It was one of my first - I printed most of my Voron ABS parts on my Ender 5. Looking back I could have noted some more items and done better - but thats growth. If you have any questions please leave comments - I'm doing a live stream today that is an open forum for discussion. I'm hoping to do them monthly. If you're interested and around for 1PM EST (2/25/2023) - do join in! Thanks for the comment!
How did the esun abs+ parts held so far on your voron build? .. I am asking as recently on voron site it's not recomended any more.. 😢 too bad I finished my trident a month ago all using esun abs+ bought a year ago .. wonder if I should reprint high stress parts again ..?
eSun worked just fine. Hatchbox turned out to be, not so great. On the Hatchbox the layer adhesion was fine, however, the parts started breaking across the parts. It was a slow process of swapping out parts as they broke until I finally just replaced them all. I can't speak for the Voron Team, but I would suspect that inconsistency in batches was the biggest issue. That and lower-than-normal temperatures deforming (creep) the material. A good rule/test is to print a 5-10mm "flattened" cube with a m5 hole in it. Once printeedand cooled screw an m5 bolt and nut in at room temperature. Ensure the nut is tight,. Place the part on a heated bed at roughly 50-60 degrees for 10 minutes. Remove the heated part and see how much more you can easily tighten the nut. You should expect some wiggle room, maybe a rotation at most. Just my experience, YMMV.
I'll definitely try this test .. also I mostly printed using a 1.5 year old roll of esun.. only cw2 and cosmetic parts where printed using the new batch of esun .. colour difference between the 2 black rolls I have is slightly visible and prints are more flexible with the new roll .. I might just print the cw2 just in case :) ..thanks a lot for the reply
I always suggest you have at least (1) set of replacement parts for all mech/stressed parts. Good to have them for back-up. I have so many spare parts now... I keep them all in individual ziploc bags for each printer. Much more important if you don't have a good way to print replacement parts, but good either way.
Hey just found this video and had to laugh. I also have an Ender 5 with micro swiss hotend and at the moment im trying to print abs parts for my voron 2.4! :D Can you share your cura config file? I still get horrendous warping. I followed all your mentioned steps. Greetings from Germany
For good measure here is my start code as well: G28 ;Home G92 E0 ;Reset Extruder G1 Z2.0 F3000 ;Move Z Axis up G1 X10.1 Y20 Z0.28 F5000.0 ;Move to start position G1 X10.1 Y200.0 Z0.28 F1500.0 E15 ;Draw the first line G1 X10.4 Y200.0 Z0.28 F5000.0 ;Move to side a little G1 X10.4 Y20 Z0.28 F1500.0 E30 ;Draw the second line G92 E0 ;Reset Extruder G1 Z2.0 F3000 ;Move Z Axis up And End Code:
G91 ;Relative positioning G1 E-2 F2700 ;Retract a bit G1 E-2 Z0.2 F2400 ;Retract and raise Z G1 X5 Y5 F3000 ;Wipe out G1 Z10 ;Raise Z more G90 ;Absolute positioning
@@BuildItBasement Hi. I did not expect you to care so much about someone from a youtube comment. Pretty nice of you. Thanks! :) Well long story short: Shortly after i tried your config my Creality Silent Board blew up so i had to replace it. I went for the BTT SKR Mini v2. But i had to recalibrate my whole printer which took some days. But at the moment im able to print ABS+ without brim and without any warping which is pretty cool i think! Last problem i have is some kind of overextrusion/artifacts on my top layer surface but im pretty sure i will solve that problem also. Im currently tinkering with the flow and the ironing settings. My voron kit should arrive mid of may so i have around 2 weeks left until there need to be perfect ABS+ prints. :P
I have, but I printed with the stock hot end as well. I currently have a microswiss in my ender. I did that so I could do a direct feed and for polycarbonate.
That video was from a long time ago, but I would guess that I Started with the generic PLA profile. The title of a profile doesn't really mean much, except to the user. I have since gotten much better at properly naming my profiles. All of my first Voron parts came off of my ender 5.
Let me know what you need - This is a really old video - one of my first. Happy to help out and do a re-do! Let me know if you found what you need or is you need any help! Thanks for the feedback.
recording looking up makes you appear timid and questionable. shoot from slightly under your chin... looking down makes you appear more trusting and makes you appear more informative.
You're in the way back machine of my videos. Time moves swiftly! I see your point, you are the 2nd person to ever comment on the angle - It's mostly due to a lack of space. I'll continue to improve my camera shots and video production, I appreciate your comment in helping me do so!
Great video!
It was one of my first - I printed most of my Voron ABS parts on my Ender 5. Looking back I could have noted some more items and done better - but thats growth. If you have any questions please leave comments - I'm doing a live stream today that is an open forum for discussion. I'm hoping to do them monthly. If you're interested and around for 1PM EST (2/25/2023) - do join in! Thanks for the comment!
How did the esun abs+ parts held so far on your voron build? .. I am asking as recently on voron site it's not recomended any more.. 😢 too bad I finished my trident a month ago all using esun abs+ bought a year ago .. wonder if I should reprint high stress parts again ..?
eSun worked just fine. Hatchbox turned out to be, not so great. On the Hatchbox the layer adhesion was fine, however, the parts started breaking across the parts. It was a slow process of swapping out parts as they broke until I finally just replaced them all. I can't speak for the Voron Team, but I would suspect that inconsistency in batches was the biggest issue. That and lower-than-normal temperatures deforming (creep) the material. A good rule/test is to print a 5-10mm "flattened" cube with a m5 hole in it. Once printeedand cooled screw an m5 bolt and nut in at room temperature. Ensure the nut is tight,. Place the part on a heated bed at roughly 50-60 degrees for 10 minutes. Remove the heated part and see how much more you can easily tighten the nut. You should expect some wiggle room, maybe a rotation at most. Just my experience, YMMV.
I'll definitely try this test .. also I mostly printed using a 1.5 year old roll of esun.. only cw2 and cosmetic parts where printed using the new batch of esun .. colour difference between the 2 black rolls I have is slightly visible and prints are more flexible with the new roll .. I might just print the cw2 just in case :) ..thanks a lot for the reply
I always suggest you have at least (1) set of replacement parts for all mech/stressed parts. Good to have them for back-up. I have so many spare parts now... I keep them all in individual ziploc bags for each printer. Much more important if you don't have a good way to print replacement parts, but good either way.
Hey just found this video and had to laugh. I also have an Ender 5 with micro swiss hotend and at the moment im trying to print abs parts for my voron 2.4! :D
Can you share your cura config file? I still get horrendous warping. I followed all your mentioned steps.
Greetings from Germany
Iro - I'm always impressed how well our German friends speak and write (American) English. I can send you my profile via email, if you like. I will paste what I can here. my email address is listed on my channel page. Here are my Cura (VORON) settings for my Ender 5:
version = 4
name = VORON PARTS ABS FAST MED INFILL #2
definition = creality_base
[metadata]
type = quality_changes
quality_type = standard
setting_version = 16
[values]
adhesion_type = brim
jerk_enabled = False
material_bed_temperature = 110
material_bed_temperature_layer_0 = 110
speed_slowdown_layers = 2
[metadata]
type = quality_changes
quality_type = standard
intent_category = default
position = 0
setting_version = 16
[values]
bottom_layers = 5
brim_width = 10
cool_fan_enabled = False
cool_fan_full_layer = 8
cool_fan_speed = 0
cool_min_layer_time = 3
cool_min_layer_time_fan_speed_max = 0
fill_perimeter_gaps = nowhere
infill_multiplier = 2
infill_sparse_density = 40
material_final_print_temperature = 230
material_flow_layer_0 = 105
material_initial_print_temperature = 230
material_print_temperature = 230
retraction_amount = 0.75
retraction_extrusion_window = 1
retraction_speed = 25
roofing_layer_count = 1
skirt_brim_material_flow = 110
skirt_brim_speed = 40
skirt_line_count = 5
speed_layer_0 = 80
speed_print = 100
speed_roofing = 80
speed_topbottom = 80
speed_travel = 200
speed_travel_layer_0 = 100
speed_wall_0 = 100
speed_wall_x = 120
top_bottom_pattern_0 = lines
top_layers = 5
wall_line_count = 4
For good measure here is my start code as well:
G28 ;Home
G92 E0 ;Reset Extruder
G1 Z2.0 F3000 ;Move Z Axis up
G1 X10.1 Y20 Z0.28 F5000.0 ;Move to start position
G1 X10.1 Y200.0 Z0.28 F1500.0 E15 ;Draw the first line
G1 X10.4 Y200.0 Z0.28 F5000.0 ;Move to side a little
G1 X10.4 Y20 Z0.28 F1500.0 E30 ;Draw the second line
G92 E0 ;Reset Extruder
G1 Z2.0 F3000 ;Move Z Axis up
And End Code:
G91 ;Relative positioning
G1 E-2 F2700 ;Retract a bit
G1 E-2 Z0.2 F2400 ;Retract and raise Z
G1 X5 Y5 F3000 ;Wipe out
G1 Z10 ;Raise Z more
G90 ;Absolute positioning
Any updates? Let me know if your have questions or are hitting a wall.
@@BuildItBasement Hi. I did not expect you to care so much about someone from a youtube comment. Pretty nice of you. Thanks! :)
Well long story short: Shortly after i tried your config my Creality Silent Board blew up so i had to replace it. I went for the BTT SKR Mini v2. But i had to recalibrate my whole printer which took some days. But at the moment im able to print ABS+ without brim and without any warping which is pretty cool i think! Last problem i have is some kind of overextrusion/artifacts on my top layer surface but im pretty sure i will solve that problem also. Im currently tinkering with the flow and the ironing settings.
My voron kit should arrive mid of may so i have around 2 weeks left until there need to be perfect ABS+ prints. :P
Did you change the hotend out?
I have, but I printed with the stock hot end as well. I currently have a microswiss in my ender. I did that so I could do a direct feed and for polycarbonate.
But I noticed your Cura profile is set to Generic PLA?
That video was from a long time ago, but I would guess that I Started with the generic PLA profile.
The title of a profile doesn't really mean much, except to the user. I have since gotten much better at properly naming my profiles. All of my first Voron parts came off of my ender 5.
This is not a tutorial for beginners.
Let me know what you need - This is a really old video - one of my first. Happy to help out and do a re-do! Let me know if you found what you need or is you need any help! Thanks for the feedback.
recording looking up makes you appear timid and questionable. shoot from slightly under your chin... looking down makes you appear more trusting and makes you appear more informative.
You're in the way back machine of my videos. Time moves swiftly! I see your point, you are the 2nd person to ever comment on the angle - It's mostly due to a lack of space. I'll continue to improve my camera shots and video production, I appreciate your comment in helping me do so!