How to Install an Electric Heat Pump Water Heater | Ask This Old House
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- čas přidán 6. 10. 2018
- Ask This Old House plumbing and heating expert Richard Trethewey travels to Celebration, Florida to help a homeowner select and install the right electric water heater
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Time: 3-4 hours
Cost: $1000
Skill Level: Moderate
Tools List for Installing an Electric Heat Pump:
Hose
Pipe cutters
Shopping List:
Electric heat pump water heater
Pipe and fittings to match existing water pipes
Correct adhesives for existing pipes (PVC glue, solder and flux, etc.)
Vacuum valve
T&P valve
Steps:
1. Shut the power off to the electric water heater and shut off the main water supply to the house.
2. Connect a hose to the bottom of the tank and run the hose to outside. Drain the old water heater.
3. Use the pipe cutters to cut the pipes to the water heater and remove it.
4. Put the new heat pump water heater into place.
5. Connect the new water heater to the main water supply using the appropriate size and type of pipes to match the existing water line.
6. Install a vacuum valve near the top of the water heater to prevent the water heater from collapsing in on itself in case it is turned off.
7. Be sure that the water heater has a T&P valve and that it is correctly installed.
8. Some installations may require an expansion valve or expansion tank.
9. Turn the water and the electricity back on.
Resources:
Richard installed the Voltex® Hybrid Electric Heat Pump water heater, manufactured by A.O. Smith (www.hotwater.com/) to save electricity over a conventional tank style water heater.
The other materials used for this project, including PVC piping, PVC glue, pipe cutters, and wrenches can all be found at home centers.
In the workshop, Richard discusses which homeowners should consider a whole-house electric tankless. Expert assistance with this portion was provided by Bosch Thermotechnology (www.bosch-climate.us/).
Expert assistance with this segment was provided by Jim’s Plumbing and Irrigation of Orlando, Florida.
About Ask This Old House TV:
Homeowners have a virtual truckload of questions for us on smaller projects, and we're ready to answer. Ask This Old House solves the steady stream of home improvement problems faced by our viewers-and we make house calls! Ask This Old House features some familiar faces from This Old House, including Kevin O'Connor, general contractor Tom Silva, plumbing and heating expert Richard Trethewey, and landscape contractor Roger Cook.
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How to Install an Electric Heat Pump Water Heater | Ask This Old House
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This was an exact replacement for the old one that lasted about 10 years. czcams.com/users/postUgkx7yWIKcrbA9KMHkGSfcgxW2lsjHT6B8Sh The top of my mitigation tube by my roofline was just a 90 elbow which allowed too much debris to fall down into the fan, eventually ruining it. Without this issue, I bet it would have kept running another 10 years. When I replaced this fan, I added an extra elbow joint so the top tube now it does a 180, which should solve that problem. The radon guys around here wanted to charge me a $300 diagnostic fee, then parts/labor (probably close to $600 total). I installed this all by myself in about an hour for the cost of the fan; it would probably be even easier/faster with two people. FYI the manufacturer's warranty greatly differs depending on whether you install it yourself (1 yr warranty) or have a licensed installer do it (10 yrs).
I've never had a water heater last 20 years. That's amazing his lasted that long.
@@danieltashjian306 hard to believe a 20 year old water heater still works after 20 years with hard water. It's almost impossible.
Every video I watch I learn something new and useful, thanks for what you do.
I have an exact model to replace my old propane water heater. This has paid for it self in the first year I'm using it. Very happy with it. Plenty of hot water for a family of 4, plus keeps my garage cool in the summer.
What did you pay?
What sort of temp stop are you seeing? Hot Florida garage here
Garage is getting hot today. Someone go run a load of dishes.
@@TheDaniel688
Dish washers usually have their own internal water heaters (and use very little water).
Run a load of laundry with the HOT/HOT cycle..
@@Bonjour-World it was meant to be a joke but since you decided to chime in: whether they have their own hot water heater or not, dishwashers are installed using the hot water supply if available so they will draw hot water when they fill. They don't draw from both hot and cold like a washing machine. The internal water heater will bump up the water temp of incoming water if necessary (for example if someone just took a shower or did laundry and used up the hot water) and is also run to keep the water hot during the longer wash and rinse cycles.
I’d like to see more of how you installed everything behind the tank
I have A.O. Smith water heater that’s 30 years old, replacing this weekend with hybrid. I’m confident it will reduce my electric consumption!
I have a concrete lined (HydraStone) hot water heater that was installed in 1995. It is still working just as well as it did when it was installed. It holds 120 gallons. It is a lot of water, but it's barely on.
4:28 vacuum valve
4:38 tempeture and pressure relief
4:58 additional relief F place to expand (check valve)
Love it I've never seen that type of water heater in the UK with the heat pump. Great idea p.s I'm s plumber as well
Great explanation!
I bought this water heater czcams.com/users/postUgkx8G49mV71sAzUl9shXyLW-r3XgHH9EVh1 for use in my bus conversion. I installed it under my kitchen sink and it is fed by a high efficiency on-demand LP water heater. It is both a backup hot water source as well as a water saving device since we have hot water on demand rather than having to wait for the gas on demand water heater to finish its ignition cycle. I decided on this water heater due to the fact that it only draws 1300watts when it's ON instead of the 1500 watts that most Water heaters this size draw. In an RV a couple hundred watts can be a big deal. With very low standby losses, I don't have to worry about excessive power consumption. When propane is not available for our gas water heater, in conjunction with our low flow shower head there is enough hot water available to shower, albeit we won't be taking "hotel showers." Also very happy with the recovery rate of this water heater. Granted, it is quite small, but it does exactly what we need it to do.
I guess I should add one of those vacuum breaker valves to my HPWH, I was a little surprised to see the CPVC run right to the water heater. O assume that's what the homeowner already had in the area but I thought most water heater installations recommended a flexible line for the final connection, something like a corrugated stainless steel line. That way if there's any kind of seismic activity it's less likely to split a line. I wonder why more of the heat pump water heaters don't have connections for ductwork. I imagine if you were in Florida and it never got really cold and you had a steam and hot attic if you could pull that are down for your intake that would make the unit much more efficient rather than using air from the room that is probably going to be cooler than the rest of the house from the water heater running
In FL, you'd think they'd come up with a way of integrating a HW heater like this into the central AC system. This way it could use the waste heat from the central AC to heat water, and waste cold air coming out of the water heater as part of the AC system.
The tech is there... I think no one wants to design the system though..
We do I live in South Florida and 20 plus years ago it was standard practice in most parts to install what is called a heat recovery system. Hot water is made for FREE when the air conditioner is running. Unfortunately when the air conditioner is replaced the heat recovery system is abandoned because of the high cost to cut into the new a/c coil. Most companies don't even know what it is so they just cut it off when replacing equipment and most will say it will void manufacturer warranty to hook it back up to new equipment.
They do for pools.
@@pjplumber2146 there's actually an Ask ThisOldHouse video on it
Unfortunately the focus of the laws in FL is never about conservation or the environment
1:20 That guy looks pissed he can't have electric on demand hot water heater.
🤣🤣🤣 Yes he does. Trying to stare into his soul with that glare,
Very nice
One thing i dont like that A.O. smith needs to fix is to get rid of the female treading for the condensation drip pan. I had to replaced them a lot lately cause they crack easily , i just put a hose clamp around them now .
Good education! What psi should be set for the Thermal expansion relief valve that is installed in the cold water line side?
I've read too many reviews regarding these units having the compressor fail within 1-3 years. Many people have complained about dealing with Rheem's or Home Depot's warranty service only to find that the warranty is prorated and they need to return the unit because no part can be replaced. It just seems to me that all the energy savings gets eaten up by the high initial cost and frequent replacement. I really hope these become more reliable, but for now, I'm sticking with electric.
Nice video.
I just installed the Rheem 50 gal heat pump model, and love it so far. My only real complaint is that they don't place the cold inlet/hot outlet on top like 99% of other water heaters. You end up having to run pipes in crazy routes around the tank to make it work. I used PEX for its flexibility, and I avoided using any elbows (only bend supports), but it ain't the prettiest thing anyone's ever seen.
If inside it will save you money in the summer and cost more in the winter. You are basically sucking heat from inside your house to heat the water. Your furnace will have to replace that heat in the winter. Then you are combining the inefficiencies of both machines. You are better off getting a heatpump furnace that heats the water too.
Not if it's in the basement, like mine is. I'll be getting some geo-thermal benefit, since the basement would never drop much below 50F even with no heat on. For the heat it does waste, almost every fuel is cheaper to heat with than resistive electric.
You're right that one integrated into the primary furnace would be ideal, but those are hard to find and typically very expensive.
My ECOsmart ECO 18 would’ve worked great in this application. It’s a two element tankless, it would’ve used two 40amp breakers.
However, with the built in heat pump. This customer will have the added benefit of dehumidify the garage too.
Will that work? He has 150 total in Florida. What happens at night, A/C on, fridge, cooktop, other electronics, and he opens the electric garage door?
Joseph1NJ I live in Connecticut and I also use a simple solar water heater to pre-heat my water for the ECO 18. I can get it up to 68°f during the winter time. Which is about 4° cooler than Florida’s ground water.
With that said, I ran some tests on my ECO 18. At 68°F, the temp out of the ECO 18 is about 120°. And the first element is fully on at 33.0amps. The second element is on at 15.9amps.
The highest that I got the pre-heat was 87.8°F and that was towards the end of spring and before I moved. The ECO 18 drew 23.4amps for the first element and 0amps for the second element. Output water temp was 129.6°
Love the heatpump water heater great way to save power and you cool the garage off
No cleaner or Primer on the Cpvc :(
You don't technically need it with the yellow Oatey cement and Flow Guard pipes, though I prefer the old purple&orange myself.
its good practice to always use cleaner and on hot water lines I always use cleaner
I read a study on plumbing supply that primer is more often than not detremental to joint strength. Don't know how accurate it was.
According to Corzan primer is needed to "prepare the bonding area for the addition of cement and subsequent assembly".
www.corzan.com/blog/the-dos-and-donts-of-cpvc-piping-solvent-cement-welding
How much cold air does this thing actually put out? Is it going to cool down my garage at all? I live in Florida so I really wish it would.
I just got a Gen5 Rheem Proterra Hybrid water heater and the compressor hum is unbearable (this is a known issue). After there any solution that counteract the harmonics that cause the hum?
Hi. Love the info in this video. I live in Alaska. Currently I have a traditional cast iron gas furnace (40 yr old) and a 48 gallon water heater (couple yrs old) that are mounted in my garage. I’m considering an upgrade. I was considering an indirect water heater. However I’m trying to figure out a solution for cooling my garage in the summer also. It’s staying around 90 degrees. I liked the idea of the cooling effect of the heat pump system but don’t know if that would be good for our long winter. Though I do have a separate heater in the garage. The furnace however usually provides enough heat in the winter that the heater rarely kicks on. Any suggestions?
As the air temp drops, so does the efficiency of the equipment. Under a certain temperature, I want to say it's around 20F for these units, the equipment will only use the backup electric heating element due to the lack of performance of the heat pump. In the summer the heat pump will cool the space at around 4200 btuh max, or 1/3 ton. It will only cool the space when hot water is consumed, standby heat loss in the tank is minimal and in standby conditions the heater will actually warm the space slightly. In super cold conditions heat pumps don't make a ton of sense just due to the drop in efficiency of traditional heat pumps. HVAC heat pumps often have optional low ambient kits that improve performance in lower temps but those will bottom out around -20F.
Can i use Coleman's English mustard on the pvc or do i have to use oatey's?
which T&P valve and vacuum valve used? thanks.
Been trying to come out on this show
Come out to your family and friends first.
I live in NE Texas where avg water temperature is 65 degrees and I have a 20kw unit (2x 240 40a breakers) and it has no problem keeping up with demand. MY house is all electric and I have a 200 amp main. I bet this guy could have used a 12kw or a 15kw tankless and have been just fine in Florida.
thats what I didn't understand. he quickly dismissed the idea of going tankless.
Hi. I have a question?How confident are you about electrical water heaters? I have
a small house (625 sqr/ft) with a basement. The house is located in Michigan.
It has only one bathroom. The places using hot water are the bathroom sink, the
shower and the kitchen sink. I am
thinking of adding another half bathroom in the future. In winter time the
waters gets really cold. I wanted to ask what would be best for this situation
since I don’t want to spend on something that is not necessary. Is it better a regular gas water heater? Is it worthy a (noritz ez40 water heater) tankless water heater or a AO Smith tankless water heater ? Would it be a good idea to purchase two electrical water heaters? one for the bathroom and one for the kitchen? What do you think? I would like to hear your suggestions. Thank you
I have an old gas water heater in my basement in Vermont. When it dies I thought about using one of these. Any idea how cold one of these would make a 15' x 20' basement? I love the idea of making the basement dryer when I make warm water.
I just put one in my basement. It's working fine now and I don't notice the basement being colder, but my basement is unfinished anyway. I'm looking forward to the dehumidification action in the summer.
we got one installed 3 weeks ago and we have ran out of hot water 5 times. Small family of 4 and we don't take long showers. I will be contacting the company to come remove it and put the old one back
Good to know. Did you put the old one back?
@@flat-earther yes. have not ran out of hot water since
LESLIE, IN EUROPE ,THE ORIGINATOR OF THE HEAT PUMPW/H IS A GERMAN COMPANY ,MOST POPULAS WORLDWIDE STELBRON, ,NOMODY I visited there ever complained of low water available, nor NOISE, SURE THEY COST MORE, but ALSO THE CONDENSER IS NOT IN THE WATER TANK,ITS SHRINK FIT AROUND THE TANKS, I HAVE NAT GAS HERE IN NJ, BUT WHEN I GET TO FLORIDA,ITS ONE OF THOSE FOR ME ! 🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸
The long silent pause on the phone, when you tell the HVAC guy your hotwater heater needs looking at.
Andrew Armstrong that means hes tired
Interesting
I have a small utility room that gets down to 60 on average through the winter. Would I be able to run duct from another heated room in the basement to the intake on one of these, or do I need to stick with traditional water heater?
Rheem does offer a ducting kit. You can duct both intake/exhaust or one or the other. The heat pump will be able to function down to a pretty low temperature due to the type of refrigerant used, but you will need to provide a certain amount of free area so the air doesn't get too cold. As air temp drops, so does the efficiency of the equipment.
That's awesome.
Basements in North Dade.
Is the 150amp limit on the main breaker dictated by the incoming power lines? Can't it be upgraded?
You can upgrade to 200 amp service but an electrician will charge at least 3 grand (I had one quote me 5 grand)
I really like cold water heaters.
You'd have a high electrical bill. I like the ones that keeps the water hot all the time, aka hot water heater.
Don’t the heat pump water heaters need more space around them to function correctly? We were told it needed to be 2 feet from the wall
will it be beneficial in Oregon/WA to run hybrid ?
J Kl lots of ppl do around here. I have one
Would I need to install an expansion tank or is the expansion valve just as good? I live in south Florida and have a check valve at the meter. Thanks.
I really hope you don't think that these people will read this do you?
Yes, you are required to install a thermal expansion tank on cold inlet to water heater if you have a closed system near water meter. The T&P relief valve should never be used as a primary within a closed system, that is why they enforce thermal expansion tanks. Great question and hope this helps!
Every episode there seems to be people that think they could do better than the guys, which everybody does things differently but I would love to have This Old House build me a home,...If I ever had the money.
Don't get to instant unless you've got short pipes because you get a delay of hot water.
They have a hybrid, 5 gallons always hot, the rest on demand.
yeah. I think the initial plan was instant though.
OK - serious questions here:
#1 - AO Smith or Rheem for one of these hybrid electric WHs?
#2 - Is a electric tankless more energy efficient in central Florida vs one of these hybrid electrics if you have the panel space (I have 300A service) - energy guides on the tankless electric models are more difficult to find vs. the hybrids?
I've got the Rheem (2 months now). I haven't seen the savings I thought I'd get but time will tell.
Ronald Orosz are you using it in the condenser only setting or a blended setting where it still pulls heat from the elements when needed?
Energy saver setting where it uses the compressor and heating elements. Seems to use more energy in heat pump mode.......which is odd.
BTW I live on north Florida.
Ronald Orosz - that is interesting that it is using more electricity in that mode...is the heater in your garage?
Am I the only one that's never seen a quad tie main breaker?
I've seen them just not in a residential setting.
Not uncommon.
Maybe three-phases power
Have one at my aunts house and her rental property’s
If single phase and multiple breakers are being tied together on a circuit with a heat pump, motor, etc.. you are suppose to use breakers with a common trip. I'm far from an expert when it comes to the NEC but that's my understanding.
Is it common in some parts of the country to use PVC for water supply lines? I've only seen it for drains before.
I believe that was cpvc
It’s CPVC which is technically allowed, but a horrible choice… after a few years it’ll turn brittle and become an instant flood risk. Honestly people only plumb in CPVC if they’re trying to save a buck or just don’t know.
Copper is the way to go for sure.
@@youngrav2311 PEX
I just wonder how reliable the heat pump is. Seems like there is just more there to go wrong.
I've read too many reviews regarding these units having the compressor fail within 1-3 years. Many people have complained about dealing with Rheem's or Home Depot's warranty service only to find that the warranty is prorated and they need to return the unit because no part can be replaced. It just seems to me that all the energy savings gets eaten up by the high initial cost and frequent replacement. I really hope these become more reliable, but for now, I'm sticking with electric.
Why not pex?
PVC water pipe?
Dwight Shroot??
Did he say hot water heater? What is that?
That panel wasn’t full at all. They’re were like 7 spots left for 15amps
Aaron Productions there isn’t enough power to supply it
Light Show huh? you can have as many amps as you want in the panel, the main will trip at 100/200 amps, which will probably never be reached at once
@@Aaronproductions with an electric tankless water heater, there is like a 99% chance it would trip the main breaker, well unless you turn off the AC, stove, oven, and dryer while you run the washing machine, dishwasher, take a shower, etc.
Just because a breaker panel has space, doesn't mean you can just throw any breaker in there. Some things are acceptable, for instance if you had two Teslas, you could easily charge them at different times. It's not as easy to turn off all your appliances any time you need to use hot water. They weren't kidding when they said the electric tankless heaters use 3 40 amp breakers.
How do you access the anode to replace it on that heater?
Google search it
No anode on many of these.
What protects the tank from corroding if it doesn't have an anode?
@@buelowexcavating Some of the tanks are fiberglass lined.
That makes sense.
I have my heater in my finished basement. Wont this just raise my heating bill?
Maybe slightly, but your basement probably doesn't get too cold to begin with due to it being underground. You get some geo-thermal benefit, and depending on what fuel you're using for heat, it's still probably a good tradeoff. Electric, resistive heat (normal electric tank) is usually the most expensive way to heat water.
bnasty267 understandable. I use oil for heat but even upstairs i keep the heat on like 69-70 which i feel like is lower than what others keep it at
It will keep your basement dry...which might be worth the slightly increased cost.
Kw consumption
Boy that CPVC looks dangerous 😳
Genuine question to people in USA, or even better the state of Florida, what is that plastic pipe he used? Is that common? Why no copper or even pex?
Genuinely interested 🤔🇬🇧
www.flowguardgold.com/ - pressure rated CPVC piping - that house was likely built at a time when Celebration, FL was being constructed initially with construction methods that were rated just average construction. Copper piping is expensive compared to CPVC both from a cost and labor perspective and at the time, PEX wasn't authorized/code compliant for construction in the area. I've seen $500k+ USD homes being built in the Orlando area that are still being built with CPVC water supply lines and are being buried in and under slab with no access other than ripping out concrete and vapor barrier. My wife and I are building a house in the area and one of my musts was to have copper or PEX for supply lines (we got PEX) and 2x6 framing for exterior walls on 2nd floor with block construction on 1st. In hurricane country there are still houses being built and meeting code using 2x4 construction throughout. It is a bad day waiting to happen in my opinion...
Dennis G Mattinson thanks Dennis. Appreciate the reply.
Good luck with your build 👍
It is CPVC, it is a very inexpensive solution (cheaper than PEX and much cheaper than copper). Unlike PEX it will crack when the pipes freeze, so it is really only useful when in warm climates where it never freezes, or if the pipes are very well insulated.
Or upgrade the electrical system to 200amp and go tankless. That's what we did, and it is way better than heating a giant bucket of water; also we live in a location that gets very cold (island in Lake Erie, OH). @thisoldhouse come check us out, if you want.
TaNKLESS ONLY MAKES SENSE IF GOT GAS HOOKUP.
coreymon77 Well, for some people swapping out for a heat pump style is simply more economical.
Where does the condensate go?
Talks about it and shows it clearly in the video. Watch again and pay attention.
@@ironnads7975 OK queen
This video fails to clarify the volume of space necessary for a hybrid water heater to draw heat from. A garage in FL or TX is about ideal, but there must be around 1,000 cubic feet available. It would have been much more helpful to cover this more extensively than safety valves, which are required on every water heater anyway. Instead, it’s barely alluded to at the end.
I guess these noisy. My electric water heater is in a closet inside my living space so a heat pump one is a no go for me unfortunately.
Good information but should slow it down and walk it through better!
That's a weird two tier breaker system.
How to install video and they don't even show any electrical wiring yeah it's simple and I can easily figure it out, I at least want to see where the electrical connection is located.
Amps are not power. Amps measure current, Watts measures power.
They just wanted an excuse to go to Florida!
Are heat pump water tanks available in gas?
No. Part of the point is getting away from gas.
Thing costs almost $2,000.00. 😲
the panel is right there, you could have just ran a new 30A wire instead of making a junction box
Could be read as NEC 400.7(A)(6) for equipment to facilitate frequent replacement - or it could be a local building code requirement. Why does it matter? It doesn't. BTW - any time you use "have" or "has" the correct tense of the verb is "run." You want to be picky about electrical, I'll be picky about correct English verb tense.
LOL just because you can add even 10 breakers, that does not mean your main can support the amperage!
I thought it had to be copper pipe coming of water heaters.
iShootBandits anything flys in Florida.
Haha
Depends on what area you're in... CPVC wouldn't be my first pick, that's for sure..
it's cheap and it doesn't freeze in FL
It does have to be copper. Copper pipe must extend “at least” 18” for cold inlet & hot outlet. Cannot use any other material unless this distance is achieved with copper pipe. Doesn’t matter about weather or temperature. The tank still produces heat, affecting non copper materials. Florida Plumbing Code & International Plumbing Code enforce this too. He failed miserably.
This was a great video but some of the initial information regarding electric hot water heaters was incorrect. When the electric HW heater was disconnected we see it had a 2-phase 30A breaker. This uses up to 30 A in each phase. A 150A service provides up to 150A in each phase. Thus, the electric HW heater uses as much as 20% of the capacity of the main breaker box.
The claim that an electric hot water heater would use three, 40A breakers, and could draw as much as 120A or 80% of the service box capacity is nonsense. First, residential homes typically do not have 3-phase electric power. Second, even if they did, the the currents in the three phases do not add (as discussed above for two phase.)
Finally, the hybrid heat pump hot water system installed in this video will revert to pure electric when high demand cannot be met by the heat pump itself. Under these conditions it will draw the same current as will a normal hot water heater.
It actually was correct, you missed that they were talking about TANKLESS electric hot water heaters.
They use up to 28KW or 116A@240v
Amps is not power.
Ever notice how many people say "hot water heater?"
A BIG QUESTION MY FRIEND.CAN I INSTALL A OUTDOOR(NOT INDOOR TANKLESS WATER HEATER) TANKLESS WATER HEATER INSIDE THE GARAGE TO REPLACE THE OLD WATER HEATER TANK?THANK U
At 1:21 I’ve never seen someone so angry on this old house
This guy looks like Dwight Schrute
Turned it into a rats nest of plumbing with CPVC lol
150 A? Am I the only one who is suprised by that insane amount?
No my house has a 200 amp panel in it thats pretty normal
Thats the entrance amperage water heater doesnt use that much.
So he referred to a part that takes the place of an expansion tank. He thinks that is the part that was leaking. So was the water heater still good? And why he not just replace that part that was leaking?
It was 20 years old. The unit is on borrowed time. Why wait for a failure if you can afford to replace the unit, and get a more efficient tank?
you should kiss that ole AO Smith on the lips...20 years....and she done good. :) LOL
Ours thru a.e.p lasted 26yrs
I have an A.O. Smith that is 32 years and going strong. I’m watching this video because I know it’s on borrowed time.
They could have went tankless on a dedicated line but ok.
They could, but they are getting a cooler less humid garage with the hybrid.
What’s the cost compared to a normal tank?
Around 500-1000 more
But the payoff is quick and substantial for the life of the unit.
Matt risinger ran the numbers here:
czcams.com/video/omivdhxdGv0/video.html
A couple of solar panels are less than $500. They will offset the cost of your electric water heater and you'll be on your way to free electrical power too
@@Bryan-Hensley not comparable. $500 worth of solar gear won't touch the power use of a water heater. Most you will get from that is charging your phone and a light.
Michael Rodgers agree. Cost of solar is not just the panel cost. Residential solar runs roughly $3.20 per watt so $500 will get you a whopping 125w system. Yearly this will produce 330kwh and even at an expensive rate of $0.15 per kwh your $500 system will make $50 in electricity per year. So 10 years to recoup the system cost before you're break even. The hybrid water heater will get there in half that time.
Oh he lives in celebration originally built by Disney later sold off but still has one of the strictest HLA policies ever
PVC = Proven Very Crappy
It was CPVC not PVC.
I can’t justify the price, these units retail for $3000 ... maybe in a few years.
What there like $1,300 at home depot
$1500 is pretty normal for them and the payoff is well worth it...compared to electric. I believe gas is still cheaper to operate.
Matt Risinger of the build show did a great comparison of the numbers:
czcams.com/video/omivdhxdGv0/video.html
In the winter they'll save you nothing unless it is outside of the house. You are basically sucking the heat out of your house to heat the water. Your furnace will have to replace the heat. In the summer they'll save you much more if inside the house. They aren't really great for year round use. You are better off having a heatpump furnace that heats the water too.
I just bought a 50 gallon Rheem hybrid water heater at the Home Depot for $1300. It's been working great!
I got mine(Performance Platinum 50 gal. 10-Year Hybrid High Efficiency Smart Tank Electric Water Heater) with a $500 instant energy rebate in Medford Or. i live in Redding Cailf. worth the trip! it would of cost me $1.300 +tax in Calif. I'll see if i can get the $300 PG&E Rebate? : ) .
CPVC NO BUENO
You guys cut it off to soon should let him finish talking about the unit.
CPVC is the worst. Change my mind
copper is the best change my mind :)
Amen
no changing your mind - it is the worst, copper is the best but if you need to use plastic, Uponor AquaPEX is the best of the plastics
Polybutylene is the worst. Breaks down in the presence of chlorides, and it was used extensively across the southern US like 20 to 30 years ago. Still plenty of houses that have it and it leaks a lot.
The CPVC lasted longer then the water heater.
So... on the surface, and from my general understanding, it doesn't seem much more complicated to install than a gas water heater. Then why do so many plumbers charge an arm and a leg to install? One asked $1,342 just in labor! What gives?
At 2:10 it would be worthwhile mentioning the fact that the side effect of this type of water heater that you are suggesting is basically operating as an air conditioner at the same time… It will turn your garage into a meat locker.
How is that more energy efficient?
JO MANGEEE Their higher efficiency is proven, and not debated. But my point is that sometimes you won’t want the side effect: cold air continuously blowing into your garage or basement, etc.
@@jomangeee9180 Moving heat is usually more efficient than making it.
It's in Florida I don't think there will be an issue with the garage having enough heat.
I have the Rheem and the garage is cool whereas before it was hot!
Vacuum release valve? Really? The system is pressurized to 30-40 PSI. If you need that valve it is because a big bomb went off nearby or a black hole opened. Both of which if it suck the system from 30-40 PSI to negative pressure that is a problem the least of your problems is the water heater "collapsing."
The guy has a leaky value ($15 item) and gets sold a $1,500 water heater?
At the beginning of the video, they explain why they should replace the electric water heater with a heat pump.
“Hot water heater”...hot water doesn’t need heating. It’s just a water heater.
Hot water heater
external-preview.redd.it/j_Yq-gLNOjSrYnQvjTFk0-XZJJOFZAiZkbnn47b5OF0.jpg?s=d62532a3af2e5365e2489c88e5feab2586ef3924
Not sure why an electric tankless water heater wouldn't be a good option for his home?
A water heater heats water to make it hot. A hot water heater is an oxymoron!
“This Old House” seem to have taken down all of their videos of Richard Tretheway naked-plumbing.
Arghhhhh, glued, pressurized plastic pipe...... That's a bad time waiting to happen.
yellow/gold CPVC is rated for pressure and supply lines - the joints will fail before the pipe but the expansion noise is nuts on those pipes in colder/temperate climates
That's what I'm on about. I would NEVER trust glue, in any situation.
1/4" Schedule 80 cpvc has a Max psi rating of 1130 @200°F and less.
He used the oatey Medium Yellow. I would of used the oatey Heavy duty Orange or Gray myself. www.oatey.com/125876/Category/Oatey-CPVC-Cements
It's not the plastic pipe itself I have an issue with. Plastic pipe is great in places where it's unseen. I wouldn't want plastic radiator tails for example. It's the methods of joining that I don't trust. Solder = great, Threads = Still doing the job perfectly well, Compression fittings = Wouldn't want to do a whole house but good for additions or alterations. Glue is an absolute no from me, no matter the quantity or size. Glue is for sticking pieces of paper together.
Stupidest thing i have ever seen is an electrical panel on the outside wall!
I am a Canadian homeowner. I watched the above video and realized that there is not benefit to me, in fact, it is a negative benefit, and here is why.
Our building is electrically heated. We are living in an area where the winter temperature drops to -20F overnight, and perhaps to -10F for days, during mid-january to March..
Any heat in the house came from electrical heating, so the heatpump to transfer the room heat to the water tank is obtained from electrical heaters.
Our hot water tanks (60 Gallon size), are very well insulated, and we do install a loop connection to act as a heat-trap. It is done for both the cold and hot water lines.
We could benefit from a dual energy tank for the months of May through mid October. But....
On the negative side of using the above dual energy tank,, our insurance companies will not insure a home for hot water leaks if the tank is more than 10 years old, even though the magnesium rods are replaced every two years. It is a policy common to all the insurers.
We generally get 20 years out of a new glass lined tank. Our newer tank models have three heater elements, with different wattage ratings. For converting to those tanks, the electric company covers about 1/3rd of the purchase price.
By the way, if the top element is heating, the other two are off. When the top of the tank reaches temperature, it enables the middle element, and when the middle of the tank reaches temprature, the lower element is turned on. Each element has a thermostat set for 50C (125F.). A full tank of very cold water can be heated to temperature within three hours.
Bottom line, the above tank in the video, is great for geographic areas where winters are mild and summers are quite hot. Our tanks are located inside a furnace room within the home. A fan and compressor noise is not an issue.
Hot water heat traps are simply a loop of PEX or a flexible loop, between the tank and the home line, preventing convection exchange of heated water up into the house, with the room temperature water. That convection occurs when the taps are all turned off.