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Sometimes it is but what happens when you change the starting capacitor then the bearings fail or the switch within the year? Now the customer has spent twice on it. Motors don't last like they used to and oftentimes changing out the starting capacitor might not fix the problem. If you're a DIYer and want to try that first have at it, or even remove the capacitor and test it with a fluke meter (just check the microfarads on the one you took out). With higher end sealed motors or commercial pumps we do stock and change many start capacitors but in this case the customer was happy replacing the motor which should last 5-7 years.

Thanks for the kind words, and yeah, sometimes the impeller can be stuck and we use a strap wrench to grab it. Thanks for watching.

Glad it helped, unfortunately motors don't last like they used to, when i started the business 35 years ago we'd see motors that were in place for 20 years, still good... fast forward to today and the average life seems to be 5-7 years for a pool motor. Low voltage caused from people running AC's in the heat is part of what kills them but again they don't make them like they used to.

Most motors are dual voltage and you change a switch or jumper inside to match your electrical source of 120 or 240v. Be sure it's correct or you can ruin the new motor. Now as for your situation where it's working when hooked up incorrectly, now I never saw that! Make sure each leg is coming from a different side of your electrical panel , potentially both legs could measure 120v but if they're in phase with one another and coming from the same hot bus bar you'd have the exact situation you just outlined. You can test with a VOM meter by placing a lead on both hot legs simultaneously, it should measure 240v if you do it that way.

@@BobsPoolService thanks. I appreciate you answering. I bought a new motor and swapped it out today. It’s Running fine, so it was in fact that motor. . It’s just the most curious thing. I’ve changed the motor on both of my Condensing Units a few times over the almost 20 years I’ve lived here. Usually can ohm out all 3 leads and tell the windings are shorted or bad. In this case everything tested fine, including electrical input, the capacitor was perfect, but the motor was dead, nothing. As a goof, I moved the jumper to the 120, and it ran from my outdoor outlet. For like 10 minutes until I unplugged it. Oh well, maybe I’ll save it and replace the motor in the pool vacuum I frankensteined together if the existing 1.5hp ever dies. Thanks again.

@@TheFilmmaker5 We give that option but this client chose the more affordable route of doing just the motor.

Same issue

@@mvpileggi1127 I think because I have the automation panel, the buttons are override by the panel ... Do you have a panel?

The video was for a standalone unit, if you have an automation panel the buttons do nothing. on the unit and all control is via the intellitouch panel.

@@pelu7104 yep that was it!

Weirdly enough, I have to turn it down on the panel AND on the intellichlor itself. It seems whatever % the panel is set to is the minimum the intellichlor can be set to via the LESS and MORE

@@tuttle810 I'm assuming you mean which motor to order... The proper motor style for a Hayward super pump is a frame style 56J, you do want to look at the tag and match the horsepower however. You also want the motor to have a threaded shaft. You don't need to buy one from Hayward you can get one from Century, AO Smith, Emerson or US motors. In fact Hayward doesn't actually make the motors for their super pumps they just source them from these companies. If you can't read the horsepower on the label you can select by looking at the impeller... 2605 is 3/4hp, 2607 is 1hp and 2610 is 1 1/2hp

@@BobsPoolService thank you very much.

Any C-face threaded shaft motor (56J) for outdoor use should work with the same HP rating. We don't sell motors online or do affiliate links the video was just made to help handy people be able to DIY a replacment.

@@Robley35 I think mine would have leaked if I had tried that but anything is possible. Why not try it nothing to lose

Well water can be anything, some is clean and free of metals but often you can have copper or iron in there. Best to get it tested and if you can filter it before using it to fill a pool or spa.

Make sure the cell is installed in the proper direction, if it's incorrect the flow switch won't work and it'll show red.

yeah, after covid prices went pretty nuts. My first was an intext, now I have a bestway. The intex seemed a lot more substantial but unfortunately none of these inflatable tubs unless you go to really pricey ones like softub have parts to fix them. My intex made it about 4 years at one point I had disabled some of the sensors to keep it going, not exactly recommended but it gave me another year since I couldn't buy the parts to change them out.

Yes, seen people make that mistake so many times!

Glad it worked out, not a huge job but of course there's always a few little things one needs to know like the 7/16" wrench fished under the switch. I've gotten some hate from other pool companies for showing homeowners how to do things on their pools... I feel when someone needs us they'll reach out and appreciate sharing some knowledge. Thanks for commenting.

We don't make pool equipment, we just install it. That's unfortunate about your experience. I have seen across the board lowered quality on everything, so far we've been more fortunate with Pentair than other brands but as a pool professional we have different ways of reaching out to these companies so it's likely a different experience. One thing I will note that manufacturers are doing is supporting products differently depending on if it's an e-commerce purchase or if it's through a brick and mortar business... honestly I believe the product is likely the same but the warranty and support you'll get can be VASTLY different, from a full 3 years to virtually no warranty. I've been doing this for 40 plus years now and back in the day as a contractor we could purchase our products much cheaper therefore matching online prices... fast forward to now and sometimes I see products we sell cheaper on amazon and other online outlets so to stay in business we simply have to make it up somewhere. I contacted the companies and they told me the difference is the warranty so tell your customers if they buy it online they only get 6 months of support versus 1-3 years depending on the product. I liked the old way better honestly, give professionals a way to make 20% on the product and give equal support to all purchases provided it is genuine.

Yes, I hate videos with long intros and lots of "fluff" so anything I do tried to give you the information you need clearly and quickly. Thanks for commenting.

Make sure the time clock is turning, also the timer needs constant power, if there's a switch before it the time won't move on. If the timer is more than 7 years old very good chance the gears on the time clock are worn, it's a replaceable part inside the timer box.

Thank you, I checked and the little gear in the back is turning constantly. Pool timer is only 2-3 years old.

@@tacforcegaming3220 Well, if it's getting power like that only thing I can imagine is the timer mech went bad, either a gear or something stuck. I wouldn't know how to repair it but they are replace-able, they snap into the enclosure. I have had a few go bad, rare but it does happen.

@@BobsPoolService thank you!!

Hah, yeah, it's funny because at photography gigs people are amazed when I tell them it isn't what I do to make a living and tell them I own a swimming pool business. Making money from photography, especially if you want to sell fine art is a tough road, similar to music. I'm happy to make a fair living fixing pools which allow me to buy nice camera gear and enjoy it, not be forced to make a living with it. Thanks for watching and commenting, the tool cabinet really worked out for me, I like seeing all my stuff in one place and knowing if something is missing.

Essentially yes, however after a DE filter is backwashed you need to re-add the DE that was removed in the backwashing process. You still vacuum with a DE filter in the "filter" position.

Hrm, some of them with the end caps are bigger, usually 9/16 but 7/16 is actually slightly larger than 11mm, it's 11.1125 so maybe your 7/16 was damaged or perhaps it just took the right touch to grab the flat spot and you got lucky with the 11 mm? But thanks for commenting and I'm glad the video helped! Just made another one today on changing the seal only, hoping to find some time to edit and upload. Again thanks for watching.

Thanks and glad it helped!

Use a strap wrench or large slip joint pliers to get more leverage. It comes off counterclockwise like an ordinary screw. Just be careful not to damage it. You could probably insert 2 small screwdrivers into the flutes if you don't have a large enough pair of pliers if someone else holds the motor while you turn them. It's rare that we come across ones that don't come off by hand but everyone has a different grip... I'm always the guy asked to loosen a jar lid so probably a bad reference.

Glad it worked out, that's what pause is for on youtube :) We change over 100 motors a pool season on average now, nothing lasts like it used to.

Cleaning out the burner tray and vacuuming out the top of the heater should fix the overheating but you'll need to buy a new rollout sensor (fusible link), there is no "reset", once it's burned like a fuse it needs to be replaced.

Maybe the 60% LED is burned out? Seems odd it'd skip that, is it illuminated when you put it to 80% or is the 60% LED still off? As an interim solution you could set it to 40% (or 80%) and vary the pump run time to get the same amount of sanitizer production.

Generally yes but I would test the water with salt strips or better yet a meter. Most pool stores have the gear to test your water there if you take in a sample. By doing this you know how much to add and if the sensor is reading incorrectly you won't oversalt your pool.

It can be the starting capacitor but not in this case.

Which light is blinking green? If it's the top one that just means your salt level is high, doesn't mean the cell is bad.

@@BobsPoolService It is the STATUS of the CELL that is blinking which says INSPECT - even though my salt level is GOOD (green) and my test strips all say the levels are good.. But it always says CHLORINE is LOW - but I was told that I should IGNORE that on the test strip and only go by my PENTAIR machine when it says LOW SALT then I add SALT. I also have the Sanitizer on 40 percent.. This sucks because I tried to reset the system by unplugging and it stayed solid GREEN for like a few minutes then went right back to blinking GREEN again for the STATUS of the CELL.

@@lauratesta316 If the inspect cell light is blinking green then there's a problem. Have you opened up the unions and inspected the cell? Sometimes debris gets lodged between the plates and causes this or you could have buildup on the plates themselves. The cell should be acid cleaned every 6 months to remove any scale that may have formed on the electrode. if none of this helps I'd contact Pentair if the cell is under a year old it should be under warranty.

If you have 220v both power leads are the same, just connect them to L1 and L2.

Thanks for the kind words, after I watched the video I did realize I should have mentioned changing out the diffuser gasket, in this case it was ok but oftentimes why not change it since you're in there. Great observation! We really didn't set out to make a video, this was an actual service call and we had a little extra time that day so I pulled out my phone and had my helper who has zero experience fixing pool pumps do the work so I would be able to narrate and instruct him. As for your pump plugs not staying in, tell us about it... it's really unfortunate Hayward hasn't addressed this, used to never be an issue but over the past few years nearly every pump we winterize has this problem and telling someone they need a new housing because of something as trivial as a drain plug seems ridiculous. Hayward filters also have this issue with the drains where even a new cap can leak. As for a fix, you can do what we do and get a deeper plug that's 1/4 NPT and not use the one with the washer. If you're lucky it'll go in a bit deeper and grab some better threads, just be careful not to put on too much teflon or it can crack the housing (the front, not usually the side one) Another way is to get a 1/4" stainless steel nipple and a draincock (valve), this way you won't have to keep taking it out every winter, you could even glue it in with plumbers goop if you wanted, in fact on my own pump I just glued a plug in (don't use teflon if you do that) and since I only have to remove the water once in the winter it's not a big deal. I just vacuum it out or use a sham-wow to soak it up. For the rear plenum you can loosen the bolts or what I do is just pour in half a gallon of non toxic antifreeze in the front portion and let it mix with the water in the back. Hope this helps, there's a lot of pool stuff that's just poorly designed, don't even get me going about Hayward Chlorinators and that lid o-ring design :)

@@BobsPoolService Bob - thanks again for taking the time to write such a great reply. Do you do service calls to somerset county? LOL. Yeah - for my Hayward sand filter, I had a similar issue last 3 years where the plastic drain spout chipped and now the cap will still leak no matter how tight. If others have this issue, what I've done is used silicone earplugs to shove in the filter holes when I open and then the cap seals with no leak. At closing, just remove the silicone - easy. I wonder if that would work for the drain plug? Thanks for the other few tips on the drain plugs. And, I have the Chlorinator too. What a pain although I don't use it much as I pretty much switched to liquid 10+ years ago that I manually dose once a day so rarely fussing with it.

@@MarcL-sj7qi Hey Mark, we do have some clients in Somerset, it's not our main area but if you need something just mention to my biz partner Walter who answers the phone that you spoke to me on youtube. As far as the chips on the filter stem drain it's oftentimes animals that chew on it, maybe they're looking for water or maybe they just like to chew? Squirrels seem to do this with fence latches and pump handles too. Good move on switching to liquid chlorine, we see more pools damaged by tablets than anything else. if you ever do use them really test the water often and adjust the pH, it'll always be low as you use tablets because they're half acid. You maintain your pool the same way as I do my hot tub with just liquid chlorine (bleach). If you can get some old style drain plugs without the flange and washer they're a little longer and might help you seal your pump or as you said silicone... you can always just put non toxic antifreeze in there over the winter as well if you seal it off. I saw some stainless steel plugs on amazon I'm tempted to order and try out, once upon a time pumps came with brass or bronze plugs that lasted 30 years. It's really sad what's happened to the quality of pool equipment across the board for the most part. We used to change out filters that were 20 years old, then it went to 10, then 5 and now we see cycles of 3-4 years for this stuff. Pump motors went from using copper windings to using aluminum in some cases and the bearings are the big culprit, they used to use quality usa made ones but now who knows what's in there. I have pumps from the early 80's we use to pump out pools and they're still as quiet as when I bought them.

@@BobsPoolService Thanks again! Will do on the service. I know what you mean on the quality. My original superpump motor from 2006 lasted 10+ years. These Century replacements now go 2-4 years. Really is terrible. It was ages since I used the chlorinator. With the pump out of action, I ran to home depot to get some pucks. $50 for 5lbs - geez these things have gotten to be a lot. I used them to float in the pool to keep up some levels of constant chlorine, and when the pump was back working after watching your training vid, I transferred them to the chlorinator, which hadn't been used in years. I switched to liquid (BBB method) over 15 years ago after having way too much CYA in the pool which caused major issues with chlorine not being effective. Got myself a good test kit and now test the chlorine each night and just add liquid once a day. For those near an Ocean State Job Lot, they carry 12.5% liquid at a great price. I'll have to look for those stainless plugs - maybe worth a shot!

@@MarcL-sj7qi BBB is the best, I can tell you know your pool stuff well! If you want a better chlorinator check out the Pentair 320, it used to be called the Rainbow but was bought out. I still prefer to avoid tablets but sometimes if you're away for a week it's nice to have. Unlike the Hayward the 320 is also full flow and the tablets aren't stewing in water when you turn off the system.

You probably need to change the sensor, it's connected to the flow sensor and they sell a kit with wire connectors. It should not be red unless you're under 2700ppm. Is your water cold? if it is that could also cause this. There's a temp sensor built into the flow switch that may have gone bad.

@@BobsPoolService thanks for the advice. Probably need to change the sensor since the water isn’t cold, all other lights are green as expected and my water tested at salt levels of 3400ppm

The part you're talking about is known as the heat exchanger and it can definitely be taken out, cleaned, reamed, etc. Sometimes we see calcium buildup and have to clean out the tubes, there's a tool for that you can hook to a drill. As for the outside of the tubes with the fins take that out and watch with water, do not brush it dry because it can ignite!

If pushing the less button doesn't reduce the setting then the switch has probably gone bad, really try pushing it firmly, even move your finger around as you do. If this doesn't work then you'll need to replace the cell, the only part on the cell that can be changed out is the flow sensor, everything else is sealed and potted in a compound.

Yeah, it's not obvious how to hold the shaft unless someone shows you. Glad it helped.

@@BobsPoolService That was incredibly helpful. I searched videos for just that reason and after watching yours I learned a couple helpful tips on removing the ceramic seal/bushings. So helpful! The new motor is running great and so quiet. Thank you again.

So adding bleach will not increase your CYA (cyanuric acid). It's known as an unstabilized chlorine. Trichlor tablets increase your CYA and yes, a high level of CYA can be problematic but not in the way you described. If your CYA is too high your chlorine will still read just as it always has HOWEVER the high CYA will make the chlorine ineffective unless the level is very high (not good). If you're only adding bleach to your tub as I do I can't figure out why your CYA would be high like that. CYA has one job and that is to protect your chlorine from UV degradation, but unless your spa is out uncovered in sunlight for many hours a day CYA isn't something you need at all in your spa water. I would make sure your test strips are working correctly and that the bleach your adding is pure bleach with nothing else added. I've never in all my years seen bleach with cyanuric acid. I have seen stabilizer sold in liquid form, in fact I just put 2 gallons of that in a swimming pool today to bring up the CYA. I'm guessing somehow you got a bottle of that and not bleach (sodium hypochlorite is the active ingredient) and have been putting that into your tub instead. Hope this helps!

If other lights are on I'd say it's gone bad or if it's in warranty you should file a claim. If NONE of the lights are illuminated check the connector, at the power center, also check the fuse inside the power center which is a very common thing we replace.

@@BobsPoolService Its crazy this one is new and the one I replaced does the same thing I can’t find a good pool guy in my area and Pentair is worth less Thanks

Definitely do NOT vacuum into an uncharged DE filter in fact you shouldn't even run your system without DE in there for any period of time. What can happen if you run water through your DE filter without DE is the dirt gets impregnated into the filter grid rather than being caught by the DE. At best you take int apart and clean it, maybe do an acid washing and you're back up but at worst you could ruin the grids and need a new filter by running it without DE. Sort of like driving your car without oil, really not good. I am planning on making and uploading more videos covering DE filters soon as we have a moment to catch a breath with our business :)

When the lights are all flashing like that it's doing a self check, sort of a boot up phase. Once it's on though for 10 minutes or more that should settle in and stop, if not something could be wrong.