I'm really glad our video helped you out, thank you for watching and commenting! Hopefully next season I'll find some time to make some more routine repair videos.
Thanks for the kind words! It was an actual repair, we had a little time so instead of me doing it I had my helper go through the steps as I instructed.
This video was a lifesaver. The process was easy and I saved hundreds by doing it myself. I took it slow, but still had the job done in a little over an hour. Great Stuff!!!
Thank you so much you pointed out a detail that help me replace my pool pump. It have taken me two days to replace it because no one else I have watched pointed out a detail that was missing. Thank you and god bless!
Now you have us curious what detail? The 7/16" wrench under the switch to hold the shaft is one of the most common things we see thwarting people that want to DIY. Thanks for commenting, it always helps our channel.
Thank you so much! I'm pretty handy but this video was so simple that even a first-time rookie could follow it and get this replacement done properly. My friend's pool guy wanted $400 JUST TO CHANGE THE MOTOR that my friend had purchased on Amazon for $200! I had this job done within 35 minutes. The ONLY thing I would add here is that you should explain that the pump HAS to have water in it BEFORE STARTING IT and whoever is doing the replacement, needs to add water into the pump strainer assembly BEFORE using. I failed to do so but was smart enough to turn it off when I realized there was no vacuum being created by the pump. I opened the strainer intake lid and realized it needed water to create the vortex necessary for the pump to actually pump the water. I would also suggest that they buy a new set of gaskets as well since they wear pretty easily over time. I had bought a set on Amazon for $14 that included ALL gaskets AND the seals. I also bought a silicone lubricant made specifically for pools ($9) that made it easier installing the seals and gaskets. That said though, thank you SO much for this incredible video, it literally may be THE best How-To I've ever watched....and I watch a LOT! lol!
Glad it worked out, not a huge job but of course there's always a few little things one needs to know like the 7/16" wrench fished under the switch. I've gotten some hate from other pool companies for showing homeowners how to do things on their pools... I feel when someone needs us they'll reach out and appreciate sharing some knowledge. Thanks for commenting.
Simply the best Super Pump motor replacement video - I've watched a lot of them. Thanks for taking the time to explain things that others take for granted the viewer knows. My pump motor died on Friday and I followed this video Saturday (for pump removal) and Sunday (for new install). FLAWLESS. Great tip on (1) not bothering to really worry too much about really tightening the impeller, (2) showing us how the old pump seal can come apart in multiple pieces and making sure to remove all pieces (3) reminding that there is a housing gasket. I would have totally missed that - mine came out when I removed the old motor. Only other tip I'd mention is that a person may want to replace the diffuser gasket since, if buying a kit, this gasket would be in there so good to check if that needs replacing while the motor is out. Now if I could find a solution for the pump drain cap to stop leaking, I'd be set! The cap slot is a bit stripped and no matter how much PTFE tape I use on the cap, the cap won't really tighten well and have to play with it forever to get it just right so it won't leak. New caps don't help. Thanks again for taking the time to make this video - I'm sure it has helped a ton of people!
Thanks for the kind words, after I watched the video I did realize I should have mentioned changing out the diffuser gasket, in this case it was ok but oftentimes why not change it since you're in there. Great observation! We really didn't set out to make a video, this was an actual service call and we had a little extra time that day so I pulled out my phone and had my helper who has zero experience fixing pool pumps do the work so I would be able to narrate and instruct him. As for your pump plugs not staying in, tell us about it... it's really unfortunate Hayward hasn't addressed this, used to never be an issue but over the past few years nearly every pump we winterize has this problem and telling someone they need a new housing because of something as trivial as a drain plug seems ridiculous. Hayward filters also have this issue with the drains where even a new cap can leak. As for a fix, you can do what we do and get a deeper plug that's 1/4 NPT and not use the one with the washer. If you're lucky it'll go in a bit deeper and grab some better threads, just be careful not to put on too much teflon or it can crack the housing (the front, not usually the side one) Another way is to get a 1/4" stainless steel nipple and a draincock (valve), this way you won't have to keep taking it out every winter, you could even glue it in with plumbers goop if you wanted, in fact on my own pump I just glued a plug in (don't use teflon if you do that) and since I only have to remove the water once in the winter it's not a big deal. I just vacuum it out or use a sham-wow to soak it up. For the rear plenum you can loosen the bolts or what I do is just pour in half a gallon of non toxic antifreeze in the front portion and let it mix with the water in the back. Hope this helps, there's a lot of pool stuff that's just poorly designed, don't even get me going about Hayward Chlorinators and that lid o-ring design :)
@@BobsPoolService Bob - thanks again for taking the time to write such a great reply. Do you do service calls to somerset county? LOL. Yeah - for my Hayward sand filter, I had a similar issue last 3 years where the plastic drain spout chipped and now the cap will still leak no matter how tight. If others have this issue, what I've done is used silicone earplugs to shove in the filter holes when I open and then the cap seals with no leak. At closing, just remove the silicone - easy. I wonder if that would work for the drain plug? Thanks for the other few tips on the drain plugs. And, I have the Chlorinator too. What a pain although I don't use it much as I pretty much switched to liquid 10+ years ago that I manually dose once a day so rarely fussing with it.
@@MarcL-sj7qi Hey Mark, we do have some clients in Somerset, it's not our main area but if you need something just mention to my biz partner Walter who answers the phone that you spoke to me on youtube. As far as the chips on the filter stem drain it's oftentimes animals that chew on it, maybe they're looking for water or maybe they just like to chew? Squirrels seem to do this with fence latches and pump handles too. Good move on switching to liquid chlorine, we see more pools damaged by tablets than anything else. if you ever do use them really test the water often and adjust the pH, it'll always be low as you use tablets because they're half acid. You maintain your pool the same way as I do my hot tub with just liquid chlorine (bleach). If you can get some old style drain plugs without the flange and washer they're a little longer and might help you seal your pump or as you said silicone... you can always just put non toxic antifreeze in there over the winter as well if you seal it off. I saw some stainless steel plugs on amazon I'm tempted to order and try out, once upon a time pumps came with brass or bronze plugs that lasted 30 years. It's really sad what's happened to the quality of pool equipment across the board for the most part. We used to change out filters that were 20 years old, then it went to 10, then 5 and now we see cycles of 3-4 years for this stuff. Pump motors went from using copper windings to using aluminum in some cases and the bearings are the big culprit, they used to use quality usa made ones but now who knows what's in there. I have pumps from the early 80's we use to pump out pools and they're still as quiet as when I bought them.
@@BobsPoolService Thanks again! Will do on the service. I know what you mean on the quality. My original superpump motor from 2006 lasted 10+ years. These Century replacements now go 2-4 years. Really is terrible. It was ages since I used the chlorinator. With the pump out of action, I ran to home depot to get some pucks. $50 for 5lbs - geez these things have gotten to be a lot. I used them to float in the pool to keep up some levels of constant chlorine, and when the pump was back working after watching your training vid, I transferred them to the chlorinator, which hadn't been used in years. I switched to liquid (BBB method) over 15 years ago after having way too much CYA in the pool which caused major issues with chlorine not being effective. Got myself a good test kit and now test the chlorine each night and just add liquid once a day. For those near an Ocean State Job Lot, they carry 12.5% liquid at a great price. I'll have to look for those stainless plugs - maybe worth a shot!
@@MarcL-sj7qi BBB is the best, I can tell you know your pool stuff well! If you want a better chlorinator check out the Pentair 320, it used to be called the Rainbow but was bought out. I still prefer to avoid tablets but sometimes if you're away for a week it's nice to have. Unlike the Hayward the 320 is also full flow and the tablets aren't stewing in water when you turn off the system.
I was waiting the pool store to send the repair guy to get this done for me. The wait was going to be 2 weeks before someone come by to see what would be needed. Thanks for showing me how and highlighting the important steps to stay safe. Awesome!
I know the feeling! Many repairs in my house I'd gladly hire someone but the wait time or taking off from work to be home often leads me to having a go at it myself. Not running a pool for 2 weeks could be disastrous. One thing to keep in mind if you ever have a situation like that get some bleach or liquid chlorine to put in your pool while it's not running, that will at least keep algae from growing and not stain the liner or gunite.
Excellent, I am a mechanical engineer and conscious to detail which you have addressed. Love the ants, addresses the things that are in the real world, I can image I will have several.
Yeah, we just had a little time that day and it was off the cuff, just used my cell phone to record it. Ants and other critters are a reality in the pool trade! Small details can make or break a DIY job like this and I haven't seen too many videos on the subject.
SOO funny.. I just called you yesterday to get advice on how to do this... Figured ahh hell, ill look it up on youtube if i have questions... and BOOM your the first video LOL Thanks for your help
That is funny I thought I had a video up of this but I wasn't positive but looking at it I remember I did that this spring with Walter when we had a little bit of time. I really want to put up more how-to videos but we're always so busy with work it sometimes just passes by and before you know it the season's over
This was actually a plain ole classic super pump but the super II is indeed similar. It's amazing how common the old design is in our area, I'd say 9/10 pumps are Hayward Super Pumps. Glad the video was helpful to you.
@BobsPoolService Thanks for the clarification. I had actually gotten this video confused with another similar one that was for the Super Pump II. I corrected my comment.
Great video - that is going to be my task this evening with the same exact pump/motor. Glad to have this as a resource, very helpful and makes approaching my challenge a bit less stressful.
Motor died and of course it was over the weekend. I knew the original motor was on the way out so I bought another one to have on hand. Your video was great and was really easy to follow. Thanks very much!
Glad it worked out, I'm always happy to share knowledge. I didn't see any step by step videos on youtube so we had a little extra time and it was fun doing. Thanks for commenting.
Hopefully it's better, we saw motors go from USA to Mexico, then later China and Thailand. Hayward doesn't make motors, they're made by AO Smith, Emerson or Century usually. I haven't found either brand to be better in this case but I will say the OLD ones lasted for 20 years, new pump motors 5-7 at best, some only make it 3. Usually the bearings go and they get so loud you can't be in the backyard with it. We used to change bearings but now when we take apart the bells on the pump usually the metal just crumbles and the screws snap so they're really not serviceable like the older ones were. If you were handy and put new high quality bearings on a brand new pump you may get more mileage. Glad the video was helpful!!
@@BobsPoolService they use crappier metal for sure. America was great but everyone got greedy. Companies, unions, consumers. Maybe we’ve all learned our lessons and things can come full circle. Thanks
Thank you for doing this video. I wasn't sure how I was going to spin the old impeller off and hold the shaft from spinning. Also picked up a couple other tips. It was a great help. 👍
@@BobsPoolService That was incredibly helpful. I searched videos for just that reason and after watching yours I learned a couple helpful tips on removing the ceramic seal/bushings. So helpful! The new motor is running great and so quiet. Thank you again.
Hrm, some of them with the end caps are bigger, usually 9/16 but 7/16 is actually slightly larger than 11mm, it's 11.1125 so maybe your 7/16 was damaged or perhaps it just took the right touch to grab the flat spot and you got lucky with the 11 mm? But thanks for commenting and I'm glad the video helped! Just made another one today on changing the seal only, hoping to find some time to edit and upload. Again thanks for watching.
Would love to see closeup shots before the seals go on. I left one of the rubber washers on - looked like part of the pump housing. Anyway - thank you. Never would complete the project without this video.
There's a rubber part that sometimes stays on the impeller. Definitely important to get that off before putting the new seal on where the brass part meets the plastic part of the impeller should be a 90° angle. I sometimes take some Scotch-Brite or steel wool and clean the brass part of the impeller shaft before putting the new seal on
a few videos warn of not contaminating the white ceramic part of the seal and the black mating surface. Don't know how critical but I'll use a clean towel to press them into place.
Yes, I've seen those comments on here and for sure, probably a smart choice, however with that said in all the years I've been doing pools I've NEVER seen the ceramic part fail. It's always the rubber that deteriorates and gets a hole, in some cases I believe from low pH. I've also seen the stainless spring rot out. We've been using the "saltwater rated" seals now for all replacements that use viton for the rubber, time will tell if they last any longer. PS-201V is the part number from US seal.
Thanks for this great video. However, my impeller was NOT coming off. I sure do wish it came off as easy as the one in your video. I would recommend to folks trying this at home to perhaps have a replacement impeller on hand because you may be in a situtaion where you need to destroy the impeller on the old motor just to get the backing plate off and continue with the job. Good luck!
Thank you for the recommendation of a strap wrench. This was exactly what we needed to get our stubborn impeller off. The Ace Hardware 4" strap wrench worked perfectly for $10 (even though the package said it only worked up to 4" circumference and our impeller was bigger than that.... the strap on the strap wrench is easily 6+") @@BobsPoolService
@@joncarbone1934 Strap wrenches are great for pool work because they're gentle on the plastic. Sometimes it's impossible to get a fitting off with pliers because once you squeeze hard enough to grip the fitting that pressure ovalizes the plastic and makes it bind. With a strap wrench you grab all the surfaces perimeter evenly and it doesn't stress the plastic. Glad it worked for you.
All hayward super pumps of this style use the same seal regardless of HP, 3/4-2hp all use the same seal but use a different impeller. PS201 or PS201V (viton for saltwater pools) is what you want.
Hi, thanks a lot for a very helpful video. One question, are the 2 hot wires interchangeable? Mine has blue and black wires and the motor has L1 and L2 connectors. I’m not sure which wire goes to what connector. TIA.
Great video. i have the same pump (I do have some questions). 1. How long did your pump last? 2. I assume we have the same housing? SP2610X15? 3. The pump you installed, what was it? 4. The new seals you installed, do they come with the pump? Thanks
So this wasn't my pump, it was a customers but typically we find new super pump motors last 3-5 years. Back when I started the business things lasted 15-20 but those days are long gone. The housings for super pumps are pretty much all the same, the internals, diffuser and impeller are generally the only difference so you can use the same housing. New super pumps all use 2" housings which is actually a lot better even for 1hp systems. The motor we installed on this pump was I believe and AO smith or US motors. Unless you upgrade to a sealed motor like Pentair intelliflow systems have they're all comparable. The seals don't come with the motor, we now only use viton seals because they're rated for salt water too. The seal number is a PS-201V by US seals. Hope this helps, glad you liked the video!
Great video! I'm buying a pool house in JAX, Florida and know that {eventually} components fail. I've replaced various types and sizes of liquid pumps when I used to work on high tech semiconductor manufacturing equipment, so I have a fair amount of confidence in my ability to pull this off. Question: Do the new gaskets/seals/ceramic coupling come with the new replacement pump or do they need to be purchased separately? Thanks!
Some sellers include gaskets and seals with motors as added value but in general no. Also realize the motors fit many different models of pumps so unless the seller knows you're replacing a super pump motor the gaskets and seals could be wrong. For this pump the correct seal is a PS-201 or PS-201V (salt water rated viton). If you're mechanically inclined a repair like this isn't generally too difficult. Probably the hardest thing can be tight spaces or electric wires that are too short or perhaps damaged. We've had to replace the wires on some motor changes because the insulation was all dried up and cracking. I've seen people just tape them with electrical tape but it's not the best way to solve that.
@BobsPoolService, thanks for the feedback. Makes sense, if and when the time comes, I'll be sure to replace the failed unit with the exact same model number {if still available} or one that is 100% compatible along with the proper seals, gaskets. Ahh, Viton. I replaced literally thousands of Viton o-rings, seals, quad seals, etc. over the years for high vacuum systems and pumps. Glad the swimming pool pumps don't require the pricey chemraz or kalraz brand o-rings. :)
Great video! I had a very stubborn impeller, but I went and bought a strap wrench and she came off. Question… any benefit to upgrade a 1 HP to 1 1/2 HP. And I noticed the replacement motor is a Century. I have a HP but the label is burned up. The Impeller says 2600, and the diffuser says 1600. I think the pump is a 2610? Thank so much for the info. Huge help
So the 1600 series hasn't been made in many years, all newer super pumps and housings, impellers and diffusers are now 2600 however I believe the diffuser may not have changed design so somehow you have a mixture. As for HP ratings it you NEED a 1.5hp pump for a large pool it can be of benefit but only if the rest of your system is designed for that much flow otherwise you'll simply waste electricity. For example a sand filter generally won't benefit from the high flow of a 1.5hp pump because you'll literally push the dirty water through so fast it's less effective. On the other hand if you have D.E. they it might help you filter more water quicker if you have a 2" system. 1.5" pipes though I"d always always stick to 1 hp. Now, VERY important, you MUST match the impeller to the motor (mostly). If you put in a larger impeller designed to move more water (2610C is the 1.5hp impeller) you also need to install a 1.5hp motor or you'll overheat and burn up the motor prematurely. You CAN go the other way with a smaller impeller and larger motor, it'll sometimes run cooler but then you're also wasting electricity. Lastly, make sure the circuit can handle a larger motor, some cannot and that will cause you more grief. But in general I'd say no to putting on a larger motor, many people feel bigger is better but you'd be better off running a smaller pump longer especially in the case of a sand filter. Most newer pumps now are variable speed where they run much of the time off 1/10 hp yet you get almost 50% of the filtration so you can understand how it's just a more efficient system this way. Hope this helps!
@@BobsPoolService wow! Great explanation. I was thinking it was a mix of parts over the years. Also, your exp. as to HP very informative. No I dont play any instrument. Not former coach of NY superbowl Giants either.
Great video but Did I miss you installing new O rings? At the end you mentioned the housing ring but didn’t show? I may have to install one myself and I don’t want to miss a step and have a leak because I missed something.
In this case the housing o-ring did not need replacing. Generally it sticks into the housing fairly securely when the motor is pulled off but it is important to check that. If it's flattened out totally and lays flush with the housing it's a good idea to change it although if it's good no reason not to keep it. It's actually one of the easiest to replace, just 5 bolts, no taking of the impeller or disconnecting the electrical wires.
I would look for a local pump or electric motor repair shop. Where i live there's a place called Quality Electric that stocks all kinds of pump seals. Another options would be a store that sells pool supplies, seals are a common part that needs to be replaced. The one place I would NOT buy one is a bargain on amazon... I've seen countless customers purchase their own parts and the cheap knockoffs don't last more than a couple weeks! The proper seal for this pump is a PS-201, companies like US Seals sells decent ones, there's also salt-water rated ones with viton rubber compounds but new super pumps don't come with those and we install them on salt water pools all the time without premature failures. Of course when we replace the seals we use the better salt water rated ones. Hope this helps.
What do you do when the impeller will not turn loose by hand? I have the wrench on the shaft, rotating the impeller counter clockwise and it will not budge.
In that case I'd grab the impeller with a strap wrench or large pair of slip joint pliers to free it. 95% of the time they come right off by hand as we showed in the video but every so often, especially if the water chemistry was too acidic or the pump is just old they can be stubborn. At worst you'll break the impeller but at least you'll be able to get off the other parts you'll need and just buy a replacement impeller.
Those are Praher 1.5" unions. Newer super pumps are now all 2" and we've switched to Praher high temperature unions ( black nut) so if the pump gets hot they won't leak. The part number is 200-906 for the 2" and 150-906 for the 1.5" size. Hope this helps.
That shouldn't cause it, we often tighten them with pliers or a wrench. The design of the impeller and threaded shaft will bottom out and not overtighten. You can test thought with your hand and the power shut off to make sure the shaft spins freely, if it does you're ok there. I would check the electrical connections, wire gauge and line voltage, those factors can cause something like a motor to run hotter than it should. Also the impeller must be matched to the motor size, typically 1hp is a 2607-c, 1.5 hp is 2610-c and .75 hp is 2605-c. You can always go with a larger motor to impeller but doing so pumps less water although it is easier on the motor because it's doing less work. The last thing that might cause a motor to work hard is some kind of restriction in the system, check to make sure you have water flowing properly. Hope this helps, sometimes in the hot weather motors run hot even when installed properly especially when people start using AC's and the voltage drops. I've seen voltage as low as 90V when it should be 120 during the summer!
Thanks for the all of the instructions. Unfortunately for me not one aspect was remotely as easy. And after it all went in I had water leaking from the bottom. Took it apart 3 times to check the seals etc and same result.
Sorry it didn't go smoothly... one thing that's easy to do is accidentally leave a part of the old seal in place, if there's a small rubber ring on your impeller shaft from the old seal and you put on the new one it may leak. Second thing that's possible is the housing gasket is worn out or even more likely pinched. Check around the perimeter of the housing, there's a very thin rubber gasket, make sure that hasn't fallen out partly or become compromised. Also try to see where the water is leaking from, under the pump there's a small hole called the "weep hole", if it's coming out that directly more than likely it's a problem with the seal. There's also a small chance you got the wrong seal, PS-201 is the most common for the super pump, all the HP motors use the same seal of this style pump.
@@BobsPoolService I just read your reply and it appears you're on to the issue. I actually took it apart again this morning and realized the gasket was smaller than the old one. I put the old one on and boom no leaks! Now my issue is priming. The seal on the front may have been put on backwards because I reversed it when I got the leak. I'm gonna see if that helps get better suction later today in order to get a good prime. Thanks!
So to finalize for those that may have dealt with similar issues. The filter needed to be cleaned and pressure released. After that filling the basket constantly eventually led to a good prime.
I would push it onto the seal plate (the part attached to the motor in my thumnbnail) and then carefully push the entire assembly into the pump housing. There's grooves and the diffuser should say "top" on it, you want top to be up. It's really not possible to put it in the wrong side up, it simply won't fit into the slots on the seal plate. Don't forge there's also a gasket on the front of the diffuser, you may need to replace it oftentimes they are in bad shape especially if you use tablets.
Make sure you put the diffuser and gasket in there, I've seen that forgotten many times and even did it myself once. Beyond that I'd try filling the strainer housing with water and with the lid off turn on the power briefly, if you see the water suck down then more than likely the pump is working ok but you have an air leak somewhere in front of the housing (or the lid, etc). If the water doesn't suck down definitely check the diffuser, impeller and other pump internals.
Could be a few things, most common would be a bad or incorrectly installed pump seal. If you get down low and the water is coming out the weep hole that's probably it. The other common leak point is the housing gasket, it's a very thin gasket that seals the motor plate assembly to the front housing, it can easily get pinched. If the bolts are tight check it's condition. Lastly there could be a crack in the housing, rare but I've seen it.
@@BobsPoolService yep It was the pump seal. It had like little tits on the metal part the other part can slide into with the spring and it wasn’t quite lined up. Thanks!
The motor style is a 56J, you'll need to get the right horsepower though, it should be on the tag. If you can't read it then you can check the impeller, 2605C is 3/4HP, 2607C is 1hp and 2610C is 1.5hp, 2615 would be 2hp. The seal is a PS-201 or PS-201V (for salt water, the V stands for viton) I always put in the Viton seals when I change them out. You don't need to get a Hayward branded motor, in fact Hayward doesn't make the motors. AO smith, century, emerson or any other will work so long as it's a 56J frame threaded shaft.
Ok thank you what about if it says the flange is round or square does that matter any because my pump is the sp2607x10 hayward 1hp motor but it looks just like the video?
They're meant to be outside, the cabinet is painted steel so it should last. The controls on the front though are plastic and the UV light from the sun can damage them so it's ideal to provide some shade for them but don't cover the heater.
Certainly could be an electrical problem. Make sure you had the voltage set correctly, usually setting it to 220 with 120v current wont' ruin the motor but it'll run improperly, however feeding it 220 if you have it wired for 110 can destroy the motor quickly. I'd check to make sure the motor is getting current with a tester and also make sure the wires are secured well to the terminals.
So the DOE didn't actually outlaw 2 hp pumps, however they set forth efficiency ratings and power consumption to where it does effectively rule out single speed 2hp pumps. With that said you can repair an existing pump pretty much forever, just can't purchase a new one now. If you have a super pump like the one in this video you have a few options, if the housing is good you can just purchase a 2 hp replacement motor from Century electric or any other manufacturer, the style is frame size 56J round flange, threaded shaft. It's a generic motor, we buy ours from a local place in East Brunswick called Quality Electric. Your other options would be to downsize to a 1.5hp motor or even 1hp and fit a correponding impeller. For 1.5hp you'd want a 2610C, for 1hp a 2607C, the rest of the parts are the same among different super pump models. Lastly you can purchase a 2 speed motor, that will fulfill the regulations and you'll still have 2hp if you need it. Do you have a large pool and a DE filter? It's rare that we see a need for 2hp on residential pools and in some cases it'll work less efficiently if you have a sand filter because it simply pushes the water through so fast you're losing filtration, DE on the other hand is fine.
I'm not quite sure what you're asking but let me clarify. So the "motor" portion of a pump never comes with a diffuser, impeller or any other parts other than the motor. In fact pool pump motors are not even made by the pump manufacturer and are often used for many different applications, for example my table saw has a similar motor to that of a pool pump. With this said, any in-ground pump needs a diffuser including a super pump, in the case of an above ground pump since it's always located below the surface of the water and only needs to push it back up, not draw it from a lower point the pump does not always have one. If you put a super pump back together and forget the diffuser it will not run right and will take an eternity to pick up prime if it does at all. Hope this helps.
@@rrose002 Just take your time and pay close attention to things like the electrical connectors being securely under the screws or if you use crimps, buy good ones and avoid the amazon brands. A little silicone lube on the rubber bits also helps, I even put a small bit on the bolts in case they need to come out again, it's not recommended but after 30 plus years I never had one come out on it's own with the lube so I think it's an ok thing to do.
Stuck impeller. It won't budge. Cant get it off. The motor was making loud noises and eventually smoke came from that area. I'm trying to disassemble but the impeller can't come off.
We use a pair of very large slip joint pliers (or a strap wrench) to grab the impeller if it's seized on like that. I've yet to have one that wouldn't come off but oftentimes the impeller does break in the process of removing it. Is the impeller just stuck or is the actual motor seized? A "stuck" impeller to the shaft wouldn't cause the motor not to rotate or smoke but a bad bearing causing a seized motor would. if the pump is over 10 years old and it's really stuck that bad you may want to opt to just change out the entire pump (or try using a pipe wrench or large slip joint pliers to persuade it to come off)
Use a strap wrench or large slip joint pliers to get more leverage. It comes off counterclockwise like an ordinary screw. Just be careful not to damage it. You could probably insert 2 small screwdrivers into the flutes if you don't have a large enough pair of pliers if someone else holds the motor while you turn them. It's rare that we come across ones that don't come off by hand but everyone has a different grip... I'm always the guy asked to loosen a jar lid so probably a bad reference.
OH, they were bad!! Of all the things, I'll bungee jump, hike into the wilderness but ants get my respect. I once got into some fire ants and that's no joke.
Well the hot wires have to be on the proper terminals but it doesn't matter which hot wire goes on which "line" terminal, they're not polarized and in the case of 220 nothing is ever polarized. Just make SURE you know if you have 110 or 220 coming into the pump, if you get that wrong you can ruin a new motor. I've seen electricians believe it or not ruin a brand new motor that way!
But to expand on this, I've never personally seen a motor that fits a super pump to have L1 or L2 marked for the neutral or hot in the case of a 110v instllation, obviously with 220 there's no difference, on any device which hot goes to which terminal... 3 phase is a whole other scenario. I'd always check the wiring diagram on any electrical device and if one of the load terminals is marked for hot or neutral DO follow that but none of the motors we've used are marked as such and I've never had any problems, only an occasional defective motor perhaps one every 2 or 3 years and we install hundreds of motors each year.
Not a bad video…However, the only BIG SLIP UP, was touching the white ceramic face when replacing the pump seal!!! That is a big NO NO! Fingerprints will cause it to break down prematurely…
You are 100% correct, however with that said in all my years I've never seen the carbon/ceramic facing fail and leak, it's always the rubber part that gets eaten up and especially with low pH. But thanks for the comment, indeed one should wear gloves when handing the seal faces.
Thank you for your informative video. I just finished replacing my motor following the steps you showed and had no problems. Thanks again.
Possibly the greatest video in the history of You Tube! Your instructions made replacing my pump motor and seals a breeze. Thanks guys!
I'm really glad our video helped you out, thank you for watching and commenting! Hopefully next season I'll find some time to make some more routine repair videos.
The video was like having you right next to me walking me through the process. Not a single step was missed!! THANKS a ton!!
Thanks for the kind words! It was an actual repair, we had a little time so instead of me doing it I had my helper go through the steps as I instructed.
This video was a lifesaver. The process was easy and I saved hundreds by doing it myself. I took it slow, but still had the job done in a little over an hour. Great Stuff!!!
Glad it worked out, that's what pause is for on youtube :) We change over 100 motors a pool season on average now, nothing lasts like it used to.
As others have said, this is one of the most helpful CZcams videos I've seen. Excellent job guys!
Thank you so much you pointed out a detail that help me replace my pool pump. It have taken me two days to replace it because no one else I have watched pointed out a detail that was missing. Thank you and god bless!
Now you have us curious what detail? The 7/16" wrench under the switch to hold the shaft is one of the most common things we see thwarting people that want to DIY. Thanks for commenting, it always helps our channel.
Thank you so much! I'm pretty handy but this video was so simple that even a first-time rookie could follow it and get this replacement done properly. My friend's pool guy wanted $400 JUST TO CHANGE THE MOTOR that my friend had purchased on Amazon for $200! I had this job done within 35 minutes. The ONLY thing I would add here is that you should explain that the pump HAS to have water in it BEFORE STARTING IT and whoever is doing the replacement, needs to add water into the pump strainer assembly BEFORE using. I failed to do so but was smart enough to turn it off when I realized there was no vacuum being created by the pump. I opened the strainer intake lid and realized it needed water to create the vortex necessary for the pump to actually pump the water. I would also suggest that they buy a new set of gaskets as well since they wear pretty easily over time. I had bought a set on Amazon for $14 that included ALL gaskets AND the seals. I also bought a silicone lubricant made specifically for pools ($9) that made it easier installing the seals and gaskets. That said though, thank you SO much for this incredible video, it literally may be THE best How-To I've ever watched....and I watch a LOT! lol!
Thank you. Followed your steps and successfully did the job myself in exactly 2 hours. Works amazing! Thanks for saving me cash!
Glad it worked out, not a huge job but of course there's always a few little things one needs to know like the 7/16" wrench fished under the switch. I've gotten some hate from other pool companies for showing homeowners how to do things on their pools... I feel when someone needs us they'll reach out and appreciate sharing some knowledge. Thanks for commenting.
Simply the best Super Pump motor replacement video - I've watched a lot of them. Thanks for taking the time to explain things that others take for granted the viewer knows. My pump motor died on Friday and I followed this video Saturday (for pump removal) and Sunday (for new install). FLAWLESS. Great tip on (1) not bothering to really worry too much about really tightening the impeller, (2) showing us how the old pump seal can come apart in multiple pieces and making sure to remove all pieces (3) reminding that there is a housing gasket. I would have totally missed that - mine came out when I removed the old motor. Only other tip I'd mention is that a person may want to replace the diffuser gasket since, if buying a kit, this gasket would be in there so good to check if that needs replacing while the motor is out. Now if I could find a solution for the pump drain cap to stop leaking, I'd be set! The cap slot is a bit stripped and no matter how much PTFE tape I use on the cap, the cap won't really tighten well and have to play with it forever to get it just right so it won't leak. New caps don't help. Thanks again for taking the time to make this video - I'm sure it has helped a ton of people!
Thanks for the kind words, after I watched the video I did realize I should have mentioned changing out the diffuser gasket, in this case it was ok but oftentimes why not change it since you're in there. Great observation! We really didn't set out to make a video, this was an actual service call and we had a little extra time that day so I pulled out my phone and had my helper who has zero experience fixing pool pumps do the work so I would be able to narrate and instruct him. As for your pump plugs not staying in, tell us about it... it's really unfortunate Hayward hasn't addressed this, used to never be an issue but over the past few years nearly every pump we winterize has this problem and telling someone they need a new housing because of something as trivial as a drain plug seems ridiculous. Hayward filters also have this issue with the drains where even a new cap can leak. As for a fix, you can do what we do and get a deeper plug that's 1/4 NPT and not use the one with the washer. If you're lucky it'll go in a bit deeper and grab some better threads, just be careful not to put on too much teflon or it can crack the housing (the front, not usually the side one) Another way is to get a 1/4" stainless steel nipple and a draincock (valve), this way you won't have to keep taking it out every winter, you could even glue it in with plumbers goop if you wanted, in fact on my own pump I just glued a plug in (don't use teflon if you do that) and since I only have to remove the water once in the winter it's not a big deal. I just vacuum it out or use a sham-wow to soak it up. For the rear plenum you can loosen the bolts or what I do is just pour in half a gallon of non toxic antifreeze in the front portion and let it mix with the water in the back. Hope this helps, there's a lot of pool stuff that's just poorly designed, don't even get me going about Hayward Chlorinators and that lid o-ring design :)
@@BobsPoolService Bob - thanks again for taking the time to write such a great reply. Do you do service calls to somerset county? LOL. Yeah - for my Hayward sand filter, I had a similar issue last 3 years where the plastic drain spout chipped and now the cap will still leak no matter how tight. If others have this issue, what I've done is used silicone earplugs to shove in the filter holes when I open and then the cap seals with no leak. At closing, just remove the silicone - easy. I wonder if that would work for the drain plug? Thanks for the other few tips on the drain plugs. And, I have the Chlorinator too. What a pain although I don't use it much as I pretty much switched to liquid 10+ years ago that I manually dose once a day so rarely fussing with it.
@@MarcL-sj7qi Hey Mark, we do have some clients in Somerset, it's not our main area but if you need something just mention to my biz partner Walter who answers the phone that you spoke to me on youtube. As far as the chips on the filter stem drain it's oftentimes animals that chew on it, maybe they're looking for water or maybe they just like to chew? Squirrels seem to do this with fence latches and pump handles too. Good move on switching to liquid chlorine, we see more pools damaged by tablets than anything else. if you ever do use them really test the water often and adjust the pH, it'll always be low as you use tablets because they're half acid. You maintain your pool the same way as I do my hot tub with just liquid chlorine (bleach). If you can get some old style drain plugs without the flange and washer they're a little longer and might help you seal your pump or as you said silicone... you can always just put non toxic antifreeze in there over the winter as well if you seal it off. I saw some stainless steel plugs on amazon I'm tempted to order and try out, once upon a time pumps came with brass or bronze plugs that lasted 30 years. It's really sad what's happened to the quality of pool equipment across the board for the most part. We used to change out filters that were 20 years old, then it went to 10, then 5 and now we see cycles of 3-4 years for this stuff. Pump motors went from using copper windings to using aluminum in some cases and the bearings are the big culprit, they used to use quality usa made ones but now who knows what's in there. I have pumps from the early 80's we use to pump out pools and they're still as quiet as when I bought them.
@@BobsPoolService Thanks again! Will do on the service. I know what you mean on the quality. My original superpump motor from 2006 lasted 10+ years. These Century replacements now go 2-4 years. Really is terrible. It was ages since I used the chlorinator. With the pump out of action, I ran to home depot to get some pucks. $50 for 5lbs - geez these things have gotten to be a lot. I used them to float in the pool to keep up some levels of constant chlorine, and when the pump was back working after watching your training vid, I transferred them to the chlorinator, which hadn't been used in years. I switched to liquid (BBB method) over 15 years ago after having way too much CYA in the pool which caused major issues with chlorine not being effective. Got myself a good test kit and now test the chlorine each night and just add liquid once a day. For those near an Ocean State Job Lot, they carry 12.5% liquid at a great price. I'll have to look for those stainless plugs - maybe worth a shot!
@@MarcL-sj7qi BBB is the best, I can tell you know your pool stuff well! If you want a better chlorinator check out the Pentair 320, it used to be called the Rainbow but was bought out. I still prefer to avoid tablets but sometimes if you're away for a week it's nice to have. Unlike the Hayward the 320 is also full flow and the tablets aren't stewing in water when you turn off the system.
THANK YOU for this!
Hubs was able to make the change easily because of your step by step instructions.
I was waiting the pool store to send the repair guy to get this done for me. The wait was going to be 2 weeks before someone come by to see what would be needed. Thanks for showing me how and highlighting the important steps to stay safe. Awesome!
I know the feeling! Many repairs in my house I'd gladly hire someone but the wait time or taking off from work to be home often leads me to having a go at it myself. Not running a pool for 2 weeks could be disastrous. One thing to keep in mind if you ever have a situation like that get some bleach or liquid chlorine to put in your pool while it's not running, that will at least keep algae from growing and not stain the liner or gunite.
Excellent step by step instructions that helped me do it myself. Much appreciated and if you were on LI I would gladly use your service.
Excellent, I am a mechanical engineer and conscious to detail which you have addressed. Love the ants, addresses the things that are in the real world, I can image I will have several.
Yeah, we just had a little time that day and it was off the cuff, just used my cell phone to record it. Ants and other critters are a reality in the pool trade! Small details can make or break a DIY job like this and I haven't seen too many videos on the subject.
SOO funny.. I just called you yesterday to get advice on how to do this... Figured ahh hell, ill look it up on youtube if i have questions... and BOOM your the first video LOL
Thanks for your help
That is funny I thought I had a video up of this but I wasn't positive but looking at it I remember I did that this spring with Walter when we had a little bit of time. I really want to put up more how-to videos but we're always so busy with work it sometimes just passes by and before you know it the season's over
Just replaced my 1.5 HP Century motor on my Hayward Super Pump with the help of this very good video! Thanks for posting this!
This was actually a plain ole classic super pump but the super II is indeed similar. It's amazing how common the old design is in our area, I'd say 9/10 pumps are Hayward Super Pumps. Glad the video was helpful to you.
@BobsPoolService Thanks for the clarification. I had actually gotten this video confused with another similar one that was for the Super Pump II. I corrected my comment.
Great video and wonderful guide to this chore!
Just what my husband needed! Thank you so much 💜💖💜
Great video - that is going to be my task this evening with the same exact pump/motor. Glad to have this as a resource, very helpful and makes approaching my challenge a bit less stressful.
Glad to be of help. By far this is the most popular pump/motor we see on our routes.
Motor died and of course it was over the weekend. I knew the original motor was on the way out so I bought another one to have on hand. Your video was great and was really easy to follow. Thanks very much!
Really glad it was informative enough to get you through it. Thanks for watching.
Great video on how to replace my Hayward Super Pump!!! You made me feel confident that I could do it myself and I did! Thanks!!
Glad it worked out, I'm always happy to share knowledge. I didn't see any step by step videos on youtube so we had a little extra time and it was fun doing. Thanks for commenting.
First time replacing my Hayward pump. Thanks for the “easy to follow” instructions. It all went exactly as you described without a hitch,, thx guys!
Glad it helped!
I was so pleased my motor was made in Thailand and not China! Thanks for the help.
Hopefully it's better, we saw motors go from USA to Mexico, then later China and Thailand. Hayward doesn't make motors, they're made by AO Smith, Emerson or Century usually. I haven't found either brand to be better in this case but I will say the OLD ones lasted for 20 years, new pump motors 5-7 at best, some only make it 3. Usually the bearings go and they get so loud you can't be in the backyard with it. We used to change bearings but now when we take apart the bells on the pump usually the metal just crumbles and the screws snap so they're really not serviceable like the older ones were. If you were handy and put new high quality bearings on a brand new pump you may get more mileage. Glad the video was helpful!!
@@BobsPoolService they use crappier metal for sure. America was great but everyone got greedy. Companies, unions, consumers. Maybe we’ve all learned our lessons and things can come full circle. Thanks
Thank you for doing this video. I wasn't sure how I was going to spin the old impeller off and hold the shaft from spinning. Also picked up a couple other tips. It was a great help. 👍
Yeah, it's not obvious how to hold the shaft unless someone shows you. Glad it helped.
@@BobsPoolService That was incredibly helpful. I searched videos for just that reason and after watching yours I learned a couple helpful tips on removing the ceramic seal/bushings. So helpful! The new motor is running great and so quiet. Thank you again.
real helpful video, thanks for taking the time to put it together.
Thank you very much. You are an excellent teacher. Great job.
Glad my video was able to help.
Excellent step by step video! The only hiccup was that - even for the same pump - the 7/16" wrench was too small. I had to use 11mm.
Hrm, some of them with the end caps are bigger, usually 9/16 but 7/16 is actually slightly larger than 11mm, it's 11.1125 so maybe your 7/16 was damaged or perhaps it just took the right touch to grab the flat spot and you got lucky with the 11 mm? But thanks for commenting and I'm glad the video helped! Just made another one today on changing the seal only, hoping to find some time to edit and upload. Again thanks for watching.
Would love to see closeup shots before the seals go on. I left one of the rubber washers on - looked like part of the pump housing. Anyway - thank you. Never would complete the project without this video.
There's a rubber part that sometimes stays on the impeller. Definitely important to get that off before putting the new seal on where the brass part meets the plastic part of the impeller should be a 90° angle. I sometimes take some Scotch-Brite or steel wool and clean the brass part of the impeller shaft before putting the new seal on
Outstanding video! Very clear step by step instructions! Thanks
Very thorough. Thanks for saving me well over $300.00 on pump and service call. Plus SATISFACTION!
Really appreciate this video; helped a ton!
Thank you for this video, it helped me out tremendously
This really helped me, thanks!
Very helpful. Motor and seals replaced .
thank for this very informative video
Thanks. This helped a lot
Glad you found ,my video useful and thank you for commenting.
a few videos warn of not contaminating the white ceramic part of the seal and the black mating surface. Don't know how critical but I'll use a clean towel to press them into place.
Yes, I've seen those comments on here and for sure, probably a smart choice, however with that said in all the years I've been doing pools I've NEVER seen the ceramic part fail. It's always the rubber that deteriorates and gets a hole, in some cases I believe from low pH. I've also seen the stainless spring rot out. We've been using the "saltwater rated" seals now for all replacements that use viton for the rubber, time will tell if they last any longer. PS-201V is the part number from US seal.
Great video!! Thank you sir!
Glad it was helpful!
Thanks for this great video. However, my impeller was NOT coming off. I sure do wish it came off as easy as the one in your video. I would recommend to folks trying this at home to perhaps have a replacement impeller on hand because you may be in a situtaion where you need to destroy the impeller on the old motor just to get the backing plate off and continue with the job. Good luck!
Sometimes a strap wrench will work or a very large pair of slip joint pliers to grab it. Sometimes they can be stubborn.
Thank you for the recommendation of a strap wrench. This was exactly what we needed to get our stubborn impeller off. The Ace Hardware 4" strap wrench worked perfectly for $10 (even though the package said it only worked up to 4" circumference and our impeller was bigger than that.... the strap on the strap wrench is easily 6+") @@BobsPoolService
@@joncarbone1934 Strap wrenches are great for pool work because they're gentle on the plastic. Sometimes it's impossible to get a fitting off with pliers because once you squeeze hard enough to grip the fitting that pressure ovalizes the plastic and makes it bind. With a strap wrench you grab all the surfaces perimeter evenly and it doesn't stress the plastic. Glad it worked for you.
good video thanks 🤠
Happy to hear it was helpful.
is the part number for the seal kit the same for the 1hp motor??? thanks...great video!
All hayward super pumps of this style use the same seal regardless of HP, 3/4-2hp all use the same seal but use a different impeller. PS201 or PS201V (viton for saltwater pools) is what you want.
Thank you 😊
Glad to be of help!
Hi, thanks a lot for a very helpful video. One question, are the 2 hot wires interchangeable? Mine has blue and black wires and the motor has L1 and L2 connectors. I’m not sure which wire goes to what connector. TIA.
Yeah, with 220 and 2 hot wires it doesn't not matter if they're on L1 or L2, just make sure the ground wire is on the right terminal.
It’s connected and running now. Thanks again!!
@@TechLeadEngineer Glad it worked out for you!
Great video. i have the same pump (I do have some questions).
1. How long did your pump last?
2. I assume we have the same housing? SP2610X15?
3. The pump you installed, what was it?
4. The new seals you installed, do they come with the pump?
Thanks
So this wasn't my pump, it was a customers but typically we find new super pump motors last 3-5 years. Back when I started the business things lasted 15-20 but those days are long gone. The housings for super pumps are pretty much all the same, the internals, diffuser and impeller are generally the only difference so you can use the same housing. New super pumps all use 2" housings which is actually a lot better even for 1hp systems. The motor we installed on this pump was I believe and AO smith or US motors. Unless you upgrade to a sealed motor like Pentair intelliflow systems have they're all comparable. The seals don't come with the motor, we now only use viton seals because they're rated for salt water too. The seal number is a PS-201V by US seals. Hope this helps, glad you liked the video!
Great video! I'm buying a pool house in JAX, Florida and know that {eventually} components fail. I've replaced various types and sizes of liquid pumps when I used to work on high tech semiconductor manufacturing equipment, so I have a fair amount of confidence in my ability to pull this off. Question: Do the new gaskets/seals/ceramic coupling come with the new replacement pump or do they need to be purchased separately? Thanks!
Some sellers include gaskets and seals with motors as added value but in general no. Also realize the motors fit many different models of pumps so unless the seller knows you're replacing a super pump motor the gaskets and seals could be wrong. For this pump the correct seal is a PS-201 or PS-201V (salt water rated viton). If you're mechanically inclined a repair like this isn't generally too difficult. Probably the hardest thing can be tight spaces or electric wires that are too short or perhaps damaged. We've had to replace the wires on some motor changes because the insulation was all dried up and cracking. I've seen people just tape them with electrical tape but it's not the best way to solve that.
@BobsPoolService, thanks for the feedback. Makes sense, if and when the time comes, I'll be sure to replace the failed unit with the exact same model number {if still available} or one that is 100% compatible along with the proper seals, gaskets. Ahh, Viton. I replaced literally thousands of Viton o-rings, seals, quad seals, etc. over the years for high vacuum systems and pumps. Glad the swimming pool pumps don't require the pricey chemraz or kalraz brand o-rings. :)
Great video! I had a very stubborn impeller, but I went and bought a strap wrench and she came off. Question… any benefit to upgrade a
1 HP to 1 1/2 HP. And I noticed the replacement motor is a Century. I have a HP but the label is burned up. The Impeller says 2600, and the diffuser says 1600. I think the pump is a 2610? Thank so much for the info. Huge help
So the 1600 series hasn't been made in many years, all newer super pumps and housings, impellers and diffusers are now 2600 however I believe the diffuser may not have changed design so somehow you have a mixture. As for HP ratings it you NEED a 1.5hp pump for a large pool it can be of benefit but only if the rest of your system is designed for that much flow otherwise you'll simply waste electricity. For example a sand filter generally won't benefit from the high flow of a 1.5hp pump because you'll literally push the dirty water through so fast it's less effective. On the other hand if you have D.E. they it might help you filter more water quicker if you have a 2" system. 1.5" pipes though I"d always always stick to 1 hp. Now, VERY important, you MUST match the impeller to the motor (mostly). If you put in a larger impeller designed to move more water (2610C is the 1.5hp impeller) you also need to install a 1.5hp motor or you'll overheat and burn up the motor prematurely. You CAN go the other way with a smaller impeller and larger motor, it'll sometimes run cooler but then you're also wasting electricity. Lastly, make sure the circuit can handle a larger motor, some cannot and that will cause you more grief. But in general I'd say no to putting on a larger motor, many people feel bigger is better but you'd be better off running a smaller pump longer especially in the case of a sand filter. Most newer pumps now are variable speed where they run much of the time off 1/10 hp yet you get almost 50% of the filtration so you can understand how it's just a more efficient system this way. Hope this helps!
I almost forgot to ask in my reply, do you play a saxophone? I took a photo of a Tom Coughlin at Woodbridge a couple years so, if so small world!
@@BobsPoolService wow! Great explanation. I was thinking it was a mix of parts over the years. Also, your exp. as to HP very informative. No I dont play any instrument. Not former coach of NY superbowl Giants either.
Great video but Did I miss you installing new O rings? At the end you mentioned the housing ring but didn’t show? I may have to install one myself and I don’t want to miss a step and have a leak because I missed something.
In this case the housing o-ring did not need replacing. Generally it sticks into the housing fairly securely when the motor is pulled off but it is important to check that. If it's flattened out totally and lays flush with the housing it's a good idea to change it although if it's good no reason not to keep it. It's actually one of the easiest to replace, just 5 bolts, no taking of the impeller or disconnecting the electrical wires.
Very helpful. Where can I get one of those seals ?
I would look for a local pump or electric motor repair shop. Where i live there's a place called Quality Electric that stocks all kinds of pump seals. Another options would be a store that sells pool supplies, seals are a common part that needs to be replaced. The one place I would NOT buy one is a bargain on amazon... I've seen countless customers purchase their own parts and the cheap knockoffs don't last more than a couple weeks! The proper seal for this pump is a PS-201, companies like US Seals sells decent ones, there's also salt-water rated ones with viton rubber compounds but new super pumps don't come with those and we install them on salt water pools all the time without premature failures. Of course when we replace the seals we use the better salt water rated ones. Hope this helps.
What do you do when the impeller will not turn loose by hand? I have the wrench on the shaft, rotating the impeller counter clockwise and it will not budge.
In that case I'd grab the impeller with a strap wrench or large pair of slip joint pliers to free it. 95% of the time they come right off by hand as we showed in the video but every so often, especially if the water chemistry was too acidic or the pump is just old they can be stubborn. At worst you'll break the impeller but at least you'll be able to get off the other parts you'll need and just buy a replacement impeller.
Can you tell me what watertight fitting you are using at the pump itself?
Those are Praher 1.5" unions. Newer super pumps are now all 2" and we've switched to Praher high temperature unions ( black nut) so if the pump gets hot they won't leak. The part number is 200-906 for the 2" and 150-906 for the 1.5" size. Hope this helps.
Everything went smoothly. However, I did tighten the impeller with a wrench… motor seems to be running hot. Do you think that was the cause?
That shouldn't cause it, we often tighten them with pliers or a wrench. The design of the impeller and threaded shaft will bottom out and not overtighten. You can test thought with your hand and the power shut off to make sure the shaft spins freely, if it does you're ok there. I would check the electrical connections, wire gauge and line voltage, those factors can cause something like a motor to run hotter than it should. Also the impeller must be matched to the motor size, typically 1hp is a 2607-c, 1.5 hp is 2610-c and .75 hp is 2605-c. You can always go with a larger motor to impeller but doing so pumps less water although it is easier on the motor because it's doing less work. The last thing that might cause a motor to work hard is some kind of restriction in the system, check to make sure you have water flowing properly. Hope this helps, sometimes in the hot weather motors run hot even when installed properly especially when people start using AC's and the voltage drops. I've seen voltage as low as 90V when it should be 120 during the summer!
since both power leads were the same color, would it matter which way post you connect which wire to?
If you have 220v both power leads are the same, just connect them to L1 and L2.
Can you tell me where the airflow wire connects? Thanks in advance!
I don't believe a Super Pump has an airflow wire, maybe you're thinking of a heater or spa controller?
Can get the impeller out?? Any suggestions
An impeller wrench or large pair of slip joint pliers can help. Remember righty tighty, lefty loosy.
Thanks for the all of the instructions. Unfortunately for me not one aspect was remotely as easy. And after it all went in I had water leaking from the bottom. Took it apart 3 times to check the seals etc and same result.
Sorry it didn't go smoothly... one thing that's easy to do is accidentally leave a part of the old seal in place, if there's a small rubber ring on your impeller shaft from the old seal and you put on the new one it may leak. Second thing that's possible is the housing gasket is worn out or even more likely pinched. Check around the perimeter of the housing, there's a very thin rubber gasket, make sure that hasn't fallen out partly or become compromised. Also try to see where the water is leaking from, under the pump there's a small hole called the "weep hole", if it's coming out that directly more than likely it's a problem with the seal. There's also a small chance you got the wrong seal, PS-201 is the most common for the super pump, all the HP motors use the same seal of this style pump.
@@BobsPoolService I just read your reply and it appears you're on to the issue. I actually took it apart again this morning and realized the gasket was smaller than the old one. I put the old one on and boom no leaks! Now my issue is priming. The seal on the front may have been put on backwards because I reversed it when I got the leak. I'm gonna see if that helps get better
suction later today in order to get a good prime. Thanks!
@@BobsPoolService still can't get it to prime. Anything I may be missing?
So to finalize for those that may have dealt with similar issues. The filter needed to be cleaned and pressure released. After that filling the basket constantly eventually led to a good prime.
How do I put my diffuser back in? Just clip it into the hole?
I would push it onto the seal plate (the part attached to the motor in my thumnbnail) and then carefully push the entire assembly into the pump housing. There's grooves and the diffuser should say "top" on it, you want top to be up. It's really not possible to put it in the wrong side up, it simply won't fit into the slots on the seal plate. Don't forge there's also a gasket on the front of the diffuser, you may need to replace it oftentimes they are in bad shape especially if you use tablets.
I followed and switched out my pump. It runs but after hooking everything back up I can get it to pull water in. What did I do wrong?
Make sure you put the diffuser and gasket in there, I've seen that forgotten many times and even did it myself once. Beyond that I'd try filling the strainer housing with water and with the lid off turn on the power briefly, if you see the water suck down then more than likely the pump is working ok but you have an air leak somewhere in front of the housing (or the lid, etc). If the water doesn't suck down definitely check the diffuser, impeller and other pump internals.
When I went to prime it before even powering it up, the bottom was leaking water like crazy. Ugh. Any ideas?
Could be a few things, most common would be a bad or incorrectly installed pump seal. If you get down low and the water is coming out the weep hole that's probably it. The other common leak point is the housing gasket, it's a very thin gasket that seals the motor plate assembly to the front housing, it can easily get pinched. If the bolts are tight check it's condition. Lastly there could be a crack in the housing, rare but I've seen it.
@@BobsPoolService yep
It was the pump seal. It had like little tits on the metal part the other part can slide into with the spring and it wasn’t quite lined up. Thanks!
Thank you for this video. My cousin needed their pool pump motor swapped out. This made it really easy
Glad it worked out!
What motor is this and what seal kit goes with it i have a salt water pool and my motor just went out.
The motor style is a 56J, you'll need to get the right horsepower though, it should be on the tag. If you can't read it then you can check the impeller, 2605C is 3/4HP, 2607C is 1hp and 2610C is 1.5hp, 2615 would be 2hp. The seal is a PS-201 or PS-201V (for salt water, the V stands for viton) I always put in the Viton seals when I change them out. You don't need to get a Hayward branded motor, in fact Hayward doesn't make the motors. AO smith, century, emerson or any other will work so long as it's a 56J frame threaded shaft.
Ok thank you what about if it says the flange is round or square does that matter any because my pump is the sp2607x10 hayward 1hp motor but it looks just like the video?
I'm doing the stupid Texas thing too.....leaving everything uncovered for the rain and sun to ruin it
They're meant to be outside, the cabinet is painted steel so it should last. The controls on the front though are plastic and the UV light from the sun can damage them so it's ideal to provide some shade for them but don't cover the heater.
Installed and it turned on but the next day it won’t turn on again. Could it be electrical ?
Certainly could be an electrical problem. Make sure you had the voltage set correctly, usually setting it to 220 with 120v current wont' ruin the motor but it'll run improperly, however feeding it 220 if you have it wired for 110 can destroy the motor quickly. I'd check to make sure the motor is getting current with a tester and also make sure the wires are secured well to the terminals.
They don't make 2 hp hayward pumps anymore (thanks to the D.O.E.)... what motor can I buy to replace one?
So the DOE didn't actually outlaw 2 hp pumps, however they set forth efficiency ratings and power consumption to where it does effectively rule out single speed 2hp pumps. With that said you can repair an existing pump pretty much forever, just can't purchase a new one now. If you have a super pump like the one in this video you have a few options, if the housing is good you can just purchase a 2 hp replacement motor from Century electric or any other manufacturer, the style is frame size 56J round flange, threaded shaft. It's a generic motor, we buy ours from a local place in East Brunswick called Quality Electric. Your other options would be to downsize to a 1.5hp motor or even 1hp and fit a correponding impeller. For 1.5hp you'd want a 2610C, for 1hp a 2607C, the rest of the parts are the same among different super pump models. Lastly you can purchase a 2 speed motor, that will fulfill the regulations and you'll still have 2hp if you need it. Do you have a large pool and a DE filter? It's rare that we see a need for 2hp on residential pools and in some cases it'll work less efficiently if you have a sand filter because it simply pushes the water through so fast you're losing filtration, DE on the other hand is fine.
do some motors that fit the super pump not have the diffuser?
I'm not quite sure what you're asking but let me clarify. So the "motor" portion of a pump never comes with a diffuser, impeller or any other parts other than the motor. In fact pool pump motors are not even made by the pump manufacturer and are often used for many different applications, for example my table saw has a similar motor to that of a pool pump. With this said, any in-ground pump needs a diffuser including a super pump, in the case of an above ground pump since it's always located below the surface of the water and only needs to push it back up, not draw it from a lower point the pump does not always have one. If you put a super pump back together and forget the diffuser it will not run right and will take an eternity to pick up prime if it does at all. Hope this helps.
Yes it does help and I appreciate your quick reply I am going to be installing a motor on my Hayward this week so thank you@@BobsPoolService
@@rrose002 Just take your time and pay close attention to things like the electrical connectors being securely under the screws or if you use crimps, buy good ones and avoid the amazon brands. A little silicone lube on the rubber bits also helps, I even put a small bit on the bolts in case they need to come out again, it's not recommended but after 30 plus years I never had one come out on it's own with the lube so I think it's an ok thing to do.
Thank you for the heads up I will use the silicone also@@BobsPoolService
Stuck impeller. It won't budge. Cant get it off. The motor was making loud noises and eventually smoke came from that area. I'm trying to disassemble but the impeller can't come off.
We use a pair of very large slip joint pliers (or a strap wrench) to grab the impeller if it's seized on like that. I've yet to have one that wouldn't come off but oftentimes the impeller does break in the process of removing it. Is the impeller just stuck or is the actual motor seized? A "stuck" impeller to the shaft wouldn't cause the motor not to rotate or smoke but a bad bearing causing a seized motor would. if the pump is over 10 years old and it's really stuck that bad you may want to opt to just change out the entire pump (or try using a pipe wrench or large slip joint pliers to persuade it to come off)
Thank you! I used a pipe wrench after submitting my question, and it worked!
What if the impeller doesn’t come off by hand?
Use a strap wrench or large slip joint pliers to get more leverage. It comes off counterclockwise like an ordinary screw. Just be careful not to damage it. You could probably insert 2 small screwdrivers into the flutes if you don't have a large enough pair of pliers if someone else holds the motor while you turn them. It's rare that we come across ones that don't come off by hand but everyone has a different grip... I'm always the guy asked to loosen a jar lid so probably a bad reference.
Those ants will haunt my dreams.
OH, they were bad!! Of all the things, I'll bungee jump, hike into the wilderness but ants get my respect. I once got into some fire ants and that's no joke.
So doesn't matter which "hot wires" go to which terminal? Mine are labeled 1 and 2 on the motor.
Well the hot wires have to be on the proper terminals but it doesn't matter which hot wire goes on which "line" terminal, they're not polarized and in the case of 220 nothing is ever polarized. Just make SURE you know if you have 110 or 220 coming into the pump, if you get that wrong you can ruin a new motor. I've seen electricians believe it or not ruin a brand new motor that way!
But to expand on this, I've never personally seen a motor that fits a super pump to have L1 or L2 marked for the neutral or hot in the case of a 110v instllation, obviously with 220 there's no difference, on any device which hot goes to which terminal... 3 phase is a whole other scenario. I'd always check the wiring diagram on any electrical device and if one of the load terminals is marked for hot or neutral DO follow that but none of the motors we've used are marked as such and I've never had any problems, only an occasional defective motor perhaps one every 2 or 3 years and we install hundreds of motors each year.
When you do videos to show thousands of people you should do everything right.
We try, this was an actual service call, i had my phone and figured it was worth sharing. It's possible we omitted something in the video.
Not a bad video…However, the only BIG SLIP UP, was touching the white ceramic face when replacing the pump seal!!! That is a big NO NO! Fingerprints will cause it to break down prematurely…
You are 100% correct, however with that said in all my years I've never seen the carbon/ceramic facing fail and leak, it's always the rubber part that gets eaten up and especially with low pH. But thanks for the comment, indeed one should wear gloves when handing the seal faces.
That sound is a bad capacitor!!!