Excellent info, nothing worse than finding your favorite saddle then it goes out of production after a few years and you have to start over. It shouldn't be too long before we can make our own at home with a printer.
I bought a Specialized 3d printed saddle, liked it so much I decided to buy the Ryet replica for my second bike. The shape was spot on but the quality of the foam just wasn’t there. The difference to the original was significant and the Ryet padding was a little too soft. It’s ok for the price but they just can’t match the originals they are copies of.
Similar here. I bought a Fizik 3D seat which I like well enough so I bought a Ryet for my gravel bike. I noticed that the Ryet 3D cushion is softer and thinner than the Fizik and I can feel the carbon shell underneath. Conversely, the Fizik 3D cushion is a little too hard for me. I feel like Goldilocks here... 😕
I really like Oz's stuff he does them just right, those fitment tools are great too! very interesting I've an SMP T5 saddle and the position of saddles are very crucial, imperative in fact! 👍
Hi Mr OZ cycle i just want to say thank you so much for your advice and ideas on cycling particularly the chain waxing method that works beautifully i have two chains and just swap them over every 250 kms or so . Thanks again Steve
thanks for posting the video and the hint for the round seat post clamp vs. oval shaped rail. funny thing: my 25€ saddle 20 y old fits best, whatever I have tried on the race bike. on my gravel I ride a Selle Flite full leather saddle bought in 1994. Whatever I have tried I sold on ebay 3 weeks later. for me it would make more sense if the manufacturers offer saddles with different widths to get a pre-selection a bit more effective (SQ Lab does!).
Width of the saddle nose should get more discussion. But kudos to Oz for mentioning at all. The saddle maker marketers and industry reviewers totally miss how important this dimension is to many cyclists. I rode in pain for many years because I was no smarter about saddle dimensions than what marketers wanted us to pay attention to and reviewers found convenient data for. So cyclists who are still having pain, get a physiology diagram and FIND YOUR LESSER TROCHANTERS. If, like me, your left and right Lesser Trochanters are closer together than average you will likely be doing worse than wearing out the inboard sides of your bike pants. For me, I was supporting more weight on my Lesser Trochanters than on my sit bones. Not only are these not good weight bearing points but this interference reduced pedaling efficiency. Since almost nobody publishes nose width of saddles you have to figure it out from product photos. From the upside down saddle photos in catalogs look how the rail width compares to the saddle. Rail width is about the only standard we have left. If you can see saddle out board of rails then the saddle nose is too wide for someone with narrow gap between Lesser Trochanters.
I think the greatest thing about cycling long distances, is that you get to painfully acknowledge the existence of bits in your body you never knew existed :)
I bought a Selle SMP Dynamic three years ago, never looked back! I actually like the shape of it now, but first thought it looked weird. Haven't tried a 3D one yet.
I bought one of the Ryet cheapies and so far, it's an improvement on the stock saddle my bike came with. I wouldn't say it's plush but I can do 100km alright, and I find I'm not getting the consistent "small hard lump" feeling saddle sore (?) I used to get on one of my sit bone areas. And it's half the weight of my stock saddle which doesn't hurt either 😀 FWIW my saddle clamp is round not oval, but I had my LBS check it and we all agreed that there is zero daylight visible around the rails, it seems to support the saddle perfectly. I know it's a risk, but I am a very risk-averse person and it satisfies my cautious nature. I only used about 6-7Nm to clamp it I think, with some carbon grip paste. So far no movement, but I'm conscious to listen out for any strange sounds or movement that may indicate problems.
One thing about shell flexibility is that it will influence where on the saddle you sit. When on the saddle, your weight will depress the part of the shell you're resting on, and that will create a small valley your sit bones tend to gravitate to. More flexy shells will show this effect more pronounced.
All good advice. However, I disagree with the experts in that I like soft padding where the sit-bones contact (I ride an Aliante Gamma which is well-padded). I've tried 3-d printed saddles and they can be just as miserable as any other saddle that doesn't work. For me, versions of the Aliante with hard padding are uncomfortable, even though they have the same shape as the Gamma version.
Slightly OT, but looking to get a saddle that's wider than I should have - it's 155mm, while my sit bones are 110mm. MTB, casual riding @ ~60 torso angle to horizontal - I'm thinking the width shouldn't much of an issue since I'm riding more upright?
Great video. I’m in the market for a new saddle. My bum needs some relief. Question for you… I began making my on “liquid wax” per your instructions. Does this liquid wax require shacking up before use? It appears the bottle I made separated. The wax settles to bottom. 🤔
Selle italia used to make a modl calle the SLR, sadly discontinued now (or renamed, they still make slr that are different). Used to have a flat nose that was so comfortable, now all the noses are round and/or sharp and uncomfortable for rising the rivet 😢
Very good tutorial u can get either 3D seat or carbon rail $18.49 TEMU. I dunno but i think a slick shiny surface seat probably going 2b superiour. I feel like it will better keeps things from sticking 2 1capilary numbing postition always move around on thbike thats thcardinal of all rules. Lower friction.... Think wisdom behind th Brooks B17.
Man I have so much money in saddles and I have yet to find a truly comfortable one, my bum burns at the 30 mile mark….still looking, and yes my bike fits
Can anyone help me what the best angle works (front to back) for you with the Ryet 3D saddle. The saddle is the best i have so far, but i think it can be better... Thanks for your help everyone
9:46 Can't you just replace the bolts with longer bolts? I don't see why not, as long as the rounded shape at top and bottom is the same it shouldn't matter. For mountain bikers there's no such thing as correct clamp. Seat posts and dropper posts have only one clamp. Some have different offsets to correct for awkward seat tube angles even that is not common.
I don't know why they don't wrap the 3D-printed part around the shell, rubbing on the side of the shell is an issue I have had with this type of saddle (I have tried several and ended up selling them all!). Great video!
@@stevenleffanue not shape. The padding is crap. Maybe is good for a small Asian but I am 85kg and it's to soft, after 30 minutes when it collapses it's like sitting on bare carbon
@@kubackjeeeryet is great. They make many different designs of 3d printed saddles. I have almost everyone. The important thing about the saddle is that the shape fits you. The padding in all honesty doesn't really matter if the shape is right. That's why people can ride a carbon saddle. Personally I want the lightest saddle. Specialized power mirror saddle is heavy. It's now on my trainer bike
I am 100kg and have been happy with a Ryet 3-d printed model. It is a bit softer padded than another similar Aliexpress one I got, but both are comfortable, very light, and very reasonably priced. The shape works (for me). I have yet to try it for a ride of over 120kms, but so far so good. The softer Ryet one also is comfortable for short in town trips in regular work slacks. The other one is not.
Excellent info, nothing worse than finding your favorite saddle then it goes out of production after a few years and you have to start over. It shouldn't be too long before we can make our own at home with a printer.
Great idea. I'd say making the rails strong enough might be the only snag to printing your own saddle.
I bought a Specialized 3d printed saddle, liked it so much I decided to buy the Ryet replica for my second bike. The shape was spot on but the quality of the foam just wasn’t there. The difference to the original was significant and the Ryet padding was a little too soft. It’s ok for the price but they just can’t match the originals they are copies of.
Similar here. I bought a Fizik 3D seat which I like well enough so I bought a Ryet for my gravel bike. I noticed that the Ryet 3D cushion is softer and thinner than the Fizik and I can feel the carbon shell underneath. Conversely, the Fizik 3D cushion is a little too hard for me. I feel like Goldilocks here... 😕
The Ryet ultimate has fimer padding.
I really like Oz's stuff he does them just right, those fitment tools are great too! very interesting I've an SMP T5 saddle and the position of saddles are very crucial, imperative in fact! 👍
Incredibly thorough as always Mr Oz cycle,great work 😎👍
What a thoughtful and articulate vid. Super helpful and much appreciated.
Hi Mr OZ cycle i just want to say thank you so much for your advice and ideas on cycling particularly the chain waxing method that works beautifully i have two chains and just swap them over every 250 kms or so . Thanks again Steve
Great content as always! ❤
Great overview of the topic, well done. Would be very interested in a follow up review of the Ryet after a few months
You are AWESOME 😸👍. I really appreciate Your approach to value vs name brand bling 😊
Thanks for sharing. BiSaddle Bonneville SRT 2.0 with cutout was the perfect solution for me. Highly recommend.
thanks for posting the video and the hint for the round seat post clamp vs. oval shaped rail.
funny thing: my 25€ saddle 20 y old fits best, whatever I have tried on the race bike. on my gravel I ride a Selle Flite full leather saddle bought in 1994. Whatever I have tried I sold on ebay 3 weeks later. for me it would make more sense if the manufacturers offer saddles with different widths to get a pre-selection a bit more effective (SQ Lab does!).
Width of the saddle nose should get more discussion. But kudos to Oz for mentioning at all. The saddle maker marketers and industry reviewers totally miss how important this dimension is to many cyclists. I rode in pain for many years because I was no smarter about saddle dimensions than what marketers wanted us to pay attention to and reviewers found convenient data for.
So cyclists who are still having pain, get a physiology diagram and FIND YOUR LESSER TROCHANTERS. If, like me, your left and right Lesser Trochanters are closer together than average you will likely be doing worse than wearing out the inboard sides of your bike pants. For me, I was supporting more weight on my Lesser Trochanters than on my sit bones. Not only are these not good weight bearing points but this interference reduced pedaling efficiency.
Since almost nobody publishes nose width of saddles you have to figure it out from product photos. From the upside down saddle photos in catalogs look how the rail width compares to the saddle. Rail width is about the only standard we have left. If you can see saddle out board of rails then the saddle nose is too wide for someone with narrow gap between Lesser Trochanters.
I think the greatest thing about cycling long distances, is that you get to painfully acknowledge the existence of bits in your body you never knew existed :)
Greetz from Germany to Australia ;)
G'day! How's the weather over there?...it's bonza ere .
Horrible, 6°C and raining...
I bought a Selle SMP Dynamic three years ago, never looked back! I actually like the shape of it now, but first thought it looked weird. Haven't tried a 3D one yet.
Have Spec Power with Mirror on all my bikes. Gone is seat pain and frontal discomfort. Expensive, but probably my best upgrade ever.
I bought one of the Ryet cheapies and so far, it's an improvement on the stock saddle my bike came with. I wouldn't say it's plush but I can do 100km alright, and I find I'm not getting the consistent "small hard lump" feeling saddle sore (?) I used to get on one of my sit bone areas. And it's half the weight of my stock saddle which doesn't hurt either 😀
FWIW my saddle clamp is round not oval, but I had my LBS check it and we all agreed that there is zero daylight visible around the rails, it seems to support the saddle perfectly. I know it's a risk, but I am a very risk-averse person and it satisfies my cautious nature. I only used about 6-7Nm to clamp it I think, with some carbon grip paste. So far no movement, but I'm conscious to listen out for any strange sounds or movement that may indicate problems.
One thing about shell flexibility is that it will influence where on the saddle you sit. When on the saddle, your weight will depress the part of the shell you're resting on, and that will create a small valley your sit bones tend to gravitate to. More flexy shells will show this effect more pronounced.
So true. The flex in the shell also helps absorb shocks and enhances the comfort which is why I try to avoid carbon shell designs - too stiff.
Thanks for the info Oz, I was considering one for the MTB, but they are so overpriced!
There are cheaper ones with cromoly rails and plastic shells instead of carbon if that's any help.
One pf the key featured for me is the front to back curvature. I dont get along with saddles that arr flat from tip to stern.
All good advice. However, I disagree with the experts in that I like soft padding where the sit-bones contact (I ride an Aliante Gamma which is well-padded). I've tried 3-d printed saddles and they can be just as miserable as any other saddle that doesn't work. For me, versions of the Aliante with hard padding are uncomfortable, even though they have the same shape as the Gamma version.
Slightly OT, but looking to get a saddle that's wider than I should have - it's 155mm, while my sit bones are 110mm.
MTB, casual riding @ ~60 torso angle to horizontal - I'm thinking the width shouldn't much of an issue since I'm riding more upright?
Great video. I’m in the market for a new saddle. My bum needs some relief.
Question for you… I began making my on “liquid wax” per your instructions. Does this liquid wax require shacking up before use? It appears the bottle I made separated. The wax settles to bottom. 🤔
Yes , shake before use
Thanks. Love your channel. 😊
Selle italia used to make a modl calle the SLR, sadly discontinued now (or renamed, they still make slr that are different).
Used to have a flat nose that was so comfortable, now all the noses are round and/or sharp and uncomfortable for rising the rivet 😢
Yes , there have been some great saddles in the past that are unfortunately no longer made.
Very good tutorial u can get either 3D seat or carbon rail $18.49 TEMU.
I dunno but i think a slick shiny surface seat probably going 2b superiour. I feel like it will better keeps things from sticking 2 1capilary numbing postition always move around on thbike thats thcardinal of all rules. Lower friction.... Think wisdom behind th Brooks B17.
Discontinued on Temu
So, if the cutout portion is big enough you can dangle your snorkle and won't have to stop to pee. Might be dangerous on second thought.
Whats the durability of these saddles? i know gel saddles dont last even 6 months with constant use
Gel creeps from higher pressure areas to lower fairly quickly. May be early days for 3d saddles feedback at moment. Another 12 months should tell.
mixed 5d -for me
Question has to be: was there actually any advantage? Personally, I didn't like the feel of the top.
If you can't get the saddle you like anymore, the 3d printed ones are more likely to be comfortable than plain skins.
Man I have so much money in saddles and I have yet to find a truly comfortable one, my bum burns at the 30 mile mark….still looking, and yes my bike fits
Definitely try an average shaped 3d printed saddle. Then use chamois lotion...for long rides I use papaw cream.
Spellcheck please!
"Perineum"
"Flexibility"
Definitely not perennial 😅
Your voice is insanely similar to John Taylor of Duran Duran O_o
At least John Taylor can sing 😄
Can anyone help me what the best angle works (front to back) for you with the Ryet 3D saddle. The saddle is the best i have so far, but i think it can be better... Thanks for your help everyone
Most common is starting with dead flat saddle and tilt up or down according to where you feel it too hard...nose or sit bones.
@@stevenleffanue Thanks for your help OZ. So the best thing is to level the saddle (front to rear) and then cycle and ajust if needed ??
Yep 👍
Has anyone found the 135mm width saddle from this company??
9:46 Can't you just replace the bolts with longer bolts? I don't see why not, as long as the rounded shape at top and bottom is the same it shouldn't matter. For mountain bikers there's no such thing as correct clamp. Seat posts and dropper posts have only one clamp. Some have different offsets to correct for awkward seat tube angles even that is not common.
Yes you can , if you can source the bolts to fit.
It looks like a copy of a Pro Stealth Saddle.
👏👏👏🇦🇹👍✌️
I don't know why they don't wrap the 3D-printed part around the shell, rubbing on the side of the shell is an issue I have had with this type of saddle (I have tried several and ended up selling them all!). Great video!
Because you can't 3D print around the shell. Go watch láser 3D printing videos.
??? Paid promotion?
No. I've never had a single paid promotion. I get to keep the products sent , that's all. Bought this Ryet seat out of my weekly food budget 😊
...or just get a bike fit
Why is your saddle so much nose up???
Accident 26 years ago left me with sciatica. Somehow my pelvis now has an up tilt. All my saddles have slight nose up.
Those ryet saddles suck big time. The 3d print is to soft and and with carbon base it gets harsh after 30 minutes
Sounds like the Ryet shape isn't for you.
@@stevenleffanue not shape. The padding is crap. Maybe is good for a small Asian but I am 85kg and it's to soft, after 30 minutes when it collapses it's like sitting on bare carbon
Good point about weight. Yes , not always but generally heavier riders will benefit from better padding. I'm 76kg
@@kubackjeeeryet is great. They make many different designs of 3d printed saddles. I have almost everyone. The important thing about the saddle is that the shape fits you. The padding in all honesty doesn't really matter if the shape is right. That's why people can ride a carbon saddle. Personally I want the lightest saddle. Specialized power mirror saddle is heavy. It's now on my trainer bike
I am 100kg and have been happy with a Ryet 3-d printed model. It is a bit softer padded than another similar Aliexpress one I got, but both are comfortable, very light, and very reasonably priced. The shape works (for me). I have yet to try it for a ride of over 120kms, but so far so good. The softer Ryet one also is comfortable for short in town trips in regular work slacks. The other one is not.