Why bike mechanics love reliable alu wheels like these
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- čas přidán 7. 04. 2024
- To choose a set of solid alu wheels you must look beyond weight, price and headline reviews. Consider the wear and tear that will happen and how you will maintain your investment. Can you easily search for and buy spare parts? Will you still be able to find those parts in a decade? With the new laws regarding right to repair, many european brands are now having to hold stock of spares. This is not true of many brands that do not publish spare parts documents or make their parts available. Upgrading your stock wheels to something a lot more reliable is often the first upgrade most cyclists will make. I hope this video helps you choose wisely.
In this video we show you examples from:
Hunt, 9velo, Zipp, Fulcrum, Microtech, DT Swiss, Mavic and Pacenti / Bitex.
The wheels we offer as a benchmark are the DT Swiss GR1600 2024 edition. They have the full DT Swiss 350 hubs, Aero Comp Spokes, Prolock Nipples and wide, hooked rims - Sport
Finally, a video that talks about actual real world experience! What a relief to find someone prioritising the practical aspects of a bike wheel and understanding that regular consumers don't have piles of free kit, we just want something that works sensibly and isn't a pile of scrap at the first hint of a bearing failure. Legends!
But what are the tolerances on those bearings? Is the spoke tension within 5% of spec, out of the box? And most importantly, how do we know what a product is really like unless the manufacturer sent it to us for free to review?
The angry consumer that was sold a bike with cheap components. Complain to your LBS for having sold you a bike with crappy components or better still to the manufacturer that integrated production of Chinese wheels, stems and handlebars, when in the past they used to buy wheels from Mavic, Easton, Ritchey and other brands.
remember the good old days when the go to was Mavic Open Pro rims with 105 or Ultegra hubs and Sapin race spokes
And proper cup and cone bearings, none of this press fit bearing nonsense!
Still available hand made from sjs cycles 🙂
@@paulmosely1116Cup and Cone bearings are high maintenance. Cartridge bearings last a lot longer, require zero maintenance and don’t wreck your hub when they do wear out. 10 mins replaces them when they do go.
i just bought one exactly as you said, mavic pro,with 105 hub and 11-34 rear sprockets for my road b,to replace my basic wheel,cos it was damaged😀🤘
Rebuilt a rear wheel 2 years ago putting another mavic pro on a bullseye hub with new Sapim spokes. Prior wheel had 80,000+ miles. Still have 2 fresh rims in the box, so I should be good for a while.
I have a 300lb customer. I built a set of Tiagra hubs, 36 hole Sun CR18 rims and DT 2.0 spokes. $300 and 15,000 miles no issues
Vision Team 35, best value of all.
DT Swiss or die. Their customer service is legend.
Parts availability...
My DT alu wheels developed slack in them after two years. Bearings very hard to replace.
@@ketle369
@@ketle369 2 years? My front C 1800 is not 100% true anymore after only a few rides on trails... It's not that bad, but I'm
@@DR_1_1 Its on a roadbike. I dont jump that much on the road bike ;) Im above 100 kg!!
Thanks for putting this out in the open!
So often, serviceability does not get the attention it deserves.
Our pleasure!
I’m a wheel builder. DT 350 is my go-to hub. Parts are easy to find, but you’re going to need to ride lots of miles before you need any.
Besides dt swiss what's you next 2 line ups for hubs?
@bonbonflippers4298 There really aren't many options around that price point. They all get a failing grade once you look at service options. Throw a steel freehub on a 350 and that thing will last many years.
@@bonbonflippers4298 I've had pretty good experience with spank hubs. Mine's aleady at 4th year of wet riding, still in bangin condition. Changed the bearings twice. Super simple and quick to service. Good engagement at 102t
@@laurynasjagelo5075 I didn't know spank makes hubs
@@bonbonflippers4298bitex, hope, H-works. All very good options with great reliability and serviceability.
Great insights, thanks for sharing. Wheelsmith in Scotland hand build great wheels starting at around £400, so well worth a look. I've got Zipp style 45mm carbon rims laced to Hope hubs with sapim spokes and robust and weather-resilient brass nipples, and they've been awesome and faultless for many years (however, they weren't £400, although they were a lot less than a pair of Zipps, but much better built and with decent hubs!).
Thanks for shedding some honest light on Winspace wheels. Keep up the honest work. Appreciate it.
Just purchased a rear DT Swiss 1800 Spline with rim brakes (fitted with Tannus solid tyres) for my eBike so I am really delighted to know this was a wise move given the ability to easily maintain the wheel going forward.
Would love to see more variants on this topic, to this relatable (value vs serviceability) insight and chuck in extra parameters (lightweight vs Value / durability). Keep up the good work, looking trim and healthy Paul.
Fantastic video! Perfectly done. Thanks from the US!.
I’ve got a wheelset that you have featured in this piece, which came as stock with a bike I recently bought. 6 months in, I’ve already spent £90 fixing it (LBS rolled their eyes when I took the wheels in). Bearings in front hub and free hub shot. I also bought a set of ffwd wheels (they are lovely to ride) after another of your videos, which also give me the knowledge to find a decent pair of alu 4 season wheels (custom made, DT Swiss). Not as cheap up front but hopefully will last and are easy to fix and I can fix at home. Thanks for sharing your knowledge, it’s refreshing to see content about longevity rather than weight, wind tunnel stats, etc.
Absolutely spot on and practical. Thank you.
You're very welcome
DCR 24 25 rim, with DCR (Bitex) centrelock hubs and Sapim CXray spokes on my road bikes. One set is 7 years old and still going strong. Only ever taken the free hub off to clean and re grease the pawls. I'm pretty certain spares for the hubs are easily available. I think the price currently is similar at around 500 quid.
Bought the previous version when they were just called "DT Swiss GR1600" to build up my Mason gravel bike. They appear to have almost identical spec. Can't fault them, super satisfied, highly recommended. 👌
Great teaching! Happy D T Swiss 350/500 wheel owner
Have a few hunt wheelsets and 4 season and race aero never had an issue. There excellent
So glad because I just bought a set of DT Swiss GR1600s for my gravel bike 🎉
Great choice 👍
I was buying carbon aero wheels. On DT Swiss side, there were already Ratchet EXP hubs from €1400 mark (ARC 1400).
Ended up buying Roval Rapide CL2s. Wheels themselves are €1600-1800 (got them at 1300), but come with 350 hub which seems so much more practical.
Ratchet EXP had some launch problems, hubs would last for 500km or something crazy like that.
@@happykanye DT 350 hubs are *excellent*
Been training and racing on them for years - tough XC and Gravel environment, too.
I have Hed Ardennes and I'm happy with them. I always lusted after DT.
Excellent and informative video. Thank you.
I got a set of DT Swiss by 'accident' a few years back (just a lucky eBay purchase) - they really are phenomenal wheels.
great advice, thank you
The base-level Campag Khamshin (and Fulcrum variant) are very, very durable. They can be had in rim brake version often for $250 on second hand web sites. They weigh about 1700g, which is about what a road disk setup weighs, with the rotors.
Have tried to service a Tune hubs from Germany I like them I find it easy to maintain and easy to clean.
Absolutely agree. This is the same for the home mechanic. Have the previous model of the GR1600s and it's a breeze riding and maintaining them. Spokes, nipples, tools, spare parts ... everything transparent, well documented and somewhere in stock.
Excellent information
Thanks so much
Me, over here rolling on old campy or shimano hubs, with mavic mtb rims or mavic ma40's...... I do like the dt swiss wheels and they would be my go to for cartridge bearing wheels. I am happy I don't live in the UK/rainforest where I would have to rebuild my wheels super frequently. Also with old cup and cone bits as long as the cup is fine you can get replacement axles, and cones from easy to find websites and of course ball bearings as well.
mostly out of fashion so very hard to get hold of. But fully agree a well put together set of alloy hoops feels as good if not better than carbon hoop.
Dt Swiss RR511 built on Hope RS 4 three years ago for £280 at wheelcraft just outside Glasgow, you can buy rims and hubs separate to whatever you want and don’t get a daft spoke count to save weight, it is the uk and they need to be strong.
Love the video.
It shows exactly why I buy dt Swiss.
I always thought this would only apply for people like me that service everything themselves. Interesting to see that the same thing translates to bike shops.
I use DT swiss rims sapim spokes and nipples when rebuilding broken wheels (mtb) currently. Their hubs (along with hope) are a pleasure to work on when servicing (though there's a premium for their tools for the job).
I think when I come to upgrade/replace my OEM bontrager (don't laugh 😮) wheels on my road bike i will be looking for dt swiss.
Keep the videos coming with a few more close up shots next time 😊
Agree with upgrade budget wheels needs to be reliable for long term in all conditions and easy to repair with common parts. Leave the special parts for the expensive high end wheels. Aviod hunt for the the reason you mentioned. Mavic is just throw away wheels when small parts goes bad now.
I do agree, my workhorse wheels are Custom built DT swiss wheels with 350 hubs. I do have Chinese carbon wheels for race day. I think this is the best value option with all the benefits of replacement parts for the high use wheels and reduced price to performance ratio with the Chinese wheels.
My Pinarello Prince 2015 (remarketed DOGMA 65.1) came with FULCRUM wheels which kept snapping spokes , replaced them with the cheapest MAVIC aluminium wheels available £199 (discounted) and I’ve NEVER had any problems with them since I bought them about 6 years ago
A great video and insightful, I appreciate that handbuilt wheels were out of the remit but for £500 you can get a great pair of alloy wheels and if there are issues just go back to the builder. I only have rim brake bikes it would be nice to see a similar video on rim brake wheels. 😊
I can recommend DT Swiss PR 1600 or GR 1600 with rachet 350. With theses wheens, I was hit twice in the rear wheel by heavy cars, just 3mm to be fixed in the workshop for 10 Sterlings. None of the other road rims would survive it!
You got hit twice? You're lucky to not seriously hurt or writing off you6 bke6
Great wheels summary of what matters to 99% of riders, construction, reliability and access to spares. Looking trim my man ! Great job on transforming over the winter…… hope you’re having a blast on the bike(s) 😁👍
oh, I am Kevin.
I love my Fulcrum Racing Zero 2WF wheels...
In the 500 pounds range i like to get a wheelset built. I recently used some ryde andra 40 rims with a bitex heavy duty rear hub and hopes pro 5 front. laced with dt alpine tiple butted spokes. the build totalled 550 including wheel building by my local called condor cycles. A lighter and slightly more expensive option is using Halo rims along with fewer spoke count and perhaps hope hubs front and back. if you shop about you will find deals on things. that and a handbuilt wheel is almost always better than machine built.
So glad I went with DT Swiss HG 1800’s as I thought the slight extra was worth the ease of parts availability.
Yes. You will be glad in a few years time.
Flat spokes on straight pull hubs also prevent the spokes from twisting around and loosening that way
Quite useful! It can be difficult to discern what truly works for the rider, out on the road, with regards to bicycle wheels. The materials and mechanics get buried under the marketing. Having played this video in the background whilst doing other things, it will be replayed forthwith. Thank you for the insight; warmest regards from Joe in Atlanta, Georgia, USA
Glad it was helpful!
speaking of weight - looking good. I see you're putting in the work. keep at it 👌
Thanks, will do!
When bike wheels had angular contact, cup-and-cone hubs, spare parts were a non-issue. With a modicum of care, one needed only to replace the actual steel balls about every 5K miles or so, regrease, adjust the preload, and ride another 5K miles. The balls are easy to get and cheap. Bonus: angular contact bearings do a good job of handling vertical and lateral loads.
But with cup and cone bearing youre sh*** outta luck too if your cones are damaged and there arent replacements available. Like its the case with most 90s/early 2000s Shimano Hubs nowadays.
A set of cartridge bearings is about £10 and require zero maintenance. They also generally last a lot more than 5k. You also have the benefit of not wearing out you wheel hub and aging to service them every month.
@@Ryan.T89 My estimate of 5K miles is very conservative. As in for someone who has spare time, likes tinkering, and appreciates a bike that's running as well as it can. Someone like me.
The reality is a set of cup-and-cone hubs could easily go three or four times that before being serviced and show no measurable wear. Many go the lifetime of the bike without ever becoming noticeably rough.
The four dozen or so G25 ball bearings required cost ~$.03-.05 each, or a total of ~$1.50-2.40, and that's for both wheels. The required tools? A small flat head screwdriver to coax off the dust caps, a $5 set of cone wrenches, and about four tablespoons of marine grease. No pullers. No presses. No violent whacking.
@@speedy1490 That's not my experience. I've rebuilt a dozen or so Shimano hubs of that era, and some much older. I have yet to find one so badly worn that I could not resurrect it. I've seen one set that was being written off by its owner until I polished the races and showed him there was only very minor pitting. We rebuilt them, and they came out great. They will need more frequent servicing than usual going forward, but they were not a lost cause.
For rim brake oldies try the DT Swiss R460 rim, Miche Primato hubs, Sapim Race black spokes, brass nipples. Just built a pair for £240. Hub spares - springs, pawls, ratchet ring etc all available. Great everyday wheelset.
Lovely video! After a couple of different wheelsets on my winterbike (Bontrager no-name stuff it came with, Shimano GRX, Fulcrum ) I finally switched to a DT Swiss set and it has been great.
The Bontrager set was crap with a Formula RX hub that was hard to service. The GRX wheelset was servicable but cup-cone on a winterbike wasn't the best choice as it needed a lot of service and I had to replace the axle after a year of riding. The fulcrum-set wasn't suitable for gravel-stuff and also needed a lot of service, but parts weren't a real problem, but rebuilding the hubs every month wasn't what I wanted to do.
The DT Swiss G1800 set I've got now has been great with no problems, sounds or other stuff in the approx. 2000kms I did on them. They where cheap and with DT Swiss switching the 370 hubs to their ratchet-system I expect that service will be a blast when it does need it.
Wow, interesting, I'm hesitating between the GRX and C 1800 (~G 1800) for my rear wheel...
Both have the exact same specs - on paper - and same price, too.
I already bought a front C 1800 but I'm not really impressed, nothing to complain either, I suppose my Cube/Newmen wheels were already good (stock on my < 1500 € bike), I just can't feel any difference, although the DT might be slightly lighter.
Maybe I'm good with a 2nd front wheel only, I can switch between a slick and CX tyre when needed, and keep the same strong slick rear tyre all the time...
@@DR_1_1 I can't really complain about my GRX wheelset (570 set), they run great as long as you service them which is cheap when you know how to do it. A clean and new grease is often good enough. The 'problem' is that when the bearings go bad an axle replacement is near because of the cup-cone setup, with regular bearings you just replace the bearings and are good to go.
So in my experience if you take care of them they are great and maintenance is cheap. But if you - like me - ride in bad conditions and don't clean them out every 2000kms or so... well... look for something else ;-)
Great video and insights! I tend to inform customers that they mainly buy a frameset and groupset when buying a low or mid-range bike. Swapping the tyres and wheels to something like you mention here is pretty much needed for reliable cycling, sadly…
I think we agree, I was looking for something that has approximately:
- DT350 (check)
- Aero Comp spokes (I actually have mostly Aerolite, Aero Comp is only on the drivetrain side I believe, I think that only saves like 50g total for 24 spokes per wheel, silly)
- External nipples (I actually have internal alu ones from I believe Sapim, not sure about alu, seems everyone is doing it but doesn't seem worth the weight tradeoff)
But in a 40-55mm carbon rim (which I have 45mm deep, and 24mm internal wide and nice).
I had initially looked at Hunt and Scribe but of course retracted that from consideration and apologized to the bike shop for ever considering that :D
DT Swiss alu wheels are legendary.
During COVID-19 GR1600 wheels weren't in stock, so I build myself a set of equivalent wheels using DT swiss 350 hubs, revolution spokes, 14mm brass nipples and GR531 rims.
I used the DT swiss calculator and averaged the spoke length for front and back. The spoke threads stick out about 3-5mm out of the nipples, so adjustment can be tricky, but the wheels have performed admirably.
They've survived Dutch MTB trails, the cobbles climbs of Flanders and the cobbles of la trouée d'Arenberg and Carrefour de l'Arbre and stayed true enough, so I can definitely vouch for GR1600 wheels. They aren't the lightest or most aerodynamic, but they get the job done and are bomb proof.
Nice. And well done.
i've had excellent luck with midrange shimano hubs. not many things to replace other than the bearings. a bit high maintenance but the reward is the same hub for 10 years instead of hunting down a new component.
I had Fulcrum Racing 7 on my first bike, those were the stock wheels (well in OEM build with different color labels) and also the replacements ones after I crashed. These things used 4 different types of spokes, I think that was madness. Overengineered
Very nice video, informative thanks for the loads of information, however I wish to have guidance for my wheels, MTB chinese carbon rims, brass chinese nipples, Chinese copy aluminium dt swiss hubs steel rachet and springs. Cx ray spokes ( sprints for the cassette side ). So shall I replace steel rachet with a brass one ? And would you recommend fabrication of a steel axle for the hubs, thank you
I live in a custom wheel household. Sapim spokes, nipples and whatever I like for the hub and rim.
Lots of great information. reynolds used to list all the parts.
Whatever the wheels I usually run DT hubs and I'm a very happy camper, 2 months on the 9velo mt30 for my trail bike. Knocking on wood... 🍀
Ive a set of Borg 22 disc wheels. £450. Handmade in Suffolk, buttery smooth.
Upgraded to the pr1600 dt swiss wheels, 300 quid on merlin, from the awful wtb wheels that came in my topstone. Great wheel so far, cant knock it for the price! Tho the white hubs was certainly a choice...
just bought a set of dt swiss rr481 for 640 euro and replaced my old 533d with them. to me they are worth every cent 😁the bike now feels like it's flying (changed the rings in the 350hub with some 54teeth rings because i just love the sound - as weird as that may sound)
hunt 4 seasons have not lasted well for me on mainly road riding. rear wheel needed a new rim after all the eyelets cracked despite being well within weight limit. maybe a build tension issue. The rear hub eats through bearings at an alarming rate with plenty of under rotation makrs on the axle. Missalignment in the bearing housings? Got a new set of ffwd royt 44 with DT240, lovely wheels but not exactly comparable!
I believe you've mentioned getting some hand made wheels from a local man in a shed (ryanbuildswheels, scrub, etc) using simple bitex hubs, known spokes, etc.
Would you still recommend this as a valid upgrade path?
I got dt swiss 370 hubs (new ratchet ones) upgraded to 36t and dt spokes 28hole and dt g540 rims seam very strong which i wanted im like 17 stone and hunt was to weak . Also got same rims but with Shimano hubs for gravel stuff . Both not that light but will work ages
Running DT Swiss XR391 with 240 hubs. Great wheels which accept a wide range of tires. On my gravel bike running Boyd CCC 700C alloy wheels with enduro hubs. Price wise they are less than the DT Swiss. Both wheelsets are great. Avoided carbon hookless as I don't know much about them.
Hi Paul. It looks like you lost some weight! Well done! I am trying to do the same. I am bit worried about your arguments about the carbon + aluminium setup. I just received a new bike yesterday and it came with DT GRC1600 which is the same wheel as GRC 1400 but with 350 hub rather than 240. As far as I know that wheel is also using aluminium nipples and the rim is carbon. I was hoping to use the wheels throughout the winter as well. Do you think it is a bad idea and it worth getting a winter wheel setup which would cost dearly and would not be as fast as the carbon wheels? Is corrosion always happen in those aluminium nipples + carbon rims (unavoidable?) or is it frequent occurrence if the bike is not washed regularly?
I have two wheelsets for my roadbike the FFWD Ryot with DT swiss 240 hubs, and the DT swiss E1800 alu wheels, for when there is a problem with the FFWD's or I want to run wider/more grippier tyres. I have all the spare parts at home. Because when I get home from fixing other peoples bikes I do not want to spend too much time fixing my own wheels/bike .
Cycle clinic wheels. Owner Malcolm has rims and hubs at various price points and great advice. Also Wheelsmith in Scotland.
Hes a bad tempered so and so (online with Campy bashers) and a bloody good, helpful chap that builds a very strong wheel and stands behind it.
I've no experience with GR 1600 wheels, but the rims that are used in rim brake version of P 1800 and PR 1600 tend to crack around spoke holes after less than 1 year of use and way below the weight limit ( commuting
around 700 km a month ) My answer to this is Scribe 365, j-bent sapim d-light spokes, brass nipples, ISO size bearings (they could be better quality), under 1600g disc or rim brake and around 300 yoyo's
The Fulcrum Quattro and Racing 3 (Campagnolo Zonda and Scirocco) are at that price point and are extremely durable and the hubs are outstanding and super easy to service. They use standard ball bearings but in 25+ years I’ve had no failures. I did break one proprietary spoke on a Bora1 but that’s a different price point. It was easy to find.
I may be a little old school but I just buy shimano xt hubs with DT Swiss spokes, brass nipples and Spanx rims, relatively cheap, reliable and bullet proof. I do build them myself without any special tools which makes a big difference to the cost of a wheel.
Perfect. I hope they improve the XT hub soon. That silent mucrospline version has not done well.
I ordered a pair of these hunt 4 seasons things in their last sale. Opened the box and sadly various bits of the wheel appeared to fall off in the box in transit. Sent the bu88ers back.
Ordering a set of wheels from Ryanbuildswheels.
Ryanbuildswheels wheel builds are superb - best wheels I ever used. He build me a DTSwiss rims bomber and they are indestructible and so well built. Already did a maintenance couple times - super easy to service as well.
I sense Mr Mapdec has now just itched a troubling big itch in telling how it actually is. Nice one dude🤟
lol. Yes. Getting kinda sick of trying to fix these disposable wheels touted on CZcams.
DT Swiss 350 is my hub if choice for value. I don't care about high engagement...but you can even upgrade that if you want.
"Another one of those" looked to me to be a freehub assembly from Novatec? I took one of these with a rough bearing inside (that appeared to be non-replaceable) into a LBS who like you, just shrugged. 10 minutes online was all it took to find one that looked just like it. It's still spinning happily in the wheel today.
What do you think of Shimano wheels with cup and cone bearings? I bought two new and found the bearings adjusted way over-tight. Are normal sealed bearings better?
If I had cash to spend on high-end mountain bike wheels, I'd be going with Mavic's and their Maxtal alloy🤘🤘
Great video. Back in 2019 I managed to get a pair of wheels built by a local builder for a shade over £550: H PLUS SON Hydra rims, Sapim CX Rays, brass nipples and Hope RS4 hubs. Would love to know how these would compare to the benchmark and others as they've served me very well.
They would compare well. You did good.
15:05
another problem with using a big breaker bar like that is that u can damage the wheel. Trying to turn that thing puts rotational force on the hub which increases spoke tension and can crack the rim (i know because i made the same mistake once)
Ouch.
The zipp freehub pawls and springs are not even listed in the spare parts catalogue so good luck getting some more.
Zipp is a SRAM company. Is SRAM reknowned for their spare parts service?? ( Hint: They leave that service to third party companies, like UK based Ratio.. ) Rgr
I just bought a replacement for my HED Belgium rim - $185! For an aluminium rim!!!
I did buy it because it matched my front but f&$k me that was a hard decision to make.
I just picked up a pair of light bicycle rims for only another $100. The world has gone crazy. Built them up on CK hubs and Sapim CX ray spokes and brass nips - should last me for 10 years :)
Sad. As the world has gone carbon mad, the production volumes on good alu has dropped. Alu works best at high production as it’s an extrusion method. The main cost is machine set up.
In the last few years, carbon wheelsets have become dominant, and people have only talked about how the new fat and tall rim could save watts and merely mentioned the hubs. But 20-30 years ago, when custom-built wheels were still the mainstream, people always focused on the hub first. The hubs of Shamano's Dura-Ace, Campy's Record, and Chris King were always eye-catchers. All these hubs are robust, maintainable, and can last many years. A good pair of hubs is way more expensive than the rims and other small parts, comparing all the parts in a wheelset to each other. But the newbies today always have no idea how vital the hubs are for a long-lasting wheelset.
Well said.
Agree! I'm currently rebuilding some dura ace 7850 hubs (10 speed,.rim brake) with new rims right now as I carefully maintained the cup and cone hubs over the years. Funnily enough (despite what the presenter says) I'm specifically using Pillar spokes and nipples because they are so easy to order from Ali Express here in Australia.
Gotta love my King hubs with Mavic CXP rims.
I´ve built my go to wheels now for my CX bike on Campagnolo Record hubs. What am I doing wrong?? Rgr
@@richardggeorge I have a pair of 7800, still running smoothly.
Just bought a set brand new set of hunt 4 seasons for £265, they seem pretty well made to me only time will tell how long they last tho
I bought DTSwiss G1800 in 2021 for 300 usd including import tax. Used it on my Émonda ALR. Did 11000kms on them and just replaced the nipples with brass ones. I feel it’s easier to live with DT Swiss wheels
Just bought a replacement rear wheel from the only pro shop in Delaware. I asked for bullet proof training set up. They recommended DT 350 hub, with 32 hole Velocity rims for $600. Just picked it up yesterday. Sounds close to the £500. My last set of wheels lasted 10 years +, Mavic Elites, until I ran into a deep pothole bent my frame and damaged the wheels. Fixed the frame and now replacing the wheels.
They will be perfect. 👌
Your looking good bro
If I had all the $$$$$ in the world every pair of wheels I own would be DT SWISS. I have two inexpensive training sets that roll as fast as any race wheels I own. The race wheels roll as well, are lighter and more aero. To bad they're so expensive!
Very interested in watching this. I already have a view, so I'll see what you think!
Ok, thanks for that, a lot of knowledge and experience conveyed.
Surprised you glossed over Fulcrum. I find among my customers that the Fulcrum R 5 is virtually indestructible. I've never seen one in need of service, never seen one with broken spokes, and they're well below the price point you set.
Second surprise: you say Pillar spokes are hard to get in the UK. Just order some!
Where do you order pillar spokes from?
@@Mapdec Their German distributor is tops, large stock. Oh, wait.. Brexit... Rgr
I've got some Miche Syntesi hubs which are nice and solid. Those Kinlin rims are good too. You might laugh at that.
Had Mavics before - the freehub failed and the price of replacement was more than a new wheel. Hope and DT Swiss have been flawless.
This is a familiar mavic story
I´m using DT Swiss since ever because it´s so easy to service. Even as a hobby mechanic.
You can get spare stuff from china too: ratchet tool, ratchets and good bearings.
Also the entry price for good wheels like G1800, E1800, P1800 and so on is very attractive. You can buy also a lot of wheels second hand, especially for rim breaks.
DT aren´t the lightest but very durable, especially for heavy riders like me.
I also love my Campa Zondas, the conus axle is very interesting and smooth. They are durable too and very light for their price.
They’re not easy to service compared to Shimano.
Pitted cups.... Cartridge hearings are easy to replsce.
Another option(s). Hope hubs, hand built from Hewitt cycles (great wheel builder), using standard spokes for £500 ish or hope 20five factory. Fancy colours and every single part available. Bitex hubs, hand built for around £300, although not sure about Bitex part availability..
I have commented that also on another Video of yours.
For DT Swiss always get their original bearings.
Choose a good rim, Bitex hubs (they make hubs for several "brands" so you may already be on them) or Hope. Sapim stainless spokes and brass nipples. I make some of my own wheels, thats the way I go.
FYI, Microtech hub is made by Powerway, that type of cassette body is the same as PFH-R13. Also, It doesn't cost much to use a R13 hub as part donator for the wheel if you want a spare axle.
Could you build a wheel set with a K.O.M rear hub and what do you think of their spare parts list?
what's your opinion about shimano grx rx570 wheelset? about cup and cone system?
SINGRINGLR! MAVIC! ALEX! good old days!
DT SWISS and FULCRUM are probably THE MOST Logical design and for ease of spares to find. Easy maintainance, and generally a good Price/Quality ratio...
Are Shimano hubs also easy to service & to get parts for?
Any experience with Head aluminum wheels.