Installing a Sub Panel and 220V in the Garage | DIY/Electrical
Vložit
- čas přidán 21. 08. 2024
- DISCLAIMER: I am not an electrician, I learned how to do this from a ton of internet research. If you are an electrician and saw me do something crazy, can you please let me know so I don't burn down my house haha. One thing to note that keeps coming up in the comments, I put romex wire in metal conduit, that’s a big no no. Romex is its own kind of conduit used inside houses and putting it inside conduit could cause overheating and a fire. So don’t do it!
Welcome back to the workshop! My table saw runs on 220V but like most homes in America, 220V isn't standard. So I installed a sub panel with a 220V breaker to cover everything in the garage. It's pretty simple to do, and was actually way easier than I thought it would be. I'm not recommending you do this, but if you do attempt it and ever feel uncomfortable, please call an electrictian.
I have a website!
www.carolinacraftsman.net
Follow me on Instagram:
carolina_craftsman
Music:
www.epidemicsound.com
Pretty nice job. There are 3 major issues, that I can see, though. 1) By code, ALL garage outlets are to be GFCI protected and labeled as such (most GFCI outlets come with little sticker sheets just for this purpose); 2) Running Romex through conduit is, again, against code as the sheathed wires inside can build up enough heat to ignite. It's rare, but it has happened; and 3) The THHN wires need to be contained inside a protective conduit (choose one of several types allowed - metal conduit, PVC, flexible MC, etc.), even inside the wall. There should have been a 1.5" 90° elbow coming from the service panel to the LB on the outside of the sheetrock.
All of these really should be addressed, for safety reasons if nothing else. If, however, you ever try to sell your home, these issue may be discovered by a home inspector and you then will be required to have a licensed electrician come in to fix them before you can sell the house. This can (and probably will) cost you much moolah. Or, you can fix them yourself, now, and save all that moolah to throw yourself a congratulatory party with lots of alcohol for a job well done!😉
After note: Of course, I never read the OP's comments until after I've posted mine so, naturally, I missed the part where you already addressed the Romex inside a conduit part. Sorry 'bout that.🤪
Flex is your best friend if you can't bend conduit.
The electrician in me is going off the charts watching you do this. Always always start with your grounds first. Besides the other things. Always ground first at least.
I'm an electrician of 9 years. I've never heard that you are supposed to land the ground first. That's really interesting. Thank you for sharing that. Wearing vinyl gloves, or cotton gloves, and using insulated screwdrivers that cost $25 at Harbor Freight, as well as safety glasses, will indeed save your life.
If you're reading this, never work on electricity without safety glasses. The arc from sparking wires can damage your eyes. Wire can spring back and hit you in the eye when you're trying to route it above your head. Taping the ends of the wire so no copper is exposed is the best safety practice, because it prevents eye injuries, and accidental electric shock, or arcing wires.
If you have insulated gloves on, and eye protection, there's a very low chance of injury. Moist skin on your hands is the cause of most electrocution, but it's so easily prevented with insulated gloves. Many people get shocked, then get hurt in response to falling down, or losing their balance, or getting a puncture wound from the contact area.
Any type of glove is better than bare skin, and will prevent the burned flesh and puncture wound. But make sure you have dry gloves. Wet or sweaty gloves, or gloves will give a false sense of security.
Never wear gloves when using a power tool that spins. Spinning tools can suck your glove into the tool and cause significant damage. If you must wear gloves when sawing or drilling, you must be absolutely certain that no loose clothing is anywhere near the bit or cutter head.
I’m a electrician for 52 years. That’s the stupidest thing I ever heard !!
Where are you an electrician? Idiot Land?
@@tacx1 Im not an electrician but do a lot of my own work under supervision (electrician) .. Ive read running grounds before any others several times.. Mostly on social media sites.. I dont know whats safer buts it just an fyi that the procedure is out there..
When using a Forstner bit or holesaw to make an existing hole bigger, bore your hole into a piece of plywood first. Then hold the plywood up to the wall like a template.
Great idea!
Real tip here. Learned this only a year ago and it has really helped!
Fuck man I just wasted my god Damn time writing the same tip and then read yours.....u did it bettah too guy.... good friggin jqwb
In all seriousness, thank you! You have convinced me to hire an Electrician!
Only thing I would have done different, would have been to put offsets on your EMT so they would be parallel to the sub panel and your receptacles. Put EMT conduit straps between the panel and receptacles secured to the wall with some strut. This would keep your receptacle boxes more secure. The EMT angled like it is, you would have sharp metal edges cutting into your wires inside the coupling, especially since the way you cut the EMT and didn't deburr the ends after cutting.
I believe by code it needs to be secured 3 feet from a termination, and every ten feet after that. If the conduit is 2 feet or smaller it’s not needed.
You may have botched some things, but I learned a lot from the expert comments that will help me with an upcoming project. Thanks for being the punching bag :)
I'm happy for you and that it works but...you should have continued the plastic conduit all the way to the main panel. Could have cut a larger hole and connected the conduit directly to the main panel and then plastered or foam filled the opening around the drywall. Since you didn't, the 220 volt wires are exposed inside a wall which is against code. If rodents get into the wall they may chew on the electrical insulation. Or infestations could enter the main panel thru the conduit hole and build a nest or hive. This could lead to some serious issues.
Overall....nice job. I work for an electrical engineer. Your use of conduit and then running Romex through it is...redundant. Conduit by definition protects the wires running through it. It is much easier just to run individual pairs through it. And ...oh yeah....land your ground first. The conduit box you used is called and LB. This is certainly the most interesting application I have ever seen of an LB. You didn't light up...nice.
Thanks for watching! I didn’t know about the romex and conduit redundancy at the time but in hindsight it makes perfect sense lol
Thanks for the pointers. After reviewing several hours of DIY videos (such as yours), I was able to install my tesla gen 2 HWPC. It was a total pain in the..... but still saved me about 1k doing it myself. I'm going back to all the videos that I was able to get some key information and leaving a "thank you".
Awesome! That’s great to hear, and glad I was able to help out!
Rodney, just saw your post. I just finished a car charge install class with my local union and my big concern is "Are you wires big enough?" Not from the panel to the recepticle, but from the pole to your home.
With the level 2 chargers, you are adding about the equalivent of another stove/oven combo to your house (about 40-50 amps of draw on the service).
To size the service wires (home supply), the nec allows calculations of expected use to shrink the wire size for the house as built (pre-charger). For many, no problem, but for some, one guy in the class, his Tesla representative told him he needed to upgrade his service or get a second one for his car charger.
Yes, yours may be working fine, but slight overheating of the wires cause the insulation to degrade, like browning on the white ( neutral) wire. (Much harder to see if the wire is black.)
Also, a permit might have been needed. This could be important because insurance companies do not like to pay if there is "un-permitted work".
So, please take a second look and make sure everything is good and I have everything right. If not, please let me know.
Just a comment, if you have an existing hole in drywall, rather than using a Forstnerr bit, drill a hole in a 1/4 “ piece of hardboard and use it as a guide to drill properly sized hole with hole saw. The guide will keep the bit from walking in your material (drywall).
Thank you, that’s a great tip!
Conduit is required to be a continuous assembly in order to use individual conductors and that conduit must be fully assembled before installing any conduit/cables. He just runs them in a wall cavity which is not allowed with individual wires. Also, you may only splice in an LB if it is marked with the cubic inch volume on the conduit body. There is nothing wrong with putting NM cable in conduit. It is just harder to install and you need to still follow the rules of conduit fill.
Really cool video. The wood brace around the conduit looked really nice. At work we use something called a "toggle bolt."
A toggle bolt is used by drilling a 5/8" diameter hole in the drywall, and a metal piece with wings is inserted, and then when you begin tightening the bolt (usually a 1/4-20 size) the wings expand. Toggle bolts go into the hole, but then the wings spread out to 2" wide behind the hole, so you effectively have a 2" nut behind the drywall.
A toggle bolt is the only thing worth using when supporting anything large on drywall. If you are supporting very light conduit, then you can use metal drywall anchors. Pre drill the drywall with a 3/16" bit to make the drywall anchors work better, and seat into the drywall properly.
FYI. Never use the expanding plastic anchors that are 1/4" in diameter, as these are only good in plaster, concrete, stucco or rock that is very hard and strong. Drywall is too soft for expanding anchors, and they will be nothing more than a scam.
“I’d be lying if I said I wasn’t scared about that” - while wielding an angle grinder with one hand 😂🎉
Pretty good job, just 2 things that I noticed.
1. How did you get the THHN wires from the main panel and into the LB fitting? You cannot have individual THHN conductors installed without a protective covering such as conduit. You would have needed a right angle connector coming out of the bottom of the box and into the LB.
2. It would have been good in the video if you made sure to mention that the green bonding screw in the subpanel MUST be removed so that the Grounded conductor (neutral) and the Ground conductor are ONLY connected electrically at the Main Panel.
Subject to your local electrical inspector, the aluminum wire no longer requires an anti-oxidation gel. This is a requirement from the early days of aluminum wire because that wire was pretty much pure aluminum back then. Aluminum wire that is sold nowadays, is an alloy that does not have the oxidation issues of the older wire. It hurts nothing to use the anti-oxide gel, it just isn't needed.
Thanks for watching and for the tips, all of those are great advice
Thanks John, I’m considering this myself.
Not sure there was a bonding screw as he had to separately install the grounding bar.
A couple things to note. When running insulated wire from server panel to sub panel (or anything for that matter) it is proper to use one black and one red wire to symbolize hot wires, white for neutral wire, and green for ground.
Second: For future reference, DONT DONT DONT run Romex inside conduit. Romex is a form of conduit used inside house walls. Conduit (metal or PVC) is used for exterior, as you done properly, but you put insulated wires in verse romex. When adding romex inside conduit, you are increasing heat build up which in turn can cause overheating and possible fire hazard. Its dangerous and more expensive. Other than that, you did fine.
Thanks for watching, and thank you for the tips! The only cable they had that was the right gauge for the sub panel was all black or black with a white stripe. I used all black for both the hot wires and the white stripe for the neutral. Is that appropriate or do I need to find a red and white wire? Not putting romex in the conduit is a great tip that’s not very intuitive for non electricians lol, thank you!
Bump
@@CarolinaCraftsman Not an electrician but am doing a similar job with similar research. For the hots, 2 black wires is fine. White for neutral, or an indicating strip, is required. Green for ground is good as you did. See www.thespruce.com/electrical-wire-color-coding-1152863. As for romex in conduit, you are allowed to do it, especially if there's just one cable in the conduit, but the rules are fairly strict. Generally it's mostly done when additional physical protection is required. Take a look at NEC 2020 sec 334.15(B) which describes how NM cable may be protected. It specifically lists using conduit for that purpose.
The neutral line running to my sub panel has a white stripe on it, but this is good advice for any future diyers, I should have brought up color coding in my video. Thanks for the tip about romex, I’ll definitely check out that NEC section
@@CarolinaCraftsman code only talks about what’s required for neutral and for the ground but doesn’t say much for the what the hots should be, having both black is fine but what you could do is identify one of the hots with red electrical tape just for identification purposes. I’m just in my first year of trade school though so take that with a grain of salt lol
Wiring a sub panel is basically a piece of cake. Doing the install up to code is the hard part. This one is not up to code, even though it looks ok from across the room. Hint: Removing some sheetrock and flushing everything into the wall would have been less work because no conduit would be needed. Trading the conduit for a piece of drywall might actually be cheaper. Only difference in the whole job would be the dry time for compound and paint. Also, if you bother to put in a sub panel you might as well pop the extra $20 for something with a half dozen extra spaces for future expansion.
Yup that’s what I figured out from this video lol. I like the look of it mounted on the wall with the conduit, it feels more industrial haha, but I definitely would have knocked out the drywall and run the conduit correctly to the main panel if I made another video
@@CarolinaCraftsman ... if you ran the wire behind the drywall you could have used SER cable and no conduit for the feed as well.
For someone who is not an electrician I think you did a hell of a job . Nice work
as someone who is not qualified to evaluate the quality of your comment, I think it was a good comment
For future reference, using NM (Romex) in conduit is not illegal (except for wet locations) but not advised due to the Romex trapping heat.
Oh cool, thank you!
Byron Thomas I believe that there have been some changes to this in newer versions of NEC.
@@KevinCoop1 as long as you abide by your conduit fill rating.
You really didn't need the subpanel but at least u had some fun installing it and i hope that it was a learning experience for you not bad for someone who just did research so good job man
Thanks for watching! I had a lot of fun doing this and learned a ton, not only from the process, but from all these comments. Thank you!
@@darkopz He had two open slots left which were for his 220v if it were me I would of used that to run straight into a box for the 220v outlet and then I would of converted one of the other circuit breakers in my panel to a tandem circuit breaker and I would of had an extra space for another circuit for that 120v outlet.
@@gustavoramos8229 Depends on how old his main panel is. I was going to add tandem's to mine but found out that it's not compatible with those breakers.
@@gustavoramos8229 would’ve not would of.
One thing I noticed and Loved about this video is how you included the parts where you ran into an issue and and the process of correcting them. Even having to go back to the store... I see you have other skills, carpentry etc. but you should definitely consider taking up the craft... Even if it’s just getting a State Cert. Nice Video btw 👍🏽
Thank you very much! I’ve always found that the videos that show people’s mistakes are more interesting and more useful, so I like to keep mine in
Skills is a generous compliment my dude
Better than most electricians until you ran the conduit. Oh man! 😂
I’m not an electrician but I’m OCD certified and my spidey senses immediately perked. Lol.
I did enjoy the video, the humor and the fact he was forthcoming about his inexperience.
Nice TableSaw!!
Nice Job!! My only comment would be the 220 circuit. Normally this would be a 12/3 or 10/3 wire where there is an extra red wire for the second 110 leg of electricity this will allow you to keep the white for a neutral. Not a huge deal I have used 12/2 myself. enjoyed the video
Thank you for watching! That’s a good tip for the 12/3!
Thank you for this confirmation. When I do my subpanel I was going to use 10/3 from the subpanel to the outlet myself. Still trying to learn what gauge for a run of about 100' from panel to subpanel. And hoping against hope the conduit I buried 5 years ago is the right diameter to accommodate that wire.
Michael D Kernan What did you end up installing? What amps of breaker?
Good just, glad it went safely. A trick on peeling the #2 wire jacket is to nick the end, grasp the ground wire and pull. This works IF there is a ground wire and it is naked....
Thank you for posting this. It was a learning moment watching and also reading the comments. Appreciate your time.
I figured it would be a good learning opportunity for anyone that watched this, glad you got something out of it and thanks for watching!
@@CarolinaCraftsman I bought the surface mount plug for welder. Still need to get a sub panel box. Thinking of moving into a larger main panel but that would require having power off completely right? If using sub panel then it could be shut off completely when adding future breakers. Liked the additional 120 volt outlet so no need for extension cords.
Yeah, if you’re changing out the main panel you would need to call the power company and shut everything off. Even doing a sub panel, it’s safer for the power company to shut it off but not 100% necessary
Since you ran the wires through conduit they cannot be Romex , basically the conduit acts as your insulation, the romex already has insulation and isn’t supposed to be used in conduit. Easy fix strip the romex sheathing all the way off so it’s individual wires inside the conduit. Then it will pass inspection:)
The wires can overheat with that much insulation and melt or start fires
NEC says you can run Romex through conduit.
A fussy inspector could say that the stripped wires aren't legal because the ones inside romex aren't labeled as to what they are.
😂😂😂 just the tip...
Good video man, now I want to put a sub panel in even though I don’t need it.
Thank you! I also ran another 110 line for the regular power tools in the garage so I didn’t have to have extension cords running everywhere and that’s been super convenient
There are a few code violations and several installation issues !
1. As someone else said, you cannot run wire from your “LB” into the wall and into the panel “free air”. It must be in a manufactured jacket or totally in conduit.
2. When you rerouted your 120volt garage circuit from your main panel to your sub panel by spicing onto it and routing it with your 220 lines you essentially made your main panel a junction box. That’s illegal. You technically should remove the circuit wire from the main panel and run it separately to the sub panel.
4:54 good point (folks should keep hammering at stuff like this in their videos to inform companies we are tired of their greedy ways
I loved that tutorial, very simple to understand, thank you thank you
What I would have recommend it would be simple, replace some of those single breakers with double breakers, this are two skinny brakes in one and you could have made space for ure220...
That’s a good call, but I wanted to add another 120 line that would feed additional tools in the garage so a sub panel made more sense
@@CarolinaCraftsman got cha... Good job tho...
Thank you!
Not all panels can safely do that.
Interesting to see US installation, I am not familiar with your code. But 2 Points:
Single Phase 220V (230) Voltage is in a German garage normal. 400V 3 Phase at least 16A is the Profi Tool Voltage😎 at the socket.
And for this kind installing you MUST be an educated electrician.
Stay healty
.
the last time i installed a 240v outlet was for a dryer. It only had 3 prongs. It wasnt clear if the 3rd prong was a neutral or a ground. i bought 10/3 instead of 10/2 (I would NEVER want to run a bare wire as your neutral). that way I had a black and red for hots. and i used the white for the 3rd prong which connected to my shared neutral/ground bar. I left the bare ground wire unconnected at both ends.
So helpful tip when tighten8ng wire. Tighten then wiggle wires and tighten again
Aluminum wires. I didn't think people used that anymore because aluminum expands and contracts causing the wires to come loose and could cause fires. I know they used them in the us in the 80s fit a shorts time and Europe. I believe aluminum connections require a aluminum approved plus and or connectors. I'm not an electrician and could be wrong. I liked the video. Thanks
Aluminum is used very often in commercial applications for wires sized larger than 10 awg. It is more common than copper by far, for the cost. It requires noalox for all terminations or splices, and can be used with aluminum (very common), copper, or copper clad aluminum ul listed terminals, lugs, etc. You are right about the 80s, but it is mainly used for service drops or sub panel homeruns in residential applications today, if at all.
This guy's work in the video sucks, is not to code, and he likely would have had a better product even by listening to a home depot employee's advice.
The new "aluminum" wire is actually an alloy that corrects the problems associated with earlier versions
Nice! All garage outlets have required GFCI since 1976 though. If you use a 20amp breaker you must use 20amp outlets. Not that most people do it that way...
The only thing I noticed that is controversial would be how you ran the cable in the metal pipes. Some people say that you cannot run cables with the casing still on them. Meaning that you can only (or should only) run individual wires in the pipes/conduit. Not 100% sure why that is the case, but it might have something to do with overheating.
Thanks for watching! A few other people have commented on that and it is because of overheating
@@CarolinaCraftsman There might be code that allows it. Not explicitly, but via down rating the load if it would be considered a spacing issue. I'm no expert, just a CZcams watcher. 😂
Depends on the NEC on when you installed this.
For service entry cable you cannot run that in underground conduit because it is not USE rated. You CAN run in outdoor conduit (and that is recommended to protect the insulation of the wire and adds an additional layer of safety). In order to run service entry in conduit you have to pay attention to the temprature of the wiring. It is possible you will have to use larger conduit or larger diameter wiring due to derating rules. Derating happens because as soon as you install service entry cable in conduit you are then trapping heat in the wiring; you now need lower guage wiring and larger conduit to be able to disapeat heat better.
You cant run individual wires underground either unless they are USE rated. If the wires are going from panel to panel both underground and above ground and inside a dwelling then they have to be both USE-2 and fire rated (also known as dual rated). The easiest wire to use to meet this code is Mobile Home Feeder. MHF can be run all the way in conduit from panel to panel without having to make splice boxes.
If you use USE-2 in conduit underground (that is only use rated and is not fire rated) then you have to transition to service entry wire when it transitions in a house. This is typically done with a splice box where USE-2 runs underground and then service entry is used to enter the dwelling.
.
You can run cable in conduit just pay attention to the conduit fill rating
You have to put straps on that pvc conduit. Also, you cannot leave exposed wire inside the wall. The conduit must go all the way into the connector. You also have to glue the fittings together. Same goes for the emt. Must go all the way into the connector and set screws must be tightened to accomplish bonding. You have to put offsets on the emt to do that though. It is also good practice to run a ground tail from the ground terminal inside each 1900 box. As you have it set up now, Also, both receptacles must be gfci protected because they’re in your garage above a concrete slab. I admire your willingness to attempt this yourself as a non-electrician but now that you’ve had your fun, please hire an electrician to come in and clean up this install. It’s still not code compliant and still not safe. There is a reason there are professionals available to do this.
I was wondering if I could install a 220 on a sub panel. Thanks for answering that question.
I dont want to be that guy but im gonna make some safety notices, your aluminum should be in conduit the entire run, and, when you spliced in your LB, your wires should be so tight they twist together, otherwise they may fall apart
Oh you landed the ground last? I too like to live on the edge. 😅⚡
I’m thinking he added sub panel for future breakers.
Nice video 🤙🏽
Thank you!
You should probably torque your electrical connections in accordance with the manufacturer's recommendations. The torque requirements are on the side of each breaker and in the subpanel. The outlets are probably with the packaging, but it might be printed on the back of each outlet?
6:50 This is where a good selection of M18 tools come in handy.
Honestly thats an eye sore and a protruding obstacle. Why not just pull up the dry wall and do it right.
There's a song where people with opinions should mind their own biscuits & gravy, and maybe raise their own kids. You provided people with how you did your install and I appreciated it. I learned a thing or two. I guess there are people out there that feel better when they criticize others. Since you're the homeowner you can do whatever the heck you want with your house. You could have just deleted those critical comments so they know they're not productive. Enjoyed your video.
Thank you! As far as the negative comments go I just hit them back with niceness and they usually stop responding or give me an actual tip so I like to leave them up
I do believe that you may have to uninstalls the electrical sub-panel from the plywood, do to fire issues, you got use metal frame.
Thanks for the heads up!
i don't know if that's entirely true. in NJ, our house was made by Toll Brothers and the panel was installed on plywood in the basement. Maybe this differs municipality to municipality or has changed since that install. As far as I know, the breaker box enclosure is suitable for fire. I mean logically, most breaker boxes are installed in-wall between two studs (wood).
You are fine with the plywood
I mean if it was a metal framed wall you wouldnt run a 2by to mount a box to, youd get some metal framing members and tie into the studs for mounting and just the same in a wood framed house, whats the point of putting a metal stud on a wood frame?
Thats fine and all if you ALREADY have a panel in the garage.....i just have a wire ran into the loft above the door
I think it’s the same concept, just run the wires from you main panel to where you want your sub panel
That would leave a 30amp screw type fuse feeding an entire sub panel tho
Oh yeah, if you just need the one line into your shop and you have room in your panel for it, then you don’t need a sub panel
question: underneath the main box, where your new wires made a 90 degree and came outside the wall;
are you suppose to cove that 90 degree inside the wall with a 90 degree conduit ?
thanks.
greetings from north California.
Yes, you are supposed to. I didn’t at the time so I’m gonna have to back and fix it
Proof that even when you do it "wrong" and it would never pass an inspection... it still works! LOL. I've had many arguments with professionals about things I don't do to code. I am never unsafe, but there are times when code is overkill. I only do electrical work for myself that way, but it's kind of like... watching an electrician or inspector smoke a cigarette. "Oh, you gonna tell me what's safe and what isn't?" Always be safe, but code doesn't guarantee safety. Old houses that fail today's standards are still standing. Half my house from just the 80s would fail today, and that's not even including all the clearly DIY former homeowner shit I've found... yikes.
Thanks for watching! I totally agree with everything you said. I think that electricians are just extra sensitive when someone encroaches on their trade🤷🏼♂️
As a full time electrician i would say it's not that we are sensitive it's that we have a huge amount of pride in our work and all the time we put in to get where we are and when some guy who just does research all of a sudden thinks he can do a better job it's an insult sure u can get things to work but quality takes time and experience
Lol there’s no way I could ever do a better job than an actual electrician, but I can do a cheaper job! Haha
I must say I agree electricians act like if it’s not perfectly straight it’s going to start a fire or that your some kind of hack. Most of these jobs people do they do it in their own homes truth is electricians overcharge too much. I got quoted $1400 for 6 hours of work another time $600 for 2 hours. I don’t think electricians are worth $200-$300 an hour plus the permit they pull that you have to pay for and the high markup they do on all the parts they get. Better to learn and do it myself.
@@gyver471 you don't understand the business end. Insurance is the big expense. Most state require a minimum of $1 million in liability coverage. Insurance company charge an arm and leg for it. Not counting workman comp. So yes $300 is a little overboard but I don't know anyone charging that much. My rate is $130 an hour or I price by job.
I’m no electrician but great video. Not sure if you have the answer or if someone here does, but are panel is 100A and we want to add a EV hook up. Does it make more sense to have an electrician add a sub-panel and put the EV there and maybe more another big breaker also, or would installing it on the panel we have now be ok to operate, assuming we only schedule to charge the E-vehicle during the off-peak hours of the night? All suggestions and input is welcome! It is much appreciated.
I love how many of these DIY videos noone uses a meter tester to test electricity dyring the process 🙄 Its like hey lets plug something up and see if it blows up💥💥💥😂
You did a hell of a job my man!! 💪 I’d definitely have you on the team. The wood around the conduit was very creative! I’m definitely taking that idea! Good work man!
Haha thank you!
Was there a reason for not putting the sub panel behind the drywall? I think it would have been a cleaner job? However, You are a friendly presenter and did like your video.
The wire to the 240v plus isn’t big enough, could cause a fire
There is a reason to hire professionals, would have recessed the sub panel eliminating all the garbage conduit, saving yourself money, hope you removed the green bonding screw from sub panel, however, most sub panels have this screw in a bag loosely. No need to cote aluminum wires anymore. Either install a gfci in main panel which is expensive or cheaper gfci outlet. NEC now requires at least gfi breaker eliminating gfci outlets. Running Romex in conduit not advised. In other words, if a insurance adjuster with some knowledge would most likely not insure this. Nothing wrong with do it yourself just make sure it’s done properly. There is a reason for codes , I don’t agree with some codes but I myself have to abide or I don’t pass.
Cables should never be installed under tension as you have done here. They should be secured and have a natural lay. Also, bad idea with the drywall screws. They worry out super easy. I wouldn't trust hanging a picture from those things.
"I'm not a professional....but I got me a CZcams PHD" lol
You need to install GFCI outlets in the garage.
Do they make 220v GFCI outlets, or do you just get a combination breaker that can do it?
Nice job on the work and the video. Pleasantly surprised you weren’t annoying to listen to like most other people’s videos!😂 Again, nice job, bud
Haha thank you!
Who's the 177 peoplethat liked this video 🤦♂️, so many violations. And the worst part is that you didn't need a subpanel. Google what a tandem breaker is....you could of freed up at least 5 spots from what i saw and then just added your dedicated 120 and 240v outlets without all that mess.
Thanks for watching! I’d never heard of a tandem breaker, that’s really cool!
I’m number 205 lol
Thanks for the info! I’m not planning on adding tandem breakers, but it’s great info for any future person trying to figure this out
my house has a bunch of tandems in the panel which is full. I don't like them. It is all to code, I just hate the tiny little switches. They don't give that full, chunky, lots of copper inside feel.
"...despite my claims to my wife."...nice touch. Thank you for sharing your work. I just ordered a Grizzly welder and will be wiring a subpanel to my detached garage. I hope. Mike
Thanks for watching! Let me know if you have any questions and I’ll see if I can help you to the best of my limited ability haha
Did you meant 240v?
Glad the panel box wasn't flammable with those sparks 😮
Sub panel not needed. Get some tandem breakers instead.. Way cheaper and faster.
Good Video. I would have tried to bend the EMT tubing, but that is just me.
Nice work 😎😎
Thank you!
So much wrong here I wouldn't know where to start.
When I pull off the half inch or so on the Romax I then grab the bare wire and I pull that cut through the insulation and then cut it off till length
“My customers are usually shocked when they find out what a bad electrician I am.”
Oh the, already a hole there thing. Put a hole through a piece of wood then screw or clamp it to the drywall. Then drill your large round hole.
Well done, don't worry about the "Master Electricians" who troll DIY people just to boost their confidence.
Did you connect the 220's ground to the sub's earth ground or neutral bus? It seems no video on CZcams is clarifying that.
2 months late, but to the ground bus.
@@TylerBundy260 I figured it out eventually. 110 is hot, neu, gnd, but 220 is hot, hot, gnd
There was room for the 70amp breaker, why not add the outlet directly to that?
I know this video is old, but how were you able to locate the ground and neutral wire on the main panel for the breaker you relocated?
Not sure if you know this answer but any help would be great, the main panel is a 60amp breaker, it has multiple spots available where I want to put a 30 amp breaker and installed a electric water heater but I noticed there's a 50 amp breaker in there for a electric stove, the apartment is very small with all lights on its using 1 amp I'm just worried that when the stove and water heater both on it will pop the 60 amp breaker what do you think
There’s a chance that will happen, it also depends on how much the water heater and stove draw when they’re on. The most likely scenario to trip the main breaker would be if you’re running every burner at full blast and someone’s taking a very long shower. If you can avoid that you’ll probably be fine, but I would ask a real electrician lol
I am not an electrician but a conduit strap on the conduit right after your LB would have kept you from having to put a wood plate in.
OK, looked good to me, GOOD video. But you said you did some research on the internet, what would I be looking for if I did a sub panel on my house? I have tried to look up some electrical courses locally, PHX AZ area. And I can't seem to find anything solid. If I take courses, it would be to get an Electrician License, but all they offer, is an "Apprentice" certificate. Thank You !!
Nice job❤
I have a service panel separate from my house. It has 3 breakers. One controls a220 line that goes to the creek pump that delivers water to our tank. I need to take off that 220v line thats just wired directly to the pump. I need that 220 to be wired to a Sub panel box first. Then power a 110 outlet and a 220 outlets. Is that possible? I need to put a heater so the pump doesn’t freeze in the winter .
Please help with any info
Thanks
I think you should use a wire with (black and red colors or 2 blacks) for 220V outlet instead of (white and black).
Good job on the post. It’s helpful.
I believe it is a code violation to run Romex through a metal conduit.
Nope no code violation per NEC.
How about some advice i’m doing the sub panel battery back up generate a fed but my inverter is 230 x 1 “ Quetion cheapest way to wire 230v x 1 into 115v x 2 I’ve seen to get 220 the election jumps 2 - 120v Circuit breaker isn’t one ! Can I take to 230v feed it into the main breaker and jump a feeder wire 3” to the other side & the inverter at peak only puts out 75A x 1 at 3 Kw my main items a sump pump , and maybe 2 refrigerators and a light or 2
I have to do the same thing for my saw. My panel is outside behind the kitchen so my panel will be mounted in the garage and will run wires through the attic.
So heres what we have going on. We have a main pole that has 200 amp service to it. We have a shed that is about 350 to 400 feet away and we'd like to install a sub panel to feed an A.C. and a fridge. I think I need a 50 amp breaker at the main box then run #6 UF wire to the sub panel which will have two 15 amp breakers, one to feed an outlet for the A.C. and one to feed the outlet for the fridge. Does this sound like the right set up? Also would I need to worry about voltage drop or would this set up enable The A.C. and fridge to run without fault even with voltage drop. I have literally just started to learn about all this in the last week. Treat me like a toddler when answering please. haha
The conduit run from your panel to sub panel is not complete. Do you have wires in the wall that are not in a conduit. This is a hazard and could cause a fire. I am a licensed electrician you need to fix this.
Thank you for the heads up!
I can’t stop laughing! You are awesome
Very good job.
Great video. I love that background music!
Thank you for watching!!
Ok fine nice job, but for some reason I thought you were gonna solve all my world's problems
Thank you! Haha no, I can’t solve all your problems
220V? The mains supply is 120/240V in the USA. There hasn't been 110/220V service for over 70 years.
outstanding
Thank you!
Not great but not bad definitely saved a lot of money.
Thanks for watching! And yes I did!
Did you check your bonding screw within the subpanel. I don't remember you visiting this, did you ?
If that’s the main panel why not just put a 60 amp 2 pole breaker in the slot that was already available in your main panel to run your 240 outlet?
This is a prime example of why DIYers should not do electrical! Nothing about it would pass code!
People listen....if you got a switch that doesn’t work properly, change it. If an outlet doesn’t want to grip plugs tightly anymore, replace it. If the smoke detector chirps, install a new battery! If you need to do ANY work that involves you taking that cover off the panel, CALL a LICENSED! ELECTRICIAN! In the interest of saving a few dollars you’ll be putting not just your family, but generations of people that will live in that house at potential risk of an unimaginable fate......when plumbers make mistakes, a little Sheetrock is usually the only victim. When electricians screw up or those pretending to be electricians....people end up taking helicopter rides to your states Hospitals that specialize in BURNS!!...it’s not worth absolutely anything to have to look through the oxygen tent plastic, down at a family member who’s in the most pain imaginable. And why? Cause you weren’t going to pay that much money!! Think about it before you take on another project you know your not qualified for.
Do recommend this for the DIY. Against code and a hazard to you.
Need some heavy duty troll repellent for this comment section 😀
Haha no kidding!
Thanks for the upload 👍👍
Thanks for watching!
Always verify power is off with a meter
Eh.. trick is take a bare copper conductor and wrap it around your forearm tightly and runnit to a ground on the panel then touch what your working on.. at most it will put a little pep in your step but wont hurt or kill you unless your dealing with higher voltages or are before your main breaker.. make sure grounds tight though or it will arc on u or the box..