, with use or no use, and become as hard as a formica counter top. Cleaning, filing, sanding won't fix it. Replace the pads with fresh 'soft' rubbery pads and avoid prayer stops.
In my case, the disc pads had glazed over. 1. Pop them out 2. Rough them up a bit with some sandpaper (perpendicular to the rotation). 3. Re-center the pads (loosen the calliper bolts, hold down the brake lever, tighten the bolts). 4. Bed the brakes in like they are new (see your manufacturer recommendation for this). Not only did the squeal go away, but the brakes more than doubled in their effectiveness (half the stopping distance at speed). I didn’t realise how badly glazed they’d become.
I find wrapping a stout rubber band around the back third of the brake pad works better for setting toe-in than a piece of cardboard (etc.). While clamping down on the brake levers, the rubber band provides a lot of friction, reducing the chances that the brake pad will rotate slightly out of position when tightening the retaining allen bolt. Does anyone have a recommendation for a brand of brake pads that is less prone to squealing? That would be a great piece of information to add to this video!
msteed68 Thanks! I've considered getting Kool Stops before. I have a pair of Shimano pads on my bike now. They can be a bit temperamental unless everything is perfectly set-up and clean.
My city bike have a drum brake, and every morning it squeak very loud. I think that some moisture have accumulated over night, but it really is hard to clean the inside of a drum brake. So i just ride the bike while holding on the brake until it becomes quiet..
@@minuteman4199 yes but this is the less ecological decision. You need energy and resources to produce them so be so respectfull and use them till the end if possible as long as they dont present any risk for your own.
@@mathieub3953 you're right, but brake pads for the disc brakes on my commuter costs like 5€, so going through the whole process of cleaning, sanding and cleaning them once more before installing them is almost never worth the effort and time spent.
Usu a blowtorch And gently heat pads, this will burn off any oil or brake fluid. Then gently sand pads with sandpaper on a flat surface and blow off any dust that remains. Replace all components and you’re good to go. Clean rotors with isopropyl alcohol and I guarantee this works every time.
Sometimes squeaky brake can be good. Usually when some clown walks in to road without looking to make sure there is nothing coming. Then the screech of the brakes makes them jump. Either on to the path or in front of the lorry coming the other way. If they have any sense then they jump on the path. If they don't, Then there will be one upset lorry driver.
My disc brakes are as quiet as can be in dry conditions but the moment they get wet they turn into a pair of banshees. I'm using sintered pads on both front/rear. Is that pretty normal for discs?
I've found that disc brakes are very sensitive to the caliper being lined up correctly. Though they still scream a little in the wet which sets of the incident detect on my Garmin which is exceedingly annoying!
This only applies to disk brakes. You will need a blow torch and new pads. With the wheel off the bike and the pads changed, spray the disk with degreaser, take a bit of kitchen towel and wipe off any muck. Then take the blow torch, or lightly heat the disk, you will see the the remaining fluid evaporate. Heat both sides of the disk and make sure to not heat the disk so much that it changes colour.
@Robert Trageser I help out in a local shop. we use a blow torch lightly to evaporate the brake cleaner (which is effectively just degreaser) not to the point where they are so hot that they could break or deform. Not arguing about this as there isn't much point.
I still have the problem of brake squeal, I already got a new pair of pads (carbon specific from mavic) and toed them in. I do ride mavic cosmic rims and they appear a bit glossy, did I overheat them? Both front and rear are bloody noisy. Please give me some tips, should I use other pads or is mavic known for this? Rims are 6 months old.
a hack I'd like to mention is use a car pump for bike tyres there particularly good with Schrader value they pump up tyres super quick and super hard to a good psi the caveat can be bulky to carry just wanted to suggest that Idea great videos love them thanks adam
The grab on the front then pulls the rest of the brake pad in at the back, so you get pretty good contact, but without the squeal. I think the squeal is caused by initial contact setting up vibration without grab to dampen it. It's a bit like getting the rim of a wine glass to sing. With firmer pressure the wine glass doesn't sing, and with a flat contact on bike rims there is equally a series of high frequency vibrations that can be cured with the firm grab of the front of the pad.
Surely the "toe in" part of this video is negated by the tightening of the bolt holding the shoe to the caliper? It's not as though the shoe itself is slightly angled to allow "toe in" so I can't see how the business card thing works.
John Mac - If you have older brakes without the spherical washers that help you adjust toe-in, you can buy brake shoes and holders with those adjusting washers or find some at Rene Herse Cycles or Grand Bois.
The best way to get rid of the squealing disc brake disease is just to go back to rim brake!! Never had this problem with rims; get it every ride with discs despite cleaning rotors and pads everyday
Hello body, I have a concern regarding my carbon rims. I recently get the mavic pro sl carbon. The thing is that at the beginning of my ride when I brake it has a normal sound nevertheless if I take a long way down using the brakes suddenly start a terrible squeal sound. I already cleaned rims and pads even I changed the pads but the squeal is still present. Does it normal for carbon rims ? There are any brand pads that will eliminate this sound? Thanks in advance!
Okay so disks and pads very easy to clean. Step one wipe step two blowtorch the disk and pads lightly to remove any thing left step 3 reinstall and boom brand new granny brakes.
If you have a disc brake set up it could be any number of things causing the squeal - make sure your rotors and pads are clean and free of any contaminants, the pads are correctly bedded in, and that both pistons are moving together rather than unevenly. If all of those things are fine then you'll need to do some more investigating, it's possible the calliper could be out of alignment with the disc, or the disc is slightly warped.
I have tryed 6 diferent manufacturers of the pads, i have cleaned the discs and pads, than i have greased the discs, than cleaned it all , changing the pads, etc, ets, trying even to lubricate the pads with oil, ...greased the guides, ... i even bored the pads, to make holes into which i installed the graphite sticks , ... and, No result at all . I tested the main bearings - no movement . I made a new springs that are pushing the pads aside, ... than i glued the pads to the pistons , ... and, again : no and no result !!! ! !!! I will try with the neodymium magnets this week , if i will manage to assemble it all , ... them all . Or do you have any new idea in the between time ? Thanks. Pwy.
I have cleaned the pads and discs, i have changed 6 diferent manufacturers of the pads, bought new rotors, have lubricated the discs , i have gresed the discs, than cleaned it all again, ... etc, ... i have even drilled the holes into pads, and installed the graphite sticks into it, ... but - no effect . I even glued the pads to the pistons, as it worked a few years ago, but now - Not anymore - No result . I checked the main bearings, - perfect as new - with no walking/play. I will try the neodymmium magnets this week, if i will be able to assemble it , because they are very strong . In the mean time, do you have any new idea about the problem ? Thank you. Pwy.
@Robert Trageser My driveway has a 18" drop, and then its 300 miles to the next change in elevation for me, lol. Flat beach area. I don't know anything about bike brake design, but I am sure they have different design goals than car brakes which I know more about. In cars, the grease is used to dampen out the resonant frequencies caused by impurities and manufacturing defects. I wonder if it would do the same thing on a bike caliper, if it could be retrofitted into the design or a new, "silent" piece of kit.
@Robert Trageser In the US the ubiquitous product for cars is "CRC Disc Brake Quiet". Its an thick acrylic polymer fluid that kind of feels like hard rubber gasket after a while. Nothing like copper anti-seize. You coat the entire rear of the pad with it before installation.
@Robert Trageser All good stuff Robert, this part of youtube doesn't seem to attract many trolls. As far as design goals for car vs bike brakes, yes they all serve to convert kinetic energy into heat, however I suspect a car brake system can be quite a bit heavier due to the energy available, with more thermal mass in the rotors and pads than a bicycle. There is also more space to fit additional parts, like noise canceling layers of rubber material. The Brake Quite stuff is there to absorb the energy that was made from glazing and contamination; it is not required for perfectly conditioned brakes. Car brakes and bike brakes have the same challenges, but they are designed differently for good reasons.
I run disc brakes on my winter steed and have tried all of the methods mentioned without success, i even went as far as replacing the pads and rotors this year but they still squeal when coming to a complete stop, the front one locked on the other day too. I suspect it could be something to do with the pistons, but having already spent a small fortune i am loath to replace these unless it will definitely resolve the issue, have you any further hints/tips/guidance on this?
Noisy brakes is the best way to warn people that you're about to run them over, why bother fixing them?
I was nervous it would rim OR disc, but I'm very happy indeed to see it's both. Disc brakes have arrived, and they deserve to be considered to be equal with rim brakes :)
Nope, they are far superior - at least in my mind :) Its incredible how little sand or road grime you can get on your rims before the brakes start sounding like they are chewing right through your rims
The problem isn't that they have arrived and are not being considered equally (as they are here, fair enough), it's that they are being marketed as universally superior to rim brakes, which they aren't. It's quite outrageous that many of the big American manufacturers are refusing to offer rim brake options on high-end 2019 bikes, and even blocking the sale of high end rim brake framesets in many cases. This is purely to try to force a reluctant market to adopt disc brakes universally, which I am going to enjoy watching fail spectacularly over the next few years.
And it's incredible how much more disc brakes tend to squeal than rim brakes generally.. Unless you are riding off-road, on gravel or in torrential rain on a daily basis the phenomenon you describe shouldn't be an issue with rim brakes.
Neil To each their own, I guess. Nowadays I run rim brakes on my Brompton and discs on my full-size moose. Given the choice, I’d go for discs every single time despite having had the odd warped disc. Both systems work, but I’ve always found the idea of braking at the expense of wearing down your rim(!) an inherently poor and wasteful design choice for any non-racer out there. Just my 0.02c, though.
Rims last for years and years unless you are riding them regularly in cruddy conditions - are you in Finland? If so then discs are definitely good for the winter but surely you don’t need them on the road in summer? I certainly didn’t when I was there..
Toeing in fixed it! Don't worry if at first it doesn't seem to work, halfway into my following ride it all setteled and the noise stopped. What a relief, especially on these quiet early morning rides...!
For disc brake pads, put a drop or 2 of Fairy liquid on pads rub the pads together under warm water. Keep repeating until water runs clear or you can see the gold specks in the pad surface again. Credit to High Carb Rider
@RollinRat dish soap 😄
Another careful, considered and practical instruction vid from Jon. Thanks and Happy New Year.
I've drastically reduced brake squeal since I removed that puppy's face from the caliper. Great advice, Jon!
How do I get rid of a screamer? I don't call her back, they usually get the hint.
For toe in, i just attach a zip tie to the back end of the pad.
Don't snug it to tight, cause you can reuse it next time.
Better than carboard cause now you can see everything better.
I also found the ultegra metal pads to squeal horrible in wet conditions. the l02a resin ones are much quieter. also, those resin pads seem to brake much more even in wet conditions, the metal onces sometimes seem to not really bite when the discs are wet, like rim brakes.
Same here. Yesterday it was raining and people could hear me braking from 1km. I have ultegra groupset, disc.
@@indysbike3014 same here, i have ultegra disc and riding in the rain was screeching like mad
@@museves Do you know how to fix that?
This is video I have been waiting for. I have recently gone to disk brakes so this is a massive help.
Rubber brakes pads can dry out, with use or no use, and become as hard as a formica counter top. Cleaning, filing, sanding won't fix it. Replace the pads with fresh 'soft' rubbery pads and avoid prayer stops.
In my case, the disc pads had glazed over.
1. Pop them out
2. Rough them up a bit with some sandpaper (perpendicular to the rotation).
3. Re-center the pads (loosen the calliper bolts, hold down the brake lever, tighten the bolts).
4. Bed the brakes in like they are new (see your manufacturer recommendation for this).
Not only did the squeal go away, but the brakes more than doubled in their effectiveness (half the stopping distance at speed). I didn’t realise how badly glazed they’d become.
I find wrapping a stout rubber band around the back third of the brake pad works better for setting toe-in than a piece of cardboard (etc.). While clamping down on the brake levers, the rubber band provides a lot of friction, reducing the chances that the brake pad will rotate slightly out of position when tightening the retaining allen bolt. Does anyone have a recommendation for a brand of brake pads that is less prone to squealing? That would be a great piece of information to add to this video!
msteed68 Thanks! I've considered getting Kool Stops before. I have a pair of Shimano pads on my bike now. They can be a bit temperamental unless everything is perfectly set-up and clean.
Cheap n cheerful, Clarks elite triple compound are worth trying.
happy new year gcn! Love from philippines
Manigong bagong taon..
I wouldn't use isopropyl alcohol for rim brake pads and rims because it may damage structural integrity of rubber.
All I wanna say!!!!! Is happy New Year!!! Guys!!! 🇵🇭🇵🇭🇵🇭
Manigong bagong taon..
My city bike have a drum brake, and every morning it squeak very loud. I think that some moisture have accumulated over night, but it really is hard to clean the inside of a drum brake.
So i just ride the bike while holding on the brake until it becomes quiet..
Better use a file instead of sanding paper. The abrasive material may get stuck in your brake pad. I often use either a file or a strong wire brush.
Or if the pads are old, replace them even if they are not worn out.
@@minuteman4199 yes but this is the less ecological decision. You need energy and resources to produce them so be so respectfull and use them till the end if possible as long as they dont present any risk for your own.
@@mathieub3953 you're right, but brake pads for the disc brakes on my commuter costs like 5€, so going through the whole process of cleaning, sanding and cleaning them once more before installing them is almost never worth the effort and time spent.
Duct tape is the best for silence. Now for my bike I keep the disc and pads clean
What do you mean?
Duct tape tends to shut them up for a bit. Might help with the moustache, too.
@@C345OFR duct tape and mustache? I can already hear a loud scream..
My bikes never came with toe in and braking in fine.
Where can I get a hoodie like that? 👀
Usu a blowtorch And gently heat pads, this will burn off any oil or brake fluid. Then gently sand pads with sandpaper on a flat surface and blow off any dust that remains. Replace all components and you’re good to go. Clean rotors with isopropyl alcohol and I guarantee this works every time.
Oh man all details in description! Thanks
I get noise in the rear when i brake but only when i ride very very slow. Bike is 4 weeks old only. What can it be?
Thank you
my front rim brakes sound like a purge siren on helium
So for the rear rim brakes is it the same toe-in rule again, the area towards the front of the wheel must touch first?
Sometimes squeaky brake can be good. Usually when some clown walks in to road without looking to make sure there is nothing coming. Then the screech of the brakes makes them jump. Either on to the path or in front of the lorry coming the other way. If they have any sense then they jump on the path. If they don't, Then there will be one upset lorry driver.
My front brake on my cyclocross bike also screams and it's fun to use it as a horn
Lisa Rogers I generally yell,” get the fuck out of the road u muppet!!!” 😂😂😈
Sometimes i even purposely lock up my rear wheel to sound that it was an emergency brake that i almost hit them..
My disc brakes are as quiet as can be in dry conditions but the moment they get wet they turn into a pair of banshees. I'm using sintered pads on both front/rear. Is that pretty normal for discs?
i've got 1965 drum brakes on my classic gazelle city bike and when i brake it sounds like a nuclear explosion
I've found that disc brakes are very sensitive to the caliper being lined up correctly. Though they still scream a little in the wet which sets of the incident detect on my Garmin which is exceedingly annoying!
This only applies to disk brakes. You will need a blow torch and new pads. With the wheel off the bike and the pads changed, spray the disk with degreaser, take a bit of kitchen towel and wipe off any muck. Then take the blow torch, or lightly heat the disk, you will see the the remaining fluid evaporate. Heat both sides of the disk and make sure to not heat the disk so much that it changes colour.
Ah ok yea I completely roasted my disks and that explains why they were broken I got bleed fluid on them and tried to boil the mineral oil off it
@Robert Trageser It's what we do. Different people do it different ways.
@Robert Trageser I help out in a local shop. we use a blow torch lightly to evaporate the brake cleaner (which is effectively just degreaser) not to the point where they are so hot that they could break or deform. Not arguing about this as there isn't much point.
I still have the problem of brake squeal, I already got a new pair of pads (carbon specific from mavic) and toed them in.
I do ride mavic cosmic rims and they appear a bit glossy, did I overheat them?
Both front and rear are bloody noisy.
Please give me some tips, should I use other pads or is mavic known for this?
Rims are 6 months old.
None of this worked when I changed to v brakes on my old Cindercone ....went back to Canti on the front.
a hack I'd like to mention is use a car pump for bike tyres there particularly good with Schrader value they pump up tyres super quick and super hard to a good psi the caveat can be bulky to carry just wanted to suggest that Idea
great videos love them thanks adam
Isnt it better to put the sandpaper in a horizontal surface and rub the pads against it?
It doesn't really matter as long as the glaze is removed and the surface is decently even
I got a new bike and my rear brake squeals so loud its embarrassing and people say over time the noise will go is that true?
Please kill the music, it makes hearing the words properly
I've always wondered why does toeing in eliminate the screeching?
The grab on the front then pulls the rest of the brake pad in at the back, so you get pretty good contact, but without the squeal. I think the squeal is caused by initial contact setting up vibration without grab to dampen it. It's a bit like getting the rim of a wine glass to sing. With firmer pressure the wine glass doesn't sing, and with a flat contact on bike rims there is equally a series of high frequency vibrations that can be cured with the firm grab of the front of the pad.
squeaky brakes is bad and made me remind in before hand how it will be when I come home after a long ride. :(
The bottom tq wrench facing a different direction at the end of the video is making me SOOO MAD!
Surely the "toe in" part of this video is negated by the tightening of the bolt holding the shoe to the caliper? It's not as though the shoe itself is slightly angled to allow "toe in" so I can't see how the business card thing works.
The brake shoes sit on a spherical washer on most quality brakes, and will stay angled wherever you tighten them. Business card trick does work.
@@ryanlorence512 Fair enough that makes sense.
John Mac - If you have older brakes without the spherical washers that help you adjust toe-in, you can buy brake shoes and holders with those adjusting washers or find some at Rene Herse Cycles or Grand Bois.
bend the calipers with big plyers
my fvcking rim brakes sounds like a truck horn thanks for this I fixed it
The best way to get rid of the squealing disc brake disease is just to go back to rim brake!! Never had this problem with rims; get it every ride with discs despite cleaning rotors and pads everyday
good advice, I'm sticking to my V brakes.
Hello body, I have a concern regarding my carbon rims. I recently get the mavic pro sl carbon. The thing is that at the beginning of my ride when I brake it has a normal sound nevertheless if I take a long way down using the brakes suddenly start a terrible squeal sound. I already cleaned rims and pads even I changed the pads but the squeal is still present. Does it normal for carbon rims ? There are any brand pads that will eliminate this sound? Thanks in advance!
I just put grease on the surface
Okay so disks and pads very easy to clean. Step one wipe step two blowtorch the disk and pads lightly to remove any thing left step 3 reinstall and boom brand new granny brakes.
You can end up wrapping your rotor there..
@@cliffordromina3527 only if you're a twit and hold the tourch in one place at a time lol.
I milled off the pads 1 mm, but they still squeal, ... so, what is next solution ???
If you have a disc brake set up it could be any number of things causing the squeal - make sure your rotors and pads are clean and free of any contaminants, the pads are correctly bedded in, and that both pistons are moving together rather than unevenly. If all of those things are fine then you'll need to do some more investigating, it's possible the calliper could be out of alignment with the disc, or the disc is slightly warped.
I have tryed 6 diferent manufacturers of the pads, i have cleaned the discs and pads, than i have greased the discs, than cleaned it all , changing the pads, etc, ets, trying even to lubricate the pads with oil, ...greased the guides, ... i even bored the pads, to make holes into which i installed the graphite sticks , ... and, No result at all . I tested the main bearings - no movement . I made a new springs that are pushing the pads aside, ... than i glued the pads to the pistons , ... and, again : no and no result !!! ! !!! I will try with the neodymium magnets this week , if i will manage to assemble it all , ... them all . Or do you have any new idea in the between time ? Thanks. Pwy.
I have cleaned the pads and discs, i have changed 6 diferent manufacturers of the pads, bought new rotors, have lubricated the discs , i have gresed the discs, than cleaned it all again, ... etc, ... i have even drilled the holes into pads, and installed the graphite sticks into it, ... but - no effect . I even glued the pads to the pistons, as it worked a few years ago, but now - Not anymore - No result . I checked the main bearings, - perfect as new - with no walking/play. I will try the neodymmium magnets this week, if i will be able to assemble it , because they are very strong . In the mean time, do you have any new idea about the problem ? Thank you. Pwy.
Does disc brake grease for cars do anything for bike disc brakes?
How do I brake properly? I just squeeze the lever.
+offshorebear I was thinking the exact same thing, LOL
@Robert Trageser My driveway has a 18" drop, and then its 300 miles to the next change in elevation for me, lol. Flat beach area. I don't know anything about bike brake design, but I am sure they have different design goals than car brakes which I know more about.
In cars, the grease is used to dampen out the resonant frequencies caused by impurities and manufacturing defects. I wonder if it would do the same thing on a bike caliper, if it could be retrofitted into the design or a new, "silent" piece of kit.
@Robert Trageser In the US the ubiquitous product for cars is "CRC Disc Brake Quiet". Its an thick acrylic polymer fluid that kind of feels like hard rubber gasket after a while. Nothing like copper anti-seize. You coat the entire rear of the pad with it before installation.
@Robert Trageser All good stuff Robert, this part of youtube doesn't seem to attract many trolls. As far as design goals for car vs bike brakes, yes they all serve to convert kinetic energy into heat, however I suspect a car brake system can be quite a bit heavier due to the energy available, with more thermal mass in the rotors and pads than a bicycle. There is also more space to fit additional parts, like noise canceling layers of rubber material. The Brake Quite stuff is there to absorb the energy that was made from glazing and contamination; it is not required for perfectly conditioned brakes. Car brakes and bike brakes have the same challenges, but they are designed differently for good reasons.
Who remembers Weinmann brakes ? 🤣
okantichrist came here looking for a way to stop my weinmann brakes squealing.
I run disc brakes on my winter steed and have tried all of the methods mentioned without success, i even went as far as replacing the pads and rotors this year but they still squeal when coming to a complete stop, the front one locked on the other day too. I suspect it could be something to do with the pistons, but having already spent a small fortune i am loath to replace these unless it will definitely resolve the issue, have you any further hints/tips/guidance on this?
How did you get the background tool to move at 5:30 in?
Very good point. I guess you and me need to get better things to do, than wondering about this sort of stuff though !
I had a nasty case of backpacker vs rim, I vowed never to stay in a hostel again.
I find that a couple of sprays of WD40 stops the squeal immediately.
Don't joke about it at all. There really are people who will do this.
I'm a little sad you got there before I did.
Be careful, it can stop the squeal but it can also stop it from braking at all..
I like how u specified isopropyl alcohol rather than say whiskey or vodka 😂😂
Or mineral water (beer)..
I'm waiting for someone to comment on how to get rid of a screamer. They give her the taxi fare home. :-)
Lisa Rogers Lisa, You dirty dog, You! Classic joke and always a goodie! Lol
Someone in the comments section suggested duct tape..
Don’t use discs
shhh, they are all brainwashed
Good old WD-40 works great for screaming breakes
facepalm.
The WD-40 trick is satire, folks... ;-)
This works 9/10 times czcams.com/video/08ePb4_C0JA/video.html
get earplugs, problem solved
1st comment I think
Or maybe 2nd
It's first for sure
These Zipp wheels again... Sorry but these are sky high above my budget.
I got tired of this so I went brakeless.