Bulletproof Polycarbonate Filament! Tips on printing PC with an Ender! ABS too!
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- čas přidán 12. 09. 2024
- I share my tips on how to print with polycarbonate PC filament and ABS plastic on the Ender series printers. Expand your plastic palette! I briefly go over beds and slicer settings. Keep in mind that the Cura settings should be a guide for you to build from! Ender 3 and Ender 5 users - I hope this helps!
I destruct three prints made of PLA+ ABS Max and PC. Snap Cut and Crush!
Let me know if you have additional questions or if there is anything I can do to help! THANKS!!
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Testing the waters for a family (Son and I) oriented channel. Lots of smaller projects and some bigger ones. I grew up with Mr. Wizard - Trying to fill a gap.
PC is the TRUTH. Deff my fav Material so far. Not that hard to print, and you get the best of the best.
Agreed - Assuming you have an all metal hotend and you can get your bed up around/over 100 degrees, its a great material!
Cool demo. Have you tried PEI spring steel sheet? Also may be interesting to compare with carbon fiber PC, since not long ago Josef Prusa was showing big CFPC parts printed on stock MK3 without any enclosure and it seems to have very reduced warping because of the CF. The issue may be with how abrasive it is.
The Voron I am printing will have a PEI coated steel bed. I should have mentioned it as another alternative. There is just so many things to talk about and options out there. I focused on what "I" was doing. This video was a follow-up to questions from people on printing PC in general. I would be interested in trying the carbon fiber polycarbonate parts, sounds very durable. At first thought I have difficulty in believing the CF would stop much of the warping, maybe its a heat transfer thing? The fibers tend to be so small in those filaments that they really seem to be mostly for show (spec lists). I'm truly a novice at best - so I hope my perspective is to help others at a similar level of knowledge. Overall, I have to say that the main point to the video is to at least try something other than PLA! PLA prints easy, but once you have other materials dialed in they often can print quicker and with much better mechanical properties. Thank you for watching and the feed back. Let me know if you ever have questions or ideas for additional videos!
Words of advice from someone who prints a lot of PC. KEEP IT DRY!
i just got some PC and started printing on it and kept having layer seperation, i tried everything and now i'm onto dehydrating it and trying the print again! hopefully that fixes it!
another problem i'm having tho is the print is warping off the board away from the brim like the brim isn't even connected to it, got any ideas on why that is?
My printer is also an Ender 5 (+ in my case). Can you tell me the steps you used to upgrade the Ender 5 firmware to get the printer to 295°C? The OEM says max 275°. I'm told I need to update settings using Visual Basic. Is this something you did and can share (code)? Can you also share your Cura settings for the Polycarbonite?
Hi. You are correct on the VB modifications, however if you're considering going in to code I would strongly consider upgrading from the creality Marlin to Klipper. There are many videos showing how to do this. The first step is verifying the board you have and it's capabilities. Working with Marlin is like starting from scratch every time you make a modification. In Klipper, the code is live. You make changes in the Klipper console and after a quick restart, they are live. I can help further if you get stuck. As for Cura, send me an email (link and address are on my channel page) and I will send you settings.
Hey thanks for the video. Im printing a 4" x1/4" shaft and need it not to bend under force. I have a ender 3 pro. Can I print the shafts in polycarbonate and just tweak the settings for results? What are your thoughts?
You will need three things to help you. (1) You will need to update your firmware to allow for increased hotend temps. (2) You will need an all metal hotend like this one: amzn.to/3HhLnme or better yet this one: amzn.to/3JncKOH (3) You will need an exclosure for the printer a simple cardboard box can work, however I was be careful since cardboard is a fire hazard. I have this one: amzn.to/3wFBjyO . You will need to do some testing and you may need to buy a piece of plexiglass at a hardware store about the same size as your bed. Rough up the surface with 100-150 grit sandpaper and clean it with ISO. Good luck!
cant your share cura profile your using for printing abs voron parts?
I can, my printer is and Ender 5. So they may not apply. Anything specific you need?
How are you getting your bed temp to 123 C?
Physically or software wise? Physically the printer will do it fine with a basic enclosure. The firmware will either need to be modified using Visual Studio or (my preference) installing Klipper.
@Build It Basement im just going by the manufacture's specification of a 110 C max bed temperature
How did you get to 290?? I tried firmware update and slicer settings but no luck. I have a Neptune 2s.
It's the printer failing to get to 290 or does the software reject the temp?
@@BuildItBasement I believe its the firmware rejecting. It has the max temp at 275 but it won't go past 260
@@WeTheWaveTV The Neptune would need to have the firmware modified, I would suggest flashing it with Klipper (found this read for you) www.reddit.com/r/elegooneptune2/comments/pg0th0/klipper_firmware_now_supports_the_neptune_2_out/ Beyond that I would try to make an enclosure for the printer when printing PC or even ABS. A simple large HomeDepot box with one side cutin to doors that can be closed or opened should work. I know I'm jumping ahead - Once you install Klipper (suggested) you can modify the maximum temp of your hotend to 300. I would only do this if your hotend is all metal (bowden tube doesn't rest against the heat block). . I believe your printer uses a Robin Nano V1.2 board. I have never used the Neptune 2s specifically - but if you're into it you could have some fun modding it up! In short - that 260 limit is a software limit. It'll get higher under the right conditions.
@@BuildItBasement Thanks!!! I'm gonna check it out (Klipper). I currently have my printer set up in a coat closet and the filament in a heated dry box that actually heats the entire section I have blocked off in there so I believe I have the right environment. I also upgraded the hot end to a Creality Spider A M that has served well with carbon fiber nylon at 260. So hopefully this will get me to where I need to be. Thanks again. I will keep you posted.
@@WeTheWaveTV always willing to help. I can share stove Klipper tips when the time is right
"gonna be a quick one"----videos 20 minutes long 😂
That is quick! Besides PC is hard to break! lol - Thanks for watching!
@@BuildItBasement didn't mean it in a bad way just a funny way lol
@@appalachianforge7537 no harm... I didn't take it badly
First couple min you got me to subscribe 🫡
Older video - So much more to expand on! Maybe at some point. PC is great to work with. Printing on a piece of PC really helps when you don't have the ability to get past 100 degrees! I have made some neat things out of PC - At some point, I would like to make a drone frame out of PC and a VERY thin wrapper out of a flexible (impact-resistant) filament. Not enough time in a day! Hey, thanks for subbing! Leave as many comments or questions as you like and I'll reply as best I can!