How to install a main breaker panel in a garage. - Square D Homeline 100 Amp Main Breaker
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- čas přidán 7. 10. 2018
- I install a Square D homeline main breaker panel in my newly built garage/pole barn. The Square D Homeline 100 Amp main breaker panel was the best value for dollars per circuit in my opinion.
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It's a sub panel and you need a ground buss. Your neutrals and grounds need to be separated. Your green wire is your equipment ground. The ground and neutral will tie together on neutral bar at main panel. I am an electrical contractor in Kansas. Now am 71 semi retired but still do some electrical contracting. Just did a house with 3 sub panels all required 4 wires. They go back to main panel and ground and neutral tie together on neutral buss. Main panels your allowed to put grounds and neutrals together but not in a sun panel. You also do not use the bonding screw in your sub panel. Everything ties back at the main, it's called center point grounding. It has to do with safety and ground fault currents. Hope that helps.
And the Ground rods and Noalox for the aluminum conductor ends.
You are correct for a sub panel, but he showed that this is coming from a meter outside the building, so the box needs to have neutral and ground bonded together.
Then why are there 4 wires coming in? Maybe just a simple mistake?
I'm a DIY-er too, and I've spent a lot of time trying to figure out how to get this right.
Currently looking at my new 100 Amp Square D sub panel, trying to figure out how to separate ground & neutral, or bolt on a new bar for ground or neutral - or buy a more appropriate panel...
The idea is that the grounding conductor is only meant to carry current during a fault. If neutral and ground are bonded beyond the main connection to supply, the system will be using your ground fault system to carry the current imbalance between your two 120v legs from wherever you have it bonded. You want to avoid treating it like a second neutral. Its only purpose is to provide a low resistance path back to the transformer so that enough current can be dumped through a breaker to flip it during a fault like if a hot wire comes loose and makes contact with your clothes dryer.
If the grounding system is being treated like a neutral and it’s bonded at a sub panel, that allows the neutral current to find any route back to the transformer that is attached to the grounding system, which could potentially be you if you touch the wrong things.
Simple answer Rob, cost. It looks as if he is using 2-2-2-4 mobile home service wire. When using this the ground (green) is either cut off or left loose in box. I just did my shop using this wire and saved $5.00 foot vs 4/0 @@robmurray5784
I put in a separate meter panel for my pole structure, and fed it with 4/0 cable. The panel I used was a 200 amp panel with room for 60 smaller breakers. The 4/0 wires are hard to work with! I put the panel "upside down" so the wires did not have to be run up the side of the panel (the wires are fed from the bottom like yours) and this made it easier to attach the wires since the main breaker was at the bottom.
Thanks for the video!
I was wondering about this. Thanks for your comment, I am going to put mine upside down too.
Its actually in the code but for some reason people dont stress it.
respectfully submitted, thanks for your constructive comment, he did nice workmanship anyway thanks guys
I just got this box for my pole barn thanks for the video!
My man!!! I follow your homebrew channel already. I was just looking up what size panel I should install for my brewery upgrade, and here I find you! The man that does it all haha.
Lol thanks man!
Ditto. I’m looking to add a panel in my garage so I can have a 240v drop to run the Anvil Brewing system. Jack of all Trades I guess!
I love it need one of these panel in my barn
I always install and plan a Double Pole breaker at the top right side closest to the main breaker to anticipate a future generator install. I like to prewire it to my outside generator inlet box early (now) while the box is empty, you will be glad you did, when it is time for the generator.
Thank you very much for sharing this information
I follow you on your brewing channel. Interesting stuff and it's applicable to me as I intend to build a barn/carriage-house/MIL-house in a couple years. Thanks for sharing.
Awesome Jared! Good to have you over here! The content is just getting started. I will still be doing the other channel as well. Just thought if I could help someone out in the process of this build why not do it!! 👍🛠
@Build IT With Brian
But how fo you secure the panel itself to the wall/OSB sheet? You didn't show that to us.
Power circuit boxes and fuses wow!
I am replacing a sub panel that I want to hookup a generator to and have have to replace the sub panel as there is no main shutoff. Need to put a panel with a main shutoff so I can install an interlock switch to make it compliant for when I need generator so this helped explain somewhat on how to rewire a panel.
Thank you...I did learn some rule electrical from you .
Nice thanks for helping me out!!!!
Thank you so much Brian!
From the top, he said he was not a licensed electrician, therefore, don't criticize because he make a video and you pros didn't. Some of us appreciate guys like this who can help people save some money, and we can check our local codes for free. This is not something we need a college degree to do, just get the local advise from a pro and code. Do it yourself, and if you burn you own house down, You own it. Good work Brian.
put 4 screws and flat larger washers to secure the panel, keep it strong-good video!
Should be number 14 screws between 1 and 3 inches in length
Saw when you put the connector on the bottom,the lock nut was cross threaded, then the magic of editing it was straight
I definitely agree you need to install a ground wire to the ground bus bar (which is not installed) a ground wire from the ground rods in the ground or a ground wire from the main panel to the sub panel. Without a good ground wire, you are at risk for a shock or a leakage of voltage in the panel where you don't want it to be.
I can see the comments. and to many people gonna say the things they don't do it.....thank i appreciate your help...
Brian - you did a great, organized vidoe. Thank you!
Awsome....thanks very much...i got the answer i needed...
Good Work keep it coming
Thanks!
Brian you did a great job i just brought this panel at lowes keep up the good work bro...
Noalox/Penetrox/Anti-Oxidant would be helpful on the feeder wire connection to the lugs.
Great video
GREAT STUFF TKS FOR DOING A GOOD JOB DON'T FOR GET THE OXIDE. ONLY FOR ALUMIMUM WIRE.
My thoughts exactly.
Thanks so much...i liked how you did the connection....
great job.
Neutral feed should have white electrical tape around it's insulation/jacket at the point of termination. Also stranded wires should be tightened, wiggled, and tightened again several times to ensure a good fire-free installation. You don't want to over tighten the wires, just gently(at the torque spec), squish/flatten the strands out.
Excelente Thank You
Very very good
good job
My pet peeve *hurr-duh-durr* are the comments. Dude, you did a great job w/your disclaimer. You did a great job describing your process. I topped by just to see the HOM2040M100PC bc it's on sale for $69 but logged in just to leave a good comment. These youtube electricians should be out working. It's amazing the number of obviously licensed electricians w/nothing better to do but sit around and watch your videos recreationally.
Thanks!
Nice, and Sefty Sir
All aluminum conductors must have anti-oxidation compound as per NEC. You did not say if your green bonding screw was removed or not (very important to remove it in a sub panel). Only your main service panel (the first distribution panel where your utility feed come into) can have this bonding screw installed. The bonding screw in every downstream sub panel from the main service panel MUST BE REMOVED. You must have a ground wire (usually #6 or greater) run from the main service panel to every sub panel.
ALSO You definitely need to use 4 wires, 1 neutral, 2 hots and a ground wire. That panel is a electrical hazard without a ground wire. I'm going to assume that the panel outside that you pictured in your video that your getting your power from is also a sub panel. In the outside panel you correctly identified the 3 current carrying conductors, 2 hots and a neutral, but there should also be a ground bar inside it with a #6 ground wire on it (or the green bonding screw installed if its your main service panel) and you have to tie that ground bar to the ground bar in the new panel with #6 or greater ground wire.
I dont get ppl like this posting and giving bad advice as to how to do something, do the research and make sure things comply with NEC codes
@@AM1015-Enlighten us whats wrong with what I said?
Yes in the 70ds don’t needed unless your in Florida
Yes, looks like aluminum (not copper as he said)
Just letting you know with aluminum conductors need a oxidizing agent on then such as nolox which prevents corrosion overtime
Anti oxidation is not required by NEC . Panel and breaker termination points are rated for copper or aluminum, therefore no oxidation between dissimilar metals.
Thanks for this video. Please show the video of it connecting into the meter can
thanks, I am latinamerican.- your english is very understable for me.
Good video
Yes, thank you
Thank you for the disclaimer! Means a lot to the pros ^^
Thanks for sharing your knowledge very informative, it
inspired me to focus more making electrical video
I like I like what you showed it was simple it was easy and you are a good teacher😍🤪🤯😵🙈👨🏫👨💼🙏
Thanks!! 👍
It isn't grounded/bonded so it is dangerous. If there was a ground fault, the panel could become energized and the breaker wouldn't trip.
As an electrical engineer that worked over 30 years designing electrical systems for contractors, I have a few comments. The use of #2 Al for a 100 ampere service would be acceptable for a dwelling unit. This is not a dwelling unit so that table in the NEC can not be used. #2 is rated at 90 amps at 75 deg C. Terminals are rated at 75 deg, so 90 deg C column may not be used. Should have been #1. Since this is a "Service Entrance Panel" (I.E. coming from utility meter) there should be no ground in the conduit. You are required to Earth Ground ALL service entrance panels at the location of the main. Since you probably have no footing or metal pipe water entrance you are stuck with ground rods and be 25 ohms or less resistance. No meter to check, no problem, add second groundrod and done. For those saying add ground bar, absolutely not. That is for sub-panels only. The reason I commented is many people have viewed this and have gotten incorrect information not just from the video. Respectfully Submitted!
+Kevin Coop Thank you so much for stopping by, your remarks clarified many issues. I am still confused about the ground for the utility meter. I assume the metal frame of the service meter is never bonded to the neutral for the transformer, in the interest of safety (if a tree were to take out the neutral between poles, a neighbor's return neutral voltage might appear at your service entrance frame, looking for an easier path back to the neutral lug of the transformer). Correct? If there is no ground wire in the conduit from main to meter, how is the meter case grounded? If it is a distance from each building, does the meter require its own set of ground rods? I've seen installations where the ground from an adjacent main panel is fed back to the meter to ground the metal frame of the meter, together with a conduit bonding nipple if metallic conduit is used. When I watched this I wondered if the author actually does have a main panel that we didn't see, right beside the service entrance. If so, then bonding of neutral to ground and ground rods would happen at that main panel. Then the panel shown in the video would be a max 90A subpanel (not a dwelling unit), requiring separation of neutral and ground, and separate ground rods (separate building), and an insulated ground leading through conduit back to the main panel. Correct?
spelunkerd The meter socket may be required by the utility to have a separate ground conductor installed. Since the neutral is connected to the can inside the meter socket, if there is a short circuit, it will go back to the transformer on the neutral. Not sure what you were saying about the neighbors losing its neutral. Unless they are on the same transformer on has nothing to do with the other. To be clear, grounding electrode conductors and electrodes like ground rods have nothing to do with short circuits being cleared. You mentioned that if it was not a service how it would be connected. I believe your statements were all correct. To use that wire size, it would have to have 90 ampere over current device. NEC has waffled on one building feeding another for many years! I believe that another ground at the second building is still current method.
@@KevinCoop1 He can put a 90 Amp Breaker in the main and the 100 amp would be just considered a disconnect...
D M Yes he could put a 90 amp sub-feed breaker in the main panel. That would make the overcurrent protection correct.
If there's a main breaker in the utility meter, and it looks like there is, he is correct in bringing an egc from the exterior meter base to the interior SUB panel, and separating installing a separate ground bar. He wired that panel up like it is the main disconnect, but didn't bond grounded and grounding conductors in the enclosure. Very unsafe.
Why was a green green wire installed if it wasn't meant to be used?... answer...because the utility guys who set the meter and ran the supply conductors for him knew what they doing, intending on him using the provided grounding conductor, and he doesnt. Its cool that you're trying to make informative videos, but this is basically the blind leading the blind. Wire your own outlets and lights. Leave things that include terms like ungrounded, grounded, and grounding to the pros.
The reason the conductors don't fit the above engineers calculations is because they are supplied by the utility, and the utility can run whatever size they want.
All Aluminum connections should have dielectric grease applied to them. I use a product called NOALOX. I am not sure what you have at the transformer. It looked like a meter/main combo. If that is the case then that would serve as your "first means of disconnect". At that point your grounds and neutrals should come together then just one neutral should go back to the transformer. But, inside that box by the transformer there should be a ground termination and a bonding screw that bond the neutral to the can and bring your grounds and neutrals together. That green ground wire in your 2-2-2-4 should have a terminal to attach to inside the meter/main by the transformer as well as a ground lug on your ground bar inside your new 100a panel. Hope this helps. If I am incorrect about what you have by the transformer then your new 100A panel servers as your first means of disconnect and you did the correct thing with the ground wire by folding it back but there was no mention of a bonding screw which is what ties your neutral bar to the box and effectively the ground. *EC state of FL*
Hey! If you get zapped you may get super powers! Take the chance and get back to me. 😉 Good stuff Brian. Cheers!
Haha I'll get back to you on that.. Lol
Believe me, his superpower is... "Not getting zapped"
I don't know where you are, but here in Minnesota, you need to ground the panel separately from the feed. That means a grounding wire (#6 copper is fine) that goes either to nearby grounded plumbing or to an exterior grounding rod, 8-feet long copper. In a garage, that almost certainly means a grounding rod driven into the ground.
How much does that cost
Like Jerry Morris said. Ground and neutral separated for a sub panel. Ground rod for sub panel in detached building. Neutral & ground bonded only at first point of disconnect
My detached garage has a subpanel. In feed is 220 with red, black, white and ground. Is it normal to have voltage between the ground and either of the 120 feeds? I never located a ground rod installed. I will add one.
My pet peeve other than not connecting the ground. Even if you think power is off don't connect a breaker while it is installed into the box. Check your length first, then pull that breaker out of the box connect your ground and your neutrals into separate buss bars then with the breaker out connect you hots to the breaker. Once that is done put some rubber insulated gloves on your hands and press the breaker in the panel with the switch in the off position. You will be less lickley to to touch the hot buss bar at the same time while installing the other wires and creating a circut. Plus your hands are wet you can be just inches from the panel and have a jump or arc, plus you don't know if you or someone else wired something else wrong down the line. Just remember even low voltage wires can cause heart arithmia or make your heart start beating wrong if you get electrocuted. Be safe
Muy bien gracias
👍👍👍thanks
Like.the.job
Brian,. Can you show your connections at the main meter panel
Good job for not putting the Shitte grease on the lugs its not NEC violation I never put anti oxide on the every Panel that I install
Nice to see Mario Batali branching out into other fields...
Just kidding - great vid!
You just killed me omfg
Now that's a big kitchen
if it is the main breaker panel, you should use a main bonding jumper to link the busbars to the box so the box is grounded. Always use nolax anti-oxidation on aluminum or any two different material conductors. I believe the box outside, the one with a meter is the main panel that makes your D box a secondary. check code book for taping rules, distance, side of the conductors, how deep you should dig, if you need to run conduits or PVC, most importantly, don't forget to call an inspector cuz the insurance will not likely to pay anything if there is not an inspection if something goes wrong.
Your right on everything except the insurance. Insurance would still have to pay no matter what . It is there to cover incompetence also . The insurance company would have no choice. If you car has bald tires you blow one out and run into a house they still have to pay same goes for home owners and industrial insurance. In many areas the county would require a licensed contractor and would not sign it off even if it were done correctly if you do it yourself
Good video but there is a few things I want to say.
First this isn’t a big deal but you should mark your neutral wire with white tape and your second hot wire with red tape.
Second your ground (the green wire) should be connected to the ground bar in the panel. To a ground rod out side.
Third because you have aluminum wire you have to put the jelly on it to keep it from corroding and oxidation because when that happens you will have trouble.
Other than that really good video. And have a good day.
Phil Mccrevasse thank you I couldn’t remember what the name of it is
I believe code is 2 ground rods 6ft apart. And I also believe a ground buss bar is required because it's a sub panel used without bonding screw. Definitely want to use an antioxidant paste. And I'm not sure if required but may need a grounding strap to ground building too. I'm about to install the same panel on my new garage👍
you need to add nolox to the aluminum conductors to prevent oxidation.. with said oxidation its a serious fire hazard so that no lox is a must
You are so correct. I’m a licensed electrician. Don’t forget the nolox on aluminum. Don’t need it on copper. It’s NAT electric code..
@@wasj01 it is not NEC , if it is what section give article.
Make sure to use anti ox on your big connections so they don’t corrode!
Good
I have a 10X16 shed and will get a 100AMP circuit box with 6 space 12 circuit indoor surface mount with cover. I want to have 2 overhead lights and 3 electrical outlets 120 volts and a small hard wired space heater.
Besides the noox and expansion pipe, you also should have two grounding rods / ufer ground using 6 AWG coper...
This is why people that aren’t licensed electricians should be guiding people on how to install equipment that can kill someone.
Hi great video ,I did myself but now I need to fill it up the comed form so I could get service in my house, I'll need help
Very interesting stuff. Something I don't know much about is electrical......Take care, Bluefin.
No worries that's what they make electricians for LOL 👍
Great video! Every EE I know would recommend wire strippers vs using a box knife - even the gentle-est application can score the cable - humble suggestion - great video - very helpful - would love to see how the final product looks! Final barn usage
I am a EE and sadly a lot of them don't know how to do real world applications. Best friend is Ivy League Masters in EE and asks me about his house wiring. He does some amazing DSP math though.
Did you install a ground rod and grounding electrode conductor?
Again, Brian, I know that you checking the comments on this video. Please answer some questions! Is there a main circuit breaker outside at the meter location? Did you connect the 4 th conductor to ground lug outside the shed? Did you remove the neutral to ground bond in the shed? Did you drive a ground rod at the meter, shed, or both? These answers would be greatly appreciated!!!!!
Kevin, sorry for the delay I had not checked the comments for a little while. I am going to be doing an updated video on this one.
Questions: 1 - Yes there is a main breaker out at the meter base. (Technically that would make this a sub panel.)
2 - No i did not connect the 4th wire to any sort of ground rod
3 - The neutral to ground bond screw is in place in the panel in the shed
4 - There is a ground rod at the meter base and the ground wire in the meter base is connected to, which my ground wire is connected to as well.
Extra comment. I have added a couple of things that will be part of the updated video. I did add a dedicated ground wire 6Ga to a grounding rod outside of the barn. I also added some "No ox" for corrosion protection on the wires. Lastly I added a separate ground bar for all the ground wires in the panel. I hope that helps answer your questions sorry for the delay.
AGAIN.. Codes in different places vary and you should consult your codes in your area when doing any electrical work. I do not have any codes or inspectors out in the country where I live. So there may be some of the things that will not pass an inspection in some areas and be fine in others.
Build IT With Brian Thank you very much for your response!!! Before you make an updated video, please think about the following comments.
1. Agreed, with main breaker outside then this is a sub panel in this video.
2. The 4 th conductor from the exterior main panel to the sub panel in video is required. Should be connected to ground / neutral exterior and added ground bar in the sub panel. This is an equipment ground.
3. The neutral to ground bonding screw in the sub panel should be removed. Should only exist at the service main.
4. Ground rod at meter and main panel exterior is correct.
5. The sub panel should not have a Grounding Electrode Conductor or Grounding Electrode (ground rod) connected to it. These belong only at the service main location exterior. Not to be duplicated.
All of my comments are in compliance with all electrical codes within the past 35 years I have been designing electrical systems.
Feel free to ask any questions you have about what I said or why the code requires them this way. I would be happy to help you understand. Respectfully, Kevin
Thanks for the info!
With respect. You need to have an expansion fitting on your nonmetallic conduit. With a Square D home line panel you need to add an additional separate grounding bus bar to terminate your number four grounding wire and a 8 foot ground rod with number six copper
Also did not put any noalox on before tightening wire
I'll try to be polite Brain, your installation is not in compliance with the National Electrical Code and your advice could hurt people and harm property.
Using NEC 352 and assuming that PVC is 4' long above grade, a temperature range grater than 150° would need an expansion joint. So an expansion joint probably isn't needed.
Michael, you are correct about needing a grounding electrode system. Ground rods, he probably needs two, would satisfy 240 Part III. Also need to bond the system.
Doesn't technically need noalox unless he's by water as he really shouldn't have to worry about oxidation... and even then... Noalox isn't "really" a requirement...
@@mikeyp7069 Anti seize isn't required but why take the chance. Its SOP.
MIchael, I am no electrician however I was under the impression you do not need a ground rod if you are running a sub panel. I read that it could be dangerous. Am I not understanding something ?
Nice work. How about you coming by my garage and install a 240V line in my breaker panel so I can begin electric brewing like you, Brian? LOL
Haha!! If you were closer.. We would do it!! Maybe a road trip... Short Circuited Brewers, Build it with Brian, and Beer and BBQ by Larry, triple collab!! Lol
If you think thats nice work , you have got to be joking.
I believe if you can't visually see the main panel, you need a separate sub-panel disconnect . Brian, you may need another disconnect.
Really wanted to see how you got that pvc in with the panel installed already
James iPad easy, take the 3-4 screws out the panel and put it back
@@FiggaDaKID n
is the box bonded,so you can use the same buzz bar for neutral and ground?great video
Appreciate your time of doing this video. My own effort will be a little harder by hooking my new breaker box to a installed meter/main breaker box on a pedestal that is a 200 Amp at the pedestal and I am using a 200 Amp breaker box in my house. I'll cut power off before I hook up my # 4 wires inside the pedestal box.....and a thank you to some of the added comments about the neutral and grounds coming together. I also visually saw the earth ground rod at the pedestal and connection.
I didn't install one at my house breaker box. I can still add that.
Even though the disclaimer. You still need a torque screwdriver for the main wire and circuits.
You forgot something in there, you should be using dielectric grease on the mains and the neutral being fed into the box, helps prevent corrosion, that exceeding important in environments that are harsh, non living spaces.
For aluminum conductor you need anticorrosion compound of some sort
May have already been pointed out (I didn't scroll through all comments) but at 9:28 you say: "the neutral and ground would go into there". Neutral and ground do not both go into the neutral bar. Neutral and ground must be separated in a subpanel.
100% correct!!!
please explain if you only have a hot nutral and a ground how the breakers work
Hi . If I add a 100 amp sub panel , I need 2 of the 100amp breaker one for the main panel and one for sub right ?
You need to put on noalox for corrosion on the aluminum wires.
My only suggestion is to land the ends of those wires onto the plywood to make the cutting easier and safer.
Good tip. And no-lox I added it later.
I have an old fuse box in my garage that I'm replacing. My feed is coming from the main panel in the house underground to the garage. Both my black hot wires are going to the main fuses but my white is going to an outside earth ground and my green is going to the neutral bar inside the box with all the white neutral wires from all the lines coming in going to the receptacles, lights etc. I feel like the green and white should be switched? I'm getting ready to change the old fuse box to a sub panel breaker box.
As a nonelectrician I find this to be an interesting project. I hope a fully qualified electrician will chime in to offer constructive advice to help all of us. I thought a separate ground rod was required for a separate building, but maybe you've got a rod in the adjacent meter area. Some here have remarked that neutral and ground need to be separated, but this looks like a main panel to me since you seem to be fed directly from the meter. If the meter is a distance from the panel, and neutral and ground are bonded at the meter, I don't know if bonding is allowed again at the main panel. It would be wise to keep ground wires all together in the panel. If you change your mind, separating ground from neutral may be as easy as unscrewing a bonding bar. Some have remarked that the wire is not correct for 100A, but from my reading of tables for 3 or fewer conductors, #2 Al is OK to 100A in the 90 deg C column. The question boils down to whether termination temperatures require derating of the wire. The terminal lugs at the panel should be fine to 90 deg, I'm not sure about the breaker, I don't know about the terminal at the meter but I would be surprised if derating is needed there. So, I will guess that when a qualified electrician stops by he will agree with the wire size for a 100 A panel feed. The professionally-installed subpanel in my home is #2 Al for a 100A feed. Whenever I do a project like this I get advice from the inspector before walking into possible trouble.
You cannot use the 90° C conductor rating because there are no panels like the one in the video that have 90° C terminals. Since the terminals are rated for 75° C then you must use the 75° C ampacity from NEC Table 310.15(B)(16). Depending on the installation there may be other code rules that apply but using a conductor at its 90° C ampacity is not permitted.
@@CHSSeniorproject Thanks, good point. As others have pointed out, in a dwelling unit this is OK under a different section of your NEC, but a barn/garage is not a dwelling unit. So the electrician who did my subpanel got away with #2Al, but its not allowed for a separate barn or garage. Most breakers I've looked at are 60/75, never labelled with 90 degC. I wonder why dwelling units have a separate set of tables....
Fully qualified electrician here, and here's my 2 cents. Ignore what brian has done because hes made it possible for every metal part of that building to become live in reference to ground. After you have ignored how he does it, promptly call a licensed electrician and pay him to do something you're not supposed to do without proper knowledge. Just my 2 cents
@@wm79198 I 100% agree with you!!
9:27 classic "I don't really know" hand wave
Brian, Please answer some questions! Is there a main circuit breaker outside at the meter location? Did you connect the 4 th conductor to ground lug outside the shed? Did you remove the neutral to ground bond in the shed? Did you drive a ground rod at the meter, shed, or both? These answers would be greatly appreciated!!!!!
Why? You said in your other comment you've been an electrical engineer for 30+ years. Don't you already know all these answers? So you just want him to answer your questions so you can tell him he's wrong? I don't know what it is about electrical but take a look at any of the thousand+ tutorials and there is always an army of commenters like you arguing over code saying things like "Wrong that has to be grounded" followed by another commenter saying "Actually it doesn't because X" followed by a third saying "Depends on code where you live/or either one works in this scenario". It's as tiresome as it is unhelpful.
Do you simply want to stroke your own ego by being an "armchair quarterback" to this guy's video? Or do you actually want to help people as you'll probably claim? If the latter is the case, then make your own video showing people how perfectly you would do it. THAT would actually be helpful, unlike the constant bickering on EVERY electrical video on CZcams from all the perfect experts out there. Of course if you do post your own tutorial, no matter how perfectly you do it, know that the comments will be filled with other CZcams master electricians telling you all the mistakes you've made.
Where can I buy the safety gards so when I''m working on a existing panel I can put them on and later remove them?
Can you talk about the main panel breaker I have no idea how they work, what they are called, how to get the right one for the pannel you have, if there are differences between: 120 n 240 panels, plug in neutral bar panels. Thank you
Also how do you tell what volatage is coming into your panel?
Spotted quite a few things here that bugged me.
1. Panel should have been installed with the main breaker at the bottom. No need to clutter up the gutters with your entrance wire, the panel is designed to be mounted in either orientation.
2. You must use no-ox compound on those aluminum conductors
3. Tighten the lugs to the manufacturer's specified torque values.
4. Lots of others have mentioned this, but you need to tie the subpanel ground to the main panel.
5. Ensure the bonding screw is not installed in the subpanel, neutral and ground cannot be bonded.
6. You need a ground electrode installed at this detached building.
Can you install those yellow safety clips while the power is on to the house or do I need to disconnect from outside.
Good video. But it would be nice if you explain and give an example of wiring the breakers.
What about no-ox for the aluminum service connections?
We haven't needed noalox scince the 70s. The wire isn't pure aluminum anymore and won't oxidize.
and the ground?
I don't know if it matters in residential,,, but check out (no locks electrical).. ps don't forget the bolt on the bottom of the panel. Lol good video
I got it bolt it down you just couldn't see at the end of the video. The no locks is that an anti seize compound to prevent galvanic corrosion?
@@BuildITWithBrian thats the stuff.. we use it every time we use aluminum wire.
@@Tetman-xx6tp OK I'll get some. I don't think know if it is as critical on indoor applications. I would rather err on the side of caution though. Thanks for the tip!! 👍🛠
@@BuildITWithBrian Aluminum ware was a bad idea especially in an outside metal building.
isn't Noalox not required now on new aluminum since the quality is much greater and also contains other alloys (AA8800)?
Hello just wanna know What happens to that green ground wire that you left in the box
He said in another comment that this is a sub panel coming from his main panel. Because of that the neutral and ground need to be separated in the sub panel he installed in this video. You do that by removing the grounding screw that is currently connecting the metal case to the neutral bar. Then you install a grounding bar which should be grounded using that green wire.
The green ground wire and the neutral leg should only be connected in the main panel. Not in any sub panel.
@@ecospider5 In Minnesota, subpanels need to be grounded via a #6 copper wire to a grounding rod. I don't know the rules anywhere else. I don't know where that green wire goes, though.
So in the sub panel the neutral wire is not connected to the sub panel metal box. So the metal box needs to be grounded so that if one of the power legs coming too and powering the sub panel shorts out with the panel box the breaker in the main box will trip. If the breaker in the main panel doesn’t trip then the sub panel metal frame will be energized.
The way a breaker trips is excess current going through it. Their has to be a low resistance path for that to happen. That green wire is the return of that low resistance circuit. The ground rod is the backup path but the resistance back to the panel is unknown so does not always trip the circuit.
Also the ground rod should be lower resistance than a person to ground. So if there is a short and the main feed breaker doesn’t trip when you touch the panel you will get shocked but most the energy is going through the ground rod to ground so hopefully you don’t die.
So the green wire is connected to the same location as the ground rod. Of course this is only in areas that require the ground rod as backup.
@@ecospider5 I'm not an electrician. If installing a 240-volt subpanel, you kind of wire the box like you would a 240-volt outlet. You have two hot lines and a neutral. But you also have a ground (4 wires in total) coming from the main in the house.
You run the two hots and neutral like you see in this video plus the ground to the case ground.
But you ALSO ground to a 8-foot grounding rod buried in the ground using #6 wire (or bigger).
This page: bloomingtonmn.gov/sites/default/files/handouts-b%26i-fffdetach.pdf
Is from the city of Bloomington, MN, and does a pretty decent job explaining it.
Yes that is how I understand it also. And it seems like the areas that require the ground rod as a backup have the right idea. But I can say not being an electrical engineer I really like to see articles like that because grounding issues can get really complicated.
What did you do with the ground?
You forgot 1major thing when using aluminum wire you must use noox on end of wire
I was just going to say that
Not required
The preventative oxidizing inhibitor is not NEC code, however it’s probably a good practice..
It’s code in my area@abraham
Can i put a 100 amp box in my shop and wire shop like you did but run the other end to a 100 amp breaker in the main panel at house,it has 200 amp service
With the panel you are showing, would you be able to use solar as the main power source?
So the Romex cable neutral goes with the ground same location
Nice but you missed a few things.
1. You needed anti-oxidation (Noalux) on all your aluminum conductor terminations. Torque the termination screws correctly as well.
2. On a sub panel your neutral and ground need to be seperated. You need to add a seperate ground terminal in the panel that is used for all your ground wire terminations. Ground and neutral wires should be seperated.
3. Ground rod should be added with a bare copper #4 wire.
4. Since it's open space Romex wire should not be used. Conduit or BX wire should be used to prevent damage to the wires.
5. A (TA) cap is required at the end of the conduit entering the panel with the service wires.
6. Add a GFCI service outlet on the plywood next to the panel.
It is actually a main panel, not a subpanel. In intro, he talks about the meter outside, etc.
@@r0osboz1 the meter panel is the main panel every panel after it is a sub panel and has to follow code
Probably no inspections but insurance might not cover if it burnt down from a lightning ⚡️ strike n no ground bus n ground rod