How to Install a Heat Pump Water Heater | This Old House
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- čas přidán 12. 11. 2014
- This Old House plumbing and heating contractor Richard Trethewey is in hot water-again. (See below for a shopping list and tools.)
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Richard and Kevin traveled to Virginia to help a homeowner replace an aging electric water heater with a new, more efficient one. The new water heater uses heat pump technology, where heat is extracted from the surrounding air and used to heat the water inside the storage tank. Installation is similar to a standard electric water heater, except that a drain is needed to collect and discharge condensation, a byproduct of the heat pump.
Shopping List for How to Install a Heat Pump Water Heater:
- electric heat-pump water heater
- copper pipe and assorted fittings and valves, used to connect new water heater
- solder, flux and emery cloth, for sweating copper pipe
- plastic tubing, used to drain condensation from the heater
- tubing staples, for securing the plastic tubing to the wall
- ball valves, used to replace old shut-off valves
Tools for How to Install a Heat Pump Water Heater:
- tubing cutter, used to cut copper tubing
- pliers and wrenches, used to tighten and loosen threaded fittings
- propane torch, used to solder pipe joints
- hammer, for tapping in tubing staples
- utility knife, used to cut plastic tubing
The heat pump water heater is manufactured by General Electric (GE) [bit.ly/2IjLXpg]
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How to Install a Heat Pump Water Heater | This Old House
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Richard has described in detail how a heat-pump works about 6,000 times.
But I bet there are a lot of people who still don't get it.
And in two years the heat pump breaks and ur back to a regular electric hot water heater!!🤷♂️😂
@@robmcshane3260 Ten year warranty on it.
I bought this water heater czcams.com/users/postUgkx8G49mV71sAzUl9shXyLW-r3XgHH9EVh1 for use in my bus conversion. I installed it under my kitchen sink and it is fed by a high efficiency on-demand LP water heater. It is both a backup hot water source as well as a water saving device since we have hot water on demand rather than having to wait for the gas on demand water heater to finish its ignition cycle. I decided on this water heater due to the fact that it only draws 1300watts when it's ON instead of the 1500 watts that most Water heaters this size draw. In an RV a couple hundred watts can be a big deal. With very low standby losses, I don't have to worry about excessive power consumption. When propane is not available for our gas water heater, in conjunction with our low flow shower head there is enough hot water available to shower, albeit we won't be taking "hotel showers." Also very happy with the recovery rate of this water heater. Granted, it is quite small, but it does exactly what we need it to do.
Most manufacturers are recommending a flexible connection to the piping to keep compressor vibration from traveling through the home as noise.
Great TOH How-To, as usual. I watched this when deciding between an On-Demand system or a hybrid and this video helped push me to the Hybrid camp. That was a good decision since mine is in a NH lakefront house that gets only occasional use in winter. Heat is precious in those months, so I don't run it in Hybrid mode then. Summer is a different story and hybrid mode works great, and dehumidifies my finished basement as a side benefit. Installation was as simple as Richard made it look.
Thanks, fellas!
Richard is a certified expert in water heaters.
My old kenmore is from 1983 and still goin'. It only lasts for about a five minuet shower at full pressure though. I can't wait to get one of these new hybrid water heaters. The video was good, but the install wasn't quite to code. That 220 should be in conduit, and I don't see a pressure relief tank either. Where I live it required to have flexible copper lines to the heater and also have it strapped down so it don't tip over. I guess they're different rules here and there, but I wouldn't leave that wire exposed like that. Still a fun video to watch.
Musicman4HIM7 you probably live in KALOFORNIA, or other earthquake area.
Pressure relief tanks aren’t always necessary, it depends on the house’s circumstances.
technically an expansion tank is required if there is a backflow preventer on the mains. I have never seen conduit on a residential application electric water heater in 10 years in the trade it's perfectly legal here. even though not always required I always install an expansion tank
@@jenniferbyrne8334 conduit is in a lot of residential. If nm-b is exposed it must be protected whether in conduit or flex but must be protected!
@@mnf65 No, it is not "always" required to be protected. There are many circumstances where exposed NM-B is 100% acceptable. He is absolutely right, it is extremely rare to find that on a residential water heater. It is not required because the water heater is not in the normal living space, and installed in such a way that people will not be apt to hang things from it.
As always, great lesson TOH.
I got 16 years out of mine without replacing anything or doing any maintenance. Now I know they should be maintained so we’ll see how long my hybrid lasts.
Michael Mitchell so what part of the country you are in without hard water ?
@@flybyairplane3528 north Alabama
@@Godknowsvita keep it up, maybe you can hit 30.
Another great thing.
What a guy 💯
it is good for you
He described how a heat pump works way better than my trade teacher 😂
No heat trap on the output pipe of the tank?
Can you put some antifreeze in the hole where the sub pump is? then you could run the sub pump and have a little antifreeze in that system?
Great vid
These are great, on paper. I recently did my homework on these hybrids and they have a lot more cons than pros and the savings $ are minimal
Tankless makes way more sense. Not quite as efficient when running, but they only heat when you are using it. And they're as cheap as a regular electric water heater. With my propane tankless heater I've used less than 10 gallons of propane in over a year. If you want a heat pump get one that isn't built into the water heater tank - that way you can replace a leaking tank without buying a whole new heat pump.
@@ABlueDahlia Have you actually done any math? I doubt you understand what you are mathing....
@@ryanroberts1104 only if you got gas.
@@kalijasin Incorrect. Tankless water heaters are both efficient and cost effective for electric, propane, and natural gas.
@@ryanroberts1104 even if tankless heaters are 100% efficient (UEF=1), that's 3-4x less efficient than heat pump water heaters (UEF=3-4)
You don't know what you're talking about if you're claiming resistive heating (electric tankless and traditional heaters) can ever be more efficient than heat pumps
i'd love 2 have that. :)
I had come across, where that ‘pull switch,’ was mis wired, surprise. I also went to a ice machine at the SUNY MARITIME ACCADEMY, in the BRONX NY ,,where the machine was a 230 volt unit,,BUT the SOB whom installed, had put in a 120v disconnect, so ONLY 1 leg was disconnected, the other was HOT 100% when it was disconnected, all I could do was to wright it up, then put a warning tag on it, . .
Can you recommend brands and models to install?
Thanks
3 questions 1 can it be used on low budget solar electric ie 110 volts what's the highest temperature it reach on the heat pump alone and can the tank be replaced when it eventually gets a leak and one extra question how long is the warranty for total r&r so far I've looked at 2 1 was Rheem hybrid not able to be run on low budget solar and low heat in the water the 2nd was a split unit with the heat unit outside and the tank inside again won't work on low budget solar so have 2 options to use them either 8 grand for solar or 200$per month for grid tied power and neither I'm able or willing to pay I'm most people I like the idea of going green if it'll either save money or break even
I have a Manufactured Home where the water heater is in a tight closet with a removable panel on the front. Could I still install a Heat Pump Water Heater if I kept the panel removed and added a cutout in the wall above the removeable panel with a 16" by 16" louvered vent?
no.
Is there no exhaust to the outdoors for the heat pumps' heat extracted air?
That dude is a giant!
I wondered what happened to Eddie Haskell , now I know.
Now he has a nice cold shop :) Remember, only use a heat pump water heater in a location where you have EXCESS heat.
That depends. If his house is heated with efficient mini splits it would still be more efficient "stealing" heat from them compared to resistive water heating. If it's a concern in winter months just run it in resistive mode for that period of time
Could this be installed under a stairwell, I have 9 foot wall so a lot of space, to provide air I could install a mini fan in the wall to supply air from the main area of the home....would this work?? The reason why is Im built on a slab, so no basement and no attached garage...Thanks
I always collect the condensate water in buckets and do my laundry with it.
You're washing your clothes with water full of suspended dust (which is mostly dead skin) and other airborne microorganisms.
Gross....also why?
So will this make the room cold in the winter? Maybe make the heating system work a little harder?
Yes. But it's still more efficient.
It is code in my area to have an expansion tank earthquake straps and that electric wire would need to be in conduit.
With a backflow preventer in the system, I have heard it's advisable to have an expansion tank in the system. This reduces the cycling stress on the tank that leads to premature tank failures. (You can learn about this in other CZcams videos showing how to install the expansion tank in a domestic hw system.)What is your take on this?
he doesn't have a backflow, the vacuum breaker is to prevent the tank from collapsing when its drained, basically makes it where he doesn't have to open the faucet to do it.
Expansion tanks are required per code on all installations anyways now. When they talk about a backflow being on the system the mean like a RPZ or Double Check Valve being installed before the heater, usually only on commercial sites does this happen
Yes if there is a check valve on the incoming line you need an expansion tank otherwise the heated water would have no room to expand and cause the relief valve to drip.
maczrule which states is this now code? I have NEVER SEEN ONE IN NJ.
An Expansion tank is not needed if you have well water and don’t have a check valve after the well expansion tanks. I have one of these water heaters and no expansion tank because I am on a well even though my well expansion tanks are at least 140 feet from the water heater in a separate building!
Expansion tanks are only really needed to provide that air cushion and relief from pressures that can build in a closed system. Take a length of pipe, fill it completely with water and close off both ends, now heat the pipe. It will inevitably crack the pipe and leak. Now add a vertical leg onto that pipe filling only the main run leaving the vertical newly installed pipe empty and seal the system, now when the pipe is heated the pipe wont explode unless it is extremely heated superheating the steam but thats not gonna happen with a water heater as they only get up to boiling at very most. The expansion tank would be the vertical pipe you added, the caps on the ends of the pipe would be the check or prv valve closing the system off from the incoming supply, the heating method of the pipe is the water heater. Lol. the expansion tanks also are used as pressure stabilizers sometimes as well but only are required by law if your water company uses pressure reducing valves at the water meters for separate users, most of the north west has this requirement because they have distribution pressures that stay around 100psi or above and mains that get up to hundreds of psi from their pumping systems. Thats. Where you see the geysers when mains are broken..
No drip pan? No earthquake wall strap?
can't you use the account condenser also to heat the water in a hot water tank
Kareem Colebrooke are you a knucklehead ? That is the REASON of the HP, the condenser HEATS THE WATER, you are thinking the coil on top is a condensing unit, it’s an EVAPORATOR , cool air comes off they coil, that’s WHY you need a condensate line, !
Nice
will it be beneficial in Oregon/WA to run hybrid ?
yes
In our area it is code to have an expansion tank as part of the install above the H2O Tank. Is there a reason why this was not done?
Harold Malaby I have NEVER SEEN ONE in NJ, but I have had to install PRVs, and T & P valves, MANY places, the homeowner had put a bushing into the outlet, then ran1/4 “ copper out a window,
@@flybyairplane3528 Some manufacturers may even void your water heater warranty if you have a closed plumbing system but don’t have an expansion tank for your water heater.
Expansion tanks are required when there are backflow preventers on the cold water line.
He install vacuum breaker it does the same job as expansion tank.
Kevin always is the third wheel on this show
Kevin was cringe-worthy in this episode. Touchy, touchy. I'm glad to see his role has changed in later episodes.
can the heat pump be turned off in the winter? wouldn't want to run an A.C. when it's 20 below out
Yes. They have the ability to run as a regular heater. I agree... don't want to pull the basement down into the 30s haha.
Chris R why would your basement be so cold ?
@@flybyairplane3528 A heat pump pulls heat out of the environment. If it's in the basement, it's going to cool that space.
Good point. My basement about 62 at winter. Will see how much it will lower
So your pulling heat out of the air in the space where the water heater is. That energy still has to come from someplace. Am I right to assume your house heating bill will be higher because now you need your air heating system to heat the now cold air the water heater puts out?
Your thinking is correct. In the summertime this is a benefit, as this will help to cool your garage/basement where it is located. Many of the heat pump water heaters are hybrid models like this one which have an electric resistive heater that can be selected for use in the winter, so in theory there would be no parasitic drain on your HVAC. Most are wifi connected so this can be an easy selection with an app.
You're good
During warm weather pulling heat from the room is no problem. During cold weather isn’t a heat pump like running an air conditioner in a heated space?
My boy homeowner didn’t see confident on the way the new water heater is going to work 😂😂
Can you provide an example, or characterize the operational savings of heat pumps vs. tank-less water heaters? i.e.: Which is the wiser solution for lowest energy bills? Thanks in advance!
BluesLicks101 had YOU LISTENED, he said the heaters were about 4000 watts, but theHP was about 700 watts, so what is it that you do not understand ?
Leighton Samms you’re a tool
@@flybyairplane3528 To be fair, he did say that the 700watts would run for a longer, but unspecified period of time. so its hard to determine the energy usage
Madaspy good point. I read somewhere in hybrid mode need 7 hours to heat water after installation. So 7x 700= 4900 wats. I think my electric was able to heat in an hour, but I’m not sure. It’s 4500 wats. Maybe someone can comment how long it take to heat water by electric one
I have a 50 galon AO smith hybrid and I'm saving about $20-$25 a month on my electric bill. So it is worth it. I do live in Florida and it is located in my garage so perfect situation here plus it dehumidifies my garage.
If that thing is pulling heat out of the air isn't that going to make your heating bill in the winter go up?
Good question. All I can say is that it _shouldn't_ . If the water heater's space is heated, it can take that heat and put it into the water.
Very slightly, the tank isnt’t completely insulated and gives up some of the heat to the room through the tank itself and ever the copper hot water pipes.
John Anders how the hell does it give up HEAT to the surroundings ? It TAKES HEAT from the AREA, which it PUTS INTO WATER !
Leighton Samms some heat escapes through the tank wall.
Johnnie Burkhalter if you can BUY a WH that looses so much heat through the insulation, then that unit is CRAP, we have used recording thermistors on several brands, and the heat loss is so frigging minuscule, you ar the kind of person whom buys those “WRAPS “
Tankless is the way to go, no noise no freon.
tretten1234 tankless electric? In some places there's no way to get oil are gas. I'd like to see a comparison of a hybrid electric to electric tankless
tretten1234 tankless doesn’t dehumidify the basement.
tretten1234 NOTHING USES FREON anymore you moron, what CAVE have you been living under since 1996
What's the go with hooking this system up with a hydronic radiant floor heating and for DHW use? Greatly appreciated for guidance
The heater for a domestic hot water doesn't even come close to providing the heat for radiators or radiant floor heater.
@@gene8172 What if its only to heat a small sunroom why hydronic heat? Its only about 260 Sq feet
@@maow333 Hot water heater won’t put out enough heat, isn’t designed for heating and will use too much energy and will fail quickly.
how many sq feet is needed in the space where the heat pump/hot water heater is installed? you haven't commented on that yet.
1,000 square feet
Unless you have a louvered door.
@@Penfold8 what happens if you don’t have 1000 ft.² and you install this? I really want to one but my basements only 600 ft.².
@@Raptors0524 It isn't 1,000 square feet, it is 1,000 CUBIC feet. Your 600 sq ft is more than plenty.
Only way I see this working is if your water heater is in your garage. If it's in the heated basement like we have, now I'm running my HVAC to bring heat into the house for the heat pump on the water heater to absorb to put into the water, making the basement cold forcing my HVAC to run more often.
These can be ducted outside to negate that. In addition, you can use a valved duct. In the summertime, you can close the valve which causes the air exhaust to cool your basement. In the winter, you open the duct valve which runs off air exhaust to outside so you don't have any negative consequence.
Can the hot water(that's inside of the tank) be acceptable when the power is out?
Yes
So why do water heaters not need a neutral? other than the ground.
Timo606 you figure out your question, why not do research.
@@flybyairplane3528 If you don't want to answer him why not just skip?
Any idea what these cost?
You couldn’t turn it on so we could hear the noise level?
Why not run the condensate line out the house? The water heater isn't that far awy from the outside wall, but instead now must add another point of failure in that condensate pump and more unattractive tubing.
Why the heck would a incoming cold water line need a vacuum breaker on a water heater? When would that ever be used to break any kind of vacuum? Because when i fill a empty water heater i open a fixture thats the farthest away and turn on the water until the air gets pushed out and cold water is flowing through both the hot and cold pipes then shut the fixture off and wait for the water heater to do its thing.. but even if you just left the air in the system and just turned the cold supply on then burped the system later, when would a vacuum be formed ever on an open or closed system?
That wiring should be BX.
Where we live it's against the code to have a shutoff on the cold and the hot water side of a hot water tank
What why
I thought the hot line cant have a shutoff valve.
How do you make the wire connection using a 10-2 wire between this heat pump water heater and a 30 amp breaker? Thanks.
You need a double pole 30A breaker
Black to black. White to red(black tape on white) green to green(ground). 30 amp single phase double pole breaker. Black on one side white on the other on breaker. If your pipes are copper, Jumper ground from hot to cold #4awg wire and pipe clamps. If your not confident in electrical work hire an electrician. Hope this helps
how much cost one of those hybrid units in US ?
$1395.00 for Them 50 gallon unit
@@robertl.fallin7062 There might be utility rebates in your area. I got my AO Smith hybrid for $350 total after rebate
Electric water heater in ground contact!!! Unprotected branch wire connection.........
Why do I see them changing electric water heater and none have metal like mine and others I've seen?
How tall is he??
They failed to mention that because it is an air-conditioner, it's often better to install these in an unconditioned space. It will be providing cooling to the space it is in year round. Maybe they should have run the pipes out to the garage or vented the heat pump to the outside.
the simpler the system, the less hemorrhoids!
is thia old video played again
where is expansion tank?
Can I replace the nipples that come with my heater with street "L's" to give me a little tighter clearance? What about that plastic tube
inside the nipples? Would that still be required?
Those are heat traps. Look into that and your local code but most require a heat trap directly on the heater. They do make street elbo heat traps though, gotta order em but would be the way you’d likely need to go..
There are really problems now.... No discussion of needing lot a air, around heater. 2) heat pumps are coming with inlets and outlets ON THE SIDE OF HEATER!! and the areage home owner doesn't know that this needs a condensation line.
kenny play do you mean to tell me that Joe Homeowner is now buying HP units? I’d god forbid the read the instructions,,they would see there is a need for a condensate line !
Sounds like a very complicated solution to a very simple problem.
How do these affect your heating bill? Won't this suck heated air up and force your HVAC system to fill the void? I would think this would be a good option for southern climes where you could put the unit in a non-A/C space, but up north it seems like I'd just be robbing Peter to pay Paul.
You are supposed to put them in an unheated space.
Nobody And have your pipes freeze?
I use mainly wood heat so its a win.
one more thing. where's the expansion tank.
there is just the safety valve
Expansion tanks are not required everywhere. Where I am they are only required on systems with a back flow preventer and new construction (because all new construction requires a back flow preventer)
Merchants HVAC & Plumbing my gas WH does not have an expansion tank,,but my water system has one I put in,.My water press is 130 lbs, so I put in a PRV, with gauges on both sides then a whole house filter, with aguage on the outlet, them softener, then a food grade phosphate feeder, then that exp tank, w/takeoff to my RO SYSTEM to the kitchen & refrigerator.
None required where I live. City water pressure is 60psi, no PRV required, no backflow preventer required, thus no expansion tank needed.
expancion tanks are only nessesary if you have a CLOSED TANK SYSTEM where the water NEED space to expand!
on most water heaters the exess water get pusd back in to the inlet pipe as soon as the pressure in the tank gets higher than the water pressure in to the house.
but i have seen plases where they add airpressure-expansion tanks on the inlet pipe,, but thats mostly to make say a water pumps work easyer so it dont get so ROUGH STARTS-STOPS EVERY TIME SOMONE SAY TAP A CUP OF WATER! hehe
that was they can say set the pump to start for example 1 bar and build up pressure to 3 bar, and becouse of the tanks you can use a few gallons before the pump have to start-stop AGAIN
If you are removing a resistance-type water heater, and just "dropping" in a heat-pump type can the homeowner do it and get the meaty rebate? Or must I pay someone a few hundred dollars an hour (or more) to "Professionally" install it? Don't get me wrong, I respect code but this is not rocket-science and a homeowner ought to be able to do this themselves and get the rebate.
Ended too soon and wanted to hear how much noise it makes.
Yes save , but the maintenance for the ac unit 😳
Is that Dolf Lundgren
Eddie Haskell. ;)
You'll never see electric utilities bring those in, they'd lose too much money on your hydro bill.
Who cares if they do or not when you have the freedom to buy it yourself
MarioDragon I live in an apartment with it's own water heater. It's up to the landlord not me.
Charles Damery You don't own your residence so that's kind of obvious
MarioDragon I looked up online, in Canada, where I live, only Home Depot sells this type of water heater an it goes for $ 2,998, so with taxes where I live in New Brunswick it would come to $ 3,387.74 without installation. If I'm renting, would I pay this much for a water heat when they are supplied by the electric utility ? I don't think so.
Charles Damery I've lost all meaning you're trying to convey anymore. First you blame utility companies for not wanting to make less money, then you say you don't want it because it won't cost less. Make up your mind next time.
These cost twice as much + higher cost of installation. They may not last any longer than a conventional water heater and they are really expensive to repair.
Yep. I want one but I am concerned about all you mentioned
I thought you had to put it in a room with at least 1000 cubic feet. that room looks pretty small.
10x10=100, 100x10=1000.
is this old
This oversimplifies the issues if going to a hybrid unit.
Welcome to the future, now you have to change the air filter on your water heater.
Or repair the heat pump, aka compressor and evaporator sometime down the line...
It's illegal to have shot off valve on hot water pipe especially without expansion tank
V T where is that where it is ‘illegal ‘? There are various codes in different places., usually the greatest codes are NYC, BOSTON, CHICAGO, ! Years ago I saw in a sears catalog, where there were only 2 sizes available to 1 of the Carolinas, where the T&P valve was ALREADY installed,,as there were KNOWN ASSHOLES there after an accident, where some DUMMY installed one with a PLUG INSTALLED where the T & P was to go, gee what the HELL could go wrong !
Electric heating elements get caked with calcium and don't work very well. With the new heat pump a heating coil does the job of the heating element. Ummm... what stops the heating coil from getting caked with calcium too?
you're mom
23lkjdfjsdlfj The heat pump refrigerant coils are not immersed in the water like the heating elements are they are attached physically to the exterior of the tank before the insulation is put on.
@@mainelyelectric Thanks Ben!
That's just dumb. You lose all savings as soon as that thing breaks. You can replace all elements and thermostats on a conventional water for around $30. When that compressor goes out it will be more than the cost of a new water heater to fix.
I do not think you are right. Look at the energy label on your water heater.
exposed romex in a finished laundry room? looks pretty unprofessional.
first off GE is the worst on the market. but then again where does the unlicensed plumber shop! no other than Home Depot lol. And when you take the disconnect out it doesn't necessarily mean you killed the power. You don't know if someone before you rigged it. number one lesson. use a tester.
The video is obviously edited, this isn't a "replace your boiler for dummies", there's no need to show the tester.
I'm pretty sure they figure out the breaker and everything else in the preinspection and I'm also sure the owner had his say over the brand of the boiler to use since he's the one footing the bill.
I've shocked my self on 120 and 240 plenty of times, I am starting to think it is over exaggerated the danger of it, shit barely even hurt.
There are more people killed with 120 volt than with higher voltage. What shock does is it makes your heart start fibrillating and not pump blood. If there is no one close by to give you CPR, you are going to die. How much you are shocked is determined by how well you are grounded. It's the amperage that kill you. It is not the voltage. Steve Green
Merchants HVAC & Plumbing how did GE come into their subject? Was never aware that they made one,BOSCH, RHEEM, NOW AO.SMITH.
haha - notice they did not TURN IT ON- they don want you to know how noisy these are !!
Stay away from the ge hybrid. Broken after 1 year. Broken evaporator
Ian Cunningham can GE replace it with a newer model?
Adnan Kazim Why Ge ? They DO NOT make those units, BTW, do you know whom now owns GE appliances ? the CHINESE COMPANY. HIAER,
Helluva Dip what failed on the ‘evaporator ?
Installed my GE heat pump water heater 9 yrs ago. Just now required service for the first time.
@@jameslippert3523 what is your estimated savings per year?
So all it's doing is sucking the heat out of the house that you produce in winter... cooling your house down and raising your heating bill.
I hope he puts his bitcoin mining operation in the same room. He can use the cold air from the evaporator coil to cool the room.
This turned me off at the end... condensate pumps are a pain. They are cheap and I found they fail within 5 years. Also the air filter is another thing to maintain and I have enough maintenance right now. I'm sticking with my 80 gallon Energy Smart electric heater that only costs about $400 a year to run. With 80 gallons we have never run out of hot water.
80 gallons, how the hell big is your family? that should supply an army
These hybrid water heaters only cost about $110 a year to run
Looks far too complex for long term reliability. I would just use a timer on an conventional water heater or go tankless.
What a crappy looking install. Lol
I was thinking the same thing!
Shut up you bitches 😡
Looked good to me. I would not foot the bill to run that condensate line any other way in a basement.
DaBuick so what would you do with that condensate line?
Over complicated system prone to multiple failures. I'd rather have a basic electric unit even if it costs more to operate.
I was on board with this water heater at first, PUD offering a 500 something or the other on it and the water heaters are 699 here so it made sense, but then I saw him run that clear line and was like nope.avi I don't got a floor drain my drain is connected right to a pipe from the water heater to outside.
i can't stand kevin!!!